Official OPPO BDP-103 Owner's Thread - Page 46 - AVS Forum
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post #1351 of 17634 Old 10-25-2012, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by gsr View Post

Or not, since you're here bragging about it wink.gif. If you have something useful to contribute to this thread, please do so as I'm sure it would be appreciated. But what you've been contributing so far is only going to cause confusion and isn't helping anyone other than perhaps your own ego. I apologize if this comes across as overly harsh, but we're here (in a fast moving, high traffic thread) to help people with the firmware that's available from Oppo - it may be more appropriate to start your own thread (if the moderators will allow it) if you want to discuss custom firmware and/or mods that aren't generally available to avoid confusion.

Indeed you're right. Soon you'll enjoy my "work" for BDP9x I just need some time. When BDP9x life cycle is over at Oppo.
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post #1352 of 17634 Old 10-25-2012, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by adidino View Post

Richie - Nothing but animals on this thread. smile.gif
But seriously... I would get your screen/display situated first. Once you did that...
HDMI cable from the projector to your AVR (HDMI OUT from the AVR to HDMI in your projector)
all your source components (Oppo bluray, cable box, etc.. HDMI IN into your AVR.
That's a basic setup.
There are other options and combinations but I would start there.
Depending on your viewing habits, you need to decide which source component you want to start with and make that your reference as far as settings. I would use the Oppo for that personally.
This isn't really related to this thread at all but PM me if you want and I'll guide you to the right thread.

Thank you acknowledging my existance, Adidino... I'll admit I probably overreacted with my post. My apologies to everyone for that. Now, since you mentioned it...

Re; Your reply

BOLD A. - If you had read my original/correct post, you'd know that's the connection I DID know about, since I've used those connection parameters since the advent of HDMI and AVR passthrough. My question was since the Oppo has the better processor/upscaling, would I be better served running the Oppo #1 port direct to the PJ along with the standard connection through the AVR? Or, was there a way to run all through the AVR and somehow have the Oppo bypass the Pioneer processor? Sounds like a simple question to me (if -in fact - I DID know this field).

BOLD B. - It's a question about the Oppo BD-103 Player setup. Tell me where I should post that and I'll go there (don't say it wink.gif ). I actually originally posted a similar question in the "Audio Chat and Whatever Theory" forum, which was answered, but didn't cover my issue. Either my question wasn't phrased right or it was misunderstood - likely the former.

Thanks again
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post #1353 of 17634 Old 10-25-2012, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Doug Blackburn View Post

The other thing you want to be aware of... if you send analog from the Oppo, and the Lexicon does ANY processing at all, the Lexicon will convert the analog input to digital, do the processing, then convert the sound back to analog for output to your loudspeakers. Analog to digital conversion tends to not sound as good as digital to analog conversion, though in the last couple of years, the gap is closing, But the older the Lexicon is, the more noticeable the loss of fidelity during analog-to-digital conversion. The best scenario if you are committed to analog audio from the disc player to the processor is for the processor to be in pass-through mode (no processing of any kind) and use the disc player menu to do all the processing so you avoid additional conversion and unnecessary processing steps.
Assuming he has an original Lexicon MC-12, not the "newer" MC-12 HD that added HDMI inputs (LPCM only, no support for HD audio bitstreams), his options are 5.1 analog input to the MC-12 or use an optical or coax digital input on the MC-12. Even though it's pretty old now, the MC-12 does a pretty good job converting analog to digital, applying processing, and then converting back to analog for output. So his best option probably IS to use the analog outputs from the Oppo into his MC-12 whether he's using the digital processing in the MC-12 or just passing it through to his amps with no processing.
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post #1354 of 17634 Old 10-25-2012, 12:20 PM
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I have been using a HTPC setup with my current Sony 60" set to play SD DVDs ripped to hard drives. I use a vdseo card with an HDMI output to the TV throught my Rotel Pre-Pro. This setup has been working well for me. I watch a lot of old TV shows and I like the fact that I can use can adjust the size of the picture on my media player software for some content that looks bad at big screen size. I have a new 80" and 103 on their way to me. I think the Oppo will be really important for PQ on that size screen.

