Official OPPO BDP-103 Owner's Thread - Page 590 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #17671 of 21674 Old 07-20-2014, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post
Most common reason would be a dirty or defective disc. Not all issues are visible on the disc.
The disc was spotless. Hopefully just defective. Thanks.

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post #17672 of 21674 Old 07-20-2014, 02:41 PM
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I did a search but did not see this issue listed. For about a week, my Oppo 103 has been starting in Pure Audio mode, I have to push the "P" button twice to see the screen. This also happens when the source is changed. Has anyone else experienced this issue? I updated to the latest firmware after this issue started thinking something may have happened to the firmware, but it is still coming up in Pure Audio mode.

Any help is appreciated.

Best,
Ed
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post #17673 of 21674 Old 07-20-2014, 02:41 PM
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Double Post

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post #17674 of 21674 Old 07-20-2014, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by EdBag4 View Post
I did a search but did not see this issue listed. For about a week, my Oppo 103 has been starting in Pure Audio mode, I have to push the "P" button twice to see the screen. This also happens when the source is changed. Has anyone else experienced this issue? I updated to the latest firmware after this issue started thinking something may have happened to the firmware, but it is still coming up in Pure Audio mode.

Any help is appreciated.

Best,
Ed
OK, a couple basic questions here:

1) Are you sure this is Pure Mode? In particular, is the Front Panel Display text going to black as well, and does that then come back after you press Pure twice? If only the Video is going to black, that's a different issue entirely, with different steps to diagnose and cure it. (NOTE: There is a Setup setting to keep the Front Panel blacked out. If you've selected that, the Front Panel will light up, but only briefly, when you do something with the remote.)

2) Did you do a Reset after doing the firmware update?

If you are only losing video, then the fact that it comes back after you press Pure twice may just be coincidence -- i.e., video muting during a long HDMI handshake, may clear away in the couple seconds it takes for you to press Pure twice.

Typically loss of video is due to an issue with the HDMI handshake, and you address that by checking cable quality among other steps.

If the player really is going into Pure Mode then you should start with a complete Reset of the player. NOTE: Since you've got the latest firmware installed, you can save and restore Setup settings via a USB stick which makes this go faster. See Setup > Device Setup > Settings Management.

1) Remove any disc. Either jot down your Setup settings or save them to a USB stick.

2) In Setup > Device Setup, Erase Persistent Storage

3) In Setup > Device Setup, Reset Factory Defaults. You can use the choice that preserves account settings.

4) After that completes, power down the player.

5) Pull the power plug for about 10 seconds. This forces the player to do a complete reboot of its lowest level circuitry.

6) Plug back in and power up.

At this point, i.e., with the Factory settings still in place, check to see if your Pure mode problem still exists. If it does -- and if the Front Panel is also going to black, indication this really is Pure Mode -- then your player probably needs Warranty service. Give OPPO Tech Support a call. If the problem does NOT exist then continue:

7) Re-enter your settings, or restore them from the USB stick

8) Power down the player one more time. Settings are saved during the power down cycle.

Check again to see if the problem is still cured.
--Bob

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post #17675 of 21674 Old 07-20-2014, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post
OK, a couple basic questions here:

1) Are you sure this is Pure Mode? In particular, is the Front Panel Display text going to black as well, and does that then come back after you press Pure twice? If only the Video is going to black, that's a different issue entirely, with different steps to diagnose and cure it. (NOTE: There is a Setup setting to keep the Front Panel blacked out. If you've selected that, the Front Panel will light up, but only briefly, when you do something with the remote.)

2) Did you do a Reset after doing the firmware update?

If you are only losing video, then the fact that it comes back after you press Pure twice may just be coincidence -- i.e., video muting during a long HDMI handshake, may clear away in the couple seconds it takes for you to press Pure twice.

Typically loss of video is due to an issue with the HDMI handshake, and you address that by checking cable quality among other steps.

If the player really is going into Pure Mode then you should start with a complete Reset of the player. NOTE: Since you've got the latest firmware installed, you can save and restore Setup settings via a USB stick which makes this go faster. See Setup > Device Setup > Settings Management.

