APC H15 Power Conditioner - review - Page 10 - AVS Forum
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post #271 of 298 Old 05-17-2012, 08:02 PM
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I'm considering upgrading my AVR soon....to one that no longer offers AC outlets (that I use for my sub).

I have the H15 power conditioner and I've read the warnings on using the subwoofer outlet as it may cause fuses to blow. Is the purpose of this outlet to allow for automatic power switching, though or is it just for protection like the other outlets?

With my future AVR not offering the switched outlets, what other methods are available to automatically turn on the sub?

My sub is an old Klipsch SW8 II (http://www.klipsch.com/sw-8-ii).
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post #272 of 298 Old 05-17-2012, 08:39 PM
 
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First, you should NEVER use an AVR outlet to provide electricity for a sub. This removes valuable energy needed for the AVR amps.

The H15 'SUBWOOFER' outlet is nothing more than any other of the outlets (except for power on/off switching outlets) and is printed there as a suggestion only. Plug whatever you want in that outlet. That said, I have a 500watt sub plugged into the H15 and haven't experienced and 'blown fuses' in over 4 years of use.

As to how you switch the sub on/off, buy one that has AUTO ON. Another option is to replace the Klipsch amp with an AUTO ON amp. Finally (and the way I would go if I were you) just leave the sub plugged in. If it isn't being used, the sub amp uses next to nothing in power and you'd never see a difference in your electric bill & it won't hurt a thing.
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post #273 of 298 Old 05-17-2012, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

First, you should NEVER use an AVR outlet to provide electricity for a sub. This removes valuable energy needed for the AVR amps.

Nonsense. Sometimes it makes sense. Sometimes it doesn't. In this case, the subwoofer in question is only rated 65W continuous, hardly a problem.
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post #274 of 298 Old 05-17-2012, 10:12 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colm View Post

Nonsense. Sometimes it makes sense. Sometimes it doesn't. In this case, the subwoofer in question is only rated 65W continuous, hardly a problem.

Ask anyone. That 65watts can certainly peak much, much higher...but you just keep believing what you want.
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post #275 of 298 Old 05-18-2012, 06:14 AM
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Thanks for the info, guys.

What about this "trigger" function I'm reading about? The new AVR supports it. If I understand it correctly, it involves a small phono cable that is connected between the AVR and the power conditioner that will "trigger" the power for whatever is connected to these specific outlets. If that is the case, problem solved!

As for never using the AC outlets on an AVR for a sub, wow, I have never heard that. It was always implied to me at the time that they were made available for just such purposes. I've never had a problem on the last three AVRs I've used, but I do like the idea of not robbing my AMP of power (even if it is only 65W).
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post #276 of 298 Old 05-18-2012, 06:59 AM
 
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Those outlets were (at the time) meant for phonograph, cassette deck, DVD player etc...Never meant for wild, pulsating swings of power, much like a sub will cause when using for a movie.

And yes, the trigger works like that for the switched outlets. You plug a (1/8" I think?) cable from the pre-amp to the H15 and then plug in the sub to one of those switched outlets on the H15. When you turn the power to the AVR on, then the switch allows power to the sub. But of course this requires a pre-amp (AVR) with the switch jacks. Those are usually the higher tier of amps (AVR) and those (usually) have outlets anyway. Of course, the way things are going to the bare minimum lately, I wouldn't be surprised to see an AVR offer trigger output(s) and no outlets. What AVR are you looking at getting?
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post #277 of 298 Old 05-18-2012, 07:49 AM
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Yep. got my turntable hooked up to the second AC outlet right now.

I first had my eye on the Yamaha RX-A3010 but I think the RX-A2010 will be fine for my needs. They both have the trigger jacks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

Those outlets were (at the time) meant for phonograph, cassette deck, DVD player etc...Never meant for wild, pulsating swings of power, much like a sub will cause when using for a movie.

