LG 2017 OLED Calibration Thread and Settings - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 226Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #61 of 743 Old 07-23-2017, 10:48 AM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
D-Nice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 15,673
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 711 Post(s)
Liked: 1508
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post
I'm at a disadvantage due to only having an X-Rite ProV1 for profiling my Klein K10-A. Regardless, using the same meter combination on all my displays "should" yield the same results.
Correct. I've done the same here with a revD i1pro and a i1pro2.
D-Nice is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #62 of 743 Old 07-23-2017, 11:08 AM
Senior Member
 
pazman2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 230
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 138 Post(s)
Liked: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad B View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad B View Post
Technical info:

Break in:
The C7 was broken in for a total of 200 hours, with multiple power and compensation cycles throughout. Cinema mode was chosen to track the C7?s break in since it is one of the more accurately measuring modes, while the ISF Expert modes would be reserved for calibration and other testing. Fresh out of the box with just a normal warm up time, after turning the power save feature off the C7?s Cinema mode measured extremely well. The previous 6 series? familiar greenish emphasis in the mid tones was significantly reduced, and color tracking at different brightness levels and saturation points was excellent and greatly improved over the 6 series. Even the skin tone simulations measured with the correct tint and saturation, a feat that eluded the 6 series. Initial picture impressions were somewhat surprising; unlike the previous 6 series OLEDs which tended to have overly rich color and dark shadow detail, the C7?s color was polite, with slightly pale skin tones, and most content did not seem to be lacking in dark textures.

After 97 hours, the C7 was remeasured under identical conditions and settings. As the break in process progressed, the gamma shifted lower which tends to slightly reduce the depth perspective and wash out the image. There was also a tiny bit more green in the white balance.

Finally, at 200 hours the C7 was measured again, with the same settings and under the same conditions. Between 97 and 200 hours, the gamma lowered only a tiny bit more, but the green emphasis in the white balance increased to the point where it would become more visibly intrusive.

The resulting pre calibration picture was good, but watching Blu Ray movies within the initial 150 hour period showed a mixture of both enjoyable and annoying characteristics. First, the motion had the unnatural Soap Opera Effect along with fleeting jagged edges and general weirdness around the borders of moving objects. Blacks looked superb, but depth and dimensionality of the image was not as great as hoped; and whites often seemed compressed. Dark picture content just above black was easy to see and very well delineated. Skin tones, while generally natural and inoffensive, sometimes had a jaundice tinge. The image had excellent pop and a great photo realistic quality.

Windows and fields:
Some other surprising departures from previous LG OLED models included differences with various size and style measurement windows. Previously, there had been no significant change in the way different standard window sizes and styles measured. With the C7, shadow detail measured a tiny bit stronger with small windows than with medium to large windows, and significantly stronger than with APL style windows. This is shown as an increase in gamma at the low end with larger and APL windows. Measurements attached for 2, 10, and 25% size conventional windows and 10% size/25% APL windows.

Thankfully, the white balance was very consistent with all sizes even up to full fields. Peak light output when calibrated to 50 fL was basically unchanged with 50% windows and an extremely impressive 43.1 fL with full fields. The dynamic brightness pattern on the AVS 709 disc looked similar to past OLEDs with only a slight darkening of 10-30% as the APL changed. These results suggest that, while shadow detail may now suffer from small dynamic shifts, ABL (undesirable brightness limiting with full white screens) is pretty much a thing of the past.

Color:
A second departure from previous models concerns color reproduction and behavior of the color gamut selection and color filter functions. The C7?s color reproduction seemed too relaxed at times, lacking in richness, despite measurements suggesting nearly perfect color accuracy with color gamut at the default Auto setting. While measurements are generally the preferred way of setting and testing color, LG provides a color filter function to aid in color calibration in the absence of a suitable meter. Surprisingly, the C7?s color had to be increased to 72 with a tint of G2 for the result to be correct with the color filter function, with the image looking surprisingly decent but at odds with the measurements. Changing the color gamut selection to wide ?fixed? that problem, indicating perfect color alignment at default color and tint settings with the color filter. Reference screencaps looked impressive in Wide, but the measurements showed colors were oversaturated. The same experiment was done on the 6 series, which did not show the same color gamut differences with the color filter function. The 6?s color gamut selection behaves as expected, with colors ranging from merely rich in Normal color gamut to over the top in Wide.

As with the C, E, and G6, the C7?s CMS behavior is somewhat less than desirable. While an improvement over the CMS behavior of the B6 and earlier OLEDs, the C7?s CMS tends to have sharp adjustment transitions which can lead to artifacts on some content. In addition, in between color shades such as skin tones tend not to be touched at all by the C7?s CMS. CMS behavior was tested with color gamut set to both Wide and Auto with slightly modified but ultimately similar results. It is therefore advisable to keep CMS calibration to a minimum.

HDR:
HDR was significantly improved over the 6 series, in more ways than just higher peak light output. The grayscale and gamma can now be calibrated nicely over the entire range, though a modified ?code value? adjustment remains as the multipoint control. By running very closely spaced measurement runs, it was possible to determine exactly which brightness level the different code values adjusted. The lower three and uppermost three controls had a wide coverage area (like Q factor in the audio world), while the middle 14 controls adjusted a fairly narrow range. The stimulus level each code value adjusted, with contrast and brightness at default, will be listed in an attached document. I was able to use the levels editor of CalMAN to make a special set of measurements that lined up with these levels, which facilitated calibration.

Uniformity and misc:
There was an inconsistent change in light output when switching the screen shift function off in the OLED panel settings menu. The screen shift caused resolution patterns to garble slightly as the screen shifted. Turning it off caused a puzzling loss of peak light output, going from 50 fL to 42 fL, though cycling the picture modes or power seemed to bring the light output back up.

After break in, dark uniformity was the best I?ve seen on an OLED. Full fields were examined coming out of black in 1% increments. There was no vignetting (though I believe I caught glimpses of it earlier in the break in process), and banding was only slightly visible on a 3% field, though it did not look like it would be visible at all on any real image. With bright 50%-100% fields, uniformity was good, though the right side looked slightly warmer than the left. Measurements of the C7?s near black behavior showed excellent shadow detail with gamma near ideal from .5% to 5%. This is dramatically better than the 6 series, and proof of the C7?s superior shadow detail and near black performance.

