Official Pioneer Elite BDP-05FD & BDP-51FD Owners Thread / Vs 1.32 DTS-HD MA - Page 1027 - AVS Forum
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post #30781 of 30790 Old 11-01-2014, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b curry View Post
There is a hack for DVD region change that can be found very easy if you Google. It requires a service remote or can also be done by programing some universal remotes.

That said there is no known hack or way to reprogram the Blu-ray region settings for the BDP 05/51FD. It's assumed that it's a combination of hardware/firmware in these machines. Anecdotally and through practical experiance the machines will accept the European firmware and work ok but will remain region A machines. So one might assume that it's not a firmware only thing.

As for Blu-ray region designation, blu-ray.com and regionfreemovies.com are a good place to look up a movies region code. Most (but not all) Paramount titles are region free. You can also just look on the disc box for a region code.

You might try re-flashing your firmware or load v1.74, can't hurt at this point. Otherwise, ship it off to Pioneer, find a local service center, or trash it and pick up something else.
According to regionfreemovies.com Dark Shadows is region free, it is the single BD that I have tried multiple times to play and it will not. Is there a chance that something is wrong with the disc? Will try the update tonight to 1.74 to see if that solves the problem.

On an aside... when clearing the memory cached, the player says to wait a while. What is a "while" to wait? In my experience the player does nothing to confirm that it has erased the cache.
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post #30782 of 30790 Old 11-01-2014, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charly921 View Post
According to regionfreemovies.com Dark Shadows is region free, it is the single BD that I have tried multiple times to play and it will not. Is there a chance that something is wrong with the disc? Will try the update tonight to 1.74 to see if that solves the problem.

On an aside... when clearing the memory cached, the player says to wait a while. What is a "while" to wait? In my experience the player does nothing to confirm that it has erased the cache.
Yes, it could be the disc.

Sorry, can't help on the memory question but I don't recall ever seeing that message. Maybe do a factory reset on the machine. These things get hung or corrupt sometimes as they are really just specialized computers.
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post #30783 of 30790 Old 11-05-2014, 01:13 PM
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whatever the case, it is not worthwhile to repair the Pioneer... New players are under $100, are a lot faster in loading movies, have streaming capabilities and wi-fi. The only advantage the Pioneer has is a decent audio section for playing back CDs...

If it's not a BIG screen, it's not a theater...
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post #30784 of 30790 Old 11-05-2014, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Jon S View Post
...
The only advantage the Pioneer has is a decent audio section for playing back CDs...
And movies! Don't forget those movies... it has those DAC's on all 7 output channels.

But I agree. Even if you want the audio chops of the Pioneer, it's not worth repairing. Just get a nice, new Oppo if the analog stuff it that important to your setup.
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post #30785 of 30790 Old 11-07-2014, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by erkq View Post
And movies! Don't forget those movies... it has those DAC's on all 7 output channels.

But I agree. Even if you want the audio chops of the Pioneer, it's not worth repairing. Just get a nice, new Oppo if the analog stuff it that important to your setup.
Yes, i would rate the analog audio performance of the Oppo 103 about the same as the 51FD.

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post #30786 of 30790 Old 11-22-2014, 03:22 PM
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Just an update...

I upgraded to 1.74 and voila, the Pio started playing BD's again...

Until last night... it won't play Toy Story 3.

A factory reset was mentioned, how do I do that?

Thanks.
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post #30787 of 30790 Old 11-22-2014, 10:37 PM
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Anyone have any special video settings for the bdp-05?

Your audio room is only limited by the amount of money in your wallet.
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post #30788 of 30790 Old 11-23-2014, 08:24 AM
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Analog out huge upgrade

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Originally Posted by nickbojko View Post
OK the wolfson wm8740 is a voltage output which means the I/V convertion was done internally,so you can come out of the positive output with only a 47uf 25v cap bypassed with a polystyrene.08 to .1 value.
Nickbojko was universally derided for this, but I have done part of this mod and it is an amazing difference. You can see the technical details by searching back to his posts. His mod involved drilling into the board and doing some other unreversable changes. It can be done much easier and in a way that is reversable.

First, I will make some more general comments. Our Pioneers only have 0.2v output instead of the industry standard 2.0v. This is not enough for a passive line stage, and if you have an amp with high input sensitivity (2.0v), then you will need a line stage with a gain of 20db or more. Doing this mod, will cost you two things in the big picture. One is balanced operation which means the S/N will drop from 116db to 110db, which is not a big deal. The second cost is 6 db of gain, so your line amplification must be greater than 26db. If your amplifier input sensitivity is 1.0v, then 20db, 0.5v then 14db.(best to exceed these by 6 db).

Having enough output is an obvious concern, but eliminating unnecessary circuitry and gain stages will be a huge leap forward in sound. Attached is all the wonderful balancing and buffering circuitry that is removed for one channel. Our wonderful Wolfson MW8740's specs don't list an output impedance, but do claim to be able to drive a 1k load, so it should be fine into a 10k load or higher in the real world. For those who don't want to lose S/N and only want to hot rod two channels, interstage transformers might work well and should gain back the 6 db of gain (Edcor transformers were used in $5k PS Audio digital unit).

