Official OPPO BDP-103 Owner's Thread - Page 58 - AVS Forum
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post #1711 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 06:05 AM
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Thats correct, I was just hoping to get a nice 'all in one' box with a physical transport and BD streaming with menu's smile.gif
A Dune HD Max is the closest I will get I think ..

Thanks for your help..appreciated.
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post #1712 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by wse View Post

Whoa thank you , that is what I was afraid off!
I think I will keep the 95 for a few more years until they support 9.1 and 11.1 analog also include MDA and Dolby Atmos! I can't stand 3D so I don't care about that and I would love 4K but by projector is still really good and I am not looking to upgrade that either so for now I will stay put unless I read that the 105 blow-out the 95 interms of sound but somehow I doubt it, please prove me wrong

Are there any AVRs or PrePro that support this on their analog inputs ("external in" or whatever it may be called)?

Pioneer Elite PRO-151FD

Zektor MAS7.1

Classé CA-2200/CA-5200

Oppo BDP-105, Denon DVD-5910CI, Cambridge 752BD, Cambridge 640C V2

Paradigm Signature S8, Paradigm Signature ADP1

Paradigm Signature ADP3, Paradigm Signature C5

REL R-505 Sub (2)

Oppo BDP-93, BDP-103D, Pioneer BDP-320

Sony BDP-S790

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post #1713 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by blodsbror View Post

Right, so the only way to stream blu-ray rips with menu's, is to stay on the previous firmware. Interesting. I guess, the gods above in DRM land, have some strong influential powers wink.gif
I could also create MKV's, but there is no PGS subtitle support, which is quite necessary for me. And converting from PGS to .SRT is just a pain in the neck. Local media also isn't an option, as I would need around 10TB of external USB storage for all my uncompressed media.
So really, there goes purchasing an Oppo out the window, as streaming is almost more important to me that playing physical discs. Back to XBMC/HTPC then perhaps smile.gif

This has already been discussed, there are other ways to view them using AVCHD folders and shares. Attached storage is another option. Obviously you already have that 10TB of stuff on HDDs.
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post #1714 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 06:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bakerwi View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by wse View Post

Whoa thank you , that is what I was afraid off!
I think I will keep the 95 for a few more years until they support 9.1 and 11.1 analog also include MDA and Dolby Atmos! I can't stand 3D so I don't care about that and I would love 4K but by projector is still really good and I am not looking to upgrade that either so for now I will stay put unless I read that the 105 blow-out the 95 interms of sound but somehow I doubt it, please prove me wrong

Are there any AVRs or PrePro that support this on their analog inputs ("external in" or whatever it may be called)?

7.1 seems to be the maximum number of multichannel analog inputs, presumably because that's most channels available from current audio sources. The other 4 channels (front wides and front heights) are not standardized. They are generated by processing the other channels. That expansion is supported by several of the more expensive models of pre/pros and receivers.

Selden
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post #1715 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 07:10 AM
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Download a program called lion tweak and run it. activate FTP and run it that way, it maybe called loins tweak...hope this helps
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post #1716 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wse View Post

I think I will keep the 95 for a few more years until they support 9.1 and 11.1 analog

I would say that 9.1 or 11.1 analog will never be supported. Most AVRs/prepros do not have or are dropping the 7.1 analog input. With HDMI here to stay you will not see 9.1 or 11.1 analog IMO.

Bill

My SACD collection, watch it grow and my wallet shrink ;-).

 

Denon 4311 (in preamp mode), Parasound 2100, Boston Acoustics A7200 amp, Oppo BDP-103, Consonance CD120, Panasonic TC-P60GT50 plasma, Panamax 5100EX, Salk Song Towers, Song Center, ADS 300C (surrounds) and two Rythmik F12SEs.
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post #1717 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtold View Post

I have an unusual problem. When I first turn on my 103, no audio. To get audio I have press mute twice on the Oppo remote, after that all is normal. My audio goes to an Onkyo receiver.
I'm using the recommended settings.

