***Official B/C/E/G6P OLED Calibration Thread - Page 63 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1861 of 1960 Old 08-09-2017, 10:54 AM
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I'd like to calibrate my 65B6P beyond what I can do today by eye with a calibration Blu-ray and a color filter. What do you recommend for an amateur calibrator just starting out?

i1Display Pro and CalMAN Home Enthusiast or is that overkill?

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post #1862 of 1960 Old 08-09-2017, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpmurr View Post
I'd like to calibrate my 65B6P beyond what I can do today by eye with a calibration Blu-ray and a color filter. What do you recommend for an amateur calibrator just starting out?

i1Display Pro and CalMAN Home Enthusiast or is that overkill?
Color filters such as the blue filter don't work properly with OLED. You can do other calibrations with color but the blue filter method wouldn't be accurate

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post #1863 of 1960 Old 08-09-2017, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpmurr View Post
I'd like to calibrate my 65B6P beyond what I can do today by eye with a calibration Blu-ray and a color filter. What do you recommend for an amateur calibrator just starting out?

i1Display Pro and CalMAN Home Enthusiast or is that overkill?
I use ChromaPure and the i1Display pro. ChromaPure is relatively inexpensive and their customer service is very quick to respond to any inquires but HFCR is free and has a lot of traffic in its calibration thread so someone will be able to answer your questions.

OLED's seem to need to be coddled, you have to take them out, warm them up, and get them comfortable before they let you inside to calibrate them.

I suggest you move your OLED into a padded room the first couple of runs until you get the hang of it. You may want to break something.
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post #1864 of 1960 Old 08-09-2017, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Jrocker23 View Post
Color filters such as the blue filter don't work properly with OLED. You can do other calibrations with color but the blue filter method wouldn't be accurate

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Which gets back to my original question. What does one need?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jayraysaiz View Post
I use ChromaPure and the i1Display pro. ChromaPure is relatively inexpensive and their customer service is very quick to respond to any inquires but HFCR is free and has a lot of traffic in its calibration thread so someone will be able to answer your questions.

OLED's seem to need to be coddled, you have to take them out, warm them up, and get them comfortable before they let you inside to calibrate them.
Thanks, I'll give them a look. Would you say ChromaPure is any easier or harder to work with for an amateur than CalMAN? I could always start with my P Series or X850C.

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post #1865 of 1960 Old 08-09-2017, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpmurr View Post
Which gets back to my original question. What does one need?
I will leave that up to the pros here. I wouldn't know where to start. I am looking to pay for a calibration

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post #1866 of 1960 Old 08-09-2017, 11:10 AM
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***Official B/C/E/G6P OLED Calibration Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by bpmurr View Post
Which gets back to my original question. What does one need?







Thanks! I'll give them a look. Would you say ChromaPure is any easier or harder to work with for an amateur than CalMAN?


I haven't used CalMAN but I did consider it. I like pretty pictures.....so being able to generate a report for pre-calibration and post calibration I opted for ChromaPure.



I am in about ~$430 and a tad more once I get the UHD calibration disc. I am not experienced by any means but the test runs I have been able to make have greatly improved issues I had with less than adequate satellite and streaming feeds.



I have the HDR10 USB files but I can't test out the UHD player to TV link since the files will not play through my UHD player's usb.

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post #1867 of 1960 Old 08-09-2017, 11:17 AM
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I use HCFR and an i1Pro Display on my OLED.

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post #1868 of 1960 Old 08-09-2017, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by dschlic1 View Post
I use HCFR and an i1Pro Display on my OLED.
Do you use the oled profile from HCFR or non refresh ? I got a Sony A1 and i'am not sure which profile would work best...Thanks
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post #1869 of 1960 Old 08-10-2017, 12:41 AM
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Jesus christ guys, FINALLY, dont know what the hell i did but for FIRST TIME i was able to touch the 20 points of HDR CALIBRATION

Settings on service menu -> Sub Brightness 126
Settings -> Brightness 52, contrast 99

The 127 cannot be touched, because it lead to huge tint, so it will be at DE 18 aprox. , but the rest of the HDR can be touched, i finished with a D.E of 2.40... FROM 20!, So i'm so happy that finally i've been able to calibrate the HDR (it's been a real pain in the ass, because on the latest codes, you have to be careful because if not, it gets tinted on the grayscale ramp), now it's perfect ñ___ñ

Maybe it was aligned now because of the new 05.30.10 firmware?

