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post #1 of 32 Old 01-20-2012, 11:26 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm going to be FINALLY taking down the wall of mirrors in my media room that is currently covered by curtains.
We are talking about 4 mirrors that are each around 4' x 5' - and appear to me mounted to the wall with some sort of glue.



Does anyone have any tips for getting these down SAFELY? I don't want to have to replace the carpet because they've shattered and sliced me up causing me to bleed out

I will be using thick leather gloves to handle the mirrors, long sleeve shirt, and safety glasses in case there is any breakage - but beyond that...?

I had thought about getting a glass cutting tool and scoring the glass into smaller sections or using tape to make an X or asterisk to hold large chunks from falling... but I don't know how helpful those ideas would be.

-Aaron
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post #2 of 32 Old 01-20-2012, 12:50 PM
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You can either wrap the front in plastic wrap, large tape strips in a diamond pattern, or cut into pieces as you suggested. Put a large trap down on the floor. If it shatters, just roll the tarp up.
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post #3 of 32 Old 01-20-2012, 06:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks!

Any thoughts on getting glue to come loose? I have space to get something thin behind the glass - so I can try prying with something... but would heating it up maybe help with loosening the old glue, or am I just asking for hot shards of glass instead of regular shards of glass by doin that?

-Aaron
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post #4 of 32 Old 01-20-2012, 07:51 PM
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Options:
  1. Find the SOB that glued them to the wall and make them remove them.
  2. Hire somebody with good liability insurance.

I suspect that heating the glass to try to loosen the glue might not be a good idea. Unless you can bring the entire mirror up to the same temperature, you will be creating stress in the hot spots which might increase the chance of breaking.

If the mirrors are tempered glass, the whole mirror will break into small pieces when the mirror breaks. I suppose one could use that to advantage and just break the mirrors after putting own a tarp. If the mirrors are plate glass, I certainly wouldn't try that.

If you pry, count on destroying the paper on the dry wall, if they are attached to drywall. I think you will have a big refinishing job whatever you do. Might be easier and cheaper to replace dry wall.
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post #5 of 32 Old 01-20-2012, 07:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colm View Post

Options:

[*]Find the SOB that glued them to the wall and make them remove them.[*]Hire somebody with good liability insurance.

Haha!!
Yeah...I'd love to track them down - have a few questions about some strange choices they made in the basement

-Aaron
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post #6 of 32 Old 01-20-2012, 08:00 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colm View Post

Options:
  1. Find the SOB that glued them to the wall and make them remove them.
  2. Hire somebody with good liability insurance.

I suspect that heating the glass to try to loosen the glue might not be a good idea. Unless you can bring the entire mirror up to the same temperature, you will be creating stress in the hot spots which can lead to breaking.

Mirrors that size are always glued to the wall. Only way to remove, is tape the fronts, wear heavy leather gloves and a heavy jacket like a Carhart, along with face shield when removing. If you can get a long bladed flat sharp knife behind them to slice through the glue even better.

Otherwise, heavy 10-mil plastic, or canvas tarp on the floor, tap with a hammer to break into pieces, and pick up those pieces with the plastic or tarp, then pour into a trash can that you can use to haul to the dump to dispose, or check with local glass shop. Now of course if the OP checks with said glass shop, they may come in to remove and salvage for reuse, if in excellent shape.
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post #7 of 32 Old 01-20-2012, 08:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregzoll View Post

Mirrors that size are always glued to the wall. Only way to remove, is tape the fronts, wear heavy leather gloves and a heavy jacket like a Carhart, along with face shield when removing. If you can get a long bladed flat sharp knife behind them to slice through the glue even better.

Otherwise, heavy 10-mil plastic, or canvas tarp on the floor, tap with a hammer to break into pieces, and pick up those pieces with the plastic or tarp, then pour into a trash can that you can use to haul to the dump to dispose, or check with local glass shop. Now of course if the OP checks with said glass shop, they may come in to remove and salvage for reuse, if in excellent shape.

I hadn't thought of calling a glass shop...
Hmm... Got some calls to make tomorrow.

-Aaron
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post #8 of 32 Old 01-20-2012, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregzoll View Post

Mirrors that size are always glued to the wall.

Funny, the 4'x4' mirrors in my baths are mounted with a J-channel at the bottom and clips at the top.
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post #9 of 32 Old 01-20-2012, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PTAaron View Post

Got some calls to make tomorrow.

Check their workers' compensation insurance before you let them start.
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post #10 of 32 Old 01-20-2012, 08:22 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colm View Post

Funny, the 4'x4' mirrors in my baths are mounted with a J-channel at the bottom and clips at the top.

Bath mirrors are different from mirrors that size.
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post #11 of 32 Old 01-20-2012, 08:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colm View Post

Check their workers' compensation insurance before you let them start.

