***Official B/C/E/G6P OLED Calibration Thread - Page 56 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1651 of 1684 Old 06-05-2017, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by shield1280 View Post
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Originally Posted by pazman2000 View Post
I have calibrated it every which way I can but always come up against the edge glow on full 0% field , to have no glow I can only get 18 visible in the dark , 1% is fully visible at that in a bat cave.
I had the same problem on my 950 , my 930 was the only oled that a could get 17 visible and keep a full field 0% black with no glow
Ok,then i don't know.have you tried what D-Nice said.use 2pt low green -12 and then set 2pt high and check brightness and then do the 20pt and after that check brightness again.

You lucky to see bar 18 without glow,on mine anything over 50 will glow,and with the brightness set at 50 i only see bar 24-25,with 51 I see 23-25 bar.

I can see the 0,5% if i stick my nose to the tv with brightness 51 in a batcave,1% i can see with my bias light on.+
2pt low green -22 with full calibration, gamma 2.3 at 5ire rising to 2.4 at 95 ire
Brightness 52 with sim sub brightness 2.7 = 18 just visible in bat cave with no glow 0%
No 2 pt used only 20 pt full cal same results as above .
Which ever way the it's done the gap between 0% black and 17 is no existent on 2 c6 and 5 e6 I have owned.
18 is the best possible with no glow .
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post #1652 of 1684 Old 06-05-2017, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by pazman2000 View Post
2pt low green -22 with full calibration, gamma 2.3 at 5ire rising to 2.4 at 95 ire
Brightness 52 with sim sub brightness 2.7 = 18 just visible in bat cave with no glow 0%
No 2 pt used only 20 pt full cal same results as above .
Which ever way the it's done the gap between 0% black and 17 is no existent on 2 c6 and 5 e6 I have owned.
18 is the best possible with no glow .
well you have to aske D-Nice or somebody who knows how to calibrate this oled,but 18 bar showing is not bad,like i said on my B6 18 bar i need brightness 54 and that will glow like a son of ..... i tell you.

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post #1653 of 1684 Old 06-05-2017, 04:12 PM
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Think I'm going to try calibrating from gamma 2.2. At default settings on 2.2, there is still some crush, but it's way better than default BT1886. What I did before is start with BT and shoot for a 2.3 gamma. This time, I will start with 2.2 and leave 5% luminance as is. Everything from 10 IRE on up I'll try for a 2.3 power law. I watch in the dark and the 2.2 gamma setting seems a tad to bright OOTB, but that could be because it's not really 2.2. The BT and 2.4 settings OOTB measured too dark on my TV, but somewhere around 2.3 looks pretty nice, IMO.
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post #1654 of 1684 Old 06-05-2017, 04:16 PM
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2.2 looks too washed out to me so I think you'll only get better results if you increase it. I start at about 2.3 and move on up to 2.4 very quickly.
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post #1655 of 1684 Old 06-05-2017, 04:25 PM
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Think I'm going to try calibrating from gamma 2.2. At default settings on 2.2, there is still some crush, but it's way better than default BT1886. What I did before is start with BT and shoot for a 2.3 gamma. This time, I will start with 2.2 and leave 5% luminance as is. Everything from 10 IRE on up I'll try for a 2.3 power law. I watch in the dark and the 2.2 gamma setting seems a tad to bright OOTB, but that could be because it's not really 2.2. The BT and 2.4 settings OOTB measured too dark on my TV, but somewhere around 2.3 looks pretty nice, IMO.

Check out @chadb 's post, point 9:

***Official B/C/E/G6P OLED Calibration Thread

- Rich
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post #1656 of 1684 Old 06-05-2017, 04:41 PM
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Check out @chadb 's post, point 9:

***Official B/C/E/G6P OLED Calibration Thread

- Rich
Yep, good post. I think that's where I got the original idea.
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post #1657 of 1684 Old 06-05-2017, 06:36 PM
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Yep, good post. I think that's where I got the original idea.
@chadb calibrated my B6 using this method and it came out great.

- Rich
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post #1658 of 1684 Old 06-05-2017, 06:46 PM
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@chadb calibrated my B6 using this method and it came out great.