And yes, the trigger works like that for the switched outlets. You plug a (1/8" I think?) cable from the pre-amp to the H15 and then plug in the sub to one of those switched outlets on the H15. When you turn the power to the AVR on, then the switch allows power to the sub. But of course this requires a pre-amp (AVR) with the switch jacks. Those are usually the higher tier of amps (AVR) and those (usually) have outlets anyway. Of course, the way things are going to the bare minimum lately, I wouldn't be surprised to see an AVR offer trigger output(s) and no outlets. What AVR are you looking at getting?

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post #278 of 298 Old 05-18-2012, 09:50 AM
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I just discovered that my RX-V3800 supports DC trigger also, although not well documented in the manual. I think I am going to make the change in my current setup to utilize the trigger (my sub has fuse protection. Heh Heh). The only trouble is I do not have the necessary cable. The APC H15 didn't come with one and neither did the AVR.

So it is basically just a standard mini-phono cable, correct?
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post #279 of 298 Old 05-18-2012, 03:03 PM
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More nonsense.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

Ask anyone.

Must be what you did this time.
Quote:


That 65watts can certainly peak much, much higher...

Amp has 2 dB headroom, max is 100 watts. Assuming 50% efficiency, max draw is maybe 2 amps, ignoring in-rush current when the amp is powered on, and that should be limited, hardly a concern. It is not like this is a house wrecker sub.
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...but you just keep believing what you want.

Well, if it is between believing what I know, and believing you, I'll go with me any day, at least on this one. Strange, you usally get these things right.
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post #280 of 298 Old 05-18-2012, 04:19 PM
 
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Well, you go with what you think, the rest of us will go with what's right...
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post #281 of 298 Old 05-18-2012, 04:20 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdryyz View Post

I just discovered that my RX-V3800 supports DC trigger also, although not well documented in the manual. I think I am going to make the change in my current setup to utilize the trigger (my sub has fuse protection. Heh Heh). The only trouble is I do not have the necessary cable. The APC H15 didn't come with one and neither did the AVR.

So it is basically just a standard mini-phono cable, correct?

Correct. Any Radio shack or some video game connecting cable should do the trick...
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post #282 of 298 Old 05-18-2012, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

Well, you go with what you think, the rest of us will go with what's right...

Gee, you are awfully long on rhetoric and short on facts today. You got a mouse in your pocket?
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post #283 of 298 Old 05-19-2012, 08:13 AM
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I went out and grabbed a 6' mini-phono cable and hooked one end of the cable to the H15's DC Trigger "IN" and the other to one of the two DC Triggers on my AVR. Then, my sub's power cord was plugged into the subwoofer outlet on the H15.

It works! There's a slight delay before the sub comes on but that is how it is designed.

I have a new problem, however. Now when the sub is powered down, I hear a rather loud "pop" coming from it. When it was connected directly to the AVR's outlet and the AVR was switched off, at most all I heard was a little blip.

Is there anything that can be done to stop this pop from happening?
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post #284 of 298 Old 05-19-2012, 03:32 PM
 
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A "pop" or a 'thump'? If the former, that doesn't sound good and I would investigate maybe using the other DC trigger on the AVR. If a thump, that is just the sub amp. Annoying as hell but won't hurt anything. If too annoying, as I suggested earlier, just leave it plugged in directly. When in stand-by, the power consumption is minimal at worst.
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post #285 of 298 Old 05-19-2012, 05:35 PM
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It is more of a thump, actually. I've also noticed it doesn't happen with each activity. I will have to do some more testing to see how widespread it is.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

A "pop" or a 'thump'? If the former, that doesn't sound good and I would investigate maybe using the other DC trigger on the AVR. If a thump, that is just the sub amp. Annoying as hell but won't hurt anything. If too annoying, as I suggested earlier, just leave it plugged in directly. When in stand-by, the power consumption is minimal at worst.

