Eye-One Display2 - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 109 Old 08-01-2007, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ludvig_S View Post

You're right, the difference between LT and D2 was ~$100 here in Sweden.

The equipment are Panasonic DVD-S99 and BenQ8720.

Definitely see if you can return the Display2 since the LT saves you quite a bit of money.

Bill

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post #92 of 109 Old 09-13-2007, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ludvig_S View Post

You're right, the difference between LT and D2 was ~$100 here in Sweden.

The equipment are Panasonic DVD-S99 and BenQ8720.

Where can you buy LT in Sweden, how much was it in kruunu ? I live in Finland but maybe they also sell here.
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post #93 of 109 Old 09-24-2007, 09:53 AM
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Thought I'd jump back in here real quick...

So I think i will pick up the EyeOne Display LT per the recommendation, and will probably be using HCFR.

My plan is to use a screen offset, and then calibrate the PJ with the Display LT pointed at the PJ. I have read various posts about baffles, etc, and HCFR not having to correct settings to use the Display LT pointed at the PJ.

Can anyone shed some light onto how to get the best results with Display LT and HCFR? I don't need a full tutorial, just an idea of how to orient the probe and whether or not I should be using the diffuser or not, and what settings i should be using in HCFR.

Thanks
Patrick <---- calibration noob...be gentle
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post #94 of 109 Old 09-25-2007, 06:46 PM
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Hi
Is the D2 lt ok for crt front projection with the HCFR software and facing sensor to crt projector, are the buffles needed for that configuration?, or is a spyder2 better?

Just not quite sure which to buy for my crt projector.

If your getting the reading off the screen, how do you do that without blocking the crt beams?

Thanks Guys
Ryan

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post #95 of 109 Old 02-15-2012, 04:17 PM
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In theory if I bought a eye-one LT could it be "turned" into the D2 if I acquired the D2 software from a friend? Or is there some hardware/firmware lockout?

Has anyone tried this? I can get a new LT for $100.
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post #96 of 109 Old 02-18-2012, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob ross View Post

In theory if I bought a eye-one LT could it be "turned" into the D2 if I acquired the D2 software from a friend? Or is there some hardware/firmware lockout?

Has anyone tried this? I can get a new LT for $100.

The LT is locked to the X-Rite LT software.

Derek

CTO / Founder - SpectraCal Inc.
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post #97 of 109 Old 02-18-2012, 12:22 PM
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Quote:


In theory if I bought a eye-one LT could it be "turned" into the D2 if I acquired the D2 software from a friend? Or is there some hardware/firmware lockout?

Has anyone tried this? I can get a new LT for $100.

The LT is the same hardware as the D2 except for the software - that you don't require if you're using it with HCFR. See here.

bruce
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post #98 of 109 Old 02-18-2012, 12:26 PM
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Thank you Derek!

BTW looking at your site. Might be talking the CalMAN DIY Software w/ OEM i1Display plunge!
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post #99 of 109 Old 02-18-2012, 02:36 PM
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My idisplay 2 just arrived today to calibrate my LG 60" PZ950 Plasma. I know I can use built in inner mode for IRE, or can download the HCFR. Which one should I use for best results? including things like sharp bright and contrast.

I'm a total noob to calibrating beyond using a DVD to optimize so any help is much appreciated!

Thanks
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post #100 of 109 Old 02-18-2012, 02:59 PM
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What's the built in inner mode? Never heard of that.

If you mean the software it comes with, that edits a pc's video card tables and If that pc is your source then you can at least start with that.
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post #101 of 109 Old 02-18-2012, 03:10 PM
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My tv has a feature in Expert Settings where you change from outer to inner and it shows the grayscale from IRE 5 to 100. I am sorry if didn't explain right.
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post #102 of 109 Old 02-18-2012, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derod68 View Post

My tv has a feature in Expert Settings where you change from outer to inner and it shows the grayscale from IRE 5 to 100. I am sorry if didn't explain right.

does it display windows or full fields? if it is the latter like with my LG LCD TV, it will be entirely useless on a plasma

in any case, using a test pattern disc from the BD or DVD player is preferable since it factors in the disc player into your calibration
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post #103 of 109 Old 02-18-2012, 03:18 PM
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Full screens. What do you then recommend for my plasma? The colorimeter HCFR software ran with the id2? Or other?

Maybe I'm in over my head...sigh.
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post #104 of 109 Old 02-18-2012, 04:08 PM
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Don't worry, HCFR is a great starting point.
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post #105 of 109 Old 02-18-2012, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derod68 View Post

Full screens. What do you then recommend for my plasma? The colorimeter HCFR software ran with the id2? Or other?

Maybe I'm in over my head...sigh.

What I'm saying is you need a pattern source when calibrating with ColorHCFR and the D2. You shouldn't use the generator within ColorHCFR and you shouldn't use the patterns built into the LG TV. Instead you need a DVD or BD disk with grayscale and color window patterns you can play with your DVD or BD player. A good disc can be burned for free on a DVD or BD and played off a BD player is found here.

Whether you use ColorHCFR, CalMAN, or ChromaPure has nothing to do with the point I'm making.
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post #106 of 109 Old 02-18-2012, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derod68 View Post

Maybe I'm in over my head...sigh.