- Rich
Looks good so far. I switched to gamma 2.2 and had to lower luminances across the board (except at 5 IRE). I have an excel sheet that I used to get the values for a 2.3 power law, and it came out pretty close according to HCFR. There is a definite difference below 5%. When I was using BT1886, I had to raise the luminance at 5%, but there was still a lot of black crush. Raising luminance too much down there (like more than 5 or 10 clicks) seemed to cause artifacts.

I pulled up the near-black pattern that floating around in the forum (made by whizzwig, I think). It looks much better now.
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post #1659 of 1684 Old 06-05-2017, 10:14 PM
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2pt low green -22 with full calibration, gamma 2.3 at 5ire rising to 2.4 at 95 ire
Brightness 52 with sim sub brightness 2.7 = 18 just visible in bat cave with no glow 0%
No 2 pt used only 20 pt full cal same results as above .
Which ever way the it's done the gap between 0% black and 17 is no existent on 2 c6 and 5 e6 I have owned.
18 is the best possible with no glow .
well you have to aske D-Nice or somebody who knows how to calibrate this oled,but 18 bar showing is not bad,like i said on my B6 18 bar i need brightness 54 and that will glow like a son of ..... i tell you.
I'm confident that 18 with no glow is as good as I can get on 2016 oleds I have seen here in the UK, The sets D Nice is working on must work differently if he has 17 visible without glow on 0% m

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post #1660 of 1684 Old 06-06-2017, 04:51 AM
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I'm confident that 18 with no glow is as good as you can get on 2016 oleds I have seen here in the UK, The sets D Nice is working in must work differently if he has 17 visible without glow on 0%
That seems legit to me. Even using my modified 2.2 gamma, 17 is still pretty much gone. Maybe if I stare at the screen from a foot away with dark-adjusted eyes, I can see a hint of it, but effectively, 18 is the lower limit. If I load up an 1% window, it's barely visible. The only way for me to make 17 visible is by raising brightness to the point that I lose perfect black.

Gamma 1.9 might work, although I didn't try it. Even if it does, it's way too washed out for a dark room.
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post #1661 of 1684 Old 06-06-2017, 07:41 AM
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Notes for your calibrator....

Set the 2pt Low controls as follows:

R: 0
G: -12
B: 0

For the 2pt High control subtract RGB from the grayscale, not add.

Once your calibrator has done the above, use the 20 point controls to adjust the grayscale. They can add RGB to the grayscale with the 20 point controls if they like.
Thanks for this post! I recently bought a 65 inch B6 OLED, and I tried to calibrate it. I succeeded in finding neutral whites with a 2 point adjustment (too much green before). I did it with gains in red and blue leaving green alone so as to not accidentally mess with gamma. My blacks were no longer black, how upsetting! Until I read this post I thought I would need to choose between good grayscale tracking and perfect blacks. After reading the post I realized that green was no longer to be left alone and I had to recalibrate by cuts and not gains. Now I have my blacks and good grayscale!

I might need to hire a professional calibrator anyway because I have no idea how to calibrate hdr.
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post #1662 of 1684 Old 06-06-2017, 08:09 AM
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I'm confident that 18 with no glow is as good as you can get on 2016 oleds I have seen here in the UK, The sets D Nice is working in must work differently if he has 17 visible without glow on 0%
That seems legit to me. Even using my modified 2.2 gamma, 17 is still pretty much gone. Maybe if I stare at the screen from a foot away with dark-adjusted eyes, I can see a hint of it, but effectively, 18 is the lower limit. If I load up an 1% window, it's barely visible. The only way for me to make 17 visible is by raising brightness to the point that I lose perfect black.

Gamma 1.9 might work, although I didn't try it. Even if it does, it's way too washed out for a dark room.
I have tried 1.9,2.2,2.3 and 2.4 along with service menu sub brightness tweaks but still a glow is seen in a bat cave once your eyes have adjusted if 17 is visible.
Granted if there is any light at all in the room no matter how dim or on the screen in content the screen looks true black , I watch my programs/films late at night and in pitch black and when a full black screen is shown I don't want to see it glowing.
I have calibrated exp1 with 17 visible and exp2 18 just visible before to compare the difference, Switching between the two the difference is minimal .
To have 17 visible would be nice but not at the cost of perfect black .