1) Remove any disc. Either jot down your Setup settings or save them to a USB stick.

2) In Setup > Device Setup, Erase Persistent Storage

3) In Setup > Device Setup, Reset Factory Defaults. You can use the choice that preserves account settings.

4) After that completes, power down the player.

5) Pull the power plug for about 10 seconds. This forces the player to do a complete reboot of its lowest level circuitry.

6) Plug back in and power up.

At this point, i.e., with the Factory settings still in place, check to see if your Pure mode problem still exists. If it does -- and if the Front Panel is also going to black, indication this really is Pure Mode -- then your player probably needs Warranty service. Give OPPO Tech Support a call. If the problem does NOT exist then continue:

7) Re-enter your settings, or restore them from the USB stick

8) Power down the player one more time. Settings are saved during the power down cycle.

Check again to see if the problem is still cured.
--Bob
Bob, thanks for the detailed response, much appreciated. When I update firmware I do the full reset and power down as well.

I believe your question whether or not it is in Pure Audio is a good one, I believe I am having an issue with my Monoprice 30' Redmere cable. The "Pure Audio" issue started about a week ago, today in what I thought to be an unrelated issue, I started getting "source detect" dropouts on the projector. I plugged my laptop into the projector with a 3' cable and no dropouts (I had previously verified that it was happening regardless of the source equip.) so the cable it is!

I don't know what happened to the cable but it appears to be getting progressively worse which I find odd for digital.

Thanks again for the response.

Best,
Ed

Last edited by EdBag4; 07-20-2014 at 06:16 PM.
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post #17676 of 21674 Old 07-20-2014, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post
Most common reason would be a dirty or defective disc. Not all issues are visible on the disc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamikaze13 View Post
The disc was spotless. Hopefully just defective. Thanks.
A spotless disk can still need cleaning even if it's the first time it's been played. Also a spotless disk can be defective because of a fault in it's manufacture. The optical drive in your OPPO can also need cleaning.

I'm not saying that any of these problems are what you've encountered but they need to be checked.

It's less likely that it's a firmware problem because the movie you're having a problem with isn't a new release.
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post #17677 of 21674 Old 07-20-2014, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by htwaits View Post
A spotless disk can still need cleaning even if it's the first time it's been played. Also a spotless disk can be defective because of a fault in it's manufacture. The optical drive in your OPPO can also need cleaning..
Doesn't seem to be the disc. I put it in today again and had no problems.
Hopefully just a one time thing..

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post #17678 of 21674 Old 07-20-2014, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Kamikaze13 View Post
Doesn't seem to be the disc. I put it in today again and had no problems.
Hopefully just a one time thing..
Then your problem is a glitch which is way beyond my pay grade (0).
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post #17679 of 21674 Old 07-20-2014, 07:08 PM
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Then your problem is a glitch which is way beyond my pay grade (0).
The dreaded INTERMITTENT glitch!!!

Oy vey!!!

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post #17680 of 21674 Old 07-20-2014, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by EdBag4 View Post
Bob, thanks for the detailed response, much appreciated. When I update firmware I do the full reset and power down as well.

I believe your question whether or not it is in Pure Audio is a good one, I believe I am having an issue with my Monoprice 30' Redmere cable. The "Pure Audio" issue started about a week ago, today in what I thought to be an unrelated issue, I started getting "source detect" dropouts on the projector. I plugged my laptop into the projector with a 3' cable and no dropouts (I had previously verified that it was happening regardless of the source equip.) so the cable it is!

I don't know what happened to the cable but it appears to be getting progressively worse which I find odd for digital.

Thanks again for the response.

