AVS HD 709 - Blu-ray & MP4 Calibration - Page 150 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4471 of 4498 Old 05-08-2017, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Jive Turkey View Post
I need the full field 0 and 100%. I've found plenty of non-full field (amplitude box framed by black background) easy enough. I found a full field 100%, but a full field 0% has been a bit elusive for me. I think I found a way to get that, but it was a bit hidden for me in colorhcfr, so I thought someone might know where I can easily find the 0%, that I might have missed.
As mentioned in my previous post, the Contrast sections of both ChromaPure and ColorHCFR patterns contains both 0% and 100% full field.

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post #4472 of 4498 Old 05-08-2017, 12:50 PM
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As mentioned in my previous post, the Contrast sections of both ChromaPure and ColorHCFR patterns contains both 0% and 100% full field.
I found it from your advice.

It appears I have to hit the "popup menu" button on my remote to get a drop down menu to select 0 and 100% IRE fields. Found that by trial and error.

Thanks!

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post #4473 of 4498 Old 05-21-2017, 08:11 AM
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No pro here, but familiar, and not hesitant to ask dumb questions.

For setting up my UHD HDR profile on my projector, I can still use AVS-709 burned to DVD-R to set brightness and contrast, right? Just set it to 16-235 range; no practical reason to run BTB and WTW?

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post #4474 of 4498 Old 06-06-2017, 02:14 PM
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used for 4k?

My question is similar to the one above as well. Can this calibration tool burned to a dvd be used to help calibrate a 4k tv, or is it only for hdtv's?

Thanks
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post #4475 of 4498 Old 06-06-2017, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by agtjamesb007 View Post
My question is similar to the one above as well. Can this calibration tool burned to a dvd be used to help calibrate a 4k tv, or is it only for hdtv's?

Thanks
Hi, the resolution is not related with calibration, the colorspace the content you want to watch matters only.

So for SDR (Blu-Ray) you aim for REC.709 colorspace, if you have 720p/1080p/2160p display, for this job you can use AVSHD.

For HDR, you can't use it, you need HDR patterns and aim for REC.2020 colorspace for calibration.
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post #4476 of 4498 Old 06-07-2017, 10:35 AM
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Can be used this tool to check if the 4k tv overscan the image? or maybe we need a specific tool for 4k tv?
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post #4477 of 4498 Old 06-15-2017, 09:21 AM
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Hi;
I downloaded AVS HD and burned it successfully to a DVD disc.

My TV is a SEIKI SE32HD07UK 32" LED TV.
Specs for TV are:

HD Ready 720p
Picture quality: 50 Hz

Finding myself overwhelmed as to how to optimally calibrate my TV/PS4, and very confused as to what benchmarks, settings to calibrate etc. Can anyone help, please?
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post #4478 of 4498 Old 06-15-2017, 09:34 AM
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Without a light meter and special software, all you can do with the AVS HD709 disk is adjust the basics: color, aspect, sharpness, brightness, and contrast. That may be all you need. Just follow the pattern recommendations on the disk. If memory serves me correctly, there's a little tutorial on the disk as well.
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post #4479 of 4498 Old 06-15-2017, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post
Without a light meter and special software, all you can do with the AVS HD709 disk is adjust the basics: color, aspect, sharpness, brightness, and contrast. That may be all you need. Just follow the pattern recommendations on the disk. If memory serves me correctly, there's a little tutorial on the disk as well.
It doesnt seem to work, I do not seem to be able to alter variables. It is like a DVD movie, I can skip chapters, fast forward, rewind etc; but, in terms of actually altering values....no, I seem unable to :\
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post #4480 of 4498 Old 06-15-2017, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by humblemetsuke View Post
It doesnt seem to work, I do not seem to be able to alter variables. It is like a DVD movie, I can skip chapters, fast forward, rewind etc; but, in terms of actually altering values....no, I seem unable to :\
The DVD itself doesn't do anything. It just displays patterns etc that you adjust what ever user controls are available to you. You may have to pause the DVD, go back to your tv's settings menu, make a change, and then go back to the DVD to see if the change made a difference. Some tv's offer better consumer controls than others. You should be able adjust the basics at least.
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post #4481 of 4498 Old 06-15-2017, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post
The DVD itself doesn't do anything. It just displays patterns etc that you adjust what ever user controls are available to you. You may have to pause the DVD, go back to your tv's settings menu, make a change, and then go back to the DVD to see if the change made a difference. Some tv's offer better consumer controls than others. You should be able adjust the basics at least.
Oh god; I get you now. What an idiot!

