Necro thread...Quick basement remodel starts in 11 days...turned into 2 years.... - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 55 Old 08-17-2011, 05:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Just found out the wife is 2 months pregnant with our second child, so the project I was supposed to do myself accross 2 years, will now be done by the contractor who build our house 4 years ago. The basic room(sorry it's in Visio):
Attachment 220340

The stairs going down on the right will have to be a half wall so we can still move stuff down, and I was thinking I could have an electronics cupboard under the stairs that could vent to the unfinished side of the basement. So my question is which way should I have the TV going.

1. The way the couch is pictured now. Get a 50+" mounted on the stairs wall with speakers pointing down from the support beam encasement but still be able to get 7.1 surround because the couch has plenty of space behind it.

2. Paint/put a screen to the left of the sump pump closet, butt a couch right up to the support pole, and have limited side speaker options but be able to use a projector by covering up the side window.


Which direction would you go???
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post #2 of 55 Old 08-17-2011, 09:01 PM - Thread Starter
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A few more questions:

I found the viewing distance calculator at myhometheater.homestead.com it says we can do either a 90" screen at 11.5ft, or a 100" screen at 12.8ft. How do I figure out how wide the room must be for surround sound speakers? I like the idea of a 12ft wide room, even if the side and back speakers are pointing
down at us.

I am wondering if there is a third option...a false wall on the right side. In the image from my first post, I did not add that there is a power box on the right wall right next to the sump pump and window.

I was thinking I could build a 2ft deep false wall so that the stairs, and furnace would be behind the theatre area. I know I am stuck with a sump pump closet, but I was thinking I could use an AT rollup screen to overlap and reclaim the sump pump closet in the corner. I have seen columns on either sides of stages on many of the builds on this site. Could I hide the closet to the left and hide the AV equipment in it's own closet to the right??? I know this takes out the 2-3 ft on either side of the screen that speakers need, would it throw everything off if I used standing speakers, or put the front right and left in the side walls 1 ft closer to the seating than the screen??? the center would still be behind the
screen. I would still be able to wire everything without issue because there would be 2ft gap between the power box and devices if they ended up needing to be placed under the screen.

Benefits would include:
- Reclaim that side side of the room for something useable.
- I could really crank the bass because a side wall will not let sound travel like the stairs would(I

would use dbl 5/8" sheetrock and GG on the stairs wall.
- The front 3 speakers and sub will be further from all the sheet metal HVAC.

Other thought:
The space would then be 12ft wide by 17ft long, I would probably place the couch ~11-12 feet from the screen. If I want to do more sound, should I move over to a sheetrock ceiling with insulation for sound and disconnect the sheetrock from the rafters??? Would the ceiling add more than $1k?


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post #3 of 55 Old 08-21-2011, 06:26 AM
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Welcome! Sounds like you have lots of questions but not much time to work with. I'll toss out a few thoughts in case it's not too late for you.

First, if you are going to have a half wall coming down the stairs and an open wall to the rest of the basement, I would not bother too much with the more agressive sound containment strategies like DD, GG, and decoupling the ceiling, as your sound containment is only as strong as your weakest link, and an open way to a stairwell will render the other efforts somewhat useless. You'd have to decide to either make sound containment a priority and go for it, or not. Half way won't do much for you, but will cost you a fair amount. I would put fiberglass insulation in your ceiling and interior walls to at least dampen the sound, but not bother with much else beyond a single layer of drywall, other than a good, solid door at the top of the basement stairs.

Second, with the limited time available you mainly have to decide the big questions of how you'll lay out your room so you can run the proper wires before the drywall goes up. While it's a bit hard to tell from your diagram, I would suggest option 3, using a PJ hung near the stairs projecting onto the wall opposite the stairs with an acoustically transparent (AT) "false wall" that also hides your sump pump, etc. You can build one of those quite easily with removable panels so you can access the sump pump when needed.

