Official Panasonic DMP-BD35/55 Owners Thread - Page 102 - AVS Forum
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post #3031 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pgnewarkboy View Post

I have Verizon FIOS. My XBOX 360 is connected wirelessly to the internet via an adapter sold by microsoft. How do you do it with the Panasonic BD 35?

No. Unless you use one of those WDS supported routers (like WRT54G).
If you find some other way, please share...
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post #3032 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teachsac View Post

Yeap. No rear projection DLP at this time does a true 5:5. They do 3:2 to get to 60 and then double to get to 120.

S~

According to the Samsung guys I've talked to, their 120 Hz is for 3D support only (60 Hz per eye). IT is not invoked from regular 2D content. But motion artifacts are nowhere near as bad on a DLP set as on an LCD flat panel so DLPs don't really need 120 Hz mode as much as LCD TVs do.

And *most* 120Hz LCD TVs do the 2:3 frame insertion and double to 120Hz. they do not support 24Hz natively by multiplying it times five (5:5 pulldown).

The main benefit of 120Hz processing on an LCD TV is usually not to eliminate judder but to eliminate motion smear which is something else entirely.

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post #3033 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drsoggy View Post

Don't get flustered. I have the Denon 3805 too, and I just bought the BD55. As far as calibrating goes. If you have already adjusted the db level and input the speaker distance then don't bother doing any adjustments in the Blu Ray. Also your receiver will show DTS until you hit the Ext In button on the bottom of your remote. Then it will be in the HD analogue audio format. I'm going to watch a movie for the first time in the HD audio format. I will let you know what I think. I did watch a SD DVD, and the audio in DTS was way better than my last player.

Hope that helps,

Scott

Scott - So what do you think of the HD audio formats? I also have the Denon 3805 and just got the BD55 set up last night and have been experimenting between the bitstream DTS and DD and switching to the analog setup for the lossless formats.
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post #3034 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIslander View Post

That sounds like a means of boosting the sub for all inputs. If so, you'll end up with too much bass on your digital sources and will need to adjust it up and down depending on what you are watching. Hopefully, your AVR has a setting that only applies to the external inputs where you can boost the subwoofer output. That won't affect the digital sources. You'll set it once and forget about it after that.

I think your right, it sounds impressive but the bass does sound like a "Loundness" button was pressed. Looks like the Pani is going to have to do it all... I found this.

1 Press DVD/6CH as the input source.
When you use the remote control, press SUB key to switch to sub
screen mode.
If speaker system B is on when DVD/6CH is selected as the input
source, it switches off and speaker system A turns on automatically.
2 Select "6CH INPUT" by pressing the INPUT MODE key.
3 Start playback of the DVD software.
4 Adjust the volume.
It is not possible to adjust the volume level or sound quality (SET
UP, SOUND, LISTEN MODE, ACT. EQ and TONE key will not be
functional) of the channels separately when the receiver is in the
6CH INPUT mode. Adjust the volume with the controls of the DVD
player.
For the powered subwoofer, you can adjust the volume of the
subwoofer using the subwoofer's own volume control.


Oh well...
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post #3035 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boylan13 View Post



The main benefit of 120Hz processing on an LCD TV is usually not to eliminate judder but to eliminate motion smear which is something else entirely.

The Mits. 73835 DOES have "motion smear" when panning, but that is the only time I really notice it.

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post #3036 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark7pt1 View Post

Could some one with either a 35 or 55 press "display" and take a photo of the screen. Would like to see how readable the "time remaining" or other information would be from across the room.

Sorry, I don't have a picture. But if you can't easily read even small text you aren't really sitting close enough to appreciate the higher resolution of Blu-ray.

How do you measure up on this chart? http://s3.carltonbale.com/resolution_chart.html
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post #3037 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twotoned View Post

I just received the bd55. I want to continue to use my onkyo dvd player and run the panny and the onkyo through my onkyo 705. Can I do this & what would the best settings be? Thanks!

If you are using HDMI there is np. see link below.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post12162401

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post #3038 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sroberts1220 View Post

Scott - So what do you think of the HD audio formats? I also have the Denon 3805 and just got the BD55 set up last night and have been experimenting between the bitstream DTS and DD and switching to the analog setup for the lossless formats.

I have a 5803, which, I believe, has the same basic functions as the 3805. The lossless formats are fantastic. I dare say the excellence of the audio equals that of the picture. I just use analog inputs for everything. I see little point in switching back and forth. Enjoy your new player!

