Official OPPO BDP-105 Owner's Thread - Page 377 - AVS Forum
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post #11281 of 11530 Old 07-13-2014, 12:53 AM
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Regarding the 720p vs. 1080p discussion, I’ve actually had some time to test it a bit more thoroughly, and I have to reverse my previous assertion. I don’t perceive a lick of difference between the two. In playing around with it, I realized two factors were working together, and affecting my perception and after circumventing them, more or less, I found there was no difference.

The two things were:
1) The very act of “pushing a button” while changing resolutions.
2) The discontinuity of light and sound in my room for several seconds, while resolutions changed, along with the fall and rise of light and sound accompanying the change.

We are trained from the time we’re toddlers that pushing a button will exact some kind of effect. Thus, we have a practically hardwired response of suspending our other perceptions at the moment of a button push, where we become focused expectantly on waiting for that “thing” to happen, to the exclusion of all else, especially when that push is the only thing happening in our environment.

I found myself listening to some music, then shifting my attention to my monitor screen (I use a small TV to see my OPPO menus when I don’t want to turn on my projector and burn up its bulb) as I navigated through the resolution menus, then found the one I wanted, then selected it. That was several seconds of *not* attentively listening to the music anymore.

Then, once the resolution selection was underway, the lights in my room would dim as my display changed, and the sound would cut out. Then a second or two later, both light and sound levels would crescendo back to their previous levels. This—the discontinuity of perception, followed by a crescendoing rise in light and sound in my room—affected my perception enough to fool me into thinking the 720p was “brighter” and more dynamic. I also found that fluctuating dynamics within a piece of music added to the confusion.

Once I had switched to 720p and found it was a “brighter” sound, switching back to 1080p was reinterpreted in my mind as being duller—the expected converse.

How I got around this was fairly simple.

1) I memorized the steps for changing resolution on the remote. Bottom left button, click, down or up 2, click.
2) I simplified the process of changing by removing the final click, which made a huge difference. If you move your selection down from 1080 to 720 and just let it hover there for a few seconds, it will switch on its own. This allowed me several seconds to turn my attention back from the remote control, to the music at hand. It allowed me to reintegrate my attention fully with the music. It took away that moment of, “click…expect something…”, which was affecting my concentration on the music.
3) I turned off my monitor and the lights in the room.
4) I focused on my music utterly in the dark, set the OPPO to change resolutions without having to turn my head or shift my attention too much, then returned to the music and allowed the player to change on its own.

There’s no difference.

Omar
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post #11282 of 11530 Old 07-13-2014, 02:26 AM
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Hello,

I have some freezes lately. I have my cable box connected to de hdmi back input and today for the second time it froze when I was watching tv and wanted to start up Netflix on the remote red button no sound en the display on the Oppo freezes on hdmi back. I had to shut down the Oppo and restart. Secondly when I turn on the Oppo the tv says no input so I have to click every time on the remote home button to start up the homescreen of the Oppo.
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post #11283 of 11530 Old 07-13-2014, 03:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Harrie201 View Post
Hello,

I have some freezes lately. I have my cable box connected to de hdmi back input and today for the second time it froze when I was watching tv and wanted to start up Netflix on the remote red button no sound en the display on the Oppo freezes on hdmi back. I had to shut down the Oppo and restart. Secondly when I turn on the Oppo the tv says no input so I have to click every time on the remote home button to start up the homescreen of the Oppo.
Try switching to the OPPO homescreen first, before you hit the netflix button.

The TV says no input, because it is looking for the OPPO and you haven't turned it on yet, so thinks nothing is there. Try turning on the OPPO first, before you either turn on your TV, or attempt to switch to that input.

Omar
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post #11284 of 11530 Old 07-13-2014, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OmarF View Post
Regarding the 720p vs. 1080p discussion, I’ve actually had some time to test it a bit more thoroughly, and I have to reverse my previous assertion. I don’t perceive a lick of difference between the two. In playing around with it, I realized two factors were working together, and affecting my perception and after circumventing them, more or less, I found there was no difference.

The two things were:
1) The very act of “pushing a button” while changing resolutions.
2) The discontinuity of light and sound in my room for several seconds, while resolutions changed, along with the fall and rise of light and sound accompanying the change.

