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post #1 of 98 Old 04-30-2011, 09:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Well since the Theater is pretty much done...and I have a Graduation coming up, my daughter is graduating, brings a tear to my eye So Me Bride told my when we built the house the bar needs to be complete for Brooks graduation....well game on I have 4 weeks, we have been here 4 years this June I have the bar stuff ordered and in the mean time I have started building a poker table. So I thought I would share the table build then the bar build as well here. I am pretty far along on the table and should be complete early next week.


I decided for my own table I wanted an octagon, not real popular but I think these look pretty classy and my games are rarely over 8 people. I also wanted a gaming table that was nice to play Uchre and other card games which a Pro hold em table doesn't fit real well.

So lets get on with it
The table is 58" so I special ordered some 5x5 ply wood, only takes 2 days to get from a local lumber yard. Barely fits in the back of the truck :shock:


First I cut a 4x8 sheet down to a managable piece with the track saw, the other half I will use as the sub base

Then cut strips out of some 3/4 ply and mitered them on the table saw



then pulled up a stool and drilled a bunch of pocket holes on one side of the miter


Once complete it was quit work to glue and screw and fit perfectly

Once all three "rings" were complete I simply screwed and glued all together, rounded over the edges and the raw rail was complete

Next I used the rail as a template and traced around and broke out the track saw again and cut out the base

I left the line on these cuts as I will run the flush cut bit around to finish it off. But it fits good as is!

The table will be assembles using threaded inserts and joint bolts found in RTA furniture.

If I had it to do all over again, I'd still hit that shot.
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post #2 of 98 Old 04-30-2011, 09:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Made the pedastal sub sub base....wanted to raise the table up a bit

Then cut sub base and mounted these two together

Then the sub base to the base

And fit all together

I do have the race track cut and was waiting for Router bit that fit the inlay better and it has arrived so tomorrow I should finally get the race track complete then I can cut out the playing surface!
Cheers
jeff

If I had it to do all over again, I'd still hit that shot.
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post #3 of 98 Old 04-30-2011, 09:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Was able to get get the Race track and inside riser complete as well as the cup holders.
Started by routing all the race track for the single inlay and assembling the race track

Then cut the riser pieces. Notice the "reverse" miters. This allows you to just miter on end with not much care about length other making it long enough for the overlap

I normally cut a sharper angle by a degree or so you get a real tight miter joint. Note the riser is just floating and not attached.

Then routed the inlay dado for the riser and cut the cup holders. I cut the maple using the router and the Jasper jig, flipped over and cut the ply with a smaller
hole saw then used the flush cut to clean up.


Have a great weekend! It is beer thirty
Cheers

If I had it to do all over again, I'd still hit that shot.
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post #4 of 98 Old 04-30-2011, 09:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I am getting closer! I finished up the playing surface this afternoon.
Cut out the half inch ply. I used a piece of the 1/8th inch hardwood as a spacer when I traced it out. Once cut I tested the fit using little spacers all around and it fits perfectly

Then tackled the mounting. Some more of the same here, I countersunk the head side for the sub base.

Tested the fit

Then stuck down the foam and installed the hardwood boarder.

this method of the boarder allows for the playing surface to be level with the race track. A common method is to just cover the foam that leaves a slight round over. No big deal but this is a nice added detail.

Looking good so far. I need to get the inlay in tomorrow. Been troubling with how to do this in terms of finish. Want to make sure the inlays do not get the color finish on it. Not sure if I will shellac mask or what....any suggestions?

Here is a pic of the inlay I am using


If I had it to do all over again, I'd still hit that shot.
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post #5 of 98 Old 05-01-2011, 04:19 PM
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Awesome work!
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post #6 of 98 Old 05-01-2011, 05:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Awesome work!

Thanks! I am short a couple of inlay so in the mean time I will get the playing surface and rail covered. I am liking how it is coming along for sure

If I had it to do all over again, I'd still hit that shot.
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post #7 of 98 Old 05-01-2011, 06:24 PM
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What surface are you going to use? I've always loved the green suited speed cloth I put on mine.

See ya. Dave

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post #8 of 98 Old 05-02-2011, 05:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jive Turkey View Post

What surface are you going to use? I've always loved the green suited speed cloth I put on mine.

Ha guess I never said. I am using the small suited speed cloth black, I have the 61inch super stretchy for the rail. Any picks of your table?

If I had it to do all over again, I'd still hit that shot.
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post #9 of 98 Old 05-02-2011, 09:46 AM
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See ya. Dave

"High Fidelity audio has been like a dog chasing his tail. High Fidelity in my marriage has been much more rewarding cause she knows where I sleep."
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post #10 of 98 Old 05-02-2011, 07:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jive Turkey View Post


Looks good jive! I assume that is natural birch????

