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PS3 Controller Charging

17K views 27 replies 16 participants last post by  andreo 
#1 ·
Hi


Do any of you know if the charging voltage/amps output by the USB ports on the PS3 adhere to the general USB standard? I'm trying to determine if I can charge my controllers using my Blackberry charger, which plugs into a wall outlet and has a mini-USB out for charging. The Blackberry also charges off my PC, so I'm assuming that the plug adheres to the spec. I just want to make sure that I would be starting a fire or ruining the controllers if I attempt to charge them this way.


As an aside, I think the PS3 scheme is dumb - wireless is nice, but the controllers have to be charged, and the cable is about 10 feet too short to leave plugged in. It would be nice if they charged while the system is in standby. I know there is a charging station available, but I really don't want to buy it - as much as I like the system, I feel like I'm being "nickel-and-dimed" by Sony - no HD cable with the system, no USB cable provided when purchasing an additional controller, etc).
 
#4 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by joemama /forum/post/0


as much as I like the system, I feel like I'm being "nickel-and-dimed" by Sony - no HD cable with the system, no USB cable provided when purchasing an additional controller, etc).

I laugh when I see PS3 owners complaining about being nickeled and dimed. Owning and accessorising both a PS3 and a 360 such complaints as having to buy a longer USB cable, for all of $5, seems trivial. Not to sound too rude. But having an open standard as a way to charge controllers is a god send. Not to mention open standards for external storage (no memory cards) and the standard 2.5" HDD (no ridiculously priced proprietary HDD enclosures).
 
#5 ·
It's certainly nice that a mini-USB cable is all that's needed to charge a PS3 controller. At the same time you have to admit that it's extraordinarily stupid that the PS3 has to be left on in order to perform said charging, especially when the 360's play-and-charge kit doesn't require the system be left on.
 
#6 ·
All usb is not built alike. Some ports dont have the amperage, especially on older computers.


Just because it also uses a usb or mini usb port doesnt mean it adheres to the usb spec as well. Some cell phones have mini usb ports, but the charge circuits are designed differently and as such have special parts inside the charger than make it a non standard usb interface. Some of those wont charge the ps3 controller.


If you have a usb charger for some device and you know that device is 5V (if you can connect it to a pc and transfer data over that usb port it is a good candidate, although even that doesnt promise that the charging will work), go ahead and try it. It most-likely will not damage your controller. If it cannot charge the controller, then the controller led's just wont flash, i.e. no charging going on. You cannot overcharge the ps3 controllers, they are self regulated internally.


I use my cable box usb ports and a usb - miniusb cable. The cable box ports are active even when the cable box itself is turned off, so I can charge my ps3 controllers regardless of if my ps3 is on/off or the cable box is on/off.
 
#7 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gradthrawn /forum/post/0


I laugh when I see PS3 owners complaining about being nickeled and dimed. Owning and accessorising both a PS3 and a 360 such complaints as having to buy a longer USB cable, for all of $5, seems trivial. Not to sound too rude. But having an open standard as a way to charge controllers is a god send. Not to mention open standards for external storage (no memory cards) and the standard 2.5" HDD (no ridiculously priced proprietary HDD enclosures).


I have no issue with the open standard, which I agree is a good move on their part. But I don't see how an open standard would prevent them from supplying the parts needed to support their own system.


When I spend $35 on a controller I would expect that they would provide the cable necessary to charge it (and one longer than what comes with the system itself- whose going to sit that close to their large HD TV to play when wired?) And a $599 system designed for HD should come with HD cables - the composite AV out crap they send with it should be the aftermarket part needed, not the HDMI or component cables.


I'm know I'm not alone in thinking this.


Thanks for the advice all. I didn't even think to charge it off the cable box or computer (doh).
 
#8 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by joemama /forum/post/0


Hi


Do any of you know if the charging voltage/amps output by the USB ports on the PS3 adhere to the general USB standard? I'm trying to determine if I can charge my controllers using my Blackberry charger, which plugs into a wall outlet and has a mini-USB out for charging. The Blackberry also charges off my PC, so I'm assuming that the plug adheres to the spec. I just want to make sure that I would be starting a fire or ruining the controllers if I attempt to charge them this way.


As an aside, I think the PS3 scheme is dumb - wireless is nice, but the controllers have to be charged, and the cable is about 10 feet too short to leave plugged in. It would be nice if they charged while the system is in standby. I know there is a charging station available, but I really don't want to buy it - as much as I like the system, I feel like I'm being "nickel-and-dimed" by Sony - no HD cable with the system, no USB cable provided when purchasing an additional controller, etc).

