Official OPPO BDP-105 Owner's Thread - Page 109 - AVS Forum
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post #3241 of 11344 Old 01-26-2013, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Baker View Post

Hard to imagine how they are going to fix the HDCP handshake problems with a firmware update, since that stuff is normally implemented in ASICs.

I had this hdcp issue on bdp-103 may be 5 times total first and the second day then it went away. On bdp-105 i havnt had any hdcp issues. Different firmware since. Same cable box. Same hookup sequences. Oh yes the inbetween receiver has changed. It happened with onkyo in between. I dont wanna blame oppo unfairly. I do know that if oppo player is too close to the other av devices or sitting on top of a reciever, it may be heating up and creating that slowdown and unresponsiveness. And that is not oppo's fault in my eyes. These equipments need ventilations.
By the way, this hdcp issue did come up twice with sc-68 pioneer twice with in the first half an hour of the operation. With no oppo running inbetween. I had sent the bdp-103 back and was waiting for bdp-105 to arrive. Funny that how much we missed oppo's picture quality in those 5 days. I could be that dcx3510m motorola box it self too.

Most of the reviews online talking about the picture quality performance based on a TV or a good quality projector which is around 100" screen and thats fine but, when an image gets projected on 150" or larger projector screen i started to see the briliant performance of the oppo's. they outshine everything i have seen so for. Specially for the cable signal.

At the same times, bdp-103 was sitting on the onkyo tx-nr818 and had no issues what so ever. Now people complaining about onkyo being too hot from their past experience with other onkyo models and creating a false impression on the web by speculating that tx-nr818 might run hot, but i can tell you that onkyo ran much colder than pioneer sc-68 and 4520ci denon. They were all good products but i only kept denon because it worked for my needs and it apealed to me. And i do realize that 103 and 105 are different products and have different workloads. Plus i dont remeber many fanless av prducts with a robust power supply like oppo bdp-105 has. To me both of the oppo players are race horses and i dont wanna treat em like a donky.
Reading the information on the internet is a double edge sword. Better to get the equipment your self and test it and see if it work for your self.
Plus oppo has best 30 days return policy. Dont like then it can be returned.
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post #3242 of 11344 Old 01-26-2013, 12:20 PM
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One more quick question, in the recent EAN audiophile review of the OPPO bdp-105 it said this:

"If you want to use a separate DAC, receiver, preamp, etc., this player can deliver the full-res goodies. Other than the SPDIF limiting of DVD-A to 16/48 (and it does not sound good compared to full res), you don’t have to worry about this machine clamping down on 24-bit output."

"Oppo said that the firmware is integrated into the DSP, and cannot be changed, so those who have a collection of DVD-Audios and want to use an external DAC, you will have to buy an HDMI de-embedder to get the DVD-A full-res to your DAC."


I have a great deal of DVD-Audio discs to use for playback, as long as I use the multichannel analog outs on the OPPO and the either the multichannel analog inputs on my Onkyo TXNR -809 receiver or go straight to an Amp, will I maintain full resolution audio?, Is this referring to only the use of the Digital Coaxial cable? I am assuming that is what they mean by the SPDIF, Digital Audio using a coaxial cable?

Without the use of HDMI or a Digital coaxial cable for my audio, I will not need a HDMI embedder to play back my DVD-Audio discs in full resolution, correct? Thanks ......Mark
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post #3243 of 11344 Old 01-26-2013, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Are you using the latest firmware? Check Setup > Device Setup > Firmware Information. The "Main" firmware version number should end 1220.

While playing that Spotify input stream from your PC using the Asynchronous USB DAC, press the Info button on the OPPO remote and report what the on-screen display says is coming in as the input data format. It will be 2.0 LPCM, but the question is at what rate? If greater than 48KHz, is the thing you have connected at the other end of the Optical/Coax OUTPUT cable able to handle that higher rate of input from the OPPO?

What do you have the Optical/Coax Output of the OPPO set to? If LPCM, is it set to a high enough rate to handle the input rate coming in?

Check to confirm you have DTS Neo:6 processing OFF, as the Neo:6 processing limits the rate of digital audio.
--Bob

Thanks Bob

That did indeed help to identify the problem. My MacPro was set at 192khz, dropped it down to 96khz now the Onkyo 809 seems happy now.
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post #3244 of 11344 Old 01-26-2013, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevepow View Post

There are no SPDIF, Optical or Coax, outputs on the BDP-105 - only Optical and Coax inputs. You can use those inputs, for example, to run a Sonos player into the Oppo to utilize the Oppo DACs rather than the Sonos DACs.

When you use the USB DAC, output is only from the Stereo RCA or XLR outputs as far as I know - I didn't think the USB DAC would also output over HDMI, but maybe it does?

Was that the question - I must have missed something?

----

ehh - ignore all of this - too many drugs... frown.gif

Like the 93 and 103 the 105 does have optical and coax outputs and you can use USB inputs and use optical or coax outputs. I was even using my 93 as a transport to my external DACs which I've sold since I got the 105. The 105 has optical/coax inputs and outptus though so you have to make sure you're using the correct ones.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wmcclain View Post

I don't think any of that is correct.