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post #3039 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boylan13 View Post

Secondary Audio On/Off will never generate lossy audio over the ANALOG outputs which is what the original poster is talking about using for Blu-ray. Bitstream for DVD output over S/PDIF, and the Analog outputs for BD.

For analog output, the player has to expand to PCM anyway in order to mix in the secondary audio and menu clicks sound but this does not sacrifice the lossless audio.

The only place it gets a little tricky is if you have a 7.1-ch speaker setup. If you have a 7.1-ch set-up, then the Secondary Audio ON/OFF switch does make a difference for Dolby and PCM 7.1-channel material, even over the ANALOG outputs (oddly enough it is NOT a problem for 7.1-ch DTS-HD content). With secondary audio ON and native 7.1-ch Dolby or PCM content, the player will lose the rear channels (putting out only 5.1) if it detects secondary audio or menu clicks in the stream. It needs the channels for mixing in the secondary audio sound with the main soundtrack.

If you're using a 5.1-channel configuration, then there's nothing to worry about. But if you're using 7.1 channels, and watching Dolby or PCM 7.1 movies, and these titles use menu click sounds or you enable the PiP BonusView content, then bye bye rear speakers unless you set secondary audio to OFF.

I think they could have made this more complicated. No, actually I take that back. It would have been difficult to make this more complicated than it is.

-CB

Yes a bit complicated but good for folk with 5.1 systems as it allows them to keep secondary audio on and never have to remember to go into movie to turn secondary on or off.

Can you not disable clicks in disc menu and if so will it play 7.1 for PCM tracks? Not aware of any Dolby TrueHD 7.1 titles anyway so probably not a big deal there but would like PCM to work on my 7.1 system .

Will play with it later today as I am picking up player and see if I can get it to work with PCM (have 3:10 to Yuma which is pcm 7.1) and see if I can get it to work by turning "button clicks" off from the menu.

Cheers,

Bryan
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post #3040 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 05:38 PM
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How do you get 4:4:4 with the Panasonic 55? I was checking HDMI input data on my Denon 3808 receiver and it shows Panasonic 55 outputting 4:2:2. PS3 was showing 4:4:4 through the same receiver.

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post #3041 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 05:43 PM
 
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Originally Posted by chripuck View Post

On the note of the Harmony remotes, what's the best bang for the buck (Under 150 preferrable?)

It'd be controlling a Panny 55, Denon AVR-488, Motorola Cable Box and a Sammy DLP...

Has anyone been able to get directly to the subtitle menu using their Harmony on the BD35?
I'm using the BD30's codes as others have recommended but can only get to the subtitle submenu thru the main menu button and this requires several steps. I've upgraded from a Samsung 5000 universal player to the BD35 and the same Harmony was able to get the subtitles displayed with a single click on the Samsung.
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post #3042 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 06:03 PM
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Anyone interested in a special deal on the bd 35 may want to check Sears online for a price with additional discount deal that expires 6:00 am tomorrow (or use it for a price match). Just a heads up. Price details are posted on the deals thread.
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post #3043 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boylan13 View Post

Correct about the PZ85, but not about the 120 Hz LCD generalization. The PZ85 accepts 24p but converts it internally to 60Hz. The PZ800 and many Pioneer plasmas properly support 24p content at a multiple of 24 (Panasonic 2X, Pioneer 3X).

But most 120 Hz LCD TVs *do not* do 5:5 pulldown. They internally convert 24P to 60Hz then double it. There are a few exceptions but they are the exception, not the rule. Judder reduction on a 120Hz set is only effective if the set does 5:5 pulldown and displays 24p natively at 120 Hz.

-CB

I get ya. For sure. What I was trying to illustrate is that the many of TV's people buy do not simply stop doing 3:2 when sent a 24p signal. My question is still which does better 3:2 processing. The BD35 or my PZ85u. Not sure anyone is going to know the answer to that and possible they are about the same. For now I am letting the player do it.

I guess I should clarify on the PZ800 and my flicker comment. The US version is reported to do 2:2 @48Hz when fed 24P (as you have pointed out above). This flickers and people might need to stick with 60 Hz.