Thank you.
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post #4482 of 4498 Old 06-15-2017, 11:32 AM
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Oh god; I get you now. What an idiot!

Thank you.
Not to worry. A lot of old time posters here will never admit to some of the things they did during the learning process
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post #4483 of 4498 Old 06-15-2017, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by humblemetsuke View Post
Oh god; I get you now. What an idiot!

Thank you.
You're not the only one.

I've read about others who thought playing a calibration disk on your player would calibrate your TV.

Given the self calibration nature of audio with Audyssey, its not that much of a stretch.

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post #4484 of 4498 Old 06-15-2017, 04:24 PM
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I get you now.
Hi, to improve your calibration knowledge, here are some useful links generally for calibration:

http://www.tlvexp.ca/

Video Calibration From The Inside - Volume I - 2nd Edition-1

http://chromapure.com/demos.asp

http://chromapure.com/ChromaPureManual.pdf

http://www.spectracal.com/downloads/...n%20How-To.pdf

http://calman.spectracal.com/user-guides.html

http://calman.spectracal.com/webinars.html

https://www.youtube.com/user/SpectraCal

http://lightillusion.com/why_calibrate.html

http://lightillusion.com/delta-e.html

http://lightillusion.com/manual_cali...ots_guide.html
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V/P: eeColor 3D LUT Box - P/G: DVDO AVLab TPG
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post #4485 of 4498 Old 06-17-2017, 10:28 AM
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Hi guys,

Quick questions: I m calibrating my black levels on my Samsung F6400 display that is connected directly to my Xbox One.

I get can 2-25 flash on the black clipping pattern, is this correct or do I need to to change my brightness more down to get only 17-25 flash?
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post #4486 of 4498 Old 06-17-2017, 12:54 PM
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AVS HD 709 is video, so you want only 17-25 to flash.
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post #4487 of 4498 Old 06-22-2017, 11:17 AM
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My understanding is you should always turn off dynamic contrast before adjusting color or tint using s blue filter? Why is that? if I want to use dynamic contrast it seems I should calibrate with dynamic contrast enabled as if I calibrate with dynamic contrast off the color saturation and tint saturation is off again once dynamic contrast is enabled.
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post #4488 of 4498 Old 06-22-2017, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by proudx View Post
My understanding is you should always turn off dynamic contrast before adjusting color or tint using s blue filter? Why is that? if I want to use dynamic contrast it seems I should calibrate with dynamic contrast enabled as if I calibrate with dynamic contrast off the color saturation and tint saturation is off again once dynamic contrast is enabled.
Hi, Dynamic Contrast should always be off when you want accurate picture or you want to calibrate or view calibrated picture. Dynamic modes are boosting the saturation of colors and change gamma...to make them more saturated or make the dark shades even blacker or bright shades ever brighter; so they altering the original image to look more impressive and more inaccurate. A lot of users not familiar with calibration or the ones who haven't seen how a calibrated picture looks like they are impressed with dynamic modes and use them a lot.

Using Blue Filter is not working anymore unless you have an old CRT display.

CMS Calibration is not possible by only looking build in filters or by any type of $1 filter that is coming with disks or by photographic use quality and more expensive ones (Rosco E-Colour Tokyo Blue #071 or Lee Sheet Colour Filter #071 Tokyo or Kodak Deep Blue Tricolor #47B).

Blue Filter Glasses are useless for displays other than CRT.

