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post #61 of 137 Old 06-30-2017, 04:06 PM
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The guys here using HD Fury to inject HDR patterns, which patterns are you guys using?
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post #62 of 137 Old 06-30-2017, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by KC-Technerd View Post
No. I haven't found any way around this. The backlight dims during low average picture level (APL) and goes completely dark during a blank, black screen. I'm hoping that someone will eventually find a fix for this. I far prefer overall brightness and backlighting to remain constant rather than varying them to create a false impression of contrast. The audio equivalent would be varying the volume control in response to average sound level (turning it up during loud passages and down during quiet passages) in order to create the impression of increased dynamic range.
you can turn local dimming off from advanced service menu, i tried it but it locks the backlight to a specific level and you cant change it. really not helpful

the only way to disable it i found is using PC mode input but you need a 60hz signal for it which cable and blu rays wont give
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post #63 of 137 Old 07-02-2017, 03:51 AM
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Originally Posted by rotarydude View Post
The guys here using HD Fury to inject HDR patterns, which patterns are you guys using?
Hi, if you mean the size then 10-11% windows will be ok.

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post #64 of 137 Old 07-02-2017, 05:09 AM
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just to let people know, i found a way to disable ths dimming! just had to put the PWM_MOVIE_INI to 100 in the 2D_Subsettings
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post #65 of 137 Old 07-05-2017, 11:52 AM
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Anyone know what is the reason why leaving the adjustment menu on screen affect the WB calibration so much, even though the adjustment menu isn't in the target window on these display?
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post #66 of 137 Old 07-09-2017, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by thegam3 View Post
just to let people know, i found a way to disable ths dimming! just had to put the PWM_MOVIE_INI to 100 in the 2D_Subsettings
How do you even do that?
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post #67 of 137 Old 07-11-2017, 03:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Juub View Post
How do you even do that?
While TV is off on HDMI 1 port:

- Click in a sequence, Info->Settings->Mute->Power to enter service menu
- click on SVC
- click on Other Option
- click on 'CAL Data restore' (this will throw an error about USB, just click OK. this is done to reveal the 'Advanced' option)
- once finished click return until you are back at the main screen
- navigate down to 'Advanced', click 0 four times (this only seems to work when in HDMI1, others just closes the service menu)
- this should reveal extra options
- click on Picture_2D
- click on SubSetting
- then enter these values:
'PWM Max' = 100
'PWM_INI_2D' = 15
'PWM_MOVIE_INI' = 100 (only one i had to change)
'PWM Mid' = 5
'PWM Min' = 0
- once done turn off TV
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post #68 of 137 Old 07-14-2017, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegam3 View Post
While TV is off on HDMI 1 port:

- Click in a sequence, Info->Settings->Mute->Power to enter service menu
- click on SVC
- click on Other Option
- click on 'CAL Data restore' (this will throw an error about USB, just click OK. this is done to reveal the 'Advanced' option)
- once finished click return until you are back at the main screen
- navigate down to 'Advanced', click 0 four times (this only seems to work when in HDMI1, others just closes the service menu)
- this should reveal extra options
- click on Picture_2D
- click on SubSetting
- then enter these values:
'PWM Max' = 100
'PWM_INI_2D' = 15
'PWM_MOVIE_INI' = 100 (only one i had to change)
'PWM Mid' = 5
'PWM Min' = 0
- once done turn off TV
Can you confirm if this dimming stops even when not using movie mode? Does the dimming also stop when you're using the Standard preset? I'm asking this because of the option's name, which mentions "pwm MOVIE ini". Also, do you remember the value that option had before you changed it to 100?
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post #69 of 137 Old 07-14-2017, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by notadrummer View Post
Can you confirm if this dimming stops even when not using movie mode? Does the dimming also stop when you're using the Standard preset? I'm asking this because of the option's name, which mentions "pwm MOVIE ini". Also, do you remember the value that option had before you changed it to 100?
yes it turned off the dimming on everything, including game mode and stuff. it now only dims on FULL black screen only but thats not distracting at all

the default value was 30 on mine
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post #70 of 137 Old 07-16-2017, 05:13 AM
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Originally Posted by thegam3 View Post
yes it turned off the dimming on everything, including game mode and stuff. it now only dims on FULL black screen only but thats not distracting at all

the default value was 30 on mine
That's interesting. I changed the PWM MIN option from 0 to 5 (same value as the PWM MID) and now my tv doesn't dim as much in darker scenes. I can tell by watching the intro of star trek the next generation.

Since you only changed the PWM_MOVIE_INI setting from 30 to 100, and left the PWM MID and MIN with the default settings of 5 and 0, respectively, the tv will dim the picture on black scenes.