Good call

Will most likely go for the DIY options over paying someone though...

-Aaron
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post #12 of 32 Old 01-20-2012, 08:23 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colm View Post

Check their workers' compensation insurance before you let them start.

Why would that be? He is not going to be their employer, he is just going to see if they would be willing to take them in trade for just paying for the labor to remove, if they can either reuse, or just remove to recycle. We have a couple shops here in my town, you call them up, they come and remove the mirrors or glass and dispose of. You just pay them the cost to show up and safely remove the glass, so you do not have to.
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post #13 of 32 Old 01-20-2012, 08:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregzoll View Post

Why would that be?

It is good practice anytime you hire what amounts to a contractor. If an employee of the contractor is injured working on your property, and the contractor doesn't carry the required insurance, they will try to come against the property owner. The importance of this could vary from state to state, but in my state, it is important.
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post #14 of 32 Old 01-20-2012, 08:47 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colm View Post

It is good practice anytime you hire what amounts to a contractor. If an employee of the contractor is injured working on your property, and the contractor doesn't carry the required insurance, they will try to come against the property owner. The importance of this could vary from state to state, but in my state, it is important.

Any place that is a reputable shop or contractor, will carry their own insurance. If they aren't, you should not be messing with them in the first place. Again, you are not the employer of the person doing the work, so you do not have to worry. Anyways, even if someone did get injured on your property, this is where you homeowners insurance will cover any instance, but again, if a contractor, their insurance should be covering them.
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post #15 of 32 Old 01-20-2012, 08:49 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PTAaron View Post

Good call

Will most likely go for the DIY options over paying someone though...

Check some of the diy forums like diychatroom.com or Terrylove.com/forums, since others have dealt with this. I have a couple of suggestions that I posted. Worst case is, once you get them down, you are going to have to patch the drywall anyways. As for the basement, http://www.buildingscience.com has a lot of good info on how to properly insulate a basement and your home.
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post #16 of 32 Old 01-20-2012, 09:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregzoll View Post

Any place that is a reputable shop or contractor, will carry their own insurance.

One would hope so. But sometimes premiums don't get paid or policies don't get renewed for a variety of reasons.
Quote:


If they aren't, you should not be messing with them in the first place.

That is the point. How are you going to know if you don't check.
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...you are not the employer of the person doing the work, so you do not have to worry.

Not true.
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...even if someone did get injured on your property, this is where you homeowners insurance will cover any instance...

...if your policy covers this kind of loss. Not all do. Sometimes it requires a rider. And if it does cover such a loss, expect your premium to go up or even to have your policy not renewed.

In any case, it takes almost no time to check. Seems like a no-brainer to me. But to each their own.
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post #17 of 32 Old 01-20-2012, 09:26 PM
 
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Quote:
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One would hope so. But sometimes premiums don't get paid for a variety of reasons.

in that case, they should not be for hire, nor should they be conning people to let them perform work for them.

Quote:


That is the point. How are you going to know if you don't check.

In my state, most are licensed, and if they are not, I steer as far away from those. I have two contractors that I let work on my home, and both are bonded and insured for more than I could ever do. Let's just say that it is over a million dollars.

Quote:


Not true.

Again, if you are paying someone to perform work on your property, lets say the neighborhood kid to mow or tend your lawn, your HOI will cover them. If you are having someone perform home maintenance, or repairs, they better be licensed, bonded and insured, or they better not think about coming onto your property to perform work.

Quote:


...if your policy covers this kind of loss. Not all do. And if does cover such a loss, expect your premium to go up.

No, your premium will not go up if someone gets injured. Only if you have multiple claims, or your insurance company is desperate due to they need money.

Quote:


In any case, it takes almost no time to check.

Again, if you call up your plumber, electrician, gc, glass guy, they should be holding a insurance, and should be bonded. Period.

I got out of doing A/V & computer/network contracting, due to one people in this town think that Best Buy is the only place to get this stuff done, and will always low ball you in what they want to pay. It was not worth the costs to go into people's homes and carry the insurance. Now I pretty much do consulting from the comfort of my computer, or remote fixes on computers, and never have to worry about that stuff.
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post #18 of 32 Old 01-20-2012, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PTAaron View Post

Will most likely go for the DIY options over paying someone though...

Just be careful, research everything as well as you can first, and you should be OK. Good luck.
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post #19 of 32 Old 01-20-2012, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregzoll View Post

...should...

"Should" is one thing, "are" is something completely different. I can guarantee you that there are plenty of businesses operating in my state and yours that are not properly licensed, bonded, or insured as required by law. How you do know if you do not check?