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post #1870 of 1960 Old 08-10-2017, 04:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camacho8 View Post
Do you use the oled profile from HCFR or non refresh ? I got a Sony A1 and i'am not sure which profile would work best...Thanks
People have said not to use the OLED profile in HCFR since it's not accurate for LG. I got good results using non refresh, but I got even better results (to my eyes) using this profile I found on the SpectraCal website. Some created it using an i1d3, i1 Pro 2 and the LG C6.
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post #1871 of 1960 Old 08-10-2017, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 256k View Post
Jesus christ guys, FINALLY, dont know what the hell i did but for FIRST TIME i was able to touch the 20 points of HDR CALIBRATION

Settings on service menu -> Sub Brightness 126
Settings -> Brightness 53, contrast 86, or 87? not in home right now (to keep the pure black while having all the grayscale)

The 127 cannot be touched, because it lead to huge tint, so it will be at DE 18 aprox. , but the rest of the HDR can be touched, i finished with a D.E of 2.40... FROM 20!, So i'm so happy that finally i've been able to calibrate the HDR (it's been a real pain in the ass, because on the latest codes, you have to be careful because if not, it gets tinted on the grayscale ramp), now it's perfect ñ___ñ

Maybe it was aligned now because of the new 05.30.10 firmware?
I thought the brightness setting was to be left alone for HDR due to the tone mapping algorithm. Is this something I miss read? I've been reading the Near Black thread and a lot of people are adjusting the Sub-Brightness to a lower value. Would this not have an adverse affect on HDR content?

It seems the Sub-Brightness is to help near black/noise issues in less than quality feeds for SDR.

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post #1872 of 1960 Old 08-10-2017, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayraysaiz View Post
I thought the brightness setting was to be left alone for HDR due to the tone mapping algorithm. Is this something I miss read? I've been reading the Near Black thread and a lot of people are adjusting the Sub-Brightness to a lower value. Would this not have an adverse affect on HDR content?

It seems the Sub-Brightness is to help near black/noise issues in less than quality feeds for SDR.
Sub-brightness makes the TV even darker (thats why it fix the glow), so to have the HDR back to50 i had to put it to 52, BTW i fixed the data i put there, it wasnt 53/87, it was 52/99
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post #1873 of 1960 Old 08-11-2017, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayraysaiz View Post
I thought the brightness setting was to be left alone for HDR due to the tone mapping algorithm. Is this something I miss read? I've been reading the Near Black thread and a lot of people are adjusting the Sub-Brightness to a lower value. Would this not have an adverse affect on HDR content?

It seems the Sub-Brightness is to help near black/noise issues in less than quality feeds for SDR.

Correct, and since tone mapping is 100% internal there is no way to confirm that something isn't screwy after changing sub brightness. Hard to say for sure watching real content, as no tv can hit all the parameters of HDR. What's it supposed to look like in the first place.
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post #1874 of 1960 Old 08-13-2017, 09:45 AM
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Anyone know a reason why near-black could go nonlinear? I'm still playing around with my gamma cal a bit, and I've noticed that changing brightness just one click throws off the near-black bars. At brightness 50, things look good (each one slowly increases in brightness). If I go one click higher to 51, some bars will be brighter than the next. For example, bar 19 will be brighter than 20.
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post #1875 of 1960 Old 08-14-2017, 05:35 AM
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I think I've gotten my near-blacks about as good as I can. I figured out how to emulate Chad B's 2.35 sliding power curve using HCFR, although I'm not sure why it's called 2.35 because gamma never reaches that number. I aimed for the gamma values mentioned here:

***Official B/C/E/G6P OLED Calibration Thread

His curve starts with 2.21 at 5 IRE and tops out around 2.33 at the high end. I was able to create a similar gamma target in HCFR, but the big disappointment is I can't seem to get gamma low enough at 5 IRE. Mine is around 2.27, which still isn't bad, IMO, just doesn't show as much shadow detail.

