Color HCFR Calibration Discussion (Post your calibration files here) - Page 25 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #721 of 3872 Old 04-25-2007, 10:17 AM
AVS Special Member
 
pdawg17's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Cali
Posts: 1,787
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by colin6969 View Post

I like your 10-100 one personally. I would go one or two clicks up on red-cut and you'd be about right.

Your blue behavies the same as my 9uk via hdmi. tricky to balance.

edit: must be running 2.5 gamma. you can try 2.2 if you'd like, unless it's always a light controlled environment.

I watch some occasional tv during the day but most of my tv watching is at night in a close to or completely dark room...I've tried 2.2 before and it seemed a bit harder to dial in than 2.5 but I haven't tried with the SM...have you found 2.2 to dial in a bit better?

And Colin: Do you have an "up-to-date" HDMI chc file I could check out just to see where you ended up?
pdawg17 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #722 of 3872 Old 04-25-2007, 10:21 AM
AVS Special Member
 
zoyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Planet Dog
Posts: 5,000
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 430 Post(s)
Liked: 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdawg17 View Post

So just knock down the saturation a couple then, huh? And what to do for the slight red push?

I think the chroma adjustment R-Y controls red saturation so try to back that off a click or two, see what happens after lower color first.
zoyd is offline  
post #723 of 3872 Old 04-25-2007, 10:38 AM
Senior Member
 
colin6969's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Land of 10,000 Lakes
Posts: 395
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdawg17 View Post

I watch some occasional tv during the day but most of my tv watching is at night in a close to or completely dark room...I've tried 2.2 before and it seemed a bit harder to dial in than 2.5 but I haven't tried with the SM...have you found 2.2 to dial in a bit better?

And Colin: Do you have an "up-to-date" HDMI chc file I could check out just to see where you ended up?

2.2 was maybe a bit trickier, but the end result was similar in terms of average dE.

I'll post an updated HDMI chc in a couple of days. I need to use my zoyd-matrix-corrected sensor on my HDMI and redo. I can tell you that my average dE is no better than yours.

Notice your gamma take that huge dive at the peak? I noticed that on 2.5 gamma via HDMI. 2.5 tries to ramp up really high at the end and ends up peaking a bit too early. 2.2 maintained a fairly flat 'log mode' gamma, which is the main reason i stuck with it. Perhaps it rises out of black a bit quicker than i'd prefer though.
colin6969 is offline  
post #724 of 3872 Old 04-25-2007, 01:10 PM
AVS Special Member
 
jdbimmer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,007
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Here is my first run using the i1 Pro on a Panasonic TH-50PHD8Uk using GetGray, Oppo DVD, HDMI 720p, RGB . I was able to do this fairly quickly, starting with the Warm temp, running continous measures at 80% then 20%, and repeating 2 times. The greyscale is fairly smooth from 10 to 100%, with a couple of bumps and dips in blue levels. I will need to redo this since I forgot to fix my WTW and my Black Level adjustment was at 1 rather than 0.

-JD

 

i1_2.zip 47.2177734375k . file
jdbimmer is offline  
post #725 of 3872 Old 04-25-2007, 01:14 PM
Member
 
AboveBeyond's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 55
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Can someone give me a few pointers:

My Samsung should arrive today and I have question on use ColorHCFR in conjunction with my Eye-One Display 2 probe.

My first question since its going to be hooked up to my PC, do I need to preset my video card resolution to match the LCD TV prior to hookup?

Do I basically follow the onscreen instructions using ColorHCFR once its starts? My only other experience is the software that came with the Display 2, which was step-by-step and screen to screen followthrough.

Any other tips or specials things to do?

Thanks for the help guys.
AboveBeyond is offline  
post #726 of 3872 Old 04-25-2007, 02:43 PM
AVS Special Member
 
richlo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,465
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdbimmer View Post

Here is my first run using the i1 Pro on a Panasonic TH-50PHD8Uk using GetGray, Oppo DVD, HDMI 720p, RGB . I was able to do this fairly quickly, starting with the Warm temp, running continous measures at 80% then 20%, and repeating 2 times. The greyscale is fairly smooth from 10 to 100%, with a couple of bumps and dips in blue levels. I will need to redo this since I forgot to fix my WTW and my Black Level adjustment was at 1 rather than 0.