For what is worth I have a four year old Onkyo 876 that is doing the exact same thing. I'm not too concerned because I will be putting the 103 on my Integra 80.3 in a few days. I'm reasonably sure the muting problem will go away once it's moved to the Integra.
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post #1718 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Zuter, I think you ran into the trap of trying to calibrate mismatched RGB settings. If one side of the cable is using one choice (RGB Video Level vs. RGB PC Level) but the other side is expecting the opposite choice, those are mismatched settings. The HDMI handshake -- and any sort of "Auto" setting at either end -- can NOT correct such a mismatch. It is something that has to be set Manually -- at both ends of the cable -- unless you luck out and find the default settings choice at each end just happens to match.
Now, if you have a settings mismatch, you can APPROXIMATE calibrating you system by adjusting the video levels to "correct" the mismatch. For example, if the player is sending RGB Video Level (Black=16) whereas the Kuro is expecting RGB PC Level (Black=0) you can approximate proper calibration by lowering black levels (Brightness setting) in the Kuro. I.e., at a given setting of Brightness, the RGB Video Level input signal will appear 16 steps brighter than the RGB PC Level signal, but if you "correct" that by lowering the Brightness setting in the Kuro you will still get Black portions of the content looking "black" on the display. A similar sort of mistaken adjustment fixes the mismatch at the high Luma (White) end of the signal -- in that case it is the Contrast setting in the Kuro.
But this sort of "correction" is not, umm, correct! You are expanding or squeezing the data range between Black and White which means you will get artifacts such as banding.
So you have to START by getting both sides of the cable set to use the same flavor of RGB, and only THEN can you calibrate your levels (e.g., Brightness & Contrast).
Now, the data on shiny discs, and also on TV broadcasts, is YCbCr. The encoding scheme for YCbCr matches what you get with RGB Video Level -- i.e., black = 16. The full data range of Luma (i.e., the data range representing gray scale from Blackest to Whitest) in either RGB Video Level or YCbCr works like this:
Luma 0-15 <-- the "Blacker than Black" values
Luma 16 <-- Reference Black
Lume 235 <-- Reference White
Lume 236-255 <-- the "Peak White" values
The Blacker than Black and Peak White values provide headroom at either end so that video processing doesn't hit a hard wall, which can cause artifacts.
RGB PC Level on the other hand works like this:
Luma 0 <-- Reference Black
Luma 255 <-- Reference White
There are no values below 0 or above 255 so there's no place to carry the Blacker than Black values or the Peak White values. There are more STEPS between Reference Black and White for RGB PC Level, so it allows for a finer step size for each step, but there's no place to carry the below black or above white values during processing. RGB PC Level is designed for use by Computer Graphics cards talking directly to Computer Monitors. The graphics are created on-the-fly in the card, and there's no processing after that. So the finer step size is good, and the lack of headroom at either end is not a problem. So, for example, games machines like to use RGB PC Level. The PS3 is designed to use RGB PC Level when playing games, and the games are authored expecting that. (Indeed the PS3 doesn't even offer a proper implementation of RGB Video Level -- but no problem because you can set it to automatically switch to YCbCr output when playing movies.)
But use of RGB PC Level for movie or TV content is *NOT* a good thing. That content was created expecting the Video Level step sizes. By introducing more steps between Black and White you introduce rounding errors. And, again, the Blacker than Black and Peak White data ranges have to be discarded. There's no place for them in RGB PC Level.
The Kuro displays have a reputation of working better with RGB data format than with YCbCr. But ideally that should be RGB Video Level data format, and not RGB PC Level.
I suspect what's going on in your setup is that your Kuro is set to expect RGB PC Level whenever it sees RGB data format on the HDMI input cable. As such, setting the player to RGB PC Level lets you get a good image once the video levels in the Kuro (e.g., Brightness & Contrast) are calibrated correctly. However, that may not be the "best" image!