I can tell you from personal experience that it doesn't work using a blackberry charger. I tried that when I first got it. I don't have a computer or cable box in my home theater and was looking for a way to charge me controllers when I turned my system off. Someone said you can charge them with the XBox360's USB port when it is off but I haven't tried this yet. Has anyone here tried it?
 
#9 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by chadly25 /forum/post/0


I can tell you from personal experience that it doesn't work using a blackberry charger. I tried that when I first got it. I don't have a computer or cable box in my home theater and was looking for a way to charge me controllers when I turned my system off. Someone said you can charge them with the XBox360's USB port when it is off but I haven't tried this yet. Has anyone here tried it?

Y'know, I never thought about trying to charge the PS3 controller from my 360.
 
#10 ·
I like the standard mini usb connection. I do wish the extra controllers came with a cord. I also wish for a exchangeable battery. When the internal battery stops charging or holds a small charge, we just throw it out? I also want rumble. I got my hdmi and optical cable from monoprice. I'm also curious if the 360s usbs are powered when off. Since the power supply is before the switch, I think it is possible. I'll have to test that out.


Is it better to discharge completely before recharging or to top up the battery regularly?
 
#11 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by joemama /forum/post/0


When I spend $35 on a controller I would expect that they would provide the cable necessary to charge it (and one longer than what comes with the system itself- whose going to sit that close to their large HD TV to play when wired?)

I do understand what you're saying. But after having to pay ~$50 for a controller (same as the SIXAXIS price) plus $25 for a play and charge kit + plus another $15 for a battery pack for any other controllers (because that's the only way you can get the Lithium-ion rechargable battery without buying another play and charge kit) I was more than happy to drop $50 on a controller and have to find my own USB cable.


Quote:
And a $599 system designed for HD should come with HD cables - the composite AV out crap they send with it should be the aftermarket part needed, not the HDMI or component cables.


I'm know I'm not alone in thinking this.

I think including composite cables (at a minimum) is the right move, they should probably not be removed for the sake of all those non-HD saps out there.
But I do agree, no HD cables in any form is a mistake. I've already had to inform several associates, after viewing their setup, that they're not watching a damn thing in HD using those composite cables. They all looked surprised! They should also label the cables with a wrap as well (if they included a set of component cables). Composite marked SD and the component marked HD. That would probably save them from a lot of support calls.
 
#12 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mindwarper /forum/post/0


I like the standard mini usb connection. I do wish the extra controllers came with a cord. I also wish for a exchangeable battery. When the internal battery stops charging or holds a small charge, we just throw it out? I also want rumble. I got my hdmi and optical cable from monoprice. I'm also curious if the 360s usbs are powered when off. Since the power supply is before the switch, I think it is possible. I'll have to test that out.


Is it better to discharge completely before recharging or to top up the battery regularly?

I think that when the battery no longer holds a charge there will be kits to replace the battery (much like the iPod). Nobody is going to throw these away. At the very least you will be able to send them to Sony for a replacement.


I'm not 100% sure the power is on when turned off on the 360, but that was a comment I have seen in the past in these forums. I'll try it tonight to see.


It is always best to discharge the remote completely before recharging regardless of what the manufacturer tells you. In my industry, custom a/v, I can tell you without a doubt the #1 reason why most remotes (with rechargable batteries) fail is because the client uses it for an hour and puts it back on the charging station. This holds true for AMX, Crestron, Marantz, Universal.... I know it is a pain in the butt to run it down completely because it will always go dead during a game, but at least run it down to a very low level before recharging. FYI - This is what I have done with my laptop battery and it still holds a charge for over three hours at a time and it is four years old.
 
#13 ·
Except that's only true with the older Nickel-Metal batteries. You should *never* drain a Lithium-Ion battery completely down, as this will hasten the battery's inevitable demise. While I also agree that it is best to not constantly put it on the charger, as that can also hasten the wear-out, draining it all the way down is the fastest way to wear out Lithium Ion batteries.


The best method to keep you Li-Ion batteries in best shape for as long as possible is to wait until the battery only has about 25-50% of its charge left, and then charge it completely in one go. Charging the battery partially is OK if you let it charge to about 80-90% and then start using it again, but charging partially, then letting it sit, then completing the charge is not as healthy.


I have gotten this information from multiple sources, and I've seen first hand what consistent full-drain of a Li-Ion can do, as my mother used the same Ni-MH full-drain method (meant to prevent the onset of 'memory issues') on her new Li-Ion based laptop. Her 4 hour battery life was reduced to about a 1 hour life, in the course of a 5-month period, simply because she would perform an absolute full drain on the laptop every other week. After that happened, I told her the proper method of caring for a Li-Ion battery, and two and a half years later it can still hold a 2.5-3 hour charge.
 
