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post #181 of 213 Old 12-18-2012, 11:11 AM
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PVC is much easier to work with..I have all copper in my house. Its fun and challenging to work with, but what a PITA sweating on those pipes...especially in tights spots.
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post #182 of 213 Old 12-18-2012, 11:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah I can imagine. I just don't like the glue smell and having to wait for it to dry before turning water back on. PEX is the best of all. No glue and no extended times without water.
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post #183 of 213 Old 12-18-2012, 11:20 AM
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No maximum slope per se, but the the fall of the fixture drain cannot exceed 1 pipe diameter. eg on a 1-1/2" pipe you could slope 6 feet at 1/4 per foot (6 * .25 = 1.5, the diameter of the pipe)

A more obscure requirement is that the vent connection cannot be below the weir of the trap.

In the end, if you don't stick to the 1/4" and 6 foot rule you will probably violate one regulation or the other.

Hope this helps.

Tim
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post #184 of 213 Old 12-18-2012, 11:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Tim. Great info!
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post #185 of 213 Old 01-22-2013, 10:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Getting closer and closer to the beginning of drywall phase. The wine cellar vapor barrier is complete. It was quite a pain having to wrap most of it from the inside but still WAY cheaper than the quotes I received to have it spray foamed. I think I have it sealed up nicely and shouldn't have any problems. Also moved on with the fire stops. I tackled the walls with the larger gaps first since they are the trickiest. The other walls I will be able to just stuff in unfaced fiber glass insulation.


A few pictures of the wine cellar's vapor barrier:
From the inside:


And here is the fire blocking for the walls with the large gaps. I took a "2 in one" fire stop approach. The first one being the top plate or blocks near the top of the framed wall and the second one being a piece of drywall connecting the top plate/blocks to the foundation. Then I filled in all the gaps with fire rated foam
The drywall pieces in place before foam:


The fire foam in place



I also hit the store and began collecting drywall tools/supplies. I picked up a drywall screw gun and a big bucket of screws. I am currently looking for a decent drywall lift. Anyone now of someplace online to get a good cheap one?? I also tested to see if I can get a 10 footer down the stairs and into the basement and thankfully I can which will make dry walling the theater ceiling a lot easier and with zero butt joints.

Up next is to finish all fire blocking and insulate all ceilings and outside walls. Then it will be time to place the first drywall order.
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post #186 of 213 Old 01-22-2013, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barlav View Post

I am currently looking for a decent drywall lift. Anyone now of someplace online to get a good cheap one??

Folks have generally had good experience with this lift from Harbor Freight Tools: http://www.harborfreight.com/drywall-panel-hoist-69377.html

Most of your local weekly circulars will contain a coupon for 20% off any one item which will bring your cost down to $160 plus tax.

You could also check Craigslist, but from my experience they are either contractor's lifts near the end of their usable life or a homeowner who prices a nice one at near retail pricing levels for their used equipment. Hard to find that diamond in the rough on this item off Craigslist.

Good luck!
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post #187 of 213 Old 01-23-2013, 11:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

Folks have generally had good experience with this lift from Harbor Freight Tools: http://www.harborfreight.com/drywall-panel-hoist-69377.html

Most of your local weekly circulars will contain a coupon for 20% off any one item which will bring your cost down to $160 plus tax.

You could also check Craigslist, but from my experience they are either contractor's lifts near the end of their usable life or a homeowner who prices a nice one at near retail pricing levels for their used equipment. Hard to find that diamond in the rough on this item off Craigslist.

Good luck!

Thanks! I also found this one at amazon for under $150 with free shipping:Pentagon Tools Pro Series Heavy Duty Drywall Lift and Panel Hoist 11 Foot Professional Quality! and it seems to have decent reviews. The one from Harbor Freight is "Haul-Master" brand and it seems to have the same specs as the one from amazon. Does anyone know of a noticeable quality difference between Pentagon tools vs Haul-Master?

When I am done with it I am going to sell it on Craigslist and it will be one of those diamonds in the rough since I will have only used it to drywall a 1000 sq ft space. wink.gif
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post #188 of 213 Old 01-23-2013, 11:52 AM
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I think that Haul Master is a Harbor Freight brand.  Most of these Chinese lifts are all the same quality.  You should have no issue getting through a single job.  I have heard of people buying these lifts, using them and then selling them on Craig's list for near what they paid for them.  It is well worth the investment.