The problem I'm running into is near-black going non linear. I was able to create a really nice gamma curve with 5 IRE around 2.2, but near-black was wrong. Bar 19 was obviously brighter than bar 20. Near-blacks look good if I push brightness to 52, but then my screen glows. So, the best I could do is:

Brightness 51
OLED 30
gamma BT.1886 (tweaked from there)
luminance at 5 IRE +8

If 5 IRE luminance is at 0 to +6, near-blacks are not linear. At +7 to +8 it looks good, and at +9 it goes wacky again. These TVs are very finicky in the near-black region.

In graph below, yellow is my gamma, blue is reference.
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post #1876 of 1960 Old 08-14-2017, 06:04 AM
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@D-Nice

I believe I read a while ago that you discovered setting the Color Gamut to Extended and Color to 43 allowed full use of the CMS controls for the 2016's with artifacts or real content issues.

Am I making this up or is that accurate?

Thanks!

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post #1877 of 1960 Old 08-14-2017, 04:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Realize I haven't visited 'my' thread in a long time (and also that I'm being lazy), but I have a question for anyone who's had a meter on a 2016 WOLED recently:

What is the approximate 100% IRE output luminance on ISF Bright and ISF Dark with default settings?

I know that getting OLED Light down in the 30-40 range (with Contrast at default of 85) get 100% IRE down into the 120-150cs/m2 range, but I forget what 100% IRE ouput results from leaving OLED Light at default in the two ISF modes (at least one of which has OLED Light at 80).

Thanks.
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post #1878 of 1960 Old 08-14-2017, 04:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpmurr View Post
I'd like to calibrate my 65B6P beyond what I can do today by eye with a calibration Blu-ray and a color filter. What do you recommend for an amateur calibrator just starting out?

i1Display Pro and CalMAN Home Enthusiast or is that overkill?
Overkill.

Start with HCFR - better to learn the basics with and if you end up deciding that you need more handholding, you can always move to CalMAN or Chrompure in a next step...
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post #1879 of 1960 Old 08-14-2017, 08:05 PM
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I was able to get a better BT curve while still keeping near-blacks correct. If I used the wrong combination of settings (brightness, luminance at 5 IRE, etc.) the black bars can get brighter in the wrong order, so that's something to watch out for.
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post #1880 of 1960 Old 08-18-2017, 09:45 AM
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i've done something weird, used 1.9 as base, then lowered from 10-100 IRE luminances to match 2.20, but my IRE 5 has 2.40 gamma and still i have the entire grayscale, not to say that the image now has a "pop" that it's incredible, since black levels are perfect but at the same time, really dark
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post #1881 of 1960 Old 08-18-2017, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 256k View Post
i've done something weird, used 1.9 as base, then lowered from 10-100 IRE luminances to match 2.20, but my IRE 5 has 2.40 gamma and still i have the entire grayscale, not to say that the image now has a "pop" that it's incredible, since black levels are perfect but at the same time, really dark
Wouldn't it be better of 5 IRE was at 2.2, and 10-100 were at 2.4?
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post #1882 of 1960 Old 08-19-2017, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Overrid3 View Post
Wouldn't it be better of 5 IRE was at 2.2, and 10-100 were at 2.4?
Since IRE 5 is the one that controls all the shadow detail, no, for me it is better that IRE 5 is the darker one, thats why the image gets so much pop because of the depth

