Samsung plasma calibration with Disney WOW - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 3 Old 09-15-2013, 01:29 AM - Thread Starter
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I have a UK Samsung PS51D6900 plasma and received a copy of the Disney WOW calibration disc yesterday.

I am a complete novice and have never used one of these discs before but I am running into a few problems. Basically I can't get the contrast and brightness right. I have to have contrast and brightness at 100 to get anywhere near ideal white. By setting gamma to -3 I can get both of these values down to the late 80s but that doesn't seem right to me! Whatever I do I cannot get ideal white and ideal black together..I have to make a compromise with them both.

What am I doing wrong? Any tips?

If it helps I have all additional processing turned off and cell light is at 15.

I can set ideal black with no problems but that puts the whites so far out and I cannot figure out how to correct it.

Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 3 Old 09-15-2013, 02:03 PM
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Cell Light is a useless and stupid control that should not exist. Set it to the maximum setting and never use it again.

You are not "calibrating" with a disc. All you are doing is finding the best settings but calibration is considerably more in-depth than that and uses controls you can't use without having a meter and software and calibration knowledge.

Next, NO disc, NONE of them... exactly ZERO of them can help you find the best Contrast setting. In fact, the ONLY things you can set with a disc are Black Level (Brightness control) and the best setting for the Sharpness control (which is the setting that does not affect the image at all). All the Contrast pattern can do is tell you the HIGHEST Contrast setting you might ever want to use.

These days, setting the Brightness control to get the right Black Level is something you should be able to do one time and it will always be right after that if you are not changing modes or activating automatic features that should be off. Anything that says "dynamic" or "automatic" in the name should be turned off and left off always.

You should be using Movie mode for accurate images.

The right Contrast setting is the one that causes no eyestrain under your current viewing conditions. That might be 30 fL in a completely dark room (but you would never know how many fL you were producing without a meter and software to measure it), but it might be 35 fL if you are using a color balanced backlight, and it might be 40 fL: if you have some room lights turned on. No disc can help you find those Contrast settings. All the disc can do is tell you how high you can set Contrast without losing detail in steps above 235/100%. But some TVs never lose steps above 235/100% no matter how high you set Contrast. In those cases, all that matters is that you don't have Contrast so high that you experience eyestrain (takes a couple of hours of continuous viewing to determine that). Some displays will show steps above 235/100% when Contrast is below, say 85, but will lose steps when you set Contrast higher. That doesn't mean 85 is the right Contrast setting. It just means you may never want to use a setting higher than 85 if you want to preserve the visibility of white steps above 235/100%. A meter and software may tell you that you get 30 fL when Contrast is set to 65. 35 fL may require changing Contrast to 72, and 40 fL may require Contrast to be set to 83. In each case, 85 is not the "right" Contrast setting even though the setup disc may have lead you to assume that. Setup discs keep repeating the myth of setting Contrast that appeared way back in the days of CRT when most TVs would not get bright enough to be troublesome. In that case, the highest Contrast setting WAS the best Contrast setting. With modern digital video displays, almost all of them can produce way more light than you want with high Contrast settings. In a bright room with sunlight, you might want 50-60 fL to make the images satisfying. But again, the disc you are using (and all the others) can't tell you what that Contrast setting should be for the TV when there's sunlight in the room... again, the only way to know what you have is with a meter and software - no disc can help you with that in spite of what the directions say.

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post #3 of 3 Old 09-26-2013, 01:37 PM
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While I generally agree with setting contrast for the right light level for say 35fL (as long as there is no color shift or white clipping), the comment on cell light does not apply to 2013 F8500 Samsung panels.
If you were to set cell light to 20 (maximum), contrast would be need to be way down around 55 for say 35fL.
This throws away quite a bit of resolution and will render any 10 point adjustments useless.
On my 51" F8500 panel, cell light @ 14 and contrast @ 90 gets results in 35fL with 10% windows and 21% APL patterns and about 37fL with 18% windows no APL.
This panel is easily capable of over 60fL (crazy bright) with cell @ 20.
I think also the menu's at "cell 20" will be insanely bright.

My $.02

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