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post #91 of 240 Old 07-11-2009, 05:56 PM
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Nice insulation......not.
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post #92 of 240 Old 07-11-2009, 05:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, despite the above post, and the challenges of working in this basement, and pulling wire by myself, I did make some decent progress. I got the wires for the rear surrounds, side surrounds, 2 side subs, projo power, projo signal, and cable, all run back to where the equipment will be.

Rear Surrounds


Left Side Surround & 2 Potential Subs


Bundle of Wires Needing to be Cleaned Up


So, my newest challenge is the front wall wires. I planned on bringing them down a gap in the joists, bring them all down the wall together, and then bring them across to where needed. This is when I discovered that the front wall is only 1.5" thick. Some strips are 2x4s used on the flat side, some are 2x2s. This is what all the drywall is nailed to.

This means 2 things:
1 - I'm not going to have depth in the wall for in-wall speakers.

2 - I couldn't just drop the wires down the wall.


So, I had to find where each strip was and cut some work room around it. Then I am going to have to take a chunk out of each strip to fit all the wires down the wall. The other thing I have to figure out is how to mount the in-wall speakers. I suppose I either need to make boxes for them to sit in, or build full columns for them to sit in. I like the column idea, but not sure yet.

Either way, I think I'm going to have to get the projector mounted and setup, and the screen temporarily up, before I pick permanent positions for the speakers.

Picture again of the joy I discovered today:

The above is merely one person's opinion and is probably worth as much as you paid for it.
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post #93 of 240 Old 07-11-2009, 06:07 PM
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Ouch!

How cold does it get in your neck of the woods? I'm in the frigid north, so when I see uninsulated basement walls - as I had in my basement also - I go nuts and resolve to rip everything down to start with a dry, warm base. I won;t be done for a while as a result, but the sucker WILL BE dry and warm, if nothing else!!

So let it be written! So let it be done!

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post #94 of 240 Old 07-12-2009, 04:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanesian View Post

Ouch!

How cold does it get in your neck of the woods? I'm in the frigid north, so when I see uninsulated basement walls - as I had in my basement also - I go nuts and resolve to rip everything down to start with a dry, warm base. I won;t be done for a while as a result, but the sucker WILL BE dry and warm, if nothing else!!

I don't remember it being that bad this winter. We had a couple snows and it hung around 30 for a couple months, but nothing like MN. That wall is just a testament to the randomness of this guy's decisions. You can see in the picture of the side speaker (and sub) wires that there is insulation top to bottom in that wall. The front wall insulation stops about 1/3 to 1/2 way from the top.

I think the new floor will warm it up down there a bunch. I'm not concerned enough to tear down that wall and build a new front wall. I think I have convinced myself to do some mini-columns for the L/R speakers. I'm not sure yet what to do on the center channel. I guess I could connect the columns with a mini-stage. Just to clarify, I'm thinking these columns and stage would be just a few inches deep off the wall...nothing substantial.

The above is merely one person's opinion and is probably worth as much as you paid for it.
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post #95 of 240 Old 07-12-2009, 07:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, despite *expletive*-head's attempts at making this HT project more difficult than need be, I did manage to make some progress this weekend. I started on some of the dry-wall patching, got all of the wires run through the ceiling, and I am about ready to do some texturing around where the new ceiling platform for the projo mount is.

Here's the LCR wires and another sub wire running to the front wall. There are no vertical studs, so I can go from here all the way to the left, as far as needs to go for each channel. It actually makes this a little bit easier, but I still have to cut a channel out of the horizontal studs, to get my wires down to the level I need them.



Here's the projo ceiling platform. I cut away some drywall for where the power inlet will mount. I still need to add the corners to the projo platform to make it looks pretty. Then I will add that "trash bag" texture to the platform and around where the power inlet will mount. This should hide any amateur drywalling skills possessed by yours truly.



