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post #1 of 60 Old 08-06-2016, 12:36 PM - Thread Starter
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samsung ks8000 Calibration

There is no thread just for calibration of the KS8000 I assume it would also work for the KS9000 series as well. Most of what is found in the owners thread are not professional and metered but are basically what I thought looked best, which is not very helpful.
My hope is that others that have actually used a meter and software to calibrate will also add to this.

First I suggest anyone looking to calibrate this TV looks first at:
http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/ks8000/settings

Second, my findings after spending many days spent calibrating this TV. Please note I do this for fun and my own benefit, I'm a Software Engineer by day.

My Tools:
  • Calman Enthusiast 5.70a
  • SpectraCal C6
  • CalPC3 pattern generator or madvr 0.93 pattern generator
    • Since these 2 come up with different results, I'm going with madvr as it supports 3D LUT's.
  • HD Fury Intergal
    • Used to fack teh HTPC to always see a TV as on
    • Used to inject the HDR signal as needed for Calman HDR10 work flow.
  • PC outputing 4Kp30 at 4:2:2 10 bit
    • NVidia GTX 1070

General findings for NON HDR material:
  • Always close the menu for WB calibration as it makes a big difference, it makes little to no difference for colors/saturations however (go figure).
  • The TV even on Warm2 is very close to 7K and getting it down to 6500 is difficult, and results is the lower levels (under 30%, being to blue). Calibrating to 7000K is much easier, but obviously not preferred, however if you are getting started begin with 7000, to see how the functions work, then re-calibrate at 6500.
  • 2 Point WB, assume that 80% needs to be low on blue so that 100 and 109% are decent on blue (it is very hard to fix 90%+ so ensure that 100% and 109% is decent before moving to 10 point WB.
  • 10 point White Balance is not exact, in fact 100% is closer to 109% white, so the mapping is as follows, it may change some based on your brightness and Contrast, however normally the following mapping is correct:
    • TV | Calman
    • 10/10 and 20
    • 20/30
    • 30/40
    • 40/50
    • 50/60
    • 60/70
    • 70/80
    • 80/90
    • 90/90 and 100
    • 100/109 (or often nothing at all).
  • If you have only Basic or Advanced, workflows in Calman, AKA are only going about 10 point WB and Primaries (RBG/CYM) then you will find that calibration is straight forward, and can be almost exact.
    • My Panel can not get exact to reference Blue for rec.709 of of teh box in Custom, it is always slightly to red..
    • I can get 99.7% coverage of REC.709 as a result.
  • Saturation/Luminance are awful if you calibrate for Primaries (be aware), delta's can be over 5 and often approach 7 in such cases.
    • To improve Saturation, set the color at between 55 and 60, I'd suggest starting with 55.
  • If tuning for Saturation/Luminance and Color it is possible to get close to a Delta of 3 for everything, Red and Magenta are furthest off. Colors should all be below a delta of 3, however a few will exceed 3 such as towards red, they should still be well under 5 however.
  • If you use madvr and a 3D LUT, you can get the errors to under 1, for the most part.
  • Gamma tracking is not as great as I expected based on reviews, you can track the gamma closely to 2.4 or 2.25 (those are the only values that track reasonable well from what I've tested). However they are always going to be non-linear with < 20 too dark and > 90 to bright that is simply how it tracks, the difference may be under .1 is some cases but it is always there.
    • I find that Gamma, needs to normally be 1 or 2, depending on teh settings.
  • Contrast Ratios, for the Panel are between 2000 and 4000 with every enhancement disabled!
    • I've found that brightness has to be between 35 and 40 and contract should be between 90 and 95 for most calibrations.
    • the Contrast does not matter much so long as it is above 90, but the brightness really needs to be down around 35 to get a good black.




General findings for HDR material:
First off this TV is not all close to standards for HDR10, in fact I'd say that it should not even be listed as HDR10 compatible with deltas above 10 in many areas. Second, I did not buy it for HDR so I'm ok, not happy but OK with that.
  • Backlight need to be lower than 20, say 15 to 18 range.
  • Brightness needs to be higher between 50 and 55 to eliminate a black crunch (even then 0% is lost, only .5+% is decent, but this is the case for any settings of brightness.
  • Contrast needs to be lower around the 70 mark to get to100% white with lose of detail, but 100+% is always lost no matter what I did. Setting this lower breaks the gamma curve so you have a trade off very bad gamma between 40 and 80 or clipping white, there is no good answer. Best to leave at 100%
  • Smart LED needs to remain on High
  • Dynamic Contrast need to be Medium
  • 10 point WB does not do anything at all, however 2 point works great
    • Rather than 30 and 80 for WB, I'd suggest 40/90 as 30/80 tended to add to much red on the Offset and to much Blue on the Gain
  • Leaving the Color Space as Auto, may be your best bet, as native performed worst, custom get close except for green.


