***Official B/C/E/G6P OLED Calibration Thread - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 1602 Old 11-26-2016, 10:40 PM
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And with HCFR, use the OLED setting in the drop down, or would you recommend a different setting?
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post #32 of 1602 Old 11-27-2016, 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by fafrd View Post
I believe 'reset to default values' in the picture settings and whitepoint settings only resets picture settings without changing app logins, etc...

Reset to factory defaults at the general/TV level is a different story, but that is not what I meant...
Yup, I saw it right after posting...being silly, sorry.
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post #33 of 1602 Old 11-27-2016, 10:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by vollans View Post
And with HCFR, use the OLED setting in the drop down, or would you recommend a different setting?
That's really a question best answered by Chad (or asked on the HCFR thread).

When I first started calibrating LG OLEDs a year ago, the OLED type was for Samsung-style OLED (R,G, B) and the recommendation for LG type OLED was to use LCD White LED.

I have a correction file measured from an LG OLED and use that.

Calibrating to any reference is a good way to learn and will result in a better, more accurate picture than calibrating by eyeball.

Whether eventually HCFR supports an LG OLED mode (as they should sincecSamsubg OLED is dead) or an LG OLED owner like me or someone else provides a meter correction file, the result would amount to a touch-up.

I'm still in the evaluation phase and will probably remain so until hitting at least 100 hours. But once I decide this TV is a keeper, I will invest more into calibration, including getting into CMS and using my i1Pro to generate a new meter correction file.

For learning the basics of Whitepoint/gamma calibration and getting the most bang for the buck (meaning time ), using LED White LCD or OLED (R, G, B) would probably work equally well (though I, too, would appreciate Chad's or Buzz's suggestion for which would be better).
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post #34 of 1602 Old 11-27-2016, 03:25 PM
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OK, this is as far as I got last night and today. I'm afraid the gamma part is misleading because I can't get light output to stay constant on this display...but I need to take a break. Thanks for all the advice fafrd.
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File Type: pdf bilditup1_b6p_1st_attempt.pdf (156.1 KB, 569 views)
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post #35 of 1602 Old 11-27-2016, 08:45 PM
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The report looks great. In what way is the gamma graph misleading?
How does it look with content?
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post #36 of 1602 Old 11-27-2016, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by bilditup1 View Post
About to embark on a calibration of my own B6P and appreciate all this advice. I have a few questions though to make sure I understood you clearly (am a bit of a beginner here, as well soon become crystal):



So I had to Google what this was just now (have only calibrated three sets, all of which were FALD Vizios). Will something like this suffice? Or else - which calibration disc are you using? So far I've been using the AVS HD 709 disc/files (in conjunction with ChromaPure) and it doesn't look like a pattern of this kind is up there. Or can I just avoid this situation by shutting off the TV's screen saver (which of course I'll do anyway) and making sure the screen is always fed with something other than black? Do you know more precisely what the threshold is before this becomes an issue - in other words, how often would I want to switch to the moving zone plate video?



Noted for when I actually have HDR content and calibration software that can calibrate for HDR. Thanks.



Is it your professional opinion that the starting point for calibrations should be one of the ISF modes, as opposed to, say, Cinema mode? Can you explain why? Should the starting point for calibrations be Bright Room for day and Dark Room for night?



This sounds pretty awful. To be sure I understood, this means that the CMS should be entirely avoided and any attempt to use it will result in these kinds of abrupt changes in hue, correct? And we should just live with (...) the colors once greyscale and gamma calibration are complete?



Noted. Are the window patterns from AVS709's ChromaPure section sufficiently small (25% or smaller)? Here's one, for example.




By 'high end', do you mean '80%+ Gray'? Also, to be clear, by 'not in real time', do you just mean: take initial measurements, calibrate using 2-point IRE (I guess this means switching to 20 point later will not eliminate the values inputted for 2-point?) and then apply this heuristic to try to get a good result, instead of adjusting IRE values while monitoring them with your calibration software/meter?
Finally, you mention touching 20-point IRE only in the context of greyscale, or at least that's what it sounds like. But the workflow is still 'normal', right? IOW, get greyscale right, either using this heuristic or in 'real time' (though I'm still not sure yet if I understood the distinction you were making there...) and then further modify those values in targeting gamma. Correct?