My question is would I be ebtter off pushing the DVD files to the Oppo, or running my HDMI output from the HTPC through one of the HDMI inputs on the 103? I would think it may not make a difference, but I am not sure.
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post #1355 of 17634 Old 10-25-2012, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by EDDIEB33 View Post

I have everything pretty much hooked up HDMI. I have my HTPC going to my receiver by HDMI, HDMI2 from Oppo to my receiver, HDMI 1 from my Oppo to my TV. And I believe a toslink cable from my receiver to my TV for audio because there was something with the LNA55950 setup is how I had to do it. So is there other options to get better Audio from the Oppo? Cause from the way I have it now it doesn't seem to sound any more amazing than my Jriver program.
If you're using HDMI for everything, there's no reason you should expect the audio to be better from the Oppo than from your HTPC (or from some other standalone Blu-ray player for that matter) as the digital to analog conversion is happening in your receiver for everything. There are 2 cases where you would definitely expect to hear differences. The first is if your PC is converting the sample rate - for example, there are cases where 44.1khz streams get converted to 48khz and that can definitely have an effect on sound quality (but J River shouldn't be doing this unless you explicitly configured it to). The other is if you were using the analog outputs from the Oppo and analog outputs from a sound card on the HTPC (either the sound card integrated in the motherboard or a separate sound card) as in that case you'd be comparing the digital to analog conversion in the Oppo to the digital to analog conversion in your HTPC and it's quite likely there would be non-trivial differences there.
Quote:
I haven't tried the DLNA and JRiver capability yet, mainly because I never used DLNA before. But just playing random SD-DVD's and mkv files from a HD thru my HTPC using Jriver and other programs, vs using the OPPO, I don't see any better upconverting from the OPPO an in some cases it looks worse than playing it thru Jriver and my HTPC.
confused.gif You said "Plus you cant seem to use XBMC or Jriver as a better upfront GUI push to the OPPO, well not yet anyways", which implies you tried it and it didn't work. It's definitely something you'll want to try, as it definitely gives you options for selecting music without turning your TV / projector on to see what you're doing.
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post #1356 of 17634 Old 10-25-2012, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Bill, I suspect you've not understood how DSD-Direct-to-Analog conversion works. When using DSD, no audio processing is possible. So your Crossover setting is being ignored. I.e., when you use DSD the player acts AS IF all of your speakers are set to Large, and equidistant, and with no down-mixing. (If you play the 5.1 layer with less than 5.1 speakers wired, then the content for the missing speakers is discarded -- not down-mixed into the remaining speakers.)
So when you play the 2.0 layer of an SACD with DSD engaged, the Subwoofer output will be silent. If your front speakers are not truly full range -- that is if they really do need that Subwoofer support underneath them -- then you will hear anemic bass.
When you play the 5.1 layer of an SACD with DSD engaged, the ONLY content that goes to the Subwoofer output is LFE channel content. Once again, no Crossover processing is happening in the player. If your 5 main speakers NEED Subwoofer support underneath, then you will hear anemic bass because that is not happening. In addition, many studios author their SACDs to have *NOTHING* in the LFE channel of the 5.1 layer (due to the spec confusion for SACD which I mentioned above). So if you are playing an SACD from a studio like that, even the 5.1 layer will produce no output on your Subwoofer.
The last issue is Subwoofer channel boost. For your 83SE, the multi-channel Analog Subwoofer output needs +15dB boost, external to the player, to match the other Analog outputs. +10dB of that comes from the standard method of recording LFE -10dB low to allow headroom for *LOUD* bass. The other +5dB of that comes from attenuation applied to insure headroom if bass is being steered into the Subwoofer output channel from any Small speaker channels (i.e., Crossover processing). This boost level is true regardless of what you are playing on the Analog outputs and applies whether or not DSD is engaged.
The 103/105 handle this somewhat differently.
1) If ALL SPEAKERS ARE EITHER Large OR Off -- i.e., if no Crossover processing is happening -- then the multi-channel Analog Subwoofer output needs +10dB boost external to the player. This is the standard adjustment for LFE. (Speakers not in use due to application of the down-mix setting are treated as "OFF".) This is true regardless of what you are playing.
2) If any speakers are Small, then the Subwoofer output needs +15dB boost external to the player. For the same reasons noted above. Again, this is true regardless of what you are playing.
In the 103/105, when DSD-Direct-to-Analog Conversion is in effect, all speakers are treated as Large, so (1) applies. I.e., +10dB boost is needed. But again, the only content that will actually come out on the Subwoofer output in that case is LFE channel content from the 5.1 layer of SACDs actually authored to even have anything in the LFE channel. No Crossover processing happens. In particular, when you play the 2.0 layer of an SACD (using DSD), the Analog Subwoofer output will be silent.
Using DSD-Direct-to-Analog Conversion is not for the feint of heart.
--Bob