Second post will be my current settings (they tend to change as I re-calibrate the display). The Third will be HDR
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ERIC

Last edited by egandt; 08-07-2016 at 12:54 PM.
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post #2 of 60 Old 08-06-2016, 12:47 PM - Thread Starter
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My Current Settings for non-HDR:

Headings 4K30HZ 4:2:2 10 bit HDMI1
Mesured settings
white point D65 RED.709
Gamma Target 2.3
Color saturation used 100%
Peak Lum. 96.15
Contrast Ratio 4175
REC.709 Coverage 99.50%
TV Settings
setting movie
backlight 5
brightness 34
contrast 94
color 50
tint 50/50
color warm2
gamma 2
2 Point WB
r-offset 0
G-offset 2
b-offset 0
r-gain 8
g-gain -1
b-gain -5
10 Point WB
10 -8/-50/17
20 3/3/-22
30 -2/-10/-2
40 -1/0/5
50 -2/-1/3
60 1/0/4
70 -1/0/10
80 -2/1/7
90 1/0/7
100 0/0/0
Colors
Red 20/5/2
Green 22/46/5
Blue 0/0/31
Yellow 49/48/5
Cyan 22/44/50
Magenta 19/7/29

Note: As I stated above the 10 or 20% gray is always way off for some reason on this TV, no way to fix it if you want 30%+ to be decent, in this case using these settings the issues is seen at under 15%.

Results with and without a 3D LUT active attached. I normally use the 3D LUT for viewing.
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Current HTPC (of the moment):
i7 7700K (at 4.9GHZ),32GB RAM
GTX 1080 TI (at 2.085Ghz)
Samsung 960Evo and Adaptec 6805T RAID6 (11.3TB)

ERIC
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post #3 of 60 Old 08-06-2016, 01:10 PM - Thread Starter
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My Current Settings for HDR:

HDR is a work in progress, and not one I'm impressed with, sure if you do not mind losings all detail over 75% white you can get ok results, but not something I'd consider acceptable. I've seen many say this is a good-to-great HDR TV, as far as I'm concerned it should not be listed as HDR from what I'm seeing. That said here is what I'm using for HDR.

Pre calibration:
  • It is a mess, scary mess even out, of the box.

Settings:
  • Headings 4K30HZ 4:2:2 10 bit HDMI3 HDR
    Mesured settings
    white point D65 Rec.2020
    Gamma Target ST2084
    Color saturation used 50%
    Peak Lum.
    Contrast Ratio
    REC.709 Coverage
    TV Settings
    setting movies
    backlight 20
    brightness 45
    contrast 100
    color 60
    tint 50/50
    color warm2
    gamma -3
    Smart LED High
    Dynamic Contrast medium
    2 Point WB
    r-offset 3
    G-offset -3
    b-offset -6
    r-gain 11
    g-gain -1
    b-gain -7
    10 Point WB
    10 0/0/0
    20 0/0/0
    30 0/0/0
    40 0/0/0
    50 0/0/0
    60 0/0/0
    70 0/0/0
    80 0/0/0
    90 0/0/0
    100 0/0/0
    Colors
    Red 97/4/13
    Green 0/100/8
    Blue 6/15/75
    Yellow 93/95/13
    Cyan 0/92/96
    Magenta 98/20/92


In progress playing with settings:

  • First enabling Dynamic BackLight on HDR make a huge improvement
  • Second issue is Contract:
    • Problem is anything over 75% white is clipped
    • Black is Fine
    • Reducing the Contrast to 73 fixes the white clipping, but destroys the Gamma curve
    • Using Contrast of 93, clipping at 80% but if I go any lower the Gamma curve falls apart.
  • Changing the Gamma, while leaving all defaults (20/45/100) and Dynamic Contrast High
    • shows that Gamma = 1 is worse
    • shows that Gamma = -1 is better
    • shows that Gamma = -2 is better still
    • shows that Gamma = -3 is better even still
    • Using a Gamma of -3 for HDR content.
  • Dynamic Contrast
    • Default is Off, setting to High balanced off the graph center, medium is even better.
    • Using Medium for HDR