Noted. Can you explain, though, the difference between the 'Backlight' control, as opposed to the 'OLED LIGHT' control? (The two are listed as distinct in the manual at least.) Is there a good balance you would recommend between the OLED light and contrast values, beyond making sure that contrast stays relatively high (close to 85)? I suppose this would somehow depend on the light output I was going for (let's stick with 170 cd/m2 I think).



Re: 'SG fleshtones color checker patterns' - can you recommend a disk with these patterns? AVS709 doesn't appear to have them. It looks like this one does but I'm not sure if it's worth investing in. So I guess as in (1) above I'm asking for a recommendation on this again, heh.
In any case, what should the workflow here be? Measure, change main color and tint, and measure again? Before embarking on calibration of greyscale and gamma, then, do you recommend that Color be left at 50 and Tint at 0, instead of using flashing color bars and the TV's blue filter to get the 'boxes' to match up beforehand (that's what I've been doing until now).



It does not appear that ChromaPure allows for custom gamma targets like this. Presumably though I can just calibrate to the target Y's you posted here (I'm OK with 170 for nighttime/dim viewing) and the only thing I'll lose is the benefit of a nice-looking graph, right? (I am realizing more and more, btw, the limitations of this software. Le sigh.)

I know these many of these questions are pretty basic, so thanks in advance for your time, effort, and patience.
I think that would be fine. I just chose a moving zone plate because it's movement keeps the display at full brightness and it's a constant low APL load. I use a pattern generator.

Any size or style window on any test disc will work fine.

I think I would like to hear LG's engineers explain the difference between the contrast control and the OLED light control. I know the ways in which they behave differently, but only they can explain why they have two controls whose main function is basically the same.

I don't recommend using the blue filters or the color isolation controls in the TV to set color and tint.

Hopefully between me and fafrd we got your questions answered.
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post #37 of 1602 Old 11-27-2016, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vollans View Post
And with HCFR, use the OLED setting in the drop down, or would you recommend a different setting?
I own an i1D3 (though I recently moved on to a Klein K-10), but I always profiled it to a spectro each time I used it, so accuracy of the factory profile was never a concern for me.
However, a long time ago I used CalMAN to test the i1D3 against the spectro on an older LG OLED and it turned out the raw XYZ data setting (no factory profile) was a closer match than the OLED profile. I posted the results but it's buried somewhere in one of the older OLED model owner's threads.
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post #38 of 1602 Old 11-28-2016, 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Chad B View Post
The report looks great.
Great! Thanks! FWIW - I did initial measurements with the gamma setting of the TV 2.2, 2.4 and BT.1886 respectively and found that they do get in the ballpark of each, and ended up sticking with the BT.1886 setting. I also changed 5% and 100% RGB values in the IRE but only late in the process while refining.
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In what way is the gamma graph misleading?
Well, the thing is, if after everything is done, I measure 100% white again, it isn't in the exact same spot as when I began - I get it as close to 170 as I can when starting, but it looks like it fluctuates within a range of 167-172 cd/m2, over time, even if I bring make the screen more active again (see below). So of course this mucks up everything. This time, I didn't bother doing that reading again and just did individual ones up to that point. If I do a full read of the whole spectrum over again, I bet I'll find that nothing is where I left it, too. So I have no clue if what I'm doing is 'proper' or not or how to tell.

Also, aside for the gamma part of the graph being misleading - reads at 5% vary wildly. Ultimately I think I got it so it stays within a range of 0.5-1.5dE but I'm not 100% sure. At the end I gave up since it's so dark that even if it's slightly biased to a given color it'll be very hard to detect, and I didn't see anything like that in the one thing I watched. Speaking of...

