samsung ks8000 Calibration - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 60 Old 01-02-2017, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by ttnuagmada View Post




I'm also not really used to these kinds of CMS controls. I did 100% patterns starting out, but everything below it was off, so I ended up doing 75%, which got everything mostly ok, but seemed to give sub-optimal results at 100%. One thing I noticed that was strange, was the blue color having way too much red. It was already at 0, so i couldn't turn it down any, and yet the dE was fine without my being able to turn it down? seemed strange to me. Colors when watching content seemed a little bit under-saturated maybe.

Anywho, If you guys have any tips, I would be grateful.
Did you try calibrating the CMS to 75%amplitude/75%saturation?

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post #32 of 60 Old 01-02-2017, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by KC-Technerd View Post
Well, I finally had the opportunity to test this, and I couldn't tell that it made any difference at all. I saw no evidence of any change in chroma subsampling, nor the available picture controls. It also made no difference on the backlight dimming when the average picture level is low.
It only works if the input is coming from a HDMI port, is 640x480 or higher (not counting 720x480 or 720x576), is not interlaced and has a framerate of 30FPS or 60FPS (50FPS should also work if you have a PAL set). Also I don't think it works if you're feeding a HDR signal.

What can I say, Samsung is stupid.
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post #33 of 60 Old 01-02-2017, 11:29 AM
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Re did my calibration for the KS8000 today. Last time I did it in a window running CalMAN on the same computer. This time I ran CalMAN on a Surface while showing full fields on the TV. Came out with a lot different results... (Also this time I used Gamma -1 for a deeper picture. Ended up with a Gamma 2.35 using BT.1886 on CalMAN)

Again, done with an i1Display Pro. (Deleted old settings post)

Basic settings
Backlight: 7
Brightness: 45
Contrast: 95
Sharpness: 0
Color: 50
Tint: G50/R50
Digital Clean View: Off
Auto Motion Plus: Off
Smart LED: Off
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Color Tone: Warm 2
Gamma: -1
Color Space: Custom


White Balance 2 Point
R-Offset: -1
G-Offset: 0
B-Offset: 0
R-Gain: -1
G-Gain: 0
B-Gain: 2


White Balance 10 Point
10%: 45, 40, 35
20%: 28, 24, 29
30%: 16, 17, 17
40%: 1, 3, 17
50%: -2, -2, 10
60%: 1, -1, 12
70%: 0, 1, 11
80%: 1, -2, 9
90%: 0, 0, 15
100%: 0, 0, -9


Color Space
Red: 30, 8, 2
Green: 26, 48, 6
Blue: 0, 6, 44
Yellow: 51, 51, 7
Cyan: 24, 48, 50
Magenta: 33, 13, 49
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Samsung UN65KS800, Denon AVR-X2300W, Polk CS20 Center, Polk Monitor 75T Fronts, Polk TSI300 Rears, Power Sound Audio S1500 Subwoofer.
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post #34 of 60 Old 01-02-2017, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by sodaboy581 View Post
I checked Auto even before I went to Custom. They weren't spot on. Very close, but wasn't "spot on". Every panel is different.
I can't argue with you there. BTW, were you using one of the I1D3's built-in display types, or is your meter separately profiled to that display using a spectrophotometer?

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post #35 of 60 Old 01-03-2017, 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Quad5Ny View Post
It only works if the input is coming from a HDMI port, is 640x480 or higher (not counting 720x480 or 720x576), is not interlaced and has a framerate of 30FPS or 60FPS (50FPS should also work if you have a PAL set). Also I don't think it works if you're feeding a HDR signal.

What can I say, Samsung is stupid.
That's probably it then. The input was from an HDMI port, coming from a Sony PS3, but I'm pretty sure I was in 1080p/24 at the time I tried it. I had the Spears & Munsil 2nd Edition disc playing. It sure would be nice to be able to consistently defeat the overall LED dimming in response to APL.

