AVS HD 709 - Blu-ray & MP4 Calibration - Page 107 - AVS Forum
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post #3181 of 4082 Old 01-29-2012, 02:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by visca blaugrana View Post
I have tried a number of times now and i cannot get a playable disk out of it
The .264 video that you attached does not seem to be good. A basic check is to look at the track info from tsMuxeR, and your video is not showing 1920x1080p at 23.976 fps.

Quote:
can it be true that the tga file is 6mb but a 3 minute long video of the same pattern is only 362kb?
Yes, the video can be much smaller than the image files. In the attachment I included some more example files from the project. You'll see that the .264 file is much smaller than the images. I think I included all of the files that appear from start to end of the entire process. The AVCHD output from tsMuxeR is the BDMV folder, and the actual video is the .m2ts file in the BDMV/STREAM folder.

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I have tried both udm 2.5 and 2.6
UDF 2.5 should work, as long as everything else is correct.



So like I said, the problem with the Blu-ray/AVCHD not working is that the video encode doesn't seem to be good. I have included my 1080p x264 settings in the attachment. Close MeGUI and copy the .xml file to \\MeGUI_2050_x86\\allprofiles\\x264\\ and then when you run MeGUI select that for the encoder setting. I installed the latest MeGUI and updated to the latest x264, and that profile still seems to work for the video encode.

I would suggest just doing one video to start out with. That way you know it works before you do the other 27. I tested the example files and they seem to work, but I think the problem was just with your video encode. If you use the attached .xml file for the video encode settings I think you may be good to go.

 

Attach.zip 33.1015625k . file
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File Type: zip Attach.zip (33.1 KB, 28 views)
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post #3182 of 4082 Old 01-30-2012, 12:54 PM
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thank you for the xml works perfect.

I have tried to combine the 264 files and create a avshd movie.

1: would you create individual 264 files for each pattern, if so would you combine them using rsmuxer

2: would you combine all the files in MeGUI via a .avs file if so could you give me an example on how to combine 2 or 3 files?

I tried the followin without any luck
-------------------------------------------
clip1 = RawSource ("C:\\Users\\home\\Desktop\\AMPliu\\25blu.yuv",1920,1080,"UYVY")
clip1 = Loop(clip1,4320)

clip2 = RawSource ("C:\\Users\\home\\Desktop\\AMPliu\\25cya.yuv",1920,1080,"UYVY")
clip2 = Loop(clip1,4320)

clip3 = RawSource ("C:\\Users\\home\\Desktop\\AMPliu\\25gre.yuv",1920,1080,"UYVY")
clip3 = Loop(clip1,4320)

clip4 = RawSource ("C:\\Users\\home\\Desktop\\AMPliu\\25mag.yuv",1920,1080,"UYVY")
clip4 = Loop(clip1,4320)

clip5 = RawSource ("C:\\Users\\home\\Desktop\\AMPliu\\25red.yuv",1920,1080,"UYVY")
clip5 = Loop(clip1,4320)

clip6 = RawSource ("C:\\Users\\home\\Desktop\\AMPliu\\25whi.yuv",1920,1080,"UYVY")
clip6 = Loop(clip1,4320)

clip7 = RawSource ("C:\\Users\\home\\Desktop\\AMPliu\\25yel.yuv",1920,1080,"UYVY")
clip7 = Loop(clip1,4320)

clip8 = clip1+clip2+clip3+clip4+clip5+clip6+clip7
clip8 = AssumeFPS(clip1,23.976)
clip8 = ConvertToYV12(clip8)

return clip8
-------------------------------------------


If I create individual 264 files and join them i rsmuxer it create a workable file but the patterns are not split by chapters but it see each pattern as a different video angle.

thank you for your help so far
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post #3183 of 4082 Old 01-30-2012, 03:04 PM
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I have an interesting problem.

I calibrated my tv on a ps3 and avchd version, Disney WOW and DVE BR, they all match.

When I calibrate my tv on a xbox360 and mp4 version and DVE DVD they do not match. DVE DVD matches the ps3 setting, yet the mp4 is alot brighter. In black clipping, I can see all bars.

PS3 is set to RGB Limited, SuperWhite On
Xbox is set to Reference Level Standard, 709 color standard. NOT AUTO

Both are routed through Onkyo receiver to Panasonic plasma via HDMI

One note, if I set the xbox to Refence Level Intermediate, it almost matches but not exactly.