If you change to RGB Video Level in *JUST* the player, then you will find that you need to change the Brightness/Contrast settings in the Kuro to get correct Black and White levels. But that's a bandaid -- the wrong way to do it. And will likely result in a poorer quality image.
What you need to do instead is find the companion setting in the Kuro that ALSO changes the KURO to expect RGB Video Level. If you do that -- that is if you change BOTH the player and the Kuro to use RGB Video Level data format -- then you should find that NO CHANGE (or only minor change) is needed in the Brightness and Contrast settings which worked before when you were using RGB PC Level. And what's more, the resulting image should look better when playing movies because you are now using Luma step sizes which match the way the data was actually authored on disc.
With both the player and the Kuro set to use RGB Video Level -- and again, these are settings choices you have to set Manually -- then correct calibration will have Luma values of 16 and below all merged into a single, indistinguishable "Black". That is, the Blacker than Black steps of Luma should not be visible. Luma 16 -- Reference Black -- and the steps below it should ALL produce the blackest pixel output your display can produce, which on the Kuro is pretty darned BLACK!
Those Blacker than Black values still participate in video processing, so you don't want to just discard them! But the end result, AFTER all the processing, is that all pixels which are Black or below should produce a single, undifferentiated "black" output on the display.
At the other end, proper calibration depends on the dynamic range of your display. The starting point is that Luma values up to Reference White should all be distinguishable. If you can't distinguish between Luma steps from say 230-235 then you will have to lower Contrast to eliminate that crush of Whites. This lowers the light output of the display. But what of the Peak White values? Well if you keep lowering Contrast you should be able to distinguish the steps even ABOVE Reference White. Ideally you should be able to distinguish all the way up to Luma 254 (against a 255 background). But your display may not have enough Contrast range to do that. Or if it does, you may not like the amount of light output the display produces for Reference White. I.e., a patch of Reference White (Luma 235) may not appear "white" enough to please you.
If you raise Contast so that the highest Luma step you can distinguish is Reference White, then you will also be increasing the light output of Reference White -- but you will not be able to distinguish glints, sparks, cloud highlights, etc., which are on disc using pixel values in the Peak White range. So depending on the light output of your display, your preference for Room Lighting while watching, and the range of Contrast adjustment available, you may be able to get pleasing results with ALL the Peak White range visible, or just a portion of it, or none of it. So long as you don't crush values below Reference White you are OK, but if you can keep from crushing Peak Whites you are even better.
Again, using RGB PC Level, none of this comes to bear, because you have DISCARDED all the Peak White values by the choice of RGB PC Level data format.
To check this, I recommend you use the Spears & Munsil, Blu-ray, calibration disc. The Dynamic Range Low chart puts up flashing bars either side of Reference Black with the bars labeled in individual Luma steps. You can check EXACTLY what you can distinguish near Reference Black. Similarly the Dynamic Range High chart puts up flashing bars from just below Reference White all the way up to Luma 254 (against a Luma 255 background). So you can check EXACTLY what's distinguishable up there.
As a final check, the Clipping chart shows exactly what is going on with White, Red, Green, and Blue for the highest Luma values. So you can make sure all 3 colors are getting through without Crush at your choice of Contrast setting. I.e., if you see one color is still getting Crushed, then that could be an indication you need to lower Contrast further.
(A professional calibrator will also use light sensor tools to make sure the light output of Reference White is adequate, and to double-check that the video level processing in the Kuro is doing the right thing for gray scale and the colors -- making adjustments as necessary to produce the best compromise solution, which in the Kuro shouldn't involve much of anything in the way of compromise!)
Hope this helps!
--Bob

