Official OPPO BDP-103 Owner's Thread - Page 736 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Baselworld is only a few weeks away. Getting the latest news is easy, Click Here for info on how to join the Watchuseek.com newsletter list. Follow our team for updates featuring event coverage, new product unveilings, watch industry news & more!


Forum Jump: 
 624Likes
 
Thread Tools
Old 10-22-2015, 11:30 AM
Advanced Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 523
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 323 Post(s)
Liked: 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by DSperber View Post
But that's just my own personal HDTV-watching habits. YMMV. However what's important to me is to get absolutely best-possible image on my 65VT50 no matter what I watch, and given my own equipment there is absolutely no question passing all cable HDTV "native" 720p/1080i through the 103 to get supertb 1080p out, produces the best possible image on my 65VT50. That's what matters to me.
Same here - I can live with a few seconds delay if the picture is enhanced so much.
New24K is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 10-22-2015, 11:56 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
DSperber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Marina Del Rey, CA, USA
Posts: 5,587
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 171 Post(s)
Liked: 149
Quote:
Originally Posted by New24K View Post
Same here - I can live with a few seconds delay if the picture is enhanced so much.
Try it for yourself and see if there is a noticeable difference, or not so much. If it's noticeable, then it's worth it to make the change... especially if there is some new inconvenience that must be accommodated in order to change the setup. If it's not noticeable, and there are some advantages (i.e. no new inconvenience that must be accommodated) to keeping things just as they are with your setup, then go ahead and keep things the way they are.

But in my own experience, watching high-quality programs like "Homeland" and "Ray Donovan" through the 103, fed to the 103 as "native" 1080i from my TWC/LA cable system and delivered out of the 103 as cleaned/upconverted 1080p to my D-Nice calibrated 65VT50... well, it looks like BluRay 1080p. Gorgeous. Like I went to the movies at an Arclight theater.

I have tried bypassing the 103 and upconverting the cable source to 1080p in the cable box, and it's noticeably inferior. I've tried sending native 1080i to the 65VT50 and letting it do what it wants to for its own native display at 1080p, and again it's noticeably inferior.

But, try it for yourself and see what you think. Can't hurt, and it can only surprise you with the remarkable job the 103 does with its QDEO processing (I send HDMI-1 out of the 103 through my AVR and then on to my 65VT50). It's especially noticeable on the inferior cable channels which use higher compression and 720p, such as FX. The improvement provided by the 103 cleaning/upconverting to 1080p vs. feeding the original 720p source to the 65VT50 is again noticeable.
DSperber is online now  
Old 10-22-2015, 12:09 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
DSperber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Marina Del Rey, CA, USA
Posts: 5,587
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 171 Post(s)
Liked: 149
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanF8500 View Post
You must not be a sports enthusiast. I cringe at the thought of watching a recorded sports event, except if I wanted to watch a portion of the event or a few plays again.
Well, you're right. I'm not really a sports enthusiast who needs to be watching six games (of any sport) onscreen all at once. Closest I come is wanting to kind of watch multiple tennis matches at the same time while they're going on at the same time, if I could.

For me, my time is more important. I don't have 12-14 hours a day to watch tennis or golf (as is now the case with ESPN covering majors first-ball-to-last), although I really do want to watch all of it. I'd much rather avoid looking at the Internet or daily news shows so as to avoid spoilers, and instead start watching a few hours into the day. This allows me to skip commercials, and also to skip past uninteresting or idle segments or when a televised match is just not that interesting to me (generally only in the first week of a major or if I am not interested in the match's competitors). For me it's a huge advantage to NOT watch sports live, while still providing me all of the enjoyment I'm looking for. Golf is different, and I really do end up watching pretty much all 12-14 hours that they televise, just not exactly when they televise it.

This is also especially relevant during the Olympics when it's simply impossible to watch in a single day all that's broadcast in a single day. So I just record everything I can (I have LOTS of hard drive storage capacity) and watch it when I can, whenever I get around to it. With sports like Equestrian there is no real "thrill" as there is in other highly competitive glamour sports like swimming or track or gymnastics, so I can eventually watch the Equestrian events days or weeks or even months later, and be perfectly satisfied. That frees me to watch the much more "thrilling" sports in a more ongoing and semi-contemporary way.
DSperber is online now  
Old 10-22-2015, 12:15 PM
AVS Special Member
 
DanF8500's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 1,749
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 576 Post(s)
Liked: 281
I did not notice what I felt was an "improved" picture after feeding my fios STB sending native broadcast tv to my Oppo 105 as opposed to sending native resolution channels direct to my tv from my STB. What I noticed was a slight difference in picture detail (grain), and I concluded it was from the un-defeatable noise rejection from the QDEO processor out of the 103/105's hdmi-1 output. My F8500 display de-interlaces/upscales to its native resolution just fine!
AVfile likes this.

Last edited by DanF8500; 10-22-2015 at 12:18 PM.
DanF8500 is online now  
Old 10-22-2015, 12:21 PM
Advanced Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 523
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 323 Post(s)
Liked: 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanF8500 View Post
I did not notice what I felt was an "improved" picture after feeding my fios STB sending native broadcast tv to my Oppo 105 as opposed to sending native resolution channels direct to my tv from my STB. What I noticed was a slight difference in picture detail (grain), and I concluded it was from the un-defeatable noise rejection from the QDEO processor out of the 103/105's hdmi-1 output. My F8500 display de-interlaces/upscales to its native resolution just fine!
So there was no improved picture or their was?

You said you didn't notice an "improved" picture - but then said you did notice a difference in picture detail.
New24K is offline  
Old 10-22-2015, 12:32 PM
AVS Special Member
 
DanF8500's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 1,749
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 576 Post(s)
Liked: 281
Quote:
Originally Posted by New24K View Post
So there was no improved picture or their was?

You said you didn't notice an "improved" picture - but then said you did notice a difference in picture detail.
Noise rejection is an effect from the Oppo 103/105's QDEO video processor. If you are using the hdmi 1 output from your player, this noise rejection (even though slight) is present all the time. Noise rejection can help "clean" up a grainy broadcast (i.e. older movies), but I don't want it on "all" the time. This is not what I consider "improving" the picture, and I'm sure DSperber is suggesting that he is noticing something else in his picture other than a slight noise rejection effect.

