About to embark on a calibration of my own B6P and appreciate all this advice. I have a few questions though to make sure I understood you clearly (am a bit of a beginner here, as well soon become crystal):
So I had to Google what this was just now (have only calibrated three sets, all of which were FALD Vizios). Will something like this
suffice? Or else - which calibration disc are you using? So far I've been using the AVS HD 709 disc/files (in conjunction with ChromaPure) and it doesn't look like a pattern of this kind is up there. Or can I just avoid this situation by shutting off the TV's screen saver (which of course I'll do anyway) and making sure the screen is always fed with something other than black? Do you know more precisely what the threshold is before this becomes an issue - in other words, how often would I want to switch to the moving zone plate video?
Noted for when I actually have HDR content and calibration software that can calibrate for HDR. Thanks.
Is it your professional opinion that the starting point for calibrations should be one of the ISF modes, as opposed to, say, Cinema mode? Can you explain why? Should the starting point for calibrations be Bright Room for day and Dark Room for night?
This sounds pretty awful. To be sure I understood, this means that the CMS should be entirely avoided and any attempt to use it will result in these kinds of abrupt changes in hue, correct? And we should just live with (...) the colors once greyscale and gamma calibration are complete?
Noted. Are the window patterns from AVS709's ChromaPure section sufficiently small (25% or smaller)? Here's one, for example
By 'high end', do you mean '80%+ Gray'? Also, to be clear, by 'not in real time', do you just mean: take initial measurements, calibrate using 2-point IRE (I guess this means switching to 20 point later will not eliminate the values inputted for 2-point?) and then apply this heuristic to try to get a good result, instead of adjusting IRE values while monitoring them with your calibration software/meter?
Finally, you mention touching 20-point IRE only in the context of greyscale, or at least that's what it sounds like. But the workflow is still 'normal', right? IOW, get greyscale right, either using this heuristic or in 'real time' (though I'm still not sure yet if I understood the distinction you were making there...) and then further modify those values in targeting gamma. Correct?
Noted. Can you explain, though, the difference between the 'Backlight' control, as opposed to the 'OLED LIGHT' control? (The two are listed as distinct in the manual at least.) Is there a good balance you would recommend between the OLED light and contrast values, beyond making sure that contrast stays relatively high (close to 85)? I suppose this would somehow depend on the light output I was going for (let's stick with 170 cd/m2 I think).
Re: 'SG fleshtones color checker patterns' - can you recommend a disk with these patterns? AVS709 doesn't appear to have them. It looks like this one
does but I'm not sure if it's worth investing in. So I guess as in (1) above I'm asking for a recommendation on this again, heh.
In any case, what should the workflow here be? Measure, change main color and tint, and measure again? Before embarking on calibration of greyscale and gamma, then, do you recommend that Color be left at 50 and Tint at 0, instead of using flashing color bars
and the TV's blue filter to get the 'boxes' to match up beforehand (that's what I've been doing until now).
It does not appear that ChromaPure allows for custom gamma targets like this. Presumably though I can just calibrate to the target Y's you posted here
(I'm OK with 170 for nighttime/dim viewing) and the only thing I'll lose is the benefit of a nice-looking graph, right? (I am realizing more and more, btw, the limitations of this software. Le sigh.)
I know these many of these questions are pretty basic, so thanks in advance for your time, effort, and patience.