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post #241 of 366 Old 10-30-2011, 06:23 PM
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Hey buddy,

Any updates to share, the last time we heard from our hero he was battling sump pump and bathroom issues, what perils does he face now? Only he know, as he has not updated his thread forever or at least 185 days!

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post #242 of 366 Old 12-04-2011, 06:15 AM - Thread Starter
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A shameless bump in my own thread to avoid the pitfalls of going to the archives.

But I finally, finally, picked up an XBOX 360 Slim. It was a sale on Thanksgiving for the Xbox + COD:MW3 for 199.99. My son and I have been playing alot since that day. I should have wrapped it up and put it under the tree, but technically this was a give my wife wanted me to buy for myself last Christmas or my last Birthday and I never did.

I have been missing out...COD is awesome and just when I thought Campaigns were all the fun, I went online (gamer tag ZzKeZuGzZ). I suck and get killed a LOT, but it sure is fun.

I also got the Media Center working and can share/stream a ton of stuff from my PC.

My rack updated...yes, I still have a VCR in there for nostalgia purposes:


Oh, and I finally got my bathroom done: here is an update:


and this is an interesting perspective as well:
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post #243 of 366 Old 12-04-2011, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kezug View Post

But I finally, finally, picked up an XBOX 360 Slim. It was a sale on Thanksgiving for the Xbox + COD:MW3 for 199.99. My son and I have been playing alot since that day. I should have wrapped it up and put it under the tree, but technically this was a give my wife wanted me to buy for myself last Christmas or my last Birthday and I never did.

I have been missing out...COD is awesome and just when I thought Campaigns were all the fun, I went online (gamer tag ZzKeZuGzZ). I suck and get killed a LOT, but it sure is fun.

[/IMG]

Well well well welcome to the party. That is a great price for the slim considering it included a brand new $60 game. Send me a friend request if I dont find you first. My gamertag is in my signature. Judging by yours I think we have met

Online (multiplayer)is FAR superior to single player/campaign mode though they are both good. Multiplayer is just a whole nother world. There are a TON of AVSers on there as well. We will have to get together and play on there.

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post #244 of 366 Old 12-04-2011, 09:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Well well well welcome to the party. That is a great price for the slim considering it included a brand new $60 game. Send me a friend request if I dont find you first. My gamertag is in my signature. Judging by yours I think we have met

Online (multiplayer)is FAR superior to single player/campaign mode though they are both good. Multiplayer is just a whole nother world. There are a TON of AVSers on there as well. We will have to get together and play on there.

I will add you soon...yes, your gamer tag gave me the idea of the Zz's
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post #245 of 366 Old 12-24-2011, 05:41 PM
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Great build! I'm looking at starting a new build and I got a lot of great ideas from this thread. A few questions for you...

1. Can you share a picture of the back side of your equipment rack? I'm curious how it's supported from below.

2. How do you attach the crown to the soffut? Is it just nailed along the bottom or do you have supports at the top?

3. I really like the projector mounted in the rear soffut. Do you have your projector tilted downward at the screen? I've read other threads where the keystone correction in such setups degrades the picture, and have been hesitant to do this.
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post #246 of 366 Old 12-26-2011, 07:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Great build! I'm looking at starting a new build and I got a lot of great ideas from this thread. A few questions for you...

1. Can you share a picture of the back side of your equipment rack? I'm curious how it's supported from below.

2. How do you attach the crown to the soffut? Is it just nailed along the bottom or do you have supports at the top?

3. I really like the projector mounted in the rear soffut. Do you have your projector tilted downward at the screen? I've read other threads where the keystone correction in such setups degrades the picture, and have been hesitant to do this.

Thanks!

1. I dont have any pics and while looking at the back of my racks and thinking about taking a pic makes me have to clean all that area up...so, it may be awhile before I get a pic of that area

However, its kind of simple. Think of a 2x4 table, with the rack sitting on top of it. But I only have 2 legs on this table and that supports the very rear of the rack. The legs are just resting on the cement floor. Where the "other 2 legs would be", I just have it secured to the studs in my wall.