Quote:
How does it look with content?
So I didn't actually watch anything except 'The Dark Knight' off of a Bluray. Mostly awesome except some detail (black suits, say) appears to be crushed (I think? I'm not sure how to know this for sure) with the targets that the BT.1886 calculator built in to ChromaPure 3 uses (set black to 0.005cd/m2 per your recommendation and 170 for white). I didn't try to use the graph fafrd posted and could do that next. Or maybe try for your custom gamma targets (those were for 170cd/m2 right?)
Any case, I would like to watch a few more things on it. Anything you think I should look for?

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I think that would be fine. I just chose a moving zone plate because it's movement keeps the display at full brightness and it's a constant low APL load. I use a pattern generator.
Cool. What I had to do was bring up the calibration disc's (I used R. Masciola's) menu every other minute...when I forgot to do this the reads would go haywire, but bringing it up for a second or so brought the brightness right all the way back up.
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Any size or style window on any test disc will work fine.
Cool. I ended up using 5% ones, and also APL briefly. Didn't seem to matter. As long as full fields aren't used - right?
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I think I would like to hear LG's engineers explain the difference between the contrast control and the OLED light control. I know the ways in which they behave differently, but only they can explain why they have two controls whose main function is basically the same.
Aha, cool. I didn't realize that when you said 'backlight' you meant 'contrast' - I had assumed there was a separate backlight setting that I hadn't yet noticed or something. But of course that is what contrast is, heh.
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I don't recommend using the blue filters or the color isolation controls in the TV to set color and tint.
OK. I ended up doing it out of habit anyway. Can I safely change those back to unity without mucking up the rest of my work now? Presumably not?
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Hopefully between me and fafrd we got your questions answered.
Ya, more or less. Thanks, both of you!

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post #39 of 1602 Old 11-28-2016, 10:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bilditup1 View Post
OK, this is as far as I got last night and today. I'm afraid the gamma part is misleading because I can't get light output to stay constant on this display...but I need to take a break. Thanks for all the advice fafrd.
Congrats - pretty remarkable improvement - do you notice it on content? (You can use the other uncalibrated ISF mode with identical base settings to do an A/B compare... ).
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post #40 of 1602 Old 11-28-2016, 10:55 AM - Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=bilditup1;48503009]
OK. I ended up doing it out of habit anyway. Can I safely change those back to unity without mucking up the rest of my work now? Presumably not?/QUOTE]

In theory, CMS is completely independant from Whit-balance/21-ot.

So you should be able to restore CMS settings to default without causing any changes to your greyscale/gamma measurements...
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post #41 of 1602 Old 11-28-2016, 12:27 PM - Thread Starter
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I apologize if this is a very NOOB question but I am confused and need help.

I had everything calibrated with my Sony Bluray player set to Output Mode 'Auto' (versus YCbCr(4:2:2), YCbCr(4:4:4) or RGB and with the OLED Black Level set to Low. Broghtness set by Pluge pattern was at 52.

I had a mismatch with the HCFR pattern generator which had to be set to 0:255 to get the levels coming out right (consistent with Black Level = Low).

I saw data convincing me that I should set my Bluray player to Output = RGB but when I did that, black levels became all screwed up.

Left on Black Level=Low, Brightness had to increase to 58.

Switched to Black Level=High, Brightness had to drop to 40.

Which Black Leel setting is the right one to use for Bluray output?

Which output models the best to use from my Sony Bluray player?

If I want to use RGB output, what is the correct Black Level setting to use for that?

It seems like any of these changes is going to result in my prior calibration being invalidated - is there any way to salvage it?

And lastly, I have been copying my 11-pt settings to all inputs, which is he way I assumed they would apply to live TV and streaming as well. If changing Bluray player to RGB screws that up, what is the mode used by streaming and what is the most effective way to calibrate to that - set Bluray Player back to Auto or YCbCr(4:2:2) just to calibrate TV and streaming and then switch back to RGB for Bluray output?
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post #42 of 1602 Old 11-28-2016, 08:50 PM
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Hey folks. Brand new to the forums. I've been browsing for a while, and you folks not only inspired me to purchase a brand new 55'' E6P, but also an iDisplay Pro, ChromaPure standard edition, a tripod, a tripod extension, as well as the LightSpace Blu-ray.

