Schlemtheater II - Attack of the ArchBar - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 40 Old 07-17-2013, 05:48 PM - Thread Starter
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A long time ago...in a basement about 32 miles away...

Schlemtheater One was born:




The equipment consisted of my Hitachi 53" rear projection HDTV which caused me a fair amount of pain with convergence boards going bad, but when that puppy was working, it was stunning...



I had a Toshiba progressive scan DVD player, a gem of a unit for its time. I bought Bowers & Wilkins 602.5 Series 3 main towers, and the LCR60 center speaker. I had Polk dipoles for the surrounds, and an Infinity IL100 10" powered subwoofer, all driven by my Onkyo TX-DS595 5.1 surround receiver...

Life was pretty grand, but the theater was not perfect by any means. Since it was my first major construction project (I did everything but wiring, drywall finishing, and some crown moulding, and I had a lot of help from my Dad) it actually turned out pretty nicely, but I secretly wanted something more...

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post #2 of 40 Old 07-17-2013, 05:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Schlemtheater One was completed in 2002 and we got to enjoy it for about 3 1/2 years, when...WE DECIDED TO MOVE!?!

It was October 2005, and I had some work buddies over to watch the final movie, the horribly disappointing Star Wars Episode III - Revenge of the Sith. After which we all hauled the Hitachi up the basement stairs nearly killing three of us, and then I drove it on a rental truck over to our rental house that we had for 6 months while our new house was being built.

We moved into the new house in early 2006, which came with a much larger basement...

Unfortunately, the budget never allowed us to do anything with that larger basement....

For seven eight long years, I have been without surround sound of any kind in my house...

But a couple of sleepovers with Dear Son's friends that caused my wife and I to be banished to our bedroom caused some discussions...

Those discussions turned into plans...

The budget was willed into being...and has since been blown to smithereens...

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post #3 of 40 Old 07-17-2013, 05:48 PM - Thread Starter
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A short time ago...in a basement merely feet away...

Schlemtheater II was born!

Construction started over Christmas break 2012.


CURRENT PHASE: DECORATING, ACOUSTIC PANEL INSTALLATION, SCREENWALL CABINETRY PLANNING, AUDIO TESTING.

CURRENT PHOTOS:






Before I get too carried away, thanks go out to those who have helped or inspired me along the way:

Danielle M. our ex-neighbor and interior designer
Rick G. and Josh H. of a local Home Theater contractor
John M. of another local Home Theater contractor
Brad E. of another local Home Theater contractor
Todd W. of another local Home Theater contractor
BIGmouthinDC
Mcascio - Cinemar
NYGIANTSFAN23
Spaceman
Jamis
Jautor
Bill S. of a local drywall contractor
Jason H. of a local plumbing contractor
George W. of a local cabinetry contractor
Paul F. and Barry M. for all your advice and encouragement!
My Dad - we may never insulate anything ever again!
My Wife Amy - thanks for putting up with me on this journey!



So for eight years I have walked around this basement tossing around ideas and trying to picture what it might look like with a home theater and a bar in it. I knew I wanted a riser for tiered seating and I knew I wanted more seating because that was always a problem with Schlemtheater One. I knew I wanted total control over lighting, and I wanted furnace noise to be at an absolute minimum. I knew that I wanted a separate storage room, and I wanted to change the opening at the bottom of the basement stairs to open up more toward the finished side.

With that said, let's get on to some pictures:
Boomassiv likes this.

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post #4 of 40 Old 07-17-2013, 05:48 PM - Thread Starter
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FRAMING


This is where the basement stairs come down, viewed from what will be the finished side. I want to open up that wall where the switch is, and instead close off the other side and install a door into the storage area beyond:



Another view down the stairs. Basically what is happening on the right is what I want on the left and vice-versa with the cutout going all the way down to the stairs. (You'll see in later pictures that I made this happen).



Ah, the pole...
That pole pretty much dictated the layout of the whole area. The screen wall is to the right, and the bar will come off of that bumpout using the area from the short wall to the pole for a closet/pantry. If that pole would have been a foot or two to the left in this picture, I think I would have been happier with the seating distance, but more on that later. At this point, I had to begin removing all the pre-installed insulation and thermal vapor barrier:


The future screen wall. Note the white drain pipe running along the steel beam. Where it makes the turn along the screen wall it sticks out a few inches. I was too afraid to attempt to cut it and move it closer to the wall so I could encase it. My plumber also thought the risk was greater than the reward. Instead I framed a box around it. First compromise, but an acceptable one.


Another shot of the screen wall with that pesky support pipe and egress window. I'll have to tame the light coming through that sucker...


And so it begins...


A shot of the dreaded nailers, and the other pesky pipe:


One of my favorite things about this build: the 30+ foot 6" staggered-stud wall separating the theater area from the storage room and the noisy furnace. There's that pesky pipe causing problems again...


It is a beast of a wall, and it was really tough just to lift it up off the floor, much less slide it into position.

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post #5 of 40 Old 07-17-2013, 05:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Enough building...let's destroy something!