We are trained from the time we’re toddlers that pushing a button will exact some kind of effect. Thus, we have a practically hardwired response of suspending our other perceptions at the moment of a button push, where we become focused expectantly on waiting for that “thing” to happen, to the exclusion of all else, especially when that push is the only thing happening in our environment.

I found myself listening to some music, then shifting my attention to my monitor screen (I use a small TV to see my OPPO menus when I don’t want to turn on my projector and burn up its bulb) as I navigated through the resolution menus, then found the one I wanted, then selected it. That was several seconds of *not* attentively listening to the music anymore.

Then, once the resolution selection was underway, the lights in my room would dim as my display changed, and the sound would cut out. Then a second or two later, both light and sound levels would crescendo back to their previous levels. This—the discontinuity of perception, followed by a crescendoing rise in light and sound in my room—affected my perception enough to fool me into thinking the 720p was “brighter” and more dynamic. I also found that fluctuating dynamics within a piece of music added to the confusion.

Once I had switched to 720p and found it was a “brighter” sound, switching back to 1080p was reinterpreted in my mind as being duller—the expected converse.

How I got around this was fairly simple.

1) I memorized the steps for changing resolution on the remote. Bottom left button, click, down or up 2, click.
2) I simplified the process of changing by removing the final click, which made a huge difference. If you move your selection down from 1080 to 720 and just let it hover there for a few seconds, it will switch on its own. This allowed me several seconds to turn my attention back from the remote control, to the music at hand. It allowed me to reintegrate my attention fully with the music. It took away that moment of, “click…expect something…”, which was affecting my concentration on the music.
3) I turned off my monitor and the lights in the room.
4) I focused on my music utterly in the dark, set the OPPO to change resolutions without having to turn my head or shift my attention too much, then returned to the music and allowed the player to change on its own.

There’s no difference.

Omar
I tend to agree. Psychoacoustics at play here! I went through a similar process myself.

McIntosh MX121. McIntosh MC205. Focal Aria 948 Main Speakers, Aria CC900 Center. Focal Electra IC 1002 In-Ceiling Surrounds. Paradigm Studio Sub 15. Oppo BDP-105D. Roku XS. Roku 3. Apple TV(3). DirecTV. Panasonic TC-P65VT50. Samsung UN40FH6030F, URC MX-780.

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post #11285 of 11530 Old 07-13-2014, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OmarF View Post
...once the resolution selection was underway, the lights in my room would dim as my display changed, and the sound would cut out. Then a second or two later, both light and sound levels would crescendo back to their previous levels.
Dude that is not good. I would fear for your equipment failing from the power fluctuations.
Do you live in a house or an apartment?
If it's your house, I would highly recommend trying to circumvent that issue by running a new power line.
You can replace the old line with a new 20 amp line, or just add a new outlet with new power line if you have the extra room in your breaker box.
Of course you may have a situation where that's not possible, but I would try my best.

~Dave

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post #11286 of 11530 Old 07-13-2014, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Smarty-pants View Post
Dude that is not good. I would fear for your equipment failing from the power fluctuations.
Do you live in a house or an apartment?
If it's your house, I would highly recommend trying to circumvent that issue by running a new power line.
You can replace the old line with a new 20 amp line, or just add a new outlet with new power line if you have the extra room in your breaker box.
Of course you may have a situation where that's not possible, but I would try my best.
LOL
You misunderstand. My monitor was the only light in the room while I was listening, and it's running off HDMI 2. So, when I change the resolution, the dimming and returning is during the HDMI handshake :-) nothing is wrong with my power. The sound cuts out and the monitor momentarily blanks.

Omar
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post #11287 of 11530 Old 07-13-2014, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by OmarF View Post
LOL
You misunderstand. My monitor was the only light in the room while I was listening, and it's running off HDMI 2. So, when I change the resolution, the dimming and returning is during the HDMI handshake :-) nothing is wrong with my power. The sound cuts out and the monitor momentarily blanks.

