Best relatively inexpensive calibration device - spyder or other? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 28 Old 12-05-2013, 09:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Hello,

I'd like something to help calibrate my TV colors, contrast and brightness for me. I see the spyder4 pro on amazon but have no idea what else is out there. Thy spyder seems well suited for computer monitors but wonder about other products that might be more TV oriented.

Thanks
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post #2 of 28 Old 12-05-2013, 09:43 AM
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http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457


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post #3 of 28 Old 12-05-2013, 09:48 AM
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I1 display pro is the way to go
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post #4 of 28 Old 12-05-2013, 10:04 AM
 
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I1 display pro is the way to go

That. Its a minimum.
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post #5 of 28 Old 12-05-2013, 10:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks - does it matter if I'm calibrating for LCD / LED or plasma - I have one of each.
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post #6 of 28 Old 12-05-2013, 10:23 AM
 
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Thanks - does it matter if I'm calibrating for LCD / LED or plasma - I have one of each.

i1D3 can do them all.
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post #7 of 28 Old 12-05-2013, 11:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks - so if I get the http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-EODIS3-i1Display-Pro/dp/B0055MBQOW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1386270175&sr=8-1&keywords=X-Rite+Display+3+PRO+Colorimeter I won't need to buy any slides/film or additional software or do I need something more? Is it relatively self explanatory?

In the reviews a number of people seem to prefer the Spyder4 and some prefer the i1 do they do the same thing?
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post #8 of 28 Old 12-05-2013, 12:08 PM
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You need software there are free versions(HCFR) or non free software Calman or Chromapure. The I1d3 is way better than the Spyder 4. You will also need a pattern source most just use a blue ray player and one of the free calibration discs that can be downloaded here. AVS709 or GCD etc

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post #9 of 28 Old 12-05-2013, 12:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the advice everyone!

Does anyone have a preference who has tried an HCFR version or Calman or Chromapure?
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post #10 of 28 Old 12-05-2013, 12:19 PM
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I like Calman personally but the other two are good choices as well. What type of Plasma do you have ?

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post #11 of 28 Old 12-05-2013, 12:19 PM
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I have only used HCFR. It took me a while to learn but I got an excellent result and the price cannot be beat smile.gif
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post #12 of 28 Old 12-05-2013, 04:01 PM
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I used HCFR before the great guys like zoyd worked to
update it.
it is a great tool and makes you have to understand what
calibration is about.
Thanks to their hard work the new version supports many newer
meters.
How can you go wrong with that?
good luck and learning
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post #13 of 28 Old 12-05-2013, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boe View Post

Thanks - so if I get the http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-EODIS3-i1Display-Pro/dp/B0055MBQOW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1386270175&sr=8-1&keywords=X-Rite+Display+3+PRO+Colorimeter I won't need to buy any slides/film or additional software or do I need something more? Is it relatively self explanatory?

In the reviews a number of people seem to prefer the Spyder4 and some prefer the i1 do they do the same thing?

But do any of those people have equipment to validate that their results are reliable?

The i1 Display Pro is a better meter by every objective metric.

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post #14 of 28 Old 12-05-2013, 08:15 PM - Thread Starter
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I like Calman personally but the other two are good choices as well. What type of Plasma do you have ?

I currently have a Panasonic G10 (I think) and a Sony XBR-65850A (not a plasma) I'm probably about to return for a VT65 or a ZT.
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post #15 of 28 Old 12-05-2013, 08:21 PM - Thread Starter
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But do any of those people have equipment to validate that their results are reliable?

I'm kind of wondering if I'll get more accurate colors with this than with a pair of thx glasses. Maybe it will be much more accurate with one of these devices- I'm just wondering as I don't know.
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post #16 of 28 Old 12-05-2013, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boe View Post

I'm kind of wondering if I'll get more accurate colors with this than with a pair of thx glasses. Maybe it will be much more accurate with one of these devices- I'm just wondering as I don't know.

Yes either one would be an order of magnitude better than just a blue filter.

Blue filters are only for setting the color and tint controls, and even then they rarely do a better job than leaving them at defaults.
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post #17 of 28 Old 12-06-2013, 05:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boe View Post


I currently have a Panasonic G10 (I think) and a Sony XBR-65850A (not a plasma) I'm probably about to return for a VT65 or a ZT.

Calman does autocal for both the VT and ZT plasma lines

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post #18 of 28 Old 12-06-2013, 07:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Calman does autocal for both the VT and ZT plasma lines

I could swear I saw it hear but now I can't find it. Certain products aren't compatible.
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post #19 of 28 Old 12-06-2013, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boe View Post

I could swear I saw it hear but now I can't find it. Certain products aren't compatible.