Thanks Bob! I have two 8G 5010 Kuros and I had my OPPO 83 set for 4-4-4 and the HDMI input on the Kuro set to Auto. I was watching Deep Rising on Blu ray last night and I changed the settings in the OPPO and the Kuro to RGB Video and there is a improvement in the details of the dark scenes. I then changed the OPPO to RGB PC and my blacks became grey just as you stated. I also decided to see what my Pace RNG 200 cable box was outputting since I had that HDMI input set to auto also and low and behold the only setting that worked correctly is RGB Video. If I selected any other setting I would either get a green, pink, or blue color over the picture. There is no settings at all in the Pace to chage the output, even in the hidden menus, so I guess that is what the Pace outputs by default.
I am using D-Nice's user settings and I have checked them using my DVE disc and his settings are accurate. I have yet to use the S&M disc.

One thing that OPPO spoiled me with is the ability to change settings with out stopping the movie and having to start over again. This makes it easy to check if the changes have any effect. Plus the information that you get from these OPPO threads is just another great benefit to owning an OPPO.

"You lose it in here you're in a world of hurt"
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post #1719 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 11:12 AM
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Please help - no sound from BR discs but streaming and DVD playback fine.

Hello,

I just upgraded my AVP and I just switched to an Oppo 103 so I'm not sure where the issue is. I can play back DTS and Dolby DVDs no problem. Streaming multichannel works as well but I get no sound when I play back from my Oppo 103 from DTS or Dolby BR discs. I'm sure I set something wrong but I keep flipping through settings and so far haven't figured it out. I could use your help if you know what I should adjust. When playing back a movie it only no channels for audio input and I've selected the mutichannel main english track for my default. I can play back the commentaries. I can play back the commentaries. These are all orginal discs, not duplicates. I'm using HDMI from the Oppo 103 to the AVP.

I'll post this in the AVP thread as well not really sure where the issue is.

I've also tried setting the Oppo and the AVP to factory defaults.


Thanks
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post #1720 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boe View Post

Please help - no sound from BR discs but streaming and DVD playback fine.

Hello,

I just upgraded my AVP and I just switched to an Oppo 103 so I'm not sure where the issue is. I can play back DTS and Dolby DVDs no problem. Streaming multichannel works as well but I get no sound when I play back from my Oppo 103 from DTS or Dolby BR discs. I'm sure I set something wrong but I keep flipping through settings and so far haven't figured it out. I could use your help if you know what I should adjust. When playing back a movie it only shows 2 channels for audio even though there is no sound and I've selected the mutichannel main english track for my default. I can play back the commentaries. These are all orginal discs, not duplicates.

I'll post this in the AVP thread as well not really sure where the issue is.

Thanks

Is this with HDMI?

Does changing between LPCM and Bitstream make a difference?

Using HDMI2 instead of HDMI1?

Trying a different input on the AVR?

-Bill
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post #1721 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 11:43 AM
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Hello,

I'm using HDMI from the Oppo 103 to the AVP.

Changing between LPCM and bitstream does not help.

I tried switching to HDMI 2 - same issue.

Getting to the wiring on the AVP will be a bit of a challenge - but I'd be surprised if moving the wires would help as I get DTS and DD sound when using regular DVDs through HDMI - just BR is not playing back any sound.

I do notice when I go to speaker configuration (on the Oppo) and do a test tone - I don't get a test tone. Not sure if there is a way to turn off the speaker config as I would imagine my preamp should be doing the work.
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post #1722 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 11:44 AM
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Hi Brian

I have the network setup on wireless but I have not used it for any thing including streaming. I have the latest firmware which I downloaded wirelessly.
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post #1723 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boe View Post

Hello,

I'm using HDMI from the Oppo 103 to the AVP.

Changing between LPCM and bitstream does not help.

I tried switching to HDMI 2 - same issue.

Getting to the wiring on the AVP will be a bit of a challenge - but I'd be surprised if moving the wires would help as I get DTS and DD sound when using regular DVDs through HDMI - just BR is not playing back any sound.

I do notice when I go to speaker configuration (on the Oppo) and do a test tone - I don't get a test tone. Not sure if there is a way to turn off the speaker config as I would imagine my preamp should be doing the work.

Test tones only work with the multichannel analog outputs.

If you connect the player directly to a display do you get audio? If so then I suspect it is something wrong with the AVR settings, but I don't know what that would be.

-Bill
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post #1724 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 12:29 PM
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I don't own any TVs or displays with HDMI in.
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post #1725 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by boe View Post

I don't own any TVs or displays with HDMI in.

May have something to do with the video output setting on your HDMI. If you have it set below 720i I believe you will not get HD audio passed via HDMI.
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post #1726 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Ali is mental View Post

May have something to do with the video output setting on your HDMI. If you have it set below 720i I believe you will not get HD audio passed via HDMI.

Thanks it is currently set for 1080i with no sound.
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post #1727 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boe View Post

Please help - no sound from BR discs but streaming and DVD playback fine.

Hello,

I just upgraded my AVP and I just switched to an Oppo 103 so I'm not sure where the issue is. I can play back DTS and Dolby DVDs no problem. Streaming multichannel works as well but I get no sound when I play back from my Oppo 103 from DTS or Dolby BR discs. I'm sure I set something wrong but I keep flipping through settings and so far haven't figured it out. I could use your help if you know what I should adjust. When playing back a movie it only no channels for audio input and I've selected the mutichannel main english track for my default. I can play back the commentaries. I can play back the commentaries. These are all orginal discs, not duplicates. I'm using HDMI from the Oppo 103 to the AVP.