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post #1883 of 1960 Old 08-19-2017, 11:32 AM
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Since IRE 5 is the one that controls all the shadow detail, no, for me it is better that IRE 5 is the darker one, thats why the image gets so much pop because of the depth
That's the opposite of the usual BT.1886 curve, but if you like it, then glad it's working. If I set my 5 IRE to 2.4 gamma, I get black crush like a mofo.
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post #1884 of 1960 Old 08-20-2017, 03:05 AM
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just a few notes:

Yesterday i noticed on LOGAN that there was a few scenes insanely dark on HDR, i put the Blu-ray and those scenes were really bright, it was then when i noticed that the HDR Standard was too dark for black levels, it wasnt bright, so after touching the calibration again, i've found that to make HDR look as it should (dark but VISIBLE) and bright as it was, we're forced to use Dynamic Contrast to LOW (not more), when using LOW + calibrated i got under 3.5D.E (IRE 127 cant be fixed) on HDR and that scene on logan now looks like on Blu-ray but with the HDR darkness/brightness (Because trust me, without that Dynamic contrast LOW, the scene was so dark that i cannot see some places of the room because of that)

Last edited by 256k; 08-20-2017 at 04:02 AM.
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post #1885 of 1960 Old 08-22-2017, 12:28 PM
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Guys did LG ever release the Dolby Vision master file for DV calibration?

Thanks

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post #1886 of 1960 Old 08-23-2017, 01:14 PM
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I ended up going with the i1Display Pro (Retail Rev. B) and CalMAN Home Enthusiast. I'm getting ridiculously low Gamma readings .7-.9 which I know aren't right. My LCD displays are reading in line with what I'd expect. I'm using MobileForge on an iPad as my pattern source. Anything special I need to do when measuring Gamma on an OLED? Maybe a calibration of the meter itself?

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post #1887 of 1960 Old 08-23-2017, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpmurr View Post
I ended up going with the i1Display Pro (Retail Rev. B) and CalMAN Home Enthusiast. I'm getting ridiculously low Gamma readings .7-.9 which I know aren't right. My LCD displays are reading in line with what I'd expect. I'm using MobileForge on an iPad as my pattern source. Anything special I need to do when measuring Gamma on an OLED? Maybe a calibration of the meter itself?
Can you post a picture of the measurement results?


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post #1888 of 1960 Old 08-23-2017, 07:46 PM
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Guys did LG ever release the Dolby Vision master file for DV calibration?

Thanks
Nope. And AFAIK, they have no plans to

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post #1889 of 1960 Old 08-23-2017, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 256k View Post
just a few notes:

Yesterday i noticed on LOGAN that there was a few scenes insanely dark on HDR, i put the Blu-ray and those scenes were really bright, it was then when i noticed that the HDR Standard was too dark for black levels, it wasnt bright, so after touching the calibration again, i've found that to make HDR look as it should (dark but VISIBLE) and bright as it was, we're forced to use Dynamic Contrast to LOW (not more), when using LOW + calibrated i got under 3.5D.E (IRE 127 cant be fixed) on HDR and that scene on logan now looks like on Blu-ray but with the HDR darkness/brightness (Because trust me, without that Dynamic contrast LOW, the scene was so dark that i cannot see some places of the room because of that)
It sounds like there is something wrong with your settings or even TV, judging by your crushed blacks for Logan and the crushed blacks you are experiencing for DV titles per your thread in the OLED section.

FWIW, I do not use Dynamic Contrast at all and Logan looks great to me with HDR Standard.

Also, do not use the SDR Blu-ray scene of a movie to make HDR look the same. Just don't do it

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post #1890 of 1960 Old 08-23-2017, 11:22 PM
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Also, do not use the SDR Blu-ray scene of a movie to make HDR look the same. Just don't do it
The scene from the dinner with that family, just when they end, i know i should not take SDR in consideration 100%, but does not look more dimmer to you?, The rest looks perfect

The only thing i've touched on my tv was the sub-brightness to correct the glow, but i see all black levels perfectly on HDR, the problem is that scene, that looks so dimm that is hard to see some details that are revealed with the DC

Last edited by 256k; 08-23-2017 at 11:27 PM.
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