Home theater living room revamp looking for opinions and advice - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 17 Old 09-14-2010, 11:26 PM - Thread Starter
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I currently have a 65" dlp and Bose lifestyles 28 for my home theater setup. My viewing distance now is 9' 6". I've decided to go big. My living room is 19' deep and 13' wide. It's closed on three sides. I plan to build a false wall about two feet off the closed end wall to hide an ugly old fireplace and give me somewhere to mount the screen. I plan to run a 110" AT screen with my center and front L&R speakers behind the screen. With a viewing distance of 10'. My component stack will go to the right of the screen in a cabinet that is recessed into the new wall. Here's a list of what I plan to use for the system
Projector. Epson 8100 purchased
Receiver. Onkyo tx sr608 purchased
Screen. DIY 110" center stage xd purchased
Speakers. Wharfedale zaldek 5 channel set purchased
Sub. Avalanche 18 LLT purchased not built yet
Sources HTPC with blu ray/hdmi purchased
Fios hd dvr purchased
Lg super blu blu ray hd DVD player purchased


The room will be repainted, black on the screen wall, dark grey on the side walls, and silver on the ceiling and back wall. All of it will be flat paint. I have a skylight in the back of the room that will get a cellular blackout shade. There is a 10 foot window on one of the side walls that will get gap less wood blinds and probably some sort of curtain to cut a little more light and hide the white blinds and trim.
Let me know what you think. Any ideas or opinions are appreciated. The adjoining room is the dining room and I'll be putting a blind on that window as well to cut light. I think that sums up my plan so far.
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post #2 of 17 Old 09-17-2010, 12:43 AM - Thread Starter
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I've decided to replace my 2 velodyne 10's with a single 18" ported in about 10 cu ft net tuned to 15 hz.

So nobody has an opinion on my plan?
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post #3 of 17 Old 09-17-2010, 09:03 AM
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I am no expert, and I am in the very beginning stages of my modest build, so I can't really give you much advice except about your projector. The Epson 8100 is also on my list, but you should know that the stock is currently being liquidated to make room for a new model (Epson 8350?). You can get a really good deal if you can find one ($1150 or lower), but stock is running low. You'll have to weigh finding a good deal on last year's model (and having to move quickly) with buying this years newest model coming out in a few weeks (untested/reviewed, higher price -- probably $1599, but no one knows, etc).

Also you will probably get better ideas and responses to your post if you put up pictures and a floorplan (by hand or google sketchup) of your setup. It is much easy for people to give input with visuals
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post #4 of 17 Old 09-17-2010, 11:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbeergeek View Post

I am no expert, and I am in the very beginning stages of my modest build, so I can't really give you much advice except about your projector. The Epson 8100 is also on my list, but you should know that the stock is currently being liquidated to make room for a new model (Epson 8350?). You can get a really good deal if you can find one ($1150 or lower), but stock is running low. You'll have to weigh finding a good deal on last year's model (and having to move quickly) with buying this years newest model coming out in a few weeks (untested/reviewed, higher price -- probably $1599, but no one knows, etc).

Also you will probably get better ideas and responses to your post if you put up pictures and a floorplan (by hand or google sketchup) of your setup. It is much easy for people to give input with visuals

First off thanks for the response. I have a friend that works at best buy and he ordered one of the last 8100's they had in stock. I'm picking it up next week for $1100.

I'll get some pics and some drawings of what I have planned. I was wandering around ikea today looking at cabinets. I think I found some that will work for part of the built in I have planned.
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post #5 of 17 Old 09-24-2010, 12:05 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm currently looking at a cabinet from ikea that is 24"x24"x88" to go on either side of my screen.
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post #6 of 17 Old 09-28-2010, 10:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I've purchased a Sampson s convert, behringer ep2500, behringer feedback destroyer pro, aa avalanche 18" sub, and an epson 8100. I'm rethinking my sub placement. I'm thinking about using grill material under the screen and placing the sub directly under the screen.
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post #7 of 17 Old 10-05-2010, 04:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Here are some pics of my current setup. Also some pics of the wall I want to work off of(the one with the fireplace).

Between my car audio build, home theater build, and moving room mates in and out, my house is a disaster. So disregard the mess.
LL
LL
LL
LL
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post #8 of 17 Old 10-05-2010, 06:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is what I have planned.






Everything will be painted black on the screen wall. I'm also thinking that the first 2-3 feet of the ceiling will be black or dark grey to cut down on reflections.
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post #9 of 17 Old 10-09-2010, 12:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Here's a floorplan sketch.

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post #10 of 17 Old 10-25-2010, 05:30 PM - Thread Starter
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I exchanged the epson 8100 for the 8350. I fired it up in my spare bedroom on a textured wall and it looks fantastic. I also picked up some of the materials for my dig screen frame.
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post #11 of 17 Old 10-25-2010, 05:54 PM
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Looks good but remember that the lights from the gear/rack can be a bit distracting. Solid doors with an IR repeater might be the way to go. The area behind the screen with open sided racks give you plenty of ventilation. I'd build in the racks into the screen wall structure/supports.
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post #12 of 17 Old 10-27-2010, 11:43 AM
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I completely agree with mayhem13, because I learned the hard way.

