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post #1 of 41 Old 04-07-2011, 09:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Background

So, my wife and I purchased a house in 2007. Two kids later, we realize we need more space. As of now, we are in the planning phase of finishing our basement. This basement will be mostly DIY. There is no time frame, but hopefully it will be completed this year. It also might be another month before I even get started since I have to do some re-grading around the house; there are two hairline cracks that are allowing a little moisture in. From what I read, I just need to better drain away from this area and use some epoxy on the cracks.

The goal of the basement is the following:

more open space for the kids (ages 2 and 6 mos.) to play
more storage for kids stuff
bathroom
kitchenette
and (the reason for this post), a non-dedicated 5.1 theater system with a 55 - 60 plasma.

There are a few obstacles that limit (at least in my mind) our design possibilities:

First, there are a total of 4 lally columns. Three run parallel to the stairs (about four feet out). The forth is across from the proposed kitchenette. I do not like the look of a column in the middle of a basement, so my plan is to incorporate them in the interior walls.
Second, the location of the water heater and furnace. This section will be unfinished. I'm a little worried about the noise factor from this area, being so close to the proposed TV area.
Third, the sewer drain access in the bottom right corner of the picture (by the walkout). To my dismay, the only way I can think to hide this is within a closet, which takes up valuable TV viewing real estate.

Here is the only design we've been able to come up with:



Another thing to note is that the bathroom and kitchenette are where they are in the design since that is where the plumbing has been roughed in.

The Theater
While my wife was been browsing kitchenette cabinets, bathroom tile, and furniture, I have been thinking about different designs for the TV wall. Keep in mind that my overall goal is a nice clean install (no wires, no protruding/floor-standing speakers, etc.).

I was originally thinking in-wall speakers all around, but many members here have me worried about the sound quality. I keep going back and forth between some Paradigm Millenia 10 Hybrids for the LCR, or building in-wall cubby holes for boxed LCR speakers. The Hybrids are actually a cross between in- and on-wall, which may help the quality issue. The back two speakers will either be Monoprice in-wall or in-ceiling speakers. I'm not sure if it'd be better to have in-walls directly behind and to the side of a couch, or the in-ceilings.

I'm also going back and forth between in-wall cabinetry/cubby holes for the AV equipment, or a DIY rack to the side of the stairs (where the small bookcase is in the design above). The AV equipment will only include (at least at this point) a PS3, receiver, and cable tuner. If I do the rack, I have to look into how I control the equipment while sitting on the couch (including the PS3 bluetooth) which I use to watch blu-ray. I know this is a newbie issue, but I haven't got around to fully researching it just yet.

That's all for now. I'll be back later with some pictures of the basement in its current state. PLEASE comment, criticize, suggest and advise!
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post #2 of 41 Old 04-08-2011, 04:34 PM
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What makes a "theater" in a private home is very subjective and all opinions are valid for those that have them and offer them.

We had our first theater area in our living room. Our desire was to achieve a visual experience that would similar to being at a commercial theater.

We tried a 60in TV - a good one - 1080p and etc - we learned that size does matter and that a television couldn't give us that "at the movies" feel that we wanted. So, we kept the "little" television for watching tv stuff but when we want a genuine theater "WOW" we dim the lights and fire up the projector.

It's amazing the difference in experience between a 60in diagonal image and a 100in diagonal image when sitting about 13 to 15 feet from the screen.

I typed all the above to suggest that you consider finding a way for a larger screen if you want to call it a "theater" area. You will never be disappointed with a big screen but too small can be a real disappointment. Mitsubishi makes a nice 82in tv and I've seen one and, depending on the room, I think that size might be able to get close to theater.
GoodLuck
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post #3 of 41 Old 04-11-2011, 12:44 PM - Thread Starter
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I do agree that the term Home Theater is subjective in nature. I briefly thought about going the projector route, but decided it was not for us (at least not for this project). Additionally, I have a 46 LCD upstairs that we watch on a daily basis and for games/blu-ray and we absolutely love it. I sit the same distance upstairs that I will be sitting downstairs (~12'), so I think I'll be fine with a ~60-incher.

Anyways, I have a few more pictures to post. These first few are from the CAD software I used for the plan:

TV and Kids Area


As I mentioned earlier, I'm probably going to put my AV rack in the wall where this small bookcase is.