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post #189 of 213 Old 01-23-2013, 12:36 PM
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For my own theater build I made the decision to just buy some Yuengling and pizza for my "drywall lifts" named Howard and David. biggrin.gif
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post #190 of 213 Old 01-28-2013, 10:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Fire stops are officially complete! Moved onto insulation and have completed the theater area ceiling. I don't envy folks that have to work with this stuff everyday. It isn't pleasant to say the least. The walls will be a lot easier than the ceilings at least. All my recessed lights are rated for insulation contact but my 4" cans still require a socket extension to use the 50W bulbs that I want so I installed those extensions before insulating over them. I need to go buy some more insulation to complete the ceilings in the rest of the basement before moving onto the exterior walls but before I do that I am going to add the wine cellar sub floor and install the wine cellar window as well.

Some pics from this weekend:
These are the socket extenders I needed for my 4" cans so I can use 50W bulbs and still cover with insulation:


Here is the bulb before the extender:


And here is the bulb after the extender:


The insulated ceiling: I did a sound test before and after by blasting music in the room right above this ceiling. There was a pretty big difference with the insulation in place. It's not sound proof by any means but it did cut down a lot on how much of it bleeds through and that is good enough for me!


Starting of insulating the soffit:



I also ordered a drywall lift. I ended up going with one from amazon that was $150 shipped. Hoping to get that this week sometime. And here is the new drywall gun:
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post #191 of 213 Old 01-28-2013, 11:31 AM
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Nice build so far...subbed !

-Dave

MCSE 2003
Windows Media Center specialist

Avid gamer and home theater junkie..
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post #192 of 213 Old 02-05-2013, 10:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidinCT View Post

Nice build so far...subbed !

Thanks Dave!
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post #193 of 213 Old 02-05-2013, 10:34 AM - Thread Starter
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I decided to take a break from working with insulation this weekend and did a few things that were more rewarding. I installed the wine cellar window and also added the wine cellar sub floor. Drywall lift also came last week. It didn't have any manual with it but it was easy enough to figure out how to assemble and use. It was also missing the wheel handle so I contacted the company and, while they were unable to send out another handle, they gave me 20% off the price so I am happy with the final price of $120 for the drywall lift. I was able to screw in a 1/2" lag bolt into the threaded handle fitting and that works just fine as a makeshift handle.

The window install:
First I made two window frames using 3/4"/3/4" quarter round. Here are some pictures of this with one side nailed down and the other dry fitted:




I nailed in the first window frame and then used a full tube of caulk on the inside of it before putting the window in place. It created a nice air tight seal. Then I used another tube of caulk around the outside of the other side of the window before installing and nailing the second window frame in place. It should be sealed up pretty well. Here is the window in place for good:
From the outside: (The railing is going to be removed at some point and relocated to the other side of the stairwell)


And from the inside:


Next was the sub floor for the wine cellar. First stage was pressure treated 2X4 and 1 1/2" XPS with Tyvek tape to create the vapor barrier for the floor. And then I cut a piece of 3/4" plywood to fit and screwed it in to the 2X4's to complete the subfloor

The 2X4's, XPS and tyvek tape to complete the vapor barrier


The plywood installed,screwed in place and ready for hardwood floor:


Thought I took a picture of the drywall lift but I guess I didn't. I will make sure to get one up showing the makeshift handle solution. Up next is getting back to insulating. I will finish up the ceilings in the gym and bathroom before moving on to the walls which should be much more pleasant to work with than the ceilings.
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post #194 of 213 Old 02-05-2013, 12:58 PM
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I insulated my ceiling with fiberglass and I was initially disappointed. There was a difference but it wasn't great. Then, installing the drywall made a huge difference, so you should be really happy when that is done. It looks like you have pine blocking, I used resilient channel but I doubt the difference is significant between the two. Either way they should somewhat isolate sounds bridged across the joists. Now all the noise I hear is through the hollow core basement door.

I did my ceiling myself using two plastic shelving units instead of a drywall hoist. I had to go 12 feet total but I bought 8 foot sheets and the butt joints took a ton of time and effort. If you can get sheets down to run the span yes do that. I wouldn't have been able to do 12 foot sheets with my horrible method.
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post #195 of 213 Old 02-05-2013, 06:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, I planned the ceiling in the theater area so that there will be no butt joints. It is just under 10 feet across so I should be able to do the entire ceiling with 6 10X4 sheets having only factory joints. I am still going to have a few butt joints in the ceiling in the gym area though that I'm not looking forward to.