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post #1663 of 1684 Old 06-06-2017, 08:45 AM
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On my B6 EU,only way to get to show 17 is brightness 55 but then it will also show 16 so it is impossible to show bar 17,same goes for to show bar 18 to without the glow,brightness 54 bar 18,but then it's glow city.I think the EU and US are different,because even with my calibrated settings and brightness 53 i can almost see bar 19.So either have to chose shadow details and glow city or crush and no glow but then bar 24-25 is only thing showing on my pattern and I am losing a lot of shadow details.

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post #1664 of 1684 Old 06-06-2017, 11:03 PM
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Thanks for this post! I recently bought a 65 inch B6 OLED, and I tried to calibrate it. I succeeded in finding neutral whites with a 2 point adjustment (too much green before). I did it with gains in red and blue leaving green alone so as to not accidentally mess with gamma. My blacks were no longer black, how upsetting! Until I read this post I thought I would need to choose between good grayscale tracking and perfect blacks. After reading the post I realized that green was no longer to be left alone and I had to recalibrate by cuts and not gains. Now I have my blacks and good grayscale!

I might need to hire a professional calibrator anyway because I have no idea how to calibrate hdr.
Aren't you like an hour away from me???
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post #1665 of 1684 Old 06-07-2017, 08:12 AM
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Aren't you like an hour away from me???
Oh wait yes! I'll send you a PM.
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post #1666 of 1684 Old 06-10-2017, 08:13 AM
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A new update related to my earlier post of this thread with post-verification measurement results taking 10-Point Saturation runs using various luminance levels: ***Official B/C/E/G6P OLED Calibration Thread

For users to get an idea of how dE can look with 8-bit RGB value emulation of the measured color vs. target color for each measurement, below there are 10-Point Saturation @ 25/50/75/100% Color Comparator Charts to see if you can spot the dE differences. As you can see while the CIE Chart measurements with 3D LUT are not looking perfect at 25% Luminance levels (because LG suffer with big problem there), in real content it will look perfect. The upper half which says (Actual) is the measured color converted to RGB and the (Target) is the reference (0dE) color in RGB also.

10-Point Saturation (100% Stimulus Level) - LG Internal Controls Calibration vs. eeColor 3D LUT Box:



10-Point Saturation (75% Stimulus Level) - LG Internal Controls Calibration vs. eeColor 3D LUT Box:



10-Point Saturation (50% Stimulus Level) - LG Internal Controls Calibration vs. eeColor 3D LUT Box:



10-Point Saturation (25% Stimulus Level) - LG Internal Controls Calibration vs. eeColor 3D LUT Box:



LightSpace software I used fixed everything which it was possible to be fixed and it will not try to apply an extreme correction of a color which will provide distortion/banding compared to nearby colors aiming to get you low dE report but noticed problems with real content beyond charts.
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V/P: eeColor 3D LUT Box - P/G: DVDO AVLab TPG
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post #1667 of 1684 Old 06-11-2017, 12:57 PM
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Has anyone done a tutorial on adjusting the CMS?

I have begun calibrating my OLED65B6P earlier this year. I have used both HCFR and DisplayCal to get a feel for what's involved: I have learned a lot. I have gone with an eeColor 3D LUT box for 1080p devices, and it produces terrific results (thank you, Ted, for all your help along the way).

Next up is calibrating one of my inputs that I plan to use with a UHD blu-ray player. I have followed a lot of the pointers I have received from fellow members on this thread, and the results are pretty good. In the past, when I attempted to adjust the CMS, it generated more trouble than it was worth. Since others have reported good results in adjusting the CMS, I want to give it another try.

Has anyone posted a 'how-to adjust your LG OLED CMS' tutorial, and if so, can you please point me to it? In return, I promise to post whatever I learned, and perhaps that will help the people down the road.

