Samsung 'S' DLP w/ a green cast, or 'push' in low light areas (shadows). - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 24 Old 10-01-2007, 05:56 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Addicted Member
 
videobruce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 14,884
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked: 104
Sorry for this long post, but I have to cover everything.

I did a search for the topic and came across three other threads with a similar problem;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ighlight=green
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ighlight=green
and this which seemed the closest;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ighlight=green

I orginally thought it wasn't a set issue, but a program issue and started this thread, but no one else reported seeing anything as this;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=912626

Which brings me back here.
After spending alot of time with this issue since it seems to be getting worse (and I'm not that anal about color perfection as many others here), this is my take on it;

1. First, it is mostly noticeable on network HD programs,
2. I rarely see it with DVDs',
3. I don't see it with analog CCTV cameras (really not a good test),
4. I see it via the internal tuner and the external DVR through a HDMI input,
5. I don't see it with a PC through the other HDMI input,
6. Looking at a grey scale through a component input from a Signal Generator, there is only a slight trace of green at the 2nd or 3rd step from black (color at '0'),
7. I do see it with typical noisey cable signals and film content, but that varies to much to mean anything.

What I have done;
1. I reduced what appears to be the equilivent of a 'green bias' (in CRT terminology) a couple of notches, but that only seemed to affect the low levels of a grey scale, not the green encoder channel.
2. The 'DLP engine' was replaced, but it seems to be either the same, or possible worse (maybe because I'm looking for it even more).
3. A full reset has been done, but that made no difference as I didn't expect it would.

I can only assume it is a low light, low level green push issue with the color decoded. Why it doesn't affect all program material I don't know. Some programs seem to be immune to it. Where it does become worse are indoor shots with floresenct lighting (office enviroments). What would be a very minor blue/green tint is major here. Hence the term 'push'.

I took some screen shots, but they didn't turn out as expected as the problem didn't really show up as expected. It's much worse that this. Notice the sideburns and eyebrows where it is usually noticeable.
NO, it's not the lighting, as this is typical with most affected programs/scenes.

This isn't confined to just Samsung.
LL
LL

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
videobruce is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 24 Old 10-03-2007, 04:38 PM
Newbie
 
HiDefDoctor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
who replaced the dlp engine? did they make any adjustments aferwards(index delay etc.)? Samsung' like to green push like that for some reason, especially if any of the important adjustments are off. When I calibrate these sets it usually goes away.
HiDefDoctor is offline  
post #3 of 24 Old 10-03-2007, 05:11 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Addicted Member
 
videobruce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 14,884
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked: 104
An authorized shop. No "adjustments" were made.
What "important" adjustments??

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
videobruce is offline  
post #4 of 24 Old 10-03-2007, 06:07 PM
Member
 
ceberle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 58
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
When the light engine is replaced on any Samsung DLP, a CCA calibration MUST be performed. This is spelled out in the service manual. Every light engine has specific default color readings that are unique, no two are alike. A properly equipped repair shop or ISF calibrator can make these measurements with a colorimeter and dial in the color on your set properly. You can't just replace the light engine without doing the CCA procedure.
ceberle is offline  
post #5 of 24 Old 10-04-2007, 04:57 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Addicted Member
 
videobruce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 14,884
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked: 104
Quote:


a CCA calibration MUST be performed

1. I doubt he even knows what that is,
2. I can't imagine any repair shops even have a colorimeter or know what it is.

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
videobruce is offline  
post #6 of 24 Old 10-04-2007, 06:58 PM
AVS Special Member
 
wnorris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,578
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
It looks like you are having the same problem as me. I have a Samsung HL-R5078 and I haven't been happy with the PQ for several months. So I decided to have Eliab at Avical calibrate it to see if it was worth keeping, or just sell it and get something else.

Well, long story short. Eliab was not able to get the grayscale to display accurately. It was just about dead on from 40% gray to 100%. However, at 20% the pattern displayed significant banding, and at 10%, the gray was more a dark green (almost a hunter green color). The black (0%) was okay. So there was a spike at the bottom end of my gray scale that could not be calibrated out. Eliab said the set was defective (there goes $400 out the window), probably a bad digital board. He claims he had saw that problem about 5 times before on DLP's.