I was also trying to figure out the the film modes. I've read several different things about the differences between Auto1 and Auto2, which seem to be inconsistent. I also couldn't figure any way to get the PS3 to feed an interlaced signal to the TV, so I was unable to turn on either film mode for Blu-ray discs and test the results with the Spears & Munsil disc (either Blu-ray or DVD). Samsung doesn't provide much information about these settings (among other things).
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post #36 of 60 Old 01-04-2017, 07:25 AM
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In FFXV on my PS4 Pro I am having issues 'seeing' some things. Mainly when the flashlight is in use as the white just overpowers everything. It's the only game I am having this issue with. Would calibrating fix this issue? I read up on RTratings but when I use those settings nothing looks good. I'm assuming it's due to the recent updates? Sorry for the noobish post.
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post #37 of 60 Old 01-04-2017, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by KC-Technerd View Post
That's probably it then. The input was from an HDMI port, coming from a Sony PS3, but I'm pretty sure I was in 1080p/24 at the time I tried it. I had the Spears & Munsil 2nd Edition disc playing. It sure would be nice to be able to consistently defeat the overall LED dimming in response to APL.

I was also trying to figure out the the film modes. I've read several different things about the differences between Auto1 and Auto2, which seem to be inconsistent. I also couldn't figure any way to get the PS3 to feed an interlaced signal to the TV, so I was unable to turn on either film mode for Blu-ray discs and test the results with the Spears & Munsil disc (either Blu-ray or DVD). Samsung doesn't provide much information about these settings (among other things).
Auto1 deinterlaces the whole screen. Auto2 try's to detect if there is only a portion of the screen that needs to be deinterlaced (basically interlaced video in a non-interlaced border). Auto1 is correct for 99% of content.
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post #38 of 60 Old 01-12-2017, 02:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Quad5Ny View Post
Auto1 deinterlaces the whole screen. Auto2 try's to detect if there is only a portion of the screen that needs to be deinterlaced (basically interlaced video in a non-interlaced border). Auto1 is correct for 99% of content.
I found an explanation from Samsung for some older sets that suggested that. However it seemed to possibly suggest that AUTO1 was always applying inverse telecine regardless of whether 3:2 was detected in the source.
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post #39 of 60 Old 01-12-2017, 02:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Quad5Ny View Post
But the plus side of that is you gain pure 4:4:4 and RGB processing (it doesn't downscale internally to 4:2:2).
I tried to find this in the owner's thread, but haven't had any luck. What does the KS series do with a 4:2:2 subsampled source, and when it downsamples 4:4:4 to 4:2:2 internally, if that is any different? Is there any loss of high frequency detail or other oddities evident in chroma bursts? Does the KS8000 apply bicubic, bilinear, or nearest neighbor upsampling to 4:2:2?

I'm assuming that recorded 4K video is still chroma subsampled to 4:2:0, so at least in theory any difference in delivering 4:2:2 or 4:4:4 to the TV should still only be whether the TV or the device (UHD Blu-ray player, etc.) is using the better upsampling method from 4:2:2 to 4:4:4. However I have seen on 1080 displays that filtering of high frequency detail can occur when multiple conversions take place (4:4:4 to 4:2:2 to 4:4:4).

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post #40 of 60 Old 01-12-2017, 09:30 AM
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hey guys any tips on getting a better picture quality , i just bought the ks8000 65 inch and my cable quality looks bad blurry, very off. My 5 year old 50 inch looks better then this one and i know it shouldn't be like this. Any help would be very helpful.
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post #41 of 60 Old 01-12-2017, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by mig7979 View Post
hey guys any tips on getting a better picture quality , i just bought the ks8000 65 inch and my cable quality looks bad blurry, very off. My 5 year old 50 inch looks better then this one and i know it shouldn't be like this. Any help would be very helpful.
Yes, upgrade your input source. Your 50" was probably a 720p or 1080p, and upscaling a low resolution image required fewer rendered pixels. Now you have four times the the number of pixels (minimum, if compared to a 1080p tv) that it must render, stretched across an additional 70% of surface area.

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post #42 of 60 Old 01-12-2017, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by audacious nick View Post
Yes, upgrade your input source. Your 50" was probably a 720p or 1080p, and upscaling a low resolution image required fewer rendered pixels. Now you have four times the the number of pixels (minimum, if compared to a 1080p tv) that it must render, stretched across an additional 70% of surface area.
what you mean when you said upgrade your input source, sorry newbie in the house here. lol
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post #43 of 60 Old 01-12-2017, 02:22 PM
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what you mean when you said upgrade your input source, sorry newbie in the house here. lol
You need to call your cable company and upgrade your service to an HD service, or you need to find the HD channels.
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post #44 of 60 Old 01-15-2017, 08:20 AM
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Hi, does anyone have any calibration settings for standard or natural mode for watching everyday HD content so that i can compare, as i am not happy with my picture and the only calibration settings i can find is for movie mode which i do not like as i like a bright picture.
I have a 55ks9000 and watch with Sky Q.