Kitchenette and Bathroom


Close-up of Kitchenette


Notice the Electricial Box between the fridge and the last wall cabinet. I'm not sure of the best way to deal with this.

Possible TV Wall


And here is the basement in its current state:

Proposed TV Wall (between lally columns)


Looking toward Proposed Kitchenette and Bathroom


The weather was awesome over the weekend, so I had other items to accomplish on the honey-do list. Hopefully, I'll get to the re-grading and crack-sealing by the end of the month. I'm sure once I get started on this, I'll starting moving at a faster pace
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post #4 of 41 Old 04-12-2011, 08:18 AM
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Looks like a great project that your family will enjoy the fruits of for many years. A couple comments that may help.
1. Regarding the electrical panel - can you paint it to match the wall color? Or you could put a removable wall panel over it.
2. In-wall and in-ceiling speakers have come a long way and can sound very good. The Paradigm Hybrids look like they may be a good solution for you. Although, like most in-walls, it will be a good idea to ensure you plan for a powered sub woofer to help round out the bass.
3. The rears or surrounds look too close to the listening area. A different solution may be to add directional or angled in-ceiling speakers placed further away on the sides to create the enveloping sound field. Just make sure you properly sound insulate for them.

Hope this helps
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post #5 of 41 Old 06-10-2011, 08:14 AM - Thread Starter
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It's been a while, but I got most of the landscaping finished. Now most of my attention can finally be focused on the basement. After pulling a permit, sealing some hairline foundation cracks and getting the wood delivered, I hope to start this weekend. Unfortunately, most of the work will revolve around my father-in-law's schedule. But, that's what I get for cheap (free) labor!

Just out of curiosity, do most/all building codes require the top plate to seal the wall cavity for fire blocking? Below was given to us by our local municipality (see the 2x6 top plated /fire blocking (ripped to 4 ½):





It seems overkill when in addition to the fire stops. This called for me to order 2x6s to be ripped to 4 ½ and some 2x10s to be ripped to 8 ½ (for areas that currently have a half concrete foundation wall, which I will be building a full wall in front of.) I don't recall anyone running into this (or maybe it's just not a big deal). I only bring it up because it could pose as a minor problem with areas that have PVC pipe at the top of the foundation wall. I guess I box in the PVC pipe?

Running Total:

Permit: $85
Crack Injection: $600
Wood (first order): $1015
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post #6 of 41 Old 06-10-2011, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skillz2882 View Post

And here is the basement in its current state:

Proposed TV Wall (between lally columns)

Is that a grill in your basement?
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post #7 of 41 Old 06-21-2011, 01:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironman70 View Post

Is that a grill in your basement?

Lol - yeah that is the grill that fell down a flight of deck steps during a storm last fall. We were hoping to salvage it, but I already bought a replacement. The wife wants to take to some kind of recycling center.

Fingers crossed on having some framing done this weekend.
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post #8 of 41 Old 06-21-2011, 05:01 PM
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When you order the cabinets, see if they have an open shelf cabinet (removable) option, or there is always framed art. But it looks like you might even be able to lower the cabinets an inch or so and add crown molding.
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post #9 of 41 Old 07-07-2011, 01:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Javatime View Post

When you order the cabinets, see if they have an open shelf cabinet (removable) option, or there is always framed art. But it looks like you might even be able to lower the cabinets an inch or so and add crown molding.

I was considering this, but I wasn't sure if it was up to code. For whatever reason, I figured the electrical panel can't be "hidden" or enclosed. Did you or anyone else do this open cabinet option? This may be one of those, burn that bridge when we get there kind of things.

I took a look at your build thread - you're very good with the wood working and have a nice build. Your idea for the windows was genius. In fact, our basements might be similar - 1400 sqft with close to 1000 sqft being finished.

Anyways, we were able to put up three, count em three walls over the holiday weekend.







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post #10 of 41 Old 07-19-2011, 01:46 PM - Thread Starter
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It's been a couple of weeks, but I have been progressing. The wood pile is about half of what is was in the beginning. Sorry about the iPhone quality pics.