CNET - We tested the Panasonic's "24p direct in" mode by setting it to 48Hz and switching our PS3 to 1080p/24 mode. After doing so, the first thing we noticed was significant flicker, which was most obvious in brighter areas of the picture, such as the overcast sky or sun-scorched desert hardpan, but was present throughout. The flicker made the image basically unwatchable, and we much preferred the look of standard 60Hz mode (3:2 Pulldown from 24P)

http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-t...l?tag=txt;page

List of TV's that actually deliver 24P at multiples without 3:2 ...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=997138
http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=5155

Panasonic 42" Plasma TH42-PZ85U
Panasonic Blueray Player DMP-BD35
Sony 5.1 Home Theater DAV-HDX475 (wish it was Panasonic but it's ok)
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post #3044 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chripuck View Post

My Samsung DLP shows 24Hz when I have 24p selected and 60Hz when I have 60p selected. How am I still using 3:2 if the TV is outputting at 24Hz?

Sorry I did not mean to exclude DLP's in that statement I made.

C.

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post #3045 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolls-Royce View Post

You aren't creating a different color space, C. 4:2:0 is used for storage only, to encode color in order to save space on the disk on SD DVD and HD DVD/Blu-Ray. All players resample the color information and output 4:2:2 (HDMI or RGB) or 4:4:4 (HDMI). One of the results with players that incorrectly do this is the infamous "CUE", or "Chroma Upsampling Error". Check the Secrets of Home Theater website for a good background article on this.

I'll have to look into that.

I was just posting what Clint DeBoer (Editor-in-Chief of Audioholics) had written about the subject of x.v.Color. 8Bit, 10bit and beyond support on these TV's and players. http://www.audioholics.com/tweaks/ca...vels-xvycc-rgb

So if all there is on the disk is 8bit color (4:2:0), we can still re-create 10bit or somehow extract 10 bit color data from 8 bit color data?

The reason this sounds wierd to me is I thought it was like compression. Where you crunch down a WAV format from a CD to an MP3. As soon as that data is gone it cannot be brought back by simply converting that MP3 back to WAV. The data that was thrown out in the compression process is now gone forever.

I'll seek out that article. Thanks for the lead. I like this tech stuff.

In the mean time. I am glad that the player is 4:2:2 capable.

C.

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post #3046 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boylan13 View Post

And *most* 120Hz LCD TVs do the 2:3 frame insertion and double to 120Hz. they do not support 24Hz natively by multiplying it times five (5:5 pulldown).

The main benefit of 120Hz processing on an LCD TV is usually not to eliminate judder but to eliminate motion smear which is something else entirely.

I don't know about most, but there are at least 25 models, not including sizes, that correctly refresh 1080p/24 to 120 without going to 60hz first from Sony, Samsung, Toshiba, Hitachi, Mitsubishi, Nuvision, etc. Unfortunately, there are also quite a few that do apply frame insertion with whatever the specific manufacturer wants to call it. With it set to off on these models, the frames are repeated to get to 120hz. And of course some are better than others,

S~

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post #3047 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvearl View Post

I get ya. For sure. What I was trying to illustrate is that the many of TV's people buy do not simply stop doing 3:2 when sent a 24p signal. My question is still which does better 3:2 processing. The BD35 or my PZ85u. Not sure anyone is going to know the answer to that and possible they are about the same.

I guess I should clarify on the PZ800 and my flicker comment. The US version is reported to do 2:2 @48Hz when fed 24P. This flickers and people might need to stick with 60 Hz.

CNET - We tested the Panasonic's "24p direct in" mode by setting it to 48Hz and switching our PS3 to 1080p/24 mode. After doing so, the first thing we noticed was significant flicker, which was most obvious in brighter areas of the picture, such as the overcast sky or sun-scorched desert hardpan, but was present throughout. The flicker made the image basically unwatchable, and we much preferred the look of standard 60Hz mode

http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-t...l?tag=txt;page

List of TV's that actually deliver 24P at multiples without 3:2 ...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=997138
http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=5155

Yeah, I know about the 48Hz Cinema Mode on that series - we reviewed the PZ800 too. But personally I found the flicker pretty easy to get used to once you settle in for a movie in a darkened room. But it is a personal preference.

I have the Pioneer PDP-5020FD in right now and it does 24p @ 72Hz but I haven't gotten to that yet.

-CB

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post #3048 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvearl View Post

I'll have to look into that.

I was just posting what Clint DeBoer (Editor-in-Chief of Audioholics) had written about the subject of x.v.Color. 8Bit, 10bit and beyond support on these TV's and players. http://www.audioholics.com/tweaks/ca...vels-xvycc-rgb

So if all there is on the disk is 8bit color (4:2:0), we can still re-create 10bit or somehow extract 10 bit color data from 8 bit color data?