Post Calibration:
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ERIC

Last edited by egandt; 08-07-2016 at 04:18 PM.
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post #4 of 60 Old 08-08-2016, 04:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by egandt View Post
  • The TV even on Warm2 is very close to 7K and getting it down to 6500 is difficult, and results is the lower levels (under 30%, being to blue). Calibrating to 7000K is much easier, but obviously not preferred, however if you are getting started begin with 7000, to see how the functions work, then re-calibrate at 6500.
  • 2 Point WB, assume that 80% needs to be low on blue so that 100 and 109% are decent on
You could try starting from Warm 1 instead of Warm 2. Warm 1 might be closer to D65.
The general rule for 2pt white balance when you have 10pt white balance controls is to do 100%/30%. 80/30 is for 2pt white balance controls only. It's always best to measure to see how the other points in the grey scale get distributed look for the lowest error across the entire grey scale.

Last edited by hungro; 08-08-2016 at 02:11 PM.
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post #5 of 60 Old 08-08-2016, 02:17 PM
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[QUOTE=egandt;45865865]
  • 10 point White Balance is not exact, in fact 100% is closer to 109% white, so the mapping is as follows, it may change some based on your brightness and Contrast, however normally the following mapping is correct:
    • TV | Calman
    • 10/10 and 20
    • 20/30
    • 30/40
    • 40/50
    • 50/60
    • 60/70
    • 70/80
    • 80/90
    • 90/90 and 100
    • 100/109 (or often nothing at all).

    This could be something to do with your contrast setting, displacement of the 10pt controls can be caused by having your Contrast too low, keep it in the 90's for Samsung.

Last edited by hungro; 08-08-2016 at 02:21 PM.
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post #6 of 60 Old 08-08-2016, 02:21 PM - Thread Starter
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[quote=hungro;45910409]
Quote:
Originally Posted by egandt View Post
  • 10 point White Balance is not exact, in fact 100% is closer to 109% white, so the mapping is as follows, it may change some based on your brightness and Contrast, however normally the following mapping is correct:
    • TV | Calman
    • 10/10 and 20
    • 20/30
    • 30/40
    • 40/50
    • 50/60
    • 60/70
    • 70/80
    • 80/90
    • 90/90 and 100
    • 100/109 (or often nothing at all).

    This could be something to do with your contrast setting, displacement of the 10pt controls can be caused by having your Contrast too low , upper, 90's for Samsung is recommended.
Yes, however whether the contrast is 90, 94 or 100 the 10 point is always off by at least one and always skips at least on step 930 or 40%). Normally I find a contrast between 90 and 100 best, usually for none HDR 94-96 and 100 for HDR.

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post #7 of 60 Old 08-08-2016, 02:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Bonus Calibration, for DCI-P3. As I have some content that needs this. I then create a LUT for REC.709, DCI-P3 and others that fall within this space. Of limited use to most people, but figured I'd include it:

Note we only get about 90% of the the DCI-P3 space, with the edge between red and green being lost, blue is dead on, as are cyan and Magenta.

Lastly this is reasonable bright as when using DCI-P3 content I'm normally in a well lite room.

Headings 4K30HZ 4:2:2 10 bit HDMI3
Measured settings
white point D65 DCI-P3
Gamma Target 2.24
Color saturation used 100%
Peak Lum. 182.49
Contrast Ratio 2825
REC.709 Coverage 100+%
DCI-P3 Coverage 89.30%
Rec.2020 Coverage NA
TV Settings
setting movie
backlight 9
brightness 34
contrast 96
color 60
tint 50/50
color warm2
gamma 2
Smart LED low
Dynamic Contrast off
2 Point WB
r-offset -3
G-offset 0
b-offset 0
r-gain 7
g-gain -2
b-gain -6
10 Point WB
10 -2/-15/-28
20 -11/-16/-23
30 -1/-6/-4
40 0/0/3
50 -1/0/2
60 -1/-3/3
70 -2/-2/6
80 -2/0/4
90 0/0/-1
100 9/0/-13
Colors
Red 26/3/0
Green 8/46/0
Blue 0/1/24
Yellow 49/49/0
Cyan 3/42/47
Magenta 24/4/27