Framed our large closet on 7/9/11:



Better view of closet:



Framed around outside door and another (much smaller closet) on 7/16/11:



This closet wasn't really needed, but hid the sewer pipe access (the white plastic access on the floor):



Running Total:

Permit: $85
Crack Injection: $600
Wood (first order): $1015
Hardware: $60

Hours: 18
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post #11 of 41 Old 08-03-2011, 01:49 PM - Thread Starter
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I was going to stop posting for a while, since this was turning more into a basement finishing thread as opposed to a general home theater thread. HOWEVER, last weekend we got a very good start on the media wall (fka the TV wall - but more on that in a moment). In the picture below, I used my awesome MS Paint skills to highlight where all the components will be going: red = TV (using measurements of Sharp's 70LE732U), blue = the in-wall paradigms mentioned previously (but still open to other options), yellow = subwoofer and green = in wall, DIY AV rack.













Then, there is the white outline of a potential screen. I thought I eliminated the idea of a projector; How will the picture look with the lights on when company's over?; Will I constantly obsess over what and what not to watch over concerns for bulb life?; Sure, projectors are great for movies in the dark, but what about everyday watching and gaming on the PS3?; or Are there lag issues gaming with a projector? But once this wall was built, the 8 foot wide recessed area was just begging for a 100 AT screen. I keep going back and forth and it's starting to drive me (and my wife) crazy. With a projector, you get a bigger viewing area for the same (or probably less) money. With a TV, you don't have to worry amount room lighting, fan noise, bulb life and ventilation. I was initially planning on a flat screen and wiring the ceiling for the potential of a projector in the future. The truth is I'm apprehensive because it's a new technology to me. In addition to doing more research, my wife and I just need to go to a showroom and view these things for ourselves. Right now, she judges projectors by what she has experienced at her work through powerpoint presentations, and I know that doesn't do the technology any justice.

Running Total:

Permit: $85
Crack Injection: $600
Wood (first order): $1015
Soffit Plywood: $80
Hardware: $150

Hours: 27
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post #12 of 41 Old 09-22-2011, 07:43 AM - Thread Starter
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It's been a while, but the basement is completely framed. Due to some time constraints and limited knowledge, it looks like this isn't going to be as much of a DIY as I initially hoped. So, I've been getting bids for HVAC, plumbing, electrical, and drywall.

For HVAC, I was thinking of having 4 supplys and one return. One supply would go over each window, one over the door leading outside, and one somewhere in the kitchenette area. As for the return, I'm thinking the only/best place is coming straight out on the floor (see pic below). I got two quotes with the best being just over $1k. Plus, they were the ones that installed the current setup.



However, I'm worried about two things. One - since the furnace is so close to the TV viewing area that the fan noise would be too loud. Two - that the return is also close to where I plan on putting the sub (in front of the lally pole in the pic). Would the sub vibrations rattle the grill for the return? Also, I'm unsure on how big the supplys and return should be. But, I guess I'm relying on the HVAC guys to figure that out.

Any thoughts or recommendations?

Running Total:

Permit: $85
Crack Injection: $600
Wood (two orders): $1,130
Soffit Plywood: $80
Misc Hardware: $150
Bathroom fixtures :$830

Hours: 45
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post #13 of 41 Old 09-27-2011, 11:54 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm having a little bit of trouble with plumbers. Either they don't call back or don't show up when they agree to. Anyways, I am finding out that hiring out the plumbing was an expensive decision (or non-decision considering my lack of plumbing skills). The two guys that actually showed up quoted around $1,600-$1,800 for what I want done. I'm asking to provide hookups for a bathroom sink, kitchen sink and toilet, install a tub/shower combo, and provide a water supply for a fridge ice maker.

Does this sound reasonable?

Also, and now that I'm thinking about it, are there any precautions I should do with any of the plumbing before the drywall goes up? Insulate / foam wrap any pipes? Any noise deadening techniques?
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post #14 of 41 Old 09-27-2011, 03:22 PM
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We're in the process of quoting an addition on our house. So far we are at about a 60% call back rate and of those, maybe 50% chance of actually getting a quote.

That quote seems a little high, but maybe not unreasonable. It depends a lot what you actually need to get done, hard to tell from the photos. Also depends some on where you live. I would definitely try to get some additional quotes.

Also, plumbing really isn't that hard. You should be able to pick up the basics pretty quickly. If you're not comfortable soldering, PEX is your friend.

-




Is it solipsistic in here, or is it just me?
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post #15 of 41 Old 10-24-2011, 12:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Almost another month has gone by and some more progress has been made. I'm almost at the drywall stage!

