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post #1 of 20 Old 04-13-2017, 10:55 PM - Thread Starter
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1080p24HZ Help

My system

OLED LG 55EG9100

OPPO BDP 103

YAMAHA RXV481

Question

I keep hearing about how1080p24fps is the only way to watch blu-rays and how it's the way it's meant to be and all that. I also hear that tru motion and other "soap opera" effect causing settings make TV look horrible. My blu-ray player is set to output 1080p24, and all motion interpolation settings are off on the TV, yet to me the picture still has that same unnatural smoothness that people describe as the soap opera effect.

Am I doing something wrong? Does 1080p24 look strange to other people too? I want to like it because the picture is so clear, but it just seems so fake and almost like its slightly fast forwarding . Any help with settings I may need to tinker with would be great.
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post #2 of 20 Old 04-14-2017, 01:30 AM
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It is quite possible that you simply don't like the way a 24Hz image looks.
If that is the case then by all means try using the motion controls on your TV as you may find that preferable.

Calibrators, reviewers and industry professionals recommend watching the image this way because it is the closest representation of the oringinal material.
You have posted in the display calibration forum so this standard advice will be upheld by most users who post here.

Ultimately, it is your television and if you don't like the way Blu-rays look at 24Hz experiment with some alternatives.

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post #3 of 20 Old 04-14-2017, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VG1385 View Post
My system

OLED LG 55EG9100

OPPO BDP 103

YAMAHA RXV481

Question

I keep hearing about how1080p24fps is the only way to watch blu-rays and how it's the way it's meant to be and all that. I also hear that tru motion and other "soap opera" effect causing settings make TV look horrible. My blu-ray player is set to output 1080p24, and all motion interpolation settings are off on the TV, yet to me the picture still has that same unnatural smoothness that people describe as the soap opera effect.

Am I doing something wrong? Does 1080p24 look strange to other people too? I want to like it because the picture is so clear, but it just seems so fake and almost like its slightly fast forwarding . Any help with settings I may need to tinker with would be great.
Turn the "Real Cinema" setting on so that the tv knows to process the 24 fps signal correctly.
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post #4 of 20 Old 04-14-2017, 07:45 AM
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+1. I have an older LG and do exactly that. Turn off all artificial processing on the blu-ray player and the LG (disable TruMotion) and enable Real Cinema. 1080p/24Hz looks excellent on my LG. I have my LG set so that when I want to watch a DVD (blu-ray or standard), Real Cinema is always enabled.
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post #5 of 20 Old 04-14-2017, 10:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post
+1. I have an older LG and do exactly that. Turn off all artificial processing on the blu-ray player and the LG (disable TruMotion) and enable Real Cinema. 1080p/24Hz looks excellent on my LG. I have my LG set so that when I want to watch a DVD (blu-ray or standard), Real Cinema is always enabled.
Yeah, I have real cinema set to on. I don't doubt that it is possible that maybe I am so used to the 3:2 pull down method that 24hz looks a little bit odd to me after seeing movies a certain way for so many years. It's just that it seemed so close to the soap opera effect which is highly frowned upon in the home theater world that I thought maybe I was doing something wrong. Did anyone else feel the same way when they first experienced 24hz? Particularly what appeared to be slightly sped up and smooth motion. Is that to be expected?
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post #6 of 20 Old 04-15-2017, 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by VG1385 View Post
Yeah, I have real cinema set to on. I don't doubt that it is possible that maybe I am so used to the 3:2 pull down method that 24hz looks a little bit odd to me after seeing movies a certain way for so many years. It's just that it seemed so close to the soap opera effect which is highly frowned upon in the home theater world that I thought maybe I was doing something wrong. Did anyone else feel the same way when they first experienced 24hz? Particularly what appeared to be slightly sped up and smooth motion. Is that to be expected?
Hi, since LG OLED's are using 120Hz panels, they do 5:5 to the 24p signals, 3:2 pull-down used for 60Hz panels or for 120Hz which don't support 5:5.

Also see if your player is outputting 24p also.