The real world effect of this is that in dark scenes, any black that uses the 10% gray scale area displays as a dark green. Particularly, when a shadow goes across someone, there is usually an area where a dark green line appears (should be near black instead) and then goes back to black.

So bright cheery scenes look great, but anything utilizing the darker end of the spectrum still looks like crap. If you have the new DVE disc you can check what I'm talking about on the demo scene with the man and woman eating dinner (DVD or HD DVD side of the combo). Look at the man's shoulder and you will seen a very noticable green line on his shoulder, even though the scene is brightly lit. He is wearing a dark jacket, and because of lighting, part of it falls in the 10-20% range where things go green.

upon further inspection, after Eliab left, I found that looking at a gray bar sweep, there is one shade of gray around near 40% that actually is about 15% red speckles and 85% gray. I can move that shade of gray to a different part of the screen and the red speckles follow. Looking at a B&W movie, some scenes are filled with red speckles, making it unwatchable.
wnorris is offline  
post #7 of 24 Old 10-05-2007, 04:04 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Addicted Member
 
videobruce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 14,884
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked: 104
Then why with a LE change the problem appears about the same?
Regarding ceberles' post, I was under the understanding that was only if a board replacement within the LE assembly, not when the whole LE was replaced.

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
videobruce is offline  
post #8 of 24 Old 10-05-2007, 06:47 AM
AVS Special Member
 
wnorris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,578
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Then why with a LE change the problem appears about the same?
Regarding ceberles' post, I was under the understanding that was only if a board replacement within the LE assembly, not when the whole LE was replaced.

Because the light engine has nothing to do with it. The light engine only replicates the color information that is sent to it by the digital board. If the digital board is sending bad info, then the light engine will reproduce the bad info. You can put a 100 light engines in it, but if the digital board is bad, everyone of them will reproduce the same problem.

Since the same problem exists with the new light engine, it is just more evidence of a bad digital board. You need to have your repair shop replace the digital board to correct your problem. You also shouldn't have any green at the lower end of your grayscale.
wnorris is offline  
post #9 of 24 Old 10-05-2007, 06:54 AM
AVS Special Member
 
wnorris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,578
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by ceberle View Post

When the light engine is replaced on any Samsung DLP, a CCA calibration MUST be performed. This is spelled out in the service manual. Every light engine has specific default color readings that are unique, no two are alike. A properly equipped repair shop or ISF calibrator can make these measurements with a colorimeter and dial in the color on your set properly. You can't just replace the light engine without doing the CCA procedure.

The ISF techs I've talked to disagree with what you say. Basically, if you have a calibrated system and need a lamp replacement, changing the lamp will alter your calibration ever so slightly, but it will still remain very close. Next, if you need to replace the DMD, it will also have a slight effect on your calibration, but nothing incredibly severe. The pitch of the mirrors may be off slightly, your amount of light output, etc, but your color and grayscale accuracy should still be fairly close.

The light engine is simply the DMD and the associated light pipes, so replacing an entire light engine shouldn't effect your calibration an incredible amount, but it would effect it slightly (the color wheel, bulb, and digital board all remain the same).

Replacing the digital board is what destroys a calibration on a Samsung DLP. The CCA is on the digital, so changing it throws out all your CCA corrections. It throws out aperature settings. It renenables DNIE. It changes the gamma back to factory default. It alters teh color wheel timing. Etc, etc.

I think what you refer to is that a light engine has memory on it where the factory settings for that light engine are stored. In the service menu, there is an option to copy the settings from the DMD to the digital board. What happens is that most shops perform this step, and in doing so, completely overwrite the correct calibration settings you had been using, with factory defaults. However, if you wrote down all your calibration settings, you can go back and reinstate them again, which will get you back to very close to your original calibration. Or just ask the shop not to transfer the settings from the DMD to the digital board.
wnorris is offline  
post #10 of 24 Old 10-05-2007, 08:14 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Addicted Member
 
videobruce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 14,884
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked: 104
Quote:
The light engine only replicates the color information that is sent to it by the digital board.

