I would try either BT.1886, display gamma with black level compensation, or power gamma with a lower reference gamma target. Also turn off auto-dimming for calibration if there's an option to, and turn it on afterwards (if you want).
edit: seems as if you already did use black level compensation. I would do it again but with auto-dimming off. Auto-dimming is probably causing your black level to measure 0, essentially giving you a pure power gamma. Again, you can turn it on after if you want.
I would try either BT.1886, display gamma with black level compensation, or power gamma with a lower reference gamma target. Also turn off auto-dimming for calibration if there's an option to, and turn it on afterwards (if you want).
edit: seems as if you already did use black level compensation. I would do it again but with auto-dimming off. Auto-dimming is probably causing your black level to measure 0, essentially giving you a pure power gamma. Again, you can turn it on after if you want.
Yes, my mistake... I see that now. I posted just before I had to step out. I thought I saw tracking at 0% and newer versions of HCFR don't display 0% measurements for grayscale and gamma.
Also just realized that you only have a 2pt white balance so calibrating to bt.1886 isn't really possible.
Quote:
I don't have auto-dimming option in settings on my tv.
From the picture is looks like before your calibration , your gamma was too low, making shadows appear brighter then they should be. The after gamma might be a tad low in the lower stimulus of the gamma range effecting shadow detail but to me it doesn't look like it's crushing blacks. They just appear dimmer in the after calibration picture. All the detail still looks like it's there. Just my opinion though. I forget now if your gamma is higher at one stimulus level then it should be say 2.28 and not 2.22 is this dimmer or brighter? and I am guessing it's the opposite when it's lower then it should be.
I would try either BT.1886, display gamma with black level compensation, or power gamma with a lower reference gamma target. Also turn off auto-dimming for calibration if there's an option to, and turn it on afterwards (if you want).
edit: seems as if you already did use black level compensation. I would do it again but with auto-dimming off. Auto-dimming is probably causing your black level to measure 0, essentially giving you a pure power gamma. Again, you can turn it on after if you want.
Frankly, your Before picture looks like the Brightness control is 2 or 3 clicks too bright. Your After picture makes it look like the Brightness control is 1 click too dark. As Ted said, use a brightness evaluation pattern (PLUGE or digital levels 0-25 (a better pattern IMO)) to see if you have the black level set correctly or not.
Your After photo IS NOT showing a huge amount of black crush... if the control is off, it's not off by more than 1 or 2 clicks.
You ALWAYS re-checl black level after grayscale calibration and you may have to tweak Brightness. You use a black level evaluation pattern to set the Brightness control to get your black level set correctly. Once the pattern is correct, movies will be correct whether you think they are correct or not. Being used to how images look with the Brightness control set too high (shadow detail much too bright as a result) will throw-off your powers of evaluation. You always go back to the best black level pattern you have available. I much prefer a pattern with digital levels 0-25 or 0-30 over a PLIGE pattern that could be showing you 4 digital levels in 1 jump making the control adjustment much less critical. Much more precision in setting black level when you have a pattern with digital values from 0-25 or 0-30 so you can see each digital step and what it s doing.
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