Thank you in advance...be well
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post #1668 of 1684 Old 06-12-2017, 12:19 AM
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In the past, when I attempted to adjust the CMS, it generated more trouble than it was worth.
That is true for colour red for sure. However I have found that at least saturation of green and hue of cyan and blue can be adjusted without visible negative side-effects. My set (55B6V) needs a little green tint (G2) to get skin colour better but that warps cyan towards blue. Also blue is a bit magenta flavored and green is undersaturated.

It´s funny that according to HCFR light skin tones are oversaturated and CalMAN finds them undersaturated so I`m settled with 48 for colour. Dark skin tones are oversaturated and I guess it`s due poor gamut tracking at lower luminance levels.
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JVC DLA-X35BE, PS3, Apple TV3, Yamaha RX-V383, Tannoy Mercury F2, Tannoy Mercury F1, BK Monolith

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post #1669 of 1684 Old 06-12-2017, 01:28 AM
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That is true for colour red for sure. However I have found that at least saturation of green and hue of cyan and blue can be adjusted without visible negative side-effects. My set (55B6V) needs a little green tint (G2) to get skin colour better but that warps cyan towards blue. Also blue is a bit magenta flavored and green is undersaturated.

It´s funny that according to HCFR light skin tones are oversaturated and CalMAN finds them undersaturated so I`m settled with 48 for colour. Dark skin tones are oversaturated and I guess it`s due poor gamut tracking at lower luminance levels.
Hi. be sure that you are using the same meter table, the same target gamma and dE method, when you compare dE between 2 different software.

Also you have to use the exact same patterns.

HCFR has CalMAN ColorChecker SG Skintones colorlist which Zoyd added at past to give compatibility for my calibration disk with CalMAN Chapters, I have posted instructions there how to enable the CalMAN ColorChecker SG Skintones measurement here: Ted's LightSpace CMS Calibration Disk

Ted's LightSpace CMS Calibration Disk Free Version for Free Calibration Software: LightSpace DPS / CalMAN ColorChecker / HCFR
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post #1670 of 1684 Old 06-12-2017, 11:36 AM
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I'm fairly new to this, but I'm working on calibrating my C6 for SDR (and hopefully HDR eventually). I've got an i1 Display 3/Pro and a macbook pro. I've got a very slight uniformity issue where the center line of the tv is slightly greener than the right or left edges. I did a very crude measurement (take a picture, extract the RGB values from different areas of the screen, and calculate the dE's), and there is a maximum of dE=2.38 between the middle and edges. This is slightly noticeable on 100% grayscale fields, but not on actual images/videos except in extreme cases (e.g. Fellowship of the Ring, where everyone is exiting the mines and the image washes out to almost uniform white for a few moments).

Since my colorimeter can only measure one spot on the screen at a time, will this variation significantly affect the accuracy of my calibration? If so, is it worth performing extra steps like applying/generating a correction file in HCFR, or would the white variance obscure any improvement made by those efforts?
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post #1671 of 1684 Old 06-15-2017, 10:43 AM
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Since my colorimeter can only measure one spot on the screen at a time, will this variation significantly affect the accuracy of my calibration? If so, is it worth performing extra steps like applying/generating a correction file in HCFR, or would the white variance obscure any improvement made by those efforts?
I'm a newbie too, still waiting to find a deal on an i1 Display Pro, so take this as a rookie opinion: Maybe place the colorimeter in the in-between zone to average out the variance?

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post #1672 of 1684 Old 06-15-2017, 11:01 AM
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I'm fairly new to this, but I'm working on calibrating my C6 for SDR (and hopefully HDR eventually). I've got an i1 Display 3/Pro and a macbook pro. I've got a very slight uniformity issue where the center line of the tv is slightly greener than the right or left edges. I did a very crude measurement (take a picture, extract the RGB values from different areas of the screen, and calculate the dE's), and there is a maximum of dE=2.38 between the middle and edges. This is slightly noticeable on 100% grayscale fields, but not on actual images/videos except in extreme cases (e.g. Fellowship of the Ring, where everyone is exiting the mines and the image washes out to almost uniform white for a few moments).