Thanks for any help.
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post #3184 of 4082 Old 01-30-2012, 04:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by visca blaugrana View Post

1: would you create individual 264 files for each pattern, if so would you combine them using rsmuxer

If you want to use tsMuxeR for authoring to Blu-ray/AVCHD, then I would suggest using a single .avs file to put all the patterns in one video. Personally I had some issues when trying to use tsMuxeR with more than one video, so that's why I suggest to stick to one video with the program.

If you want to plan on using MultiAVCHD for authoring to Blu-ray/AVCHD, the program is more complex, and it probably doesn't matter if you make one or multiple videos.

Quote:
2: would you combine all the files in MeGUI via a .avs file if so could you give me an example on how to combine 2 or 3 files?

You have the right idea, but there are few errors I noticed.

Quote:
clip2 = Loop(clip1,4320)

Clip2 to Clip7 incorrectly list Clip1 next to the frame count (4320). Here is the correction for clip2:
clip2 = Loop(clip2,4320)

Do the same for clip2 to clip7:
clip# = Loop(clip#,4320)


Quote:
clip8 = AssumeFPS(clip1,23.976)

Again in the above portion the clip1 item needs to be changed:
clip8 = AssumeFPS(clip8,23.976)


If you make these changes you should be good to go. What I would do to test it is to change the frame count for each pattern to be just a few seconds. For example if you change the 4320 numbers to 120 then each pattern will only be 5 seconds. That way your encode time is quick and you can check to make sure it works before encoding the final clip.

Quote:
If I create individual 264 files and join them i rsmuxer it create a workable file but the patterns are not split by chapters but it see each pattern as a different video angle.

I didn't realize it did that. Like I said, if I wanted to author with tsMuxeR I would use one video clip and then set chapters using the Blu-ray tab in tsMuxeR.

Quote:
thank you for your help so far

No problem. Honestly when I started this I thought more people would want to make their own patterns or add to it, but that didn't really turn out to be the case.
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post #3185 of 4082 Old 01-30-2012, 04:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racerx2k1 View Post

Xbox is set to Reference Level Standard, 709 color standard. NOT AUTO

I'd guess that what you're describing is due to how the Xbox operates with your chosen settings. I don't use mine for video, so I just set it to expanded and RGB. Does it function the same if you use standard and RGB?

This sort of thing can be a problem with computers. Some of the early ATI drivers for my computer's video card would play MP4 and Mpeg-2 at different levels. One would expand to computer levels while the other would be reference video levels. Anyway, that seems to be the sort of thing you were describing.
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post #3186 of 4082 Old 01-30-2012, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alluringreality View Post

I'd guess that what you're describing is due to how the Xbox operates with your chosen settings. I don't use mine for video, so I just set it to expanded and RGB. Does it function the same if you use standard and RGB?

This sort of thing can be a problem with computers. Some of the early ATI drivers for my computer's video card would play MP4 and Mpeg-2 at different levels. One would expand to computer levels while the other would be reference video levels. Anyway, that seems to be the sort of thing you were describing.

I don't use the xbox for video either, I just want that input calibrated correctly. This behavior only started after the latest xbox update. Before the update, it did match.

I tried the RGB and expanded, it crushed the black to where I could not see any bars at the same brightness level.

I've tried every combination between reference level and color space, it only changes when the reference level is changed. So my guess is that it is going into RGB mode when the mp4 disc is being played.

Here is an article I found describing the problem
http://venturebeat.com/2012/01/19/mi...ox-360-update/

And here

http://forums.xbox.com/xbox_forums/g.../t/157238.aspx

And here

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post21417500
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post #3187 of 4082 Old 01-31-2012, 02:38 AM
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Hi,

I would like to thank everyone involved in the development of the AVS calibration disc for providing this great tool. It is complete, it is intuitive, and it is freeware. Pure awesome. THANK you very much!
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post #3188 of 4082 Old 01-31-2012, 04:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racerx2k1 View Post

I don't use the xbox for video either, I just want that input calibrated correctly. This behavior only started after the latest xbox update. Before the update, it did match.

I read on one of the gaming sites this is a known issue with the latest XBox FW update and a fix is in the works.
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post #3189 of 4082 Old 02-01-2012, 11:43 AM
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@alluringreality

I have now completed the making of the iso file and it plays fine on my Philips BDP9500.

All.

I am at the moment without a meter, so I was hoping someone could try to download the iso file and burn it and test the 75 & 100% compared with the one on the avsHD disk, just to know if they are right
http://www.2shared.com/file/-EcaaQ3F/AmpLiu.html

thank you
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post #3190 of 4082 Old 02-01-2012, 04:04 PM
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Great work on this project and much appreciated.