Bob,

I'm aware that when using DSD Direct no processing is applied. I should have mentioned that when I was doing the DSD to PCM comparison with the 83SE and the 4311 I was not using DSD Direct. In other words the DSD signal was being converted to PCM by the 4311 and I was still seeing low bass issues. When I set the 83SE to PCM the bass levels were much higher and the levels seemed correct. All the levels were checked with a Radio Shack SPL meter with only my sub playing. I realize that using the DSD setting in the Oppo to then convert the signal to PCM at the 4311 defeats the purpose of using the DSD setting. I did it this way to make it a simple comparsion with the only differences being the change of the DSD/PCM setting on the 83SE. I'm sure the reason for the bass level differences is due to the incorrect boost applied. I decided that the PCM setting will be fine and see no need to use the DSD setting.

Bill

My SACD collection, watch it grow and my wallet shrink ;-).

 

Denon 4311 (in preamp mode), Parasound 2100, Boston Acoustics A7200 amp, Oppo BDP-103, Consonance CD120, Panasonic TC-P60GT50 plasma, Panamax 5100EX, Salk Song Towers, Song Center, ADS 300C (surrounds) and two Rythmik F12SEs.
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post #1357 of 17634 Old 10-25-2012, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by richieprimo View Post

. . . .

Thank you acknowledging my existance, Adidino... I'll admit I probably overreacted with my post. My apologies to everyone for that. Now, since you mentioned it...

Re; Your reply

BOLD A. - If you had read my original/correct post, you'd know that's the connection I DID know about, since I've used those connection parameters since the advent of HDMI and AVR passthrough. My question was since the Oppo has the better processor/upscaling, would I be better served running the Oppo #1 port direct to the PJ along with the standard connection through the AVR? Or, was there a way to run all through the AVR and somehow have the Oppo bypass the Pioneer processor? Sounds like a simple question to me (if -in fact - I DID know this field).

BOLD B. - It's a question about the Oppo BD-103 Player setup. Tell me where I should post that and I'll go there (don't say it wink.gif ). I actually originally posted a similar question in the "Audio Chat and Whatever Theory" forum, which was answered, but didn't cover my issue. Either my question wasn't phrased right or it was misunderstood - likely the former.

Thanks again

Timing plays a part in this too. When a player gets released and new firmware comes out, posts are easily missed, particularly when there isn't a simple answer. Patience is a virtue and all that -- along with asking again, politely of course.

For (A): Most modern AVRs won't actually do anything to the video if the input and output formats are the same and you haven't enabled any of their "enhancement" processing. What this means is that for most folks, if you use 1080p output from the player, then the player has already done all the heavy lifting, your AVR has no additional work to do, and so you can safely pass the video through the AVR. You can certainly conceive of cases where a bug in the AVR implementation -- or perhaps a particularly confusing settings choice in the AVR -- might screw that up, but MOST folks using the OPPO players send both audio and video through their AVR without suffering any video degradation. Nevertheless, since you are just setting things up now, it is useful to allow for both styles of cabling. Then you can check for yourself (when you get the chance) to see if you can spot a reason to prefer one cabling over the other. In addition, if you run into a problem, having the alternate form of cabling available may let you confirm what's producing the problem, or provide a temporary workaround until you can get the problem fixed.