Input lag with any picture mode except game and any combination of motion settings was 88 ms. Game mode measured an impressive 21 ms. Relabeling the input to PC was not tested.

Even with sharpness set to 0 and all enhancements switched off, there was some edge enhancement on sharpness patterns with 1080P or lower resolutions. 4K/UHD sharpness and resolution patterns looked superb, with full resolution and no artifacts.
Some later thoughts... I haven't seen a need for an alternative WP on these. D65 on them looks like D65 to me. Interestingly, the sets I have thought needed an alternative WP most were some Vizio and LG edge lit IPS LED LCDs.

IMO, small windows correlate best with the x7's subjective look in regards to shadow detail.

I see a disconnect between measured color gamut and color checker skin tone patch results and how the 7 series looks with real content. With color gamut at auto, bumping color up and tint toward red helps skin tones look more natural. This is the opposite of the 6 series.

Externally upscaling lower resolution sources to 4K can eliminate the slight edge enhancement and exaggeration of graininess I noted in the review.
Hey Chad Are you still recommending a bt1886 gamma or flat 2.4 on the c7 ?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0364_1500833143724.jpg
Views:	236
Size:	107.8 KB
ID:	2254281  

Last edited by pazman2000; 08-27-2017 at 12:00 PM.
pazman2000 is online now  
post #63 of 743 Old 07-23-2017, 11:36 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Chad B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Piqua, OH
Posts: 2,610
Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 579 Post(s)
Liked: 1332
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post
Hi Chad,



Have you had the opportunity to place an OLED right beside a plasma where both were calibrated to x3127 y3290 and observe the color of the x3127 y3290 white light?


Not a plasma but an optical comparator.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

touring ISF/THX calibrator with Jeti 1211 and Klein K-10
Latest reviews:JVC RS500 and 600, JVC RS400, LG 65C7P, JVC RS420
Copied settings measured, older LG OLED calibration tips, Review index
Chad B is offline  
 
post #64 of 743 Old 07-23-2017, 12:14 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
sillysally's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 4,952
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1015 Post(s)
Liked: 952
Quote:
Originally Posted by T( )( )L View Post
SS,how does the white (point) look on this one,i do belive there is another filter on those ones compared to 2016 models,is there any need for an alternate wp?
Have you tried the cms,is there any distortion/tearing when using it?
I haven't had time to do much on my C7, so I will default to D-Nice and Chad.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad B View Post
I see a disconnect between measured color gamut and color checker skin tone patch results and how the 7 series looks with real content. With color gamut at auto, bumping color up and tint toward red helps skin tones look more natural. This is the opposite of the 6 series.
When using Wide color Gamut (not auto for 3DLUT) and running a large profile/3DLUT, I am seeing the apposite adjustment with Red for real life skin tones. Yes I agree about the "disconnect", and imo its not just with the ColorChecker but with Lum and Sat sweeps as well.
Also it seems that Calman and the Lumagen Pro 444x, don't play well together for the time being. That is what I thought was the issue until I saw your post.

Last night I used LightSpace for my pre settings and of-course my profile, but I haven't had a chance to check the outcome.

The biggest issue I am seeing that is caused by the C7 is white point drift. I have less than 200 hours on my C7 so I am hoping that the C7 will become more stable.

ss

"Don't worry be happy"
For Sale Lumagen Radiance Pro 4440/2, see link for details
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/210-vi...l#post54911046
sillysally is offline  
post #65 of 743 Old 07-23-2017, 12:25 PM
Member
 
JustaPlacebo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 73
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 53 Post(s)
Liked: 32
Just wanted to share my settings and some thoughts & questions regarding my C7 and calibration.
Tools used:

•Spears and Munsil 1st and 2nd edition
•x-rite i1 Display Pro (not calibrated and don't have a reference meter but I figure it's better than nothing, especially for luminosity (light output/nits/candela) as well as basic color temperature readings.)
•Calman RGB
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/
http://diversifiedvideosolutions.com/



Input name PC (Using RGB full 444 chroma in 1080 Ti equipped PC.) I'm skeptical as to whether "PC input" ISF Expert modes produce an equal image to the same preset in other inputs. Something has got to give to get the improved input response time, right?

ISF Expert (Dark Room):

Energy saving: Off

OLED light: 30 for 123 nits 100% window.) Setting to 85 for Bright Room which reads 252 nits 100% window. Which is weird for a couple of reasons. One, with the B6 I had, window size greatly affected brightness output due to strong ABL. With the C7, it is linear, there is no ABL even at 85 as far as I have been able to test. However, RTINGS stated 2% window reading of 389 nits (cd/m2) 25% of 388, 50% of 389, and 100% of 138. My 100% is about on par with theirs, but it stays linear and never hits near 389. Even with contrast set to 100 it only hits 300 nits. Window size does not affect light output. I can't figure out why this is.

Setting this to 85 can reduce some of the black crushes but in SDR content in a dark room, most scenes look garish if this is set too high, so I keep it set to 123 nits (OLED Light 30). Going from 85 to 100 does not increase the light output, in fact, it reduces it. Will edit with exact values soon.

Contrast: 85 (I can set this to 99 without clipping but in my experience, default contrast is usually best—even without clipping too high a contrast can make mid tones looked washed out. I don't understand why RTINGs.com stated: "We then increased the 'Contrast' to 100 since it helped the calibration." What is that supposed to mean?! http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/c7-oled/settings)

Brightness: 50 Levels 16 - 17 (R. Masciolas Advanced calibration Disc - SDR) are slightly crushed, but not nearly as bad as with 2016 models, which were unacceptable. 3 - 5 in the lagom brightness pattern aren't crushed but are of a slightly darker shade than seems ideal. Setting brightness to 52 raises the brightness of 6 and beyond more so than it fixes low-level crush.


H Sharpness:
0 (Easiest to confirm by squinting at this at 0% scaling http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/sharpness.php)

V Sharpness: 0 (Easiest to confirm by squinting at this at 0% scaling http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/sharpness.php

Color: 50 nothing looks cartoonish unless it is meant to and skin tones look great.

Expert Settings

Color Gamut: Auto (haven't noticed any issues. Wide makes SDR content look oversaturated.

Gamma: Bt.1866 It is my understanding that these displays are engineered/optimized around Bt.1866 (close to 2.4) in order to behave more like CRTs, so I leave it here. This has been a confusing setting.

