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post #1 of 26 Old 01-26-2011, 04:28 AM - Thread Starter
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First off, I've gotten a pretty good handle on pouring and curing etex, that's not the nature of my problem. My problem was a 4 legged fur ball that decided to investigate the new bar top last night as it was curing and I was sleeping. Quite pissed this morning when I went to check on it. Clumps of hair, foot prints, etc.... Not to mention the trail of etex on the tile once the stupid cat got down. What are my options? I've cut away the major paw print areas, but there are still bad spots. Do I need to let it cure more before I sand it down? My wife is hosting a party this weekend and I thought I had this all locked up and taken care of. Thoughts, tips? The spots I cut away, I cut into at an angle to leave a bowl shape, hoping that the filler pour erases all traces of the feline intrusion.
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post #2 of 26 Old 01-26-2011, 06:42 AM
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Sand off the rough spots and hair, even if it's still lumpy. Repour and it will self level. Don't panic. Take the cat for a long ride in the car.

Randy


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post #3 of 26 Old 01-26-2011, 06:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Hair sanded and bad spots cut out, here comes the pour. Thanks heynow, I'm a bit more calm now but feel bad for the cat so she stays in the house for now; considering her paws are giant goo balls right now
LL


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post #4 of 26 Old 01-27-2011, 05:44 AM
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Looking forward to see some updated pics of the 2nd pour. You should be fine with a repour. I did just my bar rail over again a couple days later and it covered all the sanding spots no problem.


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post #5 of 26 Old 01-27-2011, 06:05 AM - Thread Starter
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It actually went pretty well, it was tougher to do a thin pour though, but I think it cleared up the problem. Took 3 qts to skim coat it. If you look close enough you can see the areas I cutout but all the sanded areas are cleared up.
LL
LL


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post #6 of 26 Old 01-27-2011, 10:42 AM
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Looks much better. I have some questionable spots on my bar top that I want to redo but the etex cant be any deeper (if that makes sense) due to lack of room. What did you do to sand it and what did you do to cut out the bad spots? I have a spot that I got way too close to with the propane torch and it sort of scorched the surface leaving a nasty bubble and lumpy surface spot. Any advice??


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post #7 of 26 Old 01-27-2011, 11:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Steve, luckily I caught mine while it was still tacky, only about 6 hrs cure time so I was able to cut in with a sharp razor blade and sort of peel out the really bad spots. The rest I sanded down with 220grit first to remove the uneven spots and hair. If you have ever seen "orange peel" on a car, it looks similar when sanded, you'll see the high and low spots. Once I finished with the sandpaper, I took #0000 steel wool and knocked down the sanding grooves all in the direction of the wood grain. Cleaned everything up with acetone and did the pour. I had one end with a similar problem to yours and all I did was create a tape wall to hold the etex up. Unfortunately if you want uniformity over the entire surface you have to do a full pour, otherwise it will be spotty/wavy where you tried to fill in.


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post #8 of 26 Old 01-27-2011, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R1Jester View Post

Steve, luckily I caught mine while it was still tacky, only about 6 hrs cure time so I was able to cut in with a sharp razor blade and sort of peel out the really bad spots. The rest I sanded down with 220grit first to remove the uneven spots and hair. If you have ever seen "orange peel" on a car, it looks similar when sanded, you'll see the high and low spots. Once I finished with the sandpaper, I took #0000 steel wool and knocked down the sanding grooves all in the direction of the wood grain. Cleaned everything up with acetone and did the pour. I had one end with a similar problem to yours and all I did was create a tape wall to hold the etex up. Unfortunately if you want uniformity over the entire surface you have to do a full pour, otherwise it will be spotty/wavy where you tried to fill in.

This is what I was afraid to hear. Mine was poured quite a while back (maybe 8 months or so) and it is quite hard Unfortunately my original pour was poured up to the trim on my beer gutter area (if you will)so I cant go any "deeper" with the etex.......man I am in some trouble here.


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post #9 of 26 Old 01-27-2011, 04:23 PM
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Any pictures of the full bar? Looks really nice.


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post #10 of 26 Old 01-27-2011, 05:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Steve, post some pictures of what you have, collectively we might be able to come up with something.

Hockey here you go, still needs clear on the rest of the bar
LL


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post #11 of 26 Old 01-27-2011, 05:53 PM
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That is a beautiful bar. Do you have a build thread any where or are you keeping it a secret? Lol.

I'd love to see some construction pics if you have any. Any more details.


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post #12 of 26 Old 01-27-2011, 06:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Hockey, I have construction pics, will load them in my build thread, jesters lounge.....eventually. The basics:

2x6 frame, 3/4" oak front face, 1x3 oak trim pieces, 4x6" oak foot rail, chicago rail from Rockler, oak hardwood flooring for bartop underneath 3 coats of envirotex!


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post #13 of 26 Old 01-27-2011, 06:41 PM
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I will have to get some pictures but it may take a few days as my bar has a million things piled on it since I am drywalling in the other side of the basement and had to have some place to store the collection of crap. I will get some pics posted soon. Your bar is beautiful by the way.


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post #14 of 26 Old 01-28-2011, 07:11 AM
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Sweet looking bar. We need construction pics....c'mon!

Randy


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post #15 of 26 Old 01-28-2011, 08:48 AM - Thread Starter
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OK! I'll download/upload the high quality stuff from to photbucket tonight and post on my build log! (link below) Really trying to clean up the bar for the party tomorrow night. Here's a fun fact, the party my wife is hosting may be featured in an article, so a photographer/reporter is supposedly coming to the house!

Pictures are up in my build log, critique or praise away! Happy to answer any questions you may have as well.


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post #16 of 26 Old 04-09-2013, 06:45 AM
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Hi, sorry to dredge up an old thread, but since you had a similar question about a second pour, was wondering what you would advise...