-Bill

none of it is
Quote:
Originally Posted by darkphader View Post

  • Audio from outside sources (ARC, SPDIF) is delayed (sometimes severely) causing lip sync issues.
  • Direct in via HDMI audio/video sync issues - for me this applies to the Roku stick in which viewing one item the a/v sync might be close and the next so out of sync (delayed audio again) that it's almost impossible to believe. Can't watch two Vevo videos in a row without the sync issue destroying the experience.
  • Many times once the audio becomes horribly delayed it requires a cold boot of the system (removal of power cord after shutdown) to get reasonably close again.
  • The audio delay is quite variable and little things, like changing from speakers to headphones, can cause a tolerable delay to become intolerable.
  • Freezes under various conditions requiring a reboot. I really don't think such an "appliance" should ever lock-up in this manner (even Microsoft has almost eradicated the BSOD).
  • SMB has minor but workable issues.
  • Sometimes on a power-up no video is displayed and it needs a reboot.
  • Connecting both HDMI outs to my TV (in case I want some sources to be QDEO processed and others not) breaks ARC, so this can't be done since I lose audio when the player is not the source.

The audio delays, and a/v sync issues are the most damning. I find myself virtually holding my breath when I select ARC as the source, hoping that the audio delay is minor and that I wont need some magic and a special dance or two before starting over.
And I don't bother to plug the Roku stick in anymore, it's virtually useless.

That said, playing discs and network streaming do work quite well for me.


I haven't seen a single one of those issues. I don't use the roku thought. Actually, I have had it freeze but it seems be be associated with specific hi-res files played off a hard drive. Very rare though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wse View Post

Thank you, it seems the big advantage of the 105 is new features, being able to be used as a DAC but sound wise not worth the upgrade!

Plus with all these issues not worth it for me, I am waiting for the next generation
Oppo BDP-115 smile.gif

That's not what I got out of that quote at all. It's still a good DAC and a better USB DAC than the previous version (since it didn't even have one - so clearly worth the upgrade)
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post #3245 of 11344 Old 01-26-2013, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tme110 View Post


Like the 93 and 103 the 105 does have optical and coax outputs and you can use USB inputs and use optical or coax outputs. I was even using my 93 as a transport to my external DACs which I've sold since I got the 105. The 105 has optical/coax inputs and outptus though so you have to make sure you're using the correct ones.
none of it is
I haven't seen a single one of those issues. I don't use the roku thought. Actually, I have had it freeze but it seems be be associated with specific hi-res files played off a hard drive. Very rare though.
That's not what I got out of that quote at all. It's still a good DAC and a better USB DAC than the previous version (since it didn't even have one - so clearly worth the upgrade)

 

If you don't use the USB DAC the BDP-95 sound as good as the BDP-105, I will wait for the 115 unless the 95 goes bust!

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post #3246 of 11344 Old 01-26-2013, 04:40 PM
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yea, it seems they should but so far there's only a power toggle available.

Loading the oppo 83 command set is a great idea though, I will be trying that.

So now once harmony can recognize the oppo as a processor we'll be all set.

Though logitech is selling off the harmony line so it'll probably be a long time for any more improvements.
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post #3247 of 11344 Old 01-26-2013, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkphader View Post

Of course I've been in contact with Oppo since virtually day one. Both via phone and email. It would be foolish to think otherwise.
No resolution yet.

Does anyone have a Roku stick in a 105 where the A/V stays perfectly in sync? - don't use it. But a Roku2 XD via HDMI in and analog works fine. I know, not a SPDIF input. Just my observation.
Does anyone have a 105 that doesn't delay the audio (via ARC or SPDIF) from external sources? - When I originally hooked up my TV tuner via SPDIF, it was fine. Then, the next day it would sometimes present lyp synch issues. Luckily haven't noticed anything for maybe a week now.
Does anyone have a 105 that doesn't freeze up? - I don't ever remember mine locking up. But I'm not using the USB DAC (yet) and am mostly just doing analog to my integrated with video straigth to my monitor. And it is great. Also, not doing any SACDs.

My use is mostly simple to your more complicated or complex use. Just thought I'd report my observations.
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post #3248 of 11344 Old 01-26-2013, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Yes, and again, you can still WIRE the Dedicated L/R outputs in lieu of the normal LF/RF outputs of the multi-channel set by setting Stereo Signal = FRONT LEFT/RIGHT.

By the way, if you play the stereo layer from an SACD, using the multi-channel configuration as described, the audio will ALSO be 2.1

IMPORTANT NOTE: To get bass steering -- i.e., to get speakers handled as "Small" with bass from them going to the Subwoofer -- you must use SACD Output PCM. No audio processing (such as this) is possible when using SACD Output DSD. (There's no equivalent thing to watch out for when playing your CDs.)
--Bob

I think this answers my questions [In my head I haven't posted previously]. But, since it doesn't read the way I'm thinking lets try a scenario.

Oppo 105 XLR to Bryston 4bsst2....Oppo 5 RCA to Bryston 9bsst2... RCA to DD-15 Velodyne sub... Oppo HDMI sent to Runco LS-5.

Will this play all 7.1 channels as of Master Audio from a Blu-ray and send picture to Runco with out issues.... and also play redbook CDs in just 2 channel, with no sub when asked to do so?

Save the issue of not having 12 volt trigger to the Runco this would be the most direct set-up I could ever think of doing.

Will it do this?
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post #3249 of 11344 Old 01-26-2013, 08:04 PM
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^

It should.
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post #3250 of 11344 Old 01-26-2013, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dturco View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Yes, and again, you can still WIRE the Dedicated L/R outputs in lieu of the normal LF/RF outputs of the multi-channel set by setting Stereo Signal = FRONT LEFT/RIGHT.