White Balance:

Color temp: Warm 2 (Hits closest to D65)

2-point

High: R - 10, G -1, B -8
Low: R0, G0, B-3

CMS:

All default.

Picture options: All off

Black level: Auto

Motion eye care:
off.

Game mode bugs me. It looks like poo. Do manufacturers speak with developers about what they think is best here? I suspect not. Game mode doesn't seem to be worth using for any reason unless I need a preset dedicated to gamma set to 2.2 so I don't have to keep changing the gamma setting in my ISF preset. But Game mode produces less accurate colors since it seems to utilize less complex processing than the ISF presets. However, if input latency remains the same between Game Mode and ISF modes, in PC input, why bother? Anyway, for the game mode, I set:

OLED light: Either 30 or 85 ... for gaming 120 nits can seem pretty dim even in a pitch dark room so I'm always going back and forth depending on the scene.

Contrast: 85. Again, 95 default can seem garish even without clipping.

Sharpness: 0 (Again, easiest to confirm by squinting at this at 0% scaling http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/sharpness.php)

White balance: W50, closest to D65 (6540k). C30 as default is way too blue and looks ridiculous.

Color: 50 (default 65 looks ridiculous -- why do manufacturers think video games = oversaturate? How is this justified when there are games that mix high quality, well produced, well graded, live action cinema with gameplay such as Quantum Break?)
Culpepper likes this.

Displays: LG 65" C7 | LG 34UM95 | LG 27UD88 | Asus VG248QE 144Hz | DELL S2240m
Sound: Yamaha HS7's | Onkyo TX-NR 646 5.1.2
Custom PC: i7-3930k, GTX 1080Ti, Cosmos 2 tower
Blu-ray Player: Sony UBP-X800

Last edited by JustaPlacebo; 07-24-2017 at 01:51 PM.
JustaPlacebo is offline  
post #66 of 743 Old 07-24-2017, 06:14 AM
kig
Newbie
 
kig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Brazil
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by JustaPlacebo View Post
Just wanted to share my settings and some thoughts & questions regarding my C7 and calibration.
Tools used:

•Spears and Munsil 1st and 2nd edition
•x-rite i1 Display Pro (not calibrated and don't have a reference meter but I figure it's better than nothing, especially for luminosity (light output/nits/candela) as well as basic color temperature readings.)
•Calman RGB
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/
http://diversifiedvideosolutions.com/



Input name PC (Using RGB full 444 chroma in 1080 Ti equipped PC)

ISF Expert (Dark Room):

Energy saving: Off

OLED light: 30 for 123 nits 100% window.) Setting to 85 for Bright Room which reads 252 nits 100% window. Which is weird for a couple of reasons. One, with the B6 I had, window size greatly affected brightness output due to strong ABL. With the C7, it is linear, there is no ABL even at 85 as far as I have been able to test. However, RTINGS stated 2% window reading of 389 nits (cd/m2) 25% of 388, 50% of 389, and 100% of 138. My 100% is about on par with theirs, but it stays linear and never hits near 389. Even with contrast set to 100 it only hits 300 nits. Window size does not affect light output. I can't figure out why this is.

Setting this to 85 can reduce some of the black crushes but in SDR content in a dark room, most scenes look garish if this is set too high, so I keep it set to 123 nits (OLED Light 30). Going from 85 to 100 does not increase the light output, in fact, it reduces it. Will edit with exact values soon.

Contrast: 85 (I can set this to 99 without clipping but in my experience, default contrast is usually best—even without clipping too high a contrast can make mid tones looked washed out. I don't understand why RTINGs.com stated: "We then increased the 'Contrast' to 100 since it helped the calibration." What is that supposed to mean?! http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/c7-oled/settings)

Brightness: 50 Levels 16 - 17 (R. Masciolas Advanced calibration Disc - SDR) are slightly crushed, but not nearly as bad as with 2016 models, which were unacceptable. 3 - 5 in the lagom brightness pattern aren't crushed but are of a slightly darker shade than seems ideal. Setting brightness to 52 raises the brightness of 6 and beyond more so than it fixes low-level crush.


H Sharpness:
0 (Easiest to confirm by squinting at this at 0% scaling http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/sharpness.php)

V Sharpness: 0 (Easiest to confirm by squinting at this at 0% scaling http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/sharpness.php

Color: 50 nothing looks cartoonish unless it is meant to and skin tones look great.

Expert Settings

Color Gamut: Auto (haven't noticed any issues. Wide makes SDR content look oversaturated.

Gamma: Bt.1866 (It is my understanding that these displays are engineered/optimized around Bt.1866 (close to 2.4) in order to behave more like CRTs, so I leave it here. However, this does add to the amount of black crush. This is most notable in video games. This has been the most confusing setting to me.

White Balance:

Color temp: Warm 2 (Hits closest to D65)

2-point

High: R - 10, G -1, B -8
Low: R0, G0, B-3

CMS:

All default.

Picture options: All off

Black level: Auto

Motion eye care:
off.

Game mode bugs me. It looks like poo. Do manufacturers speak with developers about what they think is best here? I suspect not. Game mode doesn't seem to be worth using for any reason unless I need a preset dedicated to gamma set to 2.2 so I don't have to keep changing the gamma setting in my ISF preset. But Game mode produces less accurate colors since it seems to utilize less complex processing than the ISF presets. However, if input latency remains the same between Game Mode and ISF modes, in PC input, why bother? Anyway, for the game mode, I set:

OLED light: Either 30 or 85 ... for gaming 120 nits can seem pretty dim even in a pitch dark room so I'm always going back and forth depending on the scene.

Contrast: 85. Again, 95 default can seem garish even without clipping.

Sharpness: 0 (Again, easiest to confirm by squinting at this at 0% scaling http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/sharpness.php)

White balance: W50, closest to D65 (6540k). C30 as default is way too blue and looks ridiculous.

Color: 50 (default 65 looks ridiculous -- why do manufacturers think video games = oversaturate? How is this justified when there are games that mix high quality, well produced, well graded, live action cinema with gameplay such as Quantum Break?)


Hey guys,

PS4Pro Black Level AUTO and Game Mode seem's to crush black level´s a lot...

Should i change on ps4 or just adjust gamma in tv mode?

Just look at Heihachi´s face on Tekken 7 main screen..

