"Clothing Optional" Media Room - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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General Home Theater & Media/Game Rooms > "Clothing Optional" Media Room
shaun.ivy@adtran's Avatar shaun.ivy@adtran 11:05 AM 09-18-2012
I went in looking to see how much 3/8" tempered glass would be. Over $350....
The glass company said that was serious overkill and 1/4" would be fine. $32
There glass case they use as a counter has 1/4" non-tempered glass top.
They claimed that tempering doesn't make the glass that much stronger, it just makes it safer if it does break.
Guess I will have to be careful when dancing in the shower.
I had really planned on practicing my Chuck Norris roundhouse moves in there to...dang.

I did order Enduroshield coating for the glass and tile/grout.
http://www.enduroshieldusa.com/
I know my last shower doors looked terible after a couple months and were really hard to clean.
If this stuff is half as good as they claim, it will be worth every penny.

Our water has a lot of calcium or lime that builds up and etches glass.
I can' t have that in front of my TV....

At $32 I could replace the glass every couple years if I just had to.
at $350 I would be stuck with it.

shaun.ivy@adtran's Avatar shaun.ivy@adtran 11:22 AM 09-18-2012
I can't seem to find anything on this:
Should I enclose the back of the Klipsch R-2800-CSM Ceiling speaker?

http://www.klipsch.com/r-2800-csm-in-ceiling-speaker

It did say it was an infinite baffle design which makes me think no... but if so how do I keep insulation from piling on top of it.
My first thought was to build a box behind it, but I don't want to mess up the sound.
youthman's Avatar youthman 11:29 AM 09-18-2012
Gotcha Nick. Guess it's for safety.
advertguy2's Avatar advertguy2 11:32 AM 09-18-2012
How are you planning on waterproofing that niche in your tilework? I assume you waterproofed your other tilework somehow (plastic sheeting behing the backerboard, draped overtop of tub flange or perhaps a surface applied membrane like redguard or kerdi)?

What are the plans for stopping the water fromt he shopwer from getting everywhere? Shower curtain or door? If curtain, then the 4 body sprays you have on the long wall may just blow that curtain away. tongue.gif
shaun.ivy@adtran's Avatar shaun.ivy@adtran 01:08 PM 09-18-2012
There is no additional waterproofing behind the tile. I talked to a couple guys to do tile and they said you just needed to waterproof the shower pan, which is the tub in this case.
The tile deck has a slight slope into the tub so it should drain. The Nitch will also have the same.
I will be using sealer that mixes with the grout to make it impervious to water then as an extra precaution, and because we don't want to spend alot of time cleaning, I will seal the entire surface with enduroshiled.
Changes in plane (corners etc) will be sealed with color matched silicon instead of grout to prevent cracking with seasonal movement.

I really hope I have not screwed that up.
First tile job....

I will be installing shower doors to keep the water in.
I don't have any body sprayers. 4 showerheads. Two standard style shower heads, rain shower, and hand shower.
4 larger holes you see are control valves for the double shower.
His/hers temp control and above each the diverter valves for shower head selection.
My side has standard shower and rain shower.
Her side has standard shower (with highpresure head) and hand shower.
I hate shower curtains.....
advertguy2's Avatar advertguy2 07:34 AM 09-19-2012
I hear you on the shower curtains thing.

There should always be some sort of waterproofing behind the tile (either in front or behind the backerboard) up to the level of the showerhear as a minimum. Grout isn't waterproof, even with the "sealer". All the sealer really does is make it easier to clean. I would recommend against applying a sealer to your tile surface if it's ceramic/porcelain. not needed and will likely cause issues later on. A shower should be waterproofed before the tile is even applied. I would do something about your niche if you still can. I would also suggest going over to the johnbridge.com forum and see what your options are at this point. They're a tile forum that gives great advice.
shaun.ivy@adtran's Avatar shaun.ivy@adtran 08:05 AM 09-26-2012
So...after doing a bit of research advertguy2 is right. You should waterproof before laying the tile according do the pro tile supply places.
The tile guys I talked to all say it is unnecessary and I should have no problems. You should waterproof the shower pan but that is all.
A couple guys did custom showers 10 years or more ago and they have had no problems with only waterproofing the pan. If I had known about the stuff sooner I would have used it as insurance, but it is too late for that now.
They only sell the stuff by the gallon and at almost $60 I will silicon the nitch the best I can and call it good.
shaun.ivy@adtran's Avatar shaun.ivy@adtran 08:31 AM 09-26-2012
I installed 4 of these last night replacing the hard mounted motor bolts.


My wife even commented on the difference.
Between these and the rubber couplings on the pipe the motor is fully isolated now and it is significatly better.
You can barley feel vibration at all when touching the tub deck.
Before it was like the tub vibrated with the motor like a big speaker and sound permeated throughout the room. Now the sound is clearly coming from the corner where the motor is.
The noise level is significantly less also and I have not yet closed in the tub skirting.

Well worth the $5 at Fastenal!

I will use Quiet Brace to add an additional layer between the motor and the tub surround. I will also box in the motor with it to keep insulation away and help funnel the sound down through the hole going into the basement.
It isn't OC703, but at $7 a 4x8 sheet it is hard to beat.


shaun.ivy@adtran's Avatar shaun.ivy@adtran 08:34 AM 09-26-2012
A little progress this week. This would be so much easier if I didn't have to work everyday.


