Basic Guide to Color Calibration using a CMS (updated and enhanced) - Page 66 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1951 of 1971 Old 12-17-2015, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Charles Tintera View Post
Somewhere in this or another string I saw that ChromaPure is at version 3 and orders placed between such and such will get a free update. Am I mistaken? The Blu-ray disc I just received, ordered from the Web page, says "Rev 002".
I could not find any instructions nor audio on this disk.
Finally I notice on the written side that there is a major gap showing between recorded sections. What's up with that?
Did I miss something, a cheat sheet?, in the shipment?
They're on version 2 and are close to releasing version 3.

As to something missing on the disk, you'd probably get a quicker answer if you ask that on the chromapure thread.
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post #1952 of 1971 Old 08-31-2016, 06:57 AM
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If using only the TV's color control due to no cms,I get red 21% Y to white Y (using 100% sat/stim) and my luminance delta for red is -0.3 but my blue delta L says +5.9 is that ok? Should I bring blue under 3 while sacrificing a little red?

What is the Delta L threshold for error? does the + or -3 like for greyscale be the same ?

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post #1953 of 1971 Old 08-31-2016, 12:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterLewis View Post
If using only the TV's color control due to no cms,I get red 21% Y to white Y (using 100% sat/stim) and my luminance delta for red is -0.3 but my blue delta L says +5.9 is that ok? Should I bring blue under 3 while sacrificing a little red?

What is the Delta L threshold for error? does the + or -3 like for greyscale be the same ?
No, I'd stick with what you have. Blue errors are relatively benign. You might try using 75% intensity test patterns to measure rather than 100%. There's no established threshold for dL that I know of.
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post #1954 of 1971 Old 08-31-2016, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by TomHuffman View Post
No, I'd stick with what you have. Blue errors are relatively benign. You might try using 75% intensity test patterns to measure rather than 100%. There's no established threshold for dL that I know of.
Ok,Thanks for your help Tom.

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post #1955 of 1971 Old 08-31-2016, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by PeterLewis View Post
Ok,Thanks for your help Tom.
Hi, also measure and compare what dE average do you have with your current color slider setting using ColorChecker Classic / Skintone patterns. After that measure with other color settings (+1,+2,-1,-2) and compare at the end all the reports to be able to choose the color slider setting which will provide you better performance.
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Ted's LightSpace CMS Calibration Disk Free Version for Free Calibration Software: LightSpace DPS / CalMAN ColorChecker / HCFR
S/W: LightSpace CMS, SpaceMan ICC, SpaceMatch DCM, CalMAN 5, CalMAN RGB, ChromaPure, ControlCAL
V/P: eeColor 3D LUT Box - P/G: DVDO AVLab TPG
Meters: JETI Specbos 1211, Klein K-10A, i1PRO2, i1PRO, SpectraCAL C6, i1D3, C5
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post #1956 of 1971 Old 08-31-2016, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
Hi, also measure and compare what dE average do you have with your current color slider setting using ColorChecker Classic / Skintone patterns. After that measure with other color settings (+1,+2,-1,-2) and compare at the end all the reports to be able to choose the color slider setting which will provide you better performance.
Great advice Ted..thanks

Btw, my 950B shuts off a completely 0% black field pattern,so how would I go around this to do the colorchecker?

Use black 0% window pattern and then the rest full fields or enter a number manually for black via edit?

Sony OLED XBR-65A1E| XBR65X950B|XBR55X900B|2-BR100/Subs|4K X10 Player
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post #1957 of 1971 Old 08-31-2016, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by PeterLewis View Post
Great advice Ted..thanks

Btw, my 950B shuts off a completely 0% black field pattern,so how would I go around this to do the colorchecker?