Thanks,
ERIC

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I see now that you have a PC in the mix. Do you have your signals set correctly? Video is 16-235, PC 0-255. Make sure these are setup correctly.
Post #6 from this link will tell you how to do the setup.
Calibrate for 0-255 or 16-235?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hungro View Post
I see now that you have a PC in the mix. Do you have your signals set correctly? Video is 16-235, PC 0-255. Make sure these are setup correctly.
Post #6 from this link will tell you how to do the setup.
Calibrate for 0-255 or 16-235?
Using 10 bit 4:2:2, hence YCbCr422 so it is limited to 16-235. Using YCbCr you are forced to Video standards, one reason why it is not great for gaming or use as a PC monitor.

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Is this for a 65" or 55"? What panel?
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I got a 55in KS8000 over the weekend for the bedroom. TV seems decent so far, It's gonna be mostly used for dark room viewing though, It might have the potential to best my ST30, but it's not gonna match my ST60, I can already tell, not for dark room viewing. Not sure what I think about HDR either. It seems like little more than glorified dynamic contrast with some better color here and there. The way people have talked about it, i'm a little bit disappointed. I don't think an edgelit set is capable of really doing HDR like it's supposed to be done.

Anywho, I'm gonna take a stab at calibrating it sometime this week. Right now I plan to do the majority of viewing through a Roku Premier+ using a lot of Plex with some Netflix/Amazon for UHD/HDR stuff. I may do an HTPC setup at some point though. I have an HTPC w/ MadVR and a 3DLut for my ST30 and loved the results of the 3DLut.

I have Calman Enthusiast and I'll at least hook it up to my HTPC and run patterns through MadVR and take readings with an i1D3 profiled by a Colormunki Photo. I'm just a hobbyist, so I appreciate the initial tips, sounds like it might require more effort than I was anticipating.. Hopefully more people will chime in. This seems to be a popular TV so I figured there'd be more discussion about calibrating it.
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samsung ks8000 Calibration

Honestly I had no issues calibrating it. I needed to raise the red gain on the 2 point system and then balance the greyscale and gamma using the 10 point. Just be aware any major edits to 80-100 will have a large effect. I'm talking like moving more than 1-2 points. Contrast can be dialed up to your liking from 86-95. Brightness 45. Sharpness around 6. Movie, warm 2. I calibrated with smart Led off and then I set it to low. High for hdr.

Have you tried downloading some hdr content onto a thumb drive? When you can get some true 4K hdr material it is light years better than the crap on Netflix/Amazon.

If you would like me to post my settings as a starting point for you let me know? You can try the other ones in the thread also.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttnuagmada View Post
I got a 55in KS8000 over the weekend for the bedroom. TV seems decent so far, It's gonna be mostly used for dark room viewing though, It might have the potential to best my ST30, but it's not gonna match my ST60, I can already tell, not for dark room viewing. Not sure what I think about HDR either. It seems like little more than glorified dynamic contrast with some better color here and there. The way people have talked about it, i'm a little bit disappointed. I don't think an edgelit set is capable of really doing HDR like it's supposed to be done.

Anywho, I'm gonna take a stab at calibrating it sometime this week. Right now I plan to do the majority of viewing through a Roku Premier+ using a lot of Plex with some Netflix/Amazon for UHD/HDR stuff. I may do an HTPC setup at some point though. I have an HTPC w/ MadVR and a 3DLut for my ST30 and loved the results of the 3DLut.

I have Calman Enthusiast and I'll at least hook it up to my HTPC and run patterns through MadVR and take readings with an i1D3 profiled by a Colormunki Photo. I'm just a hobbyist, so I appreciate the initial tips, sounds like it might require more effort than I was anticipating.. Hopefully more people will chime in. This seems to be a popular TV so I figured there'd be more discussion about calibrating it.
Don't forget that current HDR is still essentially based on 100 nits overall brightness as Rec 709 is, with the additional brightness the set can muster used for highlights, so it won't be a huge difference over SDR material. I think people who run their sets at the out-of-the-box full throttle settings are the most disappointed by HDR since the TV throttles back to that 100-nit point and suddenly the picture is much darker.
I've calibrated our 49" KS8000's HDMI1 input to Rec709, since we currently have no external-to-the-TV 4K sources. In HDR mode, I've been able to do the 10-point grayscale using CalMAN Enthusiast's HDR workflow, an HDFury Linker to upscale and inject HDR metadata, an I1D3 RevB colorimeter profiled with an I1Pro 2, and patterns generated by a Lumagen Radiance. You cannot eliminate a steep dip in luminance around 70% as it seems to be an artifact of the HDR rolloff, but can still get the red, green, and blue tracking together.