Question. I've made the disc and run it thru my PS3, and the picture quality seems to be much improved. But I am having issues trying to calibrate my htpc. I I am not getting the full range for either contrast or brightness settings.
I am running thru wmc using the latest Intel drivers and ffdshow, is there some setting I should be setting to get the full output?
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post #3191 of 4082 Old 02-01-2012, 05:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by visca blaugrana View Post
test the 75 & 100% compared with the one on the avsHD disk, just to know if they are right
http://www.2shared.com/file/-EcaaQ3F/AmpLiu.html
Your method will work as a quick check of your process.

The way we do it is to decode back to images. I think tsMuxeR can demux to the elementary video stream, and then I just follow the text instructions from the attachment. The process is exactly as explained by dr1394 in the first few pages of this thread. Generally though when I do this I use a short test encode, to speed up the process.

Another quick check would be to play the m2ts video on a computer and use color cop, or screen print and paste into a paint program, to check RGB values. Since I wasn't going to actually decode that long of a video back to images, I set my ATI card to 16-235 playback with levels wizard and pulled RGB values. The brightest red, green, and blue were what I would expect for 100%. The next darkest green also looked good for 75%. So on a quick check, the encode looks fine.

 

Check-levels.zip 252.2998046875k . file
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File Type: zip Check-levels.zip (252.3 KB, 18 views)
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post #3192 of 4082 Old 02-01-2012, 05:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arialis View Post

I am having issues trying to calibrate my htpc. I I am not getting the full range for either contrast or brightness settings.

Computers typically expand video levels to computer levels by default. This modification eliminates the 1-15 and 236-254 video information. From a practical standpoint it's somewhat reasonable, but a more ideal recommendation would be to avoid modifying the signal as much as possible before it gets to the display. There will be opinions on both sides, but generally the opinion of this forum is to avoid video expansion if possible. How much you may be able to choose somewhat depends on your video card and drivers. Some of the posts from http://www.upsilonsoftware.com/blog.html are a few years old, but either there or the home theater computers area would be where I would recommend looking for more information related to your computer hardware. It's not the end of the world if you can only display the information between reference black and white, and honestly it's doubtful how many people could actually spot the differences in blind tests.
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post #3193 of 4082 Old 02-01-2012, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alluringreality View Post


Computers typically expand video levels to computer levels by default. This modification eliminates the 1-15 and 236-254 video information. From a practical standpoint it's somewhat reasonable, but a more ideal recommendation would be to avoid modifying the signal as much as possible before it gets to the display. There will be opinions on both sides, but generally the opinion of this forum is to avoid video expansion if possible. How much you may be able to choose somewhat depends on your video card and drivers. Some of the posts from http://www.upsilonsoftware.com/blog.html are a few years old, but either there or the home theater computers area would be where I would recommend looking for more information related to your computer hardware. It's not the end of the world if you can only display the information between reference black and white, and honestly it's doubtful how many people could actually spot the differences in blind tests.

Thank you for the quick response..
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post #3194 of 4082 Old 02-02-2012, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alluringreality View Post


The way we do it is to decode back to images. I think tsMuxeR can demux to the elementary video stream, and then I just follow the text instructions from the attachment. The process is exactly as explained by dr1394 in the first few pages of this thread. Generally though when I do this I use a short test encode, to speed up the process.

thank you I will have a look over the weekend

Quote:
Originally Posted by alluringreality View Post

Another quick check would be to play the m2ts video on a computer and use color cop, or screen print and paste into a paint program, to check RGB values. Since I wasn't going to actually decode that long of a video back to images, I set my ATI card to 16-235 playback with levels wizard and pulled RGB values. The brightest red, green, and blue were what I would expect for 100%. The next darkest green also looked good for 75%. So on a quick check, the encode looks fine.

thanks for the check I really appreciate your help.

just a quick question:

is the reason to use 16-235 and not 0-255 that its a HD709 standard or what is the reason?
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post #3195 of 4082 Old 02-02-2012, 07:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by visca blaugrana View Post

is the reason to use 16-235 and not 0-255 that its a HD709 standard or what is the reason?

Yeah, it's defined for the encode/decode. I think some of the programs from dr1394 are written to allow 0-255 RGB images, but typical video uses the 16-235 range. Since we wanted to include some above white and below black patterns, the general process is setup to follow more along the lines of the video range, rather than putting white at 255 in the images and remapping to 235 in the video.
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post #3196 of 4082 Old 02-05-2012, 05:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alluringreality View Post

Your method will work as a quick check of your process.