I poured Envirotex on a painted laminate counter last night, and evidently I had not sanded well enough beforehand, because now there are little bumps in a few spots where paint must have been uneven. I am considering doing a second pour once this one cures, but I wonder if the bumps would still show through, or if I could maybe take a straight razor to the bumps before the pour? Or is sandingthe only option? There are few enough that it seems like I could attack each one with the razor fairly easily, but I wasn't sure if the nature of the product wouldn't lend itself to this idea. I don't actually have a sander, so am trying to avoid that if possible.
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post #17 of 26 Old 04-09-2013, 09:44 AM - Thread Starter
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No worries. Roughly how thick was your first coat? You could knock down the large bumps with a razor if needed, but just using some sand paper by hand should help to smooth them out a little. Afer you sand though, wipe the suface with acetone first, to clean it off. Dont worry about the scuff marks, second coat will make it vanish. I can tell you its not going to be like a sheet of glass though, not unless the main surface was perfect to begin with. The second coat will help to even stuff out if its allowed to "pool". Meaning you are covering it and letting it self level. Do you have pictures of what you are trying to do? That could really help out.


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post #18 of 26 Old 04-09-2013, 11:48 AM
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Hm, I don't know how to gauge how thick the first coat was... that is how much of a novice I am... I just poured it out and spread it around a bit. I had done this project on a test piece of formica with no problems, so I was surprised to see these bumps appear with the final product. Below are some pictures... it is kind of hard to see because of the shine, but if you look at the close up, you can probably see what I mean. I called the company, and they said I would be okay to sand it a bit and repour tonight... I hope that's right? I started on some sanding at lunch so I would have less to do when I get home. Would love your opinion.

Close up:



Zoomed out a ways:



Big picture:
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post #19 of 26 Old 04-09-2013, 01:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the pictures, helps tell the story better. Are the bumps dirt/debris? Or are they bubbles? Envirotex is going to self level so basically what it did was to cover and drop over the edge. Another coat will essentially cover what you already did and leave those bumps if you can't remove them first. It works well for covering imperfections if it is restrained on all 4 sides. Think about as if you were pouring into a box allowing it to creep up the sides. You have a good protective coat on there but had some sort of remnant debris on the counter when you first poured or some bubbles that didn't pop when curing.


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post #20 of 26 Old 04-09-2013, 01:55 PM
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The bumps are from the paint, I believe. I am almost positive they aren't bubbles, because they first showed up after the pour, but they weren't popping like the rest of the bubbles with the blow torch/straw method. I even tried to go in with a toothpick while it was still wet, and scratch out the bumps, but to no avail. Incidentally, the toothpick worked great for picking out stray cat hairs. (I love the boy, but his hair ends up everywhere, even though he was banned from the room for the last few days, and I lint rolled furiously before going in for the pour). Anyhow, the paint was sponged on, so it was a bit uneven to begin with... before adding Envirotex, I sanded it a little by hand, but I am guessing not enough. Sigh. I will see what some hand sanding can do to the Envirotex... so you think I need to flatten those bumps completely before repour?
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post #21 of 26 Old 04-09-2013, 02:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, otherwise you will just be adding more cover to them. You can cut and sand as much as you need. Just clean off the surface with some acetone when you are done( careful not to get acetone on the painted surface)


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post #22 of 26 Old 04-15-2013, 09:46 AM
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Hey, it worked like a charm! The second coat really helped... and completely hid the scratches from the sanding. I didn't feel confident posting for sure until the total cure time had passed. I didn't want to jinx myself! :P Thank you for your advice! The only weird thing that remains, is sometimes I notice little dents appear when I put objects on the counter... but then they disappear in a day or so. It made me kind of nervous at first... hopefully that effect will pass?


Close up of former problem area... now fixed:

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post #23 of 26 Old 04-15-2013, 11:26 AM
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A finish that dents is a finish that is not cured.. No idea how this product works but if it is not a 2 part product with hardener, it will take months to really cure.. Oil base Poly finish for hardwood, "ready to use in 48 hours", BUT really takes at least 90 days to cure and that is just a couple mill thick.. this stuff I would think will take even longer to truly "CURE". Good luck it looks beautiful!

Doug

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post #24 of 26 Old 04-15-2013, 01:14 PM
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It is a two part product... I let it cure for the 72 hours indicated on the box, but you may be right; it may just take longer than anticipated for a full cure. I think I am going to take it easy on it for a few weeks. Thank you for the kind words! I was transforming an ugly old formica counter into something a little nicer (on a small budget of about $100). It was a whitish pink fake wood formica laminate before... pretty bad!
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post #25 of 26 Old 05-08-2013, 01:23 PM
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PLEASE SOMEONE HELP!! I used envirotex on my formica countertop, like AI2000. However my concern is that I have a spot that created a reservoir, if you will, about the size of a dinner plate, only oblong, not circular. There is definitely some coverage with the product, it's just not as level as the rest. All the other spots turned out quite nice, except this one. And if I could hide it with a toaster I would. But naturally, it's dead smack in the middle of the counter. It's fully cured already, and I attempted to pour some more in that spot, only to panic when it didn't look as though it was leveling. So I wiped it off with paint thinner. My question is.....do I have to pour the entire counter again, is there a way to just full in this reservoir? If I pour the whole thing again will it still sag in that area?? Any help is much appreciated!
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post #26 of 26 Old 05-10-2013, 03:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Well the envirotex follows the contour of the base, so was there a problem with the counter to begin with? How thick was your first coat? Unfortunately you can't "spot" fill, but you will have to pour another skim coat that's got a little more in the oblong area. Etex is self leveling so just make sure the coat is thick enough.


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