By the way, if you play the stereo layer from an SACD, using the multi-channel configuration as described, the audio will ALSO be 2.1

IMPORTANT NOTE: To get bass steering -- i.e., to get speakers handled as "Small" with bass from them going to the Subwoofer -- you must use SACD Output PCM. No audio processing (such as this) is possible when using SACD Output DSD. (There's no equivalent thing to watch out for when playing your CDs.)
--Bob

I think this answers my questions [In my head I haven't posted previously]. But, since it doesn't read the way I'm thinking lets try a scenario.

Oppo 105 XLR to Bryston 4bsst2....Oppo 5 RCA to Bryston 9bsst2... RCA to DD-15 Velodyne sub... Oppo HDMI sent to Runco LS-5.

Will this play all 7.1 channels as of Master Audio from a Blu-ray and send picture to Runco with out issues.... and also play redbook CDs in just 2 channel, with no sub when asked to do so?

Save the issue of not having 12 volt trigger to the Runco this would be the most direct set-up I could ever think of doing.

Will it do this?

Simplify this in your head: Consider what cables are carrying the audio for Front Left and Front Right when playing movies.

If those are EITHER the normal LF/RF outputs of the multi-channel Analog set OR the Dedicated Stereo Analog L/R outputs (either RCA or XLR) with Stereo Signal = FRONT LEFT/RIGHT selected, then those cables will respond to the Speaker Configuration settings that apply to the LF/RF outputs of the multi-channel set.

If you've set LF/RF to Small (and Sub to ON) then bass will be steered to the Subwoofer output (mixed with any LFE channel content). If you have LF/RF set to LARGE then there is no Crossover processing for them -- the Subwoofer will only get LFE channel content (plus bass steered into it from any OTHER output channels you have set to Small).

So if you *WANT* Crossover processing while playing movies -- or multi-channel music content -- then that will *ALSO* be happening when you play your redbook CDs. Bass will be steered from the 2 front channels to the Sub output.

So what to do?

Well the usual recommendation would be to wire the Dedicated Stereo Analog outputs SEPARATELY from the multi-channel Analog outputs -- and set Stereo Signal = DOWN MIX STEREO. Set that way the Dedicated L/R do not have any crossover processing -- all the bass in the content goes out those L/R outputs. Meanwhile the 7.1 jacks from the multi-channel Analog set would still be responding to the Speaker Configuration settings you have selected -- including Crossover processing if that's the way you have it set.

But if you don't wan't to wire a separate amp path for 2-channel music, then the ALTERNATE solution is to wire just as you have suggested except switch to Stereo Signal = DOWN MIX STEREO before playing your 2-channel music content. All the stereo content will then go out the Dedicated L/R jacks (no Crossover processing) and the Sub jack, and the remaining jacks of the multi-channel Analog set, will remain silent.

Just remember to switch BACK to Stereo Signal = FRONT LEFT/RIGHT before playing any multi-channel content -- either movies or music.

Wired this way you can play your 2-channel music content (e.g., CDs) and flip back and forth between Stereo Signal DOWN MIX STEREO and Stereo Signal FRONT LEFT/RIGHT and compare for yourself whether including the Subwoofer in your stereo music playback (i.e., a 2.1 speaker output configuration) sounds better or worse to your ears.

NOTE: The Speaker Configuration > Down Mix setting is a different thing. You can leave it at 7.1 even while playing your stere content and flipping the Stereo Signal setting back and forth as just described.
--Bob

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post #3251 of 11344 Old 01-26-2013, 10:42 PM
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Region Free

This will be a long post.

Someone might want to copy it to another location.

Let me start by saying that I have never ripped, copied, or otherwise stolen so much as a single track, and that whenever someone brags about acquiring audio/video without paying for it, I challenge them to explain why that's any different from shoplifting. And if you google for "Martin Logan System 420" you can see our equipment closet and some of our shiny disks. I pay for media.

That being said, the pettiness of region locking infuriates me, and makes me want to drive to Hollywood and punch the first guy I see wearing a suit.

Even more infuriating, the biggest reason Hollywood wanted region locking was so they could reuse the film reels in Europe, and then Asia, after using them up in the US. It was just sheer moneygrubbing, plus it shows how much they care about their product--they were eager to dump aged tapes on the audience. Shame on them. And with digital distribution, this is now a non-issue.

Hollywood has perhaps realized the error of its ways. Try to buy a region-locked Blu-ray. The only one I ever found is the Region B Apocalypto. But that doesn't help those of us with hundreds of region-locked DVDs.

So. If you have region-locked DVDs and/or Blu-rays, or if you just object to region-locking on principle, here is a decision procedure:

- Do you only have region-locked DVDs?
-- If so, try the super.iso.
-- If it worked, you're done.
-- If it didn't work (it didn't work for me, but I might have burned it incorrectly, although the disk verified and looked correct [EDIT: I needed to use a CD-R. A DVD-R/W won't work.]), try the $89 bluraychip kit. It should work for DVDs. It worked for me, but...
- If you have region-locked Blu-rays...
-- The $89 bluraychip kit doesn't fix that (they say it does, but it doesn't, or at least didn't for me, and didn't for several others who have contacted me--if the vendor monitors this thread, please pay attention!),
-- So you need the PRO kit. Which is lamentable, because the $89 kit is fairly easy to install, but the PRO is invasive and kind of scary.