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So I did a little messing around with it. Right now, the 2 point settings are the only thing I ended up sticking with. I tried a full 10pt, but I didn't feel that the results were an improvement, mostly because I'm not 100% sure how to approach the gamma. The CMS controls are also different from what I'm used to, I tried my hand at it, but again, didn't feel like there was an improvement.

As for gamma; I calibrated using 18% APL patterns generated by Calman through MadVR. I went with APL patterns because even with Smart LED turned off, the LED's turn off for 0% black. From my understanding, BT.1886 requires the TV's real 0% black reading to work as intended. I ended up setting the "Gamma" control to 1, and this got me fairly close, but the gamma for 70%-90% were all too low (ie needed to be darker, 90 especially). I could have lowered the RGB controls for 70 80 and 90, but I instead decided to raise the RGB controls for 100 by about 6 points for each channel, more out of curiosity than anything . This brought 70-80-90 much closer to where they needed to be. The chart looked almost perfect by the time I was done (0.3 dE), but when I threw some content on to test it out, I saw a couple of issues.

I had my laptop and HTPC both connected to different HDMI ports, and compared different scenes/frames from the fully calibrated settings vs just the 2pt settings. The issues I saw, that were gamma related, were that near-blacks seemed maybe a tad brighter than they should be (juuust a tad), and that a couple of highlights seemed a little bit clipped. I did a 20pt reading out of curiosity, and noticed that even though gamma for 70-80-90 were in line, 95 had the same spike that 90 had previously. I threw a white-clipping pattern on, and even though 230-234 weren't completely clipped, they were pretty close. So I don't guess boosting 100 to level out the high-end gamma is a good idea. I'll try it again soon, but for now I just went ahead and tossed the 10pt settings.

I'm also not really used to these kinds of CMS controls. I did 100% patterns starting out, but everything below it was off, so I ended up doing 75%, which got everything mostly ok, but seemed to give sub-optimal results at 100%. One thing I noticed that was strange, was the blue color having way too much red. It was already at 0, so i couldn't turn it down any, and yet the dE was fine without my being able to turn it down? seemed strange to me. Colors when watching content seemed a little bit under-saturated maybe.

The TV I had nearby to directly compare it to is a Panasonic ST30 plasma. It's watched mostly using MadVR with a 3Dlut I made. For lower APL scenes, The ST30 still looks better to me. Colors were a little better, and the blacks/shadow detail were better even with the backlight at 4 on the KS8000. I'm calling BS on rtings contrast ratio's for the 2016 Samsung sets. I never could get black readings below .025 nits using any kind of APL configuration unless I did 90% windows at 18% APL, or use windows alone and leave my mouse cursor in the corner while taking a black reading. That was the only way I could get black levels similar to rtings, while still hitting over 100 nits at 100%.

Anywho, If you guys have any tips, I would be grateful.
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post #15 of 60 Old 11-16-2016, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by egandt View Post
  • PC outputing 4Kp30 at 4:2:2 10 bit
  • NVidia GTX 1070
Anything other than 4:4:4 or RGB Full, will give you really bad colors. If this is Nvidias fault or Sammy's I dunno. Also HDR looks absolutely amazing! Try the game "Obduction" you'll see what I'm talking about
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post #16 of 60 Old 11-29-2016, 11:28 PM
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Is there any way to keep the backlight from dimming with low average picture levels? I've noticed that it dims slightly when switching between a white bordered pluge and pluge with a fully black background. The backlight apparently goes all the way off when the screen is entirely black. Smart LED, Eco Sensor, and Energy Saving Mode are all turned off. Can the "Min. Backlight" setting under "Eco Sensor" be used to prevent the dimming (perhaps by setting it to the same setting as the backlight)?
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Is there any way to keep the backlight from dimming with low average picture levels? I've noticed that it dims slightly when switching between a white bordered pluge and pluge with a fully black background. The backlight apparently goes all the way off when the screen is entirely black. Smart LED, Eco Sensor, and Energy Saving Mode are all turned off. Can the "Min. Backlight" setting under "Eco Sensor" be used to prevent the dimming (perhaps by setting it to the same setting as the backlight)?
Welcome to Samsung TV's.