You need to do the A-B comparison yourself, with your components. Having said this, I wouldn't even consider doing what DSperber suggested if you can't get your cable box to output "native" broadcast tv resolutions. Not all cable boxes(STB's) are able to do this.
DanF8500 is online now  
Old 10-22-2015, 01:03 PM
AVS Special Member
 
PM-Performance's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,040
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 214 Post(s)
Liked: 131
Today is a good day. Unlucky me though, the kids get to play with it before I even get home to enjoy it
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1862.jpg
Views:	148
Size:	189.5 KB
ID:	1010049   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1861.jpg
Views:	131
Size:	242.9 KB
ID:	1010057   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1860.jpg
Views:	106
Size:	249.8 KB
ID:	1010065   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1859.jpg
Views:	122
Size:	190.6 KB
ID:	1010073   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1858.jpg
Views:	112
Size:	214.0 KB
ID:	1010081  


Klipsch RF-82|RC-62|RS-52|RB-51, 2 SI 18's in Marty Cabs Powered by Inuke 3000DSP|
Denon AVR-X4000|Panasonic 65ST30|Panasonic BDP-220|Oppo BDP-103|Optoma HD131XE with Elite SableFrame 110"|
4 Aura Bass Shakers powered by Dayton PSA-250|4 Seatcraft 5131 seats
Apple TV3/FireTV/Chromecasts
PM-Performance is offline  
Old 10-22-2015, 02:49 PM
Advanced Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 523
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 323 Post(s)
Liked: 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanF8500 View Post
Noise rejection is an effect from the Oppo 103/105's QDEO video processor. If you are using the hdmi 1 output from your player, this noise rejection (even though slight) is present all the time. Noise rejection can help "clean" up a grainy broadcast (i.e. older movies), but I don't want it on "all" the time. This is not what I consider "improving" the picture, and I'm sure DSperber is suggesting that he is noticing something else in his picture other than a slight noise rejection effect.

You need to do the A-B comparison yourself, with your components. Having said this, I wouldn't even consider doing what DSperber suggested if you can't get your cable box to output "native" broadcast tv resolutions. Not all cable boxes(STB's) are able to do this.
So I assume this is where the 103D model comes in and does a better job.
New24K is offline  
Old 10-22-2015, 03:22 PM
AVS Special Member
 
DanF8500's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 1,749
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 576 Post(s)
Liked: 281
Quote:
Originally Posted by New24K View Post
So I assume this is where the 103D model comes in and does a better job.
I don't think it performs or makes the picture a lot better (speaking solely on video processor comparison between the D and non-D models), although if you are concerned about un-defeatable noise rejection, the 103D doesn't have this issue. However, if you want to apply Darbee effect to your cable tv broadcasts, and that improves the picture in a subtle way (most would agree to this) that's a bonus feature to wanting the D model.

Last edited by DanF8500; 10-22-2015 at 03:25 PM.
DanF8500 is online now  
Old 10-23-2015, 07:51 AM
Member
 
chileboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 173
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanF8500 View Post
I did not notice what I felt was an "improved" picture after feeding my fios STB sending native broadcast tv to my Oppo 105 as opposed to sending native resolution channels direct to my tv from my STB. What I noticed was a slight difference in picture detail (grain), and I concluded it was from the un-defeatable noise rejection from the QDEO processor out of the 103/105's hdmi-1 output. My F8500 display de-interlaces/upscales to its native resolution just fine!
You have almost the same setup as me - I have an Oppo 103, FiOS and F8500 display - and I haven't yet tried running the STB through the 103. It looks pretty amazing anyway.

But I'm curious as to what STB you have. When I moved recently, I got the Verizon FiOS Quantum, and my boxes now are Arris, which don't appear to be able to output native unfortunately. When I called Verizon about that, they told me the Arris boxes were the only ones compatible with Quantum, so I couldn't go back to a Motorola.

That being the case, I guess I need to experiment with 720p vs. 1080i output to the Oppo and see which looks better. I'm not inclined to have to change the STB resolution when I change channels (I can never remember which are 720p or 1080i, anyway).
chileboy is offline  
Old 10-23-2015, 08:49 AM
AVS Special Member
 
DanF8500's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 1,749
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 576 Post(s)
Liked: 281
^ I have a motorola STB (QIP-7232 model). I can set my STB into native mode from the hidden menu by selecting these 3 buttons in sequence: Power/TV, OK, Menu. Not sure about the Arris boxes and hidden menus. If you can't set your STB box to native, I would fix the resolution of all channels at 1080i. And if you have to do that, and you don't have the Darbee model of 103, I wouldn't bother feeding your STB thru your Oppo player.

Last edited by DanF8500; 10-23-2015 at 10:22 AM.
DanF8500 is online now  
Old 10-23-2015, 11:05 AM
Member
 
chileboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 173
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 10
^ Yeah, I had set my Motorola to native that way also, but unfortunately that doesn't work for the new box. Something to keep in mind before upgrading to Quantum (whose features otherwise are admittedly a big improvement over standard FiOS).

I do have the standard, non-Darbee 103, with the STB set to 1080i, so I'll take your advice and just leave things as they are. Thanks.

- Mark

Last edited by chileboy; 10-23-2015 at 11:07 AM. Reason: Superfluous quote
chileboy is offline  
Old 10-23-2015, 12:28 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
DSperber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Marina Del Rey, CA, USA
Posts: 5,587
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 171 Post(s)
Liked: 149
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanF8500 View Post
^ I have a motorola STB (QIP-7232 model). I can set my STB into native mode from the hidden menu by selecting these 3 buttons in sequence: Power/TV, OK, Menu. Not sure about the Arris boxes and hidden menus. If you can't set your STB box to native, I would fix the resolution of all channels at 1080i. And if you have to do that, and you don't have the Darbee model of 103, I wouldn't bother feeding your STB thru your Oppo player.
In the absence of an available "native" setting on your DVR/STB, there's no question that it now adds an obvious downside to wanting to use the Oppo as a cleaner/upconverter to 1080p to feed the display. You now have to manually change the output resolution of the source box to 720p or 1080i to match the source resolution of the program you're watching (either live or recorded), as if you were the "native" mechanism. And then depending on how much work and time and effort that involves (not to mention WAF), you may not want to do this.

So, given you have instead chosen to live with a single resolution and you want to run through the Oppo, which one do you choose: 720p, 1080i, or possibly a box-produced 1080p? And do you just live with it forever, or are you willing to manually change it on occasion?

Well, fixing 720p output from the DVR/STB will then down-convert and deinterlace 1080i programs. But if you watch lots of stuff on the complete set of FOX and ESPN/ABC families of channels and also watch lots of NGC, then you're watching lots of 720p content as "native 720p" (which is good), which purports to provide "better image for high-speed motion" (like high speed sports) than 1080i does. But all the other 1080i channels will have to be down-converted and de-interlaced to 720p by the video processing electronics in your cable company provided DVR/STB. Assuming you felt the Oppo video processing electronics was superior to that of the DVR/STB for upconverting 720p/1080i to 1080p, why would you now prefer the DVR/STB to do your 1080i downconverting to 720p?