Omar
Ohhh, I see now, sorry . I thought you were saying that you power was dimming and your display was dimming as a result of that.
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post #11288 of 11530 Old 07-13-2014, 10:10 AM
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^ Cliche scene from cheap film noir. Means they just pulled the switch at the Big House.
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post #11289 of 11530 Old 07-13-2014, 10:48 AM
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^ Cliche scene from cheap film noir. Means they just pulled the switch at the Big House.
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Laugh! If anything, my new SVS should dim the lights :-)
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post #11290 of 11530 Old 07-13-2014, 02:01 PM
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Smile

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Laugh! If anything, my new SVS should dim the lights :-)
You'll be surprised how efficient those things are. (I'm assuming you're talking about an SVS sub. )

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post #11291 of 11530 Old 07-13-2014, 02:10 PM
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You'll be surprised how efficient those things are. (I'm assuming you're talking about an SVS sub. )
Yah, SVS SB-13 Ultra. It's a 1000 watt amp, I figured the resting power consumption of, what, ~380 watts was an indication of how power hungry it is. Not that I mind in the least I'll gladly foot the power bill for it, the way it sounds.

I'd heard about it from one friend who was shopping subs. Then another friend was shopping around and got one. It sounded so nice in his home, I borrowed it and never gave it back I had a Vandersteen V2W sub for LFE to match my mains, but it just doesn't have the punch and definition the SVS has. Time and technology march on.

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post #11292 of 11530 Old 07-13-2014, 02:26 PM
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I know. I have two of those beasts.

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post #11293 of 11530 Old 07-13-2014, 02:46 PM
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I know. I have two of those beasts.
Are you crossing your mains over to them, or using them as dual LFE channels?

At first, I thought I might need two to balance the room out, but I found a very sweet spot for the one, and it's completely sonically invisible, so I suspect I'll only need the one...so far.

Omar
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post #11294 of 11530 Old 07-13-2014, 03:18 PM
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I'm crossing my mains over to them at 60 hz.

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post #11295 of 11530 Old 07-13-2014, 03:55 PM
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I'm crossing my mains over to them at 60 hz.
okay. I've been questioning the necessity of dual LFE when one isn't crossing over any channels. It would seem to be overkill.
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post #11296 of 11530 Old 07-13-2014, 04:49 PM
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As much as I love SVS too, this is the BDP-105 thread
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post #11297 of 11530 Old 07-14-2014, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OmarF View Post
Yah, SVS SB-13 Ultra. It's a 1000 watt amp, I figured the resting power consumption of, what, ~380 watts was an indication of how power hungry it is. Not that I mind in the least I'll gladly foot the power bill for it, the way it sounds.


Omar
They have class D amps. Hard to believe they have a Class A bias type power draw. Where does the 380 w idle power draw info come from?
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post #11298 of 11530 Old 07-14-2014, 08:53 AM
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They have class D amps. Hard to believe they have a Class A bias type power draw. Where does the 380 w idle power draw info come from?
Thought I read it on the spec sheet somewhere. But I could be wrong. P.m. if you want to talk more about them.

Omar
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post #11299 of 11530 Old 07-14-2014, 06:44 PM
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I have a pair of Velodyne HGS-15s with 1000 watt amps that I leave in standby mode continuously. They turn themselves on when a signal is detected. I've always assumed the standby power draw is minimal, and we don't get electrical bills that would suggest otherwise. I also have five 500-watts-into-4Ω Proceed HPA amps that I leave in standby mode. I sure hope you're wrong, Omar, or that it is specific SVS subs.

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post #11300 of 11530 Old 07-14-2014, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by dbphd View Post
I have a pair of Velodyne HGS-15s with 1000 watt amps that I leave in standby mode continuously. They turn themselves on when a signal is detected. I've always assumed the standby power draw is minimal, and we don't get electrical bills that would suggest otherwise. I also have five 500-watts-into-4Ω Proceed HPA amps that I leave in standby mode. I sure hope you're wrong, Omar, or that it is specific SVS subs.

db
I recommend buying a Kill-a-watt or similar meter for those who want to know about standby power usage. I have found that many products do not specify the standby power properly and I have been surprised. Many power specifications are also maximum and may draw much less power than specified.


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post #11301 of 11530 Old 07-14-2014, 09:18 PM
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I have a pair of Velodyne HGS-15s with 1000 watt amps that I leave in standby mode continuously. They turn themselves on when a signal is detected. I've always assumed the standby power draw is minimal, and we don't get electrical bills that would suggest otherwise. I also have five 500-watts-into-4Ω Proceed HPA amps that I leave in standby mode. I sure hope you're wrong, Omar, or that it is specific SVS subs.

db
I'm sorry, I didn't express myself correctly. On the SVS standby mode is a very low power draw. Leaving it turned on idling is the higher power draw I was talking about.

