Originally Posted by proudx
My understanding is you should always turn off dynamic contrast before adjusting color or tint using s blue filter? Why is that? if I want to use dynamic contrast it seems I should calibrate with dynamic contrast enabled as if I calibrate with dynamic contrast off the color saturation and tint saturation is off again once dynamic contrast is enabled.
Hi, Dynamic Contrast should always be off when you want accurate picture or you want to calibrate or view calibrated picture. Dynamic modes are boosting the saturation of colors and change gamma...to make them more saturated or make the dark shades even blacker or bright shades ever brighter; so they altering the original image to look more impressive and more inaccurate. A lot of users not familiar with calibration or the ones who haven't seen how a calibrated picture looks like they are impressed with dynamic modes and use them a lot.
Using Blue Filter is not working anymore unless you have an old CRT display.
CMS Calibration is not possible by only looking build in filters or by any type of $1 filter that is coming with disks or by photographic use quality and more expensive ones (Rosco E-Colour Tokyo Blue #071
or Lee Sheet Colour Filter #071
Tokyo or Kodak Deep Blue Tricolor #47B
Blue Filter Glasses are useless for displays other than CRT.
Blue filters used before 10-15 years mainly for CRT Displays where only Color/Tint controls were available for CMS; the calibration software/meter access were so limited and so expensive.....now in 2015 you can get an amazing for the performance colorimeter like X-Rite's i1Display PRO and by using an open source software for free (like HCFR), there is no reason to use any blue filter anymore.
Now most of the displays are coming with 6-Axis CMS controls.
Blue filters (on CRT) can work where for example the Red Primary is fully saturated and have no blue or green...blue primary has no green or red etc....But a fully saturated Primary needs to have the other 2 primaries added to be able to de-saturated it to it's target....so viewing thru the blue filter you will have light coming from all three primaries and this will make it's blue filter purpose of matching the luminance method no longer work.
When you will buy a colorimeter and use a software to perform a gamut calibration, when you will have calibrated the display full CMS, look throu the blue filter....you will see that it will look so bad. Blue filters designed to work for display that their primaries are tracking REC.709, now all modern displays have wider gamut coverage from REC.709, this is another one reason that Blue Filter is not worth it to use nowadays.
BTW I have posted there: What is the best calibration disc???
what you can do and what you can't do with only a calibration disk...any calibration disk not specific Ted's Disk.
The only think you can do with a color clipping pattern is to check (reduce color or contrast) and prevent color clipping of primary/secondary color luminance levels.
If you decide to buy a meter, the X-Rite i1Display PRO colorimeter is the best choice, for it's value/price, and get prepared to spend some time to get more deeper about how calibration stuff work.
There free calibration software solutions, you can download:
1) HCFR from here
with support forum topic: HCFR - Open source projector and display calibration software
2) The Free DPS version of LightSpace CMS
can be used also with an i1Display PRO meter, there available to read various guides
on the Light Illusion website.
The specific guide for use with LightSpace DPS is here
But there is a lot of potentially useful/interesting info in the various guides on the website also.
Support forum topic: Free LightSpace DPS - Manual Display Calibration