Panasonic only has support in the top models.

Derek

CTO / Founder - SpectraCal Inc.
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post #20 of 28 Old 12-06-2013, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boe View Post

I could swear I saw it hear but now I can't find it. Certain products aren't compatible.

Meaning ? You just need Calman Control and a supported meter to use autocal on the ZT/VT

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post #21 of 28 Old 12-06-2013, 06:09 PM
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Whatever software you get should have full support for the meter you select or you're not going to like the results. For example, that meter may need some correction for LCD calibration because the light spectrum emitted by CCFL (fluorescent) or RGB LEDs or white LEDs can be so different that they throw measurements off compared to plasma measurements. The software you select should let you specify the type of display you are measuring and by doing that, the measurements should be more accurate due to compensation for the different light spectra you measure from different types of LCD displays vs, plasma displays.

Because lower-cost meters can't necessarily be trusted when measuring LCD displays, some people purchase a used spectroradiometer to use to characterize the less expensive meter (which may be faster at making readings). That insures you'll get good measurements from the lower-cost meter. I've used a Spyder 2 Pro in the past (same as any Spyder 2 except the Pro models were the ones that produced the most accurate measurements out of all Spyder 2 meters) in the past and it was worthless for calibrating any LCD or projection lamp display or projector, but did sort of OK on plasma (would not measure low light levels though... 10% white measurements were marginal, darker than that, forget it.

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post #22 of 28 Old 12-07-2013, 10:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Do these color calibration things also work as a light meter? I'm reading in another post about lumens and distance from the TV and the TV type. I had no idea it was that complex but I'm anxious to learn.
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post #23 of 28 Old 12-07-2013, 01:08 PM
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Hence my link in post 2. Please read through that material; it will answer many of your questions.

Michael


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post #24 of 28 Old 12-07-2013, 06:56 PM
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Lumens is not something you measure for flat panel displays and you don't really need it for projectors either unless you are writing a review or some technical analysis of the projector.

Lumens is a legitimate measurement, just not one we're much interested in for calibrating home theater and definitely not for calibrating flat panel displays. Someone designing a home theater using a projector and scree might need the projector's lumen output to size the screen properly, but manufacturer lumen specs lie so much that they are essentially worthless. So you'd have to have the exact projector you were going to use, calibrated, that you could then use in total darkness to measure the light output in lumens. Once you know that, you can calculate the size and gain of the projection screen that could be used with the projector so that you'd get roughly twice the light you need so that when the projector lamp is near the end of life, you'd still have a reasonable light output (since a projection lamp is generally replaced around the time it reaches around half it's original light output. That sort of stuff isn't a factor with flat panel displays.

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post #25 of 28 Old 12-09-2013, 09:58 AM
 
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If I1Pro/i1Pro2 spectrometer is often purchased with i1D3 colorimeter so that i1D3 colorimeter can be profiled with i1Pro/i1Pro2 because i1D3 is not as accurate as i1Pro/i1Pro2, then why not just buy i1Pro/i1Pro2 without i1D3?
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post #26 of 28 Old 12-09-2013, 10:14 AM
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One reads lower greyscale better. Or was it black levels rather.
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post #27 of 28 Old 12-09-2013, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
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If I1Pro/i1Pro2 spectrometer is often purchased with i1D3 colorimeter so that i1D3 colorimeter can be profiled with i1Pro/i1Pro2 because i1D3 is not as accurate as i1Pro/i1Pro2, then why not just buy i1Pro/i1Pro2 without i1D3?

Low light accuracy, speed.

The best of both world : profile the d3 with the i1 pro, and calibrate with the d3 (accuracy, speed, good repeatability, beter in low light measures...)
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post #28 of 28 Old 12-09-2013, 12:23 PM
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Low light accuracy, speed.

The best of both world : profile the d3 with the i1 pro, and calibrate with the d3 (accuracy, speed, good repeatability, beter in low light measures...)

speed wise the C6/D3 is no faster than the i1pro spectro (rev D) when both are set to single sample per read... in fact, the C6 is slower for darker patterns due to the adaptive exposure

(this is with low light handler off on both meters)

the main difference is the C6/D3 can read lower grayscale levels like 0-30% stim accurately once profiled, where as the i1pro spectro starts to fall apart once you get to about 10 cdm

of course, you can turn on LLH for the spectro, but that can't magically make it read more accurately below 10 cdm (all it does is stabilize the readings a bit)
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