Blue filters used before 10-15 years mainly for CRT Displays where only Color/Tint controls were available for CMS; the calibration software/meter access were so limited and so expensive.....now in 2015 you can get an amazing for the performance colorimeter like X-Rite's i1Display PRO and by using an open source software for free (like HCFR), there is no reason to use any blue filter anymore.

Now most of the displays are coming with 6-Axis CMS controls.

Blue filters (on CRT) can work where for example the Red Primary is fully saturated and have no blue or green...blue primary has no green or red etc....But a fully saturated Primary needs to have the other 2 primaries added to be able to de-saturated it to it's target....so viewing thru the blue filter you will have light coming from all three primaries and this will make it's blue filter purpose of matching the luminance method no longer work.

When you will buy a colorimeter and use a software to perform a gamut calibration, when you will have calibrated the display full CMS, look throu the blue filter....you will see that it will look so bad. Blue filters designed to work for display that their primaries are tracking REC.709, now all modern displays have wider gamut coverage from REC.709, this is another one reason that Blue Filter is not worth it to use nowadays.

BTW I have posted there: What is the best calibration disc??? what you can do and what you can't do with only a calibration disk...any calibration disk not specific Ted's Disk.

The only think you can do with a color clipping pattern is to check (reduce color or contrast) and prevent color clipping of primary/secondary color luminance levels.

If you decide to buy a meter, the X-Rite i1Display PRO colorimeter is the best choice, for it's value/price, and get prepared to spend some time to get more deeper about how calibration stuff work.

There free calibration software solutions, you can download:

1) HCFR from here with support forum topic: HCFR - Open source projector and display calibration software

2) The Free DPS version of LightSpace CMS can be used also with an i1Display PRO meter, there available to read various guides on the Light Illusion website.

The specific guide for use with LightSpace DPS is here.

But there is a lot of potentially useful/interesting info in the various guides on the website also.

Support forum topic: Free LightSpace DPS - Manual Display Calibration

Ted's LightSpace CMS Calibration Disk Free Version for Free Calibration Software: LightSpace DPS / CalMAN ColorChecker / HCFR
S/W: LightSpace CMS, SpaceMan ICC, SpaceMatch DCM, CalMAN 5, CalMAN RGB, ChromaPure, ControlCAL
V/P: eeColor 3D LUT Box - P/G: DVDO AVLab TPG
Meters: JETI Specbos 1211, Klein K-10A, i1PRO2, i1PRO, SpectraCAL C6, i1D3, C5
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post #4489 of 4498 Old 06-22-2017, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by proudx View Post
My understanding is you should always turn off dynamic contrast before adjusting color or tint using s blue filter? Why is that? if I want to use dynamic contrast it seems I should calibrate with dynamic contrast enabled as if I calibrate with dynamic contrast off the color saturation and tint saturation is off again once dynamic contrast is enabled.
Hi, Dynamic Contrast should always be off when you want accurate picture or you want to calibrate or view calibrated picture. Dynamic modes are boosting the saturation of colors and change gamma...to make them more saturated or make the dark shades even blacker or bright shades ever brighter; so they altering the original image to look more impressive and more inaccurate. A lot of users not familiar with calibration or the ones who haven't seen how a calibrated picture looks like they are impressed with dynamic modes and use them a lot.

Using Blue Filter is not working anymore unless you have an old CRT display.

CMS Calibration is not possible by only looking build in filters or by any type of $1 filter that is coming with disks or by photographic use quality and more expensive ones (Rosco E-Colour Tokyo Blue #071 or Lee Sheet Colour Filter #071 Tokyo or Kodak Deep Blue Tricolor #47B).

Blue Filter Glasses are useless for displays other than CRT.

Blue filters used before 10-15 years mainly for CRT Displays where only Color/Tint controls were available for CMS; the calibration software/meter access were so limited and so expensive.....now in 2015 you can get an amazing for the performance colorimeter like X-Rite's i1Display PRO and by using an open source software for free (like HCFR), there is no reason to use any blue filter anymore.

