Official calibration of the Vizio P series - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 1976 Old 10-20-2014, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by superkyle View Post
I guess I never had a target brightness. Under references I set that to rec 709(75%/75%) and D65. I left the brightness at 50 which is the highest I could leave it at not to notice any dimming artifacts. I figured from there I could just alter the backlight to tweak the brightness of the picture to my liking. How did you set a target for the brightness? Is that something I have to do? I figured doing it this way would be fine but then again If I am going to take the time and do all of this I would like to make sure it is as good as it can get. But in short at 100% my brightness is 43.86ftL
It comes to personal preference, but yes, that is something you should do. Bring up the 100% white grayscale or color image and measure the Y value in free measurement (I believe I wrote some instructions above). Night time viewing for the home is typically 30-40fTL. Cinema I believe is 14-16fTL. Daytime viewing is whatever you think is comfortable. I do almost all of my TV watching at night so I targeted 35fTL. On the P502ui-B1, that means a backlight setting of 19 according to 1D3 (I checked it against the GCD and AVS709). This was with FALD off.

I'm kinda stumped now why at 50 you see 43.86fTL but I measure WAY higher than that.

Could the P502ui-B1 screen just be that much brighter than the P60/70s? I have to bring the backlight down again to 19 to measure 35fTL.

Again, it's personal preference so if you like it at ~44ftL, leave it.
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post #32 of 1976 Old 10-20-2014, 07:20 AM - Thread Starter
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That is odd. I would expect the 55" to be a bit brighter but not to the extent that you are describing. Again I'm fairly new to all this so at this point I just believe what the meter is telling me without much question. When I get off work I will play around with everything again and maybe if you happen to get time to provide that excellent walk through on the color calibration that you provided for the grey scale I can get that completed as well and then we can really compare numbers.

This may have something to do with the backlight however. My backlight at the time was set to 50. If you were set to 100 then that may be the cause for the difference but I am assuming yours was most likely set to 50 as well.
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post #33 of 1976 Old 10-20-2014, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by pisymbol View Post
Post your gamma curve!

Here are my values.

Btw, what was the target ftL you used? That is the one thing I don't understand about Googer's calibration which would be INSANELY bright on the P502ui-B1. I targeted 35ftL.
I like 35-40 fL for an evening mode but my settings as posted don't even reach that - it peaks at around 28 1/2 fL, even with backlight at 100! And I doubt the P70 is really that dim compared to the P50 - I can get it to output far north of 100 fL - but using Calibrated Dark as a base greatly dims the set. I expect the same would happen on the P50 as well.... As I recall calibrating in other modes with Clear Action off (since that greatly affects brightness as well, I measure right around 40 fL with backlight at 28).

Last edited by Googer; 10-20-2014 at 09:05 AM.
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post #34 of 1976 Old 10-20-2014, 09:00 AM
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@superkyle - your numbers seem a bit odd to me but if the results are good I wouldn't argue with it. One thing to look out for though since you have some of the wild swings from one level to the next in the 11-point settings - you may want to put up a 0-100% grayscale gradient and double-check you don't have issues that the discrete patterns aren't uncovering. You have them all measuring well but the grayscale could go completely to hell in the interpolated areas in between them - the grayscale gradient would make such problematic areas quite easy to spot by eye.
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post #35 of 1976 Old 10-20-2014, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Googer View Post
I like 35-40 fL for an evening mode but my settings as posted don't even reach that - it peaks at around 28 1/2 fL, even with backlight at 100! And I doubt the P70 is really that dim compared to the P50 - I can get it to output far north of 100 fL - but using Calibrated Dark as a base greatly dims the set. I expect the same would happen on the P50 as well.... As I recall calibrating in other modes with Clear Action off (since that greatly affects brightness as well, I measure right around 40 fL with backlight at 28).
Ah, you have Clear Action on Googer? Is that it?

Yeah, if I recall 28 IS around 40ft on my set with all the Picture Modes off (minus Game Low Latency as I did a calibration with that at first based on buzz's settings), but reduced it to 19 for 35 ftL (like right on the money 35ftL).

Anyway, no big deal, my numbers look good.
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post #36 of 1976 Old 10-20-2014, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by pisymbol View Post
Ah, you have Clear Action on Googer? Is that it?