For (B): There used to be a Forum here for folks seeking advice on how to set up and get things going in their home theater -- the sorts of questions you were asking about what to bring up first for example. But I've not checked to see if that Forum still exists after all the recent changes here. The basic rule of thumb is to use as few pieces of your system as possible to get going with each piece. So for example, a projector will usually be able to produce ITS OWN alignment charts that you can use for confirming pointing, level, orientation, and focus. Use those built-in tools before worrying about getting video going from a Source device. Similarly, your AVR likely has built in test tones for verifying the wiring basics for your speakers, as well as volume levels. So often the first Source you want to show through your projector will be the built-in menus of the AVR so you can do that. Then pick one Source device -- such as the OPPO -- and use that for going to the next steps of setup.

Getting things set up "just right" can be a daunting task. Some folks really enjoy that challenge, but it does take patience. The advantage is that the more you do yourself, the better you know your own system. Then, even if you do hire a calibration tech to come with special tools and adjust things for you, you'll be in a better position to appreciate what he's done -- i.e., what you just paid for.
--Bob

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post #1358 of 17634 Old 10-25-2012, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Mac View Post

Bob,

I should have mentioned that when I was doing the DSD to PCM comparison with the 83SE and the 4311 I was not using DSD Direct. In other words the DSD signal was being converted to PCM by the 4311 and I was still seeing low bass issues. When I set the 83SE to PCM the bass levels were much higher and the levels seemed correct. All the levels were checked with a Radio Shack SPL meter with only my sub playing. I realize that using the DSD setting in the Oppo to then convert the signal to PCM at the 4311 defeats the purpose of using the DSD setting. I did it this way to make it a simple comparsion with the only differences being the change of the DSD/PCM setting on the 83SE. I'm sure the reason for the bass level differences is due to the incorrect boost applied. I decided that the PCM setting will be fine and see no need to use the DSD setting.

Bill

OK, obviously I was speaking to what happens when the OPPO players do the job -- use of their Analog outputs. Sounds like there's either a bug in the 4311 or Denon has found yet another way to make their settings confusing. biggrin.gif
--Bob

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post #1359 of 17634 Old 10-25-2012, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Raylinds View Post

I have been using a HTPC setup with my current Sony 60" set to play SD DVDs ripped to hard drives. I use a vdseo card with an HDMI output to the TV throught my Rotel Pre-Pro. This setup has been working well for me. I watch a lot of old TV shows and I like the fact that I can use can adjust the size of the picture on my media player software for some content that looks bad at big screen size. I have a new 80" and 103 on their way to me. I think the Oppo will be really important for PQ on that size screen.

My question is would I be ebtter off pushing the DVD files to the Oppo, or running my HDMI output from the HTPC through one of the HDMI inputs on the 103? I would think it may not make a difference, but I am not sure.

Bugs aside, it shouldn't make a difference. (There are still some issues being worked on the HDMI inputs.) But when you get the player, try it both ways and tell us what you see!
--Bob