On the other hand, if FOX, ESPN/ABC and NGC are a lesser portion of your HDTV watching, then you're now watching 1080i as "native 1080i" (which is good), since every other channel is 1080i which purports to provide "better detail and sharpness and clarity" for images that don't have much motion (e.g. studio shows, relatively stationary sports like golf, etc.). So if you set your DVR/STB to a fixed 1080i output, that will now produce the best results for most of the channels you watch. But all 720p channels will now have to be upconverted and interlaced to 1080i (badly deteriorating good 720p image quality into "faux artificially interlaced 1080i" in my own opinion and experience). If high quality 720p for sports was what you liked, why would you reduce it to "faux 1080i"?

What about the third option of letting the DVR/STB do the upconvert from 720p/1080i to 1080p, if that's an option on the box? Possibly/probably the Oppo would do a better job of this than the DVR/STB will. But given the options and consequences I think I'd rather go from 720p->1080p or 1080i->1080p in the box and then into the Oppo where no upconversion to 1080o would then be needed but QDEO cleanup would still take place, than either (a) 720p->1080i in the box and straight 1080i into the Oppo for cleanup/upconverting to 1080p, or (b) 1080i->720p in the box and straight 720p into the Oppo for cleanup/upconverting to 1080p, just to keep the box at either fixed output resolution so as to avoid manual involvement when you change channels.

Obviously, none of these options is really desirable in my opinion. If only "native" were available that would certainly simplify things (at the cost of the occasional 1-2 second HDMI handshake). As to whether you want to consider picking one of the three possible fixed output resolutions from your DVR/STB depends on how valuable and significant whatever the Oppo can provide in your particular setup configuration can be seen on the display screen. It may well be worth your manual effort for a few seconds of reconfiguration if the image improvement from a different manual setting is very apparent to all concerned. Or, it may not.

I have precisely that dilemma with my own Windows Media Center alternative solution to TWC/LA cable system DVRs, where I've chosen to support my "whole home solution" and its five HDTV viewing locations through WMC rather than TWC/LA. I subscribe to TWC/LA for cable service, but have Ceton and Hauppauge TV tuner cards in my HTPC. I also have whole-house ethernet cabling and WMC and Linksys DMA2100 "extenders" (instead of TWC/LA DVR/STB boxes) at each of the five HDTV locations, instead of coax cable and TWC/LA DVRs. Since unfortunately the DMA2100 does not have a "native" output option, I need to pick either 720p or 1080i output, with the reconfiguration from one to the other unfortunately taking about 45 seconds if I want to change.

My "solution" is, again, to only watch recorded programs virtually 100%, and even then to choose "batches of 720p or 1080i programs to watch consecutively". I can choose whatever I want to watch in this way, and actually do "serialize my watching" of 720p and 1080i programs, strictly so that I can avoid spending the 45 seconds it takes to change resolutions on the DMA2100 and reconnect to WMC and actually resume watching content again. This "solution" doesn't prevent me from doing anything I want, with any resolution 720p or 1080i currently in effect, and then I can watch for many hours consecutively doing nothing extra manual. I'm conceptually never changing channels when I watch consecutive recorded programs all at the same 720p or 1080i resolution so as to simplify my life. Or, if it's a sudden impulse, I can just invest the needed 45 seconds to change the DMA2100 and switch to the other resolution to now watch a program of the other resolution.

Note that while all five of my HDTV locations have DMA2100 boxes as the DVR/STB, only one of those locations has an Oppo 103. But I still have the same viewing habit of setting the DMA2100 ro 720p or 1080i manually whenever I watch any program at any location. Whether it's feeding a DMA2100 to an HDTV display directly or running the DMA2100 through the Oppo if possible, my own experience is that eliminating cable company DVR/STB or DMA2100 video processing and delivering "native source program resolution" to either the HDTV display (for its own upconversion to 1080p native display resolution) or to the Oppo for cleanup/upconversion to 1080p will produce the best image results.

And for me, no matter what small extra manual effort might be occasionally required, I want to watch the best possible image on my display screen no matter whether I'm watching tennis, golf, football, studio shows, talk shows, HBO/SHO, FX/IFC/SUND, MSNBC, E!/COM, Olympics, etc., whatever. It ALL gets watched pre-recorded, whenever I want and with commercial skipping, and with "manually implemented native" source program resolution feeding untouched-by-the-DMA2100 native 720p or 1080i source content directly to either the attached HDTV or the Oppo. For me and my setup, that produces the best possible image results on the display.

In particular, I've found that watching my favorite programs (e.g. "Justified" and "The Americans" and "Mad Men" and "Better Call Saul", etc.) on the more highly compressed channels like FX and AMC, definitely produces better image results through the Oppo than without it.

But that's just me and my equipment setup. Obviously YMMV.

Last edited by DSperber; 10-23-2015 at 12:40 PM.
DSperber is online now  
Old 10-23-2015, 12:47 PM
AVS Special Member
 
DanF8500's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 1,749
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 576 Post(s)
Liked: 281
^ You should write a book on the subject. You certainly don't lack the words. Just kidding...thorough writeup!
DanF8500 is online now  
Old 10-23-2015, 05:16 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
biliam1982's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Daytona Beach, FL
Posts: 1,112
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 183 Post(s)
Liked: 83
@DSperber ,how do you know if the original material is 720p or 1080i?

I'll have to check what the options are in the settings.

Last I checked, there was only 720p, 1080i and auto.

I'm getting lost in this discussion and confused about how to clean up the cable's image.

Sometimes it looks ok but mostly terrible.

Maybe it's time to cut the cord again.
biliam1982 is online now  
Old 10-23-2015, 05:32 PM
Senior Member
 
CRFTony's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 275
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Forgive me if this has been previously discussed, but a thread search didn't yield any results. I'm trying to use my 103 with my Harmony One remote. Everything works fine except for the fact that I can't change the inputs using the Harmony remote. I've tried going into the remote software and changing things around but haven't had any luck. Has anyone else had this problem and been able to fix it?
CRFTony is offline  
Old 10-23-2015, 06:30 PM
Read the FAQ!
 
Bob Pariseau's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 29,087
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1226 Post(s)
Liked: 1285
Quote:
Originally Posted by CRFTony View Post
Forgive me if this has been previously discussed, but a thread search didn't yield any results. I'm trying to use my 103 with my Harmony One remote. Everything works fine except for the fact that I can't change the inputs using the Harmony remote. I've tried going into the remote software and changing things around but haven't had any luck. Has anyone else had this problem and been able to fix it?
There's a whole forum here where the Harmony experts hang out.