Tks
kig is offline  
post #67 of 743 Old 07-25-2017, 12:34 AM
Member
 
JustaPlacebo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 73
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 53 Post(s)
Liked: 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by kig View Post
Hey guys,

PS4Pro Black Level AUTO and Game Mode seem's to crush black level´s a lot...

Should i change on ps4 or just adjust gamma in tv mode?

Just look at Heihachi´s face on Tekken 7 main screen..

Tks
Leave gamma alone. Change the RGB mode to limited or full and see which looks appropriate. I don't have a PS4 to test for myself.
kig likes this.

Displays: LG 65" C7 | LG 34UM95 | LG 27UD88 | Asus VG248QE 144Hz | DELL S2240m
Sound: Yamaha HS7's | Onkyo TX-NR 646 5.1.2
Custom PC: i7-3930k, GTX 1080Ti, Cosmos 2 tower
Blu-ray Player: Sony UBP-X800
JustaPlacebo is offline  
post #68 of 743 Old 07-30-2017, 08:53 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 54
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Liked: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by JustaPlacebo View Post
Just wanted to share my settings and some thoughts & questions regarding my C7 and calibration.
Tools used:

•Spears and Munsil 1st and 2nd edition
•x-rite i1 Display Pro (not calibrated and don't have a reference meter but I figure it's better than nothing, especially for luminosity (light output/nits/candela) as well as basic color temperature readings.)
•Calman RGB
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/
http://diversifiedvideosolutions.com/



Input name PC (Using RGB full 444 chroma in 1080 Ti equipped PC.) I'm skeptical as to whether "PC input" ISF Expert modes produce an equal image to the same preset in other inputs. Something has got to give to get the improved input response time, right?

ISF Expert (Dark Room):

Energy saving: Off

OLED light: 30 for 123 nits 100% window.) Setting to 85 for Bright Room which reads 252 nits 100% window. Which is weird for a couple of reasons. One, with the B6 I had, window size greatly affected brightness output due to strong ABL. With the C7, it is linear, there is no ABL even at 85 as far as I have been able to test. However, RTINGS stated 2% window reading of 389 nits (cd/m2) 25% of 388, 50% of 389, and 100% of 138. My 100% is about on par with theirs, but it stays linear and never hits near 389. Even with contrast set to 100 it only hits 300 nits. Window size does not affect light output. I can't figure out why this is.

Setting this to 85 can reduce some of the black crushes but in SDR content in a dark room, most scenes look garish if this is set too high, so I keep it set to 123 nits (OLED Light 30). Going from 85 to 100 does not increase the light output, in fact, it reduces it. Will edit with exact values soon.

Contrast: 85 (I can set this to 99 without clipping but in my experience, default contrast is usually best—even without clipping too high a contrast can make mid tones looked washed out. I don't understand why RTINGs.com stated: "We then increased the 'Contrast' to 100 since it helped the calibration." What is that supposed to mean?! http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/c7-oled/settings)

Brightness: 50 Levels 16 - 17 (R. Masciolas Advanced calibration Disc - SDR) are slightly crushed, but not nearly as bad as with 2016 models, which were unacceptable. 3 - 5 in the lagom brightness pattern aren't crushed but are of a slightly darker shade than seems ideal. Setting brightness to 52 raises the brightness of 6 and beyond more so than it fixes low-level crush.


H Sharpness:
0 (Easiest to confirm by squinting at this at 0% scaling http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/sharpness.php)

V Sharpness: 0 (Easiest to confirm by squinting at this at 0% scaling http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/sharpness.php

Color: 50 nothing looks cartoonish unless it is meant to and skin tones look great.

Expert Settings

Color Gamut: Auto (haven't noticed any issues. Wide makes SDR content look oversaturated.

Gamma: Bt.1866 It is my understanding that these displays are engineered/optimized around Bt.1866 (close to 2.4) in order to behave more like CRTs, so I leave it here. This has been a confusing setting.

White Balance:

Color temp: Warm 2 (Hits closest to D65)

2-point

High: R - 10, G -1, B -8
Low: R0, G0, B-3

CMS:

All default.

Picture options: All off

Black level: Auto

Motion eye care:
off.

Game mode bugs me. It looks like poo. Do manufacturers speak with developers about what they think is best here? I suspect not. Game mode doesn't seem to be worth using for any reason unless I need a preset dedicated to gamma set to 2.2 so I don't have to keep changing the gamma setting in my ISF preset. But Game mode produces less accurate colors since it seems to utilize less complex processing than the ISF presets. However, if input latency remains the same between Game Mode and ISF modes, in PC input, why bother? Anyway, for the game mode, I set:

OLED light: Either 30 or 85 ... for gaming 120 nits can seem pretty dim even in a pitch dark room so I'm always going back and forth depending on the scene.

Contrast: 85. Again, 95 default can seem garish even without clipping.

Sharpness: 0 (Again, easiest to confirm by squinting at this at 0% scaling http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/sharpness.php)

White balance: W50, closest to D65 (6540k). C30 as default is way too blue and looks ridiculous.

Color: 50 (default 65 looks ridiculous -- why do manufacturers think video games = oversaturate? How is this justified when there are games that mix high quality, well produced, well graded, live action cinema with gameplay such as Quantum Break?)
Thank you for posting this!!
JustaPlacebo likes this.

Last edited by Tgrds; 07-30-2017 at 09:05 AM.
Tgrds is offline  
post #69 of 743 Old 07-30-2017, 09:04 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 54
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Liked: 19
D-Nice please post your SDR and HDR settings

D-Nice if you could be so kind as to post your typical SDR and HDR settings for your C7P's it would be much appreciated. Big time appreciated!!

I am currently using a mix of JustaPlacebo and RTings settings for SDR and HDR. I am also running your break in slides via a thumbdrive that you provided in the beginning of the owners thread. Almost up to 50 hrs now. As a side note, I followed your break in and settings advice 10 years ago with my Plasma TV's and they were fantastic. Thank you very much for that!!
JustaPlacebo likes this.

Last edited by Tgrds; 07-30-2017 at 10:09 AM.
Tgrds is offline  
post #70 of 743 Old 07-30-2017, 11:59 AM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Wetumpka, AL
Posts: 17,407
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1704 Post(s)
Liked: 731
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad B View Post
Not a plasma but an optical comparator.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hmmmm....more toys.