Since my colorimeter can only measure one spot on the screen at a time, will this variation significantly affect the accuracy of my calibration? If so, is it worth performing extra steps like applying/generating a correction file in HCFR, or would the white variance obscure any improvement made by those efforts?
I had that same problem on my first a 930.
I spent many hours trying to calibrate it to its best .
I also had a dE of about 2.5 between centre green against the sides which were not tinted .
Firstly if you can return it do it , tinting is not acceptable on a 2016 oled , I had 2 c6 and they had no tint at all .
If not you could calibrate the largest none tinted area , I would say a third of my 930 was tinted green so I calibrated the other larger 2 thirds that were not tinted .
Or as your tint is in the centre and th focal point of the screen you could calibrated it there , but don't think do that the green will lessen .
No matter which way I did it nothing lessend the green tint .
I think I ended up keeping and using the calibration of the 2 thirds untainted calibration.
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post #1673 of 1684 Old 06-15-2017, 03:25 PM
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Since my colorimeter can only measure one spot on the screen at a time, will this variation significantly affect the accuracy of my calibration? If so, is it worth performing extra steps like applying/generating a correction file in HCFR, or would the white variance obscure any improvement made by those efforts?
Why not move your meter far enough away from the screen to capture the entire screen within your meter's FOV?
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post #1674 of 1684 Old 06-17-2017, 06:47 AM
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Can CMS settings fail to reset?

I am attempting to adjust the CMS on my OLED65B6P. After my initial changes, things looked worse, so I manually returned the Color, tint, and luminance settings back to what they were before these adjustments.

When I did a re-measure to make sure I was back to the starting point, the results were not back. I measured several times, cycled power on the set, but I could not get back to my original measurements.

Has anyone seen this behavior? What would you recommend I try?

Thank you in advance...
Ron

PS - Does the 'reset' command only affect the color settings for the selected mode (eg, expert dark) or does it rest all settings for an input (eg, HDMI 2)
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post #1675 of 1684 Old 06-18-2017, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by thyman View Post
I'm fairly new to this, but I'm working on calibrating my C6 for SDR (and hopefully HDR eventually). I've got an i1 Display 3/Pro and a macbook pro. I've got a very slight uniformity issue where the center line of the tv is slightly greener than the right or left edges. I did a very crude measurement (take a picture, extract the RGB values from different areas of the screen, and calculate the dE's), and there is a maximum of dE=2.38 between the middle and edges. This is slightly noticeable on 100% grayscale fields, but not on actual images/videos except in extreme cases (e.g. Fellowship of the Ring, where everyone is exiting the mines and the image washes out to almost uniform white for a few moments).

Since my colorimeter can only measure one spot on the screen at a time, will this variation significantly affect the accuracy of my calibration? If so, is it worth performing extra steps like applying/generating a correction file in HCFR, or would the white variance obscure any improvement made by those efforts?
I just put my meter at the center of the screen and cal'd there. My screen seemed fairly good as far as tinting. It's probably not going to be perfect no matter where you place it. I guess I could see taking readings at several spots being helpful, but doing just one spot took me long enough. I didn't want to spend tons of time for minimal improvements.

My biggest unknown is the meter calibration. My i1 is not profiled for OLED, so I just used the nonrefresh display mode. It seems pretty close...much better than the OOTB ISF dark. For whatever reason, my panel was pushing green quite a bit.
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post #1676 of 1684 Old 06-18-2017, 08:14 PM
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Also, quick question about the color setting: I've read that the blue filter method doesn't really work on these. Should I just leave color at the default of 50?
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post #1677 of 1684 Old 06-18-2017, 10:57 PM
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Hi I've been having issues calibrating using the measures tab of HFCR with RGB and then trying to tune the gamma in after. Gamma seems to keep changing when I switch from measures tab to gamma tab for some strange reason so I calibrated just using the gamma chart. Dialling in RGB and gamma all at the same time. Picture looks great and all Delta errors under 1. Any opinion on why this is a bad way of calibrating as I've never read anyone doing it this way before?
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post #1678 of 1684 Old 06-19-2017, 05:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Overrid3 View Post
Also, quick question about the color setting: I've read that the blue filter method doesn't really work on these. Should I just leave color at the default of 50?
Hi, using any blue filter is a waste of time, CMS Calibration is not possible by only looking build in filters or by any type of $1 filter that is coming with disks or by photographic use quality and more expensive ones (Rosco E-Colour Tokyo Blue #071 or Lee Sheet Colour Filter #071 Tokyo or Kodak Deep Blue Tricolor #47B).