Basically, you need to change the Device (not Activities) configuration for the 103 so the Input changes are accomplished with a specific button combo instead of trying to cycle around to the Input you want. The specific combo is the Input button followed by a number button. For example, Input-3 gets you to the third line of the Input pop up menu. Try it with the regular 103 remote and you'll see what I mean. You may also need to adjust the Delay After Input Change, which holds off sending additional commands to the 103 for the specified time each time you tell the 103 to change Inputs.
--Bob
Bob Pariseau is offline  
Old 10-23-2015, 06:49 PM
Read the FAQ!
 
Bob Pariseau's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 29,087
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1226 Post(s)
Liked: 1285
Quote:
Originally Posted by biliam1982 View Post
@DSperber ,how do you know if the original material is 720p or 1080i?

I'll have to check what the options are in the settings.

Last I checked, there was only 720p, 1080i and auto.

I'm getting lost in this discussion and confused about how to clean up the cable's image.

Sometimes it looks ok but mostly terrible.

Maybe it's time to cut the cord again.
There's a forum here where people discuss what's being carried on each local cable system. Check there for which HD channels are 720p. The rest will be 1080i. SD channels will all be 480i.

Note that for local channels, such as your local ABC affiliate, locally produced content such as commercials may be sent out as 1080i, while the network feed is still 720p.

Generally speaking, HD channels owned by ABC, FOX, and Disney are 720p. The rest are 1080i. Some of the Disney owned channels will have names that don't mention Disney.

720p and 1080i at a given frame rate carry the same amount of information per second. 720p, since it is not interlaced, tends to be better when stuff is in motion, such as live sports. 1080i on the other hand gives better detail when things are more static.

This "same amount of information" stuff is no accident. Broadcast channels get allotted the same frequency bandwidth, which must suffice for either signal.

Cable and Satellite boxes are notorious for having godawful video processing. Some TV channels are screwed up before they go out to you and there's nothing you can do about that. The information is already lost. Permanently. But you CAN minimize the ADDITIONAL damage your cable or satellite box does by having it output the identical signal to what's coming in on each channel. That's what "Native" output is supposed to do. You can accomplish the same thing by manually changing the box's output.

The idea being that you feed that "native" signal direct to your TV, or through the OPPO which converts it to 1080p, to minimize the amount of video processing the cable or satellite box is screwing up.
--Bob
Bob Pariseau is offline  
Old 10-23-2015, 09:17 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
rdgrimes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Nuevo Mexico
Posts: 17,805
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1149 Post(s)
Liked: 556
Quote:
Originally Posted by CRFTony View Post
Forgive me if this has been previously discussed, but a thread search didn't yield any results. I'm trying to use my 103 with my Harmony One remote. Everything works fine except for the fact that I can't change the inputs using the Harmony remote. I've tried going into the remote software and changing things around but haven't had any luck. Has anyone else had this problem and been able to fix it?
Harmony lists the 103/103D as "Oppo Home Theater". The "input" command is available there. If you use "Oppo DVD Player" from the device list, you won't have the full set of commands available.
rdgrimes is offline  
Old 10-23-2015, 11:38 PM
Member
 
linger63's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 130
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 78 Post(s)
Liked: 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by DSperber View Post
Try it for yourself and see if there is a noticeable difference, or not so much. If it's noticeable, then it's worth it to make the change... especially if there is some new inconvenience that must be accommodated in order to change the setup. If it's not noticeable, and there are some advantages (i.e. no new inconvenience that must be accommodated) to keeping things just as they are with your setup, then go ahead and keep things the way they are.

But in my own experience, watching high-quality programs like "Homeland" and "Ray Donovan" through the 103, fed to the 103 as "native" 1080i from my TWC/LA cable system and delivered out of the 103 as cleaned/upconverted 1080p to my D-Nice calibrated 65VT50... well, it looks like BluRay 1080p. Gorgeous. Like I went to the movies at an Arclight theater.

I have tried bypassing the 103 and upconverting the cable source to 1080p in the cable box, and it's noticeably inferior. I've tried sending native 1080i to the 65VT50 and letting it do what it wants to for its own native display at 1080p, and again it's noticeably inferior.

But, try it for yourself and see what you think. Can't hurt, and it can only surprise you with the remarkable job the 103 does with its QDEO processing (I send HDMI-1 out of the 103 through my AVR and then on to my 65VT50). It's especially noticeable on the inferior cable channels which use higher compression and 720p, such as FX. The improvement provided by the 103 cleaning/upconverting to 1080p vs. feeding the original 720p source to the 65VT50 is again noticeable.



Hi,


Just wondering WHY you connect the OPPO's HDMI 1 to your AVR?

You obviously care about video quality and seem VERY happy with the OPPO's video processing.

Why then not just go DIRECT from the OPPO's HDMI 1 to your Panasonic to FULLY optimise your PQ and use HDMI 2 for audio to your AVR?

It needs to be connected anyway if you want/need proper SACD playback (DSD)

Isn't that one of the main reasons OPPO gave it 2 HDMI outs in the first place?

Also your Panasonic has 4 HDMI inputs to choose from.....isn't that enough?

Even if you had heaps of gear you would still let the OPPO have it's own direct connection wouldn't you?.......especially as you are hooking up other sources to go through it.

I would just like to understand.......sorry if I am missing something!!


Cheers

Last edited by linger63; 10-24-2015 at 12:06 AM.
linger63 is offline  
Old 10-24-2015, 12:03 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
DSperber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Marina Del Rey, CA, USA
Posts: 5,587
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 171 Post(s)
Liked: 149
Quote:
Originally Posted by biliam1982 View Post
Last I checked, there was only 720p, 1080i and auto.
Without your saying what the brand/model is of the equipment you're talking about, my guess is that these three options are simply three choices of "fixed" output resolutions from the box, and that it does not contain a fourth "native" option.

AUTO is simply a commonly provided option to set the output resolution of the box to whatever is the highest resolution acceptable to the connected display device, as determined through an HDMI handshake. Typically this would result in a third "fixed" option of 1080p to go along with the other two "fixed" options of 720p and 1080i, but in theory it might be lower than 1080p.

However no matter which of these three choices you make, the result is that you're setting the box to always put out that fixed resolution to the HDMI-connected device (either HDTV, or AVR, or Oppo). If the source program/recording you're watching is at a different resolution, then the box will kick its video processing into action. If the source program/recording you're watching is at the same resolution as your "fixed' output option choice, then the box's video processing is inhibited.

So, even today and even if you don't involve feeding the box's output to the Oppo, you are getting video processing from your DVR/STB anytime your source program/recording is at a different resolution than whichever of these three output resolution options you currently have in effect. That's a fact.

The only way to "defeat" all video processing in the box is to manually change, if necessary, the output resolution setting of the box to match the source program resolution you are currently watching. If you change channels/recording to a different source resolution, you also must change the box's output resolution to match. Thus YOU become the manually implemented "native" option that could have done this for you automatically, had that option been provided in the box. You'll get the best possible image on your display, but it will involve manual labor... since "native" from the box was not available.
DSperber is online now  
Old 10-24-2015, 12:54 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
DSperber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Marina Del Rey, CA, USA
Posts: 5,587
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 171 Post(s)
Liked: 149
Quote:
Originally Posted by linger63 View Post
Hi,

Just wondering WHY you connect the OPPO's HDMI 1 to your AVR?