Best,
Ed
A Redmere technology cable has an active circuit in the plug at one end. First, that means these cables are directional -- you have to be sure you have it plugged in the correct way around. And Second, any electronics can fail, so your cable may simply have a fault in the active circuit.
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post #17681 of 21674 Old 07-20-2014, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Kamikaze13 View Post
Doesn't seem to be the disc. I put it in today again and had no problems.
Hopefully just a one time thing..
It's possible the laser lens picked up a bit of dust that has since gotten dislodged during further playback or the act of changing the disc.
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post #17682 of 21674 Old 07-21-2014, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post
A Redmere technology cable has an active circuit in the plug at one end. First, that means these cables are directional -- you have to be sure you have it plugged in the correct way around. And Second, any electronics can fail, so your cable may simply have a fault in the active circuit.
--Bob
While Redmere is directional, it does support ARC.
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post #17683 of 21674 Old 07-21-2014, 08:55 AM
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While Redmere is directional, it does support ARC.
Yep. Go figur.... Presumably it's not an issue because the ARC audio is so low bandwidth compared to the normal HDMI video usage.

A more interesting question is whether all the Redmere cables out there will become obsolete when HDMI 2.0 and HDCP 2.2 descend on an unsuspecting public.
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post #17684 of 21674 Old 07-21-2014, 11:19 AM
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bd103 subtitle issue

i can't tell if this is the oppo or the disc i'm playing.
I have "the collected shorts of jan svankmajer'. One of the shorts has the option of subtitles on/off.
when i turn them on, they are 2/3 off the bottom of the screen so i can't read them!
If i use the oppo remote to change picture size ie 1/2 zoom etc the picture changes size but the subtitles stay in exactly the same place and never move.
would this be a disc problem or the oppo??
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post #17685 of 21674 Old 07-21-2014, 11:24 AM
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^ Check Setup > Video Setup > Display Settings > Subtitle Shift. You can also adjust this by pressing and holding the Subtitles button on the remote for a few seconds. Then Up/Down arrow to adjust and Select to set that.
--Bob
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post #17686 of 21674 Old 07-21-2014, 03:19 PM
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I just got a Samsung Hu9000 and I wanted to possibly add an Oppo 103. How much better is the Oppo vs the Sony S790? Also can I can connect my direct TV box to the Oppo 103? If so, does it help the PQ of cable?
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post #17687 of 21674 Old 07-22-2014, 03:28 AM
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Originally Posted by MatiPlaneteer View Post
I just got a Samsung Hu9000 and I wanted to possibly add an Oppo 103. How much better is the Oppo vs the Sony S790? Also can I can connect my direct TV box to the Oppo 103? If so, does it help the PQ of cable?
Better?
Depends what you think is ''better''.
If you mean picture quality over HDMI, both should be identical.
If you mean the build of the player, the noise it makes when playing discs, the customer support, the native support for all kinds of different discs and video/audio files or the audio quality over analogue : the Oppo wins without a doubt.

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post #17688 of 21674 Old 07-22-2014, 05:33 AM
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Originally Posted by MatiPlaneteer View Post
I just got a Samsung Hu9000 and I wanted to possibly add an Oppo 103. How much better is the Oppo vs the Sony S790? Also can I can connect my direct TV box to the Oppo 103? If so, does it help the PQ of cable?
Yes, you can connect your DirecTV box to the 103 and from the comments of others (not me ) who have that setup, it works well.
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post #17689 of 21674 Old 07-22-2014, 05:54 AM
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Yes, you can connect your DirecTV box to the 103 and from the comments of others (not me ) who have that setup, it works well.
I can confirm this works.
Sometimes there are some problems with the lip sync but simply changing the INPUT on the Oppo to for example Bluray and back again to HDMI input always fixes this.
So no big deal really.

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post #17690 of 21674 Old 07-22-2014, 03:19 PM
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I just got my 103 today and I'm happy with it. The PQ through HDMI 2 is top notch for BDs. When I was going through test patterns with Spears and Munsil earlier it got stuck outputting solid green. Re-seating the HDMI cable fixed it so hopefully that's all it was.

I have an issue that concerns playback though. With the resolution set to Source Direct, all 4:3 content on DVDs is stretched to 16:9. If I set it to 480i or any other resolution, it stays in 4:3. In the 103's video setup, TV aspect ratio is set to 16:9 Wide Auto and DVD 24p Conversion is Off. I haven't tested HDMI 1. Firmware is up to date.

I had a very similar problem with the Marantz UD5007 recently. That player would output 4:3 correctly in Source Direct as long as there wasn't any anamorphic 16:9 flags on the disc. If there were flags then Source Direct, 480i, and 480p settings would output 4:3 stretched. The 103 is different as the flags don't matter, all 4:3 content is stretched.