Yeah, if I recall 28 IS around 40ft on my set with all the Picture Modes off (minus Game Low Latency as I did a calibration with that at first based on buzz's settings), but reduced it to 19 for 35 ftL (like right on the money 35ftL).

Anyway, no big deal, my numbers look good.
Yes, though Clear Action on or off doesn't make a particularly large difference in regards to brightness in Calibrated Dark. In other modes (or if you save a customized Calibrated Dark, which makes it lose its 'magic' difference), then yes, CA being on makes a very large difference in the light output.
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post #37 of 1976 Old 10-20-2014, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Googer View Post
Yes, though Clear Action on or off doesn't make a particularly large difference in regards to brightness in Calibrated Dark. In other modes (or if you save a customized Calibrated Dark, which makes it lose its 'magic' difference), then yes, CA being on makes a very large difference in the light output.
Interesting. I started in Standard mode and then calibrated from there.

Are you saying I would get significantly different results if I started from Calibrated Dark or Calibrated? I am trying to follow buzz and you but it seems it is all in bits and pieces and scattered through this and the main P-series thread.

EDIT: I have no idea why this would ever be true! LOL.

Last edited by pisymbol; 10-20-2014 at 03:25 PM.
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post #38 of 1976 Old 10-20-2014, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by superkyle View Post
That is odd. I would expect the 55" to be a bit brighter but not to the extent that you are describing. Again I'm fairly new to all this so at this point I just believe what the meter is telling me without much question. When I get off work I will play around with everything again and maybe if you happen to get time to provide that excellent walk through on the color calibration that you provided for the grey scale I can get that completed as well and then we can really compare numbers.

This may have something to do with the backlight however. My backlight at the time was set to 50. If you were set to 100 then that may be the cause for the difference but I am assuming yours was most likely set to 50 as well.
Yea, will do. If you don't see it tonight, then tomorrow. Been insanely busy.

Make sure you are on 75%/75% REC709 AS WELL AS CIE2000 in the Advanced options.

1) Do a primary/secondary sweep, use THE GCD 75%/75% lumination/saturation option (I use the 10% windows)
2) Go to CMS colors
3) I went in order of primary then secondary
4) Free measure on!
5) Pull up a color 75%/75% window
6) First use Brightness in the CMS settings for the color to get close to the delta luminance %, closer to 0.0 is what you want. Then adjust Saturation and Hue to narrow in the dE.
7) Do this for every color
8) Perform individual color saturation sweeps (bring down the measure menu for that and hit Go on the right side of the window to do this)
9) Bring up the CIE chart, look at the squares, are they aligning on the 0/25/75/100% numbers (ignore 100% for now).
10) Go to step 5, rinse repeat and try to play with delta luminance and delta E numbers to get the lowest AVERAGE dE across a single color sweep.

That should do it.
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post #39 of 1976 Old 10-20-2014, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by pisymbol View Post
Interesting. I started in Standard mode and then calibrated from there.

Are you saying I would get significantly different results if I started from Calibrated Dark or Calibrated? I am trying to follow buzz and you but it seems it is all in bits and pieces and scattered through this and the main P-series thread.

EDIT: I have no idea why this would ever be true! LOL.
Short version: yes, the mode matters; no that doesn't make a lot of sense.

Longer version: as far as end accuracy, the results technically aren't that different (though you'll likely find you can't get the set nearly as bright when customizing settings in Calibrated Dark) - the main advantage is that artifacts of local dimming (blooming around bright objects and trailing when the LED's are too slow to turn off) are greatly reduced as the local dimming algorithm used appears to be far more aggressive in this mode. It seems this should be another setting that would be nice to modify in the Advanced menu that's completely hidden from us right now. I did notice that grayscale is tracked a bit differently when I first started playing with Calibrated Dark, which is why it necessitated an all-new calibration to dial it in. The CMS settings for colors weren't really affected though; they're really only a bit different from my previous calibration attempts due to me getting better at working with the set's controls to maximize its accuracy.
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post #40 of 1976 Old 10-20-2014, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by pisymbol View Post
Yea, will do. If you don't see it tonight, then tomorrow. Been insanely busy.

Make sure you are on 75%/75% REC709 AS WELL AS CIE2000 in the Advanced options.

