AVS Special Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: San Francisco - East Bay area
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Cell Light is a useless and stupid control that should not exist. Set it to the maximum setting and never use it again.
You are not "calibrating" with a disc. All you are doing is finding the best settings but calibration is considerably more in-depth than that and uses controls you can't use without having a meter and software and calibration knowledge.
Next, NO disc, NONE of them... exactly ZERO of them can help you find the best Contrast setting. In fact, the ONLY things you can set with a disc are Black Level (Brightness control) and the best setting for the Sharpness control (which is the setting that does not affect the image at all). All the Contrast pattern can do is tell you the HIGHEST Contrast setting you might ever want to use.
These days, setting the Brightness control to get the right Black Level is something you should be able to do one time and it will always be right after that if you are not changing modes or activating automatic features that should be off. Anything that says "dynamic" or "automatic" in the name should be turned off and left off always.
You should be using Movie mode for accurate images.
The right Contrast setting is the one that causes no eyestrain under your current viewing conditions. That might be 30 fL in a completely dark room (but you would never know how many fL you were producing without a meter and software to measure it), but it might be 35 fL if you are using a color balanced backlight, and it might be 40 fL: if you have some room lights turned on. No disc can help you find those Contrast settings. All the disc can do is tell you how high you can set Contrast without losing detail in steps above 235/100%. But some TVs never lose steps above 235/100% no matter how high you set Contrast. In those cases, all that matters is that you don't have Contrast so high that you experience eyestrain (takes a couple of hours of continuous viewing to determine that). Some displays will show steps above 235/100% when Contrast is below, say 85, but will lose steps when you set Contrast higher. That doesn't mean 85 is the right Contrast setting. It just means you may never want to use a setting higher than 85 if you want to preserve the visibility of white steps above 235/100%. A meter and software may tell you that you get 30 fL when Contrast is set to 65. 35 fL may require changing Contrast to 72, and 40 fL may require Contrast to be set to 83. In each case, 85 is not the "right" Contrast setting even though the setup disc may have lead you to assume that. Setup discs keep repeating the myth of setting Contrast that appeared way back in the days of CRT when most TVs would not get bright enough to be troublesome. In that case, the highest Contrast setting WAS the best Contrast setting. With modern digital video displays, almost all of them can produce way more light than you want with high Contrast settings. In a bright room with sunlight, you might want 50-60 fL to make the images satisfying. But again, the disc you are using (and all the others) can't tell you what that Contrast setting should be for the TV when there's sunlight in the room... again, the only way to know what you have is with a meter and software - no disc can help you with that in spite of what the directions say.
"Movies is magic..." Van Dyke Parks
THX Certified Professional Video Calibration
Widescreen Review -- Home Theater & Sound