Now most of the displays are coming with 6-Axis CMS controls.

Blue filters (on CRT) can work where for example the Red Primary is fully saturated and have no blue or green...blue primary has no green or red etc....But a fully saturated Primary needs to have the other 2 primaries added to be able to de-saturated it to it's target....so viewing thru the blue filter you will have light coming from all three primaries and this will make it's blue filter purpose of matching the luminance method no longer work.

When you will buy a colorimeter and use a software to perform a gamut calibration, when you will have calibrated the display full CMS, look throu the blue filter....you will see that it will look so bad. Blue filters designed to work for display that their primaries are tracking REC.709, now all modern displays have wider gamut coverage from REC.709, this is another one reason that Blue Filter is not worth it to use nowadays.

BTW I have posted there: What is the best calibration disc??? what you can do and what you can't do with only a calibration disk...any calibration disk not specific Ted's Disk.

The only think you can do with a color clipping pattern is to check (reduce color or contrast) and prevent color clipping of primary/secondary color luminance levels.

If you decide to buy a meter, the X-Rite i1Display PRO colorimeter is the best choice, for it's value/price, and get prepared to spend some time to get more deeper about how calibration stuff work.

There free calibration software solutions, you can download:

1) HCFR from here with support forum topic: HCFR - Open source projector and display calibration software

2) The Free DPS version of LightSpace CMS can be used also with an i1Display PRO meter, there available to read various guides on the Light Illusion website.

The specific guide for use with LightSpace DPS is here.

But there is a lot of potentially useful/interesting info in the various guides on the website also.

Support forum topic: Free LightSpace DPS - Manual Display Calibration
Wow what an informative post. Thank you very much. What do I do when I have a Samsung h series tv that has no cms controls or ability to disable dynamic contrast? Can Service menu work?

I also have another Samsung that has a blue only rgb mode that I engaged to calibrate the color controls and tint using flashing plude patter. Is this method more accurate than using the blue filter?

Last edited by proudx; 06-22-2017 at 04:27 PM.
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post #4490 of 4498 Old 06-22-2017, 04:27 PM
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Wow what an informative post. Thank you very much. What do I do when I have a Samsung h series tv that has no cms controls or ability to disable dynamic contrast? Can Service menu work?

I also have another Samsung that has a blue only rgb mode that I engaged to calibrate the red blue and green. Is this method more accurate than using the blue filter?
Hi, use movie mode, there you will be able to disable it.

For CMS calibration you need software/meter, can't do it by looking any reference pattern or any mode or any filter.

Ted's LightSpace CMS Calibration Disk Free Version for Free Calibration Software: LightSpace DPS / CalMAN ColorChecker / HCFR
S/W: LightSpace CMS, SpaceMan ICC, SpaceMatch DCM, CalMAN 5, CalMAN RGB, ChromaPure, ControlCAL
V/P: eeColor 3D LUT Box - P/G: DVDO AVLab TPG
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post #4491 of 4498 Old 06-23-2017, 02:25 AM
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Hi, use movie mode, there you will be able to disable it.

For CMS calibration you need software/meter, can't do it by looking any reference pattern or any mode or any filter.
can't use movie mode as I am using it for PC gaming and introduces too much lag. Game mode or PC mode use standard. Game mode apparently has dynamic contrast engaged with no way to disabled it, pc mode appears not to have it engaged. Would a calibration meter be useless if my tv has no CMS controls? Perhaps I could adjust the cuts,gains in the service menu? The model is samsung 40h5003 a budget tv without the advanced user menu controls for white balance, dynamic contrast control, etc like my other samsungs have. I am hoping the service menu "need to find service manual for it" would allow some more control.
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post #4492 of 4498 Old 06-23-2017, 04:39 AM
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Originally Posted by proudx View Post
can't use movie mode as I am using it for PC gaming and introduces too much lag. Game mode or PC mode use standard. Game mode apparently has dynamic contrast engaged with no way to disabled it, pc mode appears not to have it engaged. Would a calibration meter be useless if my tv has no CMS controls? Perhaps I could adjust the cuts,gains in the service menu? The model is samsung 40h5003 a budget tv without the advanced user menu controls for white balance, dynamic contrast control, etc like my other samsungs have. I am hoping the service menu "need to find service manual for it" would allow some more control.
I haven't checked your display model but usually some or (a lot or all) calibration controls are disabled in Game/PC mode, see which are active to PC mode. If you have them all disabled but in PC mode the dynamic contrast can be disabled, then use that mode and do a calibration with a meter of your VCGT (Video Card Gamma Table) so this will fix you Grayscale/Gamma automatically using proper calibration software. To fix the colors with 3D LUT look here: 3D LUTs for Direct3D and OpenGL applications (e.g. games) under Windows