-JD

the only thing i cansuggest is reducing contrast and brightness one or two clicks each to get gamma in line

Rich L

Go Chicago Bears

richlo is offline  
post #727 of 3872 Old 04-25-2007, 03:48 PM
AVS Special Member
 
pdawg17's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Cali
Posts: 1,787
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdbimmer View Post

Here is my first run using the i1 Pro on a Panasonic TH-50PHD8Uk using GetGray, Oppo DVD, HDMI 720p, RGB . I was able to do this fairly quickly, starting with the Warm temp, running continous measures at 80% then 20%, and repeating 2 times. The greyscale is fairly smooth from 10 to 100%, with a couple of bumps and dips in blue levels. I will need to redo this since I forgot to fix my WTW and my Black Level adjustment was at 1 rather than 0.

-JD

Yours looks really good...is that over HDMI or component? I ask because for the life of me I cannot get IRE10 anywhere near in line with the rest on my 9UK over HDMI...I'll try gamma 2.2 tonight and see what happens but at 2.5 every run I've done (20%-80% or 30%-80%), the color temp takes a dive to the warm end at IRE10 compared to IRE20...I'm also going to retry with zoyd's matrix values as well...
pdawg17 is offline  
post #728 of 3872 Old 04-25-2007, 03:57 PM
Senior Member
 
colin6969's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Land of 10,000 Lakes
Posts: 395
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdawg17 View Post

Yours looks really good...is that over HDMI or component? I ask because for the life of me I cannot get IRE10 anywhere near in line with the rest on my 9UK over HDMI...I'll try gamma 2.2 tonight and see what happens but at 2.5 every run I've done (20%-80% or 30%-80%), the color temp takes a dive to the warm end at IRE10 compared to IRE20...I'm also going to retry with zoyd's matrix values as well...

Reading those low IREs at 2.2 gamma will be easier than 2.5 as the lows will be brighter....your sensor will have an easier time. I also put measurement time up to 500 and 'extent readtime in dark measurements' with my S2. I tend to trust it down to about 15IRE.

When you're down that low....I'm not sure 'stable' always translates to 'accurate' either...

keep in mind, jdbimmer was using an i1 pro.
colin6969 is offline  
post #729 of 3872 Old 04-25-2007, 04:38 PM
AVS Special Member
 
jdbimmer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,007
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by richlo View Post

the only thing i cansuggest is reducing contrast and brightness one or two clicks each to get gamma in line

And that is the tricky part for me with this display. I will set Black Extension to 0, and adjust my WTW, and then adjust from there.

I think someone (Zoyd?) posted something about using SubBrightness in the service menu on a Panasonic 600 to change the rise out of black to even things out. I don't know what it does on the 8UK.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pdawg17 View Post

Yours looks really good...is that over HDMI or component?

This is HDMI-720p set to RGB from my Oppo DVD player. I lose my Color and Tint control on this set by using RGB, but since I have an SA8300HD (which is RGB only) on the same HDMI input (through a switch), I went with RGB from the Oppo too. And the Secondaries line up pretty well, and agree with the blue filter check, so I really don't need the Color/Tint controls anyway.

AS Colin6969 suggested to you, I measured the 8UK with User Menu Gamma at 2.2 - the 2.5 setting seems too dark to me.

Compared to the i1 Pro, my S2 in LCD mode measured a decent +.003 for both x and y at 10 and 20 "IRE"; at higher levels it was less accurate. The S2 read time was set to 500ms and "extended dark" as Colin suggested.

I wouldn't worry too much about the readings at 10. I believe I have read that even 20 IRE is less than 2.7 % of total output.