Thanks
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post #45 of 60 Old 01-16-2017, 05:52 PM
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Hello. I am new to the forum and am having the same problem. I have AT&T Uverse and it looks like crap. 1080i signal. I have had AT&T out and the say everything is good on their end. Also bought a new HDMI cable. The folks at Best Buy were no help. They did recommend joining this forum. Any input would be great appreciated. Thank in advance.
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post #46 of 60 Old 01-17-2017, 11:21 PM
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Luminance headroom (above reference white) performance and contrast setting

Since real video often includes above white (luma values of 236-254) I always try to set the contrast not only to prevent clipping of these values, but to prevent color shifting with these luma values as a result of one of the subpixels (red, blue, green) clipping before the others. I had to set contrast to a setting of 75 in order to prevent the blue subpixels from clipping below the 254 luma value (resulting in peak whites shifting to yellow). I saw somewhere that someone noted setting the contrast low could affect gamma. Since I don't have a device to measure gamma on the set, I'm wondering if 75 is low enough to adversely affect the gamma.

If I noted it correctly, full clipping occurs below 254 if the contrast is set above 86.

I noticed that rtings.com used a contrast setting of 100 during their calibrations, obviously ignoring video luminance headroom. They also ignore luminance headroom in their "How to Calibrate Your TV" section.
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post #47 of 60 Old 01-28-2017, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by KC-Technerd View Post
...I had to set contrast to a setting of 75 in order to prevent the blue subpixels from clipping below the 254 luma value ...
In my case contrast at 84 was the point that I no longer observed added color to the grey bars on the AVS disc contrast slide in basic settings.

I have only had the set for a few days and have been struggling with a good balance of backlight and contrast that does not cause eyestrain in movie mode. I am not used to the level of whites that this set produces. I ran a very quick 2 point greyscale calibration with my ionepro with Calman Basic. I also checked color without adjusting primary or secondary colors. The gamma curve was fairly flat prior to calibration and improved even more with a quick one pass greyscale adjustment that yielded De's that were all below 1.5. All six color points were inside the Rec709 squares.

At first glance the 65KS8000 appears to have a lot of potential.
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post #48 of 60 Old 01-28-2017, 12:51 PM
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In my case contrast at 84 was the point that I no longer observed added color to the grey bars on the AVS disc contrast slide in basic settings.

I have only had the set for a few days and have been struggling with a good balance of backlight and contrast that does not cause eyestrain in movie mode. I am not used to the level of whites that this set produces. I ran a very quick 2 point greyscale calibration with my ionepro with Calman Basic. I also checked color without adjusting primary or secondary colors. The gamma curve was fairly flat prior to calibration and improved even more with a quick one pass greyscale adjustment that yielded De's that were all below 1.5. All six color points were inside the Rec709 squares.

At first glance the 65KS8000 appears to have a lot of potential.
Thanks for your feedback! Rather than just eliminating observable color shift in the upper super-white region, I went into the blue, green, and red only modes to make sure the contrast setting didn't result in clipping. Above 75, I was getting clipping on the AVS contrast pattern (gray-white) below the 254 level in the blue only mode. If had a reliable meter, I would use it to make sure that a 254 window remained at D65 as the preferred method (which I did in the past on an SXRD rear projection display which actually resulted in a slightly lower contrast setting than any of the other methods). Unfortunately, after that I found my Eye-One to have obviously drifted horribly out of calibration, so much so that I'm not sure it can be calibrated. I think I had used it twice in the 2 or 3 years before that happened. Since I'm not likely to use a meter more than once a year or so, I just can't justify buying a meter that I'm going to have to replace every 2 or 3 years, or have to have professionally calibrated every time before I use it, and is only accurate to a dE of 3 or so anyway. I also can't justify getting a $10,000 spectrophotometer to calibrate a $1500 TV (as much as I'd like to). Fortunately from other's calibration it appears the grayscale and primary dEs on KS8000 sets are likely to be less than 3 without the need for a spectrophotometer calibration, which is one of the reasons I found the KS8000 a preferable buy.