I don't know if anyone is counting, but that is 3 sub cables I have run so far. I don't plan on having 3 subs but, since they aren't purchased yet, and I don't even have them picked out yet, I figured I would give myself some options. Basically, I could put one in the original location (by the corner of the L couch), I could put one at the front left of the room, and now one at the front right of the room. We will just have to see how things go and what gets purchased. I have no plans for sound treatments at this point, so I'm not sure how picky I am going to get.

Currently, the Ministry of Finance has a hold on the funds needed for speaker purchases. Just as well, I have plenty of little things to work on, oh and I need to build some columns, in addition to my daughter's birthday next weekend and a visit from family. So, I may get a little done this week, but I expect little progress for the next week or so.

The above is merely one person's opinion and is probably worth as much as you paid for it.
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post #96 of 240 Old 07-12-2009, 10:11 PM
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looking like you are moving along nicely despite the challenges. That projector box is gonna be vented somehow? They run hot don't they?
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post #97 of 240 Old 07-13-2009, 05:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by IPT View Post

looking like you are moving along nicely despite the challenges. That projector box is gonna be vented somehow? They run hot don't they?

I'm somewhat happy with the progress. This is my first major project that has included demo and what not. It's been real fun to take on something this size and be able to keep it moving along. I can't wait to see it finished. I hope it looks even somewhat like my plan pictures.

The box is for the projector to mount under not in. I knew that was going to be a little confusing. I built it to drop the projector down just enough for the lens to clear the bottom of the soffit. That box is actually on the backside of the soffit.

The above is merely one person's opinion and is probably worth as much as you paid for it.
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post #98 of 240 Old 07-13-2009, 10:47 AM - Thread Starter
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The Ministry of Finance has approved funding for the speakers. It was difficult, but the Ministry is motivated to have her husband come out of the basement for more than just meals and work. Going to be about a week for processing and shipping, but late next week I should have more cardboard boxes for Hanesian to get excited about.

What I decided on:
2 x SpeakerCraft Aim Wide One (Sides)
2 x Speakercraft Aim MDU (Rears)
1 x SpeakerCraft AIM LCR 1 (Center)
1 x SpeakerCraft AIM Cinema One (L/R)

The above is merely one person's opinion and is probably worth as much as you paid for it.
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post #99 of 240 Old 07-13-2009, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpdeuce View Post

The Ministry of Finance has approved funding for the speakers. It was difficult, but the Ministry is motivated to have her husband come out of the basement for more than just meals and work. Going to be about a week for processing and shipping, but late next week I should have more cardboard boxes for Hanesian to get excited about.

What I decided on:
2 x SpeakerCraft Aim Wide One (Sides)
2 x Speakercraft Aim MDU (Rears)
1 x SpeakerCraft AIM LCR 1 (Center)
1 x SpeakerCraft AIM Cinema One (L/R)

I highly recommend reading this article regarding in-wall speakers:
http://www.audioholics.com/tweaks/do...-wall-speakers

I would definitely look into building enclosures.

Not sure what your budget is for a dedicated subwoofer, but I would look at Internet Direct brands such as Elemental Designs, HSU, Epik, Rythmik, SVS, etc. You will get the most bang for your buck from one of these brands. I have an Elemental Designs (eD) sub and love it. An eD A2-300 costs $350 shipped to your door, but you may want to order it soon as there is a 1.5 month wait for them to build it due to demand.
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post #100 of 240 Old 07-13-2009, 06:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ack_bk View Post

I highly recommend reading this article regarding in-wall speakers:
http://www.audioholics.com/tweaks/do...-wall-speakers

Great article. Thanks for the link.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ack_bk View Post

I would definitely look into building enclosures.

That's actually one of the reasons why I chose Speakercraft. As you can see by meegwell's install, they are already enclosed. That was a huge selling point for me, as I knew I needed/wanted to go in-wall and I did not want the extra work of building enclosures in the wall.

See his build for pics of the backs of the Speakercrafts.