-JD
jdbimmer is offline  
post #730 of 3872 Old 04-25-2007, 04:47 PM
AVS Special Member
 
zoyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Planet Dog
Posts: 5,000
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 430 Post(s)
Liked: 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdbimmer View Post

I think someone (Zoyd?) posted something about using SubBrightness in the service menu on a Panasonic 600 to change the rise out of black to even things out. I don't know what it does on the 8UK.
-JD

sub-brt is a 10 bit control and just gives a finer control over black level, I typically use it for two things, center user brightness and set 5% patch around .3 cd/m^2.
zoyd is offline  
post #731 of 3872 Old 04-25-2007, 05:00 PM
AVS Special Member
 
jdbimmer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,007
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

sub-brt is a 10 bit control and just gives a finer control over black level, I typically use it for two things, center user brightness and set 5% patch around .3 cd/m^2.

Okay, so I can fine tune brightness instead of those coarse jumps in the user control betwen -3 and +3. Cool, thanks!
jdbimmer is offline  
post #732 of 3872 Old 04-25-2007, 05:48 PM
AVS Special Member
 
pdawg17's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Cali
Posts: 1,787
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by colin6969 View Post

Reading those low IREs at 2.2 gamma will be easier than 2.5 as the lows will be brighter....your sensor will have an easier time. I also put measurement time up to 500 and 'extent readtime in dark measurements' with my S2. I tend to trust it down to about 15IRE.

When you're down that low....I'm not sure 'stable' always translates to 'accurate' either...

keep in mind, jdbimmer was using an i1 pro.

So should I not worry too much about 10IRE when trying to "perfect" my calibration? Should I focus on getting the rest dialed in? I don't think I can have both (at least with the D2)...if I try to improve 10IRE, it throws off other IREs up the chain...
pdawg17 is offline  
post #733 of 3872 Old 04-25-2007, 06:02 PM
Senior Member
 
colin6969's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Land of 10,000 Lakes
Posts: 395
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdawg17 View Post

So should I not worry too much about 10IRE when trying to "perfect" my calibration? Should I focus on getting the rest dialed in? I don't think I can have both (at least with the D2)...if I try to improve 10IRE, it throws off other IREs up the chain...

I think when evaluating that low, your eyes are probably the way to go. Unless you've contructed a fancy HCFR custom probe i suppose.

I'm not saying that the readings aren't 'telling'....most of the time when i see it spike way red @10IRE, I can also see it.....there's a compromise at some point of getting rid of 'really bad looking' 5-10-15 IRE levels manually....and maintaining a well measured 20-100IRE. That's been my experience so far at least.
colin6969 is offline  
post #734 of 3872 Old 04-25-2007, 06:41 PM
Member
 
Steffche's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 173
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Liked: 10
After receiving info from Michael which confirmed that SOny Bravia LCD's calibrate around 900K warmer than they should (when using an S2 or an EyeOne D2) when compared to a more professional sensor, I decided to calibrate my Sony LCD TV to 7500k instead of 6500k using HCFR and c\\hanging the whitepoint to D75 in teh preferences.

The results are more pleasing to the eye, and I have posted my results below.

Primaries (green especially) are still a little out, but my question is in regards to Gamma. Whats going on with the green and blue spiking up towards the end?

I also couldn't get much more contrast out of it before the red started to dip off at higehr IRE's. Is 80 too low for illumanance at 100IRE?

 

sony best.zip 4.4658203125k . file
Steffche is offline  
post #735 of 3872 Old 04-25-2007, 09:02 PM
AVS Special Member
 
spongebob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Jose, Ca.
Posts: 2,851
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdbimmer View Post

Here is my first run using the i1 Pro on a Panasonic TH-50PHD8Uk using GetGray, Oppo DVD, HDMI 720p, RGB . I was able to do this fairly quickly, starting with the Warm temp, running continous measures at 80% then 20%, and repeating 2 times. The greyscale is fairly smooth from 10 to 100%, with a couple of bumps and dips in blue levels. I will need to redo this since I forgot to fix my WTW and my Black Level adjustment was at 1 rather than 0.