Where do you get these meaning ones that are appropriate for home theater? A google search didn't help.
JimP is offline  
post #71 of 743 Old 07-30-2017, 01:11 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
sillysally's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 4,952
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1015 Post(s)
Liked: 952
Quote:
Originally Posted by T( )( )L View Post
SS,how does the white (point) look on this one,i do belive there is another filter on those ones compared to 2016 models,is there any need for an alternate wp?
Have you tried the cms,is there any distortion/tearing when using it?
Last Night I made a new REC.709 2.4 3DLUT using Tyler's alternative WP for the 2017 LG OLED's. You may want to try it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad B View Post
Some later thoughts... I haven't seen a need for an alternative WP on these. D65 on them looks like D65 to me. Interestingly, the sets I have thought needed an alternative WP most were some Vizio and LG edge lit IPS LED LCDs.
Up till now I agree with you about the alternative WP.
I used a profile (21x3) that I made 7/18 (wide Gamut) with LightSpace. Last night I used Tyler's alternative WP for the 2017 LG OLED, when making a 3DLUT from the profile I made 7/18.
Although the changes in PQ are subtle, I believe that Tyler's alternative WP maybe worth trying.

The profile/3DLUT I made on 7/18 I used the normal x, y WB and had that already loaded in the Lumagen Pro 4440. So Loading the new 3DLUT in the Pro also made it easy to compare.

Of-course using a alternative WP is subjective, I like what I am seeing.
The 3DLUT that LightSpace made from my profile on 7/18 was spot-on for the REC.709 2.4 wide gamut, Lum and Sat normal x,y WB.

Update;
After a few more hours of viewing I am back on the same page as I was. I am not seeing a need for an alternative WP.

ss
bigapp and jrref like this.

"Don't worry be happy"
For Sale Lumagen Radiance Pro 4440/2, see link for details
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/210-vi...l#post54911046

Last edited by sillysally; 08-01-2017 at 11:14 AM.
sillysally is offline  
post #72 of 743 Old 07-30-2017, 01:11 PM
Member
 
JustaPlacebo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 73
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 53 Post(s)
Liked: 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tgrds View Post
D-Nice if you could be so kind as to post your typical SDR and HDR settings for your C7P's it would be much appreciated. Big time appreciated!!

I am currently using a mix of JustaPlacebo and RTings settings for SDR and HDR. I am also running your break in slides via a thumbdrive that you provided in the beginning of the owners thread. Almost up to 50 hrs now. As a side note, I followed your break in and settings advice 10 years ago with my Plasma TV's and they were fantastic. Thank you very much for that!!
I want to point out that I have learned that "PC Input" with the latest TV update seems to have broken HDR 10 playback color space, so it is necessary to use another input name for HDR 10 content from certain sources like PS4 until a fix comes.

Displays: LG 65" C7 | LG 34UM95 | LG 27UD88 | Asus VG248QE 144Hz | DELL S2240m
Sound: Yamaha HS7's | Onkyo TX-NR 646 5.1.2
Custom PC: i7-3930k, GTX 1080Ti, Cosmos 2 tower
Blu-ray Player: Sony UBP-X800
JustaPlacebo is offline  
post #73 of 743 Old 07-30-2017, 01:22 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Chad B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Piqua, OH
Posts: 2,610
Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 579 Post(s)
Liked: 1332
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post
Hmmmm....more toys.

Where do you get these meaning ones that are appropriate for home theater? A google search didn't help.
I use a TVS Pro optical comparator. It's been discontinued for a long time. It's a portable black box that slides open. You look through the opening and compare the color of white that the TV shows through the opening and compare it to that produced by the TVS Pro right next to it.

touring ISF/THX calibrator with Jeti 1211 and Klein K-10
Latest reviews:JVC RS500 and 600, JVC RS400, LG 65C7P, JVC RS420
Copied settings measured, older LG OLED calibration tips, Review index
Chad B is offline  
post #74 of 743 Old 07-31-2017, 08:43 AM
Member
 
T( )( )L's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Sweden
Posts: 184
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 81 Post(s)
Liked: 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by sillysally View Post
Last Night I made a new REC.709 2.4 3DLUT using Tyler's alternative WP for the 2017 LG OLED's. You may want to try it

ss

I did try Tylers wp and also D-nice wp on my lg b6,d-nice wp worked better,so that is what im using
sillysally likes this.

Calman Enthusiast,Lightspace HTP,Klein K-10A,I1pro2,Murideo 6G.
T( )( )L is offline  
post #75 of 743 Old 07-31-2017, 09:18 AM
Senior Member
 
kensingtonwick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 277
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 183 Post(s)
Liked: 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by JustaPlacebo View Post
Just wanted to share my settings and some thoughts & questions regarding my C7 and calibration.

Tools used:



•Spears and Munsil 1st and 2nd edition

•x-rite i1 Display Pro (not calibrated and don't have a reference meter but I figure it's better than nothing, especially for luminosity (light output/nits/candela) as well as basic color temperature readings.)

•Calman RGB

http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/

http://diversifiedvideosolutions.com/







Input name PC (Using RGB full 444 chroma in 1080 Ti equipped PC.) I'm skeptical as to whether "PC input" ISF Expert modes produce an equal image to the same preset in other inputs. Something has got to give to get the improved input response time, right?



ISF Expert (Dark Room):



Energy saving: Off



OLED light: 30 for 123 nits 100% window.) Setting to 85 for Bright Room which reads 252 nits 100% window. Which is weird for a couple of reasons. One, with the B6 I had, window size greatly affected brightness output due to strong ABL. With the C7, it is linear, there is no ABL even at 85 as far as I have been able to test. However, RTINGS stated 2% window reading of 389 nits (cd/m2) 25% of 388, 50% of 389, and 100% of 138. My 100% is about on par with theirs, but it stays linear and never hits near 389. Even with contrast set to 100 it only hits 300 nits. Window size does not affect light output. I can't figure out why this is.



Setting this to 85 can reduce some of the black crushes but in SDR content in a dark room, most scenes look garish if this is set too high, so I keep it set to 123 nits (OLED Light 30). Going from 85 to 100 does not increase the light output, in fact, it reduces it. Will edit with exact values soon.