EDIT - It appears that only the WIDEs are enclosed. The other speakers I bought are not. Looks like I will need to do enclosures after all. Maybe. Also, I had to replace the WIDEs because I am installing them in the wall, not the soffit ceiling. The ones I replaced them with are not enclosed either. This could get interesting. I'm going to make a call to Speakercraft tomorrow and see what they recommend.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ack_bk View Post

Not sure what your budget is for a dedicated subwoofer, but I would look at Internet Direct brands such as Elemental Designs, HSU, Epik, Rythmik, SVS, etc. You will get the most bang for your buck from one of these brands. I have an Elemental Designs (eD) sub and love it. An eD A2-300 costs $350 shipped to your door, but you may want to order it soon as there is a 1.5 month wait for them to build it due to demand.

I don't know yet either. Since I knew this decision was going to be delayed, I haven't done much research. I have peeked at the HSU subs, but I think they may be out of my range. I have looked at SVS stuff and I know those are out of my range. That eD sub you are talking about sounds in my range though. This, and a 7.1 receiver, will be my big purchases after the room is done. It will be nice when the whole system comes together, but I'm fine waiting a bit for it to make sense.

Thanks for some direction in this department though, once I am ready to really make a choice.

The above is merely one person's opinion and is probably worth as much as you paid for it.
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post #101 of 240 Old 07-13-2009, 06:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpdeuce View Post

What I decided on:
2 x SpeakerCraft Aim Wide One (Sides)
2 x Speakercraft Aim MDU (Rears)
1 x SpeakerCraft AIM LCR 1 (Center)
1 x SpeakerCraft AIM Cinema One (L/R)

Just now dawned on me that I intended on using the Wides in the wall, not the ceiling. I started looking at dimensions and they are 6+ inches deep. Not going to work in the wall. I swapped them out for AIM Cinema Dipole One speakers. They are designed to do the same thing as the Wides, except they are designed to be installed in the wall. That should help things out a little bit.

The above is merely one person's opinion and is probably worth as much as you paid for it.
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post #102 of 240 Old 07-14-2009, 11:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ack_bk View Post

I would definitely look into building enclosures.

So, if I use this concept for building the enclosures, what material would you guys recommend lining the "enclosures" with? I'd prefer not to burn my house down.

The above is merely one person's opinion and is probably worth as much as you paid for it.
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post #103 of 240 Old 07-14-2009, 01:07 PM
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From the article it looks like polyester fill used in pillows and comforters and can be found at any fabric store or you can order from PartsExpress.

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post #104 of 240 Old 07-14-2009, 01:13 PM
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post #105 of 240 Old 07-14-2009, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

All the 7.1 receivers I've seen output the LFE sub-woofer signal via either an RCA jack or some now are starting with the balanced outputs. I can't think of a reason to run speaker wire to the sub-woofer for your particular setup.

Now you don't want to use just any RCA cable you want a shielded copper core cable. A lot of guys use a high quality RG6 Coax cable and put on their own cable ends. Reason for the shielding is to minimize the pick up of any interference which will of course be amplified by the sub. Keep it a good distance from any electrical wiring.

jpdeuce - great build, this should turn out to be a nice hangout. I have one sub but ran 2 extra hookups so I could move the sub around for the best sound and also in case I ever want to add an extra sub. I ran the RG6 cable to each location along with power and used the connectors that BIG suggested. I can tell you the shielding on the RG6 works because some of my RG6 is real close (within inches) to the power wires and I have had no interference. The only time you would use regular speaker wire for a sub is if you were using a sub that does not have it's own power on board. I learned this here on this fabulous forum because ran both RG6 and 14 gauge cl2 wire to each sub location. I didn't know any better at the time. Keep up the good work!!!

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post #106 of 240 Old 07-14-2009, 06:37 PM - Thread Starter
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I have one sub but ran 2 extra hookups so I could move the sub around for the best sound and also in case I ever want to add an extra sub.

How did you split the signal? Did you just split it like a regular cable splitter and then tip the ends with RCA? What about power? did you add extra power to power multiple subs?