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post #286 of 298 Old 06-19-2012, 02:31 PM
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Just wanted to give a little update on my H15 which has been running continiously for 3 years now (only a few times with it being powered off during longer vacations).

The power conditioner portion of the H15 was the most valuable as we had very poor power coming into the house (was originally 60amp, has since been swapped out to 200amp service), it helped level out power delivery (as much as it could) which I dont see fluctuate often since we upgraded the service.

I cant believe the deals we were able to get back in 09 on the units, but Id be hard pressed not to get another if I was to start all over again.


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post #287 of 298 Old 06-20-2012, 06:50 AM
 
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I agree completely. Was talking to my sister the other nite about her needing protection when 2 days later, lightening struck near and power was compromised...we go looking for one this weekend...wink.gif
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post #288 of 298 Old 09-05-2012, 09:31 AM
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Well, it doesn't look like I will be able to eliminate this thump noise, but I do not want to revert back to using the AVR's AC outlet.

(Going off-topic now)

I was looking at new subwoofers and it appears that most (if not all) on the market today have an auto on/off feature. I'm not sure how well this works but I assume it has been available long enough to have matured.

My Klipsch SW-8 (http://www.klipsch.com/sw-8) while having only 8" cones and 65W of power, has served me well since 1999. I'm sure I do not even come close to utilizing its full potential, either. So when considering a new sub, my needs are on the lower-end. What I do like about the SW-8 is its cabinet. I noticed the new subs typically have two things going on: 1) bulky feet or 2) plain, plastic looking box. The SW-8 has a nice faux wood pattern and no ugly feet. I also like that is has front and back facing cones.

I stumbled across this sub:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882780097

It says it has a down-firing driver. I'm not sure if this is a good thing or a bad thing in my environment. I do live in a condo, but there is no one above or below me, only adjacent.

While the above is currently listed at 199.00, I have seen it going as low as 149.00. Not too shabby. Less than $200 is just the market I am in. I am not partial to Klipsch, by the way. It just happens to be the brand I found.

Can anyone recommend something else in this category?
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post #289 of 298 Old 09-05-2012, 01:06 PM
 
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$200 is a gyp...So many for so much less and better than 55 watts. I asure you, your 8" 60 watt sub has easily been used to its full potential as 8" really isn't anything more than a computer speaker subwoofer. Look at PARTS EXPRESS for high quality, low priced, good looking subs, in my opinion. I have bought there so many different times. OR you could buy a new driver AND amp and retro the sub you have now since you like the cabinet so well. Very easy and basically all it is, is a few screws, a couple of wires and VOILA! New sub that will trounce anything you have been looking at I'd wager. And all for less than you'll find on the internet. cool.gif
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post #290 of 298 Old 09-05-2012, 01:34 PM
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The thought of replacing the electronics in the sub had crossed my mind but dunno if that would be cost effective. Might be the same to go with something entirely new.

I will check out parts express! Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

$200 is a gyp...So many for so much less and better than 55 watts. I asure you, your 8" 60 watt sub has easily been used to its full potential as 8" really isn't anything more than a computer speaker subwoofer. Look at PARTS EXPRESS for high quality, low priced, good looking subs, in my opinion. I have bought there so many different times. OR you could buy a new driver AND amp and retro the sub you have now since you like the cabinet so well. Very easy and basically all it is, is a few screws, a couple of wires and VOILA! New sub that will trounce anything you have been looking at I'd wager. And all for less than you'll find on the internet. cool.gif
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post #291 of 298 Old 09-05-2012, 03:46 PM
 
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Edited: Nevermind...
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post #292 of 298 Old 11-08-2012, 09:08 AM
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Do I need the AVR function in my UPS?

Hi guys - just purchased and installed the APC J25B. So far I really like it. I have my VW95 projector, Yamaha RX-V1800 and PS3 connected to it. This draws about 500w leaving me with plenty of room (max 850w) and enough run-time (about 5 minutes) to just shutdown the equipment gracefully.

