PINTO BEANS Man Room Build Thread - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 94 Old 02-13-2012, 11:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Good day gents! I am currently in the process of closing on my new home (yay! no more apt!) and will be having a man room. This will not be a dedicated theater but will definitely have most of the characteristics of a theater. Let's say it shall be the focal point.

I would like to clarify that I am very open to constructive criticism and advice, so PLEASE do not hold back.

PINTO PLACE shall contain the following equipment and features -

Items to be included -

HOME THEATER
Khanspires (front left and right)
Dayton RS Center channel (center, duh )
MARKK 225/28A's (surrounds)
EMOTIVA XPA-3 (power for front stage)
EMOTIVA UPA-2 (power for surrounds)
ONKYO 876 (for now the processing...will change down the road)
Projector (researching currently)
110" diagonal screen
substage including Elemental Designs 19Os and 13As (may change)
Lighting system, acoustic treatments and room treatments

Mini Wet Bar ( the closet will be converted)

Foosball table

Arcade Authentic Galaga machine (maybe with Ms. Pac-Man, still considering a custom unit with emulators)

Poker Table (custom built)

I shall post the current blue print I have been working on and some pics of the actual space as the seller had it.

Blueprint -


Pics -
From the doorway/hallway


Screen wall


Left wall


Rest of left wall


Back wall


Right wall


Rest of the right wall
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post #2 of 94 Old 02-13-2012, 11:44 AM - Thread Starter
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My first area of concern is soundproofing. The room is above the garage, has an attic above, and the hallway and bathroom back up to the room. Pics below show the room above the garage -



and behind the closet in the man room is the master bath and beside the closet is the second full bath(easy place to tap into water and what not for the wet bar).

So I was unsure if I should gut the entire room and start from scratch or if I could get by doing the ceiling and back wall. This is where the expertise of the forum really comes in handy. I don't want to tear out the whole room and then be told, "oh you could have just done...."
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post #3 of 94 Old 02-14-2012, 06:15 AM - Thread Starter
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First time with sketchup! Trying to get a better idea of how things will go.

Coming along
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post #4 of 94 Old 02-14-2012, 02:43 PM - Thread Starter
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some more work done in sketchup. slowly but surely getting the hang of it. Re did the speakers so they are components, and added a couch, similar to what I would like.



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post #5 of 94 Old 02-14-2012, 02:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Just thought about this. Center viewing position is about 10ft back. I would have to severely angle the center channel to be focused in that position. I think I may be better off putting it on a riser on the floor since I will only have one row of seating.

What doth thee say?
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post #6 of 94 Old 02-15-2012, 06:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Almost perfect in layout. Only thing it looks like I am going to have to compromise on is the walk through between the foosball table and the couch. Unless I offset the couch or tighten up the space between the foosball table and the offset near the hallway into the room. Or just live with the ~8" gap.



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post #7 of 94 Old 02-16-2012, 06:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Wet bar under construction, repositioned the center channel and keep changing my mind on the couch.







Also am 90% sure I'll be picking up a U Line bar fridge with ice maker.
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post #8 of 94 Old 02-16-2012, 08:32 AM
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That room is going to feel pretty small with all that stuff in there. I'd pull out the poker table and move the couch back a few more feet. After adding chairs around the table, I think it will feel very cramped. just my 2 cents. good luck

Oh, and toss the Yankees stuff too..... ; )
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post #9 of 94 Old 02-16-2012, 09:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scout's staff View Post

That room is going to feel pretty small with all that stuff in there. I'd pull out the poker table and move the couch back a few more feet. After adding chairs around the table, I think it will feel very cramped. just my 2 cents. good luck

Oh, and toss the Yankees stuff too..... ; )

Thanks Scout! I am a little concerned about how it will feel in there when I get stuff in there. Thankfully I am going to do each piece as I go. So I will be able to measure and lay out and get a feel before I spend the money buying and building.

I am thinking about making a narrow poker table, so only about 3' wide instead of the one in the pic that is almost 4' wide.

No worries on the stuff in the room. That's the sellers stuff.
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post #10 of 94 Old 02-19-2012, 07:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Just about done with the planning unless in looking at other build threads I find something to pull from them.









Let me know if you guys see some thing that is WAY out of place or you think would be better.
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post #11 of 94 Old 02-20-2012, 06:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok, first question. Soundproofing.