I'll post this in the AVP thread as well not really sure where the issue is.

Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by boe View Post

Hello,

I'm using HDMI from the Oppo 103 to the AVP.

Changing between LPCM and bitstream does not help.

I tried switching to HDMI 2 - same issue.

Getting to the wiring on the AVP will be a bit of a challenge - but I'd be surprised if moving the wires would help as I get DTS and DD sound when using regular DVDs through HDMI - just BR is not playing back any sound.

I do notice when I go to speaker configuration (on the Oppo) and do a test tone - I don't get a test tone. Not sure if there is a way to turn off the speaker config as I would imagine my preamp should be doing the work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by boe View Post

I don't own any TVs or displays with HDMI in.

Ummm, OK, so give us a clue! biggrin.gif How are you getting video from the 103 into your TV or display when watching Blu-ray discs?

There are three possible reasons for audio to be muted:

1) Copy protection is failing. For that we need to know how it's all connected for both audio and video

2) You are trying to send high bit-rate audio but using only SD video resolution. The DTS-HD MA and TrueHD tracks only work when the video resolution is 720p or higher (because HDMI audio is embedded inside of HDMI video and these tracks need extra room to fit).

3) Your new AVR has a problem, and isn't handling those lossless tracks for some reason.

Presuming you have found a way to get video displayed without having an HDMI TV or Display (see "clue" above), what does the on-screen Info display from the OPPO show you regarding audio? Do this: Get one of your Blu-ray discs playing where there is loss of audio. While the audio is FAILING to happen, press the Info button on the OPPO remote. The bottom left corner of the on-screen Info display will tell you what the OPPO is reading off the disc for audio format. Now press the Page Up or Down button on the remote. The bottom line of the on-screen Info display will change to show you what's being produced for OUTPUT on the HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 connections. Reports both of those here, i.e., what are you trying to play for audio, and what i the OPPO sending out?

Then look at the status displays on the AVR and check what it says it is RECEIVING for audio from the OPPO and report that as well.
--Bob

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post #1728 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by electronics craz View Post

may be silly question but i connected my direct tv box to back of oppo is there a way to stop the flashing hdmi back on the display screen its a little distacting.thanks

When is the flashing happening? If you have the DirecTV set to "native" resolution output, then there will be an HDMI handshake each time the video output resolution changes from the DirecTV -- i.e., each time you change channels where the new channel is broadcasting a different resolution than the old channel, or when the same channel changes resolutions (as sometimes happens during commercials).

You can AVOID that by setting the DirecTV to a fixed output resolution such as 1080i, but that defeats the purpose of playing it through the OPPO as now it is the DirecTV that is doing the upscaling.

An HDMI handshake takes about 2 seconds minimum, and it is pretty normal for the video to do strange things while the handshake is in progress.
--Bob

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post #1729 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by danieljoseph View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wixer102 View Post

It appears I am also having a similar lip sync issue (first time using the Oppo since the firmware update). Using the Ghostbusters blu ray, I have a very slight delay using 1080p output or auto output. The delay does not occur if I use source direct. My wife also saw a delay on a DVD earlier this week. As an FYI, I am running one hdmi cable through my receiver from hdmi 1, and using LPCM.
I am also still unable to bitstream audio to my Anthem MRX300 after the firmware upgrade - I believe another poster is still having the issue as well.

I am having problems with lip sync issues on all blu-ray discs on HDMI1 but when HDMI2 is used there is no problem. Mine is connected to a Denon 4810. I have contacted Oppo and waiting for a reply. This is terribly disappointing.

OPPO is aware of some instances of lip-sync error and is working on them, I would expect this to be fixed in firmware. (Similar errors crept into the first firmware for the 93/95 and were fixed pretty quickly.) It never hurts to make sure they know of your specific cases, just in case you've found a new way for it to go wrong. So please do write up what you've discovered -- particularly if it is repeatable -- and email that to OPPP Tech Support.