I'm going to be calibrating my set over the next two weeks and, since I have never calibrated anything besides a PC monitor using DisplayCAL, I am just trying to make sure that what I will be doing is correct. I will be asking plenty of questions, so feel free to roll your eyes at how simple some of them might be (I have read through many guides on TV calibration, and am still quite a bit confused, so please bare with me).

I have a few questions before I even begin the calibration process, and I would be super grateful for any help I can receive.

1.) Is there a standard which is useful for calibrating HDR yet (I have heard mixed messages regarding this), or should Rec. 709 or another standard be used for calibration of this specific set?

2.) Should I begin with pluge patterns before I head into the testing of greyscale and probe assisted calibration?

3.) Should I use ChromaPure to begin with or try out HCFR? To add onto that, is there a perceptible difference between the results of the two programs?

4.) Any "pro" tips that are lesser known? Any help whatsoever would be greatly appreciated.
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post #43 of 1602 Old 11-28-2016, 09:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jack_DeWitt View Post
Hey folks. Brand new to the forums. I've been browsing for a while, and you folks not only inspired me to purchase a brand new 55'' E6P, but also an iDisplay Pro, ChromaPure standard edition, a tripod, a tripod extension, as well as the LightSpace Blu-ray.

I'm going to be calibrating my set over the next two weeks and, since I have never calibrated anything besides a PC monitor using DisplayCAL, I am just trying to make sure that what I will be doing is correct. I will be asking plenty of questions, so feel free to roll your eyes at how simple some of them might be (I have read through many guides on TV calibration, and am still quite a bit confused, so please bare with me).

I have a few questions before I even begin the calibration process, and I would be super grateful for any help I can receive.

1.) Is there a standard which is useful for calibrating HDR yet (I have heard mixed messages regarding this), or should Rec. 709 or another standard be used for calibration of this specific set?
Start with Rec.709. Your Blurays, OTA TV, Cable, and most streaming will look great and it is far more stable and established, so advice will be more consistent.

Quote:
2.) Should I begin with pluge patterns before I head into the testing of greyscale and probe assisted calibration?
Yes. There is a tutorial included on the free AVSHD709 disk which is worth going through..

Quote:
3.) Should I use ChromaPure to begin with or try out HCFR? To add onto that, is there a perceptible difference between the results of the two programs?
I've never used ChromaPure but have used Calman. It's kind of like PC versus Mac - the professional packages (Chromapure, Calman) are more automatic/handholding while HCFR is more open - it can be harder to get it working the way you want but you will have a much clearer idea of what you are doing once you do. Results-wise they should be the same though HFCR will give you more flexibility to do things your own way (such as calibrating to a custom gamma curve).

Quote:
4.) Any "pro" tips that are lesser known? Any help whatsoever would be greatly appreciated.
I'm not a pro but a prosumer DIY calibrator with about 4 TVs over 2 years under my belt.

Especially with an OLED, my advice is to start with Whitebalance/21-pt before trying to tackle color/CMS.

-easiest to understand
-greatest bang-for-the-buck/effort in terms of OLED PQ (shadow detail)
-Color is generally pretty good on these OLEDs out-of-the-box.

Good luck (and please post HCFR-specific questions on the HCFR thread - a great deal of traffic and very good support).
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post #44 of 1602 Old 11-29-2016, 05:13 AM
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Good luck (and please post HCFR-specific questions on the HCFR thread - a great deal of traffic and very good support).
Thank you for taking the time to type all of that out and assist me in this process! I have decided to purchase CalMAN 5 as well, so I have a whole suite of software to choose from. Not only will I be calibrating my new set, but a dozen or so of various family this coming holiday. Hopefully, after doing so, I'll have much practice to calibrate my own set to its highest standards. I'll be sure to let y'all know if I have any more questions pertaining to this specific set. Cheers!
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post #45 of 1602 Old 11-29-2016, 10:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jack_DeWitt View Post
Thank you for taking the time to type all of that out and assist me in this process! I have decided to purchase CalMAN 5 as well, so I have a whole suite of software to choose from. Not only will I be calibrating my new set, but a dozen or so of various family this coming holiday. Hopefully, after doing so, I'll have much practice to calibrate my own set to its highest standards. I'll be sure to let y'all know if I have any more questions pertaining to this specific set. Cheers!
Please report back how you contrast Calman with HCFR. I used a free version for a while and when it comes to printing out impressive 'before' and 'after' reports for your friends, it's far superior to HCFR.