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post #1360 of 17634 Old 10-25-2012, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Timing plays a part in this too. When a player gets released and new firmware comes out, posts are easily missed, particularly when there isn't a simple answer. Patience is a virtue and all that -- along with asking again, politely of course.
For (A): Most modern AVRs won't actually do anything to the video if the input and output formats are the same and you haven't enabled any of their "enhancement" processing. What this means is that for most folks, if you use 1080p output from the player, then the player has already done all the heavy lifting, your AVR has no additional work to do, and so you can safely pass the video through the AVR. You can certainly conceive of cases where a bug in the AVR implementation -- or perhaps a particularly confusing settings choice in the AVR -- might screw that up, but MOST folks using the OPPO players send both audio and video through their AVR without suffering any video degradation. Nevertheless, since you are just setting things up now, it is useful to allow for both styles of cabling. Then you can check for yourself (when you get the chance) to see if you can spot a reason to prefer one cabling over the other. In addition, if you run into a problem, having the alternate form of cabling available may let you confirm what's producing the problem, or provide a temporary workaround until you can get the problem fixed.
For (B): There used to be a Forum here for folks seeking advice on how to set up and get things going in their home theater -- the sorts of questions you were asking about what to bring up first for example. But I've not checked to see if that Forum still exists after all the recent changes here. The basic rule of thumb is to use as few pieces of your system as possible to get going with each piece. So for example, a projector will usually be able to produce ITS OWN alignment charts that you can use for confirming pointing, level, orientation, and focus. Use those built-in tools before worrying about getting video going from a Source device. Similarly, your AVR likely has built in test tones for verifying the wiring basics for your speakers, as well as volume levels. So often the first Source you want to show through your projector will be the built-in menus of the AVR so you can do that. Then pick one Source device -- such as the OPPO -- and use that for going to the next steps of setup.
Getting things set up "just right" can be a daunting task. Some folks really enjoy that challenge, but it does take patience. The advantage is that the more you do yourself, the better you know your own system. Then, even if you do hire a calibration tech to come with special tools and adjust things for you, you'll be in a better position to appreciate what he's done -- i.e., what you just paid for.
--Bob

there have been known issues of panasonic tvs and onkyo receiver not working well together. that can cause a bit of an overscan. It was oppo that pointed that out to me when I showed them some pictures using the video output from the receiver. I am exepereincing this problem with my oppo 93, onkyo rc270 and the panasonic gt25.

Jacob
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post #1361 of 17634 Old 10-25-2012, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by HDPERSON View Post

Welcome to the AVS forum, You can get the same Blu ray picture off the LG 620, Sony 790 or Panasonic 220. Dvd upconversion of the Sony and Panasonic are the same as Oppo, while the LG is a liitle less. If you wish to Play BD and DVD, perhaps you would be better off going to the cheaper models. I was going to buy the Oppo, but all the firmware, problems and over expense, I just don't see the point. Other players don't receive as much company related support as Oppo on this forum!?.
However if you wish to have a player built like a tank, then Oppo is for you.

Hi and thanks for the reply and welcome. The main reason I bought the Oppo was based on what I've read from owners of the 93 and the company in general. The important thing to me was the claim that it's superior to the others at upscaling, specifically DVD's. I realize there isn't any magical formula to make an older film look extremely better - unless you're talking UCLA Film Preservation, some of whose best work is part of my collection - but until more older films are remastered and brought to market, any improvement in PQ is a feather in this viewers cap. No one really knows what forms of media we'll be using in the future, so for now as long as the Oppo isn't inferior to the competition, I'll take it for now on build quality alone.

I'm a speculator from way back, so after reading some peoples' concerns on these forums, a couple days ago I made a deal to purchase 3 NIB Oppo BD-93 units at $1,200 for the trio. If I'm unhappy with the 103, maybe the 93 will work out better - if I like the 103, maybe I make a little profit on the 93's to offset the higher-than-average cost of the 103. If I'm wrong about my speculation, at worst I have a nice, solid player for my bedroom and vacation home. Either way... everyone walks away happy. smile.gif

Thanks for the reply and greeting. Have a nice weekend.

Rich
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post #1362 of 17634 Old 10-25-2012, 01:15 PM
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I am trying to evaluate Asset Upnp and J River for streaming FLAC files only to my OPPO. Asset Upnp shows up in the OPPO as well as J River but Asset has empty folders. Is Asset a data base only and needs a frontend or player of some sort to be loaded on my Windows 7 PC? I believe Stylin or GSR uses one of these as well.
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post #1363 of 17634 Old 10-25-2012, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by davehale View Post

I am trying to evaluate Asset Upnp and J River for streaming FLAC files only to my OPPO. Asset Upnp shows up in the OPPO as well as J River but Asset has empty folders. Is Asset a data base only and needs a frontend or player of some sort to be loaded on my Windows 7 PC? I believe Stylin or GSR uses one of these as well.
Dave

You can play those files directly using SMB and eliminate the DNLA server entirely.
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post #1364 of 17634 Old 10-25-2012, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by gsr View Post

Assuming he has an original Lexicon MC-12, not the "newer" MC-12 HD that added HDMI inputs (LPCM only, no support for HD audio bitstreams), his options are 5.1 analog input to the MC-12 or use an optical or coax digital input on the MC-12. Even though it's pretty old now, the MC-12 does a pretty good job converting analog to digital, applying processing, and then converting back to analog for output. So his best option probably IS to use the analog outputs from the Oppo into his MC-12 whether he's using the digital processing in the MC-12 or just passing it through to his amps with no processing.
Correct.