I took out a wall, then rebuilt it with my screen in the wall for a rear projector placement, then carefully measured space on each side of the screen for in-wall racks, drawers, etc. much like it looks like you've done. Everything was symmetrical and accessible.

About half-way through the construction I did a test run - and didn't like it. I had red lights, green lights, blue lights, and counters changing numbers from the equipment. As small as these lights and counters were, in a darkened room their presence was elevated. I continued with it for a couple weeks trying to make up my mind if I disliked it enough to do something different.

In the end, I decided to put the speakers behind wall openings alongside each side of the screen that were framed out with speaker grill fabric and I began the process of figuring out how to retro-build an in-wall rack at the rear of the room. It was a job, but I'm much happier. Now when the lights go down, my attention is directed to only one thing - the movie.

You may not have the option of moving the equipment to the rear of the room as I did, but that doesn't mean the problem of lights can't be solved in a different manner. Mayhem13's suggestion of solid doors and a repeater is a valid one.

The obvious sometimes escapes me. Don't let it escape you!
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post #13 of 17 Old 10-27-2010, 03:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryGM View Post

I completely agree with mayhem13, because I learned the hard way.

I took out a wall, then rebuilt it with my screen in the wall for a rear projector placement, then carefully measured space on each side of the screen for in-wall racks, drawers, etc. much like it looks like you've done. Everything was symmetrical and accessible.

About half-way through the construction I did a test run - and didn't like it. I had red lights, green lights, blue lights, and counters changing numbers from the equipment. As small as these lights and counters were, in a darkened room their presence was elevated. I continued with it for a couple weeks trying to make up my mind if I disliked it enough to do something different.

In the end, I decided to put the speakers behind wall openings alongside each side of the screen that were framed out with speaker grill fabric and I began the process of figuring out how to retro-build an in-wall rack at the rear of the room. It was a job, but I'm much happier. Now when the lights go down, my attention is directed to only one thing - the movie.

You may not have the option of moving the equipment to the rear of the room as I did, but that doesn't mean the problem of lights can't be solved in a different manner. Mayhem13's suggestion of solid doors and a repeater is a valid one.

The obvious sometimes escapes me. Don't let it escape you!

Ok. Here's what I have planned to make sure that doesn't happen. The components will all go in an all wood cabinet with a solid wood door. I'm going to cut an intake vent in the bottom of the cabinet for air to come in. It will be covered by some sort of air filter. I'm not sure what kind yet. In the top of the rear panel, will be some big computer fans to pull air up and out of the cabinet. The inside of the cabinet will all be painted flat black. If I still have light bleed from around the door. I'll use some thin adhesive backed foam around the back side of the door to block light.
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post #14 of 17 Old 08-13-2014, 11:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Damn it's been a while! I've made a lot of progress in the last 4 years.


Here I'm trying out 7.1 and trying to decide how high to mount my surround speakers.




Dedicated 20 amp breaker with one outlet in the attic for the projector and the other behind the component stack. HDMI run through and down the wall.








Rear surrounds installed, eventually I'll paint then to match the wall.




Component stack organized and rear cut out for cooling.




Left side surround




Right side surround

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post #15 of 17 Old 08-13-2014, 11:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Got my avalanche 18 out of the attic




EP2500 and FDP




Box I found on craigslist, 8.5 cu ft tuned to 20hz with a 6" port. Turned out to be forum member pdxrealtor. He gave me a demo while I was there. WOW! His setup gives me something to shoot for.





One of the feet broke, I'll see if I can find a replacement.




Couldn't find a speakon connector in town so I'm running the wires through the port for now.



New couches



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post #16 of 17 Old 08-13-2014, 11:56 PM - Thread Starter
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It's hard to get a pic of it with a cell phone.



The screen is hanging from the ceiling via cables.




Speakers tilted and toed in behind the screen, are on a table made of 2x4's that's wrapped in velvet to hide the hearth. The back of the screen is covered with black grill cloth to cut down on light going through the screen.




Moved the sub into the corner, put the amp and BFD behind the screen, ran audyssey, and calibrated the projector with the WOW bluray. Then I enjoyed Jurassic Park on bluray. Man this is so much more impressive.


I have a calibrated UMIK-1 coming and I'm thinking about a nearfield sub between the couch and love seat. I ended up with a blown SI HT18 that would go in a sealed downfiring box of around 4 cu ft net. It would be run on one channel of the ep2500 and BFD. I'd recone it as a D2 and wire it to 2 ohms. That would give me around 800 watts. To test this out, I have a 2.5 cu ft ported box tuned to 32hz with 2 sundown sa-10's in it(currently for sale). I can rewire them to 4 ohm and run them next to the couch to see how it sounds. If it makes a noticable difference, I'll order the recone from SI. And probably a 4 cu ft flatpack from diysoundgroup. That'll give me a second 18" sub for around $300.

Last edited by hondakilla98; 08-14-2014 at 04:17 AM.
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post #17 of 17 Old 08-15-2014, 04:22 PM - Thread Starter
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UMIK-1 showed up. Hopefully I can get some measurments later today.
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