Here is the new drywall lift with the "bolt handle":
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post #196 of 213 Old 02-05-2013, 07:56 PM
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Your build is looking great!! Looking forward to seeing more progress.
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post #197 of 213 Old 02-05-2013, 07:58 PM
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I bought that same drywall lift this week. Bought it on friday, received it on tuesday, hung all rock by thursday and sold it on craigslist by friday smile.gif

It works really well.
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post #198 of 213 Old 02-06-2013, 10:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the comments guys. Hey ScAndal, on your drywall lift were various parts loose? I noticed the arm ties on the base were loose as was the nut on the slide bar where the lock is. I can tighten down all of them but I'm thinking that maybe they are supposed to be loose like this? I don't have the manual so I can't tell for sure.

Here are the parts I'm talking about:
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post #199 of 213 Old 02-06-2013, 11:37 AM
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The leg bolts are supposed to be loose. The nut isn't actually loose, but there is space for legs to be able to be moved and collapsed easily. You are fine there.

The handle is loose because you need to extend it all the way out and insert the lock plug. This plug won't let the mechanism close up again. After doing that, you tighten the nut with the wrenches included.

Should be good to go after that. Mine worked great.
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post #200 of 213 Old 02-06-2013, 12:22 PM
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Looking good barlav!

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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post #201 of 213 Old 11-27-2013, 07:41 AM
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Ok barlav...time for an update! What's the latest? Hope you and your family enjoy Thanksgiving!

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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post #202 of 213 Old 11-27-2013, 08:30 AM
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post #203 of 213 Old 11-27-2013, 09:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the bump Ben! I am still here. After a crazy year I am buckling down on the basement. I just had all of the drywall delivered a week ago. It was quite a job getting it all down there but it is done. Mostly 10 footers so hoping the hanging job will go pretty smoothly. Updates to follow soon!
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post #204 of 213 Old 11-29-2013, 08:35 AM
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post #205 of 213 Old 12-01-2013, 05:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Fair enough.

Here is the drywall delivery:


And here it is after being hauled to the basement:


First piece hung on ceiling today:


Result of first use of rotozip. Not bad? Watched enough videos of it being done to get a "feel" for it.
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post #206 of 213 Old 12-02-2013, 08:09 AM
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Have you made any more progress on the wine cellar?

-




Is it solipsistic in here, or is it just me?
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post #207 of 213 Old 12-02-2013, 01:22 PM
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post #208 of 213 Old 03-14-2014, 12:06 PM
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Ok Barlav...is all of that drywall still on the basement floor?? smile.gif

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289590
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post #209 of 213 Old 03-18-2014, 10:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Ben!
Thanks for stopping by. I really need to find time to get myself on here and stay up to date. Yes the drywall is still sitting on the floor...but not all of it! I would say I am over 1/2 done with the ceilings and soffits. It has been kind of a pain but it is moving forward, albeit sloooooowly.

btw, I was just in Albany over the weekend.
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post #210 of 213 Old 06-12-2014, 02:04 PM
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[QUOTE=barlav;19687882]The Prep:


Radon Mitigation: My house was built what passive radon mitigation by code which is just a pipe from the foundation up through the roof. I did a test and it came out at 2 (pCi/L). The EPA recommended action guideline at the time was 4.0. While 2 isn't that bad I thought I could do better. I decided to buy a radon fan and install it in the attic crawl space. It was only about $100 and about an hour of my time. The builder had already roughed in an outlet up there to plug the fan in also so it was just a matter of cutting the pipe and adding the fan inline. I tested the radon again once the fan was running and this time the test came back < .5 (pCi/L) which is comparable to outside air. Peace of mind for $100 = priceless!! This is a picture of the manometer gauge that shows there is pressure which indicates the fan is running. Of course I can just put my ear to the pipe and hear the fan as well. I didn't ever get up into the attic to take a picture of the fan installed but if anyone is dying to see it let me know and I will make the trip up there and snap a few photos.



I have a Passive Radon 'system'/set up in my house now. I am in the process of finishing my basement.

It sounds like you put the fan in yourself? Is it a fan that runs 100% of the time? Is it basically just cutting PVC pipe & inserting the fan unit, and plugging it in?

Any recollection of what fan you used?
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