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post #1 of 53 Old 01-16-2011, 09:28 AM - Thread Starter
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First step in any theater build:
Asbestos abatement!



Just revised my thread to eliminate small pictures and fix a bunch of broken links.
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post #2 of 53 Old 01-22-2011, 12:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Got a PM about the floor, so I figured I'd share its construction. Very happy with the results:

I did an obscene amount of research on the floor, and here's what I came up with:
This was a bare concrete floor in the basement. I put down Platon (same as Delta FL) and was concerned with the audible clicking some people have mentioned (particularly on the Mike Holmes message boards). So . . . first thing I put down was landscape fabric, then the Platon (taped the seams with Tyvek tape to make a good moisture barrier), then laid the t&g on top. I used Tapcons to fasten the plywood to the concrete. I actually bought a powder actuated fastener, but the concrete in my floor is so hard, the nails wouldn't go all the way in even with the most powerful charges. (some people worry that the fasteners penetrate the moisture barrier - my room is very dry, so I didn't bother, but you can put caulking on the fasteners to seal the holes). The floor feels incredible solid and doesn't make a bit off noise. And, it is very warm.
I'll post a picture of the Platon in case you've not seen it.
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post #3 of 53 Old 01-25-2011, 06:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Insulation for the ceiling was supposed to arrive today. Checked Lowes.com and the order now says expected on Sunday.
Framed out the rack cabinet wall yesterday and placed and wired my side sconces today.
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post #4 of 53 Old 01-26-2011, 06:17 AM
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Welcome to the madness! Just a thought: if you want feedback on your thread, you'll have much more luck if you imbed the photos full size directly in your thread. Those postage stamp sized things are too small to see, and most folks won't bother clicking to enlarge them, especially with the other 17 gazillion threads calling out to be read!

Good luck!

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post #5 of 53 Old 01-26-2011, 07:18 AM - Thread Starter
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I was beginning to wonder how this thread had over 1,000 views and no replies.
I should have figured that people with 100"+ screens like big images! Thanks hanesian

Here are the materials I used for the subfloor: Platon and t&g plywood


1" Extruded polystyrene insulation on exterior walls


2x4 framing


fireplace wall


Extended ductwork down the wall


Rafter opening to laundry room


Covered gaps with plywood . . .


then rigid insulation


All closed off


Delivery from the big orange truck


Forklift


Nice Rack!
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post #6 of 53 Old 01-26-2011, 07:42 AM
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Hey -what do you know?! There's an actual BUILD going on here?! Thanks for making the photos viewable!

The first reaction I have is you might want to check out Landshark's build if you haven't already done so, as he has a similarly laid out room with a fireplace on on side. I think he did a great job, but even if the design isn't exactly what you might envision it might give you some ideas.

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post #7 of 53 Old 01-27-2011, 05:54 PM - Thread Starter
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The air vents in my room ended in the ceiling. Since I am trying to isolate sound from the upstairs, I didn't want any openings in the ceiling I could avoid. I also had my HVAC guy come out and he said you want the heating vents on the cold outside wall blowing into the room and you want your return on the inside wall to get a nice circular flow. Problem was, my ductwork measured 12" x 3 1/2" and would not connect with any standard sizes. So . . . I found a sheet metal place that would make me a custom reducer for $20 based on my Sketchup. Then I could use the standard 10" x 3 1/4" stuff they sell anywhere.







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post #8 of 53 Old 01-28-2011, 06:16 PM - Thread Starter
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post #9 of 53 Old 01-29-2011, 12:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Bread knife is the way to go.
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post #10 of 53 Old 01-30-2011, 06:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Yesterday I realized that I needed to order an extender for the remote sensor for the Wii. That 3' wire is not going to cut it. Ordered a 30' one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product

Left one joist bay open to run that and then will finish up the Safe & Sound.
Still need to get and put up the wall insulation which I am dreading. Also, it's hard to find 3 1/2" unfaced batts. Will have to check with my local non-big box building supply store during the week.

Framed out an access door to the side / back of my rack.



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post #11 of 53 Old 01-31-2011, 05:45 PM
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Dave,

I'm considering the platon with plywood for my floor. Did you use 3/4" plywood? Exactly how high did this raise the floor (my ceiling height is only 6'11").

How far did you drill down for the tapcons?

Thanks,

Mark
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post #12 of 53 Old 01-31-2011, 06:24 PM - Thread Starter
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The Platon is 1/4" and the 3/4" tongue & groove OSB is technically 23/32." I also added a layer of landscape fabric under the platon to guard against a clicking sound of the plastic tapping against the concrete floor. So all-in I'd say 1" of total height added.

I used 3/16" x 2 1/4" tapcons, so they're embedded about 1 1/4".
Incidentally, the finished floor is so solid, I could have gone without the landscape fabric, but that was cheap, easy insurance.

You could check Delta FL and Dri-cor panels, but I'd suspect they're all in the same range. The Dri-Cor are way more expensive but probably an easier install.