It's also far more 'guided' which I sispect it will allow you to deliver an improvement to your friends TVs with far less time investment on your side.

But from my experience, when you want to go off the beaten path HCFR is far more flexible...

Good luck and looking forward to your before and after report of your OLED from Calman once you get around to it .
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Originally Posted by fafrd View Post
For learning the basics of Whitepoint/gamma calibration and getting the most bang for the buck (meaning time ), using LED White LCD or OLED (R, G, B) would probably work equally well (though I, too, would appreciate Chad's or Buzz's suggestion for which would be better).
Have you been able to compare these two HCFR settings to determine which is more accurate for the LG OLED, or tried other software? I used HCFR 2 years ago on my samsung - it would be nice to use it on my B6. Thanks.
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Originally Posted by Jack_DeWitt View Post
Thank you for taking the time to type all of that out and assist me in this process! I have decided to purchase CalMAN 5 as well, so I have a whole suite of software to choose from. Not only will I be calibrating my new set, but a dozen or so of various family this coming holiday. Hopefully, after doing so, I'll have much practice to calibrate my own set to its highest standards. I'll be sure to let y'all know if I have any more questions pertaining to this specific set. Cheers!
I'd be curious to hear your comparison of these suites, if you make one. I like ChromaPure and its creator is very responsive (on the forums, via email, etc), but the product can be rough around the edges and the UI is not super-impressive (even if it's relatively easy to use). I've been curious about CalMAN, which looks a bit more polished and full-featured, but the extra spend has been putting me off...
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post #48 of 1602 Old 11-29-2016, 02:42 PM
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Congrats - pretty remarkable improvement - do you notice it on content? (You can use the other uncalibrated ISF mode with identical base settings to do an A/B compare... ).
So what would qualify as base settings, before I do this comparison? Just brightness, contrast, and OLED Light?
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post #49 of 1602 Old 11-29-2016, 02:51 PM
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I apologize if this is a very NOOB question but I am confused and need help.

I had everything calibrated with my Sony Bluray player set to Output Mode 'Auto' (versus YCbCr(4:2:2), YCbCr(4:4:4) or RGB and with the OLED Black Level set to Low. Broghtness set by Pluge pattern was at 52.

I had a mismatch with the HCFR pattern generator which had to be set to 0:255 to get the levels coming out right (consistent with Black Level = Low).

I saw data convincing me that I should set my Bluray player to Output = RGB but when I did that, black levels became all screwed up.
I don't think you want to use RGB fwiw as I'm pretty sure it will have to be converted by the TV back to YCbCr and then back to RGB. I would look at your video card's output levels first, IMHO.


Quote:
what is the mode used by streaming
My guess is that it uses regular TV levels. Before switching to my Bluray player + Mascior's disc, I had done basic brightness and contrast levels using the patterns from AVS709 (which Mascior's disc also use) via the TV's Plex app, and I got the same results as when I did them again with the Bluray player. I will double-check this to make sure though.
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post #50 of 1602 Old 11-29-2016, 04:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Have you been able to compare these two HCFR settings to determine which is more accurate for the LG OLED, or tried other software? I used HCFR 2 years ago on my samsung - it would be nice to use it on my B6. Thanks.
No, I haven't been able to compare the various correction matrices, but I believe I read from Chad somewhere that no correction at all actually worked very well on these 2016 LG OLEDs...
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post #51 of 1602 Old 11-29-2016, 04:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bilditup1 View Post
So what would qualify as base settings, before I do this comparison? Just brightness, contrast, and OLED Light?
Those three and Gamma.

Chad's recommendation is to always fix Contrast at 85 and only adjust OLED Light to wary peak 100% luminance, so that would mean there are only three base settings:

Brightness
OLED Light
Gamma
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post #52 of 1602 Old 11-29-2016, 04:28 PM
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I'll be sure to do a comparison between HCFR, ChromaPure, as well as CalMAN 5 due to those requesting it. Be forewarned, though, that I will be unable to do so for over a month due to wanting the TV to burn in as well as my travel schedule.