-JD


Nice, maybe I need an i1 Pro?


bob
spongebob is offline  
post #736 of 3872 Old 04-25-2007, 09:04 PM
AVS Special Member
 
spongebob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Jose, Ca.
Posts: 2,851
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdawg17 View Post

Yours looks really good...is that over HDMI or component? I ask because for the life of me I cannot get IRE10 anywhere near in line with the rest on my 9UK over HDMI...I'll try gamma 2.2 tonight and see what happens but at 2.5 every run I've done (20%-80% or 30%-80%), the color temp takes a dive to the warm end at IRE10 compared to IRE20...I'm also going to retry with zoyd's matrix values as well...


Maybe the Pro sensor?


bob
spongebob is offline  
post #737 of 3872 Old 04-25-2007, 09:14 PM
Senior Member
 
colin6969's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Land of 10,000 Lakes
Posts: 395
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
your accuracy (or cost) of sensor does not mean a display will be easier/harder to calibrate, just that you may get a result that is more or less optimal as an end result.
colin6969 is offline  
post #738 of 3872 Old 04-25-2007, 11:26 PM
AVS Special Member
 
jdbimmer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,007
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by colin6969 View Post

your accuracy (or cost) of sensor does not mean a display will be easier/harder to calibrate, just that you may get a result that is more or less optimal as an end result.

I agree. I don't have any experience with the 9Uk, but the 8UK model may just be easier to calibrate...and the trade-off is that it floats blacks, which is not an issue in the 9UK. A faster reading probe does help with continuous measures, and the i1 and DTP94 (maybe the D2 too?) both do better than the S2 in that category.

I have also found that different DVD players and different PC's (using HCFR View Images via analog or DVI-HDMI inputs) give different results with regard to the smoothness of the measured RGB levels. And the same PC source results can vary when selecting Windows (VR9) or Overlay mode. These differences seem to be at the source and not at the display.

-JD
jdbimmer is offline  
post #739 of 3872 Old 04-26-2007, 01:11 AM
AVS Special Member
 
pdawg17's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Cali
Posts: 1,787
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by colin6969 View Post

I like your 10-100 one personally. I would go one or two clicks up on red-cut and you'd be about right.

Your blue behavies the same as my 9uk via hdmi. tricky to balance.

edit: must be running 2.5 gamma. you can try 2.2 if you'd like, unless it's always a light controlled environment.

Colin-

I know when using the SM that you keep your weakest color (in my case, red) at FC for gain and adjust G,B...but how about for cuts? For that I was also leaving red alone and adjusting G,B...is it ok to adjust all three for cuts then? You mentioned clicking the red cut up 1-2 clicks so I wanted to be sure that "works"...
pdawg17 is offline  
post #740 of 3872 Old 04-26-2007, 06:28 AM
AVS Special Member
 
zoyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Planet Dog
Posts: 5,000
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 430 Post(s)
Liked: 417
pdawg: yes, you can use red cut to tweak low end.

Here is the best I can do with the panny 600U and the i1pro. Average dE=2 from 10-100% 6500+/- 150K. They are just tough beasties to tame. Also did one other interesting measurement, the variation in dark level with white level by measuring in the black border.

It starts out at ~0.04 cd/m^2, immediately jumps up to 0.08 and bounces around there for awhile, gradually decreases to 0.06 and then takes a big jump at ~50 cd/m^2 (70% stimulus) to 0.15 cd/m^2



So the maximum attainable contrast ratio for this set occurs at 65% stimulus and is equal to 908. From 70% to 100% the contrast ratio varies from 388 to 753.

 

i1pro_best_nosm.zip 7.435546875k . file
zoyd is offline  
post #741 of 3872 Old 04-26-2007, 07:14 AM
AVS Special Member
 
zoyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Planet Dog
Posts: 5,000
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 430 Post(s)
Liked: 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by AboveBeyond View Post

Can someone give me a few pointers:

My Samsung should arrive today and I have question on use ColorHCFR in conjunction with my Eye-One Display 2 probe.

My first question since its going to be hooked up to my PC, do I need to preset my video card resolution to match the LCD TV prior to hookup?

Do I basically follow the onscreen instructions using ColorHCFR once its starts? My only other experience is the software that came with the Display 2, which was step-by-step and screen to screen followthrough.

Any other tips or specials things to do?