And you thought I was kidding about the size of the room wink.gif


youthman's Avatar youthman 09:03 PM 09-26-2012
Man, the room is turning out great Shaun. Love the progress. Wish I had the knowledge of how to do the work that you know how to do. It's going to be an awesome upgrade to your bathroom, total makeover. Best of all...your wife is going to love it and all this work will more than pay off. smile.gif
shaun.ivy@adtran's Avatar shaun.ivy@adtran 07:54 AM 10-01-2012
She has already started using the room and is loving it. I am sure she will enjoy it more once it has a toilet. smile.gif
I heard loud music coming from the back of the house this morning.....She is getting ready for the day and seems to really like the Bluetooth bathroom sound system.
The pure heat circulation heater was a great addition to the tub. It really does a great job of keeping the water hot or even reheating it if you let it get a little to cool. Doubt it would heat up a full cold tub in any reasonable amount of time, but that isn't what it was made for.
I put a switch on the wall to turn off the heater because sometimes it can get to hot. Since the heater is automatic the switch just changes it from Auto to off. No worries about it being left on.
BoblK's Avatar BoblK 08:23 PM 10-04-2012
Do you have a water softener? That would help a lot with the calcium/lime issues.

Bob
Satori84's Avatar Satori84 09:31 AM 10-05-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by shaun.ivy@adtran View Post

I can't seem to find anything on this:
Should I enclose the back of the Klipsch R-2800-CSM Ceiling speaker?
http://www.klipsch.com/r-2800-csm-in-ceiling-speaker
It did say it was an infinite baffle design which makes me think no... but if so how do I keep insulation from piling on top of it.
My first thought was to build a box behind it, but I don't want to mess up the sound.

Infinte baffle usually just means no back pressure or enclosure to speak of. Here's what we did in our dining room ceiling speaker install:

Carefully push most of the blown-in insulation out of the way before you cut the ceiling drywall (you don't want a shower of that stuff coming doen on you!)

After the hole is cut and the speaker mounted and wired, put 2 pieces of rigid styrofoam between the joists either side of the speaker, making a rectangular baffle with an open top. Foam pieces should be same height as joist, friction fit is fine. Distance away is not critical but say at least 1/2 the diameter of the speaker...

Staple a piece of landscape fabric, grill cloth, any dense weave but porous fabric over the top of the box you've created. That will help keep dust and insulation out of the speaker but not restrict the back pressure from it.

Reheap the loose insulation up and over your new "infinite baffle" box.

Extra credit: put a piece of unfaced fiberglass insulation, maybe 3 feet long, up and over the baffle first, to better keep dust etc out of the speaker, then replace the loose insulation over that.

Hope that gives you some ideas!
shaun.ivy@adtran's Avatar shaun.ivy@adtran 08:52 PM 10-05-2012
Thanks Satori84.
I like the cloth idea. I will do that when I go back up to fix the insulation.
As few a trips as possible the better.

Boblk, unfortunately a water softener isn't in the budget. Whole house systems are pretty expensive from what I hear.
shaun.ivy@adtran's Avatar shaun.ivy@adtran 08:06 AM 10-10-2012
I insulated the pipes and used fiberglass insulation around as much of the tub as was accessible.
Quite Brace was easy to cut and fill the holes in the frame as extra noise barrier. Will it make any difference? Who knows....



The tile is finally gouted!
I will be using color matched sanded silicon to fill in the corners

Access hole. The tile will be held by magnets.






Motor Access panel: The last tile and a half section is removable and held by magnets. Suction cup handle works good to pull it off.
The vanity will cover it so you won't see it, but it also means the vanity has to come out to access the motor.
At least I won't have to bust tile if I need in there.






youthman's Avatar youthman 09:21 AM 10-10-2012
Looks great bro. Now get that TV Mounted pronto! Good idea making the removable tiles with magnets. Pretty slick.
NickTheGreat's Avatar NickTheGreat 10:38 AM 10-10-2012
I also like the removable tile magnetic idea. cool.gif
shaun.ivy@adtran's Avatar shaun.ivy@adtran 12:32 PM 10-10-2012
Thanks guys.
I am using cabinet magnet latches with the flat metal plate epoxied to the back of the tile.
I will grab some pics and post them when I finish them.
shaun.ivy@adtran's Avatar shaun.ivy@adtran 01:07 PM 10-10-2012
I want to get the TV for sure. For some reason the toilet seems to be more of a priority to my wife.
I am very close to mounting the TV and with half of Football season left. ;-)
rschuler313's Avatar rschuler313 01:53 PM 12-07-2012
Great work! Your craftsmanship and attention to detail is impressive.
shaun.ivy@adtran's Avatar shaun.ivy@adtran 09:56 AM 12-31-2012


View from sitting in the Jacuzzi.



I got the TV in not long after my last post, I just have not gotten around to posting anything.
It is alot harder to get motivated to work on something if you are already using it.

FYI: You have never really watched football until you have watched it in a Jacuzzi with a Hottie by your side.
It has become our 4th quarter tradition. Any late games we watch get moved to the tub for the 4th quarter.
Great way to end the evening!
shaun.ivy@adtran's Avatar shaun.ivy@adtran 10:06 AM 12-31-2012
Finally got the shower doors up!
Yes, it will be open in the middle and I realize there will be some spray coming out.
The doors are almost 5ft off the back wall and will keep the toilet and sink area dry.


They lay against the wall perfectly. The door on the left is never opened except to reach the drain leaver.
When in the tub the right shower door is completely out of the way.


The shower heads look low since the tile goes to the ceiling. The shower arm is mounted 80 inches off the floor so they are not low at all.


youthman's Avatar youthman 07:46 PM 01-03-2013
Man, what a sweet transformation of your bathroom bro. Definitely quite the handiman. Can't wait to see it in person during our next visit.
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