The plumber has completed his work - installed hook ups for two sinks (bathroom and kitchen), shower install, waterline for fridge, and installed an additional bib in the garage.

The HVAC guys added five supplies, one floor return, and fresh air for the furnace room. They also installed and ran duct for a bathroom fan, which I have some issues with. The run from the bathroom fan to the outside is 35 feet. Not only did they use 3inch duct, but for some strange reason, a little over half of the run is straight, while the other less-than-half is flex (with the straight leading to the outside). Finally, the fan itself (manufactured by Broan) is rated for 50 cfm. Unfortunately, I did not realized any of this would be a problem until after they left. I called Broan and they recommend (for my 35ft run) a 70 cfm fan with 4 inch straight duct. I'm not sure how important any of this really is, but I obviously want it addressed prior to drywall. Unfortuantely, I have yet to get a call back from the HVAC guys.

Electric has been roughed-in as well: 18 can lights, 21 outlets, 2 phone lines, and 2 cable lines. Below is the kid area with 6 lights. The fridge is currently there since that's the only outlet installed prior to drywall.



Here is the home of any future projector. Ran electric and cable to this area, even though the cable will be pulled back to the AV equipment rack. I'll use the gang box for HDMI and CAT6. What else should I run to the (possible) projector? Why do some run component cable? What's that used for? I thought HDMI would carry the picture?



I got an order in to Monoprice for cables and to test out their in wall speakers. I found out that the Paradigm Hybrids I suggested above have been discontinued. If the Monoprice 6816s aren't up to snuff, then I'll try the Paradigm AMS-250 or CS-LCR.

We also started looking at flooring and cabinets. We're looking for California Burber/Frieze for one half of the basement and vinyl/laminate/engineered wood for the other half. The theme is kind of old world/rustic, but nothing over the top.

After talking to our cabinet guy, we found out (and confirmed with the electrical inspector) that there has to be a 30 inch clearance around the electric panel, which completely ruined our idea of hiding it in a cabinet, and a full L-shaped cabinet bank. Below is the most recent design to accommodate this.

Currently:



Proposed:



Currently:



Proposed:





Any suggestions and advice appreciated!!!
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post #16 of 41 Old 10-24-2011, 07:25 PM
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skillz2882, looks like you are making great progress. I like the overall decor you have in the renderings and also like the 45 degree angles (I used several of them them in my bar/media room) Did not see in your plans a place for your equipment, are you planning to put in an equipment rack? Also, what are you planning for lighting control?
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post #17 of 41 Old 10-25-2011, 01:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d2lw View Post

skillz2882, looks like you are making great progress. I like the overall decor you have in the renderings and also like the 45 degree angles (I used several of them them in my bar/media room) Did not see in your plans a place for your equipment, are you planning to put in an equipment rack? Also, what are you planning for lighting control?

Thanks for the compliments.

The equipment rack will be located between the door leading upstairs and the angled wall shown in the last CAD (placement also show in post 11). I only have it framed out so far. If it looks anything like YW84U's, I'll be happy. Good thing he posted some pics.

I realize now I forgot to include switches in the CAD. Anyway, they'll just be regular switches with a dimmer toggle on the side. I believe there's five zones. Nothing too fancy. I briefly looked into the Lutron Maestero wireless system, but it was too expensive with not enough payoff for me.

Also, forgot to mention earlier - I got a new sub and currently using it upstairs (Hsu VTF-2 MK 3). So far, I love it. I'm anxious to see how it sounds in the basement.

Keep the suggestions, questions, and comments coming!
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post #18 of 41 Old 10-31-2011, 12:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Has anyone come up with a term to describe the hesitation you get when you start to approach the drywall stage? "Drywall-itis?" "No-going-back-now anxiety?" Whatever it's called, I got it. I'm starting to over-think things and drive myself crazy. "Do I need to do this?" or "Don't forget to do that?", because once those walls are up, NOTHING CAN EVER BE CHANGED AGAIN! Ahhhhhh!! (Spooky words just in time for Halloween)

Anyways, got a little more progress to report.

First, I completed the "fridge wall."





I also started on some insulation work. Credit to fotto for the rim joist insulation technique. I had about 40 of these guys:



The wife put hydraulic cement over the concrete tie locations, as they are a weak point for water leakage (just as a precaution).



And with my order from monoprice delivered, got started running some speaker wire.



