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post #61 of 76 Old 03-06-2013, 08:31 AM
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Your best bang for the buck is going to be mass. Double up on the drywall.
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post #62 of 76 Old 03-06-2013, 10:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Your best bang for the buck is going to be mass. Double up on the drywall.

How about in the soffit around the ductwork? Insulation, mlv, foam board, nothing? I'm just worried about the sound really traveling out the registers
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post #63 of 76 Old 03-06-2013, 10:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mn_hokie View Post

Your best bang for the buck is going to be mass. Double up on the drywall.

How about in the soffit around the ductwork? Insulation, mlv, foam board, nothing? I'm just worried about the sound really traveling out the registers
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post #64 of 76 Old 03-06-2013, 10:10 AM
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Insulation won't trap sound, and yes, sound will escape through the HVAC system. While sound will still escape the room (think of a fish tank with a pinhole in it - water will eventually empty out the tank through the hole), double drywalling everything (I did my ceiling and soffits as well) will minimize this a ton for a fraction of the cost.
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post #65 of 76 Old 03-06-2013, 03:38 PM
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So doubling up on drywall is more efficient than resilient channel and one sheet of drywall?
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post #66 of 76 Old 03-06-2013, 03:54 PM
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I wouldn't say more efficient. I was referring to bang for the buck
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post #67 of 76 Old 03-06-2013, 04:12 PM
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Subscribed and following along and enjoying the build here and learning a lot! The layout is similar to mine and a lot of your inquiries as well JReuter! Which brings me to your current concern soundproofing! I share the same end result and wondered additionally 2 things, the preferred thickness of drywall for doubling and if on the bottom layer you seal the seams as you would the top or surface layer? Thanks and great work and info so far! JIM
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post #68 of 76 Old 03-06-2013, 05:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Hokie, so do you think you I should even bother with the fiberglass if I double the rock, or will it be a waste of $400 or whatever it will cost me?

Jmeans, glad to hear I'm not the only one struggling around here. How's your build going? Have any good ideas or tips from your build? Love to see some pics if you have them.
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post #69 of 76 Old 03-07-2013, 07:51 AM
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I still insulated all of my walls. It helped a ton with the comfort level.
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post #70 of 76 Old 03-07-2013, 12:02 PM
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Look at the prices you pay for these materials to see how to soundproof on a budget. For my basement....

I bought regular R19 unfaced rolls. It was 20 cents a square foot retail (at the time there was a rebate plus this can be written off in your taxes... possibly... I'm no tax expert). It's impossible to screw up the install. Definitely do this no matter what other solution you choose. From there:

The resilient channel I installed was 4 dollars for a 12 foot length. At 16" OC that was about 30 cents a square foot. I lost 1/2" of ceiling height. I chose this route.

Using 5/8" drywall instead of 1/2" is less than 10 cents extra a square foot, but I did the ceiling myself and I couldn't handle the weight. I do think this is a good idea, just wasn't for me.

Double 1/2 drywall as opposed to single only adds about 16 cents on, but the added labor of sealing all the extra seams is huge. I couldn't bring myself to do the extra labor.

Green glue is very expensive per square foot, as is hat channel with isolation clips. The standard two tube rate plus a second layer is about a buck a square foot. Maybe worth it to you maybe not. Dealbreaker for me was labor.

My desire wasn't to have a soundproof room, only to be able to watch movies at normal volume when everyone else is asleep, and so my kids could watch movies loud downstairs without taking over the house. Basically I wanted the level of soundproofing an apartment building would have, and so the channel and insulation did that because that's what it's commonly used for. I could always add a second layer down the road (but I won't).
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post #71 of 76 Old 03-08-2013, 11:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Anyone have any experience with the recycled denim insulation batts. Looks kind of like the Roxul. Menards has R19 for 39.99 compared to the fiberglass at 12.77 a roll.

On the denim it says "superior acoustical absorption". Just a marketing scheme or worth it?
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post #72 of 76 Old 03-10-2013, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
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Jmeans, glad to hear I'm not the only one struggling around here. How's your build going? Have any good ideas or tips from your build? Love to see some pics if you have them.
Yes been waiting close to 8 years to begin in our new home (lots of priority and a 5 year old) came first but finally almost have HVAC, WaterTank, etc. moved to begin studding! That being said have about a 1000 square feet to work with but can't decide on a layout and design - many options... once i have some scenarios planned i will post for feedback. I'm really having a hard time deciding what i want, especially after seeing the amazing builds on AVS over the years, it can be as overwhelming as it is exciting, but certainly looking forward to beginning soon! JIM
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post #73 of 76 Old 03-17-2013, 03:02 PM - Thread Starter
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So, I finally got all my speaker wire and data cables. I need a little more advice for my speaker wire locations.


Where should I run the wire for my front left and Center speakers? How far on each side of the tv should they be? It's about 15' across from the wall to the header where the soffit will be. The tv will be centered on between the two.
I don't have my system yet but more than likely going to get the Andrew jones pioneer set to start with that has 2 towers. But if I don't or change in the future and my setup has satellites I'm not sure on where to place them? Any suggestions?


For my rear speakers, the back left will have to be placed on the soffit. I know it's higher than I would ideally like it but there's no other option. Also, right below it will be my bar. There will be about 15' behind the couch where the pool table will be. Should I still put them slightly behind the couch and up that high (about7'). They will be directly above my bar, will that be weird? The only other option u can think of would be in ceiling speakers. What would you do?


If I do put use satellites for the rears, the right one that will be hung from the soffit will be hung on this. How should I run that speaker wire? Should I drill through that header? It's so close to the ductwork I won't have much room to work with between the two, not to mention it will be tough to drill through anyways. Or should I just put my banana plug wall plate on the ceiling above where I'm going to have it? I want it to look as clean as possible.
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post #74 of 76 Old 03-20-2013, 05:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Bump?
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post #75 of 76 Old 03-20-2013, 10:13 AM
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I would put the fronts as wide as you can symmetrical with the TV. The Andrew Jones are a solid choice. I'd put the rears up high and also as wide as is reasonable. I wouldn't worry much about them being way above ear level. Try to have the listening positions within 30 degrees of the speaker pointing directly at them... as in... buy articulating mounts or do your best to "aim" the speakers at the listeners and the difference will be minimal. Also, surrounds should not be wider than the fronts.

I wouldn't drill through the header, I'd just put the plate on the ceiling. A white plate blends right into the ceiling and it could always be covered by a blanking plate later on anyway. I assume this is a 7.1 system and if that's the case the rears position really isn't that important. If this is a 5.1 system I would move the speakers to the side walls closer to the couch, ideally 110 degrees (slightly behind the couch).
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post #76 of 76 Old 03-20-2013, 10:26 AM - Thread Starter
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It is going to start as a 5.1 but im wiring for a 7.1 in the future. Gotta do some more saving. So for the rears on the 5.1, instead of putting them on the walls spread 15' apart, you think I should just hang them from the ceiling a little closer to the couch?

Anyone hear done this? Does it look tacky? Would I be better off just gettting in-ceiling speakers instead of satellites hanging?
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