I was thinking that board was in the same assembly, not a separate board.
I finally managed to get my handy dandy SM out, which I should of doen in the first place, and on page 3-21 of the xx87 version (I have the 5088), the first line states;
Quote:
CCA Adjustment is needed after changing a light engine or main board.

Even before I referred back to the SM, I remembered those two 'data transfer' functions; "Digital to DMD" and "DMD to Digital" in the 'Service' page.
But, those two are only if one or the other is changed out in the LE assembly, correct, not if the whole LE is changed?

Which means, as I thought;
1. The LE didn't needed to be changed in the first place (I hesitated for him to do so),
2. All the set probably needs is some 'tweaking' as this problem didn't happen all of a sudden.

Which takes me to, what and where?
LL
LL

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
videobruce is offline  
post #11 of 24 Old 10-05-2007, 08:26 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Addicted Member
 
videobruce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 14,884
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked: 104
Quote:
Replacing the digital board is what destroys a calibration on a Samsung DLP

What Samsung calls the "Assy PCB Main" or just the "Main Board" in the parts list?

I added a 2nd example to the OP.

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
videobruce is offline  
post #12 of 24 Old 10-05-2007, 09:19 AM
AVS Special Member
 
wnorris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,578
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

What Samsung calls the "Assy PCB Main" or just the "Main Board" in the parts list?

I added a 2nd example to the OP.

You have a few basic "modules" in the Samsungs. You have a power supply, an analog board RCA's, S-Video, etc.), a digital board (HDMI inputs, CCA computer, all the interlacing processors, etc.), light engine, light source (lamp and color wheel), and lense assembly. The light engine consists of the DMD and light tunnels.

The digital board is a different component that the light engine. The two are seperate and connected by cables. So replacing the light engine (DMD) does not change the digital board (Digital).

If you have had your set calibrated and you change the digital board, all the settings are lost. The new digital board goes in, you do a DMD to Digital, and the factory defaults specific to your light engine(color wheel timing, angle of mirrors on the DMD, etc.) get copied to the new digital board. Replace the DMD and you do a Digital to DMD copy, which then copies things the DMD needs that are specfic to your digital board. The two copy methods copy some of the same parameters back and forth, but don't copy all the same parameters.

Thus, if you have a calibrated set and loose a light engine, you only looses a couple of settings and it doesn't throw the calibration way off. But loose the digital board, and the enter CCA is different on the new board and your whole calibration goes out the window.

I don't have an HLS, but mine is called the ASSY PCB DIGITAL.
wnorris is offline  
post #13 of 24 Old 10-05-2007, 09:28 AM
AVS Special Member
 
wnorris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,578
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

I was thinking that board was in the same assembly, not a separate board.
I finally managed to get my handy dandy SM out, which I should of doen in the first place, and on page 3-21 of the xx87 version (I have the 5088), the first line states; Even before I referred back to the SM, I remembered those two 'data transfer' functions; "Digital to DMD" and "DMD to Digital" in the 'Service' page.
But, those two are only if one or the other is changed out in the LE assembly, correct, not if the whole LE is changed?

Which means, as I thought;
1. The LE didn't needed to be changed in the first place (I hesitated for him to do so),
2. All the set probably needs is some 'tweaking' as this problem didn't happen all of a sudden.

Which takes me to, what and where?

Well, if your set is like mine, the green is a result of the digital board not correctly reproducing gray scale. It can't be calibrated or tweaked out, because it is the result of a bad digital board. The only way to fix it is to replace the digital board.

Look at a sweep of gray bars that show 0% (black) 10% gray, 20% gray,..., through 100% (white). If they all have a greenish look, you may be able to adjust it out. If 40%, 60%, etc. look gray, but 10% and 20% look green, you can't adjust it out on the Samsung. Defective digital board.
wnorris is offline  
post #14 of 24 Old 10-05-2007, 09:47 AM
AVS Special Member
 
wnorris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,578
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Looking at your second screen shot, I think you may just need an ISF tech to calibrate your set. Looking at the girls black jacket, it will use gray scale between 0-40% to reproduce the light and shadows in that image. The shadows around the face and hair will also use some of the higher 60-80% range. Everything in that image seems to have a green tint, including lighter areas. So your green coloration may just be an improper gray scale across the board. On my set, most of her jacket would be right, but just one band of gray would appear green, so her jacket would be mostly black, with green shadow areas.