All these stuff are out of topic here so if you need further help search/ask related specific threads.

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S/W: LightSpace CMS, SpaceMan ICC, SpaceMatch DCM, CalMAN 5, CalMAN RGB, ChromaPure, ControlCAL
V/P: eeColor 3D LUT Box - P/G: DVDO AVLab TPG
Meters: JETI Specbos 1211, Klein K-10A, i1PRO2, i1PRO, SpectraCAL C6, i1D3, C5
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post #4493 of 4498 Old 06-26-2017, 09:29 AM
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Good news, bad news

I used this to calibrate my HDTV and my laptop display and I'm very happy with the results for the most part. When browsing, gaming and just about every normal thing I do my laptop looks beautiful. However, movies and videos are a different story. Some look washed out and others are just too dark to see details in low light scenes. I haven't tried a lot of videos but enough that I don't think the source is the issue. I know that monitors and TVs should be calibrated slightly differently but the only thing that I did differently was the brightness. I cut off the TV at 16 and below but I tried to make all of the bars flash on my monitor (because my monitor supports full range, RGB all that jazz). Did I not calibrate my laptop correctly or is this software simply not made to work on monitors? I know that most movies and videos are encoded with ycbcr but does that hold true for Netflix and YouTube? I assumed they use RGB since that's basically the standard for the Internet. Do I need to use different settings for movies just to get the best possible picture?
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post #4494 of 4498 Old 06-26-2017, 09:50 AM
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Sounds like you have a levels mismatch in your video players. Monitors should be calibrated to 0-255, but for video to look right, the players have to expand video from 16-235 to 0-255. Video card settings are a factor, too.
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post #4495 of 4498 Old 07-13-2017, 09:04 AM
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Probably been asked at some point, but if I use the AVSHD window patterns (HCFR), they won't trigger the ABL on OLED, right?
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post #4496 of 4498 Old 07-13-2017, 09:18 AM
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Probably been asked at some point, but if I use the AVSHD window patterns (HCFR), they won't trigger the ABL on OLED, right?
You need to use a small window. See this post from ConnecTEDD:
Newbie calibration of LG B6P did not go so well
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post #4497 of 4498 Old 07-13-2017, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
You need to use a small window. See this post from ConnecTEDD:
Newbie calibration of LG B6P did not go so well
Thanks. So are the window patterns in AVSHD for HCFR considered "small." I haven't noticed any issues, but I'm not sure what to look for. If I load up a 100% window from the AVS disc, it reads around 130 nits (my target). If I then load a 100% white field, the screen measures dimmer, and is obviously dimmer to the eyes. It's clear that ABL is kicking in for the full screen pattern in this case.
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post #4498 of 4498 Old 07-13-2017, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overrid3 View Post
Thanks. So are the window patterns in AVSHD for HCFR considered "small." I haven't noticed any issues, but I'm not sure what to look for. If I load up a 100% window from the AVS disc, it reads around 130 nits (my target). If I then load a 100% white field, the screen measures dimmer, and is obviously dimmer to the eyes. It's clear that ABL is kicking in for the full screen pattern in this case.
The curves in that post show the window sizes required for E7V, B7V, E6V series TVs.

JVC DLA-RS4910
HCFR Bug List
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