Use black 0% window pattern and then the rest full fields or enter a number manually for black via edit?
If your player display's a " mark when you pause a pattern, then do this when you will measure Black, to keep the backlight opened. Or press you TV info button to display some text.
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Ted's LightSpace CMS Calibration Disk Free Version for Free Calibration Software: LightSpace DPS / CalMAN ColorChecker / HCFR
S/W: LightSpace CMS, SpaceMan ICC, SpaceMatch DCM, CalMAN 5, CalMAN RGB, ChromaPure, ControlCAL
V/P: eeColor 3D LUT Box - P/G: DVDO AVLab TPG
Meters: JETI Specbos 1211, Klein K-10A, i1PRO2, i1PRO, SpectraCAL C6, i1D3, C5
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post #1958 of 1971 Old 01-23-2017, 04:27 PM
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Hoping to find some guidance for calibration or at least improvement in my Sony Bravia XBR6. I had left it largely alone for a few years and it was at least borderline acceptable for video on one of the included defaults.
Then this year I noted Smugmug had a Roku app and I could easily display my images w/o going through DLNA. Also guest would bring their phone images and I can display them through a phone a roku app.
My images are carefully processed on a calibrated screen so am more sensitive to gross errors in them. Highlights were blown and many colors were too saturated with no tonal detail suggestive of a clipped channel.
My calibration for my photo editing monitor will not work with the TV and I have never adjusted the Sony. I see AVS forum has some type of calibration disk and PC mag recommends a Spears and Munsil disk. Each HDMI input has a video/picture and maybe another option to adjust. I have no clue what the TV thinks it is getting from the Roku stick in my Oppo 103 that plugs into my AVR (NAD T757) I seem to have jumped in over my head but the still images displayed are terrible. I assume it is the TV adjustment as others have used the Roku/Smugmug app and have been satisfied and I know what my images look like on a calibrated screen. Any help much appreciated.
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post #1959 of 1971 Old 01-27-2017, 03:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Usher99 View Post
Hoping to find some guidance for calibration or at least improvement in my Sony Bravia XBR6. I had left it largely alone for a few years and it was at least borderline acceptable for video on one of the included defaults.
Then this year I noted Smugmug had a Roku app and I could easily display my images w/o going through DLNA. Also guest would bring their phone images and I can display them through a phone a roku app.
My images are carefully processed on a calibrated screen so am more sensitive to gross errors in them. Highlights were blown and many colors were too saturated with no tonal detail suggestive of a clipped channel.
My calibration for my photo editing monitor will not work with the TV and I have never adjusted the Sony. I see AVS forum has some type of calibration disk and PC mag recommends a Spears and Munsil disk. Each HDMI input has a video/picture and maybe another option to adjust. I have no clue what the TV thinks it is getting from the Roku stick in my Oppo 103 that plugs into my AVR (NAD T757) I seem to have jumped in over my head but the still images displayed are terrible. I assume it is the TV adjustment as others have used the Roku/Smugmug app and have been satisfied and I know what my images look like on a calibrated screen. Any help much appreciated.
Hi, Blu-Ray/Satellite/Terrestial/Cable signal is using TV/Video Legal Levels (8bit signal has 256 values...Reference Black is 16, Reference White is 235...from the 1-254 transmitted 8bit signal...1,255 are used for timing.)

PC's are working in PC/Data Levels 0-255 (0 is Reference Black, 255 is Reference White)

You can't use pictures to calibrate a consumer TV's for video levels (Blu-Ray) because their image viewers are handling JPG's/PNG's or any Picture files @ 0-255 Data Levels.

This means that even if you create a pattern with reference black RGB Triplet of 16.16.16 (Reference Black @ Video Levels) and save it as JPG.....by loading from TV's USB, the TV will display it as 6.3% Gray, since reference black for Data levels is 0.0.0

Some TV's are handling differently media files playback from their USB and some times there is a mismatch with the playback that they accept from it's HDMI Inputs.

Some TV's are disabling a lot of advanced calibration controls in USB Mode; It's different the video signal processing pipeline also.

For the correct calibration way, you have to calibrate using as a source your actual movie content device (Media Player/Blu-Ray Player).

If you still want to use the USB of your TV as a pattern source, you have to test to see if it matches your player.

If you have meters/software, the best thing to do is to take some measurements (Grayscale/Saturation) from your Blu-Ray player and then use the same patterns to measure them from your USB..... Check the reports to see if the measurements from the both inputs are matching closely under meter repeatability tolerance.

Check also Contrast/Brightness/Sharpness/Clipping patterns using your Player HDMI vs. USB to see if they are matching also.

If you see that the levels/measurements are matching (count the meter repeatability also), then you will be able to use your TV's USB for displaying patterns from Media Files (MP4/MKV) instead of your actual player and later copy the settings you used at USB Input to the HDMI input your player is connected.

If you use only your USB port for movie playback then you don't need to run all these tests.