The Oppo BDP-103's analog audio is connected to the original Lexicon MC-12 with the Oppo's speakers now set to large, and the digital processing via Analog Logic 7 in the MC-12, And it sounds great!
My plan is to eventually replace the 103 with an Oppo 105 for the superior analog section and use the 103 in my theater room where I have an MC-12 HD and where I can use the 103s HDMI audio outs via LPCM.

Paul
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post #1365 of 17634 Old 10-25-2012, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Timing plays a part in this too. When a player gets released and new firmware comes out, posts are easily missed, particularly when there isn't a simple answer. Patience is a virtue and all that -- along with asking again, politely of course.
For (A): Most modern AVRs won't actually do anything to the video if the input and output formats are the same and you haven't enabled any of their "enhancement" processing. What this means is that for most folks, if you use 1080p output from the player, then the player has already done all the heavy lifting, your AVR has no additional work to do, and so you can safely pass the video through the AVR. You can certainly conceive of cases where a bug in the AVR implementation -- or perhaps a particularly confusing settings choice in the AVR -- might screw that up, but MOST folks using the OPPO players send both audio and video through their AVR without suffering any video degradation. Nevertheless, since you are just setting things up now, it is useful to allow for both styles of cabling. Then you can check for yourself (when you get the chance) to see if you can spot a reason to prefer one cabling over the other. In addition, if you run into a problem, having the alternate form of cabling available may let you confirm what's producing the problem, or provide a temporary workaround until you can get the problem fixed.
For (B): There used to be a Forum here for folks seeking advice on how to set up and get things going in their home theater -- the sorts of questions you were asking about what to bring up first for example. But I've not checked to see if that Forum still exists after all the recent changes here. The basic rule of thumb is to use as few pieces of your system as possible to get going with each piece. So for example, a projector will usually be able to produce ITS OWN alignment charts that you can use for confirming pointing, level, orientation, and focus. Use those built-in tools before worrying about getting video going from a Source device. Similarly, your AVR likely has built in test tones for verifying the wiring basics for your speakers, as well as volume levels. So often the first Source you want to show through your projector will be the built-in menus of the AVR so you can do that. Then pick one Source device -- such as the OPPO -- and use that for going to the next steps of setup.
Getting things set up "just right" can be a daunting task. Some folks really enjoy that challenge, but it does take patience. The advantage is that the more you do yourself, the better you know your own system. Then, even if you do hire a calibration tech to come with special tools and adjust things for you, you'll be in a better position to appreciate what he's done -- i.e., what you just paid for.
--Bob

Hello Bob - it's a pleasure to "meet" you

I want to you to know that honesty is a trait I hold dear, and I'm one who speaks his mind, occasionally to a detrimental result. But I tell you this because I want you to know what I say is sincere.

Please understand that my childish "rant" was in no way directed at you. I truly didn't expect an answer from you at that time, as you seemed to be getting bombarded with questions from all angles, which I've noticed in your case is commonplace. Throughout my time spent reading numerous pages on many topics in these forums, I've certainly noticed your willingness and generosity in sharing your knowledge.