You could try adding more blue to see if it lessens the effect. If your entire gray scale is that far off, you will probably need an ISF tech to get it straightened out.
wnorris is offline  
post #15 of 24 Old 10-05-2007, 10:17 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Addicted Member
 
videobruce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 14,884
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked: 104
AFIAC, it's a Samsung issue, not a ISF tech issue.

A grey scale shows a very slight leaning towards the 2nd and/or 3rd step. But ever so slightly. That added pic, part of the green cast is the cameras timing with the color wheel.

Again, if it is the 'digital' board, why has it taken so long to get to where it is? Usually components just go bad or at least intermittent.

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
videobruce is offline  
post #16 of 24 Old 10-05-2007, 12:04 PM
AVS Special Member
 
wnorris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,578
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

AFIAC, it's a Samsung issue, not a ISF tech issue.

A grey scale shows a very slight leaning towards the 2nd and/or 3rd step. But ever so slightly. That added pic, part of the green cast is the cameras timing with the color wheel.

Again, if it is the 'digital' board, why has it taken so long to get to where it is? Usually components just go bad or at least intermittent.

I can't answer your question. If you have a problem, like a pixel that doesn't change colors, broken lines, part of the image missing, etc. I had an HLN previously and the image started to get a little flicker to it. Turns out it was a piece of tape in a light tunnel that was somehow getting moved by air from the fan and when the tape would flap, it would flap into the path of light, which would make the image darker. The result, a high frequency flicker. The light path is a bulb, color wheel, a bunch of mirrors, a DMD (more mirrors), and a lense.

A lense can't make your image green. The bulb can't make your image green. The mirrors in your light tunnels can't make the image green. That leaves the color wheel and DMD. The color wheel timing could be extremely off, which will cause colors to shift. However, it will cause all colors to shift (yellowish greens, orangy reds, etc.). Your set isn't showing that. It can't make everything have a uniform green tint. Finally, the DMD is a device with a bunch of tiny mirrors which move enough to either reflect light away from the screen, or reflect it to one of the 1 to 4 pixel positions (depending on the DMD) that each mirror represents. If there is something very wrong with timing between the color wheel and the DMD, you would get bad color representation, but again, it should effect all colors equally.

But the digital board tells the DMD and color wheel what colors to make and where to aim them, so if the digital board is skewing everything towards green (either because you have set it to do so, or it is malfunctioning), then the light engine will reproduce whatever data it is being fed.

So either your digital board parameters are setup incorrectly, or you have a bad digital board. It's one of the two, based on the images you've provided. A light engine doesn't cause the defect you are seeing, and I can't believe any knowledgable tech would come to that conclusion and have you replace the light engine.

Light engine makes the image. Digital board tells the light engine what image to make.

I bought my set in March of 2006 and it was perfect until October 2006. Then it gradually started to go green at 10%, which I lived with. Then it started having banding in 20% gray, which I lived with. Now it is adding red speckles (some type of digital noise?) to several shades of gray near 40%, and I'm not going to live with the problems anymore.
wnorris is offline  
post #17 of 24 Old 10-05-2007, 05:31 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Addicted Member
 
videobruce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 14,884
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked: 104
Quote:


So either your digital board parameters are setup incorrectly, or you have a bad digital board.

It's surely not the 1st choice. I'm waiting to herar from this guy from the repair shop.

Thanks for all the input. I can't wait for the call as I expect a fight.

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
videobruce is offline  
post #18 of 24 Old 10-09-2007, 05:18 PM
Newbie
 
Fred123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
My tech. changed my Digital module to solve a problem with the set not recognizing any inputs, and two months later changed out my LE to solve the side shadow problem. He did not calibrate for either change out. I have made some improvement to problems in low light light scenes by changing the index delay from 57 to 53. Do I do a DMD-- Digital now for the CCA ? What about Actuator gain and Focus adjustments? Fred123
Fred123 is offline  
post #19 of 24 Old 10-10-2007, 05:14 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Addicted Member
 
videobruce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 14,884
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked: 104
Can't help you there. Some ISF tech might.