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post #7 of 20 Old 04-15-2017, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by VG1385 View Post
Yeah, I have real cinema set to on. I don't doubt that it is possible that maybe I am so used to the 3:2 pull down method that 24hz looks a little bit odd to me after seeing movies a certain way for so many years. It's just that it seemed so close to the soap opera effect which is highly frowned upon in the home theater world that I thought maybe I was doing something wrong. Did anyone else feel the same way when they first experienced 24hz? Particularly what appeared to be slightly sped up and smooth motion. Is that to be expected?
Hmmm, I never noticed the SOE at all when viewing 24p Real Cinema, and I really played around with the settings when I first purchased my LG.
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post #8 of 20 Old 04-15-2017, 03:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, on the blu-ray player, I put the setting for 24p to forced so it always outputs that. Real Cinema on the LG TV is on and tru motion and all that other crap is turned off. Still there's this smoothness that just doesn't look natural, but at the same time there is less judder and "flicking" than when 24p is turned off (which I like). The smoothness is more noticeable on some movies than others. San Andreas with 24p on looks like a cartoon on my TV in some shots, but Casino Royale looks good.

Ive tried using source direct on my blu-ray player to bypass anything the player may be doing, but that artificial smoothing and "fast motion" look is still there.

I also have just scan turned on as well in case anyone thought it may be set to something else.
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post #9 of 20 Old 04-15-2017, 10:53 PM
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Turn on the motion interpolation at its max setting to give your eyes/brain a little shock treatment, keep it on for few minutes and then turn it off. Normal 24hz signal will suddenly look very unsmooth again.

Personally I always keep a little bit of motion interpolation on to add smoothness even if I get artifacts. I cannot stand 24fps because I see every individual frame in stop motion fashion (blame the years of very high FPS gaming). I kinda envy you that you are able to perceive low 24 framerates as smooth...

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post #10 of 20 Old 04-15-2017, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by VG1385 View Post
Yeah, on the blu-ray player, I put the setting for 24p to forced so it always outputs that. Real Cinema on the LG TV is on and tru motion and all that other crap is turned off. Still there's this smoothness that just doesn't look natural, but at the same time there is less judder and "flicking" than when 24p is turned off (which I like). The smoothness is more noticeable on some movies than others. San Andreas with 24p on looks like a cartoon on my TV in some shots, but Casino Royale looks good.

Ive tried using source direct on my blu-ray player to bypass anything the player may be doing, but that artificial smoothing and "fast motion" look is still there.

I also have just scan turned on as well in case anyone thought it may be set to something else.
Hi, try to change the icon to 'PC' of your connected input, doing this it will disable any motion processing and expect 4:4:4 input signal. See this if it helps.

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post #11 of 20 Old 04-16-2017, 11:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi, try to change the icon to 'PC' of your connected input, doing this it will disable any motion processing and expect 4:4:4 input signal. See this if it helps.
I appreciate the advice, but what exactly do you mean to change the icon to PC of my connected output? Is this something I do on the TV, or the bluray player? I am unfamiliar with this setting. Thank you.
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post #12 of 20 Old 04-16-2017, 11:40 AM
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I appreciate the advice, but what exactly do you mean to change the icon to PC of my connected output? Is this something I do on the TV, or the bluray player? I am unfamiliar with this setting. Thank you.
Go to the LG's Input menu where you can change the label names per input; it has there icons to select per input, blu-ray/stb/console/PC etc.

When you select PC there, it's disabling some extra processing.

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post #13 of 20 Old 04-16-2017, 11:51 AM
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+1. That's what I do on my LG. Just change the name of the input. If I remember correctly, a pull-down appears that allows you to change the name to pre-set devices (game, PC, DVD, STB, etc) that is closest to what you have connected.
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post #14 of 20 Old 04-16-2017, 01:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post
+1. That's what I do on my LG. Just change the name of the input. If I remember correctly, a pull-down appears that allows you to change the name to pre-set devices (game, PC, DVD, STB, etc) that is closest to what you have connected.
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Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
Go to the LG's Input menu where you can change the label names per input; it has there icons to select per input, blu-ray/stb/console/PC etc.