#14 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by chadly25 /forum/post/0


It is always best to discharge the remote completely before recharging regardless of what the manufacturer tells you. In my industry, custom a/v, I can tell you without a doubt the #1 reason why most remotes (with rechargable batteries) fail is because the client uses it for an hour and puts it back on the charging station. This holds true for AMX, Crestron, Marantz, Universal.... I know it is a pain in the butt to run it down completely because it will always go dead during a game, but at least run it down to a very low level before recharging. FYI - This is what I have done with my laptop battery and it still holds a charge for over three hours at a time and it is four years old.

This isn't necessary for lithium ion batteries. The only thing that might happen to a user is the battery level gauge will not be able to calibrate itself, giving an erroneous reading. A simple full discharge and recharge at any point will correct this problem.


Your laptop example is confounding issues. Lithium ion batteries lose charge capacity due to both how charged they are for long periods of time and to what degree of heat they are exposed for long periods of time. Running your laptop off its battery mostly (as your example would imply) keeps both the charge level and heat level lower than if a user runs off of the AC converter most of the time. This prolongs the battery life.


If you're talking about NiMH batteries, then that's fairly sound advice. Maybe a bit extreme, but they do have a slight memory effect.
 
#15 ·
As a matter of fact they already sell the battery pack for this remote.

http://www.ztnetstore.com/product_in...roducts_id=221


All of the remotes we install use Li-ion batteries and we have yet to replace one that the client runs down 90%+ each time before charging. On the other hand, we consistantly replace batteries of those that charge them nightly after an hour or two of useage. I do have an above average understanding of Li-ion batteries and how they should work, but my real world experiences tend to differ. Perhaps there are some quality control issues with these particualar batteries....I don't know. I just know they fail when they *should't*
 
#16 ·
Only 10$. for a replacement battery. I'm surprised. So I should wait until 50% down before recharging completely? I didn't test out the 360 yet. Does it charge when off?


Quote:
Originally Posted by chadly25 /forum/post/0


As a matter of fact they already sell the battery pack for this remote.

http://www.ztnetstore.com/product_in...roducts_id=221


All of the remotes we install use Li-ion batteries and we have yet to replace one that the client runs down 90%+ each time before charging. On the other hand, we consistantly replace batteries of those that charge them nightly after an hour or two of useage. I do have an above average understanding of Li-ion batteries and how they should work, but my real world experiences tend to differ. Perhaps there are some quality control issues with these particualar batteries....I don't know. I just know they fail when they *should't*
 
#17 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mindwarper /forum/post/0


Only 10$. for a replacement battery. I'm surprised. So I should wait until 50% down before recharging completely? I didn't test out the 360 yet. Does it charge when off?

I got into a pretty serious game of Gears last night and forgot to test. Didn't hit the pillow until after 2. I'll try and remember tonight.
 
#20 ·
The way the 360 charges, via the play and charge, when its off is when you had it on while plugged in. I just tested it with my ps3 controller and it does not charge when turned off.
 
#21 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by chadly25 /forum/post/0


I can tell you from personal experience that it doesn't work using a blackberry charger.

I've had no problems
 
#22 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by caeguy /forum/post/0


I've had no problems

Mine just blinks one time and then turns off. Are you using the wall charging cable or the usb cable that plugs into your computer? I was referring to the wall charger. If in fact you are using a wall charger, is it the original charger or an aftermarket? My phone is the 7520 but I am not sure if that makes a difference on the charger.


When yours charges does it constantly blink as if it were charging on the ps3?
 
#23 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by chadly25 /forum/post/0


Mine just blinks one time and then turns off. Are you using the wall charging cable or the usb cable that plugs into your computer? I was referring to the wall charger. If in fact you are using a wall charger, is it the original charger or an aftermarket? My phone is the 7520 but I am not sure if that makes a difference on the charger.


When yours charges does it constantly blink as if it were charging on the ps3?

I'm using the OEM wall charger and it works just like it was plugged into the PS3.
 
#24 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by caeguy /forum/post/0


I'm using the OEM wall charger and it works just like it was plugged into the PS3.

how about a motorola slivr 7 phone charger?


tried it last night it doesn't work... bummer.... however i did find out it will turn on the ps3 from the bedroom bedstand through multiple walls and at least 50 feet of distance.... i've heard most people couldn't get the 6axis to do anything beyond 15ft...
 
#25 ·
My original charger for my blackberry certainly does not work, I tried again when I got home. I wonder what the differences are between the two and why mine doesn't work??? Frustrating. My only thought is that the charger is looking for some level of communication from my phone to send out voltage. It's a stretch but it's all I can come up with.
 
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