You obviously care about video quality and seem VERY happy with the OPPO's video processing.

Why then not just go DIRECT from the OPPO's HDMI 1 to your Panasonic to FULLY optimise your PQ and use HDMI 2 for audio to your AVR?
As with most things in life, the real story is always a bit more complicated than what you first thought.

Actually, I bought the Oppo for several reasons, only one of which was to support HDMI-input of HDTV and benefit from the cleanup/upconvert possible from its video processing. Another reason, as you've suggested, is to be able to use HDMI-2 output for audio-only, while allowing HDMI-1 to be used for video-only (either directly to a connected display, or through an AVR). And yet one more reason I bought it is that the Oppo can decode all of the modern multi-channel source audio codecs to produce multi-channel LPCM output from its HDMI-2 connector.

Although I didn't mention it previously, I don't actually have a loudspeaker-based multi-channel audio system to support my viewing. I do have a 2-channel speaker-based system for "everyday ordinary watching/listening" (supported by "party mode" from my Yamaha RX-V867 AVR), but for serious multi-channel audio listening enjoyment (in the absence of the true 5.1 or 7.1 high-end speaker setup I'd love to have, which is unfortunately impossible to support in my 3rd-floor condo) I have implemented a headphone-based simulated multi-channel substitute.

My headphone system is driven by a Smyth A8 Realiser, fed with HDMI input via the multi-channel discrete LPCM output from the Oppo's HDMI-2 connector. Since the Realiser does not itself contain any proprietary CODEC decoding capability, it relies entirely on receiving already-decoded discrete 2.1/5.1/7.1 multi-channel input in LPCM format via HDMI. The Oppo is the only box I've discovered that will do that decoding to LPCM with HDMI output, of all the usual 5.1/7.1 source audio formats both lossy and lossless. No AVR I've found will do this.

So in order to support my HDMI-enabled Realiser that drives my headphone system, I needed the Oppo. I could not feed the Realiser from my AVR, since decoded LPCM output to HDMI was not possible from the AVR.

To complete the equipment picture, the Realiser has both RCA analog headphone output (making use of DAC's in the Realiser) which I don't use, as well as optical headphone output which I do use and feed to my external Audio-GD NFB-9 DAC. I then feed the XLR balanced output of the DAC to the XLR balanced input of my tube-based Stax SRM-007tii headphone amp, which feeds my Stax SR-009 headphones.

If you've not heard of the Smyth A8 Realiser, it is a device whose purpose is to "duplicate how any listening environment sounds, through headphones", as determined by a "PRIR measurement" done using calibrated microphones inserted into the listener's ears, while the Realiser generates a sequence of sweep signals through every speaker in the listening environment. The result is a digital file (i.e. PRIR) which "describes" the characteristics of that listening environment in such a way, and in such precise detail, that when the PRIR is then used "in reverse" (i.e. during playback of any new multi-channel audio source content through the Realiser and that PRIR file) it will appear to the listener through headphones, to sound "EXACTLY" as if that audio was being played through the original speakers in the original listening environment and the listener was in that same chair actually hearing the sound played through those real speakers.

One more measurement (still through the calibrated microphones in your ears) is involved to complete the Realiser's capability of properly reproducing the sound of a listening environment. And that is the measurement of your headphone amp and headphones (my Stax SRM-007tii/SR-009), producing a separate digital file named HPEQ. This file corresponds to your headphone and amp, describing its audio characteristics in such a way that during playback the Realiser can apply the proper EQ adjustments in order to even more precisely duplicate the original listening environment's sound.

So "playback" (i.e. listening to any audio source) through the Realiser involves selecting (a) a PRIR, describing the listening environment itself, and (b) an HPEQ, describing the headphones you're listening through. Believe me, THIS IS NOT DOLBY HEADPHONE!!!!!

The Realiser is not trying to "optimize" anything, so as to produce a "best possible sound". It's purpose is, instead, to DUPLICATE ANY MULTI-CHANNEL LISTENING ENVIRONMENT PRECISELY, THROUGH HEADPHONES... however good or bad that original listening environment was.

So, I was lucky enough (i.e. paid money for 1 hour of high-end studio/theater rental time containing 5.1 or 7.1 speaker systems, so that I could perform the necessary PRIR measurements for that particular high-end audio environment) to be able to "capture" a collection of several different PRIR's at several different "listening environments" in the LA area. So I now have my own private set of PRIR's, each of which "duplicates" the sound of that original listening environment when used to listen to HDTV or BluRay or CD-audio through my headphones. I use a 5.1 PRIR to listen to 5.1 audio source, and a 7.1 PRIR to listen to 7.1 audio source.

As it turns out, I was fortunate enough to be able to get a PRIR created at the remarkable mixing room of AIX Records in LA. They produce some amazing stuff, both audio and video. They have both standard 5.1 and 7.1 setups (which I have PRIR's for), as well as THX (which I don't have). Anyway, because of the remarkable sound of their listening environment I have simply reverted to always using my AIX PRIR (either 5.1 or 7.1, as needed for the audio source) whenever I watch/listen to HDTV or BluRay/DVD movies.

Now back to your question. Since I do want to be able to support regular 2-speaker sound for ordinary non-critical listening, I have routed HDMI-1 output of the Oppo to my AVR (rather than directly to my display). HDMI-1 thus contains audio and video to go through the AVR, when I'm just using the 2-speaker arrangement. The Realiser is powered off, so the Oppo routes audio and video through HDMI-1 output.

HDMI-2 of the Oppo goes to the Realiser (which is now powered on), for when I use it. The Oppo senses the presence of a HDMI-2 device and activates "split A/V", sending video-only out HDMI-1 and audio-only out HDMI-2. The AVR (which also has its own two HDMI outputs) feeds my 65VT50 for video from its own HDMI-1 output. The second HDMI-2 output from the AVR goes to my old Sony 34XBR960 which is also still in the setup, although it's due for sale and removal in November.

And when the Realiser is powered off and I want sound through my 2 speakers, the AVR also supports the 2-speaker audio (via "party mode"), down-mixing the multi-channel audio coming from the Oppo's HDMI-1 (along with video, when running in this mode) to 2-channel stereo for delivery to my two speakers. When using the Realiser and headphones for "serious listening", the Realiser is powered on and thus triggers the Oppo to deliver video-only out of HDMI-1, and decoded discrete multi-channel LPCM out of HDMI-2, feeding the Realiser's HDMI input.

