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post #1 of 11 Old 12-18-2011, 09:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Fellas, I'm need some help and ideas to get a an ht setup in my living room. I currently have a 2.1 setup as seen in the floor plan attachment and I'd like to try to get a good 5.1 setup. This room is anything but ideal for ht so if I can't get a decent 5.1 setup then I'll likely just save the expense and stick with the 2.1. First(and biggest) issue is the flat panel. You can see in the attachments the area I had in mind to use for a flat panel but one problem I found was that wall has no studs because it acts as a pocket for the sliding door. Some ideas I've had suggested to me are to simply use sheet rock screws or install studs. The sheet rock screws simply don't give me the peace of mind as I'd always be worrying. Installing studs seems like a fair bit of work but the only idea that may work. I've never done it but a couple of my friends are pretty handy so I think it could happen. It would only allow the door to slide in about half way but I guess I cold live with that. Thoughts on this idea? Any other suggestions for how to safely mount the flat panel or ideas on a different location altogether?

As for speakers, about a month ago I was thinking about using in-walls but I've dropped that idea and I'm going to be using large bookshelf sized speakers instead. I know the locations aren't quite ideal with one being 6' away from the tv and the other being 5', but I set up a pair of monitors in those spots and sounded alright. I tested with just music so I'm not sure if it will be too wide for ht material. So, any thoughts on the speaker placement? Or any other thoughts in general?

I've attached some pics to help give a better idea if anything was unclear(and sure some things were), and I'm sorry about not getting the whole wall in one pic. I'd really appreciate help guys as this room was definitely not built with ht in mind.
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post #2 of 11 Old 01-01-2012, 07:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Happy New Year fellas. Well, I went ahead with the install on the wall in question. We had the idea to mount a sheet of 3/4" plywood to the stud on the left and then anchor the mount into the plywood. However, once we began to cut into that wall a little, we discovered that my stud finder was not at all accurate. Apparently there was alot more wood behind that wall than my stud finder lead us to believe. They weren't at regular intervals but there were 3 studs side by side about 25" from the left frame(almost centered). So we mounted the sheet of plywood(34x22x.75) to two of those studs(5 screws each) and then added 3 screws on the right side of the plywood into a 2x1 stud that had a metal housing(it was part of the frame for the sliding door. We then anchored the mount into the plywood sheet with 6 screws(two of them into a stud as well). I wish I would have snapped a pic of the plywood before we mounted the tv(the side pic I attached was meant to try to show the plywood). All in all I think it came out pretty good. At first I was a little concerned I went too large because it seemed to dominate the room(and my last tv was a 72" dlp) but my friends said they thought it looked pretty nice.

Anyways, now onto the next question. I had the idea to run place a media cabinet right behind the wall in the dining room, but now I'd like to investigate using another location. This location would require a long hdmi cable run from my receiver to the display. The cable would be approximately 40-55'. I've read that this is on the outer edge of being able to deliver a 1080p signal, and I'm concerned that it could not deliver a 3D 1080p signal at all. Are my concerns legitimate or can a larger gauge hdmi cable get a 3D signal to my display effectively? If my concerns are justified, what could be used in place of hdmi? I've read some about baluns but I still know very little about them. Passive, powered, what distance can they reliably send 3D 1080p at? Any advice would really be appreciated guys.
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post #3 of 11 Old 01-01-2012, 10:23 PM
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Look at the HDBaseT baluns which will be the best way to go those long distances - Monoprice has units under $200 now, an excellent-quality large gauge HDMI cable at that length is already approaching that price...

Jeff


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post #4 of 11 Old 01-02-2012, 06:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

Look at the HDBaseT baluns which will be the best way to go those long distances - Monoprice has units under $200 now, an excellent-quality large gauge HDMI cable at that length is already approaching that price...

Jeff

Thanks a bunch. Just to be sure, you meant these two correct?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10105&cs_id=1010504&p_id=8122&seq=1&format=1#largeimage

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...=2#description
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post #5 of 11 Old 01-02-2012, 09:11 PM
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Yep - that's them...


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post #6 of 11 Old 01-03-2012, 08:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

Yep - that's them...

Thank you for pointing me to those.

Next part of this is the media "rack". I'm strongly considering using two cabinets in my living room to house all of my components. The dimensions inside the cabinets are 30"w 24"d and 22"h(and there's a few more inches above the opening before hitting the drawer on top of it). There is an outlet in the other cabinet so I would just need to run a few more cables down into the cabinets(hdmi, cat5, coax and 6 speaker wires). The majority of the cables would be run between the two cabinets(I'll need to cut out a hole between them).

