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Davy D's Family / Media Room

19K views 94 replies 16 participants last post by  davekeith 
#1 ·
First step in any theater build:

Asbestos abatement!




Just revised my thread to eliminate small pictures and fix a bunch of broken links.
 
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#2 ·
Got a PM about the floor, so I figured I'd share its construction. Very happy with the results:


I did an obscene amount of research on the floor, and here's what I came up with:

This was a bare concrete floor in the basement. I put down Platon (same as Delta FL) and was concerned with the audible clicking some people have mentioned (particularly on the Mike Holmes message boards). So . . . first thing I put down was landscape fabric, then the Platon (taped the seams with Tyvek tape to make a good moisture barrier), then laid the t&g on top. I used Tapcons to fasten the plywood to the concrete. I actually bought a powder actuated fastener, but the concrete in my floor is so hard, the nails wouldn't go all the way in even with the most powerful charges. (some people worry that the fasteners penetrate the moisture barrier - my room is very dry, so I didn't bother, but you can put caulking on the fasteners to seal the holes). The floor feels incredible solid and doesn't make a bit off noise. And, it is very warm.

I'll post a picture of the Platon in case you've not seen it.
 
#3 ·
Insulation for the ceiling was supposed to arrive today. Checked Lowes.com and the order now says expected on Sunday.

Framed out the rack cabinet wall yesterday and placed and wired my side sconces today.
 
#4 ·
Welcome to the madness! Just a thought: if you want feedback on your thread, you'll have much more luck if you imbed the photos full size directly in your thread. Those postage stamp sized things are too small to see, and most folks won't bother clicking to enlarge them, especially with the other 17 gazillion threads calling out to be read!


Good luck!
 
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#5 ·
I was beginning to wonder how this thread had over 1,000 views and no replies.

I should have figured that people with 100"+ screens like big images! Thanks hanesian


Here are the materials I used for the subfloor: Platon and t&g plywood



1" Extruded polystyrene insulation on exterior walls



2x4 framing



fireplace wall



Extended ductwork down the wall



Rafter opening to laundry room



Covered gaps with plywood . . .



then rigid insulation



All closed off



Delivery from the big orange truck



Forklift



Nice Rack!
 
#6 ·
Hey -what do you know?! There's an actual BUILD going on here?! Thanks for making the photos viewable!


The first reaction I have is you might want to check out Landshark's build if you haven't already done so, as he has a similarly laid out room with a fireplace on on side. I think he did a great job, but even if the design isn't exactly what you might envision it might give you some ideas.
 
#7 ·
The air vents in my room ended in the ceiling. Since I am trying to isolate sound from the upstairs, I didn't want any openings in the ceiling I could avoid. I also had my HVAC guy come out and he said you want the heating vents on the cold outside wall blowing into the room and you want your return on the inside wall to get a nice circular flow. Problem was, my ductwork measured 12" x 3 1/2" and would not connect with any standard sizes. So . . . I found a sheet metal place that would make me a custom reducer for $20 based on my Sketchup. Then I could use the standard 10" x 3 1/4" stuff they sell anywhere.







 
#9 ·






Bread knife is the way to go.
 
#10 ·
Yesterday I realized that I needed to order an extender for the remote sensor for the Wii. That 3' wire is not going to cut it. Ordered a 30' one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product


Left one joist bay open to run that and then will finish up the Safe & Sound.

Still need to get and put up the wall insulation which I am dreading. Also, it's hard to find 3 1/2" unfaced batts. Will have to check with my local non-big box building supply store during the week.


Framed out an access door to the side / back of my rack.



 
#12 ·
The Platon is 1/4" and the 3/4" tongue & groove OSB is technically 23/32." I also added a layer of landscape fabric under the platon to guard against a clicking sound of the plastic tapping against the concrete floor. So all-in I'd say 1" of total height added.


I used 3/16" x 2 1/4" tapcons, so they're embedded about 1 1/4".

Incidentally, the finished floor is so solid, I could have gone without the landscape fabric, but that was cheap, easy insurance.


You could check Delta FL and Dri-cor panels, but I'd suspect they're all in the same range. The Dri-Cor are way more expensive but probably an easier install.


Good luck.


T&G OSB:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053


Platon:
http://www.systemplaton.com/flooring.html
 
#13 ·
Received my Wii Sensor 30' Extender cord today and ran it across the room.

Here are all of the connections I'll have behind my rack. Shout if you think I'm missing something! Plan to get wall insulation tomorrow and maybe start drywalling this weekend.


Wii Sensor Extender



Coax



Cat 5e to Fios Router



Cat 5e to IR Extender on screen wall



Speaker wire, sub cable, and HDMI



Power
 
#14 ·
Any suggestions on controlling the projector?

It will be located pretty much above the viewers' heads. Will the remote IR bounce off of the screen wall? Should I run a piece of Cat 5e up there while I still have the walls open? Looks like the models I'm looking at have a trigger input, but that's just for on/off right?

I imagine once the thing is on, focused, zoomed you just leave it alone?? Could add a 2nd IR repeater?

Help?!
 
#15 ·
The shower you take after putting up fiber glass insulation for several hours is very refreshing!

My local builder supply place had unfaced batts stored in the dirtiest warehouse. Had to wash my jacket and vacuum my car after bringing them home. Fine inside the plastic though.

I highly recommend batts over rolls. So much easier and faster.

I used up the remainder of the safe & sound on the door wall which is an interior wall.


Batts



Window wall



Cabinet



Short wall



Door wall
 
#17 · (Edited)
Most of the IR repeaters I've seen come with a relatively short cord. Seems like they're meant to just get a signal into a cabinet and not necessarily across a room. Some of them, like the Microsmith Hot Link Pro say that you can extend the range with Cat 5. I need about a 30' run, so I just ran Cat 5e.
 
#20 ·
Proof that the lipstick technique works



 
#23 ·
Getting close to done with finishing the drywall. Takes me forever.

Here's the inside of the equipment cabinet.


 
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