2. The crown is nailed in on the bottom part of the moulding directly into the soffit. I used a compressor/nail gun for this and it did take precise aiming to get the gun angled properly to get into the moulding and up into the framing of my soffit.

3. My projects (PT-AX200u) has a tilt shift lens. The project itself is level in the shelf and I just have to use the tilt shift on the projector to get the projected image squared to my screen. There is no keystone correction needed. Again, thats because the Panny allows for this. That is one of the great features of this awesome projector.

I hope this answers your questions...if you need more clarification on the rack question feel free to let me know. Thanks.
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post #247 of 366 Old 01-02-2012, 11:12 AM
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So when do you feel like coming to MN to build me some columns for my speakers?

I'm about to pull the trigger on my 3rd Xbox360. We have the slim up in our loft and the original "fatty" down in the theater. I bought the older one when they first came out, so it lacks an HDMI port and requires this adapter to do it.

So the ethernet port went out on the old one a few months ago. Microsoft wants $99 to repair it. I can get a used 360 arcade for the same price (which also probably has HDMI on-board), so I'm thinking of going that route and moving this one to the master bedroom to deliver HULU to the tv.
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post #248 of 366 Old 01-23-2012, 03:35 PM - Thread Starter
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So my Panasonic PT-AX200u is nearing 2000 hours and I have noticed some dimming of the bulb.

- Do I purchase a new bulb
or
- Do I sell the 200u and get an AE4000?

How much could I expect to get for the 200u with nearly 2000 hours? I have no issue of flicker and it performs solidly!

I dont care about 3D (overrated in my opinion)...so would the AE4000 be a great step up from the 200u?

And is the AR100 better than the AE4000?
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post #249 of 366 Old 01-23-2012, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kezug View Post

So my Panasonic PT-AX200u is nearing 2000 hours and I have noticed some dimming of the bulb.

- Do I purchase a new bulb
or
- Do I sell the 200u and get an AE4000?

How much could I expect to get for the 200u with nearly 2000 hours? I have no issue of flicker and it performs solidly!

I dont care about 3D (overrated in my opinion)...so would the AE4000 be a great step up from the 200u?

And is the AR100 better than the AE4000?


I agree with you that at the moment 3D is not yet quite ready for prime time or the HT. I honestly don't know a lot about the panny's but I would think that the 4000 would be a nice step up from the 200. Better contrast ratio 1080 vs. 720 and you get the motorized lens deal that is the poor mans anamorphic lens. To many that is a big deal.

I know even less about the AR100.

I would say if you can swing it I think it is time for an upgrade.

Regards,

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post #250 of 366 Old 01-24-2012, 02:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kezug View Post

So my Panasonic PT-AX200u is nearing 2000 hours and I have noticed some dimming of the bulb.

- Do I purchase a new bulb
or
- Do I sell the 200u and get an AE4000?

How much could I expect to get for the 200u with nearly 2000 hours? I have no issue of flicker and it performs solidly!

I dont care about 3D (overrated in my opinion)...so would the AE4000 be a great step up from the 200u?

And is the AR100 better than the AE4000?

I sold my 200 when I started building theater 2.0, then purchased the 4000. I was on the pre-order list for the new 7000 (3D model) but decided that 3D was not for me just yet. Combine that with the great price I got on the 4000 and it was a no brainer. The newer AR100 is brighter (I believe) but you loose the lens memory and some other goodies. This is why I stuck with the 4000. As far as how much you could get I am not sure. When I sold my 200 (a year or more ago)it had less than 900 hours on it (maybe even less I dont recall). I sold it to a fellow AVS'er for somewhere around 600 or so.

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post #251 of 366 Old 01-24-2012, 06:24 AM - Thread Starter
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thanks for the replies guys.

