Xbox 360 automatically resets with HDMI switches - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 644 Old 01-17-2008, 04:21 PM
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Well damn. I opened up the metal housing to reveal the circuit board and I also found a black wire looping back on itself. I cut it, put it all back together and tried it out. Still works but still also gets the reboot problem. Now I'm really stumped!

A couple more pictures.



Hard to see but there is a short black wire looping back underneath the circuit board (in the picture its right behind the green wire).

edit: I removed the rest of the metal casing so I could see the underside of the circuit board. The black wire connected pins 2 and 6, and as I said I snipped it but the reboot issue remains.
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post #92 of 644 Old 01-17-2008, 05:14 PM
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Ah...I did the wire cutting, etc, but was still getting the reset...my issue was just resolved after reading here and noticing I did not put the switch back to 'TV' position. For whatever reason...that worked.

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post #93 of 644 Old 01-17-2008, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by FrostyMelon View Post

Ah...I did the wire cutting, etc, but was still getting the reset...my issue was just resolved after reading here and noticing I did not put the switch back to 'TV' position. For whatever reason...that worked.

unfortunately in my case (madcatz cable with jumper wire clipped), changing the TV/HDTV switch has no effect. still reboots on changing TV inputs. not sure what the deal is, any ideas?
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post #94 of 644 Old 01-17-2008, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blah238 View Post

Well damn. I opened up the metal housing to reveal the circuit board and I also found a black wire looping back on itself. I cut it, put it all back together and tried it out. Still works but still also gets the reboot problem. Now I'm really stumped!

A couple more pictures.



Hard to see but there is a short black wire looping back underneath the circuit board (in the picture its right behind the green wire).

edit: I removed the rest of the metal casing so I could see the underside of the circuit board. The black wire connected pins 2 and 6, and as I said I snipped it but the reboot issue remains.

I didn't see a picture of the underside of the circuit board, but somehow there is a connection from pin 28 to gnd (probably pin 26) and it is this connection that must be removed in order to prevent the reboot issue. There also needs to be a connection from pins 20 and 24 to gnd. These usually get connected to gnd through the switch when it's in the TV position. I suppose that if one were really crafty, you could avoid even the disassembly of the connector, by simply applying a narrow strip of tape covering pin 28 on the business end of the connector. Probably should extend the tape out the front of the connector and fold it back over the metal part of the connector housing.

The wire connecting pins 2 and 6 doesn't actually do anything, since both those pins are gnd inside the 360 anyway.

P.J.
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post #95 of 644 Old 01-17-2008, 08:39 PM
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thanks for your insight.

I took a picture of the bottom of the circuit board so you could see whats up. There is nothing connected to 28 or 26, and 20 and 24 are both connected.



I did see a blob of solder on pin 26 but its not connected to anything. strange.

any more ideas?

the good thing about this madcatz cable is its really easy to take apart and put back together good as new. i've actually already done this mod with a MS component cable and it works, no reboot issue on that one, but its so trashy and it still barely fits with the HDMI cord. I don't like how much pressure it must be putting on the motherboard squeezing it in there. would be nice if I could get this madcatz one working, as it fits perfectly, without leaving exposed wire or metal.
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post #96 of 644 Old 01-17-2008, 09:22 PM
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Actually, I couldn't tell without the aid of the camera, but it looks like that blob of solder on 26 actually crosses over the printed circuit connection for 28. Assuming that part is conductive from the surface that is what must be making the connection between 26 and 28.

So if I were to cut pin 26 physically that would disable component output but would fix the reboot issue?

Also one thing that confused me from reading previous posts was about cutting all non-optical wires. Assuming I just wanted to make an optical audio dongle out of this, would simply cutting every wire but 25, 27 and 29 (optical audio) work?
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post #97 of 644 Old 01-17-2008, 10:28 PM
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LOL, well I went jumping ahead of myself and cut the main component/RCA cord as well as physically disconnecting pin 26. Result: No audio, but no reboot either.

Pics of my overzealously destructive tinkering:


Help!
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post #98 of 644 Old 01-17-2008, 11:57 PM
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Woohoo! I got it! $10 digital optical sound dongle with no extraneous cords that fits with an HDMI cable and doesn't restart the 360 when switching inputs! Persistance paid off! I will pocket that $40 I saved and maybe buy you guys a beer. Thanks for helping me out with this.

