So after being in the same boat as everyone else with a projector, I stumbled on this forum.
At first I wanted an extension, but didn't want a wire running down the floor from the dresser next to the couch with the projector to the wall where the image is projected.
My setup is quite restrictive since I live in a bachelor with my GF and conservation of space and esthetics are everything in such a cramped space.
Anyhow, I stopped by The Source (Cdn Radioshack) and picked up a soldering kit, some wire, electrical tape, and an 800mA Universal Adapter.
I couldn't get a connection going for the life of me when I tried the chop-stick/wooden peg method. I saw the connections inside that connector, but the wires were fairly rigid, and I couldn't get them to stick.
I tried soldering them to the connection thinking I'll unsoder if anything, but realized I'm melting the plastic.
After much frustration, I decided to cut the wire - all while my GF is playing with 2 candles. I probably spent a good hour trying to connect the cut wire of the sensor bar to the wires I connected to the AC adapter... but I would get no current going through them!
Only after looking closely at the 2 red/orange wires, I realized that they have an insulating film around them. I quickly rubbed the wire on the solder gun to remove the film and VIOLA! The digicam showed signs of life!
I'm not quite sure of the increments on the adapter, but it ranges from 3-12V
I get dim lights at 3V, but the Wiimote can't read them. I start getting a readable signal at 5, and up all the way to 9V.
Problem is, that the wall is about 15 ft away from me, and at 5V the cursor jitters. In fact, it's jittery no matter how high the voltage is. At 9V its jittery the least, but the bar gets EXTREMELY hot.
On a side note:
While fiddling around with the wires, I got frustrated and thought I'm gonna replace them with the one I bought. I was quite surprised when I saw that Nintendo used their own screws to close the bar. Anyone knows what can open them?
Also, I found some old remotes around the house and removed the IR lamp from them. They're quite weak, and one looses signal at over 6-7 ft.
I'm starting to think that the jittering is not due to the strength/weakness of the lamps, but the distance between them. As you get further away from the bar, the 2 IR dots become closer, making it harder to triangulate accuretaly, perhaps a custom bar for that kind of distance would be more appropriate... Any thoughts?
Anyway, great forum guys, glad I stumbled on it. Lots of pioneers and experimentalists here
I think if you separate the distance on the IR lamps but maybe another 2-3 inches, you will get more ranger on them + lower sensitivity.