Anyway, Bob - I want to thank you for fully understanding what my tech-challenged verbiage apparently couldn't properly articulate, and for explaining it in a manner that a "noob" boob like myself could easily understand. Now I truly understand why people here keep you so busy. You're a true gentleman and thanks again for simplifying things for me. BTW - I certainly don't mean that as a dig at anyone else either, because I was dead wrong for whining at all, since I was the one with the proverbial cup in my hand - or to return to the scene of the analogy - I was "the neighborhood junkie begging for a few bucks for groceries." wink.gif

Seriously though, I hope everyone concerned will accept my apology and understand I'm not the little brat I came of as. I haven't thoroughly read through the pages subsequent to my hissy-fit, but I'll go through them later on to check for anyone else I may have offended and thinks I'm 11 years old. Heck, there's even a slight chance of finding someone who needs my advice on the proper way to connect the Oppo player -- as opposed to every other BD player on Earth... hehehe.

Oh, and thanks again, Bob. I promise not to post and I'll avoid this thread up until my first firmware glitch... just in case, give me your cell number biggrin.gif

Rich
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post #1366 of 17634 Old 10-25-2012, 02:59 PM
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Mine arrived a few hours ago. Setup was easy like doing the 83 over again. Good things: it plays 6.1 audio for the movies coded that way and it plays my m2ts and ts files of movies from a USB connected HD. Those are 2 major reasons I bought it. Only bad thing so far is that it will not play my M4A Itunes music files from a usb stick. Shows the m4a designation. Push play and the arrow cycles down past each of the songs in the album until it gets to last song and will not play any of them. FAQ says it plays m4a. Any ideas? Thanks
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Mine arrived a few hours ago. Setup was easy like doing the 83 over again. Good things: it plays 6.1 audio for the movies coded that way and it plays my m2ts and ts files of movies from a USB connected HD. Those are 2 major reasons I bought it. Only bad thing so far is that it will not play my M4A Itunes music files from a usb stick. Shows the m4a designation. Push play and the arrow cycles down past each of the songs in the album until it gets to last song and will not play any of them. FAQ says it plays m4a. Any ideas? Thanks

M4A is the container; we need to know the codec inside. If it's ALAC you're out of luck.

There is a free utility called "mediainfo". What does it say?

-Bill
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post #1368 of 17634 Old 10-25-2012, 03:35 PM
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rdgrimes,
I guess you are right. I have the 2 little icons in My Network on the OPPO (this must mean SMB or something) and then my H drive will show up ; further navigated to a music folder. The files play like a list. This is all I need to get FLAC going. I am now assuming I need no Player on my PC and just download FLAC files directly to my folder(s). I knew the 103 would be for me. I also just tried out Vudu-awesome, no more buyig Blu-rays. The new Netflex is very much improved and I can now get rid of my AppleTV. Its now just my Denon A100 to airplay itunes, OPPO-103 for everything else and Center speaker for my HT including the Tyler Acoustics tower speakers. These forums allowed me to save a lot of equipment space, time and money. Thanks everyone
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post #1369 of 17634 Old 10-25-2012, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by dsinger View Post

Mine arrived a few hours ago. Setup was easy like doing the 83 over again. Good things: it plays 6.1 audio for the movies coded that way and it plays my m2ts and ts files of movies from a USB connected HD. Those are 2 major reasons I bought it. Only bad thing so far is that it will not play my M4A Itunes music files from a usb stick. Shows the m4a designation. Push play and the arrow cycles down past each of the songs in the album until it gets to last song and will not play any of them. FAQ says it plays m4a. Any ideas? Thanks

Hi, Once you've had time to play, I'd be interested to know your views (or anyone else's) on how the '83 and '103 compare. I have recently bought the 103 and am very happy with it. Someone has just offered me a BDP-83SE NUFORCE as a swap for my 103 and am really tempted as I love the idea of the improved analogue section, and apart from mp4 and FLAC playback not being available on the '83 I'd like to know of anything that might sway my decision. I don't plan to get into 3D until it's glasses free and don't need streaming or internet content.
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post #1370 of 17634 Old 10-25-2012, 03:40 PM
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rdgrimes,
I guess you are right. I have the 2 little icons in My Network on the OPPO (this must mean SMB or something) and then my H drive will show up ;

In the Network screen, shared PCs will show up with the little icon of 2 computers. DNLA servers will show up with their own icons, and WMP has it's little Windows icon. If the share requires a log-in, the player will remember the user name and password for you.
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post #1371 of 17634 Old 10-25-2012, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Wavod View Post

Hi, Once you've had time to play, I'd be interested to know your views (or anyone else's) on how the '83 and '103 compare. I have recently bought the 103 and am very happy with it. Someone has just offered me a BDP-83SE NUFORCE as a swap for my 103 and am really tempted as I love the idea of the improved analogue section, and apart from mp4 and FLAC playback not being available on the '83 I'd like to know of anything that might sway my decision. I don't plan to get into 3D until it's glasses free and don't need streaming or internet content.