With the reduced contrast I took a semi-educated guess at setting the backlight to 6 for getting a 100 nit reference brightness for SDR images (based on rtings.com using a setting of 4 with a contrast setting of 100). The internet available to the set is no where speedy enough to support 4k streaming, so I haven't tested HDR yet, or made any settings for it. I'm looking for material to download to a USB drive where I might be able to test and set it.
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post #49 of 60 Old 01-28-2017, 08:39 PM
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With the reduced contrast I took a semi-educated guess at setting the backlight to 6 for getting a 100 nit reference brightness for SDR images
In the past I have generally settled on a level (using the old measurement) of 40 Foot-lambert for our viewing enviroment. On my 8000, a back light setting of 5, yields 39.6 Foot-lambert which equals 133.6 Nit according to an online conversion tool. To my eyes a backlight of 5 was too low and have been trying a level of 6. We view with a fairly bright light in the back of our room and that might be the reason we felt we needed the increase. In addition I have lowered the contrast a bit more to 80.

There are several Demos/Trailers that are 2 to 3 minutes in length at a site called demo-uhd3d that can be downloaded to USB. My internet speed is no scorcher either so I tried a couple just to see how the set would do.
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post #50 of 60 Old 01-28-2017, 10:03 PM
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In the past I have generally settled on a level (using the old measurement) of 40 Foot-lambert for our viewing enviroment. On my 8000, a back light setting of 5, yields 39.6 Foot-lambert which equals 133.6 Nit according to an online conversion tool. To my eyes a backlight of 5 was too low and have been trying a level of 6. We view with a fairly bright light in the back of our room and that might be the reason we felt we needed the increase. In addition I have lowered the contrast a bit more to 80.

There are several Demos/Trailers that are 2 to 3 minutes in length at a site called demo-uhd3d that can be downloaded to USB. My internet speed is no scorcher either so I tried a couple just to see how the set would do.
Thanks. Rtings.com determined a backlight setting of 4 to get as close to 100 nits as possible, but that is considering a contrast setting of 100. I figured 6 should be the approximate equivalent with the contrast set to 75 (with possibly erring a little brighter). The TV is in a completely light controlled room, so I figure that 100 nits, or 30 fL is good. Of course the correct backlight setting to get that will change with the contrast setting. Based on your info of 113.6 nits with backlight of 5 and contrast of 84, a backlight of 5 would probably be sufficient for 100 nits with the contrast at 75. I wish I had a good meter to measure it with.

Thanks for the info on the downloadable demos and trailers. I'll have to check those out.

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post #51 of 60 Old 02-11-2017, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Bama29 View Post
In my case contrast at 84 was the point that I no longer observed added color to the grey bars on the AVS disc contrast slide in basic settings.

I have only had the set for a few days and have been struggling with a good balance of backlight and contrast that does not cause eyestrain in movie mode. I am not used to the level of whites that this set produces. I ran a very quick 2 point greyscale calibration with my ionepro with Calman Basic. I also checked color without adjusting primary or secondary colors. The gamma curve was fairly flat prior to calibration and improved even more with a quick one pass greyscale adjustment that yielded De's that were all below 1.5. All six color points were inside the Rec709 squares.

At first glance the 65KS8000 appears to have a lot of potential.
I used the AVS-HD calibration video files to adjust my tv with just my eyeballs. AVS HD 709 - Blu-ray & MP4 Calibration I used the 4 color clipping video to adjust contrast. It adjusted to 84 on my 65". Some color clipping would not adjust out. I was surprised to see you got the same contrast value and using 254 as the set point. Using white clipping video I get 92 for contrast.
I wonder if messing with color controls will effect the color clipping? Im just a home theater viewer not a pro Calibrator.
I found I like using the HDR+ mode.
backlight 18 I like bright.
brightness 42 black clipping video adjusted to 45 but when watching movies it looks washed out at 45.
contrast 84
sharpness 20
auto motion
blur 10
judder 5. this setting reduces the soap opera effect but still noticable on some content compared to auto.
smart led low
dynamic contrast medium
colortemp warm 1 my preference.
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post #52 of 60 Old 03-01-2017, 02:58 PM
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First of all i really thank egandt because his settings were i think very close to my liking.
I used the settings from egandt (2nd post) and although i really really liked the colors, i found out that some areas in dark scenes tend to be seen really dark (many of the details are lost)..
(had to use brightness close to 40 - 43)

(i put smartled to off cause i really dont like the dimming effect that causes - some times - on the picture)

will now try the proposed sodaboy581 settings ..

also tried the rtings settings once but i found the image really dull...


by the way all the proposed settings are for 16-235 or for 0-255 ? (for my HTPC)..