Anyway, I sold the set for one that has;
1. a working TVGOS/1394/AVHDD configuration,
2. a useful PIP feature,
3. a SM that doesn't reset all your settings &
4. a video menu that you don't have to push buttons seven times just to get to the menu to adjust the video settings.

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
videobruce is offline  
post #20 of 24 Old 01-11-2008, 07:06 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Addicted Member
 
videobruce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 14,884
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked: 104
Though a older topic, the issue is still with me, now with a Mits DLP.

So, I'm wondering if this is a DLP issue as it is getting worse as it did with the Samsung.

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
videobruce is offline  
post #21 of 24 Old 01-12-2008, 06:14 PM
AVS Special Member
 
lcaillo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 3,459
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by ceberle View Post

When the light engine is replaced on any Samsung DLP, a CCA calibration MUST be performed. This is spelled out in the service manual. Every light engine has specific default color readings that are unique, no two are alike. A properly equipped repair shop or ISF calibrator can make these measurements with a colorimeter and dial in the color on your set properly. You can't just replace the light engine without doing the CCA procedure.

Actually, Samsung does not expect their shops to have this equipment at all and videobruce is correct that most would not even know what you are talking about. Samsung just sends the values that need to be entered with the light engine on these IIRC. I have only done one, but I remember having to load the values provided and adjust the color wheel index.

With the Mitsubishi, when changing the LE you just copy the data provided in the on-board eeprom. The procedure is simple and like with samsung, provided with the part. Of course, you have to pay attention to the directions that they provide. Many techs seem to think their job is just to swap the parts and never bother to read the info provided or pay attention to the training.

Yes, calibration is important...every user should be calibrated.

Need electronics repair? A great place to start looking for a shop in your area: http://www.tvrepairpros.com/
lcaillo is offline  
post #22 of 24 Old 03-06-2011, 02:24 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Damnationdoormat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,982
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
If your Samsung DLP has "Color Weakness" adjust in the user menu, try setting the "Green" option to "2". I swear it eliminates any green bias. The subtle green cast is obvious at default "0", a little more at "1", gone at "2", and then extremely increased at 3+.

I know it sounds insane, but I've compared the settings repeatedly with HD cable, DVD, Blu-ray, even VHS and Laserdisc. I have no idea what "Color Weakness" actually adjusts, but at "Green" level "2", green push is gone and nothing else looks different. This is especially obvious on black and white material. My DLP is a Samsung HLP-5085W.
Damnationdoormat is offline  
post #23 of 24 Old 02-18-2012, 08:55 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Addicted Member
 
videobruce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 14,884
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked: 104
Nice tip, too bad it's 5 years too late. At least for me.

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
videobruce is offline  
post #24 of 24 Old 01-04-2013, 02:28 PM
Newbie
 
Trebacz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I fixed my Samsung DLP's green cast in shadows by adjusting the "Index Delay" in the service menu. Mine appeared after I replaced the color wheel. The other one self destructed (http://blog.trebacz.com/2011/01/50-samsung-dlp-hl-p5063w-with-3.html). The picture was great after, but certain dark shadows would have a green cast in them. Lived with it for about a year, but fixed it using some online references and this forum thread.

1. Turn the TV off
2. Press "Mute"-> "1"-> "8"->"2" "Power" on the remote to tun the DLP on in service mode (you can do lots of bad things here -be careful)
3. Highlight the first menu option "DDP1011" using the up and down arrows - select using the left or right arrow
4. Highlight the "Index Delay" option using the up or down arrows - select using the left or right arrow
5. Now the index delay screen was visible with a red bar at the bottom (I wrote down my current value (46 in my case). I used the left and right arrows to select the minimum of red range. From where it looked Magenta (24) to where it stopped looking red (48). The service manual said to then use the mean (or average) of the two values ((48-24)/2+24=36). I moved the left and right arrows until the value read 36.
6. Turned the power off

Restarted the TV and my green cast in black shadows was gone. Awesome. Hope this helps someone else out.
Trebacz is offline  
Reply Display Calibration

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off