Quote:
Originally Posted by HT1 View Post

I ran the RG6 cable to each location along with power and used the connectors that BIG suggested. I can tell you the shielding on the RG6 works because some of my RG6 is real close (within inches) to the power wires and I have had no interference.

That's good to know.

The above is merely one person's opinion and is probably worth as much as you paid for it.
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post #107 of 240 Old 07-14-2009, 06:39 PM - Thread Starter
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From the article it looks like polyester fill used in pillows and comforters and can be found at any fabric store or you can order from PartsExpress.

Alright cool. Well then I can use that approach in the article and just put a top and bottom on the space behind the speakers and then fill it with that stuff to make it sound better.

The above is merely one person's opinion and is probably worth as much as you paid for it.
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post #108 of 240 Old 07-15-2009, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by jpdeuce View Post

How did you split the signal? Did you just split it like a regular cable splitter and then tip the ends with RCA? What about power? did you add extra power to power multiple subs?

I ran 3 individual rg6 cables from my equipment closet to each sub location. Then I put a regular 110 outlet at each sub location for power.

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post #109 of 240 Old 07-15-2009, 06:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I ran 3 individual rg6 cables from my equipment closet to each sub location. Then I put a regular 110 outlet at each sub location for power.

Sorry, I meant how did you split the LFE signal from the receiver to each rg6 line you ran? Did you run one line out from the receiver, split it with a normal cable splitter, then connect the rg6 lines running out the subs? I also meant, what about the power from the receiver pushing the subs? Did you bump up the power since it was potentially pushing 3 subs?

The above is merely one person's opinion and is probably worth as much as you paid for it.
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post #110 of 240 Old 07-15-2009, 01:01 PM
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I know you haven't talked about the sub floor in awhile - but I am thinking of doing the same for my floor.
Question? - Is there a reason or issue why you didn't use a Powder Actuated device to secure the OSB over the platon?
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post #111 of 240 Old 07-15-2009, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpdeuce View Post

Sorry, I meant how did you split the LFE signal from the receiver to each rg6 line you ran? Did you run one line out from the receiver, split it with a normal cable splitter, then connect the rg6 lines running out the subs? I also meant, what about the power from the receiver pushing the subs? Did you bump up the power since it was potentially pushing 3 subs?

I only have 1 sub at the moment so the RG6 is connected directly to the receiver. I didn't think about connecting 3 at the same time......I guess a normal cable splitter would work. As for power, my RT10D Klipsch has it's own power supply so I just plug it into the wall. If I add subs they will also have their own power supply.

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post #112 of 240 Old 07-15-2009, 02:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ifoundsasquatch View Post

I know you haven't talked about the sub floor in awhile - but I am thinking of doing the same for my floor.
Question? - Is there a reason or issue why you didn't use a Powder Actuated device to secure the OSB over the platon?

Mainly a personal preference. I wasn't sure how far a .22 nail gun type thing would go. Those OSB panels are tough to get through. It took some work for the drill with the wood bit to get through them. Then there was the gap with the Platon and then the hard cement. I just wasn't sure how deep it would get. I really needed a nice flat top surface to glue down the thin cork tiles.

Even though it was a pain, I think I would do it the same way. I actually have a couple spots where I feel some "squishiness" that I will need to put in a couple more screws. I'm going to wait until right before I do the final floor though.

Another thing that played into it is I didn't have one of those guns to try it out, or to use for the project.

The above is merely one person's opinion and is probably worth as much as you paid for it.
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post #113 of 240 Old 07-16-2009, 08:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Making some real progress now. I've been completely focused on getting the projector hung, because that determines and kicks off the rest of this. I won't know where the columns need to go without having the screen up and can't put the screen up till the projector is hung. Can't finish wires, can't do anything.

So, been focused on my mysterious box. I got it done finally. Took a while because it needed a few coats of mud, then texture, and I had to wait for it to dry. I think it came out pretty good though:



Here's a pic of the box and the cutout for the power inlet:


Here we are with the projector finally hung. I tried to cut it REALLY close on the measurements, which ended up biting me a little bit. But, my dad is here and helped me figure out a solution. I need to drop it down another 1/4 inch. I am VERY happy with how the vision turned out in reality though.