I just grounded 20-24 (the brown wire, in my case) by soldering it to the lower metal case piece. There was already some solder there for some other grounded wire I removed, but it must have been some fancy next-gen space age solder because it wouldn't melt! No matter, I just used some regular leaded solder and plopped on top of the preexisting stuff. Was a little worried the different solders wouldn't stick to each other or conduct well enough but no problems so far.

Two last pics to finish it off:
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post #99 of 644 Old 01-18-2008, 07:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blah238 View Post

Woohoo! I got it! $10 digital optical sound dongle with no extraneous cords that fits with an HDMI cable and doesn't restart the 360 when switching inputs! Persistance paid off! I will pocket that $40 I saved and maybe buy you guys a beer. Thanks for helping me out with this.

I just grounded 20-24 (the brown wire, in my case) by soldering it to the lower metal case piece. There was already some solder there for some other grounded wire I removed, but it must have been some fancy next-gen space age solder because it wouldn't melt! No matter, I just used some regular leaded solder and plopped on top of the preexisting stuff. Was a little worried the different solders wouldn't stick to each other or conduct well enough but no problems so far.

Two last pics to finish it off:

Glad to see that you were persistent and got it working. FYI pins 18, 22 and 26 get grounded by the 360 when the connector is plugged in. As you found out, the only connections needed for an optical dongle, are pins 25, 27 and 29 to the Toslink connector and of course, pins 20 and 24 need to be grounded. Without connecting pins 20 and 24 to gnd, as you discovered, the reboot issue is gone but there is no optical audio. HDMI audio is still there, but what is the point in that?

I must say, that MadCatz cable looks quite a bit easier to work with compared to the official MS cable with the messy hot melt glue and all. The MadCatz cable's connector is attached to a proper circuit board. The Monoprice VGA cable that I modified wasn't quite as bad as the MS cable, but it was still a bit of a mess with hot melt glue. With the MS or the Monoprice cables, you still have to whittle down the plastic of the connector housing to get it to fit along with the HDMI cable. On a price basis, the MadCatz cable is as cheap as Monoprice and is easier to work with. I think this should be the recommended cable for HDMI audio dongle conversions. Of course most folks being cheap by nature, tend to want to hack away at the MS component cable that they already have, even if it is a tougher row to hoe.

P.J.
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post #100 of 644 Old 01-18-2008, 03:39 PM
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yeah I'd definitely go with the Madcatz one for optical audio, as we both said its much easier to work with. I bought the last one on Amazon (sorry!), but you can find it or its older brother (360, original Xbox, PS2, Gamecube) for $15 or less at Gamestop in-store and online and probably many other places.

I do have to caution that physically disconnecting pin 26 was very tough. I basically plucked away at it with a pair of tweezers until I could pry it off with tiny screwdriver. There is probably a better way.
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post #101 of 644 Old 01-19-2008, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blah238 View Post

yeah I'd definitely go with the Madcatz one for optical audio, as we both said its much easier to work with. I bought the last one on Amazon (sorry!), but you can find it or its older brother (360, original Xbox, PS2, Gamecube) for $15 or less at Gamestop in-store and online and probably many other places.

I do have to caution that physically disconnecting pin 26 was very tough. I basically plucked away at it with a pair of tweezers until I could pry it off with tiny screwdriver. There is probably a better way.

Well, I thought you had just removed the solder blob shorting pins 26 to 28. It looks like the solder blob is covering 2 pads on the circuit board. There are other places on the circuit board where you see 2 pads without any solder, like on pins 18-20 and 22-24. You got it working. Many ways to skin a cat.

P.J.
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post #102 of 644 Old 01-31-2008, 12:02 AM
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I have a slightly different problem, but I thought I'd post here and see if anyone has a simple solution.

I am going to run HDMI from the XBOX 360 to my receiver (Onkyo 875) and have the receiver upscale the video to send to the TV. Since HDMI is going to the receiver, I don't have a need to get optical audio there.

I do, however, need to get analog audio in addition to the digital audio that's passing through the HDMI in order to distribute sound to my whole house audio system through the receiver's zone 2 (which will only output from analog inputs).

Is there a cable I can connect simultaneously with the HDMI that will allow this (i.e., something thin enough to fit beside the HDMI)? If that will not work easily, will the MS HDMI cable with the dongle solve my problem (i.e., will it allow for both digital and analog audio simultaneously)? If the MS cable is the solution, I guess I need to return my Premium and hunt for a falcon Elite. Thanks!
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post #103 of 644 Old 01-31-2008, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by rickrayl View Post

I have a slightly different problem, but I thought I'd post here and see if anyone has a simple solution.