I would NOT put your equipment on this front wall though. That will just add unnecessary distractions of lights during the movies AND eat up valuable space that could be used for a larger screen or columns if you want to get fancy. I'd keep your equipment rack under the stairs, and just run the cabling from there. This will save you lots of hassles later, as you can easily hide/access the tangle of wires/cables out of sight but still access them easily when needed.

I wouldn't worry too much right now about what the projector screen calculators say, other than getting an idea for approximately what a particular PJ is capable of - you can certainly use some trial and error once you get your PJ to decide how big your screen will be based on your personal preference. You have enough throw there for a decent size screen, certainly more than 100" if you want. The throw calculators are a good guide, but within reasonable limits not meant to be too precise.

Do you have wiring you can quickly run to speaker locations, as well as some HDMI to the PJ (or TV) location? How about CAT 6 or 5e for possible ethernet drops, while the walls & ceiling are still open?

Finally, make sure you insulate the exterior walls and rim joists properly for thermal purposes, depending on your location. Do this now, before the walls are closed up, or you'll regret it later when it's hard to heat or cool your space and expensive to retrofit.

Hope this is of some help to you. You want to have your plan down before the work begins, and it sounds like you don't have much time. Measure twice, cut once and all that! Good luck!


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post #4 of 55 Old 08-21-2011, 08:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Thank you, only 5 days left to prep.

Thanks for the door suggestion, that didn't even enter my mind. I spoke to the wife and builder, we will sheetrock the existing walls, run all of the cable needed for the false wall, but not build it until I can do more materials research. The hot water heater will be moving to the other side of the basement to make room for an equipment closet.

Updated Photo: Attachment 220700

We decided on a drop ceiling to cover up some of the existing issues that hang a little low from the original house build. I want to keep it as close to the rafters as possible, I'm hoping we don't loose more than 3 inches. The walls were insulated when we moved in, our worst heating bill for 1780sq ft was only $230 in 3 winters. Is it still a good idea to use insulation with a drop ceiling? If we leave the paper on both sides it wouldn't get too messy would it???

The walls in green will be new, the one on the left by the stairs will go up next weekend. The yellow circles will eventually be speakers. The front will either have uppers or wide fronts if it makes sense in a 12ft space. The sub and center will be behind the wall to the right, and the equipment will be under the stairs in the new wall.

New Questions:

What dimensions do I need for a typical equipment closet? I have seen premade in-wall units with covers for unused shelves. How wide/tall do I need??? Vendors???

I would like to put speaker cable outlets at both the top and bottom for each surround speaker location, how high up should I put an outlet, and how far down should I put an upper outlet? Wiring for both gives us upgrade room, and the next owner more flexability.

How far back should the projector power outlet be??? The space is 12ft wide, with a 7'6" ceiling. I'm thinking 100-110" wide screen with the couch ~12 ft back so the rears have propper space to the listener.

Thanks for the help.
LL


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post #5 of 55 Old 08-22-2011, 05:44 AM
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Hopefully a few others wil jump in here with feedback as wel, but here's my contribution for now:

Quote:
Originally Posted by rfbrang View Post


We decided on a drop ceiling to cover up some of the existing issues that hang a little low from the original house build. I want to keep it as close to the rafters as possible, I'm hoping we don't loose more than 3 inches. The walls were insulated when we moved in, our worst heating bill for 1780sq ft was only $230 in 3 winters. Is it still a good idea to use insulation with a drop ceiling? If we leave the paper on both sides it wouldn't get too messy would it???

You can do drop ceilings as some have done, but drywall is better for sound containment purposes, as it has more mass and any builder should be easily able to do soffits and such to accommodate pipes, etc. If you prefer the look of drop ceilings that's one thing, but it's usually just as possible to hide the crap in the ceilings with drywall and some clever framing. If you want to dampen sound from footfalls above the basement, and sound escaping the basement, fiberglass insulation with a drop ceiling is still probably worthwhile. It won't stop the sound exchange, but it will likely help a bit and it doesn't cost much.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rfbrang View Post

The walls in green will be new, the one on the left by the stairs will go up next weekend. The yellow circles will eventually be speakers. The front will either have uppers or wide fronts if it makes sense in a 12ft space. The sub and center will be behind the wall to the right, and the equipment will be under the stairs in the new wall.

