Soliciting suggestions for the HT - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 5 Old 03-15-2012, 09:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Hello AVS Forum, I am new here. Attached are pictures of my third floor converted bedroom used for my HT. I would like suggestions for cheapo improvements to the room itself, not the equipment. The room is 11X17X8 with two dormer window cut-outs. The screen is 106". The equipment is on a small TV stand below the screen with rear bookcase surrounds. I have access to the rear of the drywalled screen wall and the ceiling. FOur of the seven can lights are on a separate dimmer switch closest to the screen, the rear three cans are on a remote controlled dimmer, all controlled by the Logitch Harmony One. The rear bookcase is built in and not to be moved, the walls are the remain the same color. Carpet to be replaced. The ceiling is too low to tier seats, the room (17' long) is too short to place two rows of seats without the closest seat being too close to the screen. The projector cannot be mounted any farther back toward the rear wall. The futon allows an open area for the neighborhood kids to sit on beanbag chairs and saucer chairs. Home theater seats would fit but I think I like the loveseat arrangement as it is only my family (2 adults, one 5 year old) watches in here 95% of the time.

I am looking for any suggestions to improve the space with my current room floorplan! I do not have the money to turn this into a typical home theater room (columns, popcorn makers, rope lighting), but any help is appreciated.
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post #2 of 5 Old 03-15-2012, 12:05 PM
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From your 106" screen, how far is it to your eyeballs while seated on the white sofa? Due to the wide-angle lens, the proportions are off, but it still looks like you might be sitting a little too far away relative to the screen size.

Use this handy calculator:

http://myhometheater.homestead.com/v...alculator.html

I'd suggest possibly moving your couch closer and getting some matching side surround, wall mountable speakers and using the bookshelf speakers currently placed in the bookshelf unit as back surround speakers. The left side surround would be placed on the wall next to your double doors. Adjust your shelving so both back speakers are at the same height. You then have a full 7.1 setup. Be sure to rewire your receiver so that the current back speakers are actually now seen as used for the back surround channels.



If you only have easy access through the ceiling for wiring the side surrounds (and not the side walls so you can fish them through from the attic), pull the wires down through small holes in the ceiling and crown molding right next to the wall and hide the hanging wires behind paintable, plastic wire molding down to the side surround speaker locations. That's what my neighbor did when he re-worked his bonus room and it looks just fine.

As for the screen wall, I would move your equipment to a normal equipment shelf rack and place the center speaker on a proper speaker stand. It would lessen the equipment clutter and you could set your center speaker below the screen in the center of the image where it should be.

Look into some non-permanent acoustic wall (ceiling too?) paneling and corner bass traps. They can be fairly aesthetically pleasing and will greatly improve the sound in your room.

Too bad you can't change the room colors because they're really too light for a projector and screen. Dark colors and a black ceiling are ideal.

I would make one equipment upgrade suggestion: replace your Polk subwoofer with an HSU VTF-3 mk 4 or VTF-15h. You'll thank me later.

Listen up, studios! Just say "NO" to DNR and EE!!
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post #3 of 5 Old 03-15-2012, 12:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cme4brain View Post

Hello AVS Forum, I am new here. Attached are pictures of my third floor converted bedroom used for my HT. I would like suggestions for cheapo improvements to the room itself, not the equipment. The room is 11X17X8 with two dormer window cut-outs. The screen is 106". The equipment is on a small TV stand below the screen with rear bookcase surrounds. I have access to the rear of the drywalled screen wall and the ceiling. FOur of the seven can lights are on a separate dimmer switch closest to the screen, the rear three cans are on a remote controlled dimmer, all controlled by the Logitch Harmony One. The rear bookcase is built in and not to be moved, the walls are the remain the same color. Carpet to be replaced. The ceiling is too low to tier seats, the room (17' long) is too short to place two rows of seats without the closest seat being too close to the screen. The projector cannot be mounted any farther back toward the rear wall. The futon allows an open area for the neighborhood kids to sit on beanbag chairs and saucer chairs. Home theater seats would fit but I think I like the loveseat arrangement as it is only my family (2 adults, one 5 year old) watches in here 95% of the time.

I am looking for any suggestions to improve the space with my current room floorplan! I do not have the money to turn this into a typical home theater room (columns, popcorn makers, rope lighting), but any help is appreciated.


I will add that the two-doored closet has an electrical outlet wired inside for possible popcorn maker/fridge. I could I suppose wire the closet as the equipment rack- can you run large gauge wire from my amp in the closet to the from screen wall?
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post #4 of 5 Old 03-15-2012, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cme4brain View Post

I will add that the two-doored closet has an electrical outlet wired inside for possible popcorn maker/fridge. I could I suppose wire the closet as the equipment rack- can you run large gauge wire from my amp in the closet to the from screen wall?

See my edited post above yours. You posted before I could finish my thoughts.

If you have free access in the walls and attic to pull wires using a fish tape, you can easily run your old speaker wire from the bookshelves in the back of the room to the closet and new in-wall speaker wire to all your other speaker locations. Run the HDMI cable from your projector to the A/V closet and a subwoofer cable from the closet to your screen wall as well.

Run passive 12 gauge Romex electrical wire from your projector's power outlet to a power inlet in the closet for your equipment rack as well to use as a "power bridge" (you can search this phrase for more info.). It will allow you to put the projector on a separate home theater UPS and surge protector (if the power goes out, the projector bulb can still be properly cooled down with the fan... you can also place your DVR on the UPS as well). If you are so inclined, you can also do a "power bridge" Romex run for your powered subwoofer so it can be protected by a surge protector in the closet as well.

Make sure that your equipment rack A/V components in the closet (and the sub and projector) are on a separate 20 amp circuit (or two, depending on the total electrical load) from the one you plug your mini fridge and microwave and/or popcorn maker to. Those must all be on separate circuits with the proper amperage as per your local ordinance codes.

It may seem like a lot of extra work, but it would be well worth it.

Listen up, studios! Just say "NO" to DNR and EE!!
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post #5 of 5 Old 03-15-2012, 05:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Dan Hitchman View Post

See my edited post above yours. You posted before I could finish my thoughts.

If you have free access in the walls and attic to pull wires using a fish tape, you can easily run your old speaker wire from the bookshelves in the back of the room to the closet and new in-wall speaker wire to all your other speaker locations. Run the HDMI cable from your projector to the A/V closet and a subwoofer cable from the closet to your screen wall as well.

Run passive 12 gauge Romex electrical wire from your projector's power outlet to a power inlet in the closet for your equipment rack as well to use as a "power bridge" (you can search this phrase for more info.). It will allow you to put the projector on a separate home theater UPS and surge protector (if the power goes out, the projector bulb can still be properly cooled down with the fan... you can also place your DVR on the UPS as well). If you are so inclined, you can also do a "power bridge" Romex run for your powered subwoofer as well so it can be protected by a surge protector in the closet as well.

Make sure that your equipment rack A/V components in the closet (and the sub and projector) are on a separate 20 amp circuit (or two, depending on the total electrical load) from the one you plug your mini fridge and microwave and/or popcorn maker to. Those must all be on separate circuits with the proper amperage as per your local ordinance codes.

It may seem like a lot of extra work, but it would be well worth it.

Thank you so much for the thoughts, you have been helpful!
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