ST60 Calibration and Settings - Page 3 - AVS Forum
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post #61 of 71 Old 12-21-2013, 09:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Joshjp View Post

Wow thats a lot to do, ty for the reply,'i just hope i can set the contrast corectly, as i tried to do it with the incredables ht optimiser, but no matter what i did i couldnt
Get it to work right.

Most of all do not copy calibrated settings for the ST60 it's at best a crap shoot and could make your tv worse then factory defaults. Example. I for **** and giggles copied the now more then infamous Dnice ST60 settings and the picture was very red throughout the greyscale, blacks also had a definative red tint going on. I do have a meter and calibrate my own tv but I was just curious to see. Was quite dissappointed with the settings but also not suprised, Dnice or not , the tv panels vary from one panel to the other. Just do yourself a favour and set up your tv using just the basic patterns, Contrast, Brightness, Color/Tint, Sharpness, Cinema Mode and all enhancement's off. Cinema is the closest it get's to being an accurate picture but can be a long ways off even from set to set, without the aid of a colormeter an accurate one for that matter don't bother with, gamma calibration , 2pt and 10pt white balance calibration.
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post #62 of 71 Old 12-21-2013, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Joshjp View Post

Hey guys im getting Disneys WOW tomarow and was woundering what settings to start with? I heard to leave Gamma at 2.2, is this correct?, also what should i set the Panal Brightness to? TY

Besides doing what others have mentioned, set the gamma to 2.6, then make the adjustments using the disc. What I (along with others) have found during calibration is that the 2.6 setting gets you closer to an actual 2.2 value.
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post #63 of 71 Old 12-22-2013, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by keyoctave View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshjp View Post

Hey guys im getting Disneys WOW tomarow and was woundering what settings to start with? I heard to leave Gamma at 2.2, is this correct?, also what should i set the Panal Brightness to? TY

Besides doing what others have mentioned, set the gamma to 2.6, then make the adjustments using the disc. What I (along with others) have found during calibration is that the 2.6 setting gets you closer to an actual 2.2 value.
On the Panasonic 30 and 50 series it depended upon the size of the panel. What you mentioned was true (a setting of 2.6 to achieve 2.2) with the 50" and 55" models, but a setting of 2.4 got you nearest to 2.2 on the 60" and 65" models. I do not know if the same holds true for this year's 60 series.
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post #64 of 71 Old 12-23-2013, 04:36 AM
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Originally Posted by keyoctave View Post

Besides doing what others have mentioned, set the gamma to 2.6, then make the adjustments using the disc. What I (along with others) have found during calibration is that the 2.6 setting gets you closer to an actual 2.2 value.

I have found that also on my 55" and imo the gamma just seems to fall in line better if you start at 2.6. I tried a 2.3 gamma calibration this weekend and I like it alot, didnt think I would but it looks great. My experiementation was prompted by alot of gamma discussion concerning 2.2 vs 2.4 so I decided to split the difference and see what it looks like and I have to say I like the end result. I know it goes against the conventional wisdom but in my case I always felt the color lacked a bit of saturation and the higher gamma helps with skintones. I have gotten excellent results with 6.5% standard windows,.

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post #65 of 71 Old 12-28-2013, 09:36 AM - Thread Starter
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I did a calibration last night, spent i think close to 4 hours on it and ended up with this , see below picture. My 10% white is showing 3.7 de while the rest of the greyscale is pretty low in error. Is 10 % white usually hard to rangle in? I might have just been fatigued and did too many clicks with blue , lol.

defaultcinema.jpg 93k .jpg file


Post300hrcalibration.jpg 93k .jpg file
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post #66 of 71 Old 01-20-2014, 04:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by keyoctave View Post

Using the 10% windows off the Mascior's disc, I did the 2pt cal using a low end setting of 5% stimulus instead of 30%. This is where that red push seems to show up most, just before the image fades to black (like red speckles). After calibration of the 2pt, I then did the 10pt which seemed to correct the extra red cut at the other lower stimulus that the 2pt did. I don't see that red in the black anymore. I have 274 hours on mine.

BTW, my set did seem to have that greenish overcast in certain lighting situations when new, but has pretty much gone away as it has aged and been re-calibrated. I am planning to calibrate again when I pass the 300 hour mark. As to the red color on flesh tones, mine has had that but seems to be not as bad (or maybe I'm just getting used to it). One thing that helped is turning down the color control to a little under what the setting want's to be (using the alternate color bar's through a blue filter on the test disc, in which I have always found to be to 'rich' to my liking). This seems to lessen the red in the flesh tones while still providing (IMO) plenty of color saturation in the image. I also run my set at 28 ftl with back lighting as I view in a light controlled room and can get eye fatigue at higher levels.

I just read and re-read this thread. Leave color at default and adjust using 75%A/75%S the colors might track closer and faces might not appear so red, let your meter do the talking assuming it's fairly accurate. Try to get your dE for luminence of the primaries as close to where it should be to the refrence and your secondaries get the hue as close to refrence. Using a Blue filter is not very accurate.
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post #67 of 71 Old 01-20-2014, 08:45 PM
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I just read and re-read this thread. Leave color at default and adjust using 75%A/75%S the colors might track closer and faces might not appear so red, let your meter do the talking assuming it's fairly accurate. Try to get your dE for luminence of the primaries as close to where it should be to the refrence and your secondaries get the hue as close to refrence. Using a Blue filter is not very accurate.

I have close to 400 hrs on the set now. The colors have really settled in. No more greenish cast, and the skin tones seem to have improved. I have not re-calibrated yet as I am still pleased with the picture. The ST series is such a great value for the quality of picture after calibration. It's just sad that there won't be anymore.
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post #68 of 71 Old 01-20-2014, 11:46 PM
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Has anyone had a problem with major luminance drop jusy @ 25% yellow saturation? CIE also shows strong saturation drop @ 25% yellow sat...All my are other measurements are reasonably close, overall gamma and WB below 1...did yellow saturation sweep again and again - same thing...anyone experienced this phenomenon?
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post #69 of 71 Old 01-25-2014, 04:53 AM
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I entered the service menu and checked is there any abnormality in the picture.

Watching those color patterns I saw this interesting change of black.

The black is not black , if I watch very close I can see grey horizontal lines moving ONLY on the black background . There is one patter - the black BG with the smaller white square when those gray lines disappear and the black is pure black.

Can someone confirm this about the grey horizontal lines ? They are visible in normal content if you have black bars.
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post #70 of 71 Old 01-25-2014, 06:02 AM
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I think that's the ambient light filter you are seing..i saw that too...hold your head still and lines should be gone...black is the blackest it can be only on full field 0% white...
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post #71 of 71 Old 01-25-2014, 06:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mytbyte View Post

I think that's the ambient light filter you are seing..i saw that too...hold your head still and lines should be gone...black is the blackest it can be only on full field 0% white...

No, I can see clearly how they suddenly disappear , watching the same pattern. Its like the voltage is changing or something .
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