For the front screen wall, why wouldn't you put all the front speakers behind the AT fake wall? If you give up the space and go the AT route, that is the whole point: so you don't see speakers and the sound seems to come right from the screen, like in a regular theater.

I'm also a bit confused by your surround speaker placement, as the side surrounds are usually located at the side of, but just a bit behind, the prime seating. Is there some reason for having them a bit in front of your couch area?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rfbrang View Post


New Questions:

What dimensions do I need for a typical equipment closet? I have seen premade in-wall units with covers for unused shelves. How wide/tall do I need??? Vendors???

Many people buy Middle Atlantic or other specially built premade racks, and although they look great they are very expensive, especially for those custom faceplate covers, and not necessary. Unless you really want to achieve that "look" and don't care about the cost I'd just save the money of a MA rack and have an opening framed in under the stairs that you can finish off as you wish (search for show me your rack threads for ideas). The width is usually pretty consistent, since most components have a similar width of something like 17". You obviously want some extra width, and I think most racks have 18" or 21" widths. I went with about 20" wide because that was the widest that I could easily fit given my obstructions (a support beam). The height depends entirely on how much equipment you want to leave room for. Some go tall, but I went with a modest 3' or so. Your call.

Just be certain your finished width - including your finished cabinet wood dimensions - is not less than about 18" or your 17" wide components may not fit!

Quote:
Originally Posted by rfbrang View Post


I would like to put speaker cable outlets at both the top and bottom for each surround speaker location, how high up should I put an outlet, and how far down should I put an upper outlet? Wiring for both gives us upgrade room, and the next owner more flexability.

Not sure I understand what you mean by "bottom." Do you mean surround speakers on the floor? That wouldn't be my choice, especially in a room with one open wall - you risk having people trip over them or at least run into them. Generally see the surround speakers anywhere above ear height when seated, or up to as high as the ceiling depending on specific room limitations.


Quote:
Originally Posted by rfbrang View Post


How far back should the projector power outlet be??? The space is 12ft wide, with a 7'6" ceiling. I'm thinking 100-110" wide screen with the couch ~12 ft back so the rears have propper space to the listener.

Speaker placement relative to your couch is critical, but I'm not sure why you're worried about PJ placement as it affects rear speaker placement. The key thing for PJ placement is throw, and at 12' or so you should be safe with any number of PJs.

Since it's a bit hard to know the exact PJ location until you decide on your exact PJ and how far out the screen wall will come, lots of folks who are doing drywall ceilings simply put up a large piece of plywood in the ceiling in the general area of the planned PJ. This way they have lots of flexibility to easily attache the PJ in the best spot later without worrying now about knowing exactly where that will be. Same applies if you're doing a drop ceiling: some plywood leaves you flexibility to attache it precisely where you wish later without worrying about the floor joist being, say, 6" off from where you want to attach it. Just be sure to also run and provide an outlet in the ceiling nearby for power and cabling - a minimum of HDMI.


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post #6 of 55 Old 08-22-2011, 09:23 AM
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One more quick question: what kind of clearance is there between the furnace and the door to the finished part of the basement? It doesn't look like you can even fit past to open the door based on your drawing. What kind of builder would put a furnace right smack dab at the bottom of the stairs like that?

Do you have actual photos of the space you can share?


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post #7 of 55 Old 08-22-2011, 10:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
For the front screen wall, why wouldn't you put all the front speakers behind the AT fake wall? If you give up the space and go the AT route, that is the whole point: so you don't see speakers and the sound seems to come right from the screen, like in a regular theater.

The sump pump will still be in it's own section, without much room for a speaker on that side. I thought of making a trap door above it so I could put a speaker directly above the sump pump, but there is a pvc pipe that sticks up from the well and pumps up to the waste water line. So I'm stuck with the fronts outside the fake wall right??? Any ideas are welcome.

Quote:
I'm also a bit confused by your surround speaker placement, as the side surrounds are usually located at the side of, but just a bit behind, the prime seating. Is there some reason for having them a bit in front of your couch area?