The reason this sounds wierd to me is I thought it was like compression. Where you crunch down a WAV format from a CD to an MP3. As soon as that data is gone it cannot be brought back by simply converting that MP3 back to WAV. The data that was thrown out in the compression process is now gone forever.

I'll seek out that article. Thanks for the lead. I like this tech stuff.

In the mean time. I am glad that the player is 4:2:2 capable.

C.

They even talked about this in a roundabout way in DVE HD Basics. Remember, in the "HD in Depth" chapter, they mentioned that the Y channel was encoded at full resolution, while the Cb and Cr channels were encoded at half resolution.

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post #3049 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teachsac View Post

I don't know about most, but there are at least 25 models, not including sizes, that correctly refresh 1080p/24 to 120 without going to 60hz first from Sony, Samsung, Toshiba, Hitachi, Mitsubishi, Nuvision, etc. Unfortunately, there are also quite a few that do apply frame insertion with whatever the specific manufacturer wants to call it. With it set to off on these models, the frames are repeated to get to 120hz. And of course some are better than others,

S~

Certainly more than there were last year, but still these are mostly high end models that do it (like Sony's XBR line), while 120 Hz is offered on many entry level sets now, even from "off-brands." And the entry level 120 Hz offerings of many of the vendors you mention do not do native 24p support with 5:5 processing.

I'm not going to sit and count up model numbers, just going by what I've seen in person at CEDIA and CES as well as vendor's line shows.

Many people assume that a set that has a 120 Hz feature automatically supports 24p content better than a set that does not have a 120Hz mode, and it's not a safe assumption to make.

Plus, as you've said, the way that different vendors actually handle 120Hz mode varies considerably. In side by side demos I've seen, the JVC 120Hz TVs with ClearMotionDrive III eliminate motion smear and handle judder extremely well (and quickly!) vs. competitive sets. But this processing is only available in JVC's top model LCD TVs.

Like anything else, 120 Hz is just a number and not a magic bullet that's going to make one set look better than another.

My two cents...

-CB

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post #3050 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 07:54 PM
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Price needs to drop to 199 on the BD35 so I can pick 2 of these up for relatives for XMAS... I really like the auto-update feature for those who are not technically inclined.
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post #3051 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 07:57 PM
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This week I just got a Panasonic DMP-BD35 and I'm having a problem with BD Live.

I suppose this question has been asked somewhere in the 100 plus pages of posts.... but,

I can't get the BD Live function to work. I've tried it with two discs, Ironman & Sleeping Beauty. I get the message, no network connection.... but I have a network connection. I know this by trying the network connection test, and it passes every time. I also have set the BD Live content option set to ALL & I have the latest Panasonic firmware installed (1.5) via the network connection.

I'm stumped? Anybody any ideas? Thank you.
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post #3052 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 08:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VeloRandy View Post

This week I just got a Panasonic DMP-BD35 and I'm having a problem with BD Live.

I suppose this question has been asked somewhere in the 100 plus pages of posts.... but,

I can't get the BD Live function to work. I've tried it with two discs, Ironman & Sleeping Beauty. I get the message, no network connection.... but I have a network connection. I know this by trying the network connection test, and it passes every time. I also have set the BD Live content option set to ALL & I have the latest Panasonic firmware installed (1.5) via the network connection.

I'm stumped? Anybody any ideas? Thank you.

Do you have an SD card inserted in the player?

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post #3053 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 08:11 PM
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No, Hmmm. I suppose that's in the manual huh? Better go back and read it. Thanks.
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post #3054 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 08:20 PM
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After a quick look at the owners manual, it doesn't state that a SD card is needed for BD Live content.

This is all new to me.... so I'm not sure why I'd get a no network connection because there isn't a SD card present?
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post #3055 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 08:22 PM
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Not sure about the manual.

However, Since the BD35 doesn't have any internal memory, you have to insert an SD card in order to download BD-Live content. The SD card needs to be a minimum of 1GB.

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post #3056 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 08:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VeloRandy View Post

This week I just got a Panasonic DMP-BD35 and I'm having a problem with BD Live.
I suppose this question has been asked somewhere in the 100 plus pages of posts.... but,
I can't get the BD Live function to work. I've tried it with two discs, Ironman & Sleeping Beauty. I get the message, no network connection.... but I have a network connection. I know this by trying the network connection test, and it passes every time. I also have set the BD Live content option set to ALL & I have the latest Panasonic firmware installed (1.5) via the network connection.
I'm stumped? Anybody any ideas? Thank you.