Quick question: Should RGB be set to full (0-255) or limited (16-235) in CalMAN and other software when calibration is taking place? I've been browsing the software and, while going through the work space and playing with the settings, I can see that with CalMAN it alters target gamma and such.

To add onto the previous question, should I test to 100% white or 109%?

Again, thank you all for not only your support but also your interest in the calibration of my specific set and what the results will be.
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post #53 of 1602 Old 11-29-2016, 04:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bilditup1 View Post
I don't think you want to use RGB fwiw as I'm pretty sure it will have to be converted by the TV back to YCbCr and then back to RGB. I would look at your video card's output levels first, IMHO.




My guess is that it uses regular TV levels. Before switching to my Bluray player + Mascior's disc, I had done basic brightness and contrast levels using the patterns from AVS709 (which Mascior's disc also use) via the TV's Plex app, and I got the same results as when I did them again with the Bluray player. I will double-check this to make sure though.
Helpful - thanks.

I'm putting my Bluray player back on Auto since that is where it was when I calibrated and everything looks fine.

Ted tells me that my Sony S5200 puts out YCbCr(4:4:4) on Auto or YCbCr(4:4:4) or YCbCr(4:2:2), soonly RGB puts out something different (which will result in an extra 1-2 conversions, as you point out ).

It would be fantastic if there was a way I could get my laptop to put out YCbCr but I'm not sure it's possible...
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post #54 of 1602 Old 11-29-2016, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by fafrd View Post
Helpful - thanks.

I'm putting my Bluray player back on Auto since that is where it was when I calibrated and everything looks fine.

Ted tells me that my Sony S5200 puts out YCbCr(4:4:4) on Auto or YCbCr(4:4:4) or YCbCr(4:2:2), soonly RGB puts out something different (which will result in an extra 1-2 conversions, as you point out ).

It would be fantastic if there was a way I could get my laptop to put out YCbCr but I'm not sure it's possible...
No prob. And yeah, if your laptop is just using Intel graphics, then you won't be able to output YCbCr but you might be able to get it to output TV levels. When I was trying to source calibration patterns off my HTPC (not using it with this TV atm), I used MPC-HC with MadVR and there were some specific instructions on how to get it right/explains the situation:

Intel HD driver setting: ycbcr

So basically it depends on the chip, drivers etc. I think NVidia's cards might be a bit better/more reliable for this. Like the guy said in that comment, this absolutely needs to be stickied somewhere but inexplicably isn't.
(Also, fwiw, I did not keep WTW when I calibrated since every single discussion makes the advantages sound purely hypothetical and difficult to catch in real world viewing. I guess you'll decide for yourself whether this matters to you. Also I know that thread is discussing playback via MadVR in particular and may not apply to your pattern generator, but figured it's still relevant to the discussion.)

Last edited by bilditup1; 11-29-2016 at 07:08 PM.
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post #55 of 1602 Old 11-29-2016, 08:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bilditup1 View Post
No prob. And yeah, if your laptop is just using Intel graphics, then you won't be able to output YCbCr but you might be able to get it to output TV levels. When I was trying to source calibration patterns off my HTPC (not using it with this TV atm), I used MPC-HC with MadVR and there were some specific instructions on how to get it right/explains the situation:

Intel HD driver setting: ycbcr

So basically it depends on the chip, drivers etc. I think NVidia's cards might be a bit better/more reliable for this. Like the guy said in that comment, this absolutely needs to be stickied somewhere but inexplicably isn't.
(Also, fwiw, I did not keep WTW when I calibrated since every single discussion makes the advantages sound purely hypothetical and difficult to catch in real world viewing. I guess you'll decide for yourself whether this matters to you. Also I know that thread is discussing playback via MadVR in particular and may not apply to your pattern generator, but figured it's still relevant to the discussion.)
Thanks. I just posted in the HCFR thread what I think is going on.