If you need either of the kits, installation in the 105 is a pain. Hollywood can't claim Oppo made this easy.

1) You'll need a medium screwdriver, a muffin pan, a work area, small/strong fingers, good up-close eyesight, bright lighting, steady nerves, and, ideally, a grounding strap for your wrist. Oh, and the patience of a saint.
2) Remove the cover, putting the four screws with big washers from the sides in one muffin cup and the other screws in another muffin cup.
3) With the front of the unit towards your belly, you'll see two boards on the top. The one at the back that runs from left to about 2/3rds of the way to the right is the multichannel board. I'll call that the MCB from now on. The board on the right that runs from back to about 6/7ths of the way to the front is the stereo board. I'll call that the SB from now on.
4) Put on the grounding strap and connect it to the chassis.
5) Remove the screws inside the unit from the MCB. Do not drop them into the unit. Keep track of which ones have the black cylindrical standoffs. Put all of them in a third muffin cup. [EDIT: To install the $89 kit, a person on this forum says you can just loosen the SB, gently lift it up, and install the kit.]
6) Remove the screws outside the unit from the MCB. Do not drop them on the floor. Put all of them in a fourth muffin cup.
7) Carefully pull the small flat blue-and-white ribbon cable that connects the MCB to the SB out of its connector. Tug only on the blue flap. Do not screw this up.
8) Carefully pull the black plug with red wires that connects the MCB to the SB off the SB. There is a little clip that you need to depress in order to do this. Do not screw this up.
9) Remove the MCB from the unit and set it on a non-static-y surface.
10) Carefully pull the small flat blue-and-white ribbon cable that connects the SB to the board below it out of its connector. Tug only on the blue flap. Do not screw this up.
11) Carefully pull the remaining three plugs off the SB board.
12) Remove the screws inside the unit from the SB. Do not drop them into the unit. Keep track of which ones have the black cylindrical standoffs. Put all of them in a fifth muffin cup.
13) Remove the screws outside the unit from the SB. Do not drop them on the floor. Put all of them in a sixth muffin cup.
14) Remove the SB from the unit and set it on a non-static-y surface.

If you are just installing the $89 kit, follow the simple instructions for the 103 from their site, with these tips/warnings:

1) Gently plug the kit's cable into the bottom board.
2) When you tape the kit's board to the inside side wall of the chassis, make sure to locate the cable and board out of the way of the SB, headphone card (little square in low front right), and other cables.
3) Before putting the unit back together, plug in just the HDMI cable and power cord, start the unit, make sure you get video, and try a region-locked DVD from not your region.
4) If the unit passes the tests, power it down and jump to the section below on reassembly.
5) If the unit does not pass the tests, power it down, remove the kit, send an angry email to the vendor, and jump to the section below on reassembly.

If you are installing the PRO kit:

If you bought the kit before 12/20/2012, sucks to be you. I did that. So:

1) Remove the USB drive from the kit.
2) Follow the instructions for downloading the rar, extracting the files, and copying them to the USB drive.
3) Keep the USB drive out of the kit for now.

To install the PRO kit, follow the instructions for the 103 from their site, with these tips/warnings:

1) The long cables are pretty easy to install, but try to keep them away from the big heatsink.
2) Before connecting the ribbbon cables, disconnect the black plug from the bottom board and connect it to the kit board, and then connect the kit to the bottom board.
3) Be very careful with the ribbon cables, and make sure you have them lined up straight before flipping the clips back down.
4) The right front corner gets really crowded and organic--you are trying to line up everything and lock it into place without knocking anything else out of whack, and without rubbing/touching/shorting anything. Breathe deeply and work slowly.
5) In particular, avoid the thin black strap at the bottom of the pile, and note how inconveniently it needs to clear the stud for (I think) the right front foot.
6) In order to avoid impinging the thin black strap at the bottom of the pile, I only taped down the end of the kit's board away from that strap.

If you bought the kit before 12/20/2012:

1) Plug in just the HDMI cable and power cord, start the unit, plug the USB drive into only the front USB socket, wait a bit, and, if all goes well the unit will shut down after 10-15 seconds after sync'ing to the kit.
2) Power down the unit.
3) Plug the USB drive back into the kit.

To test the PRO kit:

1) Plug in the HDMI cable and power cord.
2) Press whichever button corresponds to your Blu-ray region (1=A, 2=B, 3=C), and verify that the unit starts.
3) Put in a region-locked DVD for not your region.
4) Verify that the DVD plays fine.
5) Put in a region-locked Blu-ray from not your region and try to play it.
6) Verify that the Blu-ray does not play and you instead get a region error message.
7) Power down the unit.
8) Unplug the unit (or if you have a power control, for example a power strip, turn it off). The instructions say you don't have to do this, but in my experience it is necessary.
9) Wait 10 seconds.
10) Restore power to the unit.
11) Press whichever button corresponds to the Blu-ray region for the disk (1=A, 2=B, 3=C), and verify that the unit starts and plays the disk.
12) Jump to the section below on reassembly.

To reassemble:

1) Reverse the disassembly process order. In particular, finish the SB before seating the MCB.
2) When seating the SB, be sure to pull the three plugs out from underneath because you can't do that at all with the two on the left if you forget, and it's difficult with the one in the front right.
3) To reseat the ribbon cable on the SB, push only on the blue flap. Don't screw this up. In particular, don't crimp the cable. A very very very gentle side-to-side motion can help.
4) Be very careful not to drop any screws inside the unit, lest you have to tear it back down and hope you can shake out the lost part before you lose your mind and then start over.
5) Just finger-tighten the screws on each board, both inside and outside the unit, until you are sure you have all the connections in place.
6) Don't strip the tiny delicate threads in the rear connectors when final tightening them.
7) Be sure you put the black cylindrical standoffs in the correct locations.
8) Hook up all cables and verify that video and audio work correctly.