Contrast: 85 (I can set this to 99 without clipping but in my experience, default contrast is usually best—even without clipping too high a contrast can make mid tones looked washed out. I don't understand why RTINGs.com stated: "We then increased the 'Contrast' to 100 since it helped the calibration." What is that supposed to mean?! http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/c7-oled/settings)



Brightness: 50 Levels 16 - 17 (R. Masciolas Advanced calibration Disc - SDR) are slightly crushed, but not nearly as bad as with 2016 models, which were unacceptable. 3 - 5 in the lagom brightness pattern aren't crushed but are of a slightly darker shade than seems ideal. Setting brightness to 52 raises the brightness of 6 and beyond more so than it fixes low-level crush.





H Sharpness:
0 (Easiest to confirm by squinting at this at 0% scaling http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/sharpness.php)



V Sharpness: 0 (Easiest to confirm by squinting at this at 0% scaling http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/sharpness.php



Color: 50 nothing looks cartoonish unless it is meant to and skin tones look great.



Expert Settings



Color Gamut: Auto (haven't noticed any issues. Wide makes SDR content look oversaturated.



Gamma: Bt.1866 It is my understanding that these displays are engineered/optimized around Bt.1866 (close to 2.4) in order to behave more like CRTs, so I leave it here. This has been a confusing setting.



White Balance:



Color temp: Warm 2 (Hits closest to D65)



2-point



High: R - 10, G -1, B -8

Low: R0, G0, B-3



CMS:



All default.



Picture options: All off



Black level: Auto



Motion eye care:
off.



Game mode bugs me. It looks like poo. Do manufacturers speak with developers about what they think is best here? I suspect not. Game mode doesn't seem to be worth using for any reason unless I need a preset dedicated to gamma set to 2.2 so I don't have to keep changing the gamma setting in my ISF preset. But Game mode produces less accurate colors since it seems to utilize less complex processing than the ISF presets. However, if input latency remains the same between Game Mode and ISF modes, in PC input, why bother? Anyway, for the game mode, I set:



OLED light: Either 30 or 85 ... for gaming 120 nits can seem pretty dim even in a pitch dark room so I'm always going back and forth depending on the scene.



Contrast: 85. Again, 95 default can seem garish even without clipping.



Sharpness: 0 (Again, easiest to confirm by squinting at this at 0% scaling http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/sharpness.php)



White balance: W50, closest to D65 (6540k). C30 as default is way too blue and looks ridiculous.



Color: 50 (default 65 looks ridiculous -- why do manufacturers think video games = oversaturate? How is this justified when there are games that mix high quality, well produced, well graded, live action cinema with gameplay such as Quantum Break?)


Are you saying that sometimes the ABL does not engage? I notice it on my computer sometimes. The other day I had my OLED light at 100 and was expanding a notepad on my computer from full screen to a very small size window to watch the ABL engage but it wasn't. I've done it before and have seen the screen them but twice now it has not dimmed. I thought would have thought my OL and ED light was very low but I checked and it was at 100 along with contrast being at 100 as well wtf lol. I'm not going to complain. Are you saying that you were getting 252 units on our 100% window without ABL engaging? I find it odd that I see it dim at times when expanding solid white on my screen and other times it does not engage.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
kensingtonwick is offline  
post #76 of 743 Old 07-31-2017, 01:30 PM
Member
 
JustaPlacebo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 73
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 53 Post(s)
Liked: 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by kensingtonwick View Post
Are you saying that sometimes the ABL does not engage? I notice it on my computer sometimes. The other day I had my OLED light at 100 and was expanding a notepad on my computer from full screen to a very small size window to watch the ABL engage but it wasn't. I've done it before and have seen the screen them but twice now it has not dimmed. I thought would have thought my OL and ED light was very low but I checked and it was at 100 along with contrast being at 100 as well wtf lol. I'm not going to complain. Are you saying that you were getting 252 units on our 100% window without ABL engaging? I find it odd that I see it dim at times when expanding solid white on my screen and other times it does not engage.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes. I'm typing this on my computer using the C7 right now in Google Chrome. No ABL dimming. Right now my OLED light is set to 28 for 120 nits. If I crank it to 80, it's very bright for my dim room (around 252 nits). On the B6, the ABL was very aggressive at all window size.

What's weird is that my peak brightness levels are never anywhere near the reported max levels from rtings.com no matter what input or settings I use. I'm tempted to think that maybe my power source is "dirty" or weak somehow? I feel that would degrade image quality or actually damage the TV before affected brightness, but intuitively one would think power is the first bottleneck to high brightness.

I can open a windows explorer window, resize it so it's quite small, and then immediately make it full screen with no perceivable change in brightness at any setting.

Keep in mind that this is for SDR content. I currently have no way of measuring HDR behavior with my X-Rite i1 Display Pro and current calibration software.
bigapp likes this.

Displays: LG 65" C7 | LG 34UM95 | LG 27UD88 | Asus VG248QE 144Hz | DELL S2240m
Sound: Yamaha HS7's | Onkyo TX-NR 646 5.1.2
Custom PC: i7-3930k, GTX 1080Ti, Cosmos 2 tower
Blu-ray Player: Sony UBP-X800
JustaPlacebo is offline  
post #77 of 743 Old 08-02-2017, 03:15 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 2,867
Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2282 Post(s)
Liked: 2486
Has anyone tried calibration their set for Dolby Vision?

John
Sony 55A1E / LG 55OLEDE6P
Marantz 7012
Ohm Walsh Speakers
ISF Level II Certified
jrref is offline  
post #78 of 743 Old 08-04-2017, 07:30 PM
Member
 
torkibe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 71
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tgrds View Post
D-Nice if you could be so kind as to post your typical SDR and HDR settings for your C7P's it would be much appreciated. Big time appreciated!!

As a side note, I followed your break in and settings advice 10 years ago with my Plasma TV's and they were fantastic. Thank you very much for that!!
I echo these sentiments! I followed your advice and settings for my Kuro many years ago and I'm happy to say it looks as good today as it did back then! I haven't spent any real money on a TV since then and I was stoked to see you're still here offering advice and best settings. My 65" C7 is on it's way and I need to the best settings !
torkibe is offline  
post #79 of 743 Old 08-05-2017, 04:25 AM
Advanced Member
 
bob brennan's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Westchester County, NY
Posts: 807
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 125 Post(s)
Liked: 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by torkibe View Post
I echo these sentiments! I followed your advice and settings for my Kuro many years ago and I'm happy to say it looks as good today as it did back then! I haven't spent any real money on a TV since then and I was stoked to see you're still here offering advice and best settings. My 65" C7 is on it's way and I need to the best settings !
I have used D-Nice day/night settings on a 65ZT for years and everyone who has seen them is amazed!