These settings tell the tv how much current is sent to the LEDS according to what's on screen.
Maybe having PWM_MOVIE_INI at 100 is not the best setting to disable the dimming, since you're always sending the maximum current allowed to your LEDs. This might result in a shorter lifespan of your TV.
However i think i have an alternative.
What if you set PWM_MOVIE_INI to its original value of 30, but also alter the PWM MID and PWM MIN to 30?. This way you're telling the tv not to alter the current sent to the LEDs on darker than normal scenes, maintaining the same brightness, but you're also not driving the LEDs at maximum current all the time.

Cheers!
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post #71 of 137 Old 07-17-2017, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by rotarydude View Post
Anyone know what is the reason why leaving the adjustment menu on screen affect the WB calibration so much, even though the adjustment menu isn't in the target window on these display?
This is quite common and nothing new, in fact. On our old Mitsubishi WT-46807 CRT RPTV, entering the service menu to make adjustments bumped contrast up a LOT, so you had to measure, enter the SM and adjust, exit SM, remeasure, etc. You don't know how lucky we are to have white balance adjustments in easily-accessible user controls. But for these sets, being bottom edge lit, placing the lighter adjustment menus under the target windows has an effect on the overall luminance of each vertical column used to produce the menus even though only a small section is used.
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post #72 of 137 Old 07-19-2017, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by thegam3 View Post
just to let people know, i found a way to disable ths dimming! just had to put the PWM_MOVIE_INI to 100 in the 2D_Subsettings
Am amazed you were able to fix this! I REALLY want to try this but am terrified of breaking the tv. Lol Can this have any chance at all of screening anything up and making the tv not work? I'm new to stuff like this.. and read never to go into the settings like this without serious risk. If it should make the tv not work anymore or something is there some sort of safety reset button that will magically fix it back to working again?
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post #73 of 137 Old 07-21-2017, 04:53 AM
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Am amazed you were able to fix this! I REALLY want to try this but am terrified of breaking the tv. Lol Can this have any chance at all of screening anything up and making the tv not work? I'm new to stuff like this.. and read never to go into the settings like this without serious risk. If it should make the tv not work anymore or something is there some sort of safety reset button that will magically fix it back to working again?
Well thats something you need to decide, but if you follow my instructions it should not be a problem but if you get curious and be like "what happens if i change this" then you are risking damage to the TV. I guess it depends how much the dimming annoys you, for me it was worth risking changing some settings cause i couldnt stand it
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post #74 of 137 Old 07-21-2017, 12:22 PM
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Well thats something you need to decide, but if you follow my instructions it should not be a problem but if you get curious and be like "what happens if i change this" then you are risking damage to the TV. I guess it depends how much the dimming annoys you, for me it was worth risking changing some settings cause i couldnt stand it
Oh no I would definitely only be following your exact instrusticions to change only this. So if I follow that then everything on the tv will still work just fine for sure? It's just definitely not worth risking the tv not functioning anymore at all. That's my only concern.
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post #75 of 137 Old 07-27-2017, 01:15 PM
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you can turn local dimming off from advanced service menu, i tried it but it locks the backlight to a specific level and you cant change it. really not helpful

the only way to disable it i found is using PC mode input but you need a 60hz signal for it which cable and blu rays wont give
Just making sure I'm understanding correctly, so, outside of PC mode through turning local dimming off in the advanced service menu it locks the backlight? To what level is it locked? If I'm understanding correctly.. do you think backlight is better than local dimming off for HDR? I'm thinking it might be..
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post #76 of 137 Old 09-06-2017, 10:55 AM
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So after MANY hours of getting a better result on creating a better 3DLUT for my KS8000. Here it is... but I am still baffled why I am still getting an error of DeltaE 2 for a color patch "2D"

Anyone else using a 3DLUT look up table on their KS8000 that has better results???

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post #77 of 137 Old 09-06-2017, 02:40 PM
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2D appears to be a very slightly greenish light gray. Take a look at the comparison bar for that color in the Color Checker post-cal verification sheet after loading the results for that calibration. The bar will display the target color next to the measured color. Depending on the color a dE of 2 may or may not be visible. Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about it.

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post #78 of 137 Old 09-06-2017, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Rolls-Royce View Post
2D appears to be a very slightly greenish light gray. Take a look at the comparison bar for that color in the Color Checker post-cal verification sheet after loading the results for that calibration. The bar will display the target color next to the measured color. Depending on the color a dE of 2 may or may not be visible. Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about it.
It's a taddddd lighter... but you seriously have to stare at it to see the difference... Just thought that even with the LUT I wouldn't get a DeltaE of 2. But the picture looks great... so I just wanted to see if this is something with the KS8000 or I f'd up somewhere...
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post #79 of 137 Old 09-06-2017, 02:54 PM
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You can also look at the numbers that go along with that comparison bar. IIRC, "Y" (luminance) changes its weighting in dE 2000 as things get darker or brighter for perceptual reasons. So it could be very small differences in color, or luminance, or both.

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post #80 of 137 Old 09-07-2017, 02:38 AM
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Just a newbie question.
Can you guys share how to set up calman for a correct ks8000 calibration? APL or normal Windows? 18% or 10%? 75% o 100% saturation?