I am going to run HDMI from the XBOX 360 to my receiver (Onkyo 875) and have the receiver upscale the video to send to the TV. Since HDMI is going to the receiver, I don't have a need to get optical audio there.

I do, however, need to get analog audio in addition to the digital audio that's passing through the HDMI in order to distribute sound to my whole house audio system through the receiver's zone 2 (which will only output from analog inputs).

Is there a cable I can connect simultaneously with the HDMI that will allow this (i.e., something thin enough to fit beside the HDMI)? If that will not work easily, will the MS HDMI cable with the dongle solve my problem (i.e., will it allow for both digital and analog audio simultaneously)? If the MS cable is the solution, I guess I need to return my Premium and hunt for a falcon Elite. Thanks!

You can buy the MS HDMI cable kit since that comes with the audio only dongle. That will do what you want and of course the audio only dongle is thin enough to fit with both it and the HDMI cable connected. The audio only dongle has both optical and analog audio connections that are active at the same time. The analog audio is of course, a downmix of any multi-channel surround sound, while the optical connection carries the full surround.

Most people aren't willing to spend the $50 for the MS HDMI cable. So, there are 2 alternatives. Hunt down a MadCatz universal cable, since those are thin enough to coexist with the HDMI cable, or alternatively, you can use a MS or generic, component or VGA cable and trim the plastic of the cable's connector housing to allow the HDMI cable some room to fit. In either case, you may run into the problem that originally spawned this thread. That is, if you are displaying from the 360 on your TV or monitor via HDMI and you switch your TV away to a different input and then switch back to HDMI, it will cause your 360 to reboot itself. In your case with HDMI sent through your AV receiver, if you switch the AV receiver to a different input than HDMI from the 360 and then switch back, that's when you'll get the reboot. That won't happen with the official MS audio only dongle that comes with the MS HDMI cable kit. You can modify a standard component or VGA cable, or the MadCatz universal cable, to behave like the MS audio only dongle. To do that, you need to crack open the connector housing and modify some connections.

For a VGA cable, you just need to add a connection between pins 22 and 24. For a component cable including the MadCatz universal, you need to remove the connection between pins 26 and 28 and keep the HDTV/TV switch in the TV position.

BTW I understand why you want to run the 360 HDMI through the receiver in order to get the audio, but why do you want to use the receiver to "upscale" the video? The 360 can output in 1080P via HDMI already.

P.J
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post #104 of 644 Old 02-01-2008, 05:54 AM
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My new Elite is running to my Onkyo SR605 via HDMI than to My LCD. I can turn on the XBOX 360 but cannot even connect my wireless controller to the XBOX until my receiver is set to the correct mode. Then when I do switch the Onkyo my 360 restarts. I am only using the HDMI. Any suggestions? My main concern is that sometimes I will switch between gaming and tv to check a score or something, I do not want my 360 rebooting in the middle of a game. PLEASE HELP!

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post #105 of 644 Old 02-01-2008, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MlitantBEEMER View Post

My new Elite is running to my Onkyo SR605 via HDMI than to My LCD. I can turn on the XBOX 360 but cannot even connect my wireless controller to the XBOX until my receiver is set to the correct mode. Then when I do switch the Onkyo my 360 restarts. I am only using the HDMI. Any suggestions? My main concern is that sometimes I will switch between gaming and tv to check a score or something, I do not want my 360 rebooting in the middle of a game. PLEASE HELP!

It's been a while since I checked an HDMI only setup, but my notes say that if you have just the HDMI cable and no component or VGA or anything plugged into the AV connector, you should not be seeing a reboot issue when switching receiver or TV away from HDMI and then back. I'll check it again tonight. Normally, it's only an issue if you have a cable plugged into the AV connector. The "audio only" dongle that comes with the Elite, plugged into the AV connector is ok and will avoid the reboot issue, though you shouldn't have to do that.

P.J.
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post #106 of 644 Old 02-01-2008, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Valence01 View Post

It's been a while since I checked an HDMI only setup, but my notes say that if you have just the HDMI cable and no component or VGA or anything plugged into the AV connector, you should not be seeing a reboot issue when switching receiver or TV away from HDMI and then back. I'll check it again tonight. Normally, it's only an issue if you have a cable plugged into the AV connector. The "audio only" dongle that comes with the Elite, plugged into the AV connector is ok and will avoid the reboot issue, though you shouldn't have to do that.