Thanks for the help guys.

hey above,

ColorHCFR does not lead you through the process, you have to learn some of the basics of what you are trying to achieve and then manually step through various display patterns using the PC or a DVD disk. It's not simple, but then again it's not that difficult either, it just takes some time to get used to the procedures but that's what the forum is for. If you don't want to invest the time in learning the process you could start out with one of the test disks like AVIA or DVE which walk you through the basics of calibration.
zoyd is offline  
post #742 of 3872 Old 04-26-2007, 07:20 AM
AVS Special Member
 
zoyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Planet Dog
Posts: 5,000
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 430 Post(s)
Liked: 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steffche View Post

After receiving info from Michael which confirmed that SOny Bravia LCD's calibrate around 900K warmer than they should (when using an S2 or an EyeOne D2) when compared to a more professional sensor, I decided to calibrate my Sony LCD TV to 7500k instead of 6500k using HCFR and c\\hanging the whitepoint to D75 in teh preferences.

The results are more pleasing to the eye, and I have posted my results below.

Primaries (green especially) are still a little out, but my question is in regards to Gamma. Whats going on with the green and blue spiking up towards the end?

I also couldn't get much more contrast out of it before the red started to dip off at higehr IRE's. Is 80 too low for illumanance at 100IRE?

Gray scale looks good, maybe needs a tweak at 30-40 IRE but not much. Looks like the gamma on your set is like the vivid mode on mine, it's smile shaped to up contrast at the high and low ends. So it's not that G/B are spiking, it's that R can't keep up at the high end. 80 cd/m^2 at 100% is low but it's probably the probe, not your set as LCD's can get quite bright (150 cd/m^2), what probe are you using and how is it positioned?
zoyd is offline  
post #743 of 3872 Old 04-26-2007, 08:19 AM
Senior Member
 
colin6969's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Land of 10,000 Lakes
Posts: 395
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

hey above,

ColorHCFR does not lead you through the process, you have to learn some of the basics of what you are trying to achieve and then manually step through various display patterns using the PC or a DVD disk. It's not simple, but then again it's not that difficult either, it just takes some time to get used to the procedures but that's what the forum is for. If you don't want to invest the time in learning the process you could start out with one of the test disks like AVIA or DVE which walk you through the basics of calibration.

The HCFR crew did mention that in v2, they're going to have a 'hand-holding mode' as well as an advance mode, fyi.
colin6969 is offline  
post #744 of 3872 Old 04-26-2007, 08:22 AM
Advanced Member
 
laric's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Montpellier, France
Posts: 835
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
True, so far the "hand-holding" mode is not complete... advance is done (although some feature are not yet fully there).

--Patrice

French speaking home theater HCFR Forum
laric is offline  
post #745 of 3872 Old 04-26-2007, 08:32 AM
Senior Member
 
colin6969's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Land of 10,000 Lakes
Posts: 395
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

pdawg: yes, you can use red cut to tweak low end.

Here is the best I can do with the panny 600U and the i1pro. Average dE=2 from 10-100% 6500+/- 150K. They are just tough beasties to tame. Also did one other interesting measurement, the variation in dark level with white level by measuring in the black border.

It starts out at ~0.04 cd/m^2, immediately jumps up to 0.08 and bounces around there for awhile, gradually decreases to 0.06 and then takes a big jump at ~50 cd/m^2 (70% stimulus) to 0.15 cd/m^2

So the maximum attainable contrast ratio for this set occurs at 65% stimulus and is equal to 908. From 70% to 100% the contrast ratio varies from 388 to 753.

Despite the bounciness, my god that grayscale is beautiful....is that actually a stable reading down @ 5-10IRE?....if so, that's just lovely. The smiley face gamma you mentioned doesn't really look all that offensive.

Regarding your floating blacks.....how certain can you be that the ambient light from the 'white part' isn't skewing your black reading?
colin6969 is offline  
post #746 of 3872 Old 04-26-2007, 08:53 AM
AVS Special Member
 
zoyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Planet Dog
Posts: 5,000
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 430 Post(s)
Liked: 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by colin6969 View Post

Despite the bounciness, my god that grayscale is beautiful....is that actually a stable reading down @ 5-10IRE?....if so, that's just lovely. The smiley face gamma you mentioned doesn't really look all that offensive.