The Audio-GD/NFB9 and Stax SRM-007tii/SR-009 headphone setup is truly remarkable to listen to. And the Realiser-based AIX-PRIR "virtual 5.1/7.1 multi-speaker listening environment" is truly like being there. And it's all "digital audio" from source through the Oppo and on into the Realiser where "virtual surround" processing takes place in the digital domain, and then on via optical to the DAC where things audio finally become glorious analog.

That's my story.

Last edited by DSperber; 10-24-2015 at 01:27 AM.
DSperber is online now  
Old 10-24-2015, 01:03 AM
Member
 
linger63's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 130
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 78 Post(s)
Liked: 41
DSperber,




That's a major story!!!!


Thanks for such a detailed response.




Cheers
linger63 is offline  
Old 10-24-2015, 04:50 PM
Newbie
 
pcconsultant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Question OPPO BDP-103 On The Way--Set Up Questions

Good day all...sort of a long question, please bear with me!

I posted the following question to tech support and basically the response was to use analog connections, but they failed to answer my subwoofer questions. Also, I prefer to keep my optical connection for basically all audio minus SACD/DVD-Audio. I would use (RCA) analog to another available input on my Denon receiver. This also keeps just two RCA and 1 optical to the Denon from Oppo (maybe three RCA if the consensus is to use subwoofer out on the Oppo).

My question:Good day. I am soon to be a new owner of a BDP 103 and am excited! While waiting I am spending some time with the online manual and had a few questions that I'd like to try to answer to prevent multiple testing when my machine arrives.
I currently have a Denon AVR-681 receiver that has optical as well as RCA inputs. For my current Bluray watching I go HDMI out to the TV. I go optical out to receiver. Receiver has a subwoofer preout (one RCA) that is connected to a subwoofer. I only use front left, front right and subwoofer while listening to music and this works well. The Denon does not have an hdmi input.

Post-Oppo, I will still go Oppo hdmi out to TV for viewing. I will still go optical out Oppo to Denon to listen to CD. Regarding SACD, here is my plan that I would like your opinion on: I would like to come out Oppo front left and front right (RCA) to another available Denon input (selecting that input when listening to SACD). I know from reading the manual to select Down mix stereo in the Setup menu. I think this will allow SACD sound at its full quality but what of Subwoofer? Should I continue to have it connected directly to Denon? Or connect it instead to Oppo Sub out? Ideally I want it to be active while listening to either the optical out OR the RCA output (while listening to SACD) of the Oppo. The choices that I see are out of my Denon as it is now, out of the Oppo sub out, or out of the Oppo (RCA) SW out (which I think is wrong as the Down Mix Stereo option may kill it going this route).

So that is my question to all you audiophiles...any suggestions or am I going to have to plug and pray and test?

What I want is basically how I am set up now with the addition of high-fidelity from SACD/DVD-Audio/BluRay Audio (staying 2.1---left, right & a subwoofer). If SACD were passed on the optical this wouldn't even be an issue.

THANK YOU!

Quick edit...while I still have the subwoofer question, it seems that to utilize the quality DAC of the Oppo, I MUST go RCA!

Last edited by pcconsultant; 10-24-2015 at 05:09 PM. Reason: New info to add
pcconsultant is offline  
Old 10-25-2015, 07:09 AM
Member
 
ajaxmike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Ajax (Toronto) Canada
Posts: 147
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by DSperber View Post
As with most things in life, the real story is always a bit more complicated than what you first thought.

Actually, I bought the Oppo for several reasons, only one of which was to support HDMI-input of HDTV and benefit from the cleanup/upconvert possible from its video processing. Another reason, as you've suggested, is to be able to use HDMI-2 output for audio-only, while allowing HDMI-1 to be used for video-only (either directly to a connected display, or through an AVR). And yet one more reason I bought it is that the Oppo can decode all of the modern multi-channel source audio codecs to produce multi-channel LPCM output from its HDMI-2 connector.

Although I didn't mention it previously, I don't actually have a loudspeaker-based multi-channel audio system to support my viewing. I do have a 2-channel speaker-based system for "everyday ordinary watching/listening" (supported by "party mode" from my Yamaha RX-V867 AVR), but for serious multi-channel audio listening enjoyment (in the absence of the true 5.1 or 7.1 high-end speaker setup I'd love to have, which is unfortunately impossible to support in my 3rd-floor condo) I have implemented a headphone-based simulated multi-channel substitute.

My headphone system is driven by a Smyth A8 Realiser, fed with HDMI input via the multi-channel discrete LPCM output from the Oppo's HDMI-2 connector. Since the Realiser does not itself contain any proprietary CODEC decoding capability, it relies entirely on receiving already-decoded discrete 2.1/5.1/7.1 multi-channel input in LPCM format via HDMI. The Oppo is the only box I've discovered that will do that decoding to LPCM with HDMI output, of all the usual 5.1/7.1 source audio formats both lossy and lossless. No AVR I've found will do this.

So in order to support my HDMI-enabled Realiser that drives my headphone system, I needed the Oppo. I could not feed the Realiser from my AVR, since decoded LPCM output to HDMI was not possible from the AVR.

To complete the equipment picture, the Realiser has both RCA analog headphone output (making use of DAC's in the Realiser) which I don't use, as well as optical headphone output which I do use and feed to my external Audio-GD NFB-9 DAC. I then feed the XLR balanced output of the DAC to the XLR balanced input of my tube-based Stax SRM-007tii headphone amp, which feeds my Stax SR-009 headphones.

If you've not heard of the Smyth A8 Realiser, it is a device whose purpose is to "duplicate how any listening environment sounds, through headphones", as determined by a "PRIR measurement" done using calibrated microphones inserted into the listener's ears, while the Realiser generates a sequence of sweep signals through every speaker in the listening environment. The result is a digital file (i.e. PRIR) which "describes" the characteristics of that listening environment in such a way, and in such precise detail, that when the PRIR is then used "in reverse" (i.e. during playback of any new multi-channel audio source content through the Realiser and that PRIR file) it will appear to the listener through headphones, to sound "EXACTLY" as if that audio was being played through the original speakers in the original listening environment and the listener was in that same chair actually hearing the sound played through those real speakers.

One more measurement (still through the calibrated microphones in your ears) is involved to complete the Realiser's capability of properly reproducing the sound of a listening environment. And that is the measurement of your headphone amp and headphones (my Stax SRM-007tii/SR-009), producing a separate digital file named HPEQ. This file corresponds to your headphone and amp, describing its audio characteristics in such a way that during playback the Realiser can apply the proper EQ adjustments in order to even more precisely duplicate the original listening environment's sound.