The way we do it is to decode back to images. I think tsMuxeR can demux to the elementary video stream, and then I just follow the text instructions from the attachment. The process is exactly as explained by dr1394 in the first few pages of this thread. Generally though when I do this I use a short test encode, to speed up the process.

Another quick check would be to play the m2ts video on a computer and use color cop, or screen print and paste into a paint program, to check RGB values. Since I wasn't going to actually decode that long of a video back to images, I set my ATI card to 16-235 playback with levels wizard and pulled RGB values. The brightest red, green, and blue were what I would expect for 100%. The next darkest green also looked good for 75%. So on a quick check, the encode looks fine.

alluringreality, thank you for your help I have now reversed the video strip to a tga file and the RGB values was all fine.

again thank you

cant wait to get chromapure so i can use them. that sounded so geeky and sad lol
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post #3197 of 4082 Old 02-05-2012, 05:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by visca blaugrana View Post

Is the reason to use 16-235 and not 0-255 that its a HD709 standard or what is the reason?

It's all about creating above white and below black patterns. If you'd like to work in 0-255 RGB space, here's the appropriate rgb to yuv conversion program that you can use.

http://www.w6rz.net/rgb255touyvy.zip

Ron

HD MPEG-2 Test Patterns http://www.w6rz.net
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post #3198 of 4082 Old 02-05-2012, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr1394 View Post

It's all about creating above white and below black patterns. If you'd like to work in 0-255 RGB space, here's the appropriate rgb to yuv conversion program that you can use.

http://www.w6rz.net/rgb255touyvy.zip

Ron

dr1394

thank you, I am very happy working with 16 - 235, was just wondering what the reason behind it was, I however would like to try the 0 - 255 RGB space, i was wondering if you have the yuvtorgb tool but for the 0 - 255 RGB space
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post #3199 of 4082 Old 02-05-2012, 07:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by visca blaugrana View Post

yuvtorgb tool but for the 0 - 255 RGB space

Remove the "-v" option from the batch file or command line.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post12445522
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post #3200 of 4082 Old 02-10-2012, 06:35 AM
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You guys are going to hate me for such a noob question here, but this thread is a lot of information for me to comprehend. I have the lg lw5600 and it has the filter modes in the tv to use. I have set all of my basic settings of contrast, brightness, and color with no problems. I end up with the following:

Contrast - 90
Brightness - 50
Color - 54
Tint - Green +1

That said, the blue filter shows very little flashing in the basic patterns and I am happy with that.

My question is this ( and like I said, probably covered already in this massive thread, sorry ) If I use the first pattern on Misc. Patterns, it is the flashing colors with all of the primary and secondary colors showing, is there a way without a meter to dial that screen in more using the filters on the TV?

The Red filter shows the Yellow squares being really dark red and to a close degree the Magenta also dark red, but the Red itself is only slightly off. Same is shown with the Green and blue filters. Primary colors are fairly good, but secondaries are all dark. No idea if that means colors are to low or too high or if the tint is too low or too high. My TV has all available adjustments with 2 point, 10 point and CMS. I have played around a little with the CMS, adjusting primary and secondary colors and tints, but that isn't doing much on the flashing screen.

My question then is, should I be able to use these filters to pretty much eliminate the flashing secondary colors by eye. I am willing to spend some time trying, I just don't know what dark red in the yellow boxes would mean and where to start with the adjustments from that point. I am not looking for exact results.. just kind of obsessive to a point of trying. I have a Samsung plasma already calibrated by ChadB in the past and know how good perfect is, just want to get close enough on this one.

Sorry for the long post that has probably been covered many times in more technical terms than I can comprehend. And also thank you for making the AVSHD disk available to all of us.

Ed

PSN - eghill1125
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post #3201 of 4082 Old 02-10-2012, 10:27 AM
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When using the black clipping pattern to set Brightness aka Black Level , do you clip 16 and then 17 still visible and flashing or clip 16 and 17 "barely" visible and flashing? Barely visible meaning one click down and it clips or looks like 16, black and one click up and 17 becomes too bright and obvious or 16 becomes visible. I set it too where i no longer see 16 but I do see the outline of the stripe my set is showing a false outline but no pixel activity/flashing in the middle and 17 flashing and clearly visible. What's your guy's take?
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post #3202 of 4082 Old 02-10-2012, 10:31 AM
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my take is turn down your sharpness.

if you're seeing the *outline* of a bar that is otherwise black, there's some edge enhancement going on.

the answer to your real question is, you're basically using the right method either way. you should see 17 barely, and you should not see 16 at all.
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post #3203 of 4082 Old 02-10-2012, 03:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hungro View Post

What's your guy's take?