LG OLED 77G7P - Panasonic TC-P65ZT60 OPPO UDP-203 - Toshiba HD-DVD-3A – Harmony ONE
Marantz SR7011 - Definitive Technology - Studio Monitor 65 (2) - CS8040HD - Studio Monitor 45 (2) - Super Cube 6000
bob brennan is online now  
post #80 of 743 Old 08-05-2017, 05:02 AM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
D-Nice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 15,673
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 711 Post(s)
Liked: 1508
Quote:
Originally Posted by torkibe View Post
I echo these sentiments! I followed your advice and settings for my Kuro many years ago and I'm happy to say it looks as good today as it did back then! I haven't spent any real money on a TV since then and I was stoked to see you're still here offering advice and best settings. My 65" C7 is on it's way and I need to the best settings !
If time permits, I'll work on this next week.
D-Nice is offline  
post #81 of 743 Old 08-05-2017, 01:37 PM
Member
 
torkibe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 71
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post
If time permits, I'll work on this next week.
Thank you, Sir.
torkibe is offline  
post #82 of 743 Old 08-05-2017, 04:42 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 2,867
Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2282 Post(s)
Liked: 2486
For those who are interested, we did a Dolby Vision calibration on a C7 at Value Electronics today and we found that in addition to the 2 pt., you need to do a very thorough 20 point adjustment as per the workflow instructions. Although it was pretty tricky since you are working with HDR level patches and it took a long time to complete, the results were amazing. Playing a couple of DV videos, it was the best picture that Robert and myself have ever seen. The specular highlights, overall balance and the skin tones were near "perfect". Nothing is perfect but this was an incremental improvement and well worth the time spent. I would say the picture looks a "incrementally" better than the HDR10 on the A1E with the same content. Hopefully Sony will do a good job with their DV implementation. The person who bought this set from VE with the DV calibration, is going to be very happy

Also, I'm guessing not many people are doing DV calibrations on their LG's because the 2pt high controls are backwards, if you raise them, the luminance lowers and vice versa. It has to be a bug and I will report it once i'm 100% sure.

I'll post the DV Calman post calibration scans tomorrow but I can tell you that the end result after the updated configuration file is loaded, is almost perfect. The CMS can be better as with HDR10 but the DV CMS, I think looks better after the calibration. I understand that D-Nice is doing a DV calibration today as well so we will see what he has to say as well.
Chad B, WiFi-Spy, T( )( )L and 3 others like this.

John
Sony 55A1E / LG 55OLEDE6P
Marantz 7012
Ohm Walsh Speakers
ISF Level II Certified

Last edited by jrref; 08-05-2017 at 05:13 PM.
jrref is offline  
post #83 of 743 Old 08-05-2017, 10:53 PM
Member
 
T( )( )L's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Sweden
Posts: 184
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 81 Post(s)
Liked: 41
John,on those LG 2017 models is there an option for DV night/day or warm1/warm2 so you can do a quick compare between cal/uncal,did you found a way to revert it back to normal?

Calman Enthusiast,Lightspace HTP,Klein K-10A,I1pro2,Murideo 6G.
T( )( )L is offline  
post #84 of 743 Old 08-05-2017, 11:09 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 2,867
Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2282 Post(s)
Liked: 2486
Quote:
Originally Posted by T( )( )L View Post
John,on those LG 2017 models is there an option for DV night/day or warm1/warm2 so you can do a quick compare between cal/uncal,did you found a way to revert it back to normal?
There is a DV night/day, it's called Cinema(user)/Cinema Home, but they don't have equivalent controls like ISF dark and bright so you really can't do a quick comparison. At Value Electronics, we have another C7 within 10 ft of the calibrated set that we used to compare calibrated to un-calibrated. According to Tyler, you can revert back to normal by changing the date on the configuration file on the usb drive and when it asks you to update, you click no. I haven't tried it but that's how I understand the process to be.

I was really surprised at the change in the PQ after the calibration. I hope Sony does an equally impressive DV implementation or I might have to exchange my A1 for a C7 lol
T( )( )L likes this.

John
Sony 55A1E / LG 55OLEDE6P
Marantz 7012
Ohm Walsh Speakers
ISF Level II Certified
jrref is offline  
post #85 of 743 Old 08-05-2017, 11:31 PM
Member
 
T( )( )L's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Sweden
Posts: 184
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 81 Post(s)
Liked: 41
Well i have invested so much in equipment i cant afford a 2017 model now,guess i will get one on black friday
rajdawar and jrref like this.

Calman Enthusiast,Lightspace HTP,Klein K-10A,I1pro2,Murideo 6G.
T( )( )L is offline  
post #86 of 743 Old 08-06-2017, 03:00 AM
Advanced Member
 
bob brennan's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Westchester County, NY
Posts: 807
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 125 Post(s)
Liked: 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrref View Post
For those who are interested, we did a Dolby Vision calibration on a C7 at Value Electronics today and we found that in addition to the 2 pt., you need to do a very thorough 20 point adjustment as per the workflow instructions. Although it was pretty tricky since you are working with HDR level patches and it took a long time to complete, the results were amazing. Playing a couple of DV videos, it was the best picture that Robert and myself have ever seen. The specular highlights, overall balance and the skin tones were near "perfect". Nothing is perfect but this was an incremental improvement and well worth the time spent. I would say the picture looks a "incrementally" better than the HDR10 on the A1E with the same content. Hopefully Sony will do a good job with their DV implementation. The person who bought this set from VE with the DV calibration, is going to be very happy

Also, I'm guessing not many people are doing DV calibrations on their LG's because the 2pt high controls are backwards, if you raise them, the luminance lowers and vice versa. It has to be a bug and I will report it once i'm 100% sure.

I'll post the DV Calman post calibration scans tomorrow but I can tell you that the end result after the updated configuration file is loaded, is almost perfect. The CMS can be better as with HDR10 but the DV CMS, I think looks better after the calibration. I understand that D-Nice is doing a DV calibration today as well so we will see what he has to say as well.
Thanks for the update. Looking to pick-up LG 65E7P or 77G7P, OPPO 203 and possibly the calibration service offered at VE this fall. I know everything at VE is high quality but had many questions about the calibration service being offered. Glad to hear all is going well. See you guys in October!