The side to the right of the couch is a support beam that will become a column, the right speaker will need to mount off of that.


Quote:
Not sure I understand what you mean by "bottom." Do you mean surround speakers on the floor? That wouldn't be my choice, especially in a room with one open wall - you risk having people trip over them or at least run into them. Generally see the surround speakers anywhere above ear height when seated, or up to as high as the ceiling depending on specific room limitations.

Yes, I want to wire for both floor standing (which would put the speakers at ear level) and higher up the column for flexibility. I will probably use the uppers myself to keep them away from our kids, and just face them down at the couch.

Quote:
You obviously want some extra width, and I think most racks have 18" or 21" widths.

Thanks. The 2x4's on the side of the staris are non-weight bearing 24OC so this will be great.

Quote:
One more quick question: what kind of clearance is there between the furnace and the door to the finished part of the basement? It doesn't look like you can even fit past to open the door based on your drawing.

The arrow points up the stairs. There is space between the furnace and stairs not sure how to quantify it off the top of my head. Right now there is only framing on the side of the stairs, and the builder has not seen the space since we agreed on moving the hot water tank. He will stop over one day this week to hash out some last minute details, including this wall, ethernet cable, speaker wire, carpet, and a few other things.

Tonight we have to clear out the garage for basement crap. I will try to get some photos up either tonight or tomorrow night once we dump our basement stuff to the garage. Thanks for all the help.


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post #8 of 55 Old 08-22-2011, 10:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Forgot... I'm aiming for 30" for the false AT wall including the frame itself, unless there is some regulation that says otherwise. This will leave about 16' for the space's length.


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post #9 of 55 Old 08-22-2011, 01:10 PM
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This is getting tough to respond to one another!

Quote:
Originally Posted by rfbrang View Post

The sump pump will still be in it's own section, without much room for a speaker on that side. I thought of making a trap door above it so I could put a speaker directly above the sump pump, but there is a pvc pipe that sticks up from the well and pumps up to the waste water line. So I'm stuck with the fronts outside the fake wall right??? Any ideas are welcome.

I may be misunderstanding, but it shouldn't be that tough to hide access to the sump pump & discharge pipe behind a removable AT screen "wall" and still use space above the sump pump for speakers, etc. All you need room for is the discharge pipe going up the wall, and of course the ability to remove a panel to access the entire sump pump on rare occasion for maintenance, etc. I hide my sump pump pit in the floor in my bathroom, beneath some removable wood floor tiles. Are we talking about the same thing in an AT false wall? Or are you talking about a fully framed/drywalled screen wall? Perhaps I've misunderstood you, or vice versa.
Here is a link to BIG's screen wall build - there are tons of others, but BIG's was just one I knew I could find quickly.


The side to the right of the couch is a support beam that will become a column, the right speaker will need to mount off of that.

You might consider adding a small soffit in the ceiling to separate the room from the open space. Then you can place the surround speakers exactly where you want them. Height matters less than vertical positioning for accurate surround sound. Just an option to consider.


Yes, I want to wire for both floor standing (which would put the speakers at ear level) and higher up the column for flexibility. I will probably use the uppers myself to keep them away from our kids, and just face them down at the couch.

Well, this is certainly the time to run wires if you think you might want them. Would you run them down the beam on the open wall?


Thanks. The 2x4's on the side of the staris are non-weight bearing 24OC so this will be great.



The arrow points up the stairs. There is space between the furnace and stairs not sure how to quantify it off the top of my head.

AH, that makes a LOT more sense! I read that plan wrong - thought the stairs ran the other way!! Never mind!



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post #10 of 55 Old 08-24-2011, 09:28 AM - Thread Starter
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I had a huge reply yesterday afternoon, then we felt the the quake here in upstate NY. We sat for a moment until someone reminded me our building is 20yards away from a cliff that took out our neighboring building a few years back. I clicked post, but it never posted before I got out of the building..... ahh well... We got the basement almost all the way cleared out and got pictures last night, internet kept erroring out so I will do an update tonight after our little one goes to bed.