I'd probably tend to choose one click too low, since most of the commercial patterns tend to go in that direction.
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post #3204 of 4082 Old 02-10-2012, 04:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eghill1125 View Post

the flashing colors with all of the primary and secondary colors showing, is there a way without a meter to dial that screen in more using the filters on the TV?

I am not familiar with your TV in order to discuss the display's tendencies. I'm also not sure if there has been much testing to see if doing such a thing generally comes closer to a calibrated display. Basically to test if the adjustment comes closer to or farther from the intended calibration you would probably want to measure the display, and in that case you might as well just follow standard practices to calibrate the display. Basically my point is that what you're talking about is not standard practice, and the displays I've worked with the most do not have adequate controls to minimize the flashing for each bar, so personally I don't have any relevant experience to really comment.
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post #3205 of 4082 Old 02-13-2012, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alluringreality View Post

I'd probably tend to choose one click too low, since most of the commercial patterns tend to go in that direction.

I settled on a brightness setting of 56 which doesn't show any false outline of the black bar 16 completely invisible the video processing in my tv show's a false outline which appears like it's sixteen but it's not. Doug Blackburn suggested look for the setting that makes the false outline disappear first. If I go one click lower then I get the false outline but 17 is clipped. I used a measurement method with a meter before to set the brightness , measure Y then take 0.0065 to get gamma at 2.2 , Chad B said this method often crushes blacks, DVE gave me a brightness setting lower then AVS 709.
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post #3206 of 4082 Old 02-13-2012, 05:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hungro View Post

I used a measurement method with a meter before to set the brightness , measure Y then take 0.0065 to get gamma at 2.2 , Chad B said this method often crushes blacks

I agree that the method of trying to set black level based on a theoretical gamma is at best questionable on a digital display, especially if you don't check to see how much information you are cutting off. It's possible that some displays might cut off even 4% using this method, and I doubt anyone is going to seriously suggest that 4% gray shouldn't be brighter than black.

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DVE gave me a brightness setting lower then AVS 709.

The first level above black on DVE is higher than 17, so the DVE audio instructions can allow for clipping a few additional levels above black.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post20767638
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post #3207 of 4082 Old 02-16-2012, 07:03 AM
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Hi everyone!
I have just run the calibrating file MP4-2c on my computer in a virtual drive. I do not have any blue ray device and I do not watch so much films from the computer vial my HDTV.
Should I do the calibration using avs hd 709 if I only watch satellite tv with two receivers. I mean I can connect the TV - LG37LK450 to my computer but does that make sense?
Thanks in advance!
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post #3208 of 4082 Old 02-16-2012, 02:04 PM
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I am not satisfied with my tv's picture over various inputs. I am wanting to run this calibration and see if i get better results b4 I order disney wow online. The dilemma is I don't have a Bluray burner so am looking for alternatives to running on my tv. I have

UND46D7000
Fat PS3
360
"Gaming" PC

If i burn this to a normal DVD will my calibration be off. Can i play these files of a hard drive or thumb drive through either of the 2 consoles or the TV itself since it supports HD playback through usb. Will these files play off my computer and if so should I run the computer directly to the tv or through the receiver since that's where everything else is being routed (don't use PC on this tv just want to calibrate properly for consoles).

Any input as to the best course of action for calibrating would be appreciated.
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post #3209 of 4082 Old 02-16-2012, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crizume View Post

I am not satisfied with my tv's picture over various inputs. I am wanting to run this calibration and see if i get better results b4 I order disney wow online. The dilemma is I don't have a Bluray burner so am looking for alternatives to running on my tv. I have

UND46D7000
Fat PS3
360
"Gaming" PC

If i burn this to a normal DVD will my calibration be off. Can i play these files of a hard drive or thumb drive through either of the 2 consoles or the TV itself since it supports HD playback through usb. Will these files play off my computer and if so should I run the computer directly to the tv or through the receiver since that's where everything else is being routed (don't use PC on this tv just want to calibrate properly for consoles).

Any input as to the best course of action for calibrating would be appreciated.

A DVD is fine. Some players will read the AVCHD version from USB.

The standard advice is to calibrate using the source you will be using for normal playback.

-Bill
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post #3210 of 4082 Old 02-16-2012, 03:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crizume View Post

(don't use PC on this tv just want to calibrate properly for consoles).

The PS3 will play the AVCHD and the Xbox will play the MP4 video after an update.
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