Steve, the AE4000 has 1600 lumens vs the 200u with 2000 lumens. Did you notice the brightness difference?

I do have a light controlled room but I dont want to always watch the projector in total darkness (sports and xbox, I like to have the room lit some).

I do see that the contrast ratio is significantly higher on the AE4000 but I am not sure I know what that means when comparing one against the other.
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post #252 of 366 Old 01-24-2012, 10:19 AM
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I honestly dont recall for 2 reasons. The first is there was a pretty long gap between when I sold the 200 to when I finally fired up the 4000. Also I have not watched a movie yet on the 4000, just used to to light up the new screen a bit. Also when I had the 200 I did not have a screen so the comparisons are hard to make from my viewpoint.

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post #253 of 366 Old 03-05-2012, 01:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok guys, I am embarking on the next phase of my basement. I consider this full force ahead now that I have a design (well sort of) for my next phase of my basement.

If you have been apart of my earlier posts, I was going to make a hinged cabinet to gain access behind the cabinet for extra storage. I nixed that idea and will just rather focus on the wall unit itself and nothing fancier.

I have 2 designs that I am tracking at the moment and they are similar except once is more dimensional on the vertical plane and is recessed further back into the wall. This "closet" is nearly 28" deep and I want to make every use of that space.

Since this is all going to be custom made, the bottom cabinets will either be standard 24" deep or 28" deep if I stay flush with the forefront wall.

Any feedback on these designs will be greatly appreciated. I have been scouring the net for ideas for inspiration and found a couple that led me to these 2 designs...



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post #254 of 366 Old 03-05-2012, 01:35 PM
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I like picture 1 better but maybe a mix of the 2? Maybe bring the bottom half out flush with the wall and set the top half back a bit (only if you prefer #2). All that said I like picture #1 the best.

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post #255 of 366 Old 03-05-2012, 03:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks buddy for the response.

The one thing that kills me and forces me to recess further into the cavity is that I have nearly 18" of dead space behind that upper part of the cabinet if I keep everything flush. That is why earlier I was thinking to hinge the whole thing and swing it out, but that really adds to the complexity and I fear that the hinge will sag and too much stress will be put on the shelves causing it to flex and then not sit well when put back.
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post #256 of 366 Old 03-05-2012, 03:52 PM
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Ha, well I'll add my .02 worth. I like #2 actually. Having that little bit of recess adds a little bit of interest on an otherwise flat wall. Maybe what it will boil down to is what is actually easier for you to do. I actually like both if I'm being honest, just like #2 better.

Like the overall plan though should turn out very nice.

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post #257 of 366 Old 03-05-2012, 05:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks my other Hoosier buddy. I am favoring #2 as well. I am still tweaking the design a bit.

But just as all things, I will have a bunch of prepping to do before I get started.
1. Rework some wiring as my out in this "closet" is all the way to the right wall. I want to move it dead center behind the lower cabinet as that is were all the goods will be.
2. run some chase for the cables that are fed from cable box, network switch and coax which is near my A/V Rack.
3. cap off a water line that runs above this unit, which is for an outside faucet, which means I will have to run a new faucet in another part of the basement for the outside.

Until those are done, there will be no cabinet building!
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post #258 of 366 Old 03-05-2012, 05:25 PM
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Well my opinion has been crushed!! lol

I am sticking with #1. I didn't know you wanted access to the rear......maybe do either "bookcase" on either side of the center/tv section on hinges? This way the hinges wont be under nearly as much stress?

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post #259 of 366 Old 03-06-2012, 07:45 AM
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More importantly, how soon can you be in Minnesota to build me a couple of columns for my new stage?
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post #260 of 366 Old 03-06-2012, 05:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Well my opinion has been crushed!! lol

... I didn't know you wanted access to the rear ...

Hey now!
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post #261 of 366 Old 03-06-2012, 05:18 PM - Thread Starter
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More importantly, how soon can you be in Minnesota to build me a couple of columns for my new stage?

