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post #1 of 24 Old 05-31-2013, 02:56 PM - Thread Starter
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So i've pretty much done the running of most of the electrical. Only thing left was these

1) Bathroom, includes switched circuit for bath light and one for bath vent fan. and GFI outlet.

2) 1 smoke/co2 detector wired into to current circuit (cust. supplied)

3) Installation or 6 six inch canned lights on 3 way switch.(cust. supplied)
(Use entry door switch + landing switch)

4) Installation of 6 six inch canned lights on existing switch. (cust. supplied)
(Use landing switch)

5) Addition of 2 outlets for TV and Projector

6) Run home runs of 4 existing circuits to panel.

7) stripping of all electrical boxes to be drywall ready.


I had an electrician quote me $500, to do all that excluding cans/smoke detector.

What do you guys think?

this is in Atlanta, GA
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post #2 of 24 Old 05-31-2013, 09:16 PM
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Electrical work is too complicated for anyone to accurately assess if this is a fair price in this forum . How far are all the wire runs and what gauge wire ? Are the walls and ceilings open everywhere he will need access to ? What materials will be needed to complete the installation beyond the devices and wire ? Will he have to drill dozens of holes to route the wire ? Is there attic access , and if so is it a PITA to move around up there? Crawling around under the house? Even if you gave me all the above details I would not bid the work by proxy , you might think something should be simple and maybe take an hour , but for me to provide a quality installation that is safe and up to code would take 4 or 5 hours . Any company or person who would give a quote over the phone , or in a forum should be looked upon with suspicion .
You said you did everything else , if your work passed inspection then you have a fair base to determine his bid . Calc the materials figure out how much time it would take you , then try to honestly figure out how much faster he will be . Say the material cost you come up with is $200 and it looks like it'll take him 12 hours . Do you feel it's fair for a professional to make $25/hr. ? How much is you not having to do it worth to you ?
Food for thought , what does your Dr. or lawyer charge an hour ? Electrical apprenticeships can be 5 years , and if he screws up EVERYTHING you have and love can be destroyed . Good luck with your project.

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post #3 of 24 Old 05-31-2013, 11:46 PM - Thread Starter
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That's a fair statement, I saw. Coupons online for $399 for just lights, so am thinking he's on the too good to be true area.
So thought hearing a couple of estimates here would give me a better gauge.

Just some details all wall ceiling exposed, getting ready for Sheetrock..
Bath is about 10' from breaker..

I ran 12/2 wire throughout...so would expect similar...

Holes galore joist run perpendicular to majority of space..

What got was he said $300 in materials..
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post #4 of 24 Old 06-01-2013, 03:57 AM
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So, the cost would be $800 total? That's cheap. I was doing most of the electrical work myself for a redo of a family room, and I had an electrician do what I considered to be a paltry amount of work and they charged me $2,000. I seem to remember it was running a box for cable, network, phone (wires already run to attic) to a room, install a circuit with gfci outlets outside, install a 240 box in garage and a few other minor things.

Bob
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post #5 of 24 Old 06-01-2013, 06:58 AM
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I should note that I was running out of time (before my second daughter was due to be born) and just had to get everything done. The room was completed about a week before she was born. So, that's why I had to have the electricians do some work.

This room also has my breaker panel, so that's why this work had to get done before the room was finished.

Bob
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post #6 of 24 Old 06-01-2013, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kamleshg View Post

That's a fair statement, I saw. Coupons online for $399 for just lights, so am thinking he's on the too good to be true area.
So thought hearing a couple of estimates here would give me a better gauge.

Just some details all wall ceiling exposed, getting ready for Sheetrock..
Bath is about 10' from breaker..

I ran 12/2 wire throughout...so would expect similar...

Holes galore joist run perpendicular to majority of space..

What got was he said $300 in materials..