My calibration disk is available in Media Files format additionally from Blu-Ray format, or you can download the AVSHD which is free (but will less measurement options).

Ted's LightSpace CMS Calibration Disk Free Version for Free Calibration Software: LightSpace DPS / CalMAN ColorChecker / HCFR
S/W: LightSpace CMS, SpaceMan ICC, SpaceMatch DCM, CalMAN 5, CalMAN RGB, ChromaPure, ControlCAL
V/P: eeColor 3D LUT Box - P/G: DVDO AVLab TPG
Meters: JETI Specbos 1211, Klein K-10A, i1PRO2, i1PRO, SpectraCAL C6, i1D3, C5

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post #1960 of 1971 Old 01-29-2017, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
Hi, Blu-Ray/Satellite/Terrestial/Cable signal is using TV/Video Legal Levels (8bit signal has 256 values...Reference Black is 16, Reference White is 235...from the 1-254 transmitted 8bit signal...1,255 are used for timing.)

PC's are working in PC/Data Levels 0-255 (0 is Reference Black, 255 is Reference White)

You can't use pictures to calibrate a consumer TV's for video levels (Blu-Ray) because their image viewers are handling JPG's/PNG's or any Picture files @ 0-255 Data Levels.

This means that even if you create a pattern with reference black RGB Triplet of 16.16.16 (Reference Black @ Video Levels) and save it as JPG.....by loading from TV's USB, the TV will display it as 6.3% Gray, since reference black for Data levels is 0.0.0

Some TV's are handling differently media files playback from their USB and some times there is a mismatch with the playback that they accept from it's HDMI Inputs.

Some TV's are disabling a lot of advanced calibration controls in USB Mode; It's different the video signal processing pipeline also.

For the correct calibration way, you have to calibrate using as a source your actual movie content device (Media Player/Blu-Ray Player).

If you still want to use the USB of your TV as a pattern source, you have to test to see if it matches your player.

If you have meters/software, the best thing to do is to take some measurements (Grayscale/Saturation) from your Blu-Ray player and then use the same patterns to measure them from your USB..... Check the reports to see if the measurements from the both inputs are matching closely under meter repeatability tolerance.

Check also Contrast/Brightness/Sharpness/Clipping patterns using your Player HDMI vs. USB to see if they are matching also.

If you see that the levels/measurements are matching (count the meter repeatability also), then you will be able to use your TV's USB for displaying patterns from Media Files (MP4/MKV) instead of your actual player and later copy the settings you used at USB Input to the HDMI input your player is connected.

If you use only your USB port for movie playback then you don't need to run all these tests.

My calibration disk is available in Media Files format additionally from Blu-Ray format, or you can download the AVSHD which is free (but will less measurement options).
Thank you so much for the additional information. I calibrate my PC monitor every few weeks though it is automated and should not expect my Bravia TV to be OK w/o adjustment. I tolerated the movies with a preset but can not put up with the display of still images. I should have been more clear that the Roku stick is in my Oppo that goes to my AVR (NAD T757) that goes to an HDMI port in the TV. I could reserve an HDMI port in the TV just for still images. I am not sure what the Bravia thinks it is displaying via the HDMI port. I do not have any measuring device for he TV unlike my PC LCD display I use to process photos. I did note the calibration disks available on this forum and have read briefly about Spears and Munsil disks but have no experience with any of this. I hope I can improve the display of still images w/o a big hassle though am eager to study up on this. Thank you for your assistance and any additional advice.
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post #1961 of 1971 Old 02-10-2017, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Usher99 View Post
Thank you so much for the additional information. I calibrate my PC monitor every few weeks though it is automated and should not expect my Bravia TV to be OK w/o adjustment. I tolerated the movies with a preset but can not put up with the display of still images. I should have been more clear that the Roku stick is in my Oppo that goes to my AVR (NAD T757) that goes to an HDMI port in the TV. I could reserve an HDMI port in the TV just for still images. I am not sure what the Bravia thinks it is displaying via the HDMI port. I do not have any measuring device for he TV unlike my PC LCD display I use to process photos. I did note the calibration disks available on this forum and have read briefly about Spears and Munsil disks but have no experience with any of this. I hope I can improve the display of still images w/o a big hassle though am eager to study up on this. Thank you for your assistance and any additional advice.
Hi, how do you calibrate your PC monitor (which is automated) while you don't have a measuring device? Can you give some more details about what procedure do you follow?