On a more serious note, you can rename the input/change the input icon to PC. But you loose a lot of picture controls. But the plus side of that is you gain pure 4:4:4 and RGB processing (it doesn't downscale internally to 4:2:2).
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post #18 of 60 Old 11-30-2016, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Quad5Ny View Post
Welcome to Samsung TV's.

On a more serious note, you can rename the input/change the input icon to PC. But you loose a lot of picture controls. But the plus side of that is you gain pure 4:4:4 and RGB processing (it doesn't downscale internally to 4:2:2).
This sounds similar to "game" mode on other TVs which I find to be a plus. It would be nice if you didn't have to trick the TV into it, and could retain the proper input name and icon.
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post #19 of 60 Old 11-30-2016, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by egandt View Post
My Current Settings for non-HDR:

Headings 4K30HZ 4:2:2 10 bit HDMI1
Mesured settings
white point D65 RED.709
Gamma Target 2.3
Color saturation used 100%
Peak Lum. 96.15
Contrast Ratio 4175
REC.709 Coverage 99.50%
TV Settings
setting movie
backlight 5
brightness 34
contrast 94
color 50
tint 50/50
color warm2
gamma 2
2 Point WB
r-offset 0
G-offset 2
b-offset 0
r-gain 8
g-gain -1
b-gain -5
10 Point WB
10 -8/-50/17
20 3/3/-22
30 -2/-10/-2
40 -1/0/5
50 -2/-1/3
60 1/0/4
70 -1/0/10
80 -2/1/7
90 1/0/7
100 0/0/0
Colors
Red 20/5/2
Green 22/46/5
Blue 0/0/31
Yellow 49/48/5
Cyan 22/44/50
Magenta 19/7/29

Note: As I stated above the 10 or 20% gray is always way off for some reason on this TV, no way to fix it if you want 30%+ to be decent, in this case using these settings the issues is seen at under 15%.

Results with and without a 3D LUT active attached. I normally use the 3D LUT for viewing.
I know this post is from a few months ago but I'm seeing "LCD White Wide Gamut" as the spectral sample profile. I don't think that is correct, that TV does not have white LED's.

You might want to go back and re-calibrate with a more appropriate meter correction file.
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post #20 of 60 Old 12-05-2016, 10:58 AM
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I just recently got the 55 inch ks8000 and I'm kinda disappointed with the picture quality. When I launch Netflix, the text seems to be fuzzy and blurry. I've test this with YouTube, Netflix and Xbox One S. I even compared this to my 2014 MacBook's Retina display on a Netflix movie and the picture quality is compareable or the a little bit more blurry on the ks8000. The ks8000 is supposed to be surperb when comparing it against the MacBook, it shouldn't even be closely comparable. Another problem is that when I launch Netflix through my Xbox One S, the tv suddenly says it's playing an HDR video and then the whole screen dims and darkens until you quit the Netflix App. Here is my display settings:
- Movie Mode
- Backlight 15
- Brightness 45
- Contrast 90
- Sharpness 0
- Color 50
- Tint is G50 to R50
- Apple Picture to All Sources
- Digital Clean View: Off
- Auto Motion: Off
- Smart LED: High
- HDMI Black Level: auto
- Dynamic Contrast: Off
- Color Tone: Warm1(warm2 is too yellowish for me)
- Gamma: 0
- Color Space: Auto

I'm not a professional caliber so I'm not sure what I've done wrong, I'm not even sure if I got a defective one. If I'm spending this much on a TV set, I want the picture to be mind blowing like all the review says. Please help because I want to know if I received a defective product, thanks.
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post #21 of 60 Old 12-09-2016, 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Derek922 View Post
I just recently got the 55 inch ks8000 and I'm kinda disappointed with the picture quality. When I launch Netflix, the text seems to be fuzzy and blurry. I've test this with YouTube, Netflix and Xbox One S. I even compared this to my 2014 MacBook's Retina display on a Netflix movie and the picture quality is compareable or the a little bit more blurry on the ks8000. The ks8000 is supposed to be surperb when comparing it against the MacBook, it shouldn't even be closely comparable. Another problem is that when I launch Netflix through my Xbox One S, the tv suddenly says it's playing an HDR video and then the whole screen dims and darkens until you quit the Netflix App. Here is my display settings:
- Movie Mode
- Backlight 15
- Brightness 45
- Contrast 90
- Sharpness 0
- Color 50
- Tint is G50 to R50
- Apple Picture to All Sources
- Digital Clean View: Off
- Auto Motion: Off
- Smart LED: High
- HDMI Black Level: auto
- Dynamic Contrast: Off
- Color Tone: Warm1(warm2 is too yellowish for me)
- Gamma: 0
- Color Space: Auto