Good luck.

T&G OSB:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

Platon:
http://www.systemplaton.com/flooring.html
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post #13 of 53 Old 02-03-2011, 05:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Received my Wii Sensor 30' Extender cord today and ran it across the room.
Here are all of the connections I'll have behind my rack. Shout if you think I'm missing something! Plan to get wall insulation tomorrow and maybe start drywalling this weekend.

Wii Sensor Extender


Coax


Cat 5e to Fios Router


Cat 5e to IR Extender on screen wall


Speaker wire, sub cable, and HDMI


Power
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post #14 of 53 Old 02-03-2011, 06:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Any suggestions on controlling the projector?
It will be located pretty much above the viewers' heads. Will the remote IR bounce off of the screen wall? Should I run a piece of Cat 5e up there while I still have the walls open? Looks like the models I'm looking at have a trigger input, but that's just for on/off right?
I imagine once the thing is on, focused, zoomed you just leave it alone?? Could add a 2nd IR repeater?
Help?!
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post #15 of 53 Old 02-04-2011, 01:16 PM - Thread Starter
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The shower you take after putting up fiber glass insulation for several hours is very refreshing!
My local builder supply place had unfaced batts stored in the dirtiest warehouse. Had to wash my jacket and vacuum my car after bringing them home. Fine inside the plastic though.
I highly recommend batts over rolls. So much easier and faster.
I used up the remainder of the safe & sound on the door wall which is an interior wall.

Batts


Window wall


Cabinet


Short wall


Door wall
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post #16 of 53 Old 02-05-2011, 08:18 AM
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WHy did you run Cat5 to the IR extender? New to this, and trying to understand the Cat5 req's....

Also, thanks to you, I remembered to run my Coax in!!!
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post #17 of 53 Old 02-05-2011, 10:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Most of the IR repeaters I've seen come with a relatively short cord. Seems like they're meant to just get a signal into a cabinet and not necessarily across a room. Some of them, like the Microsmith Hot Link Pro say that you can extend the range with Cat 5. I need about a 30' run, so I just ran Cat 5e.

Last edited by davekeith; 07-18-2014 at 10:48 AM.
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post #18 of 53 Old 02-09-2011, 06:17 PM - Thread Starter
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post #19 of 53 Old 02-13-2011, 08:01 AM - Thread Starter
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post #20 of 53 Old 02-14-2011, 06:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Proof that the lipstick technique works



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post #21 of 53 Old 02-20-2011, 05:59 PM - Thread Starter
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post #22 of 53 Old 03-11-2011, 08:56 PM
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you doing a great job, keep it up! If i had your know how, I could have saved some cash on the project i'm doing right now... =-/
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post #23 of 53 Old 04-03-2011, 02:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Getting close to done with finishing the drywall. Takes me forever.
Here's the inside of the equipment cabinet.


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post #24 of 53 Old 04-23-2011, 09:15 AM - Thread Starter
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post #25 of 53 Old 05-06-2011, 05:10 PM - Thread Starter
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post #26 of 53 Old 05-07-2011, 11:18 AM
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nice work. I am winding down on my build (the media section at least). It's a ton of work, but nice when it starts to come together.
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post #27 of 53 Old 05-07-2011, 07:07 PM
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very cool pictures... looks like a labor of love!

Thanks to AVS for helping me with my first home theater system!

Panasonic ST30, Klipsch RB-61 II, RC-42 II, Denon AVR-1611, dual Lava 10" subwoofers

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post #28 of 53 Old 05-08-2011, 02:43 PM
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Looking pretty good. What type of speakers are those and are they going to be covered with anything like an AT screen

Great build in a smaller area!
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post #29 of 53 Old 09-01-2011, 01:17 PM - Thread Starter
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The front in-wall speakers are from Monoprice. I'll post the entire equipment list to date. The screen just fits between them. I think it was about 102" wide and 110" diag.

Here's the list:

1. Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 8700 UB
2. Carada 110 Diagonal Precision Series Projection Screen - 1.78:1 Projection Screen Material Classic Cinema White
3. Onkyo TXNR509 home theater receiver
4. Monoprice 8 Inches Kevlar 3-Way High Power In-Wall Speaker (Pair) - 100W Nominal, 200W Max
5. Monoprice 5-1/4 Inches Center Channel Micro-Flanged In-Wall Speaker - 8 Ohm
6. Polk Audio RTiA3 Cherry Pair Bookshelf/Stand Mount Speakers
7. Polk Audio PSW110 (CH) 10" 100-watt Powered Subwoofer
8. Microsmith Hot Link XL
9. Sony Blu-ray Player
10. Motorola Cable Box - Verizon Fios
11. Raxxess PD-800VM Rack Mount Power Distribution
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post #30 of 53 Old 09-01-2011, 01:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Frame assembly


Brackets mounted


Snapping on screen


Screen assembly finished


Image with lights on


Blu-ray Deathly Hallows image
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