Now, I'm sure it's possible to do it, but I'd like to get more experienced opinions as to whether it's a good idea. I'm wondering if there may be potential problems with this kind of setup that I'm not considering. Any and all insight would be appreciated.

Edit: Just realized that I should probably include my component list. Pioneer VSX-53, ps3(fat model), directv avr, crest cc4000 amp, ashly ps2.24, dune hd duo, cyberpower cms1220(surge protector). I figure it's still plenty of room to accommodate all the components.
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post #7 of 11 Old 01-03-2012, 11:20 PM
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Heat kills, figure out some way to ventilate those cabinets, even if you leave the doors open a small fan on top blowing out will help air circulation. Think about a full extension pull out mechanism mounted to the bottom of the cabinet, think inverted drawer or better .... a box maybe 2 inches tall x 18 inches wide x 29 inches deep with a turntable on top. This will make hook up and access behind your equipment infinitely easier!
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post #8 of 11 Old 01-03-2012, 11:29 PM
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Calculate the electrical load of your equipment. Determine what is already being powered by the circuit you plan on using. What size breaker do you have for that circuit? 15 amp? 20 amp?

Additional thoughts on ventilation:
If you can use wall cavities behind cabinets as a chase, drill holes into top back interiors of cabinets into wall cavities and into top plates of wall framing if you have attic above, mount exhaust fan in attic to suck hot air out of cabinet.
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post #9 of 11 Old 01-04-2012, 07:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahPaul View Post

Heat kills, figure out some way to ventilate those cabinets, even if you leave the doors open a small fan on top blowing out will help air circulation. Think about a full extension pull out mechanism mounted to the bottom of the cabinet, think inverted drawer or better .... a box maybe 2 inches tall x 18 inches wide x 29 inches deep with a turntable on top. This will make hook up and access behind your equipment infinitely easier!

Heat is an issue that I have not given enough thought to. At first I thought that as long as I gave enough room on all side to the components that would be enough, but that still leaves the air in the cabinets getting hot unless I physically opened them for a period of time every day. It's a low tech way but you're right that I need to do something

The pull-out extension is something I've not considered at all. I thought about just installing shelves knowing full well that installation would a pain in the butt and thinking that I'll just get through it. Heaven help me if I want to change anything out though. A pull-out is an excellent idea. I'll have to see if Mid Atlantic or someone else makes something as I'd prefer to not have to build it myself if these kinds of things are reasonably priced(fingers crossed).

Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahPaul View Post

Calculate the electrical load of your equipment. Determine what is already being powered by the circuit you plan on using. What size breaker do you have for that circuit? 15 amp? 20 amp?

It's a 20amp breaker and the only other things currently being used on it are 8 light bulbs and a telephone. So I'm pretty sure I'm ok in that dept but I may run a second dedicated 20amp breaker. This would be possible addition of external amps, but even then I think a single 20 amp might be sufficient. It's just that running another 20amp circuit seems pretty easy compared to some of the other things this install will require.

Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahPaul View Post

Additional thoughts on ventilation:
If you can use wall cavities behind cabinets as a chase, drill holes into top back interiors of cabinets into wall cavities and into top plates of wall framing if you have attic above, mount exhaust fan in attic to suck hot air out of cabinet.

I don't believe I can use any cavity behind the wall, but the cabinet is adjacent to a fireplace(a false one) and I may be able to use the hollow space behind it to run an exhaust vent into the attic. I'll have to investigate it a little further when I'm in the attic this afternoon running more wire but I know there's alot of empty room behind the fireplace so it could work. The main question is where does the brick part of the fireplace end. The other thing is that it would still only work for the cabinet next to the fireplace so I'll have to put the major heat generators in there(receiver and amp).

I REALLY appreciate your time and the advice in these posts.
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post #10 of 11 Old 01-04-2012, 09:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Alright, my idea of possibly running a vent through above the brick portion of the fireplace cannot work. I may be able to run a vent behind the cabinets into the attic though. It probably won't move as much air as I'd like but it would be better than nothing.

I looked at some Mid Atlantic products today and whoa! I should have known they were anything but cheap. I doubt I can swing for two of those so I'm either going to have to build something or go with the basic shelf idea. UtahPaul, when you list dimensions for a pull out box you mentioned 29" deep. But the cabinets are 24" deep. Just wanted to make sure I've got the right idea of what you're suggesting before I proceed any further. Thanks again.
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post #11 of 11 Old 01-04-2012, 10:32 PM
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Something like this:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=16404

Handles 75 pounds and pulls out 22"
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