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post #11 of 55 Old 08-24-2011, 09:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Can't figure out how to control how where the pictures end up in the post, sorry if this string of posts is the wrong way to go about it.
Entering down the stairs
LL


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post #12 of 55 Old 08-24-2011, 09:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Turn right....
Looking down the left wall, this wall will be deconstructed, have the waste water pipe moved behind it, and then the wall will be rebuilt.
LL


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post #13 of 55 Old 08-24-2011, 09:08 PM - Thread Starter
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We would like the sump pump to go into a column...
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post #14 of 55 Old 08-24-2011, 09:10 PM - Thread Starter
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The freezer will be moved to the other side of the basement, and the right side of this shot is the wall we would like the screen to go on, it is 12ft wide from the inside of the current wall to the support beam. The right column would be under this beam.
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post #15 of 55 Old 08-24-2011, 09:12 PM - Thread Starter
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To the right of the screen area will be a play area for now, but we will include all the fittings for a wetbar under the leftish window.
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post #16 of 55 Old 08-24-2011, 09:14 PM - Thread Starter
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To the right of the windows is more play area, here you can see the H2O heater that will be moved to the other side of the furnace. Between the furnace and the wall to the left in this shot will be a walk through pantry. We will use this space to move large stuff into the unfinished side of the basement.
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post #17 of 55 Old 08-24-2011, 09:14 PM - Thread Starter
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I was thinking I would have enough space to do an equipment closet between the red pole and 2x4. The white pipe is a radon pipe, we had the builder check and we are clear. I will take pictures of the pipes location and we can then cut it and seal it.
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post #18 of 55 Old 08-24-2011, 09:16 PM - Thread Starter
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The stairs framing is not load bearing. It will be a 1/2 wall for ~3ft on this side only.
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post #19 of 55 Old 08-24-2011, 09:17 PM - Thread Starter
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The support beam is actually 3 2x12, I have never seen wood used before this house, and that threw me off. Since it needs to be boxed in to be finished, I was thinking I could use this to mount the sides.
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post #20 of 55 Old 08-25-2011, 07:33 AM
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C'mon gang - I know you're out there ... hop in and offer some feedback here as he is running out of time!



Quote:
Originally Posted by rfbrang View Post

Can't figure out how to control how where the pictures end up in the post, sorry if this string of posts is the wrong way to go about it.
Entering down the stairs

You are attaching photos, when ideally you want to upload them to photobucket (or similar free service) and then just link them here. Makes it much easier for people to see & you'll get much more participation that way too.

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Turn right....
Looking down the left wall, this wall will be deconstructed, have the waste water pipe moved behind it, and then the wall will be rebuilt.

Not sure what you mean by "deconstructed." Doesn't seem to be much to deconstruct. Either they're planning on framing out that wall and burying the pipes inside the framing - which will reduce the width of your room by several inches - or they have to move the pipes elsewhere, probably up to the ceiling. Can you elaborate?

Quote:
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We would like the sump pump to go into a column...

How wide would the column be? More importantly, how much width would you be left with between columns for your actual screen? And are you still planning on keeping for front L & R speakers outside of the AT screen wall? If so, you rarely see this type of treatment - and there might be a good reason for that. Just want you to have your eyes open as you make your decisions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rfbrang View Post

The freezer will be moved to the other side of the basement, and the right side of this shot is the wall we would like the screen to go on, it is 12ft wide from the inside of the current wall to the support beam. The right column would be under this beam.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rfbrang View Post

I was thinking I would have enough space to do an equipment closet between the red pole and 2x4. The white pipe is a radon pipe, we had the builder check and we are clear. I will take pictures of the pipes location and we can then cut it and seal it.

Looks like a good rack location if you can get rid of that radon pipe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rfbrang View Post

The support beam is actually 3 2x12, I have never seen wood used before this house, and that threw me off. Since it needs to be boxed in to be finished, I was thinking I could use this to mount the sides.

That would work great.