1) Do a primary/secondary sweep, use THE GCD 75%/75% lumination/saturation option (I use the 10% windows)
2) Go to CMS colors
3) I went in order of primary then secondary
4) Free measure on!
5) Pull up a color 75%/75% window
6) First use Brightness in the CMS settings for the color to get close to the delta luminance %, closer to 0.0 is what you want. Then adjust Saturation and Hue to narrow in the dE.
7) Do this for every color
8) Perform individual color saturation sweeps (bring down the measure menu for that and hit Go on the right side of the window to do this)
9) Bring up the CIE chart, look at the squares, are they aligning on the 0/25/75/100% numbers (ignore 100% for now).
10) Go to step 5, rinse repeat and try to play with delta luminance and delta E numbers to get the lowest AVERAGE dE across a single color sweep.

That should do it.
At least for the 60 and 70, I'll also add be sparing with the hue control when adjusting the colors - particularly red and blue (the two you'll be most tempted to make large changes with to pull the results more in-line) - if you do so, you can get the saturation sweeps looking good but will have succeeded in completely messing up interpolated colors in-between, which extremely important colors (such as flesh tones) use. I believe HCFR has the built-in standard color checker suite as well - make sure you check these as well if it does, as their accuracy actually is probably more important than the saturation sweeps are!
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post #41 of 1976 Old 10-20-2014, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Googer View Post
At least for the 60 and 70, I'll also add be sparing with the hue control when adjusting the colors - particularly red and blue (the two you'll be most tempted to make large changes with to pull the results more in-line) - if you do so, you can get the saturation sweeps looking good but will have succeeded in completely messing up interpolated colors in-between, which extremely important colors (such as flesh tones) use. I believe HCFR has the built-in standard color checker suite as well - make sure you check these as well if it does, as their accuracy actually is probably more important than the saturation sweeps are!
That is an excellent point Googer. I did do Color Checker sweeps and for the most part the are in line (minus one Orange Yellow or something...I have to check).

One thing that bothers me is the red. It's pretty obvious on broadcast TV but not so much on Bluray (I really don't know why either).
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post #42 of 1976 Old 10-20-2014, 07:15 PM
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That is an excellent point Googer. I did do Color Checker sweeps and for the most part the are in line (minus one Orange Yellow or something...I have to check).

One thing that bothers me is the red. It's pretty obvious on broadcast TV but not so much on Bluray (I really don't know why either).
If you look at my color checker results from my settings, you'll see that's right - my orange-yellow swatch is the worst one, but still not bad (dE of ~4.3 on it). I could have pulled it (as well as the 'yellow' swatch) closer with more of an adjustment to yellow hue, but doing so messes up more pure yellow colors (which the yellow saturation sweep encompasses). My current settings still adjust yellow hue some, which reduces those color checker errors some (orange-yellow was around dE of 5 with no hue correction) but still keeps truer yellows and greenish yellows in check.

Red is the hardest color to get right on these sets for sure but it can be tamed. The P60 and 70 obviously still have the shift towards orange on the high end (my saturation sweep chart shows this really well since I did a 10% sweep measure ) but even that is relatively subtle for most of the the red sweep, only starting to become rather noticeable at 90% and 100%, which are saturated enough that they're outside our critical memory colors since those are significantly less saturated than that.
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post #43 of 1976 Old 10-20-2014, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Googer View Post
If you look at my color checker results from my settings, you'll see that's right - my orange-yellow swatch is the worst one, but still not bad (dE of ~4.3 on it). I could have pulled it (as well as the 'yellow' swatch) closer with more of an adjustment to yellow hue, but doing so messes up more pure yellow colors (which the yellow saturation sweep encompasses). My current settings still adjust yellow hue some, which reduces those color checker errors some (orange-yellow was around dE of 5 with no hue correction) but still keeps truer yellows and greenish yellows in check.

Red is the hardest color to get right on these sets for sure but it can be tamed. The P60 and 70 obviously still have the shift towards orange on the high end (my saturation sweep chart shows this really well since I did a 10% sweep measure ) but even that is relatively subtle for most of the the red sweep, only starting to become rather noticeable at 90% and 100%, which are saturated enough that they're outside our critical memory colors since those are significantly less saturated than that.
FYI, this is exactly what I found too. Orange yellow came in at 3.8 for me.
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post #44 of 1976 Old 10-21-2014, 05:47 AM - Thread Starter
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@superkyle - your numbers seem a bit odd to me but if the results are good I wouldn't argue with it. One thing to look out for though since you have some of the wild swings from one level to the next in the 11-point settings - you may want to put up a 0-100% grayscale gradient and double-check you don't have issues that the discrete patterns aren't uncovering. You have them all measuring well but the grayscale could go completely to hell in the interpolated areas in between them - the grayscale gradient would make such problematic areas quite easy to spot by eye.
Thanks for your advise. When I get off today I will check it out and see what it looks like before I begin the color calibration. Sorry for the late reply I have been rather swamped lately.
What reason could cause my P70 to only read about 44ftL at a brightness and backlight of 50 while is seems both of you are reading around 40ftL at 25-30? I started from the calibrated setting not calibrated dark as I wanted to save that for night time viewing since you said it provided a much more aggressive dimming scheme.

