Originally Posted by BobRiff
Actually it seems worse at about 30-60% range (just guessing of course). Definitely not at the high or low end.
I watched Sin City last night and it was remarkably better than ATT, in fact it was almost perfect.
However there were still a few areas of certain scenes with a slight pink tint (Bruce Willis' car in the first scene was one).
Much to my wife's chagrin, I'm going to keep playing around trying to achieve "perfection" for a while yet.
On the Panasonic ST60, using the 2 point White Balance "Low" controls leads you to boost red, and then after getting the 10 point controls perfect, you have red-tinted blacks. The solution to that is not to use the 2 point "Low" controls. It's possible the 2 or 10 point controls are messing you up with your Samsung, so I would see how it goes using just one or the other.
I started with a C3, and I noticed a big difference when I upgraded to Calman 5.2. Compared to previous Calman versions, the red was steadily decreased as you go up the grayscale; that is, the red "line" on the grayscale chart had a constant negative slope, ending up down 7% at 100% white, IIRC. I asked about this, and they confirmed it was a purposeful change to make the C3 more accurate with plasmas, which I was happy to hear, because I liked the results better. The effect, however, was for me to boost red going up the grayscale, which is not your problem. I later bought an i1D3, and it measured red even lower than Calman 5.2 and the C3. I thought it improved the picture, too. Some time after that, I rented a ColorMunki Photo spectro, and it measured within +/- 2 dE of the i1D3. If you stick with the C3, it would be worth it to rent a spectro and profile the C3 on your set. My rental was $60 from LensRentals.com, and last I looked, SpectraCal was renting the superior i1Pro for $199. (If they dropped it to $100, I would have gone with them, hint, hint.) Your wife should really love this idea.
FWIW, the process that worked best for me on my ST60 was to use the high WB controls to get things in the ballpark, then in the 10 point controls, adjust the red and blue to match the green at each step, leaving the green at zero. Then I used the gamma controls to make it match BT.1886. Then I repeated the process to make final minor adjustments. Another thing that can have a big effect on the outcome is the patterns you use. I found small windows to work best for real material across all APLs and settled on 2%.