So "playback" (i.e. listening to any audio source) through the Realiser involves selecting (a) a PRIR, describing the listening environment itself, and (b) an HPEQ, describing the headphones you're listening through. Believe me, THIS IS NOT DOLBY HEADPHONE!!!!!

The Realiser is not trying to "optimize" anything, so as to produce a "best possible sound". It's purpose is, instead, to DUPLICATE ANY MULTI-CHANNEL LISTENING ENVIRONMENT PRECISELY, THROUGH HEADPHONES... however good or bad that original listening environment was.

So, I was lucky enough (i.e. paid money for 1 hour of high-end studio/theater rental time containing 5.1 or 7.1 speaker systems, so that I could perform the necessary PRIR measurements for that particular high-end audio environment) to be able to "capture" a collection of several different PRIR's at several different "listening environments" in the LA area. So I now have my own private set of PRIR's, each of which "duplicates" the sound of that original listening environment when used to listen to HDTV or BluRay or CD-audio through my headphones. I use a 5.1 PRIR to listen to 5.1 audio source, and a 7.1 PRIR to listen to 7.1 audio source.

As it turns out, I was fortunate enough to be able to get a PRIR created at the remarkable mixing room of AIX Records in LA. They produce some amazing stuff, both audio and video. They have both standard 5.1 and 7.1 setups (which I have PRIR's for), as well as THX (which I don't have). Anyway, because of the remarkable sound of their listening environment I have simply reverted to always using my AIX PRIR (either 5.1 or 7.1, as needed for the audio source) whenever I watch/listen to HDTV or BluRay/DVD movies.

Now back to your question. Since I do want to be able to support regular 2-speaker sound for ordinary non-critical listening, I have routed HDMI-1 output of the Oppo to my AVR (rather than directly to my display). HDMI-1 thus contains audio and video to go through the AVR, when I'm just using the 2-speaker arrangement. The Realiser is powered off, so the Oppo routes audio and video through HDMI-1 output.

HDMI-2 of the Oppo goes to the Realiser (which is now powered on), for when I use it. The Oppo senses the presence of a HDMI-2 device and activates "split A/V", sending video-only out HDMI-1 and audio-only out HDMI-2. The AVR (which also has its own two HDMI outputs) feeds my 65VT50 for video from its own HDMI-1 output. The second HDMI-2 output from the AVR goes to my old Sony 34XBR960 which is also still in the setup, although it's due for sale and removal in November.

And when the Realiser is powered off and I want sound through my 2 speakers, the AVR also supports the 2-speaker audio (via "party mode"), down-mixing the multi-channel audio coming from the Oppo's HDMI-1 (along with video, when running in this mode) to 2-channel stereo for delivery to my two speakers. When using the Realiser and headphones for "serious listening", the Realiser is powered on and thus triggers the Oppo to deliver video-only out of HDMI-1, and decoded discrete multi-channel LPCM out of HDMI-2, feeding the Realiser's HDMI input.

The Audio-GD/NFB9 and Stax SRM-007tii/SR-009 headphone setup is truly remarkable to listen to. And the Realiser-based AIX-PRIR "virtual 5.1/7.1 multi-speaker listening environment" is truly like being there. And it's all "digital audio" from source through the Oppo and on into the Realiser where "virtual surround" processing takes place in the digital domain, and then on via optical to the DAC where things audio finally become glorious analog.

That's my story.
That's a cool setup. I would have thought that the manufacturer of the Realiser would have included several files of great sounding rooms.
ajaxmike is offline  
Old 10-25-2015, 08:25 AM
gsr
Oppo Beta Group
 
gsr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Massachusetts, USA
Posts: 8,536
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 691 Post(s)
Liked: 526
Quote:
Originally Posted by pcconsultant View Post
Good day all...sort of a long question, please bear with me!

I posted the following question to tech support and basically the response was to use analog connections, but they failed to answer my subwoofer questions. Also, I prefer to keep my optical connection for basically all audio minus SACD/DVD-Audio. I would use (RCA) analog to another available input on my Denon receiver. This also keeps just two RCA and 1 optical to the Denon from Oppo (maybe three RCA if the consensus is to use subwoofer out on the Oppo).

My question:Good day. I am soon to be a new owner of a BDP 103 and am excited! While waiting I am spending some time with the online manual and had a few questions that I'd like to try to answer to prevent multiple testing when my machine arrives.
I currently have a Denon AVR-681 receiver that has optical as well as RCA inputs. For my current Bluray watching I go HDMI out to the TV. I go optical out to receiver. Receiver has a subwoofer preout (one RCA) that is connected to a subwoofer. I only use front left, front right and subwoofer while listening to music and this works well. The Denon does not have an hdmi input.

Post-Oppo, I will still go Oppo hdmi out to TV for viewing. I will still go optical out Oppo to Denon to listen to CD. Regarding SACD, here is my plan that I would like your opinion on: I would like to come out Oppo front left and front right (RCA) to another available Denon input (selecting that input when listening to SACD). I know from reading the manual to select Down mix stereo in the Setup menu. I think this will allow SACD sound at its full quality but what of Subwoofer? Should I continue to have it connected directly to Denon? Or connect it instead to Oppo Sub out? Ideally I want it to be active while listening to either the optical out OR the RCA output (while listening to SACD) of the Oppo. The choices that I see are out of my Denon as it is now, out of the Oppo sub out, or out of the Oppo (RCA) SW out (which I think is wrong as the Down Mix Stereo option may kill it going this route).

So that is my question to all you audiophiles...any suggestions or am I going to have to plug and pray and test?

What I want is basically how I am set up now with the addition of high-fidelity from SACD/DVD-Audio/BluRay Audio (staying 2.1---left, right & a subwoofer). If SACD were passed on the optical this wouldn't even be an issue.

THANK YOU!

Quick edit...while I still have the subwoofer question, it seems that to utilize the quality DAC of the Oppo, I MUST go RCA!
It looks like your Denon AVR has a 6 channel analog input. Given that you don't have the option of sending audio to your receiver via HDMI, the option that will give you the best audio quality for all formats is going to be to connect the multichannel analog audio outputs from the Oppo to the multichannel analog audio input (most likely labeled "Ext. In") on your Denon. This will allow your subwoofer to be utilized for all formats and use the Oppo's DAC for all formats. Set the Oppo to output a 5.1 downmix since your AVR has a 5.1 channel input rather than a 7.1 channel input. And assuming your AVR doesn't do any processing at all on the multichannel input, you'll want to set all of your speakers to small in the Oppo and configure a subwoofer crossover frequency that's appropriate for your speakers - 80Hz is usually a good starting point.

If you use the toslink optical output for Bluray movies, for example, that can't pass the high resolution lossless audio formats such as Dolby True HD and DTS HD Master Audio, so those must be output in a lossy format which won't sound as good. Additionally, toslink can't carry audio from SACD's at all (even if converted to PCM) due to licensing restrictions, so you'll have to use the analog outputs for that.
gsr is online now  
Old 10-25-2015, 08:58 AM
Read the FAQ!
 
