Originally Posted by jimshowalter
This will be a long post.
Someone might want to copy it to another location.
Let me start by saying that I have never ripped, copied, or otherwise stolen so much as a single track, and that whenever someone brags about acquiring audio/video without paying for it, I challenge them to explain why that's any different from shoplifting. And if you google for "Martin Logan System 420" you can see our equipment closet and some of our shiny disks. I pay for media.
That being said, the pettiness of region locking infuriates me, and makes me want to drive to Hollywood and punch the first guy I see wearing a suit.
Even more infuriating, the biggest reason Hollywood wanted region locking was so they could reuse the film reels in Europe, and then Asia, after using them up in the US. It was just sheer moneygrubbing, plus it shows how much they care about their product--they were eager to dump aged tapes on the audience. Shame on them. And with digital distribution, this is now a non-issue.
Hollywood has perhaps realized the error of its ways. Try to buy a region-locked Blu-ray. The only one I ever found is the Region B Apocalypto. But that doesn't help those of us with hundreds of region-locked DVDs.
So. If you have region-locked DVDs and/or Blu-rays, or if you just object to region-locking on principle, here is a decision procedure:
- Do you only have region-locked DVDs?
-- If so, try the super.iso.
-- If it worked, you're done.
-- If it didn't work (it didn't work for me, but I might have burned it incorrectly, although the disk verified and looked correct), try the $89 bluraychip kit. It should work for DVDs. It worked for me, but...
- If you have region-locked Blu-rays...
-- The $89 bluraychip kit doesn't fix that (they say it does, but it doesn't, or at least didn't for me, and didn't for several others who have contacted me--if the vendor monitors this thread, please pay attention!),
-- So you need the PRO kit. Which is lamentable, because the $89 kit is fairly easy to install, but the PRO is invasive and kind of scary.
If you need either of the kits, installation in the 105 is a pain. Hollywood can't claim Oppo made this easy.
1) You'll need a medium screwdriver, a muffin pan, a work area, small/strong fingers, good up-close eyesight, bright lighting, steady nerves, and, ideally, a grounding strap for your wrist. Oh, and the patience of a saint.
2) Remove the cover, putting the four screws with big washers from the sides in one muffin cup and the other screws in another muffin cup.
3) With the front of the unit towards your belly, you'll see two boards on the top. The one at the back that runs from left to about 2/3rds of the way to the right is the multichannel board. I'll call that the MCB from now on. The board on the right that runs from back to about 6/7ths of the way to the front is the stereo board. I'll call that the SB from now on.
4) Put on the grounding strap and connect it to the chassis.
5) Remove the screws inside the unit from the MCB. Do not drop them into the unit. Keep track of which ones have the black cylindrical standoffs. Put all of them in a third muffin cup.
6) Remove the screws outside the unit from the MCB. Do not drop them on the floor. Put all of them in a fourth muffin cup.
7) Carefully pull the small flat blue-and-white ribbon cable that connects the MCB to the SB out of its connector. Tug only on the blue flap. Do not screw this up.
8) Carefully pull the black plug with red wires that connects the MCB to the SB off the SB. There is a little clip that you need to depress in order to do this. Do not screw this up.
9) Remove the MCB from the unit and set it on a non-static-y surface.
10) Carefully pull the small flat blue-and-white ribbon cable that connects the SB to the board below it out of its connector. Tug only on the blue flap. Do not screw this up.
11) Carefully pull the remaining three plugs off the SB board.
12) Remove the screws inside the unit from the SB. Do not drop them into the unit. Keep track of which ones have the black cylindrical standoffs. Put all of them in a fifth muffin cup.
13) Remove the screws outside the unit from the SB. Do not drop them on the floor. Put all of them in a sixth muffin cup.
14) Remove the SB from the unit and set it on a non-static-y surface.
If you are just installing the $89 kit, follow the simple instructions for the 103 from their site, with these tips/warnings:
1) Gently plug the kit's cable into the bottom board.