Finally, what in the world type of insulation is that on the walls? R value? Looks like an all-too-common practice of many builders of installing insulation in new unfinished basements that is cheap and easy to throw up quickly, but not really the best. Do a search for insulation here and you'll see what I mean.

If you're in Upstate NY you will probably want to make sure you have decent insulation down there before you spend all that money to finish it off. At least in the area that will be finished soon - you can do the rest later. And remember to have the rim joists (where the exterior walls meet the ceiling) well insulated also!

Good luck!


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post #21 of 55 Old 08-25-2011, 10:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Only 1.5 more days to plot out!!!! A little after midnight last night, I made a post after posting the pictures, I had everything written down and well thought out, went to post and whoops.timed out!!!! Now I do write ups in word and copy over when ready

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You are attaching photos, when ideally you want to upload them to photobucket (or similar free service) and then just link them here. Makes it much easier for people to see & you'll get much more participation that way too.

Ahh, gotcha.

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Not sure what you mean by "deconstructed." Doesn't seem to be much to deconstruct. Either they're planning on framing out that wall and burying the pipes inside the framing - which will reduce the width of your room by several inches - or they have to move the pipes elsewhere, probably up to the ceiling. Can you elaborate?

The framing, insulation, and vapor barrier needs to be pulled down and then put back up with the pipe behind it.

Quote:


How wide would the column be? More importantly, how much width would you be left with between columns for your actual screen? And are you still planning on keeping for front L & R speakers outside of the AT screen wall? If so, you rarely see this type of treatment - and there might be a good reason for that. Just want you to have your eyes open as you make your decisions.

The inside of the current framing to the right edge of the hole is 24. We were thinking 2x 26w x 30d columns, the one on the left to cover the pump, and the one on the right for kids stuff, blankets, and pillows. We could however move some of the right column under the support beam. It would not look as good but would allow me to cheat a little. This would give me ~92 interior width which leads me to my big question:

Is there such a thing as an AT roll up screen??? We could get more screen real estate if we could place the screen in front of the columns. In Big's build it looks like his front doors go all the way up. If we made ours only go up 6ft, there would be an extra 10+ inches with the drop ceiling, more if we used sheetrock and build a decorative box around it and fastened the roll up screen casing directly to the rafters. It would have to function manually like the ones in front of the blackboard in grammar school so I could still get to the power box if a breaker ever tripped, or if we need to get inside the columns.

I would like the center, sub and fronts behind the screen and either put front wides outside the screen wall using free standing speakers or front uppers if they really had to go behind the screen.

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Looks like a good rack location if you can get rid of that radon pipe.

Great!!!

Quote:


Finally, what in the world type of insulation is that on the walls? R value? Looks like an all-too-common practice of many builders of installing insulation in new unfinished basements that is cheap and easy to throw up quickly, but not really the best. Do a search for insulation here and you'll see what I mean.

When we bought the house they were really really proud of their energy efficiency, and they advertised quite heavily on that bandwagon. They said they doubled the insulation in all of the outside walls, all of the appliances were top notch, etc. I will have to take down some of the vapor barrier ahead of time and verify it.

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And remember to have the rim joists (where the exterior walls meet the ceiling) well insulated also!

Already done

Speaker wise, should I cable for an amp to be used up front? My Onkyo has pre outs, maybe to keep a single cables length/singal loss down. The longest run fron the closet position to the front speakers would be ~44ft.

Thanks again
-Robb


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post #22 of 55 Old 08-25-2011, 09:49 PM
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I'll try to quickly respond before hitting the sack.

1. On the wall to be deconstructed, I'm still confused - all I see is some sort of silver insulation (vapor barrier?) on the wall, no framing. Is there framing behind whatever that silver stuff is? Why would they put framing behind pipes and insulation?

2. Re the AT screen: there are some pull down screens but I don't know details other than they are generally not as durable/good over time as a stationary AT screen. I still get the feeling from your questions that you would benefit from spending some time looking specifically at various AT screen walls, but it's your call.

3. I would ask your builder to specify exactly what type of insulation they used and what the R value is. They may be telling you straight, but it sure looks questionable to me.