Bob Pariseau's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 29,087
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1226 Post(s)
Liked: 1285
Quote:
Originally Posted by pcconsultant View Post
. . . .
Quick edit...while I still have the subwoofer question, it seems that to utilize the quality DAC of the Oppo, I MUST go RCA!
Correct. The DACs (Digital to Analog Converters) are only in the audio signal path when you use the ANALOG audio outputs of the OPPO.

The HDMI and S/PDIF (Optical and Coax) outputs carry only Digital audio signals.
--Bob

Anthem D2/D2v/AVM50/AVM50v/ARC1 tweaking guide. -- Need personal consultation/training? PM me!
Bob Pariseau is offline  
Old 10-25-2015, 09:10 AM
Newbie
 
pcconsultant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post
Correct. The DACs (Digital to Analog Converters) are only in the audio signal path when you use the ANALOG audio outputs of the OPPO.

The HDMI and S/PDIF (Optical and Coax) outputs carry only Digital audio signals.
--Bob
Thanks you guys!
Yes, after more exploring the EXT IN on the Denon is the way to go. No affecting the signal that way either as I have found out.

Looks like the only experimenting I will have to do is with the OPPO down mix settings. I had thought a down mix to stereo, but that MIGHT not on-pass the subwoofer channel even if it is connected from the OPPO out to SW in of the Denon. If it does not I would assume using the down mix to 5.1 and just not connect the other physical outputs from the OPPO to the Denon. Or do you think I should definitely select 5.1 and then follow gsr's recommendation of setting the speakers to small & setting subwoofer frequencies in the OPPO (yes- the Denon does not process anything at the EXT IN input).
THANK YOU!
-Doug
pcconsultant is offline  
Old 10-25-2015, 09:10 AM
Newbie
 
pcconsultant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post
Correct. The DACs (Digital to Analog Converters) are only in the audio signal path when you use the ANALOG audio outputs of the OPPO.

The HDMI and S/PDIF (Optical and Coax) outputs carry only Digital audio signals.
--Bob
Thanks you guys!
Yes, after more exploring the EXT IN on the Denon is the way to go. No affecting the signal that way either as I have found out.

Looks like the only experimenting I will have to do is with the OPPO down mix settings. I had thought a down mix to stereo, but that MIGHT not on-pass the subwoofer channel even if it is connected from the OPPO out to SW in of the Denon. If it does not I would assume using the down mix to 5.1 and just not connect the other physical outputs from the OPPO to the Denon. Or do you think I should definitely select 5.1 and then follow gsr's recommendation of setting the speakers to small & setting subwoofer frequencies in the OPPO (yes- the Denon does not process anything at the EXT IN input).
THANK YOU!
-Doug
pcconsultant is offline  
Old 10-25-2015, 11:44 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
DSperber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Marina Del Rey, CA, USA
Posts: 5,587
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 171 Post(s)
Liked: 149
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajaxmike View Post
That's a cool setup. I would have thought that the manufacturer of the Realiser would have included several files of great sounding rooms.
Yes, and no.

The point about this piece of equipment and its design is that it is not a "one generic size fits all generic brains/ears" approach to "virtual surround through headphones" like Dolby Headphone. Instead, it is more like prescription eyeglasses, where you have your own unique auditory system same as you have your own unique eyes. Although you might kind of get by borrowing somebody else's eyeglasses in a pinch (hoping their prescription is similar to yours), we all know that really doesn't work optimally, if even at all. In order to truly get "best corrective optical results" for your own eyes really you must have your eyes measured for the anomalies in your own optical system, and then unique eyeglasses must be properly ground accordingly for you, to compensate for your own particular optical defect situation and prescription.

Well, the Realiser is built around a very similar notion, but in the audio realm.

A properly created PRIR file is specific to you, and your ears, and your auditory canal, and how your brain actually hears sound, and more specifically how your brain hears sound in a given specific single listening environment. During the measurement/creation of the PRIR itself (to capture the auditory characteristics of the specific listening environment as actually heard by your own ears and your own auditory system through the calibration microphones inserted into each of your ears), the "sonic photograph" of the room is digitally captured. This PRIR reflects everything about that particular environment, including carpeting, wall and ceiling treatments, sound baffles, electronic equipment used, the specific speakers present and their angular and linear placement around you relative to where you are sitting during the process, etc. The PRIR is intended to allow the Realiser to then sonically duplicate that one particular listening environment for you and your own ears specifically exactly as sound appears to you and your brain while in that listening position chair in that specific listening environment, when any future general multi-channel audio source is then later played back through that PRIR via the Realiser.

And then there is the separate HPEQ file which corresponds to a measurement of the auditory and frequency response characteristics of your headphones and amp, again as heard by your own ears. Obviously this can again only be properly created for you specifically, using whatever headphones and amp you own. The retail Realiser equipment package also includes an entry-level Stax SRS-2170 headphone/amp system, as Smyth has determined that the response characteristics of good electrostatic headphones provide the best possible results for their design. But no matter what headphone/amp you use you still must produce your own user-specific unique HPEQ file for that equipment to go along with any user-specific and listening-environment-specific PRIR.

So yes, while a single generic (or "borrowed from someone else's ears", from their measurement) PRIR is, in fact, provided in the Realiser to get you started, it's again like borrowing somebody else's prescription eyeglasses... but for the world of your ears. It's just really not going to work right. You need to produce your own PRIR, even if only for your own existing home audio system (if you have one), in order to really be able to demonstrate just how remarkably well this system "duplicates the sound through stereo headphones, of any multi-speaker audio system as you and your own ears/brain hear it".

In fact, at the end of the PRIR measurement process in a given listening environment there is an A/B comparison process, with you alternating between listening through your actual ears (i.e. headphones off) to sound coming from the speakers, vs. how the same sound appears when you have the headphones on and the Realiser is producing the "virtual surround". You can't stop smiling, because you can't tell the difference. It's quite remarkable. The spatial cues (angle, distance, and elevation of the virtual speakers relative to you in your fixed listening position in the environment, as heard by your ears/brain) of the multi-speaker multi-channel sound source as generated by the Realiser (and its "SVS technology") through stereo headphones under the control of a PRIR/HPEQ, well it's simply got to be experienced to be believed.

This IS NOT DOLBY HEADPHONE.

Last edited by DSperber; 10-25-2015 at 11:55 AM.
DSperber is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
 

Tags
Oppo Bdp 103 3d Blu Ray Player , Oppo Bdp 105 Blu Ray Player , Oppo Bdp 93 Blu Ray Player , Oppo Digital Inc
Thread Tools


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off