Also I have a question. It may be a stupid one but as a newbie to calibrating I figured I would ask. Since we are forced to do the calibration at 75% saturation what effect does that have 0-100% I realize it obviously will skew at the higher end but does any colors skew at the lower end? I ask because I was looking at your graphs and it appears as though blue and red are the only ones that skew high but everything else below 75% seems to be displaying correctly.

Last edited by superkyle; 10-21-2014 at 06:02 AM.
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post #45 of 1976 Old 10-21-2014, 06:21 AM
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Thanks for your advise. When I get off today I will check it out and see what it looks like before I begin the color calibration. Sorry for the late reply I have been rather swamped lately.
What reason could cause my P70 to only read about 44ftL at a brightness and backlight of 50 while is seems both of you are reading around 40ftL at 25-30? I started from the calibrated setting not calibrated dark as I wanted to save that for night time viewing since you said it provided a much more aggressive dimming scheme.
You probably have Clear Action on. If you turn it off you'll probably get very similar light output to us.

Quote:
Also I have a question. It may be a stupid one but as a newbie to calibrating I figured I would ask. Since we are forced to do the calibration at 75% saturation what effect does that have 0-100% I realize it obviously will skew at the higher end but does any colors skew at the lower end? I ask because I was looking at your graphs and it appears as though blue and red are the only ones that skew high but everything else below 75% seems to be displaying correctly.
Yes they only skew on the high end; lower saturations don't skew at all when you have hue set correctly. Without any hue adjustment, red in particular skews a tiny bit towards orange even at low saturation levels. It's probably actually best to work on red at 50% instead as the unavoidable part of the orange skew is already beginning at 75%. Actually that's not totally true - you can adjust hue enough to get 75% fully in-line but that's enough you'll skew real colors too much towards the red-magenta part of the spectrum (so people will appear sun-burnt, etc.). Fortunately the color checker colors will reveal these problems should you accidentally trigger them.
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post #46 of 1976 Old 10-21-2014, 06:38 AM - Thread Starter
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You probably have Clear Action on. If you turn it off you'll probably get very similar light output to us
Clear action is off. Actually everything is turned off except GLL and I have experimented with smooth motion although I don't think this effects the output brightness. I will play around with all the settings when I get home and see what the max output I can get if I crank it all the way up.
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post #47 of 1976 Old 10-21-2014, 03:29 PM
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Googer: most of the calibrations I've seen have Black Detail set to Low, but you have it turned off. What's the reasoning behind this?
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post #48 of 1976 Old 10-21-2014, 06:42 PM
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Clear action is off. Actually everything is turned off except GLL and I have experimented with smooth motion although I don't think this effects the output brightness. I will play around with all the settings when I get home and see what the max output I can get if I crank it all the way up.
My numbers are up (see first page), let me know what you think!
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post #49 of 1976 Old 10-21-2014, 08:30 PM - Thread Starter
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My numbers are up (see first page), let me know what you think!
Every looks good to me. I just finished my calibration and will post my results tomorrow. My delta for the red is about the same as yours. Although it looks like you were able to line up the colors a tab bit better. No matter what I did I could not get them to line up. I'll post my results but continue to tweak until I am happy. As of now pretty much every color looks great except skin tones. I even made sure I did not adjust the red hue much at all. Basically sacrificing the delta to make sure the skin tones were right. If you have time and don't mind I would love to see your color checker results also. I ran mine today with a average delta of 1.4 and a max of 3.4. My yellow is actually one of the worst :/. Hopefully googer can help me out since he seems to have this figured out. Thanks for all your help I'll post my results as soon as I can tomorrow to compare.
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I've been following this thread and the official pseries and I am lost. I bought my first tv, the p50b, still waiting on vizio to send it. I just wanted to know, what I need to calibrate my television once I get it. Is it possible for someone with little knowledge to calibrate a set?. and what to look for, as in damage or a bad screen. this is my first time investing on a television and I want to get the best out of it. I will be watching lots of live European soccer and my ps4. Also will I need a special HDMI cable?