4. Whether you decide you need/want an amp for your fronts, you could just add it to the equipment rack, so no need for any special wiring. Speaker wire comes back to the rack area, where your receiver alone or receiver and amp will be. 44 feet for speaker wire is no big deal. Just remember that you need special cabling for your subs, wherever you may have those.


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post #23 of 55 Old 08-26-2011, 10:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:


I'll try to quickly respond before hitting the sack.

Thanks for keeping up with me, I really appreciate it.

Quote:


1. On the wall to be deconstructed, I'm still confused - all I see is some sort of silver insulation (vapor barrier?) on the wall, no framing. Is there framing behind whatever that silver stuff is? Why would they put framing behind pipes and insulation?

The framing and insulation are behind the vapor barrier.

Oh, I forgot. Our house was a show house for our neighborhood. The pipe was the one big oddity, it was left outside the wall so people could get an idea of how to dictate their house to be built. Three of our neighbors have the exact same build as us with less features, and spent 40-50K more so they could dictate how it was to be done. We decided moving a pipe in the basement of the show house was an acceptable compromise considering the cost savings over building a new place ourselves. One caveat to that is that all three have the same pipe, only already in the wall, and their furnace and H2O heater are along the outside wall on the other side of the basement. The plumber will cost us $400 to move the wastewater pipe and H2O heater. Not sure of the electrician cost to move the H20 heater outlet, but he is already putting in multiple other circuits so it should not be too much more.

Quote:


2. Re the AT screen: there are some pull down screens but I don't know details other than they are generally not as durable/good over time as a stationary AT screen. I still get the feeling from your questions that you would benefit from spending some time looking specifically at various AT screen walls, but it's your call.

The screen will not be going up for months(probably winter), I will do that part myself so we have time to figure out the specific screen type and material. Just looking for base ideas for the column framing and width needed between them.

Do you all think 8' is enough??? I was thinking closer to 10' is possible if I moved the screen in front, or we could put the support beam in the center of the right column?!?!??? I do think that would compromise the look and speaker side speaker placement to get more screen real estate. What about a fold up screen instead of a roll up??? Maybe like a chalkboard that would be on a hinge at the top, but can the bottom lip could be pulled up to the ceiling? Then we could frame an AT screen just like Big did, but still get access to the power panel when needed???

Quote:


3. I would ask your builder to specify exactly what type of insulation they used and what the R value is. They may be telling you straight, but it sure looks questionable to me.

I still need to do this. We packed up my wife and our little one so they could visit our home city during the major construction weekend so I got nothing done yesterday.

Quote:


4. Whether you decide you need/want an amp for your fronts, you could just add it to the equipment rack, so no need for any special wiring. Speaker wire comes back to the rack area, where your receiver alone or receiver and amp will be. 44 feet for speaker wire is no big deal. Just remember that you need special cabling for your subs, wherever you may have those.

Got it, thank you.


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post #24 of 55 Old 08-26-2011, 12:17 PM
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Thanks for the clarification on the wall and pipe. I understand now - I thought that silver vapor barrier was the external layer of the insulation itself - kind of like a blanket attached to the walls, as you see fairly often with new construction, although it often does not cover all the way to the floor or ceiling.

On the screen - if you look closely at some of the screen wall builds you will find a lot of them have easily removable screens and/or panels surrounding the screen, specifically so that they can get easy access to whatever is behind the screen wall. Some just use friction fitting. Doing this also allows you to maximize the width of the screen so you are not limited. In any event, with time you should be able to design & build a false wall with a fixed screen that STILL allows fairly easy access to the sump pump & electric panel. Folding screens and other elaborate approaches really are rarely necessary if all you need is to maintain easy access to behind the screen wall.

You have time on the details, so long as you pull the cabling there now while the walls & ceiling are open. In the meantime, have you gone through this thread on various screen walls? Lots of interesting examples & ideas in there.

Here's one example of a very easy, very basic wall that uses small cabinet hinges to maintain easy access to behind the wall.