The issue of Bitstream audio to the Anthem MRX receivers has been posted her a few times already. I'm not having any such problem using my Anthem Statement D2v. OPPO has Anthem equipment in their test lab, so I'm surprise this is happening. Folks having the problem using the MRX should also let OPPO know.
--Bob

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post #1730 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 01:49 PM
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maybe im doing something wrong i connected the direct tv box hdmi out into the back of oppo hdmi in i get a picture and all but on front panel the hdmi back continues to scroll non stop on the oppo display screen which is annoying.thanks
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post #1731 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 01:58 PM
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When is the flashing happening? If you have the DirecTV set to "native" resolution output, then there will be an HDMI handshake each time the video output resolution changes from the DirecTV -- i.e., each time you change channels where the new channel is broadcasting a different resolution than the old channel, or when the same channel changes resolutions (as sometimes happens during commercials).
You can AVOID that by setting the DirecTV to a fixed output resolution such as 1080i, but that defeats the purpose of playing it through the OPPO as now it is the DirecTV that is doing the upscaling.
An HDMI handshake takes about 2 seconds minimum, and it is pretty normal for the video to do strange things while the handshake is in progress.
--Bob

Im currently using it with Native off, because everytime resolution changes I lose audio from HDMI 2. That being said, I figure itll be fixed, and at least the Oppo is scaling to 1080p/60 for the display.

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maybe im doing something wrong i connected the direct tv box hdmi out into the back of oppo hdmi in i get a picture and all but on front panel the hdmi back continues to scroll non stop on the oppo display screen which is annoying.thanks

It's going to do that, just cut the display off.



On another note, since a recent HR34 DVR software update, I am no longer having the HDCP problems on Cinemax and HBO. It tunes just fine now, without giving me a warning that required changing inputs and then coming back, spinning around, and sacrificing a goat. I now need to determine if it fixed my audio dropout issues.

65" VT50 / BDP-S6200
X4000 / Outlaw Model 7125
Klipsch RF82 II and RC62 II / Hsu VTF-15H (2)
Directv HR44-200 / HR24-500
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post #1732 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 02:00 PM
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OPPO is aware of some instances of lip-sync error and is working on them, I would expect this to be fixed in firmware. (Similar errors crept into the first firmware for the 93/95 and were fixed pretty quickly.) It never hurts to make sure they know of your specific cases, just in case you've found a new way for it to go wrong. So please do write up what you've discovered -- particularly if it is repeatable -- and email that to OPPP Tech Support.
The issue of Bitstream audio to the Anthem MRX receivers has been posted her a few times already. I'm not having any such problem using my Anthem Statement D2v. OPPO has Anthem equipment in their test lab, so I'm surprise this is happening. Folks having the problem using the MRX should also let OPPO know.
--Bob

Oppo has the MRX bit on their bug list; reported and Oppo is fully aware of the issue.
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post #1733 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 02:06 PM
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maybe im doing something wrong i connected the direct tv box hdmi out into the back of oppo hdmi in i get a picture and all but on front panel the hdmi back continues to scroll non stop on the oppo display screen which is annoying.thanks

Press dimmer on remote, it will do 1/2 brightness, another click will make it black out.
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post #1734 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 02:25 PM
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maybe im doing something wrong i connected the direct tv box hdmi out into the back of oppo hdmi in i get a picture and all but on front panel the hdmi back continues to scroll non stop on the oppo display screen which is annoying.thanks

This is the way it works in the current firmware. Obviously this is something OPPO can adjust in future firmware.
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post #1735 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 02:28 PM
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. . . .
On another note, since a recent HR34 DVR software update, I am no longer having the HDCP problems on Cinemax and HBO. It tunes just fine now, without giving me a warning that required changing inputs and then coming back, spinning around, and sacrificing a goat. I now need to determine if it fixed my audio dropout issues.

That's good to know! When did DirecTV push the firmware update that fixed this?
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post #1736 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 02:33 PM
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Couple of days ago. I only have the HR34, not sure of anyone else's experience with other models. Ill test the audio dropouts with Native ON in a few minutes.