So you are getting the labor for $200? Or is the $500 labor only and material is extra. If he's only charging $200 for all the labor either electricians in your area charge substantially less than any place I've worked, or something is going on. There are people out here that advertise recessed lights installed for $30/fixture. I've been called out behind three different installers. In all three cases the homeowners were hit with "extras" AFTER the work was started, holes cut for lights, switches removed, etc. One lady wanted 2 cans above her kitchen sink, the $60 advertised, and quoted price turned into $500 for extras and the" difficulty" of the installation. The only difficulty for the job was the guy was a fraud, I dream of installations that are as simple as hers, great attic access and tied to the existing kitchen light switch. He mangled everything so bad I had to replace everything except the trim and I charged her $180.
See if you can get a friend or family member to refer an electrician they've used and trust and call him out for a bid then compare. Referrals from happy customers are my biggest source of work, and unfortunately too much of that work is redoing shoddy installations by "electricians" who are not qualified to plug in a toaster.
I'd offer more direct help, but I'm in California. If you want to pay for my flight I'd be happy to bid your project...wink.gif

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post #7 of 24 Old 06-01-2013, 09:37 AM - Thread Starter
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No it's $500 labor and material, I was shocked at price too so I emailed the list I put in OP
And he confirmed that was it price and all.
What else can I do to protect myself from price changing?
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post #8 of 24 Old 06-01-2013, 09:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Well all material except for lights and smoke alarm.
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post #9 of 24 Old 06-01-2013, 11:20 AM
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It's hard in this situation to demand a binding contract for the work at this price , but you can try to ask for it . I would recommend telling him you've had problems with extras before and thats why you are asking for it , not because you don't trust him . Understand that there MIGHT be an unforeseen problem that comes to light once he starts the work . Be prepared for 10-15% above quote just to be safe. Existing work tie-in would be the most likely cause of this , so tell him you are on a very tight budget and you need to know about any additional issues before work to correct them starts . If hes good , and a respectable tradesman he'll check the existing work first , in a way that the initial walk-through wouldn't cover to verify its all up to standard . Then he'll be able to tell you what if any extras there will be . You can then decide if you want him to continue , or cancel his services without feeling obligated because he hasn't done the bulk of the project . Pay him for the hour or so it took him to find the problem and part company . I don't charge in this situation , I give a written explanation of the deficiency and recommend they only contact licensed electricians for second opinions .
You could have found a hidden gem with this guy , he could be great and very reasonable . I'll admit I'm really jaded these days with the quality of work and ethics of many people passing themselves off as tradesmen , but there are still plenty of great folks out there doing spectacular work.

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post #10 of 24 Old 06-01-2013, 12:22 PM
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The electrician is going to install 12 recessed lights for $500? And do other work? That seems quite reasonable to me.

When I redid my family room, I installed 12 six-inch recessed lights and 6 additional (four-inch) lights. Installation of the 12 alone took a while (I'm not an electrician but have an electrical engineering degree and two copies of the NEC, and got everything inspected). Then again, I used a laser to ensure that the lights were perfectly aligned. There's still a lot of work involved: You have to install all the fixtures, then drill all the studs/joists/top plates, pull wire (which I think sucks and is very time consuming), tack up all wires properly, connect everything, and test it. I'm sure an electrician is faster than I am, but there's only so fast you can be for a lot of this stuff.

I assume, though, that he's not pulling a permit or getting it inspected (since that would add to the cost).

Bob
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post #11 of 24 Old 06-02-2013, 07:51 AM
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It appears to be a fair price for materials and labor. I am also assuming that he came out to the house before you were given the quote. About the best way to protect yourself from price changing is to either ask him about that practice, ask for references, or seek referrals.
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post #12 of 24 Old 06-02-2013, 06:52 PM
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Not knowing what the going rate for electricians is in your area , although all major metro areas I've been to tend to have pretty similar rates , this is a "controlled" LOL . This is beyond a fair price for the OP this is a steal . I doubt that Atlanta electricians routinely charge 1/8 - 1/2 of what rates are here (Los Angeles) . Again , without bidding the job , I would charge more than $200 in labor just to mount your cans . (feel free to snicker at the wording , I did as soon as I typed them) . My imagination might be making the project bigger/more difficult than it actually is of course , but if this guy gets you wired up all safe and sound at his quoted price then I think you really scored. And I will never consider the ATL for a move .