P.J.


Yeah, I am just running HDMI. I do not have the dongle for SPDIF even out of it's package. I am dumbfounded as to what is causing it.

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post #107 of 644 Old 02-01-2008, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MlitantBEEMER View Post

Yeah, I am just running HDMI. I do not have the dongle for SPDIF even out of it's package. I am dumbfounded as to what is causing it.

Well, I tried it with HDMI only and I don't see any problem with rebooting when switching away from HDMI and then back. I have the 360 routed through a 4 x 1 HDMI switch and then to the TV, but I also tried it direct to the TV with no issue. I don't run it through my Yamaha AVR since it doesn't support 1080P. You might try it direct to your TV, just to eliminate your receiver from the equation. Otherwise, it might be worth it to plug in the "audio only" dongle and see if that makes a difference.

BTW, the behavior you described with respect to the 360 not starting up until it sees the HDMI connection, is correct.

P.J.
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post #108 of 644 Old 02-02-2008, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Valence01 View Post

Well, I tried it with HDMI only and I don't see any problem with rebooting when switching away from HDMI and then back. I have the 360 routed through a 4 x 1 HDMI switch and then to the TV, but I also tried it direct to the TV with no issue. I don't run it through my Yamaha AVR since it doesn't support 1080P. You might try it direct to your TV, just to eliminate your receiver from the equation. Otherwise, it might be worth it to plug in the "audio only" dongle and see if that makes a difference.

BTW, the behavior you described with respect to the 360 not starting up until it sees the HDMI connection, is correct.

P.J.

Thank you for the info. I will troubleshoot more this weekend.

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post #109 of 644 Old 02-20-2008, 07:08 PM
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Hi Guys.

I just wanted to chime in here and let everyone know that this worked for me as well. I had the microsoft component cable... inspired by one of the posters here, I cur off the rest of the cables, so I now just have the adapter for optical out

Cheers.
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post #110 of 644 Old 03-08-2008, 03:53 PM
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Hi !

I'm a lucky guy that got a broken optical adapter with my Elite.
I bought in ebay a VGA+optical Psyclone cable to get my optical output ok.

It worked, but xbox restarts when I change my Samsung input and come back to the HDMI input.

Anyone knows if I can open the Psyclone cable and fix the restart issue ?

Thanks,
Ulisses
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post #111 of 644 Old 03-09-2008, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by usimionato View Post

Hi !

I'm a lucky guy that got a broken optical adapter with my Elite.
I bought in ebay a VGA+optical Psyclone cable to get my optical output ok.

It worked, but xbox restarts when I change my Samsung input and come back to the HDMI input.

Anyone knows if I can open the Psyclone cable and fix the restart issue ?

Thanks,
Ulisses

I doubt if anyone here knows whether YOU can do that or not, but if you're asking whether it's possible at all, I'd have to guess and say yes. If you don't want to go to the hassle of prying the connector housing open, there is any easier way. Just put a small piece of tape over the contacts for pins 26 and 28. It may be a little tricky to get the tape to cover the contacts all the way to the back, but it will be just as effective at eliminating the rebooting issue, when switching away and back on HDMI. Probably should extend the tape longer than just what's needed to cover the contacts and fold the extra over the outside of the connector housing and keep an eye on the tape, if you plug and unplug the AV connector often.

So, I take it that the Psyclone cable coexists with the HDMI cable, with no mechanical interference?

P.J.
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post #112 of 644 Old 03-09-2008, 11:39 AM
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Thanks all, for a great thread.

I got the RRoD, and ponyed up for qan arcade while other is off in the MS coffin.
Boy was I pissed when I figured out no optical audio with HDMI.

So now, 2 minutes, a butter knife and pocket knife, and I have a dongle for optical out.

Thanks for saving me the 50.00.

Cheers!
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post #113 of 644 Old 03-13-2008, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Valence01 View Post

I doubt if anyone here knows whether YOU can do that or not, but if you're asking whether it's possible at all, I'd have to guess and say yes. If you don't want to go to the hassle of prying the connector housing open, there is any easier way. Just put a small piece of tape over the contacts for pins 26 and 28. It may be a little tricky to get the tape to cover the contacts all the way to the back, but it will be just as effective at eliminating the rebooting issue, when switching away and back on HDMI. Probably should extend the tape longer than just what's needed to cover the contacts and fold the extra over the outside of the connector housing and keep an eye on the tape, if you plug and unplug the AV connector often.

