There is no thread just for calibration of the KS8000 I assume it would also work for the KS9000 series as well. Most of what is found in the owners thread are not professional and metered but are basically what I thought looked best, which is not very helpful.
My hope is that others that have actually used a meter and software to calibrate will also add to this.
First I suggest anyone looking to calibrate this TV looks first at:
http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/ks8000/settings
Second, my findings after spending many days spent calibrating this TV. Please note I do this for fun and my own benefit, I'm a Software Engineer by day.
My Tools:
General findings for HDR material:
First off this TV is not all close to standards for HDR10, in fact I'd say that it should not even be listed as HDR10 compatible with deltas above 10 in many areas. Second, I did not buy it for HDR so I'm ok, not happy but OK with that.
Second post will be my current settings (they tend to change as I re-calibrate the display). The Third will be HDR
My hope is that others that have actually used a meter and software to calibrate will also add to this.
First I suggest anyone looking to calibrate this TV looks first at:
http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/ks8000/settings
Second, my findings after spending many days spent calibrating this TV. Please note I do this for fun and my own benefit, I'm a Software Engineer by day.
My Tools:
- Calman Enthusiast 5.70a
- SpectraCal C6
- CalPC3 pattern generator or madvr 0.93 pattern generator
- Since these 2 come up with different results, I'm going with madvr as it supports 3D LUT's.
- HD Fury Intergal
- Used to fack teh HTPC to always see a TV as on
- Used to inject the HDR signal as needed for Calman HDR10 work flow.
- PC outputing 4Kp30 at 4:2:2 10 bit
- NVidia GTX 1070
- Always close the menu for WB calibration as it makes a big difference, it makes little to no difference for colors/saturations however (go figure).
- The TV even on Warm2 is very close to 7K and getting it down to 6500 is difficult, and results is the lower levels (under 30%, being to blue). Calibrating to 7000K is much easier, but obviously not preferred, however if you are getting started begin with 7000, to see how the functions work, then re-calibrate at 6500.
- 2 Point WB, assume that 80% needs to be low on blue so that 100 and 109% are decent on blue (it is very hard to fix 90%+ so ensure that 100% and 109% is decent before moving to 10 point WB.
- 10 point White Balance is not exact, in fact 100% is closer to 109% white, so the mapping is as follows, it may change some based on your brightness and Contrast, however normally the following mapping is correct:
- TV | Calman
- 10/10 and 20
- 20/30
- 30/40
- 40/50
- 50/60
- 60/70
- 70/80
- 80/90
- 90/90 and 100
- 100/109 (or often nothing at all).
- If you have only Basic or Advanced, workflows in Calman, AKA are only going about 10 point WB and Primaries (RBG/CYM) then you will find that calibration is straight forward, and can be almost exact.
- My Panel can not get exact to reference Blue for rec.709 of of teh box in Custom, it is always slightly to red..
- I can get 99.7% coverage of REC.709 as a result.
- Saturation/Luminance are awful if you calibrate for Primaries (be aware), delta's can be over 5 and often approach 7 in such cases.
- To improve Saturation, set the color at between 55 and 60, I'd suggest starting with 55.
- If tuning for Saturation/Luminance and Color it is possible to get close to a Delta of 3 for everything, Red and Magenta are furthest off. Colors should all be below a delta of 3, however a few will exceed 3 such as towards red, they should still be well under 5 however.
- If you use madvr and a 3D LUT, you can get the errors to under 1, for the most part.
- Gamma tracking is not as great as I expected based on reviews, you can track the gamma closely to 2.4 or 2.25 (those are the only values that track reasonable well from what I've tested). However they are always going to be non-linear with < 20 too dark and > 90 to bright that is simply how it tracks, the difference may be under .1 is some cases but it is always there.
- I find that Gamma, needs to normally be 1 or 2, depending on teh settings.
- Contrast Ratios, for the Panel are between 2000 and 4000 with every enhancement disabled!
- I've found that brightness has to be between 35 and 40 and contract should be between 90 and 95 for most calibrations.
- the Contrast does not matter much so long as it is above 90, but the brightness really needs to be down around 35 to get a good black.
General findings for HDR material:
First off this TV is not all close to standards for HDR10, in fact I'd say that it should not even be listed as HDR10 compatible with deltas above 10 in many areas. Second, I did not buy it for HDR so I'm ok, not happy but OK with that.
- Backlight need to be lower than 20, say 15 to 18 range.
- Brightness needs to be higher between 50 and 55 to eliminate a black crunch (even then 0% is lost, only .5+% is decent, but this is the case for any settings of brightness.
- Contrast needs to be lower around the 70 mark to get to100% white with lose of detail, but 100+% is always lost no matter what I did. Setting this lower breaks the gamma curve so you have a trade off very bad gamma between 40 and 80 or clipping white, there is no good answer. Best to leave at 100%
- Smart LED needs to remain on High
- Dynamic Contrast need to be Medium
- 10 point WB does not do anything at all, however 2 point works great
- Rather than 30 and 80 for WB, I'd suggest 40/90 as 30/80 tended to add to much red on the Offset and to much Blue on the Gain
- Leaving the Color Space as Auto, may be your best bet, as native performed worst, custom get close except for green.
Second post will be my current settings (they tend to change as I re-calibrate the display). The Third will be HDR