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post #17691 of 21674 Old 07-22-2014, 03:51 PM
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I have an issue that concerns playback though. With the resolution set to Source Direct, all 4:3 content on DVDs is stretched to 16:9.
On this player, with Source Direct, aspect control has to be applied by the display or other processor. I think that is proper: by definition Source Direct should do as little processing as possible.

My memory fades, but I believe the BDP-83 did it that way, but the BDP-93 did apply aspect control in Source Direct. In that respect it was like the very expensive Pioneer 09, which some people took to be the standard for player function, no matter how much we argued with them.

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post #17692 of 21674 Old 07-22-2014, 04:13 PM
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I just got my 103 today and I'm happy with it. The PQ through HDMI 2 is top notch for BDs. When I was going through test patterns with Spears and Munsil earlier it got stuck outputting solid green. Re-seating the HDMI cable fixed it so hopefully that's all it was.

I have an issue that concerns playback though. With the resolution set to Source Direct, all 4:3 content on DVDs is stretched to 16:9. If I set it to 480i or any other resolution, it stays in 4:3. In the 103's video setup, TV aspect ratio is set to 16:9 Wide Auto and DVD 24p Conversion is Off. I haven't tested HDMI 1. Firmware is up to date.

I had a very similar problem with the Marantz UD5007 recently. That player would output 4:3 correctly in Source Direct as long as there wasn't any anamorphic 16:9 flags on the disc. If there were flags then Source Direct, 480i, and 480p settings would output 4:3 stretched. The 103 is different as the flags don't matter, all 4:3 content is stretched.
Actually this is correct behavior. SD-DVD uses "variable width pixels" to encode 16:9 and 4:3 content into the same count of content pixels on disc -- 720x480 pixels *EITHER WAY*.

If you do the math, 720 / 480 is an aspect ratio of 1.5. 16/9 is 1.778 and 4/3 is 1.333. So the matrix actually recorded on disc is an aspect ratio right in between. This was done quite intentionally so that SD-DVD could be a "transition format" between traditional 4:3 TVs and the newly minted 16:9 TVs.

That 720x480 matrix of pixels is RENDERED as either 16:9 or 4:3 by interpreting each on-disc pixel as either wider than it is tall (16:9) or taller than it is wide (4:3). That rendering happens in your display if you send SD resolution to the display. But when you tell the player to output HD video (i.e., 1080p) the rendering is done in the player. That's because HD video uses *SQUARE* pixels in a 16:9 matrix -- 1920x1080, which has an aspect ratio of 1.778

The way that it is done is that if the content is flagged as "anamorphic" -- i.e., 16:9 -- then the 720x480 content pixels are mapped directly to the 1920x1080 output pixels so that the image fills the output left to right and top to bottom. The source pixels are interpreted as rectangles that are wider than they are tall, and mapped to the square HD pixels as part of the scaling.

However, if the content is flagged as 4:3 then the player has to "squeeze" the image into a 4:3 shape, embedded in the 16:9 output. This is done by adding black pixels on the left and right of each line -- the "pillar box bars" -- with the real content contained in the middle 1440 pixels of each 1920 pixel line. The result is a 1440x1080 image (4:3 = 1.333 aspect ratio) embedded in a 1920x1080 output frame (16:9 = 1.778 aspect ratio).

NOTE: This addition of pillar box bars is something that should only be done as part of the upscaling of the SD content to HD for display. Why? Because otherwise you clobber horizontal resolution. Suppose you take a 720x480 content frame -- flagged as 4:3 -- and decide you are going to output it as an SD output frame flagged as 16:9. The problem is that the 16:9, SD output frame is *ALSO* 720x480. Those non-square pixels, you see? So what happens is your original 720x480 content pixels get squeezed into 540x480 output pixels -- the middle 540 "fat" pixels of each 720 "fat" pixel (i.e., 16:9) output line -- and the remaining pixels on either side become your black pillar box bar pixels. You've just thrown away horizontal resolution, and there is no way to recover that in subsequent processing.