65" VT50 / BDP-S6200
X4000 / Outlaw Model 7125
Klipsch RF82 II and RC62 II / Hsu VTF-15H (2)
Directv HR44-200 / HR24-500
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post #1737 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 03:24 PM
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Ummm, OK, so give us a clue! biggrin.gif How are you getting video from the 103 into your TV or display when watching Blu-ray discs?
There are three possible reasons for audio to be muted:
1) Copy protection is failing. For that we need to know how it's all connected for both audio and video
2) You are trying to send high bit-rate audio but using only SD video resolution. The DTS-HD MA and TrueHD tracks only work when the video resolution is 720p or higher (because HDMI audio is embedded inside of HDMI video and these tracks need extra room to fit).
3) Your new AVR has a problem, and isn't handling those lossless tracks for some reason.
Presuming you have found a way to get video displayed without having an HDMI TV or Display (see "clue" above), what does the on-screen Info display from the OPPO show you regarding audio? Do this: Get one of your Blu-ray discs playing where there is loss of audio. While the audio is FAILING to happen, press the Info button on the OPPO remote. The bottom left corner of the on-screen Info display will tell you what the OPPO is reading off the disc for audio format. Now press the Page Up or Down button on the remote. The bottom line of the on-screen Info display will change to show you what's being produced for OUTPUT on the HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 connections. Reports both of those here, i.e., what are you trying to play for audio, and what i the OPPO sending out?
Then look at the status displays on the AVR and check what it says it is RECEIVING for audio from the OPPO and report that as well.
--Bob


Thanks

I'm watching HDMI to AVP - AVP to DVI for watching - video is fine - just audio from BR is an issue for DD or DTS. DD and DTS from DVD play fine.
I am watching at 1080i on my TV. My TV is a rear projection 1080i TV - worked fine before I switched from the AVP to the updated AVP and from the Oppo 93 to the 103 - I did both at the same time so I'm not sure which is the issue.
The Denon shows audio unknown from the Oppo - not sure if that is what you are asking.

I broke down and moved the BR player to my other AVP - works fine so the issue is with my first AVP - I'll pick this up in the AVP thread - thanks for your help.
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post #1738 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 04:13 PM
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Something is screwy in these results. If you really are using RGB PC Level output from the OPPO, then content Luma values of 0-15 are clipped to 16 (and output as 0), and content Luma values of 236-255 are clipped to 235 (and output as 255).
I.e., with RGB PC Level data format it is not possible to distinguish content Luma steps below 16 or above 235 no matter what you do with the display settings because that data is simply not being sent across the cable.
The only way to make those pixels distinguishable is to change the OUTPUT video levels in the PLAYER to "compress" the gray scale range. For example, if you raise Brightness in the OPPO's Picture Adjustments that has the effect of raising those below black pixels to above black -- and thus also making "black" pixels "dark gray". Similarly if you lower Contrast in the OPPO's Picture adjustments that has the effect of lowering peak white pixels to below reference white -- and thus also lowing "white" pixels to "off white".
If that's what you were doing -- i.e., trying to get it "right" by altering the Picture Adjustment settings in the OPPO -- then that's likely the source of your confusion. When calibrating, you should leave the Picture Adjustment settings of the OPPO at their factory default (0) values, and make any necessary adjustments using ONLY the settings in the Kuro.
Here's the key: If you are using the default Picture Adjustment settings in the OPPO, and are also truly using RGB PC Level output data format, then no amount of raising the Brightness setting in the Kuro will make content pixels in the range 0-15 distinguishable from "Black" -- i.e., from content Luma 16. Similarly, no amount of lowering the Contrast setting in the Kuro will make content pixels in the range 236-255 distinguishable from "Reference White" -- i.e., from content Luma 235.
With RGB Video Level selected at both ends of the cable, and still using the default (0) Picture Adjustment values in the player, then raising Brightness in the Kuro should make the Blacker than Black pixels distinguishable, and lowering Contrast in the Kuro should make the Peak White pixels distinguishable -- again, because those pixel values are actually included in the RGB Video Level data range.
Additional Note: The ORIGINAL Avia disc did not actually include any Blacker than Black pixels in its charts. The AVS HD 709 charts do include those, and I believe the re-issue of the Avia disc may also include those. (I use the now out of print Avia Pro disc set, so I never actually looked at the re-issue of the original, single-disc Avia.) I still recommend use of Spears & Munsil to nail this stuff down.
--Bob