Guys thank you all for your great contributions...
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post #53 of 60 Old 03-12-2017, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by audacious nick View Post
You need to call your cable company and upgrade your service to an HD service, or you need to find the HD channels.
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Originally Posted by vinmac17 View Post
Hello. I am new to the forum and am having the same problem. I have AT&T Uverse and it looks like crap. 1080i signal. I have had AT&T out and the say everything is good on their end. Also bought a new HDMI cable. The folks at Best Buy were no help. They did recommend joining this forum. Any input would be great appreciated. Thank in advance.
I have THE UN65KS8000. I have the same problem as Vinmac17 has. I believe we all do have HD content available on our cable tv but for some reason, it has (hard to explain) like lag/motion problem/not clear on an HD tv channel. For example, watching CW:supernatural; when characters turn their head or walks by, it is not smooth/clear. It looks like it has weird lag. I have played around with so many settings, turned on and off the auto motion thing and customized as well but nothing fixed it. I got a very good HDMI cable as well. Do you think this is because of the tv it's self or the cable company's receiver is just not good, even it has 200+ HD channels? This is just frustrating.
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post #54 of 60 Old 03-13-2017, 08:53 AM
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I have THE UN65KS8000. I have the same problem as Vinmac17 has. I believe we all do have HD content available on our cable tv but for some reason, it has (hard to explain) like lag/motion problem/not clear on an HD tv channel. For example, watching CW:supernatural; when characters turn their head or walks by, it is not smooth/clear. It looks like it has weird lag. I have played around with so many settings, turned on and off the auto motion thing and customized as well but nothing fixed it. I got a very good HDMI cable as well. Do you think this is because of the tv it's self or the cable company's receiver is just not good, even it has 200+ HD channels? This is just frustrating.
Well, you need to do further testing and see if this problem exists when you play scenes on the Amazon or Netflix app. If it does, I have yet to have a panel that displays any of these characteristics, so I would say it might be a faulty TV and you're better off exchanging it.

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post #55 of 60 Old 03-19-2017, 01:59 PM
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AAAAAAAAAAGH...

as i mentioned in my previous post i didnt like the black level .... it was tooooo black ...

checking again the settings i noticed HDMI Black: AUTOMATIC..

when i set it to HDMI BLACK: NORMAL ...

EVERYTHING IS REALLY GREAT NOW
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post #56 of 60 Old 04-25-2017, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by chas good View Post
I used the AVS-HD calibration video files to adjust my tv with just my eyeballs. AVS HD 709 - Blu-ray & MP4 Calibration I used the 4 color clipping video to adjust contrast. It adjusted to 84 on my 65". Some color clipping would not adjust out. I was surprised to see you got the same contrast value and using 254 as the set point. Using white clipping video I get 92 for contrast.
I wonder if messing with color controls will effect the color clipping? Im just a home theater viewer not a pro Calibrator.
I found I like using the HDR+ mode.
backlight 18 I like bright.
brightness 42 black clipping video adjusted to 45 but when watching movies it looks washed out at 45.
contrast 84
sharpness 20
auto motion
blur 10
judder 5. this setting reduces the soap opera effect but still noticable on some content compared to auto.
smart led low
dynamic contrast medium
colortemp warm 1 my preference.
2 months later I use the same settings except brightness and smart led. I found a brightness setting of 40 just looks better than 42. Smart led set to high now mainly for hdr. Not that there is that much hdr content.
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post #57 of 60 Old 04-25-2017, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by KC-Technerd View Post
Is there any way to keep the backlight from dimming with low average picture levels? I've noticed that it dims slightly when switching between a white bordered pluge and pluge with a fully black background. The backlight apparently goes all the way off when the screen is entirely black. Smart LED, Eco Sensor, and Energy Saving Mode are all turned off. Can the "Min. Backlight" setting under "Eco Sensor" be used to prevent the dimming (perhaps by setting it to the same setting as the backlight)?
Hi! Just bought a KS7000 (euro model of the KS8000) and i ran into the same situation. Brightness at 45 makes the backlight turn off when a black background is being displayed. All eco settings are off. I thought of using the min backlight of the eco sensor at the same level of my backlight setting, just as you, but it doesn't work. It still goes off.
Have you found a fix for this that doesn't involve increasing brightness?