The one thing you neglected to mention is whether you have an SD card installed. It's required for BD Live.
Assuming you have an SD card installed, one other forum member was unable to connect with his BD35 until he updated the firmware on his Linksys router.

EDIT: I see I was a little late with my post.

to each his own...
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post #3057 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 08:37 PM
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Thank you very much, that did!
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post #3058 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvearl View Post

I get ya. For sure. What I was trying to illustrate is that the many of TV's people buy do not simply stop doing 3:2 when sent a 24p signal. My question is still which does better 3:2 processing. The BD35 or my PZ85u. Not sure anyone is going to know the answer to that and possible they are about the same. For now I am letting the player do it.

I guess I should clarify on the PZ800 and my flicker comment. The US version is reported to do 2:2 @48Hz when fed 24P (as you have pointed out above). This flickers and people might need to stick with 60 Hz.

CNET - We tested the Panasonic's "24p direct in" mode by setting it to 48Hz and switching our PS3 to 1080p/24 mode. After doing so, the first thing we noticed was significant flicker, which was most obvious in brighter areas of the picture, such as the overcast sky or sun-scorched desert hardpan, but was present throughout. The flicker made the image basically unwatchable, and we much preferred the look of standard 60Hz mode (3:2 Pulldown from 24P)

http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-t...l?tag=txt;page

List of TV's that actually deliver 24P at multiples without 3:2 ...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=997138
http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=5155

I have a 46PZ800 and found the 24p/48hz flicker really objectionable at first and changed to 60hz. Then I decided to see if I might habituate to the flicker if I watched for a while. It is true the flicker is much more evident in light colors and almost undetectable in dark scenes. The first film I watched, I stopped noticing the flicker within about 10 minutes or so. Since then, I notice the flicker for a few seconds at the beginning of a film and then completely forget about it and just enjoy.

The point here is that our neurological makeup includes the very necessary ability to habituate to repetitive, irrelevant stimuli. The flicker is basically repetitive, irrelevant stimuli and our nervous system just tunes it out after a short time. The only reason one notices it at all at the beginning of a film is because it's new/relevant again as regular tv viewing is not 24p/48hz and has no flicker. I'm surprised the CNET people didn't understand this and try it.
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post #3059 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 09:18 PM
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I have a BD55 that is connected via the 5.1 outputs to the 6-channel (5.1) analog input of my Yamaha RX-V1300. Levels have been set with a sound-meter. The issue I am having is that I am not receiving ANY sound from the subwoofer. The speakers are KEF Q-series with the matching KEF PSW2500 sub.

From reading posts on here, I understand that the LFE channel on the player's decoder is about 10 to 15db lower than the mains. The suggested solution in other posts has been to increase the sub setting an additional 10db to 15db.

THe RX-V1300 only has sub setting from -20 to 0db. The Mains have -10db or normal setting. I have tried using the -10db setting for the mains. I have also adjusted the other speakers to -10db and have the subwoofer setting at 0db. The 6-CH setting has also been configured to direct LFE to the subwoofer (the other option is direct LFE to MAINS).

On the DB55, I have set the MAIN speakers to -6db (the lowest setting allowed) and set the levels for center and surround speakers with the sound-level meter. Again subwoofer is set at 0db (the highest setting).

With these settings I have no sound from the subwoofer. I have experimented with some other settings on the Yamaha but still no luck.

Does anyone have any ideas on how to configure the DB55 and RXV1300 so that sound comes from the subwoofer?
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post #3060 of 14982 Old 11-16-2008, 09:28 PM
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I just tried to play back some JPEGS from a disk and got "unsupported disk". I knew that the files were OK and within spec for my BD35, but they were on a DVD+R disk. After looking in detail at the manual, it seems it can only show pictures from CDs, DVD-RAM, or BD-RE disks! So I burned a few .jpg's on a CD-RW and they played fine -- well slowly, but they worked. Also I successfully played JPEGS from an SD card. Has anyone else tested this to confirm the same behavior? Anyone tested DVD-R (I didn't have any to test) or BD-RE? It sure seems odd that JPEG playback functionality works on all media EXCEPT DVD's. If this is the case, does anyone know the procedure for recommending that this be considered for a future firmware update?
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