So, I take it that the Psyclone cable coexists with the HDMI cable, with no mechanical interference?

P.J.

Hey PJ - or anyone else who has done this - I'm in the same boat, having cracked open the casing of my bundled Premium cable so that I can fit an HDMI cable in too, so now I just need to do something to pins 26 and 28 to get rid of the reboot issue... only I don't know what they are and what to do to them!

Would you be able to elaborate in a way that someone who hasn't touched a soldering iron in 10 years can understand? Maybe with some pictures of the pin layouts and where I need to do what, if that's something that can be found online...

Oh, and if (as I assume it will) this will render the cable useless as a component video cable, am I able to then hack off the cable that comes out of it - all 6 wires/plugs - for the sake of tidiness?

Would be much appreciated.
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post #114 of 644 Old 03-13-2008, 08:07 AM
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Hey Tom,

Well here's the original link on removing the black loop wire which causes the reboot issue pictures included.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post12269528

since you're not worried about using the cable again for its orginal purpose except just to get optical out just cut the black wire, also cut all other cables for the video and audio via rca only only leave the cables from the optical intact. if you want to go an extra step then remove all the pins not in use but is not necessary. Oh more thing don't forget to select on your swicth TV option so that it works.
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post #115 of 644 Old 03-13-2008, 04:38 PM
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Many thanks mate.
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post #116 of 644 Old 03-14-2008, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Whitaker View Post

Hey PJ - or anyone else who has done this - I'm in the same boat, having cracked open the casing of my bundled Premium cable so that I can fit an HDMI cable in too, so now I just need to do something to pins 26 and 28 to get rid of the reboot issue... only I don't know what they are and what to do to them!

Would you be able to elaborate in a way that someone who hasn't touched a soldering iron in 10 years can understand? Maybe with some pictures of the pin layouts and where I need to do what, if that's something that can be found online...

Oh, and if (as I assume it will) this will render the cable useless as a component video cable, am I able to then hack off the cable that comes out of it - all 6 wires/plugs - for the sake of tidiness?

Would be much appreciated.

If your connector looks like the one in the picture linked above, then the simplest thing is just to snip the wire loop connecting 26 and 28. You can completely remove the pins if you want, but there are 2 problems with that. You have to dig through all the hot melt glue to be able to extract the pins and once you've done that, there is no going back. That is, you won't be able to reconnect the pins to allow component to work. If your connector doesn't look like the one in the picture, then you'll need to dig through the hot melt glue and remove the solder blob bridging pins 26 and 28.

As mentioned by others, if you want to make this an "optical only" dongle, you can remove all the other wires. No soldering iron needed, just a pair of wire cutters. It should be obvious, but you do need to leave the wires going to the small cicruit board. That's where the selector switch and the optical out connector are located. Of course you need the optical out connector and the switch is also needed. It needs to be in the TV position.



P.J.
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post #117 of 644 Old 03-15-2008, 02:09 PM
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In case anyone is interested, here's what the official MS "optical audio only" dongle looks like inside:



Notice in the right picture, that there are 2 jumper wires, one between pins 18 and 20, the other between pins 22 and 24. On a component cable the switch makes these connections and you just have to remove the jumper wire between pins 26 and 28, clearly absent in the pictures of the optical audio only dongle.

I don't remember offhand, if I took pictures of the insides of a VGA cable. I'll look around to see if I did and post them, if I can find any.

P.J.
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post #118 of 644 Old 03-19-2008, 04:00 AM
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registered just to say thanks for fixing my problem. google search lead me here and my problem is solved! thanks to all involved!
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post #119 of 644 Old 03-23-2008, 02:45 AM
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Hi guys!

Had the exact problem with my 360 too. Chanced upon here via Google n got it working great!!

Thanks to everyone!
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post #120 of 644 Old 03-23-2008, 05:39 AM
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Did not read through the entire thread but I have no problems. My 360 premium is connected to the hdmi matrix switch. One output going to my samsung tv, another output going to my mitsubishi projector. I also use the component dongle that came with it though for optical on the projector/avr set up since if i use hdmi on both, i only get 2 channel because my tv only has 2 channel sound. Anyway everything works, I was actually switching back and for while downloading a movie right before reading this thread. Switched it back and forth to both displays. Never had to snip anything, just crack it open.
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