My biggest disappointment this weekend was with trying to terminate my own cat 6 cable. I think I terminated a handful of cat 5 cables about 10 years ago, so it should be no problem, right? I ordered 1000 ft of cable, rj45 clips, different color boots and a cable tester. I couldn't make one damn single termination. Either the individual wires kept breaking on me as I tried to straighten them out or I couldn't put them in their individual spot in the rj45, let alone in the right order. VERY frustrating. Needless to say, I plan to return all of it to monoprice and just order a bunch of pre-made cat 6 cables.
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post #19 of 41 Old 10-31-2011, 02:34 PM
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My biggest disappointment this weekend was with trying to terminate my own cat 6 cable. I think I terminated a handful of cat 5 cables about 10 years ago, so it should be no problem, right? I ordered 1000 ft of cable, rj45 clips, different color boots and a cable tester. I couldn't make one damn single termination. Either the individual wires kept breaking on me as I tried to straighten them out or I couldn't put them in their individual spot in the rj45, let alone in the right order. VERY frustrating. Needless to say, I plan to return all of it to monoprice and just order a bunch of pre-made cat 6 cables.

Yeah, there's little reason to make patch cables unless you are in the field somewhere and have no other option, or you REALLY need a custom length. Keep in mind that patch cables are generally stranded cable (more flexible, stands up to flexing better) while the in-wall stuff is solid... and they use different connectors! On the other hand, If you have a good punchdown tool then installing the end connectors (the female jacks) onto the in-wall/solid cable shouldn't be too bad. Then you can use a pre-made patch cable from there...
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post #20 of 41 Old 11-08-2011, 08:47 AM - Thread Starter
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I got about 90% of the walls insulated. I hope to finish the walls and start on the ceilings this weekend.

The inspector came today. Unfortunately there are a few small things I need to finish - mostly dealing with fire blocking. I had a feeling I jumped the gun on having him come out.

Last night I only had enough time to mount one speaker. I plan on auditioning the front three channels this weekend.



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post #21 of 41 Old 11-15-2011, 09:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Inspection passed! I'm free to drywall.

The walls are insulated, except for in front of small crack in the foundation which will be injected next week.

The ceilings are about 80% insulated. I will probably finish this over the weekend. I was amazed with how much this helps with the sound transmission upstairs; I didn't expect to notice much of a difference, especially before drywall. Now I have the yell to the wife upstairs if I need something! (or it could be selective hearing - but she swears it's not )

In addition to the ceiling insulation, I have some cat6 and rg6 to run (should be delivered today), some speaker boxes to build for the in-walls and finalize my planning for the equipment rack.

What should I use for the speaker boxes? 3/4" inch mdf? Anything else I should do to prevent audio loss from the in-walls? I already read this article, but just want to make sure I'm not missing anything.
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post #22 of 41 Old 11-23-2011, 08:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Drywall is scheduled for Monday. They went ahead and stocked it yesterday since my wife was off work. There's fifty-nine 12 footers, eight of which are green board.




Unfortunately, there was a nice steady rain for most of the day yesterday. The sheetrock was covered on the truck, but each sheet got wet as they carried it into the basement. When I got home last night, I couldn't feel any moisture on the boards, so I'm assuming everything will be OK.

As you can see, all of the walls are insulated and just a little bit left to do in the ceiling.





Under the tub:


We also got the last two hairline cracks filled:



Added 2 inch conduit to help future proof any potential projector:


In wall speaker wire (taped to insulation) and 2nd potential sub placement ready to be hooked up:



I know I haven't gotten a lot of responses here (regardless of the 5,000+ views), but I'd appreciate any comments or suggestions, since this will be the last weekend to make any changes.
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post #23 of 41 Old 12-17-2011, 10:59 AM
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awesome build so far. would love updates
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post #24 of 41 Old 12-17-2011, 12:01 PM
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The open floor plan looks great! I may have missed it in thread somewhere, but did you fix the foundation cracks yourself or hire it out? Looking to purchase a new home in the near future which has a few minor cracks as well. Was the process difficult? NEED DRYWALL PHOTOS!! Great job again!
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post #25 of 41 Old 12-18-2011, 04:55 AM
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I like where this is going...keep your eye on the prize my man!
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post #26 of 41 Old 12-22-2011, 09:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by hitman6079 View Post

The open floor plan looks great! I may have missed it in thread somewhere, but did you fix the foundation cracks yourself or hire it out? Looking to purchase a new home in the near future which has a few minor cracks as well. Was the process difficult? NEED DRYWALL PHOTOS!! Great job again!