Intel chipsets detect TVs and convert to 16-235 regardless of Limited/Full setting unless there is an inf file used to provide an (EDID) override: https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/lib...(v=vs.85).aspx

That means that if HCFR is set to 0-255, it will generate full-range-levels which will automatically be converted to 16-235 video levels before being sent to the TV (which is why the lumiance is correct but the labels are wrong).

If 16-235 is used within HCFR, a compression happens anyway, so what was 16-235 out of HCFR becomes luminance levels 30-218.

It sounds as most HCFR users just ignore the incorrect labels since the video levels come out correct for 16-235 when HCFR is set to 0-255.

If anyone ever goes to the trouble of figuring out how to establish an EDID override for a C6P, I'd be interested, but the only impact would be to allow HCFR to be set to 16-235 so that the labels come out correctly (so I'm not going to be the trailblazer ).
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post #56 of 1602 Old 11-29-2016, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by fafrd View Post
Use 2-pt Low to adjust whitepoint of 5% to as close to perfect balance as you can get it; then use 2-pt high to adjust whitepoint of 100% to as close to perfect as you can get it. Repeat this cycle 3-5 times (2-ot low also affects 100% and 2-pt high also affects 5%).

When you've settled on the best 2-pt settings you can find, remeasire 21-Pt. you should see 5% and 100% close to perfect and the errors between will dictate whether you need to adjust 21-pt.
Ok, did what you suggested, reset and started again, and did some more work on it today. Got the error down to 0.1 - 0.2 across the board on the 21 point. HCFR was hard work! Had a few instances of it locking up or going incredibly slowly updating values. But the greyscale is done for the time being, at least. I'll have another look at it hopefully this weekend.

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post #57 of 1602 Old 11-29-2016, 09:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by vollans View Post
Ok, did what you suggested, reset and started again, and did some more work on it today. Got the error down to 0.1 - 0.2 across the board on the 21 point. HCFR was hard work! Had a few instances of it locking up or going incredibly slowly updating values. But the greyscale is done for the time being, at least. I'll have another look at it hopefully this weekend.
Sounds good. Attaché pics of before and after graphs.

And enjoy some good dark content. Dark Knight, Dark Knight Rises and Tron II are 3 of my favorite dark movies for enjoying good shadow detail .

I've never had issues with HCFR locking up and the only really slow measurements are 0% (which can be bypassed).
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post #58 of 1602 Old 11-30-2016, 12:12 AM
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Pre-calibration
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LG OLED55C6T 4K HDR TV, Yamaha RX-A2050 Receiver, Q Acoustics 3010, 3050, 3070 and 3090 speakers, Yamaha YST-SW030 rear sub, Sony BDP-S6500 Blu ray, Samsung UBD-K8500 UHD, Fetch TV Mighty, IQ2HD, Apple TV Series 4, eeColor LUT, and DreamScreen.
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post #59 of 1602 Old 11-30-2016, 12:14 AM
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Post-calibration
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LG OLED55C6T 4K HDR TV, Yamaha RX-A2050 Receiver, Q Acoustics 3010, 3050, 3070 and 3090 speakers, Yamaha YST-SW030 rear sub, Sony BDP-S6500 Blu ray, Samsung UBD-K8500 UHD, Fetch TV Mighty, IQ2HD, Apple TV Series 4, eeColor LUT, and DreamScreen.
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post #60 of 1602 Old 11-30-2016, 09:07 AM
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This is a very interesting thread.

I just got a LG OLED 55E6P to use as a color correction/grading monitor (though I wouldn't call myself a colorist). It is connected to my windows editing machine, which uses an nvidia GTX 1080.

For my main monitor I have an LG 31MU97-B, which I calibrate regularly with a Spyder5. I am creating HDR content from Red cameras, and it seems like the E6 will do well until QLED or whatever comes next that can get us to 4000 nits.

I have two quesitons:
1) Short of buying a C6-HDR, are there more economical ways to get accurate color (stress on accuracy versus "looks pleasing")?

2) Are there different considerations when calibrating video from a PC via HDMI 2.0a versus a blu ray or the internal decoder (e.g. from USB stick)?

Thanks in advance!
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