When you select PC there, it's disabling some extra processing.
Okay, I think I am on the right track here. I looked at PC but it doesn't allow for just scan or real cinema to be enabled. However I do see I can set it to blu-ray player or home theater. My blu-ray player is connected to the amp and the amp goes to the TV. I figure I should select home theater, but do you guys know the difference between setting the input to blu-ray or home theater and which one would be more ideal to select for my setup? Thanks for all the help.
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post #15 of 20 Old 04-16-2017, 01:49 PM
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I just labeled my inputs according to the devices connected to them, then I calibrated my panel via the blu-ray input so I could save the calibration under one of the Expert setting options. I then transferred the calibrated settings to my other inputs (the settings that would transfer) and adjusted if I needed to. That has worked out very well for me. So I basically have one input calibrated properly (the blu-ray/DVD input) and the other inputs are adjusted off of that one. I never paid much attention to what options were disabled by default according to the input "name". What was important to me was to have the blu-ray input as accurate as possible because that is the one that will have the most consistent source material. Calibrating PC, game, STB, cable/sat/OTA inputs can be frustrating because the quality of the source material can vary considerably.
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post #16 of 20 Old 04-16-2017, 02:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post
I just labeled my inputs according to the devices connected to them, then I calibrated my panel via the blu-ray input so I could save the calibration under one of the Expert setting options. I then transferred the calibrated settings to my other inputs (the settings that would transfer) and adjusted if I needed to. That has worked out very well for me. So I basically have one input calibrated properly (the blu-ray/DVD input) and the other inputs are adjusted off of that one. I never paid much attention to what options were disabled by default according to the input "name". What was important to me was to have the blu-ray input as accurate as possible because that is the one that will have the most consistent source material. Calibrating PC, game, STB, cable/sat/OTA inputs can be frustrating because the quality of the source material can vary considerably.
It worked. I changed from HDMI 1 to Blu-ray and that did the trick . The picture is now smooth as silk without looking artificially sped up. Guess there was some processing going on in HDM1 input that the blu-ray input disables. Thank you guys all so much for your help. And I agree with you Otto, I calibrate the one input and just carry over the settings to anything else.

One last question....I now have set my blu-ray player output resolution set to source direct, and 1080p24 set to forced. Do you guys think changing my output resolution to 1080p instead of source direct will make any difference? (positive or negative, or none at all), and also is forced for 1080p24 just as good as using auto? I figure forced will prevent any potential handshaking issues, and if something isn't 24fps it will just revert to what its natural fps is anyway. Thanks for all the help, much appreciated.
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post #17 of 20 Old 04-20-2017, 09:15 AM
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Source Direct means there is no processing going on, which is usually preferred if you want to keep the image as clean as possible. I saw that you are running through an amp, you may want to check the settings in the amplifier to see if there is any video processing done there as well. While I realize that you switched the input to Bluray and it fixed your problem, if you ever hook up any other devices, just something to keep in mind for the future.
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post #18 of 20 Old 04-20-2017, 11:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Source Direct means there is no processing going on, which is usually preferred if you want to keep the image as clean as possible. I saw that you are running through an amp, you may want to check the settings in the amplifier to see if there is any video processing done there as well. While I realize that you switched the input to Bluray and it fixed your problem, if you ever hook up any other devices, just something to keep in mind for the future.
Well, I thought it had fixed it at the time, but as I was watching more and more I could still detect that it in fact didn't solve the issue. The smoothness is good, but it just seems to be like its slightly fast forwarding. I was thinking that maybe something was happening in the amp too, but I looked at the settings and cant seem to find anything related to picture settings. I have the Yamaha RXV481 if anyone knows anything about that amp. I was also thinking maybe its the sequence which things are powering on. For a TV, blu-ray player, and amp, what is the ideal power up / power down sequence?
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post #19 of 20 Old 05-04-2017, 03:48 PM
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I personally have never heard of the power up process effect the way an image is processed. I have looked over your amp and I don't see anything in particular about video processing, so that would lead me to believe that it shouldn't be effecting it at all. I apologize if I missed this in the post, but I assume you are using the ISF Expert settings calibrated?
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post #20 of 20 Old 05-13-2017, 11:29 AM
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"Shouldn't" be affecting it. Only way to tell for sure is to hook up directly to tv....

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