Hi Bob

As promised I redid the setup. The AVSHD disc was used for all setups. I ensured the factory setting for the OPPO's picture adjustment - never player with those in my original setup. Again all setting for RGB matched in OPPO and Kuro. I watched the video describing the process and noticed they said to do brightness before constrast, I've always done it the other way around as suggested by Avia. Again both RGB PC and Video were calibrated on sepearate setting to view any differences. Before the review I knew that there would be little difference as both ended up within +/- 1 on brightness and all other setting were identical. In both cases I was able to get reference blacks and whites dialed in properly. The thing I also did different was in a screen, shown in the video, where you could adjust RGB setting further. They consist of 3 bars, red, blue and green which flashed. I have a manual setting in color temp where I can adjust high and low RGB. I tweaked this slightly to get a good balance of all 3 colors. Rechecked my color and tint setting with blue screen and was finished. This solved my reddish skin tone issue.

I reviewed several blurays and DVD's while switching between the two setting, in their native RGB settings for Video and PC. Each looked great when viewing PC to PC or Video to Video. I really couldn't see a difference between either one. Another good thing, I re-ran the calibration on my HTPC and was astonished at the difference it made. My Blurays and DVD's never looked better. I almost wished I hadn't bought the OPPO...NOT! Well maybe I could have waited for the 105 wink.gif

So thanks for your insight. The few hours I spent was well worth the results.

Cheers
Zuter
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post #1739 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 04:18 PM
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Thanks

I'm watching HDMI to AVP - AVP to DVI for watching - video is fine - just audio from BR is an issue for DD or DTS. DD and DTS from DVD play fine.
I am watching at 1080i on my TV. My TV is a rear projection 1080i TV - worked fine before I switched from the AVP to the updated AVP and from the Oppo 93 to the 103 - I did both at the same time so I'm not sure which is the issue.
The Denon shows audio unknown from the Oppo - not sure if that is what you are asking.

I broke down and moved the BR player to my other AVP - works fine so the issue is with my first AVP - I'll pick this up in the AVP thread - thanks for your help.

OK, now we are getting some clarity here.

I agree that this is likely a simple settings error in the AVP.

My recommendation would be to look for a setting in the AVP which controls whether audio is "passed through" to the Display or not. My guess would be that copy protection is failing for the lossless tracks because there's no audio capability on the DVI connection to your display.

The owner's thread for your Receiver will likely be the best source of help on this.
--Bob

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post #1740 of 17766 Old 11-04-2012, 04:23 PM
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Hi Bob

As promised I redid the setup. The AVSHD disc was used for all setups. I ensured the factory setting for the OPPO's picture adjustment - never player with those in my original setup. Again all setting for RGB matched in OPPO and Kuro. I watched the video describing the process and noticed they said to do brightness before constrast, I've always done it the other way around as suggested by Avia. Again both RGB PC and Video were calibrated on sepearate setting to view any differences. Before the review I knew that there would be little difference as both ended up within +/- 1 on brightness and all other setting were identical. In both cases I was able to get reference blacks and whites dialed in properly. The thing I also did different was in a screen, shown in the video, where you could adjust RGB setting further. They consist of 3 bars, red, blue and green which flashed. I have a manual setting in color temp where I can adjust high and low RGB. I tweaked this slightly to get a good balance of all 3 colors. Rechecked my color and tint setting with blue screen and was finished. This solved my reddish skin tone issue.

I reviewed several blurays and DVD's while switching between the two setting, in their native RGB settings for Video and PC. Each looked great when viewing PC to PC or Video to Video. I really couldn't see a difference between either one. Another good thing, I re-ran the calibration on my HTPC and was astonished at the difference it made. My Blurays and DVD's never looked better. I almost wished I hadn't bought the OPPO...NOT! Well maybe I could have waited for the 105 wink.gif

So thanks for your insight. The few hours I spent was well worth the results.

Cheers
Zuter

By Jove, I think he's got it! smile.gif

When RGB Video Level and RGB PC Level are each, individually, calibrated correctly, the differences between them SHOULD be quite subtle. RGB Video Level should have slightly less propensity towards false contours (banding), and you may also spot fewer instances of video noise near black.

But the fact that you can get BOTH RGB Video Level and RGB PC Level so close it is hard to tell the difference between them means you are definitely on the right track.

My recommendation is, if you can no longer spot any reason to prefer RGB PC Level, then you should definitely use RGB Video Level going forward.
--Bob

Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide. -- Need personal consultation/training? PM me!
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