Also are you interested to calibrate your BRAVIA only for showing still pictures from it's internal image viewer? or from the connected to BRAVIA PC?

Ted's LightSpace CMS Calibration Disk Free Version for Free Calibration Software: LightSpace DPS / CalMAN ColorChecker / HCFR
S/W: LightSpace CMS, SpaceMan ICC, SpaceMatch DCM, CalMAN 5, CalMAN RGB, ChromaPure, ControlCAL
V/P: eeColor 3D LUT Box - P/G: DVDO AVLab TPG
Meters: JETI Specbos 1211, Klein K-10A, i1PRO2, i1PRO, SpectraCAL C6, i1D3, C5
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post #1962 of 1971 Old 02-10-2017, 02:46 PM
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Hi,
My Lenovo has the calibrator built into the keyboard and measures the screen parameters when I close the top. It is not great, but adequate for my purposes for now.

I am mostly interested improving the Bravia display from the internal image viewer. It is waaaay off now for those jpegs on phones via the roku app or via the Smugmug app.
Oddly the video though clearly off, is at least acceptable. I am probably more critical of still images especially when I know what they should look like. Thank you for thinking about this.
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post #1963 of 1971 Old 02-21-2017, 02:01 AM
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http://lightillusion.com/downloads.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by Usher99 View Post
Hi,
My Lenovo has the calibrator built into the keyboard and measures the screen parameters when I close the top. It is not great, but adequate for my purposes for now.

I am mostly interested improving the Bravia display from the internal image viewer. It is waaaay off now for those jpegs on phones via the roku app or via the Smugmug app.
Oddly the video though clearly off, is at least acceptable. I am probably more critical of still images especially when I know what they should look like. Thank you for thinking about this.
Hi, to be able to make further improvement of your Lenovo and your BRAVIA also, you have to buy a colorimeter, the best choice for value/money/performance is the X-Rite i1Display PRO.

For your Levono or any other notebook/PC Monitor calibration, since you will have i1Display PRO, you can download and use the X-Rite i1Profiler software.

i1Profiler It's direct connecting with your Monitor RGB Balance controls (when this is possible, or asks you to do this manually and guides you what adjustment you need to take to do an initial White Calibration....usually monitors have 1-point of RGB balance controls for that). Later it will autoadjust the Grayscale/Gamma by adjusting the output of the video signal that it goes to the display (VCGT). It will measure some colors also and it will generate an ICC file. To fully take advantage of the ICC correction (Gamut Correction) you need an application that can read ICC correction, software like PhotoShop (from inside PhotoShop preview window you will be able to see Gamut Colors Correction.)

To your windows or other applications that is not supporting ICC, it will correct the VCGT (Video Card Gamma Table), this means RGB Balance (Grayscale) and Gamma, your Gamut is not corrected by VCGT.

For your BRAVIA, usually the internal picture players has disabled some of the display calibration controls, if you see that you have at least 2-Point RGB Balance controls (or 10-Point if you have newer BRAVIA model) then you will be able to do grayscale calibration.

For calibration software to use with your BRAVIA, there 2 free calibration software solutions, you can download:

1) HCFR from here with support forum topic: HCFR - Open source projector and display calibration software

2) The Free DPS version of LightSpace CMS can be used also with an i1Display PRO meter, there available to read various guides on the Light Illusion website.

The specific guide for use with LightSpace DPS is here.

But there is a lot of potentially useful/interesting info in the various guides on the website also.

Support forum topic: Free LightSpace DPS - Manual Display Calibration

Since you will calibrate the BRAVIA for PC-Data Levels (because pictures or internal viewer working in PC-Data Levels also, you will need to create some patches for PC-Data Levels also, load them as pictures to the viewer and taking measurement wth HCFR.

For Contrast/Brightness adjustments you can download the Calibration Images from here: http://lightillusion.com/downloads.html

To create some images for 11-Point Grayscale and Colors use a image processing software (like PhotoShop or any freeware) to create some pictures using these RGB Triplets:

Color Gamut:

Red: 255.0.0
Green 0.255.0
Blue 0.0.255
Cyan 0.255.255
Magenta 255.0.255
Yellow 255.255.0

For 11-Point Grayscale:

0% Black -> 0.0.0
10% Gray -> 26.26.26
20% Gray -> 51.51.51
30% Gray -> 77.77.77
40% Gray -> 102.102.102
50% Gray -> 128.128.128
60% Gray -> 153.153.153
70% Gray -> 179.179.179
80% Gray -> 204.204.204
90% Gray -> 230.230.230
100% White -> 255.255.255

Once you have calibrated the image viewer, load the same images from the mobine app you are using and check if you have aggrement with results you get from measuring the images from BRAVIA image viewer.