2) When you tape the kit's board to the inside side wall of the chassis, make sure to locate the cable and board out of the way of the SB, headphone card (little square in low front right), and other cables.
3) Before putting the unit back together, plug in just the HDMI cable and power cord, start the unit, make sure you get video, and try a region-locked DVD from not your region.
4) If the unit passes the tests, power it down and jump to the section below on reassembly.
5) If the unit does not pass the tests, power it down, remove the kit, send an angry email to the vendor, and jump to the section below on reassembly.
If you are installing the PRO kit:
If you bought the kit before 12/20/2012, sucks to be you. I did that. So:
1) Remove the USB drive from the kit.
2) Follow the instructions for downloading the rar, extracting the files, and copying them to the USB drive.
3) Keep the USB drive out of the kit for now.
To install the PRO kit, follow the instructions for the 103 from their site, with these tips/warnings:
1) The long cables are pretty easy to install, but try to keep them away from the big heatsink.
2) Before connecting the ribbbon cables, disconnect the black plug from the bottom board and connect it to the kit board, and then connect the kit to the bottom board.
3) Be very careful with the ribbon cables, and make sure you have them lined up straight before flipping the clips back down.
4) The right front corner gets really crowded and organic--you are trying to line up everything and lock it into place without knocking anything else out of whack, and without rubbing/touching/shorting anything. Breathe deeply and work slowly.
5) In particular, avoid the thin black strap at the bottom of the pile, and note how inconveniently it needs to clear the stud for (I think) the right front foot.
6) In order to avoid impinging the thin black strap at the bottom of the pile, I only taped down the end of the kit's board away from that strap.
If you bought the kit before 12/20/2012:
1) Plug in just the HDMI cable and power cord, start the unit, plug the USB drive into only the front USB socket, wait a bit, and, if all goes well the unit will shut down after 10-15 seconds after sync'ing to the kit.
2) Power down the unit.
3) Plug the USB drive back into the kit.
To test the PRO kit:
1) Plug in the HDMI cable and power cord.
2) Press whichever button corresponds to your Blu-ray region (1=A, 2=B, 3=C), and verify that the unit starts.
3) Put in a region-locked DVD for not your region.
4) Verify that the DVD plays fine.
5) Put in a region-locked Blu-ray from not your region and try to play it.
6) Verify that the Blu-ray does not play and you instead get a region error message.
7) Power down the unit.
8) Unplug the unit (or if you have a power control, for example a power strip, turn it off). The instructions say you don't have to do this, but in my experience it is necessary.
9) Wait 10 seconds.
10) Restore power to the unit.
11) Press whichever button corresponds to the Blu-ray region for the disk (1=A, 2=B, 3=C), and verify that the unit starts and plays the disk.
12) Jump to the section below on reassembly.
1) Reverse the disassembly process order. In particular, finish the SB before seating the MCB.
2) When seating the SB, be sure to pull the three plugs out from underneath because you can't do that at all with the two on the left if you forget, and it's difficult with the one in the front right.
3) To reseat the ribbon cable on the SB, push only on the blue flap. Don't screw this up. In particular, don't crimp the cable. A very very very gentle side-to-side motion can help.
4) Be very careful not to drop any screws inside the unit, lest you have to tear it back down and hope you can shake out the lost part before you lose your mind and then start over.
5) Just finger-tighten the screws on each board, both inside and outside the unit, until you are sure you have all the connections in place.
6) Don't strip the tiny delicate threads in the rear connectors when final tightening them.
7) Be sure you put the black cylindrical standoffs in the correct locations.
8) Hook up all cables and verify that video and audio work correctly.
I noticed that, at least with the PRO kit, startup is slower, there seem to be three handshakes (with itself apparently), each separated by a few seconds, and the Oppo startup logo is a washed-out mostly uniform blue (it's probably a canned image).
1) Join the EFF.
2) Vote for candidates who aren't shilling for large corporate interests, if any still exist.