Any help is welcome and highly appreciated. Sorry for my noob questions.
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post #51 of 1976 Old 10-21-2014, 08:52 PM - Thread Starter
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I've been following this thread and the official pseries and I am lost. I bought my first tv, the p50b, still waiting on vizio to send it. I just wanted to know, what I need to calibrate my television once I get it. Is it possible for someone with little knowledge to calibrate a set?. and what to look for, as in damage or a bad screen. this is my first time investing on a television and I want to get the best out of it. I will be watching lots of live European soccer and my ps4. Also will I need a special HDMI cable?

Any help is welcome and highly appreciated. Sorry for my noob questions.
Things you will need to calibrate are listed on the first page. Mainly you will need a calibration meter. Preferred for the price is the i1 display pro, software (hcfr) which is free several hours learning how to use the software. Once I completly finish my calibration I will be posting a step by step guide that should help you out a lot. Take a minute and read through the links on the first page as it will give you an idea of what is needed.
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post #52 of 1976 Old 10-21-2014, 09:09 PM
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Things you will need to calibrate are listed on the first page. Mainly you will need a calibration meter. Preferred for the price is the i1 display pro, software (hcfr) which is free several hours learning how to use the software. Once I completly finish my calibration I will be posting a step by step guide that should help you out a lot. Take a minute and read through the links on the first page as it will give you an idea of what is needed.

You may want to post a link to the HTG calibrating Leo's TV with "beginners" links. Sometimes people are visual learners and that video goes step by step albeit for a different TV the general principles are the same.


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post #53 of 1976 Old 10-21-2014, 09:12 PM
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Things you will need to calibrate are listed on the first page. Mainly you will need a calibration meter. Preferred for the price is the i1 display pro, software (hcfr) which is free several hours learning how to use the software. Once I completly finish my calibration I will be posting a step by step guide that should help you out a lot. Take a minute and read through the links on the first page as it will give you an idea of what is needed.

thank you.
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post #54 of 1976 Old 10-21-2014, 09:22 PM
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Things you will need to calibrate are listed on the first page. Mainly you will need a calibration meter. Preferred for the price is the i1 display pro, software (hcfr) which is free several hours learning how to use the software. Once I completly finish my calibration I will be posting a step by step guide that should help you out a lot. Take a minute and read through the links on the first page as it will give you an idea of what is needed.

after seeing the price for the calibrating meter, i think having Bestbuy calibrate it is my best option. im a student on a tight budget.
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post #55 of 1976 Old 10-21-2014, 09:39 PM
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after seeing the price for the calibrating meter, i think having Bestbuy calibrate it is my best option. im a student on a tight budget.

My you'd probably be better just getting one of the free discs and making basic adjustments. Neither calibration you often get what you pay for. It's not a "must have" so if you can't afford it there is nothing wrong with waiting until you can.


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post #56 of 1976 Old 10-21-2014, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post
My you'd probably be better just getting one of the free discs and making basic adjustments. Neither calibration you often get what you pay for. It's not a "must have" so if you can't afford it there is nothing wrong with waiting until you can.


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Yeah this. You can probably get 70% of calibration just by using a good calibration disc like S&M, WOW, AVS709, etc.
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post #57 of 1976 Old 10-21-2014, 09:50 PM
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Every looks good to me. I just finished my calibration and will post my results tomorrow. My delta for the red is about the same as yours. Although it looks like you were able to line up the colors a tab bit better. No matter what I did I could not get them to line up. I'll post my results but continue to tweak until I am happy. As of now pretty much every color looks great except skin tones. I even made sure I did not adjust the red hue much at all. Basically sacrificing the delta to make sure the skin tones were right. If you have time and don't mind I would love to see your color checker results also. I ran mine today with a average delta of 1.4 and a max of 3.4. My yellow is actually one of the worst :/. Hopefully googer can help me out since he seems to have this figured out. Thanks for all your help I'll post my results as soon as I can tomorrow to compare.
Yeah, that is some good numbers.