The room is above the garage at the end of the house, only connected to the rest of the house by the backwall (the wall behind the surrounds) and the attic. I was planning on using WC and Hat channel on the entire room, but can I get away with just doing the back wall and ceiling? I started using estimator for how many I would need and it would be cut by about 70% if I do just the back wall and ceiling. I will be doing DD + GG on the entire room as well.
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post #12 of 94 Old 02-22-2012, 06:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Soundproofing thread for the space -
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1395492
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post #13 of 94 Old 02-23-2012, 06:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Another piece has been acquired! Say hello to my new Bar fridge!

http://www.u-line.com/products/2000-...o-co2175f.html

It is the older model, the 2075, not the 2175, but is supposedly minty fresh.
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post #14 of 94 Old 02-23-2012, 11:16 AM
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WOW. This is one serious "Man Cave". Looks like it will be very cool. My fiance will be jealous when I show him your sketches. I am curious if perhaps with all the big furniture pieces in the room, it might feel too small. What if you move the Foosball table so that it sits horizontal to that wall instead of perpendicular to it. Obviously you would want to leave some room along the wall so someone can squeeze behind it to play that side. Maybe this will give you more walking space past the couch?
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post #15 of 94 Old 02-23-2012, 11:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks IYA! That spot between the foosball table and couch is the only one I feel is going to be a little tight. When I get in the space after redoing the room I am going to see if I can slide the table a bit toward the back wall to free up some room. If not, I can handle compromising there.

In regards to the poker table, I feel the chairs that I put around it are going to be the ultimate deciding factor on what the room feels like. Tons of "free" space in front of the couch, I think i measured a bit over 2ft between the corner of the couch and the arcade game, and I am building a custom poker table that will only be 3 ft wide instead of the typical 4, which will give on average 2.5 ft on each side of it. Obviously when people are playing poker it will be a bit tight to walk around there, but I don't propose a lot of people will be up and moving in the middle of a tourney, and if they are no one will really be watching the projector.

I'm hoping it doesn't feel too tight, but think i am right at the line of comfortable and too close.

I've done some thinking about the cabinets and can't wait to build those. Going to carry some nice architectural/geometric cues in the door panels for the upper cabinets. I'm crazy excited to start. Only 6 more days till I get keys for the house!
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post #16 of 94 Old 02-27-2012, 10:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Next phase of planning. Lighting.

What would you guys suggest to keep this looking clean. I like the 4" lights most people are using right now for under the soffitts, but am concerned about the poker table and general light. Would you go with sconces in this type of room? ceiling light fixture?

The only lights I am set on are LED's on the faces of the soffitt behind/on top of the lower molding and the 4" lights under the soffit.

Give me some ideas here........pics would be nice.

Just thought about it...or is it as simple as 2 more 4" recessed above the poker table and two above the foosball table? I will be using a Grafik-Eye.
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post #17 of 94 Old 03-19-2012, 06:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Finally had an opportunity in the midst of moving into the new home and having the whip cracked on me to get things done, I was able to clean up a bit in the man room and get a chair, my old 55" TV, my Khanspires and Dayton RS Center hooked up and running.

The room is actually very well sealed off from the rest of the house. With the hollow core door closed, the SPL level immediately outside the door is at a normal level while the system is playing at reference level. Obviously I don't have the subwoofers in there yet, but has me optimistic on how well it will be soundproofed when I get done treating it. Downstairs you can just make out noise, I'd say it is whisper level.

And actually, The most sound I hear outside of the room is actually outside of the house! I think that is because the venting for the attic is right above Pinto Place.

I'm going to do as someone else did....I can't remember who it was, but they sealed the holes in the hollow core and then filled it with sand and the door weighed in excess of 100 lbs they said. So I'm going to try that out first and see what happens, along with gasketing the door frame to completely seal it. Cheap and quick way to see just what I am working with.
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post #18 of 94 Old 03-22-2012, 05:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Temporarily setup, more so that I have places to put things for now so I can get situated and moved in. Things will get moved out in a short while for the gutting and reworking, but for now enjoying the space.

HT area in basic position. Towers will be wider, screen on wall, recliner is at proper centered position for where it will be when finished.


The foos, not in proper position but general area.
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post #19 of 94 Old 03-26-2012, 05:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is the rendering so far of my poker table. 2.5" wide, about 6 ft long, fits 6 people VERY comfortably. I could have squeezed 7 but figured why? Rather be comfortable. I may make the table leafed anyway to put in 4 more for a ten person game. The arm pad will be whisper vinyl, the track padouk, and the play area black speed felt.