I noticed that, at least with the PRO kit, startup is slower, there seem to be three handshakes (with itself apparently), each separated by a few seconds, and the Oppo startup logo is a washed-out mostly uniform blue (it's probably a canned image).

Finally:

1) Join the EFF.
2) Vote for candidates who aren't shilling for large corporate interests, if any still exist.

My system? Google for: Martin Logan 420 CLX Descent Stage Summit
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post #3252 of 11344 Old 01-26-2013, 10:45 PM
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Do you think there would be a significant sound improvement between the 83SE and the 105 for 2 channel audio analog playback?

Also is it possible to connect the 105 - 2 ways to 1 amp.
Could I use the XLR's to my amp and watch/listen to my 105 as a preamp and do all analog with just the adjustments for speaker distance,etc with the OPPO?
Then, could I hook up the 105 to my current set up - a Dennon receiver via RCA's to the amp and go through that system and use the room correction and such?
Is this doable since the 105 has 2 HDMI outs?
Does any of this make sense.......lol

Thanks for any help!!!
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post #3253 of 11344 Old 01-26-2013, 10:51 PM
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JIMSHOWALTER,
The SuperDisc -- no-hardware-needed -- solution for enabling Region-Free SD-DVD playback has been essentially bullet-proof across all the OPPO players. It's what is used in jurisdictions like Australia which require DVD Region-free in players by law.

Yours is, I think, the first post I've read of someone who couldn't get it to work (among people who are reasonably savvy about doing stuff like burning discs).

I suspect you used the wrong type of writeable disc media, but perhaps there is something else going on.
--Bob

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post #3254 of 11344 Old 01-26-2013, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by jimshowalter View Post

Region Free

This will be a long post.

Someone might want to copy it to another location.

Let me start by saying that I have never ripped, copied, or otherwise stolen so much as a single track, and that whenever someone brags about acquiring audio/video without paying for it, I challenge them to explain why that's any different from shoplifting. And if you google for "Martin Logan System 420" you can see our equipment closet and some of our shiny disks. I pay for media.

That being said, the pettiness of region locking infuriates me, and makes me want to drive to Hollywood and punch the first guy I see wearing a suit.

Even more infuriating, the biggest reason Hollywood wanted region locking was so they could reuse the film reels in Europe, and then Asia, after using them up in the US. It was just sheer moneygrubbing, plus it shows how much they care about their product--they were eager to dump aged tapes on the audience. Shame on them. And with digital distribution, this is now a non-issue.

Hollywood has perhaps realized the error of its ways. Try to buy a region-locked Blu-ray. The only one I ever found is the Region B Apocalypto. But that doesn't help those of us with hundreds of region-locked DVDs.

So. If you have region-locked DVDs and/or Blu-rays, or if you just object to region-locking on principle, here is a decision procedure:

- Do you only have region-locked DVDs?
-- If so, try the super.iso.
-- If it worked, you're done.
-- If it didn't work (it didn't work for me, but I might have burned it incorrectly, although the disk verified and looked correct), try the $89 bluraychip kit. It should work for DVDs. It worked for me, but...
- If you have region-locked Blu-rays...
-- The $89 bluraychip kit doesn't fix that (they say it does, but it doesn't, or at least didn't for me, and didn't for several others who have contacted me--if the vendor monitors this thread, please pay attention!),
-- So you need the PRO kit. Which is lamentable, because the $89 kit is fairly easy to install, but the PRO is invasive and kind of scary.

If you need either of the kits, installation in the 105 is a pain. Hollywood can't claim Oppo made this easy.

1) You'll need a medium screwdriver, a muffin pan, a work area, small/strong fingers, good up-close eyesight, bright lighting, steady nerves, and, ideally, a grounding strap for your wrist. Oh, and the patience of a saint.
2) Remove the cover, putting the four screws with big washers from the sides in one muffin cup and the other screws in another muffin cup.
3) With the front of the unit towards your belly, you'll see two boards on the top. The one at the back that runs from left to about 2/3rds of the way to the right is the multichannel board. I'll call that the MCB from now on. The board on the right that runs from back to about 6/7ths of the way to the front is the stereo board. I'll call that the SB from now on.
4) Put on the grounding strap and connect it to the chassis.
5) Remove the screws inside the unit from the MCB. Do not drop them into the unit. Keep track of which ones have the black cylindrical standoffs. Put all of them in a third muffin cup.
6) Remove the screws outside the unit from the MCB. Do not drop them on the floor. Put all of them in a fourth muffin cup.
7) Carefully pull the small flat blue-and-white ribbon cable that connects the MCB to the SB out of its connector. Tug only on the blue flap. Do not screw this up.
8) Carefully pull the black plug with red wires that connects the MCB to the SB off the SB. There is a little clip that you need to depress in order to do this. Do not screw this up.
9) Remove the MCB from the unit and set it on a non-static-y surface.
10) Carefully pull the small flat blue-and-white ribbon cable that connects the SB to the board below it out of its connector. Tug only on the blue flap. Do not screw this up.
11) Carefully pull the remaining three plugs off the SB board.
12) Remove the screws inside the unit from the SB. Do not drop them into the unit. Keep track of which ones have the black cylindrical standoffs. Put all of them in a fifth muffin cup.
13) Remove the screws outside the unit from the SB. Do not drop them on the floor. Put all of them in a sixth muffin cup.
14) Remove the SB from the unit and set it on a non-static-y surface.