Edit
Ha just noticed he lights.... I had the same but built the stretcher at my old place over my pool table...looks good and traditional. Did you do pedestals or folding?

If I had it to do all over again, I'd still hit that shot.
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post #11 of 98 Old 05-03-2011, 02:27 AM
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Subscribed!!

Looking good Jeff, can't wait to it done. Also glad to hear we get to see the bar as well. What type of copper are you using for it? I am very happy with my choice to use copper on mine.

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post #12 of 98 Old 05-03-2011, 07:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Subscribed!!

Looking good Jeff, can't wait to it done. Also glad to hear we get to see the bar as well. What type of copper are you using for it? I am very happy with my choice to use copper on mine.

Hey IU, I ordered this yesterday. Pretty excited about getting the bar done, its been nearly 4 years since we built this place so it is definitely time. Hoping the cabinets show up next week so I can get on with it.

As for the table I was short a couple of pieces of inlay so waiting for that to show up. Also decided to try my hand at using dye for the finish so I have been researching and experimenting a bit with that.

If I had it to do all over again, I'd still hit that shot.
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post #13 of 98 Old 05-03-2011, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
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Looks good jive! I assume that is natural birch????

Edit
Ha just noticed he lights.... I had the same but built the stretcher at my old place over my pool table...looks good and traditional. Did you do pedestals or folding?

I went with Maple as I love the easy grain pattern. I went with folding legs for ease of moving and storage if the need comes to be. I thought long and hard about the nicer look of pedestals, but ultimately went with the convenience factor.

See ya. Dave

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post #14 of 98 Old 05-03-2011, 09:07 PM
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Really nice work. And gotta love those pocket holes! It was one of the best tools I bought when making my cabinet doors.
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post #15 of 98 Old 05-04-2011, 02:21 PM
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I forgot to mention; when I had the folding legs put on, the first thing I did was cut them down 2", I think it was. We play at a friends house and I still feel his is too high with uncut standard folding legs.

See ya. Dave

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post #16 of 98 Old 05-05-2011, 09:53 AM
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Jeff, you are doing so really good work. Good call with the flush playing surface, it seems to add a level of refinement to the final product - I am sure you will love it! I have black suited speed cloth on my racetrack table and green suited cloth on my regular table.

Is it safe to assume you are using a single piece of foam for the rail?
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post #17 of 98 Old 05-05-2011, 12:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Jeff, you are doing so really good work. Good call with the flush playing surface, it seems to add a level of refinement to the final product - I am sure you will love it! I have black suited speed cloth on my racetrack table and green suited cloth on my regular table.

Is it safe to assume you are using a single piece of foam for the rail?

Well...I should have ordered a single piece from efoam now that the table has taken a bit longer due to other priorities (2 week lead time for the special order). I do have a single 54 inch wide and going to try to see how it will stretch (the "trick") out by cutting the center first. But may end up with a seam. if so I plan on lightly gluing the butt joint and using some thin fabric on top. Any other suggestions in dealing with it?

If I had it to do all over again, I'd still hit that shot.
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post #18 of 98 Old 05-05-2011, 05:19 PM
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Well...I should have ordered a single piece from efoam now that the table has taken a bit longer due to other priorities (2 week lead time for the special order). I do have a single 54 inch wide and going to try to see how it will stretch (the "trick") out by cutting the center first. But may end up with a seam. if so I plan on lightly gluing the butt joint and using some thin fabric on top. Any other suggestions in dealing with it?

I have never built an octagon table, so I dont have any firsthand experience. That being said, I have read that people have had success with cutting the center out and stretching the foam. I would probably try that first, as having a seam show through on that nice table would be a shame.

If you do have to glue it, I would make sure to keep glue away from the top edge - a dried glue line would surely show through. I would think thin fabric would help hide the seam, but I would use that as a last resort.
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post #19 of 98 Old 05-08-2011, 06:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I slow boated the build a bit...Been trying to get up to speed on using dyes for finish. but I thought I would toss up an update of where we are

I decided to install inlay into the race track and riser. This is the first time using and thought I would share on how I did it. Probably the long route to get there but seemed to work pretty good. the inlay I bought is specified as 5/16, so I order a 5/16 router bit to cut the dado, wrong! I found out pretty quickly that this inlay is far from constant and was not even close to fitting width wise. So i ordered a 11/32 router bit DOA! This was way sloppy! So the ticket I found was to tape sand paper to scrap 1/8 hard board to sand the side. This allowed me to sneak up on the width with out removing material from the bottom. Took some time but a good music listening beer drinking activity



Once the fit was good I used a big Ole socket as a roller. I remember buying this thing for something on my CJ7 years ago but is now my inlay roller!



After a few pieces i noticed the mitered end of the inlay was not completely seated in the dado so I started to clampt to the base to make sure it use securely glued...