Yes about the 50-10IRE, the i1pro sensitivity is fantastic. The low IRE color information is repeatable as long as you do the probe's internal offset correction before each run. The Y value at 0 IRE is also repeatable ~0.04 when you average a few samples. The smiley face is more pronounced in vivid mode (this was cinema mode).

Quote:
Regarding your floating blacks.....how certain can you be that the ambient light from the 'white part' isn't skewing your black reading?

yes, quite certain. If ambient or scattered light were a problem the curves would rise proportional to the intensity, instead they are flat (1-45 cd/m^2 they actually drop a bit). The jump at 70 IRE (50 cd/m^2) is easily visible to the eye. Also the spikes at 15 and 40 IRE are repeatable so the panel circuitry is screwing up at those levels.
zoyd is offline  
post #747 of 3872 Old 04-26-2007, 09:23 AM
Senior Member
 
colin6969's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Land of 10,000 Lakes
Posts: 395
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

yes, quite certain. If ambient or scattered light were a problem the curves would rise proportional to the intensity, instead they are flat (1-45 cd/m^2 they actually drop a bit). The jump at 70 IRE (50 cd/m^2) is easily visible to the eye. Also the spikes at 15 and 40 IRE are repeatable so the panel circuitry is screwing up at those levels.

curious, did you just use the basic gg-window patterns for this? I'm going to run this test on my freshly calibrated toshiba CRT.....It should be hilarious to see how high video-black gets when running a high APL.
colin6969 is offline  
post #748 of 3872 Old 04-26-2007, 09:41 AM
AVS Special Member
 
zoyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Planet Dog
Posts: 5,000
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 430 Post(s)
Liked: 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by colin6969 View Post

curious, did you just use the basic gg-window patterns for this? I'm going to run this test on my freshly calibrated toshiba CRT.....It should be hilarious to see how high video-black gets when running a high APL.

yes, gg-window patterns and I placed the probe about 3/4 towards the edge of the black portion. You'll have to get your spyder right on the screen though, they have wide fields of view.
zoyd is offline  
post #749 of 3872 Old 04-26-2007, 06:35 PM
Member
 
Steffche's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 173
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

Gray scale looks good, maybe needs a tweak at 30-40 IRE but not much. Looks like the gamma on your set is like the vivid mode on mine, it's smile shaped to up contrast at the high and low ends. So it's not that G/B are spiking, it's that R can't keep up at the high end. 80 cd/m^2 at 100% is low but it's probably the probe, not your set as LCD's can get quite bright (150 cd/m^2), what probe are you using and how is it positioned?

Eyeone Display2, positioned hard-up against the panel....well not 'hard'...but flush. You know what I mean.

I'm not sure whats happening at 30-40 ire. The Sony circuits seem to be doing some funny stuff at those levels. Thats the best I could get. Its wierd, as blue is too high at one level, red is too low...and vice-versa. Could this be the DVD player causing this? Its the Pioneer 676A via component.
Steffche is offline  
post #750 of 3872 Old 04-26-2007, 07:03 PM
AVS Special Member
 
zoyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Planet Dog
Posts: 5,000
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 430 Post(s)
Liked: 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steffche View Post

Eyeone Display2, positioned hard-up against the panel....well not 'hard'...but flush. You know what I mean.

I'm not sure whats happening at 30-40 ire. The Sony circuits seem to be doing some funny stuff at those levels. Thats the best I could get. Its wierd, as blue is too high at one level, red is too low...and vice-versa. Could this be the DVD player causing this? Its the Pioneer 676A via component.

Does the dvdplayer have any contrast/brightness controls? You'd want to put these all at default, i.e. no adjustments. Does the bravia have an input gain control on the component input? That might get you more normal luminance levels. Also make sure you're using windowed and not full screen patterns although I'm not sure that matters for LCD's
zoyd is offline  
Reply Display Calibration

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off