If you are just installing the $89 kit, follow the simple instructions for the 103 from their site, with these tips/warnings:

1) Gently plug the kit's cable into the bottom board.
2) When you tape the kit's board to the inside side wall of the chassis, make sure to locate the cable and board out of the way of the SB, headphone card (little square in low front right), and other cables.
3) Before putting the unit back together, plug in just the HDMI cable and power cord, start the unit, make sure you get video, and try a region-locked DVD from not your region.
4) If the unit passes the tests, power it down and jump to the section below on reassembly.
5) If the unit does not pass the tests, power it down, remove the kit, send an angry email to the vendor, and jump to the section below on reassembly.

If you are installing the PRO kit:

If you bought the kit before 12/20/2012, sucks to be you. I did that. So:

1) Remove the USB drive from the kit.
2) Follow the instructions for downloading the rar, extracting the files, and copying them to the USB drive.
3) Keep the USB drive out of the kit for now.

To install the PRO kit, follow the instructions for the 103 from their site, with these tips/warnings:

1) The long cables are pretty easy to install, but try to keep them away from the big heatsink.
2) Before connecting the ribbbon cables, disconnect the black plug from the bottom board and connect it to the kit board, and then connect the kit to the bottom board.
3) Be very careful with the ribbon cables, and make sure you have them lined up straight before flipping the clips back down.
4) The right front corner gets really crowded and organic--you are trying to line up everything and lock it into place without knocking anything else out of whack, and without rubbing/touching/shorting anything. Breathe deeply and work slowly.
5) In particular, avoid the thin black strap at the bottom of the pile, and note how inconveniently it needs to clear the stud for (I think) the right front foot.
6) In order to avoid impinging the thin black strap at the bottom of the pile, I only taped down the end of the kit's board away from that strap.

If you bought the kit before 12/20/2012:

1) Plug in just the HDMI cable and power cord, start the unit, plug the USB drive into only the front USB socket, wait a bit, and, if all goes well the unit will shut down after 10-15 seconds after sync'ing to the kit.
2) Power down the unit.
3) Plug the USB drive back into the kit.

To test the PRO kit:

1) Plug in the HDMI cable and power cord.
2) Press whichever button corresponds to your Blu-ray region (1=A, 2=B, 3=C), and verify that the unit starts.
3) Put in a region-locked DVD for not your region.
4) Verify that the DVD plays fine.
5) Put in a region-locked Blu-ray from not your region and try to play it.
6) Verify that the Blu-ray does not play and you instead get a region error message.
7) Power down the unit.
8) Unplug the unit (or if you have a power control, for example a power strip, turn it off). The instructions say you don't have to do this, but in my experience it is necessary.
9) Wait 10 seconds.
10) Restore power to the unit.
11) Press whichever button corresponds to the Blu-ray region for the disk (1=A, 2=B, 3=C), and verify that the unit starts and plays the disk.
12) Jump to the section below on reassembly.

To reassemble:

1) Reverse the disassembly process order. In particular, finish the SB before seating the MCB.
2) When seating the SB, be sure to pull the three plugs out from underneath because you can't do that at all with the two on the left if you forget, and it's difficult with the one in the front right.
3) To reseat the ribbon cable on the SB, push only on the blue flap. Don't screw this up. In particular, don't crimp the cable. A very very very gentle side-to-side motion can help.
4) Be very careful not to drop any screws inside the unit, lest you have to tear it back down and hope you can shake out the lost part before you lose your mind and then start over.
5) Just finger-tighten the screws on each board, both inside and outside the unit, until you are sure you have all the connections in place.
6) Don't strip the tiny delicate threads in the rear connectors when final tightening them.
7) Be sure you put the black cylindrical standoffs in the correct locations.
8) Hook up all cables and verify that video and audio work correctly.

I noticed that, at least with the PRO kit, startup is slower, there seem to be three handshakes (with itself apparently), each separated by a few seconds, and the Oppo startup logo is a washed-out mostly uniform blue (it's probably a canned image).

Finally:

1) Join the EFF.
2) Vote for candidates who aren't shilling for large corporate interests, if any still exist.




There is a reputable dealer in NY that sells the new and old OPPO"s all ready to go region free, he sells them for $1500(BDP-105). I "know" someone who got an older one from him set to region free and had no problems at all. Can easily be found with Google.
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post #3255 of 11344 Old 01-26-2013, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

JIMSHOWALTER,
The SuperDisc -- no-hardware-needed -- solution for enabling Region-Free SD-DVD playback has been essentially bullet-proof across all the OPPO players. It's what is used in jurisdictions like Australia which require DVD Region-free in players by law.

Yours is, I think, the first post I've read of someone who couldn't get it to work (among people who are reasonably savvy about doing stuff like burning discs).

I suspect you used the wrong type of writeable disc media, but perhaps there is something else going on.
--Bob

This is good to read, I was hoping to use this with my new 105.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

JIMSHOWALTER,
The SuperDisc -- no-hardware-needed -- solution for enabling Region-Free SD-DVD playback has been essentially bullet-proof across all the OPPO players. It's what is used in jurisdictions like Australia which require DVD Region-free in players by law.