So having i1Profiler for your Levono and HCFR/LightSpace DPS for BRAVIA, you can match the target peak luminance and gamma setting also between both displays.


For BRAVIA calibration for Movie playback using it's USB Media Player or a stand-alone blu-ray/media player you may have, you can use my calibration disk as a pattern source.

To calibrate a Display, initially you will need to start by setting Sharpness/Contrast/Brightness with my disk and then move to measurements with HCFR/LightSpace DPS with you meter. You will start using the Movie Mode (which is the best performing mode from all the other movies that each TV is coming), disable enhancement, and measure the Warm 1/2 with Grayscale patterns to see which has better RGB Balance and it's closer to D65 (The White Point that REC.709 colorspace is using). After that measure the available Gamma Options (0,-1,-2,-3) to see which one is closer to your target gamma (2.4), recheck again contrast/brightness and then move to Grayscale calibraition. If you display has 2-Point and 10/20 Point RGB Balance, then start with 2-Point and use 100% White patch to calibrate using the RGB-Gains (RGB-High) controls and then with 30% with RGB Cuts (RGB-Low) controls, recheck always both and contrast/brightness again, after that move to 10/20-Point RGB balance for further adjustments and use the 11/21-Point Grayscale Chapters. After the end of Grayscale calibration you will move to Color Gamut check to see if there required some adjustments to Color/Tint controls (since Sony don't have controls for Full CMS adjustments....6-Axis CMS).

About using HCFR, there info @ AVSForum thread: HCFR - Open source projector and display calibration software

There is a user tutorial here: The certainly not complete user guide to get to know and calibrate your TV

The settings for HCFR per measurement run if you will use my calibration disk, I have posted them here also: Ted's LightSpace CMS Calibration Disk

For improve your calibration knowledge, here are some useful links generally for calibration:

http://www.tlvexp.ca/

Video Calibration From The Inside - Volume I - 2nd Edition-1

http://chromapure.com/demos.asp

http://chromapure.com/ChromaPureManual.pdf

http://www.spectracal.com/downloads/...n%20How-To.pdf

http://calman.spectracal.com/user-guides.html

http://calman.spectracal.com/webinars.html

https://www.youtube.com/user/SpectraCal

http://lightillusion.com/why_calibrate.html

http://lightillusion.com/delta-e.html

http://lightillusion.com/manual_cali...ots_guide.html
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S/W: LightSpace CMS, SpaceMan ICC, SpaceMatch DCM, CalMAN 5, CalMAN RGB, ChromaPure, ControlCAL
V/P: eeColor 3D LUT Box - P/G: DVDO AVLab TPG
Meters: JETI Specbos 1211, Klein K-10A, i1PRO2, i1PRO, SpectraCAL C6, i1D3, C5
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Position of Meter Question-- I am new to this subject and have done a brief search but.... I am using an X1 Pro and I can place the meter either 5 inches or so from my projector screen or about two feet. The projector is a Sony 350ES; HCFR, AVS patterns. Using the short position I can use windows and from the longer distance I use full fields (same intensity for either). The results are wildly different; the up-close results are fine but in reality red appears too saturated and I can't get green close (Rec 709) but with the meter back green comes close and the images look good but the meter is further than recommended. In this case, is it more correct to have the meter further rather than closer? Why would having the meter so close to the screen skew green so much (the entire green-blue triangle side is way too far right on green and the CMS will not allow correction)? Thanks!
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post #1965 of 1971 Old 02-21-2017, 06:09 AM
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^^
I am not an expert at all but I wanted to mention that my pro calibrator set up one of his meters 26" from my screen with full field patterns. He then profiled my meter from the same distance and told me to always place my meter in the same spot...
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post #1966 of 1971 Old 02-21-2017, 06:24 AM
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laugsbach-- Thanks for that. My calibrator goes direct off the projector so as I am learning/playing with this stuff I was wondering.
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post #1967 of 1971 Old 02-25-2017, 04:15 PM
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^^
I am not an expert at all but I wanted to mention that my pro calibrator set up one of his meters 26" from my screen with full field patterns. He then profiled my meter from the same distance and told me to always place my meter in the same spot...
Hi, each meter's optics have its' own FOV (Field of View), 2 meters with the same distance from the screen, they see different area of pixels.