Smarty is right though, let's talk OPPO :-)
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post #11302 of 11530 Old 07-15-2014, 07:26 AM
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Ok I received my 105 about a week ago. I have it running directly to an Emotiva UPA-7 amp and I'll suffice to say the sound is absolutely gorgeous. My previous player was the 83 and while no slouch, the refinement on so many levels is really something. Anyway I do have a few questions.


Is it recommended to use the dedicated L/R stereo out's for the front L/R speakers ?


PCM vs DSD output for SACD is merely a matter of taste? Toggling back and forth I seemed to prefer PCM. When I left it on auto it appeared the player always selected PCM.


Last nite I plugged in the wifi dongle to start investigating the players wireless capabilities. That came to a screeching halt when I was only getting a 44% signal strength. I don't have this problem with the TV, laptop, or smartphones. Moving the router isn't an option. Short of running a 100ft Ethernet cable down the hall, up the stairs, and across the living room is there any options to boost the signal strength.


Thanks in advance,
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post #11303 of 11530 Old 07-15-2014, 08:49 AM
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Ok I received my 105 about a week ago. I have it running directly to an Emotiva UPA-7 amp and I'll suffice to say the sound is absolutely gorgeous. My previous player was the 83 and while no slouch, the refinement on so many levels is really something. Anyway I do have a few questions.


Is it recommended to use the dedicated L/R stereo out's for the front L/R speakers ?
Yes! Don't forget to change the proper menu setting from STEREO to FRONT L/R

PCM vs DSD output for SACD is merely a matter of taste? Toggling back and forth I seemed to prefer PCM. When I left it on auto it appeared the player always selected PCM.
I don't think you get base management with DSD. Theoretically, there should be no difference in sound anyway.
If you like PCM, all the better. Keep it on PCM.


Last nite I plugged in the wifi dongle to start investigating the players wireless capabilities. That came to a screeching halt when I was only getting a 44% signal strength. I don't have this problem with the TV, laptop, or smartphones. Moving the router isn't an option. Short of running a 100ft Ethernet cable down the hall, up the stairs, and across the living room is there any options to boost the signal strength.
The player comes with an extension base that can be plugged into the player, then plug the wifi dongle into the base.
Place the base where your signal is strongest. If your signal is still too weak, then your only other option is a hard wired connection.
Keep in mind, sometimes just little changes in placement of the base and/or router can make a big difference, so it's worth experimenting with
if you really can't do a hard wired connection.


Thanks in advance,
Dan
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post #11304 of 11530 Old 07-16-2014, 12:26 PM
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Connection questions with Pioneer Elite VSX-60

I have a new BDP-105 and am trying to connect to my system. ..here is what I have and want to do:

BDP-105 - use as blu-ray, CD play, SACD, and DAC for MacMini via USB
Pioneer Elite VSX-60 - being used as a 2.1 system primarily for music
B&W CM10
MacMini - media
VerizonFIOS Cable box

I am having trouble getting this all connected and working . . .specifically I want to leverage the DACs in the BDP whenever possible - for the MacMini, CD and SACD. . and (if I understand correctly), this occurs when the analog RCA inputs are in use (from the BDP). What seems to be happening is that whenever the Pioneer senses HDMI it grabs that signal and (I presume) then uses its DACS, bypassing the RCA. I want to use BOTH HDMI for visuals for the MacMini and CD/SACD but use the analog RCA for sound.

Any guidance here on what I am missing? Thanks
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post #11305 of 11530 Old 07-16-2014, 12:46 PM
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^ Sounds like your problem is really how to get the Pioneer AVR set up correctly. The owner's thread here for your Pioneer would likely be the most help.

You want the Pioneer to use HDMI video, but also multi-channel Analog audio (so you can pass the Subwoofer output from the OPPO in addition to Front L/R). There must be a setting in the Pioneer for that.

Check its Manual. It might help to see how it says to connect a DVI source device. Those would send video to an HDMI Input, but would need a separate hookup for audio to the Pioneer.

To be sure you are not accidentally getting HDMI Audio from the OPPO, you can set HDMI Audio OFF.
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post #11306 of 11530 Old 07-16-2014, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scirica View Post
I tend to agree. Psychoacoustics at play here! I went through a similar process myself.
Quote:
Originally Posted by OmarF View Post
Regarding the 720p vs. 1080p discussion, I’ve actually had some time to test it a bit more thoroughly, and I have to reverse my previous assertion. I don’t perceive a lick of difference between the two. In playing around with it, I realized two factors were working together, and affecting my perception and after circumventing them, more or less, I found there was no difference.