Yours is, I think, the first post I've read of someone who couldn't get it to work (among people who are reasonably savvy about doing stuff like burning discs).

I suspect you used the wrong type of writeable disc media, but perhaps there is something else going on.
--Bob

Yeah, imagine my disappointment! But it wouldn't solve the Blu-ray piece anyway.

It said unrecognized disk.

My system? Google for: Martin Logan 420 CLX Descent Stage Summit
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Originally Posted by alabamawoody View Post

Do you think there would be a significant sound improvement between the 83SE and the 105 for 2 channel audio analog playback?

Also is it possible to connect the 105 - 2 ways to 1 amp.
Could I use the XLR's to my amp and watch/listen to my 105 as a preamp and do all analog with just the adjustments for speaker distance,etc with the OPPO?
Then, could I hook up the 105 to my current set up - a Dennon receiver via RCA's to the amp and go through that system and use the room correction and such?
Is this doable since the 105 has 2 HDMI outs?
Does any of this make sense.......lol

Thanks for any help!!!

Your problem will likely be at the amp. Some amps are known to have fits if both their XLR and RCA inputs are cabled at the same time.

Keep in mind that the Analog and HDMI outputs of the OPPO are live simultaneously, so while you are using HDMI to your Denon, and then from then Denon to the RCA inputs of the AMP, the XLR outputs of the OPPO are ALSO live and thus will be sending signals to the amp AS WELL. Thus even if the amp ALLOWS both types of inputs to be connected, you'd need to make some sort of switch selection on the amp for which input it should USE at the moment.

In addition, you may not have twigged off on the fact that the 105 only has stereo XLR outputs. The normal multi-channel Analog outputs are RCA.
--Bob

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post #3258 of 11344 Old 01-26-2013, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by jimshowalter View Post

Yeah, imagine my disappointment! But it wouldn't solve the Blu-ray piece anyway.

It said unrecognized disk.

Well as you said, the Blu-ray situation is far less of a problem these days.

As for the SuperDisc, just to check the obvious, did you note it must be burned to a CD-R (not a writeable DVD)?
--Bob

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Originally Posted by drumgail View Post

I have a great deal of DVD-Audio discs to use for playback, as long as I use the multichannel analog outs on the OPPO and the either the multichannel analog inputs on my Onkyo TXNR -809 receiver or go straight to an Amp, will I maintain full resolution audio?, Is this referring to only the use of the Digital Coaxial cable? I am assuming that is what they mean by the SPDIF, Digital Audio using a coaxial cable?

Without the use of HDMI or a Digital coaxial cable for my audio, I will not need a HDMI embedder to play back my DVD-Audio discs in full resolution, correct? Thanks ......Mark

Correct on all counts.

For DVD-A playback, the Analog audio outputs from the 105 will be full quality.

NOTE: Leave DTS Neo:6 Mode OFF unless you actually WANT to use it as it limits the rate of the digital audio path (including what gets sent to the DACs for Analog output).
--Bob

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Your problem will likely be at the amp. Some amps are known to have fits if both their XLR and RCA inputs are cabled at the same time.

Keep in mind that the Analog and HDMI outputs of the OPPO are live simultaneously, so while you are using HDMI to your Denon, and then from then Denon to the RCA inputs of the AMP, the XLR outputs of the OPPO are ALSO live and thus will be sending signals to the amp AS WELL. Thus even if the amp ALLOWS both types of inputs to be connected, you'd need to make some sort of switch selection on the amp for which input it should USE at the moment.

In addition, you may not have twigged off on the fact that the 105 only has stereo XLR outputs. The normal multi-channel Analog outputs are RCA.
--Bob

Oh sheyat, your saying that there are not XLR's for the multichannel, just 2 channel, kind of missed that, Anyway doesn't sound like it was going to work anyway. I had a dream, I had a vision, sounded pretty good! You can't fail unless you try!

How about the question concerning the 2 channel audio quality between the 83SE and 105?

Thanks a lot
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Originally Posted by Jeff Baker View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by darkphader View Post

I expect some bugs and know that most will get fixed in a reasonable amount of time via firmware updates.

Hard to imagine how they are going to fix the HDCP handshake problems with a firmware update, since that stuff is normally implemented in ASICs.

The timing parameters are firmware adjustable.

The PROBLEM is that there are a ton of devices out there with crufty HDMI implementations -- cable and satellite set top boxes are notoriously bad for example. Coming up with parameters that work across a suitably wide range of devices is the trick.

(Come the revolution, HDMI will be first up against the wall.... )
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

As for the SuperDisc, just to check the obvious, did you note it must be burned to a CD-R (not a writeable DVD)?

Um, no. I only have DVD-R. How embarrassing.

My system? Google for: Martin Logan 420 CLX Descent Stage Summit
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^ Well if you don't tell anyone, I won't either....

biggrin.gif
--Bob

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post #3264 of 11344 Old 01-27-2013, 02:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Well as you said, the Blu-ray situation is far less of a problem these days.