Ted's LightSpace CMS Calibration Disk Free Version for Free Calibration Software: LightSpace DPS / CalMAN ColorChecker / HCFR
S/W: LightSpace CMS, SpaceMan ICC, SpaceMatch DCM, CalMAN 5, CalMAN RGB, ChromaPure, ControlCAL
V/P: eeColor 3D LUT Box - P/G: DVDO AVLab TPG
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post #1968 of 1971 Old 09-27-2017, 02:10 PM
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Sometimes I feel like I understand the basics of CMS calibration and other times I feel clueless.

I just decided to recalibrate my 4K front projector's (Sony VW-350ES) color using ChromaPure 3. I had not calibrated in a couple years, but was previously able to get everything right, other than Cyan.

This time, my red saturation (in the HSL readings on ChromaPure 3) was quite low. Even turning the value of Red saturation to the max (+50) in my CMS, did not fix it. When I had it at +50, all the reds turned to neon red, and things looked terrible. I brought it back down to +15, which seemed to be about the point where I got diminishing or no returns for raising the red saturation any higher and figured that would be the best I could do. My Delta e was ~1.0 and the lower intensities (25, 50, 75) looked okay.

However, watching TV last night, I realized that I was still seeing a neon red glow in some scenes where there should be none. When I turned off color correction, it disappeared, so it's clearly my calibration that caused it.

So where I am now is, my red saturation is substantially too low according to ChromaPure, but it seems that I can't increase it in my CMS without ruining my picture.

Any idea why that might be? I can just settle for my inaccurate red, but I wish I understood what is happening.
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post #1969 of 1971 Old 09-27-2017, 04:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JeffNebraska View Post
Sometimes I feel like I understand the basics of CMS calibration and other times I feel clueless.

I just decided to recalibrate my 4K front projector's (Sony VW-350ES) color using ChromaPure 3. I had not calibrated in a couple years, but was previously able to get everything right, other than Cyan.

This time, my red saturation (in the HSL readings on ChromaPure 3) was quite low. Even turning the value of Red saturation to the max (+50) in my CMS, did not fix it. When I had it at +50, all the reds turned to neon red, and things looked terrible. I brought it back down to +15, which seemed to be about the point where I got diminishing or no returns for raising the red saturation any higher and figured that would be the best I could do. My Delta e was ~1.0 and the lower intensities (25, 50, 75) looked okay.

However, watching TV last night, I realized that I was still seeing a neon red glow in some scenes where there should be none. When I turned off color correction, it disappeared, so it's clearly my calibration that caused it.

So where I am now is, my red saturation is substantially too low according to ChromaPure, but it seems that I can't increase it in my CMS without ruining my picture.

Any idea why that might be? I can just settle for my inaccurate red, but I wish I understood what is happening.
Try calibrating to the 75% saturation, 75% Color Intensity point.

Tom Huffman
ChromaPure Software/AccuPel Video Signal Generators
ISF/THX Calibrations
Springfield, MO

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post #1970 of 1971 Old 09-27-2017, 05:21 PM
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Try calibrating to the 75% saturation, 75% Color Intensity point.
Thanks, Tom.

What menu does one use to calibrate to 75%? That is, I'm only familiar with how to get my HSL readings for the 100% saturation target.

One other random question, how far do you recommend the meter be from the screen? I have an i1Display Pro from Xrite.

Jeffnebraska
Reaching for the Next Level With a Sony 350ES and a 133" 2.35 AT Screen
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post #1971 of 1971 Old 09-27-2017, 05:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JeffNebraska View Post
Thanks, Tom.

What menu does one use to calibrate to 75%? That is, I'm only familiar with how to get my HSL readings for the 100% saturation target.

One other random question, how far do you recommend the meter be from the screen? I have an i1Display Pro from Xrite.
Selecting alternate saturatios is available in the module options of the color management module. Also, color management has a 75% point in saturations.

Not critical.

Tom Huffman
ChromaPure Software/AccuPel Video Signal Generators
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