We all started off WAY over our heads. That's the nature of this hobby, and also also a big part of the joy.

If you haven't seen it yet, here's an awesome guide to get you going on this calibration journey: GREYSCALE & COLOUR CALIBRATION FOR DUMMIES

I'd be willing to bet many of the hobbyists/enthusiasts on this site got their start from this guide. I know I did.
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post #107 of 109 Old 02-22-2012, 02:43 PM
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derod68, if you purchase the i1D2 and Calman DIY license combo from Spectracal, you will get a copy of Get Gray on DVD which has the window patterns for both color and grayscale. I've used both Get Gray and the AVS disc, and both are good!
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post #108 of 109 Old 02-22-2012, 04:55 PM
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Thank all you guys for your help!...

I was confused at first but I am know getting it slowly but surely. I actually was able to do the greyscale calibration thru the curtpalme site and got REALLY GOOD results with color temp only. Didnt get to do the other calibrations for primary or the other stuff lower in the page. Gamma was off and not too sure how to get more brightness out of tv as result was a little too dark for my preferential taste.

I am using the Rec 709 Disc and the Disney WOW for contrast and brightness as I don't have the DVE disc.

Where I was confused before is I thought the HCFR provided the greyscale IRE steps and wasn't sure to use the ones built into tv which has from 5 to 100. Obviously, used the one one on tv.

I calibrated sensor with inside of black plastic garbage pale (cleaned of course). My tv is Plasma LG 60 PZ950.

I am going to give another go and will focus on gamma, brightness and contrast a little more next time.

Here was my problem...I had upgraded the HCFR software and couldn't get all to balance once hit 15 IRE and beyond. Once I downgraded back to v2.0.1....BINGO!! I will try to post before and after 2nd time.

Like I said before, I am a TOTAL NOOB but I like the challenge and learning as I go along.

Please forgive my silly questions...

1. Do you guys recommend using the set up as described on site by measuring ftl? Or is my calibration disc ample to do contrast and brightness?

2. I usually like cooler temperature in colors. Will it totally defeat purpose if I switch to medium after greyscale calibration?

3. Does meter measure MLL after calibration? Where/How if so?

I have many more questions but don't want to bombard you with my ignorance.

Again...thanks all for sharing!
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post #109 of 109 Old 02-23-2012, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derod68 View Post

Thank all you guys for your help!...

I was confused at first but I am know getting it slowly but surely. I actually was able to do the greyscale calibration thru the curtpalme site and got REALLY GOOD results with color temp only. Didnt get to do the other calibrations for primary or the other stuff lower in the page. Gamma was off and not too sure how to get more brightness out of tv as result was a little too dark for my preferential taste.

I am using the Rec 709 Disc and the Disney WOW for contrast and brightness as I don't have the DVE disc.

Where I was confused before is I thought the HCFR provided the greyscale IRE steps and wasn't sure to use the ones built into tv which has from 5 to 100. Obviously, used the one one on tv.

I calibrated sensor with inside of black plastic garbage pale (cleaned of course). My tv is Plasma LG 60 PZ950.

I am going to give another go and will focus on gamma, brightness and contrast a little more next time.

Here was my problem...I had upgraded the HCFR software and couldn't get all to balance once hit 15 IRE and beyond. Once I downgraded back to v2.0.1....BINGO!! I will try to post before and after 2nd time.

Like I said before, I am a TOTAL NOOB but I like the challenge and learning as I go along.

Please forgive my silly questions...

1. Do you guys recommend using the set up as described on site by measuring ftl? Or is my calibration disc ample to do contrast and brightness?

2. I usually like cooler temperature in colors. Will it totally defeat purpose if I switch to medium after greyscale calibration?

3. Does meter measure MLL after calibration? Where/How if so?

I have many more questions but don't want to bombard you with my ignorance.

Again...thanks all for sharing!

1. Contrast and Brightness should be done by eye using the pluge patterns for light and dark. Brightness impacts your black level and Contrast impacts your brightest white point. These need to be set by eye, because a meter has no idea whether your crushing blacks or whites. The only time a measurement comes in handy for this is if you get to a 100 contrast setting, and you're still not crushing whites. With a large plasma, you've likely got some power saving system built-in, so contrast in particular may have a big impact on both gamma and white balance, and you likely will be nowhere near a 100 contrast setting. I just recently calibrated a 65" Panasonic VT30, and I believe 72 was as high as I could go on contrast before it would start impacting gamma and white balance.

2. You don't want to make changes after calibrating, as it would defeat the purpose. Instead, calibrate to a different white point. If you think 6500K is too warm, try moving up in increments. This will still give you a uniform grayscale, which will look better overall.

3.I would recommend waiting until after grayscale and gamma calibration to even bother with measuring absolute black (if at all). Personally, absolute black readings from a meter that may or may not be accurate down that low mean very little to me. I would rather ensure uncompromised shadow detail over maximizing an absolute black measurement.

Feel free to ask away as far as other questions. This forum is a great resource for the DIY types, and believe me, we've all been there at some point!
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