Cheers!
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post #58 of 60 Old 04-29-2017, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notadrummer View Post
Hi! Just bought a KS7000 (euro model of the KS8000) and i ran into the same situation. Brightness at 45 makes the backlight turn off when a black background is being displayed. All eco settings are off. I thought of using the min backlight of the eco sensor at the same level of my backlight setting, just as you, but it doesn't work. It still goes off.
Have you found a fix for this that doesn't involve increasing brightness?

Cheers!
No. I haven't found any way around this. The backlight dims during low average picture level (APL) and goes completely dark during a blank, black screen. I'm hoping that someone will eventually find a fix for this. I far prefer overall brightness and backlighting to remain constant rather than varying them to create a false impression of contrast. The audio equivalent would be varying the volume control in response to average sound level (turning it up during loud passages and down during quiet passages) in order to create the impression of increased dynamic range.
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post #59 of 60 Old Today, 09:41 AM
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I finally managed to calibrate the Samsung KS8000 (KS7000 EU) to the best settings for HD and HDR.
Especially HDR is really difficult to calibrate due the CE dimming of the Samsung panel. Also you should turn on SmartLED to High when using HDR.

My Tools:
Calman Enthusiast 5.7.2
X-Rite i1Display Pro
Spectracal Mobileforge pattern generator on a Apple TV4 outputting YCbCr 4:4:4
HDfury Intergal 4k injecting HDR patterns

Here are my settings:

HD:
D65 Rec.709 - BT1886
Window: APL18

TV Settings
Setting Movie
Backlight 20
Brightness 45
Contrast 85
Sharpness 0
Color 50
Tint 50/50
Color Warm2
Gamma 0
2 Point WB
R-offset -6
G-offset 0
B-offset -6
R-gain -1
G-gain -6
B-gain 0
10 Point WB
10 -3/3/-50
20 -2/8/-2
30 -8/-14-13
40 -7/-3/-8
50 -3/5/-3
60 -5/1/-8
70 -6/0/-9
80 -4/-1/-6
90 1/0/-3
100 0/0/0
Colors
Red 32/9/2
Green 25/42/8
Blue 0/7/39
Yellow 51/47/8
Cyan 24/45/48
Magenta 27/12/40

-------

HDR:
D65 BT.2020 HDR - ST 2048 HDR
Window: 10%

TV Settings
Setting Movie
SmartLED - High
Backlight 20
Brightness 45
Contrast 93
Sharpness 0
Color 50
Tint 50/50
Color warm2
Gamma 0
2 Point WB
R-offset -3
G-offset -4
B-offset -6
R-gain 0
G-gain -7
B-gain -5
10 Point WB - Turned Off
Colors
Red 63/8/2
Green 0/50/4
Blue 11/8/68
Yellow 72/71/9
Cyan 4/61/57
Magenta 64/19/69

Depending on your taste, I turned on dynamic contrast in HDR mode to Low.
Let me know what you think of it!
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post #60 of 60 Old Today, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KC-Technerd View Post
No. I haven't found any way around this. The backlight dims during low average picture level (APL) and goes completely dark during a blank, black screen. I'm hoping that someone will eventually find a fix for this. I far prefer overall brightness and backlighting to remain constant rather than varying them to create a false impression of contrast. The audio equivalent would be varying the volume control in response to average sound level (turning it up during loud passages and down during quiet passages) in order to create the impression of increased dynamic range.
Off-topic, but that's exactly what dBX "compander" (COMpressor/exPANDER) units did back in the days of analog audio, and the audio "restorer" feature in some AVRs and pre-pros does today for compressed digital audio today...

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