Blue Filter Glasses are useless for displays other than CRT.

Blue filters used before 10-15 years mainly for CRT Displays where only Color/Tint controls were available for CMS; the calibration software/meter access were so limited and so expensive.....now in 2017 you can get an amazing for the performance colorimeter like X-Rite's i1Display PRO and by using an open source software for free (like HCFR or LightSpace DPS), there is no reason to use any blue filter anymore.

Now most of the displays are coming with 6-Axis CMS controls.

Blue filters (on CRT) can work where for example the Red Primary is fully saturated and have no blue or green...blue primary has no green or red etc....But a fully saturated Primary needs to have the other 2 primaries added to be able to de-saturated it to it's target....so viewing thru the blue filter you will have light coming from all three primaries and this will make it's blue filter purpose of matching the luminance method no longer work.

When you have meter/software and have performed a color gamut calibratio will full CMS internal controls or via external way using a 3D LUT Box like eeColor, look throu the blue filter....you will see that it will look so bad. Blue filters designed to work for display that their primaries are tracking REC.709, now all modern displays have wider gamut coverage from REC.709, this is another one reason that Blue Filter is not worth it to use nowadays.

Ted's LightSpace CMS Calibration Disk Free Version for Free Calibration Software: LightSpace DPS / CalMAN ColorChecker / HCFR
S/W: LightSpace CMS, SpaceMan ICC, SpaceMatch DCM, CalMAN 5, CalMAN RGB, ChromaPure, ControlCAL
V/P: eeColor 3D LUT Box - P/G: DVDO AVLab TPG
Meters: JETI Specbos 1211, Klein K-10A, i1PRO2, i1PRO, SpectraCAL C6, i1D3, C5
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post #1679 of 1684 Old 06-19-2017, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
Hi, using any blue filter is a waste of time, CMS Calibration is not possible by only looking build in filters or by any type of $1 filter that is coming with disks or by photographic use quality and more expensive ones (Rosco E-Colour Tokyo Blue #071 or Lee Sheet Colour Filter #071 Tokyo or Kodak Deep Blue Tricolor #47B).

Blue Filter Glasses are useless for displays other than CRT.

Blue filters used before 10-15 years mainly for CRT Displays where only Color/Tint controls were available for CMS; the calibration software/meter access were so limited and so expensive.....now in 2017 you can get an amazing for the performance colorimeter like X-Rite's i1Display PRO and by using an open source software for free (like HCFR or LightSpace DPS), there is no reason to use any blue filter anymore.

Now most of the displays are coming with 6-Axis CMS controls.

Blue filters (on CRT) can work where for example the Red Primary is fully saturated and have no blue or green...blue primary has no green or red etc....But a fully saturated Primary needs to have the other 2 primaries added to be able to de-saturated it to it's target....so viewing thru the blue filter you will have light coming from all three primaries and this will make it's blue filter purpose of matching the luminance method no longer work.

When you have meter/software and have performed a color gamut calibratio will full CMS internal controls or via external way using a 3D LUT Box like eeColor, look throu the blue filter....you will see that it will look so bad. Blue filters designed to work for display that their primaries are tracking REC.709, now all modern displays have wider gamut coverage from REC.709, this is another one reason that Blue Filter is not worth it to use nowadays.
Thanks. So if I'm not planning on messing with the CMS, probably best to just leave color at 50?
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post #1680 of 1684 Old 06-20-2017, 06:04 PM
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I stumbled upon a calibration setup for a G6 on YouTube by AVForums. Has anyone personally used these settings? I don't have the tools to calibrate my unit so I may try these if they look good to you guys.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=...&v=LmZdrSG5N44


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