The sound is outrageously good. My modification was for only two channels so I have retained the front left and right outputs which I can compare with my hot rodded stereo outputs. If the rest of your system is not a wasteland of integrated circuits (cheap receivers) you will hear blacker backgrounds from which more detail will emerge. I am sure expensive CD players might sound better in some ways, but our Pioneer hot rodded has a palpability that is hard to beat given that it just has less circuitry in the way (though the DAC has more then a current output DAC). I am sure better two channel sound can be had, but for two channel home theatre I don't believe this can be matched. And the great thing is that all of the analog outputs can be hotrodded for those who desire. I doubt their is a unit that would beat this on the Dolbly True-HD and DTS-HD Audio tracks.

So NickBojko directions do work, but you can do things much easier by upgrading the jacks on the back. (For me, this was just the stereo outputs.) The Pioneers jacks are not soldered in! Just removed them and they unclip from the board. Then solder in a coupling cap to the hot of this jack and then attach that to the bottom of the board on the leading lug of the first capacitor, C58 (download the service manual and c58,c60,c62,c64,c154,c156,c158,c160 is the list of DAC coupling capacitors labelled on the board and schematic and see the Nickbojko posts.) If your load is 100k, 2uf takes you to a 3db down of 0.8hz, double this to 4uf for 50k input, etc.. You can go a lot smaller than this for most of the analog outputs by the way. I am no expert, but I don't think center and surround channels don't have low bass, so capacitors of 1/10th the size would be fine; 3db down point of 8 hz.

You'll need to find a good point for the RCA jacks ground and then you've done it without drilling holes (well I believe for the extra output jacks for full surround that you may need to find a way to tack into the top side of the board.) The output of the Pioneer circuitry was disconnected by replacing the Pioneer snap in RCA jacks with standard ones. If you are just doing the two channel mod, again just tack in from the bottom and don't disconnect the capacitor as much of the circuitry is chared with front left and right. For the other channels if it makes tacking in easier feel free to dissconnect a leg of the capacitor, and if you are really cheap you can tac to the end of the 10uf electrolytic capacitor and use it as the coupling cap (otherwise please optimize your size and type of capacitor for each channel.) And for the sake of full disclosure, my unique line stage has a coupling cap in the line input, so all I did was run a wire straight from the DAC electrically. Don't do this, but if you are a cheapskate and your are doing all the lines, then just reuse the capacitors with wire running to the new jacks (don't try to use the Pionner jacks, just get cheap replacements or teflon/Gold like me.) If you are going to take the time to do this, geting rid of the electorlytic coupling caps and replacing with a non-electrolyic is highly recommended.

So, this is not too bad, the most confusing part is service manual diagrams for the analog circuitry (starting on page 98). To desolder the capacitors you will need to carefully remove some of the ribbon connectors to the analog board and a few screws holding the board in and its been a while for me, so watch the jacks on the back too. Further upgrading of power supply capacitors would be interesting, but there are quite a few and I have no idea which ones might yield the most. I have no plans to do this unless Nickbojko has pioneered that area too. For those, who've used a soldering iron before this is a very nice project and a great way to improve the analog out
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post #30789 of 30790 Old 11-23-2014, 08:27 AM
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post #30790 of 30790 Old Today, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charly921 View Post
Just an update...

I upgraded to 1.74 and voila, the Pio started playing BD's again...

Until last night... it won't play Toy Story 3.

A factory reset was mentioned, how do I do that?

Thanks.
Hi charly,

Lot of useful info on the first page of this thread on how to do various things, anyway factory reset is as follows below, remember to take a note of all your personal settings before doing so as you go to factory default for the current firmware installed with a factory reset, this should always be done after a firmware update. Note that most of the last few of the firmware updates for this player are disc compatibility updates due to the studios still playing around with the authoring, they really need to get out more
Factory Reset - to do with the player showing Power On, on the front panel (not the remote) Press and hold the Stop button and whilst holding down the Stop button press and hold down the Power button. Keep them both pressed until the player shuts down, I would at this stage, if and once the player has powered down, unplug the power from the mains supply and leave for about 1minute or more. Then power up your player and put in your personal settings that you noted earlier. Power down the player and leave for at least 30 seconds (this is mostly to prolong the life of the player) before restarting to ensure your settings are stored.

With regard to the clearing cache 'wait a while' message I remember seeing this as well and you are right the player gives no notification the cache is cleared I just used to leave it for 30secs to minute before continuing, it does clear because the point at which Avatar had been stopped was no longer memorised when started again.

Is Toy Story 3 working now or still a non starter. If it isn't I would suspect this is probably due to the fact another firmware update is probably due it is more than a year now and as I noted above the studios are still messing about with authoring. Unfortunately I no longer have my 05 so can't test any of these things (red laser for CD died) just after you got yours sorted.

Hope all is well with you otherwise
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