OK, now consider Source Direct output.

Source Direct preserves the content on disc and presents that *UNCHANGED* to the output. That means the 720x480 pixels on disc are going to remain 720x480 pixels on output. But what about pillar box bars if the content is 4:3? Uh, uh. Source Direct does not add those. One reason is the loss of horizontal resolution just mentioned, but the MAIN reason is that "Source Direct" means don't change the content. Adding pillar box bars changes the content.

So Source Direct of an SD-DVD always outputs the 720x480 pixel frames coming off the disc as the SAME 720x480 output pixels. ALONG WITH the 16:9 vs. 4:3 flagging meta-data!

And that means, it now becomes the job of the DISPLAY DEVICE to render that as 16:9 or 4:3, and in the case of an HD display that gets done as part of upscaling the non-square SD input pixels to square HD pixels for output.

So the PROBLEM is that your Display is not doing that!

I.e., it is seeing 720x480 input -- flagged as 4:3 -- and is rendering that *AS IF* it was flagged as 16:9. And *THAT'S* what makes the image look stretched horizontally -- because your Display is not doing "the right thing" with that input. I.e., it is not adding the needed pillar box bars as part of the upscaling.

Now some Displays can be set to add the pillar box bars automatically for SD input -- i.e., according to the aspect ratio flags transmitted as part of the SD video stream by Source Direct output. But some displays require that you select that manually for SD input. I.e., you have to make a "picture size" choice in the Display to tell it that the SD input is really 4:3 and thus the Display should add the pillar box bars as part of its upscaling.
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post #17693 of 21674 Old 07-22-2014, 04:45 PM
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^ I should add that when you select explicit 480i or 480p output along with "16:9 Wide/Auto", then the player DOES add the pillar box bars to 4:3 content, and changes the output flag to indicate the content is now 16:9 -- i.e., padded out to 16:9 with the addition of those pillar box bars.

However, YOU SHOULD NOT SELECT THIS COMBO! Why? Because you've just thrown away horizontal resolution as explained above. This is bad enough for the gray scale information (the black to white range of the pixels), but it is EVEN WORSE for color information, because the way images are recorded on SD-DVD the color information is only present on disc half as often horizontally (and vertically) as the gray scale information. So you've got LESS horizontal color resolution than gray scale resolution to begin with and you can't afford to throw any of it way.

If you play a resolution chart -- such as a black and white or color Zone Plate, or the type of chart that has horizontal and vertical "wedges" of closely spaced lines -- the loss of horizontal resolution will be immediately obvious.

*INSTEAD*, you should set the player to explicit 480i or 480p with "16:9 Wide" -- not Wide/Auto. With "16:9 Wide" the player will not add pillar box bars to 4:3 content.

So 16:9 content goes out as 16:9 -- unchanged -- no problems. And 4:3 content ALSO goes out unchanged -- no pillar box bars -- and still flagged as 4:3.

And once again, just as in the Source Direct case, that means it is now the job of your DISPLAY to add the pillar box bars to render that 4:3 input on your 16:9 TV screen properly. And as with the Source Direct case, that may or may not require a manual setting selection on your Display.
--Bob

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post #17694 of 21674 Old 07-22-2014, 09:16 PM
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^ Thank you both especially Bob for the very detailed explanation. That makes perfect sense. I had completely misunderstood how 4:3/16:9 are handled on DVDs.

I wasn't going to use Source Direct for the time being anyways but I am planning to add a separate video processor in the near future mainly for calibration so that was my concern.

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post #17695 of 21674 Old 07-23-2014, 12:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aliens View Post
Don't let it get to you.

D* HDMI out to Oppo HDMI in. Oppo HDMI 1 out to TV. Oppo HDMI 2 out to AVR BD in. It really is that easy. You will not get 3D by running one HDMI out of the Oppo to your AVR. If the split A/V connections don't get you 3D audio/video, then I don't believe your receiver is compatible.