The two things were:
1) The very act of “pushing a button” while changing resolutions.
2) The discontinuity of light and sound in my room for several seconds, while resolutions changed, along with the fall and rise of light and sound accompanying the change.

We are trained from the time we’re toddlers that pushing a button will exact some kind of effect. Thus, we have a practically hardwired response of suspending our other perceptions at the moment of a button push, where we become focused expectantly on waiting for that “thing” to happen, to the exclusion of all else, especially when that push is the only thing happening in our environment.

I found myself listening to some music, then shifting my attention to my monitor screen (I use a small TV to see my OPPO menus when I don’t want to turn on my projector and burn up its bulb) as I navigated through the resolution menus, then found the one I wanted, then selected it. That was several seconds of *not* attentively listening to the music anymore.

Then, once the resolution selection was underway, the lights in my room would dim as my display changed, and the sound would cut out. Then a second or two later, both light and sound levels would crescendo back to their previous levels. This—the discontinuity of perception, followed by a crescendoing rise in light and sound in my room—affected my perception enough to fool me into thinking the 720p was “brighter” and more dynamic. I also found that fluctuating dynamics within a piece of music added to the confusion.

Once I had switched to 720p and found it was a “brighter” sound, switching back to 1080p was reinterpreted in my mind as being duller—the expected converse.

How I got around this was fairly simple.

1) I memorized the steps for changing resolution on the remote. Bottom left button, click, down or up 2, click.
2) I simplified the process of changing by removing the final click, which made a huge difference. If you move your selection down from 1080 to 720 and just let it hover there for a few seconds, it will switch on its own. This allowed me several seconds to turn my attention back from the remote control, to the music at hand. It allowed me to reintegrate my attention fully with the music. It took away that moment of, “click…expect something…”, which was affecting my concentration on the music.
3) I turned off my monitor and the lights in the room.
4) I focused on my music utterly in the dark, set the OPPO to change resolutions without having to turn my head or shift my attention too much, then returned to the music and allowed the player to change on its own.

There’s no difference.

Omar
I hear a significant difference with the player at 720. I put my wife at the switch a couple of nights ago, late at night, no noise' and she switched back and forth without me knowing if the player was set up at 1080p or 720. Using the same song, I was never wrong which set up I was listening to, twice she didn't change it at all and I called her on it. With about 12 tries I feel very confident.

It's great that you don't hear a difference, sometimes I forget to switch back to 1080p for movies and it's a real pain.

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post #11307 of 11530 Old 07-16-2014, 01:26 PM
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Ok I received my 105 about a week ago. I have it running directly to an Emotiva UPA-7 amp and I'll suffice to say the sound is absolutely gorgeous. My previous player was the 83 and while no slouch, the refinement on so many levels is really something. Anyway I do have a few questions.


Is it recommended to use the dedicated L/R stereo out's for the front L/R speakers ?


PCM vs DSD output for SACD is merely a matter of taste? Toggling back and forth I seemed to prefer PCM. When I left it on auto it appeared the player always selected PCM.


Last nite I plugged in the wifi dongle to start investigating the players wireless capabilities. That came to a screeching halt when I was only getting a 44% signal strength. I don't have this problem with the TV, laptop, or smartphones. Moving the router isn't an option. Short of running a 100ft Ethernet cable down the hall, up the stairs, and across the living room is there any options to boost the signal strength.


Thanks in advance,
Dan
Get the dongle onto the extension cable. Move it around, like what was said already, to get the best signal strength. If the signal is still weak, go buy a more powerful wireless router or get a wireless range extender.

With dual subs, stack'em in the corner and put on a jockstrap. Don't want EVERYTHING in the room jingling!
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post #11308 of 11530 Old 07-17-2014, 08:34 AM
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Get the dongle onto the extension cable. Move it around, like what was said already, to get the best signal strength. If the signal is still weak, go buy a more powerful wireless router or get a wireless range extender.
This
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post #11309 of 11530 Old 07-17-2014, 08:44 AM
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This
Maybe.

With dual subs, stack'em in the corner and put on a jockstrap. Don't want EVERYTHING in the room jingling!
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post #11310 of 11530 Old 07-17-2014, 09:24 AM
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