As for the SuperDisc, just to check the obvious, did you note it must be burned to a CD-R (not a writeable DVD)?
--Bob

Also, after you download super_disc.iso you need to extract the ISO file and that's what you copy to the CD-R. I used WinRAR to do the extraction and I think I just copied the folder created by the extraction (and the files contained in it) to the CD-R. (Originally I had tried copying the downloaded super_disc.iso file to a CD-R and when that didn't work I reread the directions at http://www.multi-region.net/oppo_bdp-83 .)
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post #3266 of 11344 Old 01-27-2013, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimshowalter View Post

Region Free

Hollywood has perhaps realized the error of its ways. Try to buy a region-locked Blu-ray. The only one I ever found is the Region B Apocalypto. But that doesn't help those of us with hundreds of region-locked DVDs.

2) Remove the cover, putting the four screws with big washers from the sides in one muffin cup and the other screws in another muffin cup.
3) With the front of the unit towards your belly, you'll see two boards on the top. The one at the back that runs from left to about 2/3rds of the way to the right is the multichannel board. I'll call that the MCB from now on. The board on the right that runs from back to about 6/7ths of the way to the front is the stereo board. I'll call that the SB from now on.
4) Put on the grounding strap and connect it to the chassis.
5) Remove the screws inside the unit from the MCB. Do not drop them into the unit. Keep track of which ones have the black cylindrical standoffs. Put all of them in a third muffin cup.
6) Remove the screws outside the unit from the MCB. Do not drop them on the floor. Put all of them in a fourth muffin cup.
7) Carefully pull the small flat blue-and-white ribbon cable that connects the MCB to the SB out of its connector. Tug only on the blue flap. Do not screw this up.
8) Carefully pull the black plug with red wires that connects the MCB to the SB off the SB. There is a little clip that you need to depress in order to do this. Do not screw this up.
9) Remove the MCB from the unit and set it on a non-static-y surface.
10) Carefully pull the small flat blue-and-white ribbon cable that connects the SB to the board below it out of its connector. Tug only on the blue flap. Do not screw this up.
11) Carefully pull the remaining three plugs off the SB board.
12) Remove the screws inside the unit from the SB. Do not drop them into the unit. Keep track of which ones have the black cylindrical standoffs. Put all of them in a fifth muffin cup.
13) Remove the screws outside the unit from the SB. Do not drop them on the floor. Put all of them in a sixth muffin cup.
14) Remove the SB from the unit and set it on a non-static-y surface.

If you are just installing the $89 kit, follow the simple instructions for the 103 from their site, with these tips/warnings:

1) Gently plug the kit's cable into the bottom board.
2) When you tape the kit's board to the inside side wall of the chassis, make sure to locate the cable and board out of the way of the SB, headphone card (little square in low front right), and other cables.
3) Before putting the unit back together, plug in just the HDMI cable and power cord, start the unit, make sure you get video, and try a region-locked DVD from not your region.
4) If the unit passes the tests, power it down and jump to the section below on reassembly.
5) If the unit does not pass the tests, power it down, remove the kit, send an angry email to the vendor, and jump to the section below on reassembly.

There are a number of companies that region-lock their BDs: Disney, Criterion, Arrow Films, BFI, Eureka (Masters of Cinema), and probably others; so they have yet to see the light. So you need region-free BD capabilities if you want to be able to view any BD available.

At least for the standard kit, I did not have to unplug all the connector cables to install. Once you have removed all the screws from the board and pulled the board gently out from the back of the player, I found it was possible to move the board aside enough without disconnecting anything. My problem is that the standard kit seems to not work for BD region changes. It is working fine for DVDs.

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From the review;
Quote:
The BDP-105 is an update of the Oppo BDP-95, and the new one has lots of features the old player lacks, but the two players sound about the same. Oppo still has 95s in stock and sells them for $799.

That's three reviews in a row with pretty much the same opinion. Interesting.

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post #3268 of 11344 Old 01-27-2013, 08:35 AM
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I probably posted this on the wrong Oppo 105 forum. I am still on hold but the reviews all seem favorable. The one thing that I am curious most about is Rhapsody streaming since I already have Rhapsody. I mainly use it with my android phone and my Bose headphones when I am at the gym. According to Rhapsody they do high resolution streaming. Has anyone tried streaming Rhapsody to the 105 and how is the sound quality? I pay a monthly fee for Rhapsody and was wondering are there any other similar services out there?
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post #3269 of 11344 Old 01-27-2013, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by darkphader View Post

Of course I've been in contact with Oppo since virtually day one. Both via phone and email. It would be foolish to think otherwise.
No resolution yet.

Does anyone have a Roku stick in a 105 where the A/V stays perfectly in sync?

Yes - it seems so.

When I first got my Roku stick, I played a lot of music videos - a few hours - on VEVO and again last night along with also a handful of TED channel videos - all of them were perfectly in sync. I toggled between HDMI1 Vid/Analog Audio and HDMI2 Vid/HDMI Audio, paused, etc and never experienced any A/V sync issues. I have also never had any sync issues on the few Blu-ray discs I have watched - not sure if that is an area where problems have been seen or not.

My setup is Oppo into Marantz 7701 using both HDMI1&2 connected to different Marantz inputs and set up so that HDMI1 uses the analog audio outs and HDM2 uses HDMI audio so that I can easily switch between the two.

Does Oppo acknowledge a problem with the Roku stick? I wonder what would make it manifest on some systems and not others - bug or a defect? Or is it possibly and AVR / HDMI issue?

Stephen Powell
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post #3270 of 11344 Old 01-27-2013, 09:27 AM
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At least some (maybe all?) of these sync problems seem to be tied to interactions between the Oppo and particular pieces of equipment according to the reports on here. That may be why they are proving so difficult to fix.

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