Oh, and BTW, here's a link with more detailed instructions on how to best insert photos into your posts.


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post #25 of 55 Old 08-26-2011, 09:03 PM - Thread Starter
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hanesian I can't thank you enough for researching and giving me such great information. I really really appreciate it. I'm going through the forums getting finishing ideas for tomorrow.

I do have another question. What is GOM Fabric? I know it's dark and some of it is AT, but I can't find a google hit that does not link back to avsforum posts, and nobody has mentioned what GOM stands for.... Is it a brand??? Can I get it at Joann fabrics??? Is it an online vendor only???


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post #26 of 55 Old 08-26-2011, 09:30 PM
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Once again just a quick response before lights out. GOM is just a brand name (initials) for a type of fabric often used by AVS folks in their theaters. You'll have time to consider that later. Not to worry. Are you all set for your contractor to begin? Got your cabling in place? Often times contractors don't really know much about finishing HTs right but they seldom let on.


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post #27 of 55 Old 08-27-2011, 10:06 AM - Thread Starter
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We are breaking for lunch. Our plumber cant make it until tomorrow so the left wall is almost all the way down. Some of the studs are currently supporting the wastewater pipe, so it cannot all come down today until he's here to do his part.

Our main contractor/carpenter is building the interior wall and pantry so far. We are still hashing out the columns, I am scouring the forums for pictures of columns being framed so he knows exactly what we are looking for, I found Big's on page 7 of his thread, but am looking for more suggestions to see which way to go. The electrician will be next weekend, I still need my cat6 cable and speaker wire. Apparently paying for 5 day shipping does not include saturday shipping with UPS anymore, and thhey want $11 for me to pick it up from the local distribution center, on top of the $50 I already paid for shipping.

I am ready to run the data/speaker lines when they get here, I got some 1" flex pipe at Home Depot last night. So monday evening I can do my part, and the electrician will be the following weekend.


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post #28 of 55 Old 08-27-2011, 01:33 PM
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I wish I could help you decide on your column problems, but I can't manage to see all the pieces fitting together in my head to find the solution. All I know is I'd do what I could to get the speakers behind the screen, and the screen as wide as possible - clearly you have to weigh your expenses against the benefits... but there you are.

Also, GOM is Guilford of Maine (Fabric). Comes in lots of colors and weaves. It's the stuff that cubicles are lined with. But don't worry about that now.


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post #29 of 55 Old 08-28-2011, 06:35 AM
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I'm not really sure what type of column you have in mind, but here are a few threads that might give you some other ideas.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ghlight=column

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ghlight=column

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ghlight=column

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ghlight=column

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ghlight=column

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ghlight=column

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ghlight=column


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post #30 of 55 Old 08-29-2011, 09:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Thank you both for the help, I'm still digesting the columns ideas. My wife is stranded in our home town for a few extra days while the NYS thruway is still closed so it will be a few days for us to sit down and find out what we both like as a finish. The plumber never made it last weekend due to a baby shower and storm so we have a few extra days.

I can't thank you enough for pulling all this stuff together for us, you guys rock!!! I have been a lurker on this site for the last year or so, just loooking around and getting an idea of what's out there but never really developed a plan of attack. Now that our time table has been bumped up a few years, it seems like I have completely forgot what I was thinking and I wish I had take notes... lol

So I have been mulling over RCA cable today. Our support beam is made of 3x 2x12s bolted together, with our power and water line affixed to the non HT side of the beam. Would it be ok for me to run the audio cables through some 1.5" pvc pipes on the opposite side of the beam??? We would need to frame them in on the theatre side of the beam and since we need to frame extra anyways we could actually frame 3-4 pvc pipes on the theatre side of the 12" tall beam.

Upstairs I am using an 18' bluejeans VC-1 cable for my sub, but the basement equipment closet means a much longer cable, and the VC-1 is kinda pricey at 50ft. Can I go with monoprice instead for the sub cable? I want to run three RCA cables, two for front subs, and one spare.

The contenders:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...t=1#largeimage

versus:

http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/subwoofer/index.htm

Thanks all.


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