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post #13 of 24 Old 06-04-2013, 04:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Well lets hope he does it properly and on budget.

He starts today. Will keep ya'll posted.
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post #14 of 24 Old 06-04-2013, 09:29 AM
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Best of luck to you , I hope everything goes smoothly too. Keep us posted.

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post #15 of 24 Old 06-05-2013, 04:56 AM - Thread Starter
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So one day down, and all cans and outlets wired. Coming back today to do switches and wire up cans.

Man my floor joists were so randomly spaced it effed' up my spacing,
So i've got them 3' from walls, and 8' between all of them but last one is 10' apart.
and it happens to be where my projector was gonna go

So now my project is barely 12' from wall, so probably 11' from screen to lens. Hows that gonna work out?
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post #16 of 24 Old 06-05-2013, 05:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kamleshg View Post

So one day down, and all cans and outlets wired. Coming back today to do switches and wire up cans.

Man my floor joists were so randomly spaced it effed' up my spacing,
So i've got them 3' from walls, and 8' between all of them but last one is 10' apart.
and it happens to be where my projector was gonna go

So now my project is barely 12' from wall, so probably 11' from screen to lens. Hows that gonna work out?

It all depends on the lens of the projectror and the size screen you are looking for. It will certainly make thing more difficult... you do realize you do not have to mount the projector to the joist...

Doug

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post #17 of 24 Old 06-05-2013, 05:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Right, but the only joist where the can would fit, was where the projector was supposed togo.
So no i gotta put it behind or in front of the canned light.

Figured in front would be better.
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post #18 of 24 Old 06-05-2013, 07:12 AM
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I love when the framing dimensions are "liberal", especially when it affects other installations. Mount a sheet of "5/8" plywood on your ceiling in the area your PJ will go and you can mount to that, you can cut your can light hole in the plywood if it has to be close. Use the projector calculator on projector central.com or the manufacturers website to find what placement options you have. Glad to hear things are moving so well.

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post #19 of 24 Old 06-05-2013, 07:14 AM
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Do you have your projector picked out? 12' throw is fairly short, and I'd be concerned... If "behind" the can puts it at 14-16', you'd be better off putting the PJ there.


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post #20 of 24 Old 06-05-2013, 09:31 AM - Thread Starter
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I was afraid you were going to say that, but my locations are limited by the joist spacing allowing the can or 2-gang plate to fit as well.

i'll see what spacing i could get behind can....
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post #21 of 24 Old 06-05-2013, 05:08 PM
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You should have some placement flexibility for the power and data for your PJ, unless you have to have them right above the PJ for visual, or a.d.d. reasons. For example, figure out PJ location, then put the 2 gang behind that location, or even off to the side, some creative cable management and your set. Unless you could delete that light without screwing up your room.

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post #22 of 24 Old 06-07-2013, 11:22 AM - Thread Starter
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So i found a good spot putting it 15' from eventual screen location.

all said and done the electrician charged $600 for:

AT last min he was like, the lights wont work you know.
I was like WTF i need lighing to finish rest, he was lik $60 extra + i supply switches.

but at end of day he provided 1 canned light over tub, and extra light in a storage room, and 6 cat5e cables.
And rewired all the existing switches for better flow.

So im happy, nice and bright in there now...

Thanks for help guys.
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post #23 of 24 Old 06-07-2013, 01:56 PM
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Sounds like you got a great deal, then! And 15' is a much more comfortable PJ location... Shouldn't have any problem there...


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post #24 of 24 Old 06-07-2013, 03:34 PM
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Great to hear, good luck on the rest of your project, would be nice to see a build thread and lots of pictures.

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