As to homeowner's policies, yours may well cover you, and your policy may not go up or be non-renewed after a single claim. Unfortunately, that is not true of all policies and all insurance companies.
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post #20 of 32 Old 01-20-2012, 09:51 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colm View Post

"Should" is one thing, "are" is something completely different. I can guarantee you that there are plenty of businesses operating in my state and yours that are not properly licensed, bonded, or insured as required by law. How you do know if you do not check?

As to homeowner's policies, yours may well cover you, and your policy may not go up or be non-renewed after a single claim. Unfortunately, that is not true of all policies and all insurance companies.

If there is a business operating in my state that is not licensed, it is either due to they are trying to get by the law, or that they are not required. Electricians and plumbers are not required to be licensed by the state, with the exception that plumbers have to carry a EPA license, due to the work they do. Everyone else, you have to be licensed.

And yes, that is not true of all companies or HOI, that is why you always check them out before signing on the line, when you want to do business. Costs and bad business practices is why we changed from AmFam to our new HOI.
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post #21 of 32 Old 01-21-2012, 09:28 AM
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Get some thin wire like piano wire to cut down behind the mirror. After taping the front of course.
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post #22 of 32 Old 01-21-2012, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by tomagardner View Post

Get some thin wire like piano wire to cut down behind the mirror. After taping the front of course.

+1

Took two beasts similar to yours down the wall using dental floss
Worked like a treat.
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post #23 of 32 Old 01-21-2012, 10:00 AM - Thread Starter
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I have some picture hanging wire - I'll try to make some handles and see how it works.
Thanks for all the thoughts so far!

-Aaron
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post #24 of 32 Old 01-21-2012, 04:31 PM
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I had to remove some mirrors like that in my old home. Since I didn't want to reuse the mirrors, I duct taped the heck out of the front of them and laid down a tarp in front.

I took some round wooden curtain rod and created handles that I attached to some piano wire. I also used a hairdryer on the face of the area I was working on (with a helper) and I slowly worked diagonally across the mirror from corner to corner. I kept the mirrors in one piece but had to completely replace the sheetrock behind afterward, as it was all torn up.

I think if I could do it again, I might consider just trying to remove the whole piece of sheetrock with the mirrors attached but that may be tough to do without breaking the mirrors.

Jay
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post #25 of 32 Old 01-21-2012, 04:59 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newirishman View Post

+1

Took two beasts similar to yours down the wall using dental floss
Worked like a treat.

I forgot about that trick. Thanks for reminding.
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post #26 of 32 Old 01-23-2012, 07:53 AM
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Any luck? I had a similar situation in our half bath. It was a smaller mirror but I just pried it off the wall. I was stupid and didn't considered the tape or tarp and got away with it . . .
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post #27 of 32 Old 01-23-2012, 08:06 AM
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Considering the size of these mirrors and the fact that they are flush to each other, the improvised wire / floss saw idea at best would seem to be difficult ..

Duck tape / plastic sheeting / complete drywall removal would seem to me to be the best option .. even in the best of cases, it's very likely that the wall will end up damaged anyway, so why not just start with a clean slate .. ??

Oddball: Why don't you knock it off with them negative waves? Why don't you dig how beautiful it is out here? Why don't you say something righteous and hopeful for a change?

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post #28 of 32 Old 01-24-2012, 11:42 AM
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Just checked with my cousin, who does this kind of stuff (remodeling of bathrooms, bedrooms, etc), and she says to just tape it all up and break the mirrors in to pieces,...using all the aforementioned safety advice.
Don't try to salvage anything.

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post #29 of 32 Old 01-24-2012, 12:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the ideas everyone!
I didn't get around to it last weekend - ended up installing recessed lights in the room... kind of trying to delay the inevitable and hoping they magically go away on their own

This coming weekend I will probably end up starting on painting, so I will not be able to put it off much longer.

-Aaron
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post #30 of 32 Old 03-18-2012, 03:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Finally got around to removing the mirrors...

After reading the suggestions and doing some more research on my own I decided to talk with a friend of mine that owns a home improvement/renovation business and ask for a quote to have his guys remove the mirrors and replace the drywall because I was convinced the best method would be to just cut it out.

My friend said "no problem... I'll come over and do it!" ... So we got to work on it today.

I taped the mirrors up with duct tape to prevent catastrophic failure... but it turned out to be unnecessary. We were able to use a wonder bar and simply pry the mirrors right off the wall! Each of the 3 panels had about 9 blobs of construction adhesive holding them on - and with some pulling they either popped loose from the wall or the mirror.
All 3 came off without any damage - only damage happened when we were setting one of them down in the garage when a corner got chipper

We scraped off the rest of the blobs and my friend did the first 2 layers of drywall mud to repair the damage - and I will be sanding and doing a third or possibly 4th coat before I do my painting...

Anyway - just thought I would share what the final solution ended up being.

-Aaron
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