Originally Posted by un55d6000
im sorry to ask this so far into the thread, but i got the disc to load and i dont know how to calibrate correctly as in im not sure if im going through the process accurately. i have the patterns/user guide pdf, but i'm still confused with all the options, idk where to begin, where to go, and where to end....
would someone be so kind and patient as to briefly explain how you used it (order, which windows, patterns, etc....).
im using the second version (AVCHD burned to a dvd) on my panasonic 210..
It's confusing, and it takes quite a bit of reading to wrap one's head around what's needed. Just be patient, read through a guide or two once or twice, and take your time. Curt Palme's unfortunately named guide
is the best one I've seen, although I've read through the guide here several times.
Brief sequence of how I do it: first you need to figure out what are the proper settings for your TV or projector, BD player or video source, and AV amp if you use one. You should google that or ask in the appropriate forum as it's beyond this brief guide.
Pop the disc in, and use the 1st and 3rd patterns at "Initial Setup" (I think it's called, upper left corner of the main menu) to set your black and white points with Brightness and Contrast sliders. Set your black so that reference black marked on the screen is truly black, ie. 0-16 is indistuingashable from the background. Set white so that 235-255 is indistuingashable from the background, or
so that only 255 is, but 245-254 are levels of grey. I use the former method for improved contrast at the expense of theoretically clipping some colors. I believe that's pretty much all you can do if you don't have a calibration puck.
If you do have one, then use 80% (aka IRE) and 30% grey windows
from any "windows" menu to set both of them to grey using Brightness and Contrast settings in RGB controls for each of the three main colors. Use grey figures as reported by ColorHCFR or a commercial calibration software.
After that I set Saturation level by writing down the Y-value of 100% (aka IRE) white
window as reported by ColorHCFR, and tweaking Saturation control until 100% red
window's Y is 21% of that value.
Then I run greyscale test with 10% increments to confirm my grey levels are neutral, and see how my gamma is. If I need to tweak gamma, I do so using this guide
. It's for Epson projectors, but it should be easily adaptable to any PJ or TV.
An (advanced) step is using the same guide to set up color saturation
. Don't underestimate the impact of this step (color saturation), as that can have a big impact, and the approach in the linked guide is much better than usually used (which is to set saturation with 100% colors instead of 75%).
Finally I re-run greyscale test and saturation tests at 0%, 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% for each of the main and secondary colors to see if there's anything I need to tweak further.
It will take probably 10+ hours of reading, calibrating and tweaking to get to a final pleasing result. I can now do a full calibration in 60-90 minutes, but that's after investing tens of hours to reading the guides, poring through forums, and asking questions here. So it's quite an investment in time. And the software and especially the puck is not cheap if you don't have one. But I guarantee you will be very pleased with the results.