I should be picking up the Padouk this or next week.
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post #20 of 94 Old 03-26-2012, 05:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Forgot to mention.....I finally completed collecting the subwoofer drivers for the substage of this project.

I picked up the last three drivers last weeekend. So now I have four of these -
13Av.2


And two of these -
19Ov.2
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post #21 of 94 Old 03-26-2012, 10:42 AM - Thread Starter
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post #22 of 94 Old 03-29-2012, 10:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Current plans for soundproofing -

Joining wall -
Double stud wall (decouple)
Triple double of drywall/green glue (mass/dampening)

Rest of walls -
Clips (decouple)
DD+GG (mass/dampening)

Ceiling -
TBD
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post #23 of 94 Old 08-19-2012, 05:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Still alive.....biggrin.gif
Here are the current state of affairs, courtesy of my crappy cell phone. smile.gif

IMAG0363.jpg

IMAG0364.jpg

IMAG0365.jpg

IMAG0366.jpg

IMAG0367.jpg

IMAG0368.jpg

IMAG0369.jpg

IMAG0370.jpg

IMAG0371.jpg
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post #24 of 94 Old 04-30-2013, 06:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Wow. Been some time. Started demolition in the wet bar area. This entire wall will get staggered studs, insulated, triple drywall and GG. Fridge water line is in already, going to be doing the plumbing for the sink in about 2 weeks.











Some tastiness after a little labor.
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post #25 of 94 Old 05-01-2013, 08:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Quick question, I am planning on keeping the room functional for as long as I can, so was going to do it wall by wall. Is there any foreseeable problem with this?
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post #26 of 94 Old 05-01-2013, 09:22 PM - Thread Starter
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A bit more demo done! One little partition wall and the header and a foot board to cut, then I can start the stagger wall!

First, my terrible dinner tonight....tongue.gif


But the smidge of work I did tonight.....some proof...cool.gif







And another reason work is going slow in here.... biggrin.gif (pardon crappy cell phone pics...)


















Quick question, I am planning on keeping the room functional for as long as I can, so was going to do it wall by wall. Is there any foreseeable problem with this?
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post #27 of 94 Old 05-02-2013, 07:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Does any one think it will be necessary for me to put the Man Room on it's own breaker, or is it fine the way it is? The only things on the same breaker are some lights and a few outlets (bedrooms, bathroom). Just thought I would ask before I start running wires. TIA!
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post #28 of 94 Old 05-02-2013, 11:17 AM
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Do a load calculation. If your breaker is 15 amp at 120 volts you get 1800 watts but you're only supposed to use 80% of the capacity so 1800 x .8 = 1440 watts or 12 amps. Now look at the lights and equipment on the circuit and determine the max wattage you'll be using. Keep in mind that certain devices have a higher start-up load or a load caused by an off/on motor (like a fridge, blender etc.). That information should be listed on the device. AV receiver can be anywhere from 500 +, throw in your projector, mini fridge,subs etc.

If you have space in your panel for a dedicated circuit I would run at least one now while you can 20 amp if possible for outlets which gives you 1920 watts/16 amps of headroom (just keep in mind if DIY you need 12/2 wire and 20 amp rated outlets). You have a lot of equipment in there. I would keep the lights on the existing circuit.
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post #29 of 94 Old 05-02-2013, 11:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmhug View Post

Do a load calculation. If your breaker is 15 amp at 120 volts you get 1800 watts but you're only supposed to use 80% of the capacity so 1800 x .8 = 1440 watts or 12 amps. Now look at the lights and equipment on the circuit and determine the max wattage you'll be using. Keep in mind that certain devices have a higher start-up load or a load caused by an off/on motor (like a fridge, blender etc.). That information should be listed on the device. AV receiver can be anywhere from 500 +, throw in your projector, mini fridge,subs etc.

If you have space in your panel for a dedicated circuit I would run at least one now while you can 20 amp if possible for outlets which gives you 1920 watts/16 amps of headroom (just keep in mind if DIY you need 12/2 wire and 20 amp rated outlets). You have a lot of equipment in there. I would keep the lights on the existing circuit.

Thanks JM, and that is a great idea. Lights all on the current one and equipment on the other. Everything has run fine right now, and the only pieces I don't have in use right now are the sub amps. I have a 300W amp but that's 10% of what will be running. Shoot, maybe just the living items on the existing and the A/V on the other. That would probably be a smart move.
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post #30 of 94 Old 05-02-2013, 08:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Only thing left to tear down is the partition header. Cut that down this weekend some time. Maybe tomorrow night.



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