I'm not a professional caliber so I'm not sure what I've done wrong, I'm not even sure if I got a defective one. If I'm spending this much on a TV set, I want the picture to be mind blowing like all the review says. Please help because I want to know if I received a defective product, thanks.
Try turning on or off UMD Color?
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post #22 of 60 Old 12-09-2016, 06:56 AM
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Try turning on or off UMD Color?
UHD* Color
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post #23 of 60 Old 12-28-2016, 05:03 AM
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hey egandt
i saw your ks8000 calibration thread and was wondering how you get your nvidia card (i have a gtx 1080) to output 10bit? my nvidia settings are locked at 8bit.
and do you use full or limited RGB for pc gaming?
are the calibration settings you posted in your thread also good for gaming or only for shows, movies etc?

cheers
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post #24 of 60 Old 12-31-2016, 01:00 AM
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Are there any calibration enthusiasts in the San Francisco East Bay area? I have the 65" Costco model and want to get things set up right.

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Originally Posted by Quad5Ny View Post
Welcome to Samsung TV's.

On a more serious note, you can rename the input/change the input icon to PC. But you loose a lot of picture controls. But the plus side of that is you gain pure 4:4:4 and RGB processing (it doesn't downscale internally to 4:2:2).
Well, I finally had the opportunity to test this, and I couldn't tell that it made any difference at all. I saw no evidence of any change in chroma subsampling, nor the available picture controls. It also made no difference on the backlight dimming when the average picture level is low.
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Are there any calibration enthusiasts in the San Francisco East Bay area? I have the 65" Costco model and want to get things set up right.
There are a couple of professional calibrators in the East Bay that will do an excellent job, unless you want to learn how yourself.
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post #27 of 60 Old 01-01-2017, 01:58 PM
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Calibrated my UN65KS8000 (FA01), finally got a good panel after the 3rd try.

Anyway, here are my settings for Movie mode along with a calibration report from CalMAN. This calibration was done with the latest version of CalMAN and an i1Display Pro.

Color Space
Red: 30, 8, 2
Green: 26, 48, 6
Blue: 0, 6, 44
Yellow: 51, 51, 7
Cyan: 24, 48, 50
Magenta: 33, 13, 49
If you were calibrating to Rec. 709, it might not have been necessary to adjust individual primary and secondary colors in the Color Space menu. These sets are spot on to Rec 709 gamut in Color Space: Auto, at least our 49" with FA01 panel is.

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post #28 of 60 Old 01-01-2017, 02:08 PM
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If you were calibrating to Rec. 709, it might not have been necessary to adjust individual primary and secondary colors in the Color Space menu. These sets are spot on to Rec 709 gamut in Color Space: Auto, at least our 49" with FA01 panel is.
I checked Auto even before I went to Custom. They weren't spot on. Very close, but wasn't "spot on". Every panel is different.
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Samsung UN65KS800, Denon AVR-X2300W, Polk CS20 Center, Polk Monitor 75T Fronts, Polk TSI300 Rears, Power Sound Audio S1500 Subwoofer.
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There are a couple of professional calibrators in the East Bay that will do an excellent job, unless you want to learn how yourself.
I would, but I don't have the time nor equipment. I've only used Spears & Munsil, which really isn't calibration. Thanks.

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I would, but I don't have the time nor equipment. I've only used Spears & Munsil, which really isn't calibration. Thanks.
Adjusting with a cal disk like Spears & Munsil may be all you need to do depending on how tight the component tolerances are at time of build. Borrowing settings from someone else may improve your pq but it's far from a calibration, and all you've really done is adjust your panel to someone else's. If there is no improvement, or it's worse, then the component tolerances are more than likely the reason.
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