I am wondering, however, if I should instead go for the J35B model for its Automatic Voltage Regulation feature, which the J25B does not have. I am wondering if I would benefit from this AVR technology so I wanted to explain my situation and get feedback on whether it really would benefit me or not and be worth the cost of the upgrade (I paid a little under $200 for the J25B, and the J35B upgrade would cost me about another $150 more - so not a ton of money but at the same time nearly 2x the cost of the J25B).

The electricity feeding my room seems very stable to me. When the equipment is all off the J25B reports sometimes that it is receiving 121v which it does trim to 120v, and other times it reports 119v. When all the equipment is on, it does seem to report that the voltage is 118v in, and 118v out instead of 119-121v. And it stays solidly at 118v in (does not fluctuate). In fact I have never seen it go lower than 118v.

The J35B has the AVR functionality. If I was using that, would it boost this 118v to 120v? I cannot get a straight answer from APC on this... Or does that boost only come if the voltage drops quite a bit below that? Assuming it would boost 118v to 120v, is there any benefit to this for my projector? For instance, would the extra 2v make the projector bulb a bit brighter or make its electronics last longer? Assuming my voltage is never any lower than 118v (except in an outage of course) and that the J25B trims above 120v back to 120v, is there any reasonable benefit to boosting this 118v to 120v? I'm happy with the J25B and would rather not go through the trouble of swapping it out unless there was good reason to do so (in which case I'd be happy to).

Would be great to get your thoughts on this. Thanks!
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post #293 of 298 Old 11-08-2012, 04:37 PM
 
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AVR only keeps voltage with-in a certain range, more than just a solid 120. 118 there is nothing wrong with. As a FYI, my AVR kicks on when the theater is running strong and the AC or space heater(s) kick on. pretty cool since no dimming of lights occurs to warn of lower voltage.cool.gif
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post #294 of 298 Old 04-27-2013, 02:22 PM
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Does the H15BLK SAT/Antenna coax surge protection function work with the DirecTV SWM-8 Multisiwtch (which only requires a single coax cable to the STB) ? Thanks
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post #295 of 298 Old 06-24-2013, 03:32 PM
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Ive had this for awhile and was wondering. How do you know if surge protection is still OK after a year or two? This unit does not have a protection working light some some do to let you know that the MOV's or other components have been used up.

One problem with some surge protection is they dont alert you to the fact the MOV's are no longer working properly, some do.

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post #296 of 298 Old 02-19-2014, 10:45 AM
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Anyone know whether APC has corrected the signal loss problem with the CATV splitter? Also, is there anything in the manual that indicates that if you do not connect the CATV/Modem to the H15, it voids protection? I'm more concerned about my HDTV, receiver, blu-ray than I am my cable box and modem.
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post #297 of 298 Old 04-20-2014, 12:12 PM
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There hasn't been a definite answer here on "do I plug my HD receiver into the digital or analog outlet bank?" I had the same question and found the following on the APC forums:


Quote:

"it looks like this receiver supports (as many high quality receivers do) multiple connectivity/source types, both digital and non-digital. I would say that if you are primarily using analog ins/outs w/ the receiver, then use the analog outlets. If digital, then the digital outlets. If you have an even mix, I would still recommend using the digital outlets."

 

 

http://forums.apc.com/thread/5146?start=0&tstart=0

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post #298 of 298 Old 04-29-2014, 11:12 PM
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I am debating between the APC J10BLK Power Conditioner/UPS and the J35B Power Conditioner/UPS. Their function would be basically to protect my Epson protector. I like the J35B model better than the J10BLK because the J35B is slimmer and more modern looking BUT the J10BLK says it gives protection for up to 3200 joules while the J35B, pretty much like all APC UPS for PC protects for up to "only" 435 joules. Both UPS have AVR.

Why much difference in joules between one and the other? Both are offered as audio/video solutions.
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