First screenshot. This is plug and play, no settings messed with, no screen, just put up the projector and put a picture on the wall. The is a standard definition DVD being upconverted through a Samsung bluray player. I am ecstatic right now.


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post #114 of 240 Old 07-16-2009, 09:02 PM
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JP, What is the biggest image you can project from that location?
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post #115 of 240 Old 07-17-2009, 10:38 AM - Thread Starter
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JP, What is the biggest image you can project from that location?

The lens is right at about 12.5 feet. The max screen size is about 120".

I wish I could do a screen that big down there, but it's just not going to happen. Especially now, with the columns I've got to build and the decision to go in-wall with all the speakers. If this was a dedicated HT, then maybe I would take a little different path. Right now, I'm terribly happy with how things are going and glad my Dad is here to help me get the framing for the columns built.

Comparison of my screen's frame and the max screen size:

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post #116 of 240 Old 07-17-2009, 10:47 AM - Thread Starter
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In the last post, I said how I cut it really close on measuring the drop for the projo. I cut it too close in fact. So, I needed to come up with a way to drop the projector a touch more, without it looking too bad. I decided to put a "shim" between the projo mount and the new box. My dad helped me come up with the plan and I think it came out pretty good. It got painted and wrapped in electrical tape, and honestly I think it looks like it's supposed to be there. The "shim" is actually three, 1/8 inch thick, circles cut out of some wood type material I had laying around. We "laminated" them, sanded the ends, wrapped the whole thing in electrical tape and painted black.



In this close up, you can kind of see the lines between each 3 pieces, underneath the tape:


Here's a side shot to see the new alignment...I really like how the lens is just barely under that soffit:


Now it's time to start planning out the columns and getting ready for the speaker delivery next week.

The above is merely one person's opinion and is probably worth as much as you paid for it.
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post #117 of 240 Old 07-17-2009, 10:52 AM
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post #118 of 240 Old 07-17-2009, 10:58 AM
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Just in case your didn't already think of this, I am not familiar with that projector but even if it has horizontal lens shift it would be a could idea to make sure that the screen is dead centered relative to the projector. One quick way to check is to put any horizontal shift in the zero position and measure the height of a 16:9 image. The left and right should be exactly the same size if the projector is aimed properly. Then you know where the screen should go and where you should build your columns for the speakers.

If it ends up not being where you want it and you use lens shift well then NEVER-MIND.
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post #119 of 240 Old 07-18-2009, 05:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Just in case your didn't already think of this, I am not familiar with that projector but even if it has horizontal lens shift it would be a could idea to make sure that the screen is dead centered relative to the projector. One quick way to check is to put any horizontal shift in the zero position and measure the height of a 16:9 image. The left and right should be exactly the same size if the projector is aimed properly. Then you know where the screen should go and where you should build your columns for the speakers.

I figured out how to reset all H and V adjustments. The screen is centered with no H adjustment, but I will have to adjust up or down a little for the height.

The above is merely one person's opinion and is probably worth as much as you paid for it.
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post #120 of 240 Old 07-19-2009, 07:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Despite the aforementioned birthday party this weekend, my dad and I were able to get a little more time in the basement. After some planning, adjusting, and measuring, I think I figured out where I wanted the screen. With that location in hand, I measured out for a 105" screen (what I suspect I will be upgrading to shortly), and marked the wall for my columns. I got everything lined out and then went to town with the hole saw. This was a big job for the hole saw, but the circular saw just kicks up too much crap into the air.

The outcome is below. Now I just need to frame out the columns, and get some drywall up there. I should have speakers sometime this week...but I'm not sure I will be ready to put them in right away.

EDIT - Note, I also cut out the horizontal strips where the columns will be going too.




The above is merely one person's opinion and is probably worth as much as you paid for it.
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