Lol! If only you lived closer, I surely would stop over to see what I could do.
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post #262 of 366 Old 03-07-2012, 06:51 AM
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Lol! If only you lived closer, I surely would stop over to see what I could do.

* insert sad face here *
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post #263 of 366 Old 03-11-2012, 09:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Ugh! My WIFE (notice the caps..there is some emotion going on here) would like me to add some puck lighting to hit the 2 shelves on the side and the upper shelf in the middle.

I was at Menards to 1 hour just staring at the LED strips and Puck lighting and am now more confused than ever...from 12v, transformers or 120v options and all the restrictions on how to power those things has my head spinning.

I ended up buying these but am not sure if this is the best option.
Patriot Lighting 5 Puck Xenon lights - BLACK

I am not sure if I can run these wires above the cabinets behind the upper molding as that might be restricted. If I dont, then the wires are goign to be exposed somewhat (I could put a lower overhang lip in the upper cabinets but then where do I plug in the those pucks?

I see 2 options. I could make the upper crown molding very easy to remove and have an outlight behind that molding (hidden) and plug in there. Thus hiding all wires (but I think that is considered buried or behind walls)

If that is unsafe, then my only other option is to put an outlet high up in one of the upper shelves and just do my best to tidy up the wiring and just plug it straight in there. The plug has a switch on it so I am ok with not having an actual light switch to power it.

UGH!

Or, I was thinking to just do rope lighting and run it on the back side of my stiles of the cabinetry. This will then light all the cabinet shelves, not just the top shelves on the sides (which is what the pucks will only be able to light).

Help! All 3 of you! Or should I start a separate thread on this?
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post #264 of 366 Old 03-11-2012, 10:22 AM
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Doug,

I think that running wires behind the crown IMO (as I'm not a code enforcer or an electrician) would not consider them to be buried especially if you can make the crown removable to gain access to the wires.

If you are really worried about it the rope lighting would be the "safest" option but would not be able to provide the direct lighting like a puck would if that is what the WIFE wants.

I have seen the pucks you bought at Menards and have looked at them for my under cabinet lighting in my kitchenette. I would try to stay away from the transformer options, just another thing to manage.

Well at least you have heard from one part of the trio, now for the other two to chime in!

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post #265 of 366 Old 03-13-2012, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
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Ugh! My WIFE (notice the caps..there is some emotion going on here) would like me to add some puck lighting to hit the 2 shelves on the side and the upper shelf in the middle.


I feel your pain. My wife and I are currently in a battle over the basement bar design. She wants a full size fridge and I want a hidden one under the bar. We must band together!!!!!!!
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post #266 of 366 Old 03-13-2012, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
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I feel your pain. My wife and I are currently in a battle over the basement bar design. She wants a full size fridge and I want a hidden one under the bar. We must band together!!!!!!!

Go full size and don't look back. You can store more beer!! I did a mini/2 door model and while it does hold a ton I would like a larger one at times

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post #267 of 366 Old 03-13-2012, 11:10 AM
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The big issue is that I don't want to take away from the look of the bar. I wanted to copy commercial bars where the entire back bar is full of bottles. We'll probably end up compromising by doing a glass front fridge, which should at least look a little cooler.
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post #268 of 366 Old 03-13-2012, 03:24 PM
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^ Is there a place offset where the fridge could be hidden a tad? This would give the best of both worlds. Or maybe something in between what she wants and what you want like this?

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post #269 of 366 Old 03-14-2012, 09:38 AM
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Answer: Fridges, garages, theater rooms, boats, swimming pools

Question: What are things that are never big enough, regardless of how much thought you put into it?
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post #270 of 366 Old 03-18-2012, 07:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Does anyone know of a good online source for cabinet doors? I could not find the doors at Menards without having to special order...I thought to turn to the internet to see if I could find a better deal and faster shipping (Menards estimates 3-4 weeks for shipping!)
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