LG OLED 77G7P - Panasonic TC-P65ZT60 OPPO UDP-203 - Toshiba HD-DVD-3A – Harmony ONE
Marantz SR7011 - Definitive Technology - Studio Monitor 65 (2) - CS8040HD - Studio Monitor 45 (2) - Super Cube 6000
bob brennan is online now  
post #87 of 743 Old 08-06-2017, 12:32 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 2,867
Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2282 Post(s)
Liked: 2486
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrref View Post
For those who are interested, we did a Dolby Vision calibration on a C7 at Value Electronics today and we found that in addition to the 2 pt., you need to do a very thorough 20 point adjustment as per the workflow instructions. Although it was pretty tricky since you are working with HDR level patches and it took a long time to complete, the results were amazing. Playing a couple of DV videos, it was the best picture that Robert and myself have ever seen. The specular highlights, overall balance and the skin tones were near "perfect". Nothing is perfect but this was an incremental improvement and well worth the time spent. I would say the picture looks a "incrementally" better than the HDR10 on the A1E with the same content. Hopefully Sony will do a good job with their DV implementation. The person who bought this set from VE with the DV calibration, is going to be very happy

Also, I'm guessing not many people are doing DV calibrations on their LG's because the 2pt high controls are backwards, if you raise them, the luminance lowers and vice versa. It has to be a bug and I will report it once i'm 100% sure.

I'll post the DV Calman post calibration scans tomorrow but I can tell you that the end result after the updated configuration file is loaded, is almost perfect. The CMS can be better as with HDR10 but the DV CMS, I think looks better after the calibration. I understand that D-Nice is doing a DV calibration today as well so we will see what he has to say as well.
Here are the Calman scans.
Dolby Vision 20 pt in Bypass Mode
Dolby Vision 20pt/EOTF Normal Mode with new configuration file. I took this scan with the original config file for comparison but I forgot to change the generator to Absolute so the scan is no good. I'll take another scan on the next set I calibrate for comparison.
Dolby Vision Post Calibration.

FYI, the graphs look a little bumpy because I left the scale low so you can see the details. Everything is well under deltaE of 1 and i'm not sure if I took more time that the DV result with the new config file would be that much more accurate. As it turned out, the DV EOTF scans look great. , Colors a little off and could be better but that's the way the LG is.

Edit: Here is the contents of the DV Config File that is created with the calibration. I don't know of any way to look at the one that comes with the set to do a comparison but the data is interesting. Look at Tmin. So in order to read this value accurately you need a Klein K10A or something equivalent? I used a Klein K-10A profiled for this specific screen for the calibration.
>>>
# Dolby Vision User Display Configuration File
# Generated by 5.8.1.34 on 8/5/2017
# Display: Unspecified
# DM Version:
PictureMode = 2
Tmax = 727.495790564376
Tmin = 0.000532037393224323
Tgamma = 2.2
ColorPrimaries = 0.6764 0.3229 0.2637 0.6662 0.1428 0.0550 0.3127 0.3290
TLMS2RGBmat = 4.25303487666434 -3.38732902084546 0.134294144181122 -0.933524118384927 2.08799362254159 -0.154469504156665 0.0648913008090558 -0.148299602934989 1.08340830212593
<<<
Attached Images
File Type: jpeg C7DVBypassGrayScale.jpeg (314.0 KB, 156 views)
File Type: jpeg C7DVGrayScale.jpeg (275.1 KB, 121 views)
File Type: jpeg C7DVPostCal.jpeg (208.9 KB, 134 views)
T( )( )L likes this.

John
Sony 55A1E / LG 55OLEDE6P
Marantz 7012
Ohm Walsh Speakers
ISF Level II Certified

Last edited by jrref; 08-06-2017 at 01:21 PM.
jrref is offline  
post #88 of 743 Old 08-06-2017, 02:17 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
ConnecTEDDD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Athens, Greece
Posts: 5,539
Mentioned: 64 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1733 Post(s)
Liked: 2135
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrref View Post
Tmin = 0.000532037393224323
Hi John,

Tmin is your measured black level, you have a light leakage from your notebook screen which affected the Black measurement with your Klein K-10A because it's ultra sensitive to such low luminance readings. Cover or close the notebook screen while you measure Black next time to have a correct measured black level (0 nits)
ERuiz likes this.

Ted's LightSpace CMS Calibration Disk Free Version for Free Calibration Software: LightSpace DPS / CalMAN ColorChecker / HCFR
S/W: LightSpace CMS, SpaceMan ICC, SpaceMatch DCM, CalMAN 5, CalMAN RGB, ChromaPure, ControlCAL
V/P: eeColor 3D LUT Box - P/G: DVDO AVLab TPG
Meters: JETI Specbos 1211, Klein K-10A, i1PRO2, i1PRO, SpectraCAL C6, i1D3, C5
ConnecTEDDD is online now  
post #89 of 743 Old 08-06-2017, 02:23 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 2,867
Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2282 Post(s)
Liked: 2486
Quote:
Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
Hi John,

Tmin is your measured black level, you have a light leakage from your notebook screen which affected the Black measurement with your Klein K-10A because it's ultra sensitive to such low luminance readings. Cover or close the notebook screen while you measure Black next time to have a correct measured black level (0 nits)
You know I did, maybe it was the reflection off of my face lol. I was working in an almost pitch black room but next time maybe i'll just go in and change the value to 0.0 because that's what it should be.

Edit: I'm also going to check to see if I can override black to zero in calman. The switch should be in this workflow.

John
Sony 55A1E / LG 55OLEDE6P
Marantz 7012
Ohm Walsh Speakers
ISF Level II Certified

Last edited by jrref; 08-07-2017 at 05:49 AM.
jrref is offline  
post #90 of 743 Old 08-06-2017, 07:04 PM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Wetumpka, AL
Posts: 17,407
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1704 Post(s)
Liked: 731
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrref View Post
You know I did, maybe it was the reflection off of my face lol. I was working in an almost pitch black room but next time maybe i'll just go in and change the value to 0.0 because that's what it should be.
There is also the feature in chromasurf where you can set black. Did you use that?
jrref likes this.
JimP is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply Display Calibration

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off