And bam here we go. the race track is sanded flush I still need to hit the riser but here are the dry fit pics








Tomorrow is Finish day! I have been big time troubling over the finish. My first attempt at an all spray finish using dyes and toners and stuff I have no clue about. Add the inlay and I was nearly ready to pass out! I spent a great deal of time on the finishing forums and have decided that I am going to come up with a finish schedule that I can blast over the inlay and still have the look I am looking for. I will be running a bunch more test samples then going for it. Should have this wrapped and in the basement by mid week

If I had it to do all over again, I'd still hit that shot.
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post #20 of 98 Old 05-22-2011, 07:59 AM
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So how is the finishing process going? I'm very interested in the final result.

Bob
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post #21 of 98 Old 05-23-2011, 07:56 AM - Thread Starter
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So how is the finishing process going? I'm very interested in the final result.

Bob
Thanks for the bump! I will be spraying the table later this week. I am in the thick of getting the bar complete, finished all the cabinets and hanging and setting them today. Copper counters are tomorrow. Should look pretty cool!

If I had it to do all over again, I'd still hit that shot.
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post #22 of 98 Old 05-23-2011, 12:24 PM
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Thanks for the bump! I will be spraying the table later this week. I am in the thick of getting the bar complete, finished all the cabinets and hanging and setting them today. Copper counters are tomorrow. Should look pretty cool!

I know I am probably too late, but did you consider using some of the copper on the poker table to match the bar?

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post #23 of 98 Old 05-24-2011, 04:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Funny you should mention. Actually the copper came after the inlayl but I am doing another using the leftover for sure. I think it would pretty cool too.

If I had it to do all over again, I'd still hit that shot.
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post #24 of 98 Old 05-24-2011, 04:40 PM
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Copper top table??? That would also match my bar top!!! Lets see some pics already Jeff

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post #25 of 98 Old 05-25-2011, 05:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iusteve View Post

Copper top table??? That would also match my bar top!!! Lets see some pics already Jeff

Would work good on octagons!

I haven't been taking to many pics but here are a couple crappy ones from the evo

I needed to preform surgery to get some electrical and comduit in for the flat screen



Got all the cabinets finished and down stairs


Notice the flat stock bar supports. Just dado'd them intomthe bar wall



And the cabinets set and the bar front complete





I have the counter sub straight almost complete so with any luck I will get the copper glued on and ready for epoxy today.

Cheers jeff

If I had it to do all over again, I'd still hit that shot.
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post #26 of 98 Old 05-25-2011, 06:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is a pic of the counter copper if interested

If I had it to do all over again, I'd still hit that shot.
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post #27 of 98 Old 05-25-2011, 07:58 PM
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I cant wait to see it finished!

I am kind of confused about how you are going to finish the backside of the riser with those odd angled cuts you have there. Can you explain this further?
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post #28 of 98 Old 05-26-2011, 08:57 AM - Thread Starter
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I cant wait to see it finished!

I am kind of confused about how you are going to finish the backside of the riser with those odd angled cuts you have there. Can you explain this further?

The back will be hidden. There is a padded rail that will run from the top of the riser down the side to the base.

edit- If you look at the last pic in the first post it shows the rail, hope this helps clear things up

If I had it to do all over again, I'd still hit that shot.
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post #29 of 98 Old 05-26-2011, 09:11 AM
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Hey Jeff,

Cabinets look real nice, did you make those? I have my dado blade set, and bought a nice Forest woodworker II blade, and Kreg master jig kit, I CNC'ed out a adaptor plate for my table saw extension table for a new plunge router, and can use the fence of the table saw,
I'm trying to build exactly what you have there, I should be finishing ceramic tile in the family room by next weekend, might be looking for some helpful suggestions on building some cabinets, thanks!
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post #30 of 98 Old 05-26-2011, 09:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey Jeff,

Cabinets look real nice, did you make those? I have my dado blade set, and bought a nice Forest woodworker II blade, and Kreg master jig kit, I CNC'ed out a adaptor plate for my table saw extension table for a new plunge router, and can use the fence of the table saw,
I'm trying to build exactly what you have there, I should be finishing ceramic tile in the family room by next weekend, might be looking for some helpful suggestions on building some cabinets, thanks!

thanks and yes I did. I have the same blade, been real happy with it. Sounds like you have bought everything you need. I used prefinished play for the carcass's. had to special order but I think it is worth the price as the insides look professional.

The only other thing you will need is a nice rail and stile bit set I would get one that has the raised panel bit as well. I recommend getting a panel bit that has integrated back panel cutter too.

Oh you may consider getting a HVLP system to help with the finishing. sure speeds things up!

If I had it to do all over again, I'd still hit that shot.
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