I did 1.59 avg dE w/max of 3.8 (Orange-friggin-yellow). I could have gone lower on the dE avg but then as you noticed, the colors don't track as well.

The above was a compromise after HOURS AND HOURS (I mean like 8+ hours over 2-3 nights) playing with it. Suffice it to say, unless someone sees something awful about my numbers, I'm leaving them! (I actually just updated my grayscale and got it down to an avg dE of 0.4! Updated picture on post).

Last edited by pisymbol; 10-21-2014 at 09:54 PM.
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post #58 of 1976 Old 10-22-2014, 06:23 AM
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Yes they only skew on the high end; lower saturations don't skew at all when you have hue set correctly. Without any hue adjustment, red in particular skews a tiny bit towards orange even at low saturation levels. It's probably actually best to work on red at 50% instead as the unavoidable part of the orange skew is already beginning at 75%. Actually that's not totally true - you can adjust hue enough to get 75% fully in-line but that's enough you'll skew real colors too much towards the red-magenta part of the spectrum (so people will appear sun-burnt, etc.). Fortunately the color checker colors will reveal these problems should you accidentally trigger them.
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Originally Posted by superkyle View Post
Every looks good to me. I just finished my calibration and will post my results tomorrow. My delta for the red is about the same as yours. Although it looks like you were able to line up the colors a tab bit better. No matter what I did I could not get them to line up. I'll post my results but continue to tweak until I am happy. As of now pretty much every color looks great except skin tones. I even made sure I did not adjust the red hue much at all. Basically sacrificing the delta to make sure the skin tones were right. If you have time and don't mind I would love to see your color checker results also. I ran mine today with a average delta of 1.4 and a max of 3.4. My yellow is actually one of the worst :/. Hopefully googer can help me out since he seems to have this figured out. Thanks for all your help I'll post my results as soon as I can tomorrow to compare.
Here's an easy way ---

With the restricted Rec.709 gamut you have to accept high dE for Red. I suggest calibrating at 75% saturation and 75% luminance. Once finished, put up either a paused video or photo of a face because if Caucasian flesh tones are not correct you're gonna hate your picture. Angelina Jolie comes to mind as her flesh is usually fairly pale and excess Red stands out like a sore thumb. At this point goto the Color Tuner and with Red only make adjustments to get acceptable flesh. You might want to try some minor adjustment of the Tint Control as well.

Once you get something you can live with, rerun both Grayscale and Gamut because your previous adjustments may have affected them somewhat. Reiterate as required.




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Originally Posted by ricartho View Post
after seeing the price for the calibrating meter, i think having Bestbuy calibrate it is my best option. im a student on a tight budget.
Actually, that's a very bad option for two reasons. First, do a Google search re: BB calibrations and you'll find a ton of bad news. Secondly, the VA panels have a serious problem with Red and in all likelihood the BB calibrators aren't going to know a thing about it.
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post #59 of 1976 Old 10-22-2014, 06:58 AM
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Googer: most of the calibrations I've seen have Black Detail set to Low, but you have it turned off. What's the reasoning behind this?
Z-Mad used it on low, but I think that's the only one - I'm pretty sure other people formally calibrating has it turned off. I'm generally not a fan of such 'smart' contrast-enhancing processing and would rather just have proper gamma response to begin with, which I get through the full gamut of base gamma setting plus the 2- and 11-point grayscale settings.
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post #60 of 1976 Old 10-22-2014, 07:02 AM
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Actually, that's a very bad option for two reasons. First, do a Google search re: BB calibrations and you'll find a ton of bad news. Secondly, the VA panels have a serious problem with Red and in all likelihood the BB calibrators aren't going to know a thing about it.
I agree; there's no way a GeekSquad calibrator that got an hour-long crash course in calibrating is going to know the ins-and-outs of getting good results out of these TV's. Heck, unless they've been reading the discussions on calibrating these sets here, even a highly experienced calibrator likely wouldn't unless they put a really significant amount of time into checking real content and / or at least use additional patterns that likely aren't considered part of their normal workflow (yet? ). I believe the absolute best of the best calibrators do actually do that already but even if they notice issues with real content after a 'normal' calibration pass, they may not have the time needed (again, unless they've been reading here) to know how to work with the set's controls to bring out its best (which of course is the point of calibrating in the first place )...

Last edited by Googer; 10-22-2014 at 07:05 AM.
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