The AVR HDMI out to TV HDMI in should allow you to see the on screen menu. You will find that by toggling through your TV inputs, not your AVR inputs.
The above configuration is what I tried last time, the dual HDMI Split A/V recommended by Oppo. Everything worked, it just seems a bit confusing due to changing inputs on at least two devices to get where I need for tv or BD playback. I now have it like this again and will stick with it.

You're correct, the single HDMI to AVR did not work for 3D. My Pioneer AVR is great for surround sound and music but apparently pre-3D. At least I see no mention of 3D in the manual.

I previously had an AVR OUT to tv HDMI IN but still could not get the AVR on screen display when selecting that input on the tv; said 'not available'. Don't know why that is, but I don't currently need to make any AVR on screen adjustments. The PQ and sound is excellent. Using a new Sony 65W850A LED and very happy with it. Thanks to you, and the many experienced users on the forum for helping out the less technically enthusiastic among us.
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post #17696 of 21674 Old 07-23-2014, 12:37 AM
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Doesn't seem to be the disc. I put it in today again and had no problems.
Hopefully just a one time thing..
Sometimes a 'fly' (particle of long dust) can infiltrate the inside disc tray and land on the disc.
...Happened to me once or twice.

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post #17697 of 21674 Old 07-23-2014, 12:42 AM
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It's possible the laser lens picked up a bit of dust that has since gotten dislodged during further playback or the act of changing the disc.
--Bob
Or that.
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post #17698 of 21674 Old 07-23-2014, 12:46 AM
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QUESTION: Between the 103 and 103D, which one did Oppo sell the most units?

...I know, it's a tough question, but someone had to asked.
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post #17699 of 21674 Old 07-23-2014, 12:46 AM
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I wasn't going to use Source Direct for the time being anyways but I am planning to add a separate video processor in the near future mainly for calibration
I don't understand this thinking. If you do a TV calibration, wouldn't you want it to go through exactly the same video device chain and settings that you will eventually WATCH through? Why would you do your calibration through a device chain and with device settings that eliminated everything you will actually be using when you actually do watch something?

My 103 HDMI-1 output goes through my Yamaha RX-V867 AVR (which supports 3D, so there's no concern), with all video processing in the 867 turned off. HDMI-1 output from the 867 goes to my Panny 65VT50, and HDMI-2 output from the 867 goes to my Sony 34XBR960 (which is another reason I route video from the 103 through the AVR, to support video delivery to two HDTVs). So all video processing is handled within the 103, and none is done by the AVR.

Also, my cable TV DVR HDMI output is sent through the rear HDMI input of the 103. This is another reason I want to use HDMI-1 output from the 103, because I want to be able to utilize the video cleanup/processing capability (and upconversion to 1080p) of the 103 for dealing with 720p/1080i HDTV input from cable. When playing 1080p BluRay discs or streaming 1080p Netflix, there's near-nothing that will happen using HDMI-1 output from the 103, and "near zero" is close enough to Source Direct for 1080p for me. But using the HDMI-1 output path for external cable HDMI input enhances HDTV substantially.

Anyway, when I had both of my TV's calibrated, I specifically had the signal generator's HDMI output go into the front HDMI input of the 103, leaving everything else in place: HDMI-1 out of the 103 into the AVR, HDMI-1 out of the AVR to the HDTVs. In other words I specifically wanted the calibration of the TVs to be done using exactly the same multi-device and signal path chain that would occur when normally watching HDTV or BD discs or Netflix streaming, as when the calibration signal generator was the source device. That allowed the calibration of each HDTV with the signal generator as the source to be such that all of the identical equipment and device settings would still be identical when true source was used... all flowing through the 103 and with HDMI-1 output.

Seems pointless to me to do a calibration through a different device/settings arrangement than what you will actually be watching true content through.
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post #17700 of 21674 Old 07-23-2014, 03:55 AM
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Originally Posted by DSperber View Post
I don't understand this thinking. If you do a TV calibration, wouldn't you want it to go through exactly the same video device chain and settings that you will eventually WATCH through? Why would you do your calibration through a device chain and with device settings that eliminated everything you will actually be using when you actually do watch something?
I meant for color calibration using a colorimeter and software with a video processor that has a color management system (CMS) like a Lumagen Radiance or Dvdo Duo.

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