Much of what was developed for the 83SE has been incorporated into the 103's analog board, so they will sound VERY similar. The Nuoforce mods don't make a huge difference. The primary difference is the presence of the dedicated stereo output on the 83SE, which WILL have some benefits. But the over-all quality of the analog output on the 103 has thus far been vastly under-rated, I wouldn't rush into getting rid of one.
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post #1372 of 17634 Old 10-25-2012, 03:53 PM
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How have you guys been finding the 103's DACs to be? I've got a Marantz SR8002 and I'm wondering if I may be better off using the Oppo's analog outs instead of HDMI for audio.
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post #1373 of 17634 Old 10-25-2012, 03:54 PM
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Haven't gotten my deck yet, btw, in case anyone wonders why I'm asking here instead of simply trying it out.
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post #1374 of 17634 Old 10-25-2012, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Wavod View Post

Hi, Once you've had time to play, I'd be interested to know your views (or anyone else's) on how the '83 and '103 compare. I have recently bought the 103 and am very happy with it. Someone has just offered me a BDP-83SE NUFORCE as a swap for my 103 and am really tempted as I love the idea of the improved analogue section, and apart from mp4 and FLAC playback not being available on the '83 I'd like to know of anything that might sway my decision. I don't plan to get into 3D until it's glasses free and don't need streaming or internet content.

Keep in mind the 83 is quite a bit slower than the 103. The NUFORCE mods won't alter that. The 83 also has more limited support for media file formats. I strongly suggest you audition the NUFORCE modded player in your setup before committing -- to see if YOU can hear audible improvement from the modded 83 compared to the stock 103.
--Bob
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M4A is the container; we need to know the codec inside. If it's ALAC you're out of luck.
There is a free utility called "mediainfo". What does it say?
-Bill

Bill: Thanks. I will check it out but my guess is ALAC coding.
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post #1376 of 17634 Old 10-25-2012, 04:50 PM
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The product description for the BDP-103 has now appeared on Amazon's page for the player.

There's a cookie available if you spot the errors in that text. biggrin.gif

HINT: Nope, it's not the cable. Amazon got it right this time, and shows the player comes with an HDMI cable.
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post #1377 of 17634 Old 10-25-2012, 04:57 PM
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The product description for the BDP-103 has now appeared on Amazon's page for the player.
There's a cookie available if you spot the errors in that text. biggrin.gif
HINT: Nope, it's not the cable. Amazon got it right this time, and shows the player comes with an HDMI cable.
--Bob

3 USB in's ????? COOKIE!!
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post #1378 of 17634 Old 10-25-2012, 05:02 PM
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Bzzzzzt! Close, but no cookie.

There actually ARE two USB ports on the back and a third one on the front. (Many folks will use one of the two on the back for attaching the Wifi dongle, but it's a general USB port if you would rather use it for something else.)
--Bob

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post #1379 of 17634 Old 10-25-2012, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

The product description for the BDP-103 has now appeared on Amazon's page for the player.
There's a cookie available if you spot the errors in that text. biggrin.gif
HINT: Nope, it's not the cable. Amazon got it right this time, and shows the player comes with an HDMI cable.
--Bob
They list an eSATA port.
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post #1380 of 17634 Old 10-25-2012, 05:20 PM
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They list an eSATA port.

Ding! Ding! Ding! A Winner!

Jocko, give that player a cookie!

There is no eSATA port on the BDP-103, despite that being mentioned TWICE in the Amazon write up.

Now, don't give up yet, folks!

There is at least one more, egregious error in that write up.
--Bob

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