Thanks for the kind words.

I hired out to fix the foundation cracks. They were all hairline, but letting a little bit of moisture in when it rained real hard (and we received record rainfall this year). The cracks appeared in four different areas where the foundation went from full wall to 3/4 wall to half wall (it's a walk-out basement). I assumed these were all weak points in the foundation. Anyways, for about 16 feet of hairline cracks, the epoxy injection cost about $900. I hired a regional company named Dwyer. I searched online and could have purchased the kit myself for $500, but thought I might as well have something like this professionally done, since they guarantee their work.

I'm sure you already did or are planning to, but I would definitely get any cracks in a potentially new home inspected by a third party (of your choosing). While there is no such thing as a perfect foundation, some are worse than others.
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post #27 of 41 Old 12-22-2011, 12:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Has it been a month already?

More progress to report, although never as much as I hope to. The drywall process is compete...









...and even painted!



















I've been keeping a close eye on the prices on the Samsung pn64d7000 plasma TV and the Denon AVR-2112ci receiver. I'll probably pull the trigger after Christmas.
Here's the equipment rack so far and what it looks like behind the TV wall:





As you can see the doors have been delivered. We also ordered 670 sqft of carpet (Tigressa) and purchased 420 sqft of 12 mil laminate flooring. So the remaining to-do list is as follows:

-paint bathroom
-install laminate
-install bathroom fixtures/toilet/sink
-paint remaining closet
-install window trim
-install carpet
-hang doors
-install baseboard
-finish equipment rack/wiring
-purchase/hang TV
-have couch delivered
-enjoy/relax
-install kitchen cabinets (custom = 6-8 weeks)

I'm hoping to have the laminate completed around mid-January. There's one hump in the floor where the fridge will go. I have to look into renting a concrete grinder to help level it out.
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post #28 of 41 Old 12-22-2011, 03:02 PM
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Looking great so far. Which speakers did you go with for the inwall? How do you like the sound? I plan on using ones from monoprice as well. Do you still plan on doing the stone work for the TV wall? If so, how are you going to do it with the speaker there already?
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post #29 of 41 Old 01-10-2012, 11:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by peteypistol View Post

Looking great so far. Which speakers did you go with for the inwall? How do you like the sound? I plan on using ones from monoprice as well. Do you still plan on doing the stone work for the TV wall? If so, how are you going to do it with the speaker there already?

I went with 5 of the Monoprice (PID 6816) speakers. Paired with my Hsu subwoofer, I think they do a great job. There are many better speakers out there, but if you want a decent in-wall for a steal, they'll do just fine. As others have mentioned, just be sure to have a good subwoofer.

My wife would really love to do the stone work on the TV wall, but I don't see how it would work with the speaker and TV. It probably wouldn't look right if I just laid the rock veneer around the center speaker. Maybe build a box of some sort? I need some ideas there.

Speaking of TVs, I got the PN64D8000 delivered yesterday from Amazon for a great after-Christmas price. I hooked it up to my receiver and PS3 and put in a couple of the few blu rays I own (The Hangover and Harry Potter). So far I'm thrilled how everything is coming together.

We also were able to tile the bathroom, paint a few doors, and work on the AV rack. More pictures to come.

Hopefully well get a good start on the wooden laminate flooring so we can schedule the carpet to be installed within a couple of weeks(carpet was delivered to the store last week). We also put down a deposit for some custom cabinets for the kitchen. They should be ready in 3-4 weeks.
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post #30 of 41 Old 01-13-2012, 10:22 AM - Thread Starter
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So here's a stupid question, that I'm pretty sure I know the answer to, but it requires a little more work and money.

I know you can't run power cords through the wall when installing a TV. HOWEVER, the picture below is what the room looks like behind my TV (the TV will be mounted right above the speaker on the bottom right). Right below this speaker is an outlet, sooo... can I simply punch a hole in the wall to plug the tv in behind the wall it's mounted on? The room is open enough for the power cord to keep cool and the power cord will only be touching 0.5 inch of the inside of the sheetrock.

Otherwise I'll have to get a powerbridge.

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