Thank you
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post #81 of 137 Old 09-07-2017, 05:00 AM
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Just a newbie question.
Can you guys share how to set up calman for a correct ks8000 calibration? APL or normal Windows? 18% or 10%? 75% o 100% saturation?

Thank you
I use 10% windows. If you are doing SDR (Rec 709) calibration, you can use 100% saturation, since the KS8000 can hit that mark standing on its head. HDR is another matter since no current consumer display can achieve 100% of Rec 2020.

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post #82 of 137 Old 09-07-2017, 05:16 AM
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I use 10% windows. If you are doing SDR (Rec 709) calibration, you can use 100% saturation, since the KS8000 can hit that mark standing on its head. HDR is another matter since no current consumer display can achieve 100% of Rec 2020.
Thank you Rolls-Royce
So, just 10% window and no APL?
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post #83 of 137 Old 09-07-2017, 05:23 AM
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Thank you Rolls-Royce
So, just 10% window and no APL?
I try to stay close to 100 nits for 100% White in SDR, so APL levels don't really seem to matter. I've used both types of patterns, but generally stick with the default type in the workflow I'm using.

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post #84 of 137 Old 09-07-2017, 06:09 AM
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I try to stay close to 100 nits for 100% White in SDR, so APL levels don't really seem to matter. I've used both types of patterns, but generally stick with the default type in the workflow I'm using.
I want to do my calibration at 120 nits. And what about the LCD type, is LCD Green Blue Led ok?
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post #85 of 137 Old 09-07-2017, 06:17 AM
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I want to do my calibration at 120 nits. And what about the LCD type, is LCD Green Blue Led ok?
120 nits is fine. IIRC, these are White LEDs. If you're using an I1D3 (I1 Display Pro), and you aren't profiling it to a spectro, I recommend using the "Raw" or "XYZ" setting (can't remember offhand what it's called in CalMAN). That way, the meter is passing its raw data to the software rather than filtering it through a possibly incorrect internal profile first. As discussed in other threads here, X-Rite has installed internal profiles targeted to computer and color grading monitors. These displays use different LED types from consumer home theater displays, so using the internal profiles could lead to poor results.
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post #86 of 137 Old 09-07-2017, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Rolls-Royce View Post
120 nits is fine. IIRC, these are White LEDs. If you're using an I1D3 (I1 Display Pro), and you aren't profiling it to a spectro, I recommend using the "Raw" or "XYZ" setting (can't remember offhand what it's called in CalMAN). That way, the meter is passing its raw data to the software rather than filtering it through a possibly incorrect internal profile first. As discussed in other threads here, X-Rite has installed internal profiles targeted to computer and color grading monitors. These displays use different LED types from consumer home theater displays, so using the internal profiles could lead to poor results.
awesome. i will give a check this evening. thank you very much.
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post #87 of 137 Old 09-07-2017, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Rolls-Royce View Post
120 nits is fine. IIRC, these are White LEDs. If you're using an I1D3 (I1 Display Pro), and you aren't profiling it to a spectro, I recommend using the "Raw" or "XYZ" setting (can't remember offhand what it's called in CalMAN). That way, the meter is passing its raw data to the software rather than filtering it through a possibly incorrect internal profile first. As discussed in other threads here, X-Rite has installed internal profiles targeted to computer and color grading monitors. These displays use different LED types from consumer home theater displays, so using the internal profiles could lead to poor results.
Are you sure that ks8000 has a white led? i read somewhere that the quantum dot panels don't need white led.
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post #88 of 137 Old 09-07-2017, 09:44 AM
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Are you sure that ks8000 has a white led? i read somewhere that the quantum dot panels don't need white led.
You may want to contact SpectraCAL. They recently released separate profiles for 2016 and 2017 Samsung quantum dot models for their C6 meters. If a generic X-Rite RGBLED profile was good enough, they might not have done so.

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post #89 of 137 Old 09-07-2017, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by MrRobotoPlus View Post
Are you sure that ks8000 has a white led? i read somewhere that the quantum dot panels don't need white led.


You may want to contact SpectraCAL. They recently released separate profiles for 2016 and 2017 Samsung quantum dot models for their C6 meters. If a generic X-Rite RGBLED profile was good enough, they might not have done so.
if you bought Calman as a complete package with their C6 meter.... if you have an OEM profiler version those profile doesn't apply.
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post #90 of 137 Old 09-07-2017, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Rolls-Royce View Post
You may want to contact SpectraCAL. They recently released separate profiles for 2016 and 2017 Samsung quantum dot models for their C6 meters. If a generic X-Rite RGBLED profile was good enough, they might not have done so.
Just took a look at their forum and I've found this on the KS thread

Quote:
From what I understand of the i1D3 I would definitely use a spectro.

As for the display type, use 'LCD (LED Blue Green)'.

Just my 2 cents. Hope it helps.
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