Storage room door is in, and stairwell modified:

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post #6 of 40 Old 07-17-2013, 07:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Soffit construction:




I used 2x4s, 2x2s, and awesome outdoor wood screws that I got at Lowe's. They are a little pricey, but go into the wood like butter. I pretty much quit using nails after I found those bad boys. Star-drive grip-rite tan colored outdoor rated wood screws.


These are the recessed lights I chose (thanks mscascio!) These were used in the Cinemar theater, probably my favorite build on these forums. Over the bar in the arch I went with some cheaper ones from Menards. They came with connectors for the wires, which was nice, but the bulb sockets were not attached, so that was not as nice. I prefer the ones from Juno if I had to do it all over again.


The screen wall. I'm planning on a 100" - 110" 16:9 screen due to the fact that my components will be going into a custom cabinet of some kind below the screen. Also, my first row of seats is going to be somewhere around 9 feet I think so I don't want those seats to be overwhelmed by the screen size. Yet, I want a big-screen feel to the room, especially since it will be viewable through the bar, and the wall will certainly allow a big screen length-wise. It's because of the seating distance and component cabinet that I think I have to stay in the 100-110" range. Feel free to post your opinions on this, because it has been a huge struggle for me. Screen and projector types are also a big struggle, but we'll discuss that later.


My solution to the pesky pipe. Looking back, I wish I would have made the box a little bigger so I could have stuffed more insulation in there, but it should be alright the way it is.


This is the only supply duct for the lower level. It will blow across the bar floor, and hopefully with carpet in the room it won't be too noisy. This was another compromise. I would have rather had it blow backward away from the theater area. Instead it is blowing sideways, but behind the theater. We'll see. I did the ductwork myself, after a HVAC contractor quoted me $382.


Let me tell you, it is scary cutting a hole in your own furnace! Yet...not so scary cutting holes in airplanes...wonder why that is???





This is the beginning of the closet/pantry next to the bar. I was going to hide my safe in there and have a secret panel to hide it, but the complexity drove me away. I'm sure the drywallers were thinking, "What the heck?"


This is the pocket door for the closet. That was no easy peach to frame, but I'm so glad that I did it. It saves a lot of space, and I've always wanted one in my house. Got the kit at Menards.




Here is the beginning of the bar where the arch will be over the sink. Deciding on the size of the side columns was one of the toughest things yet. How to make them big enough to hold the surround speakers and lines for water in and out of the sink, and yet small enough so as to not impede the view of the screen?

This is also the rear wall of the theater area, so I needed to maximize that space while allowing for two banks of cabinets inside the bar, which must align with the doorway for the closet. (Which was dictated by that pesky support pole. See how one thing affected many?) I squared the wall off of the side wall, but little did I know that would cause a problem later with the arch...



Now we're beginning to get a good idea of the bar, columns, and closet:


Got a mini-kreg jig at Rockler's to do these nifty things to the columns:



Here is where I am trying to mark the curve of the arch. I decided to make two half-arches, but since my span is 9 - 1/2 feet, the curve of the arch works out to this 10'+ arc radius. I started running out of room in the garage without pulling my car out, so In the end, I just sort of eyeballed it with all four pieces of the sides of the arch clamped together so I would only have to make one cut.




So I built these and then slid them in between the joists, which I thought was terribly smart at the time... BUT...the ol' joists ain't exactly square to my bar wall...I'll show the fix later.


Arch is up, and that PVC is just a standpipe to prevent the waste line from draining down there until I get the pump and check valve installed.




Next, I tried to put a soffit above the other side of the bar where the stools will be, but we felt like it was too heavy and it closed off the area too much. I ended up taking this down and using it as a 12" test riser on the floor. (Too high - definitely going with an 8" riser in accordance with my riser calculator results).



Bar wall with surround speaker boxes and test riser in front:

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post #7 of 40 Old 07-19-2013, 04:53 PM - Thread Starter
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ELECTRICAL

I decided to do all the electrical work myself, but I consulted with an electrician just to make sure. I also got a copy of the National Electric Code, and a Black&Decker book about Home Wiring. Being a licensed aircraft mechanic and an avionics specialist to boot, I felt that I could handle this part of the project, and it has been my favorite part of the build so far.

My main panel is out in my garage, so I decided to run a subpanel to the lower level. I ran 6 gauge wire and protected it with a 60A breaker at the main panel. Only copper bus for this guy:





Here are recessed lights in one of the soffits flanking the screen wall:


SCORE! I snagged a used Lutron Grafik-Eye GRX-3106 on ebay. (Got the remote new on ebay for about half price also!) This is one of the coolest parts of the lower level now, and I highly recommend installing some form of lighting control - it makes a difference in what is needed out of the screen and projector.



Second bar wall is up with wiring starting to go in:


More recessed lights in the common area next to the bottom of the stairs with insulation loaded in. Menards had some rebates earlier this year, so I bought as much insulation as I could afford at the time to save a little $$.


The panel is filling up:


ANOTHER SCORE! I got these babies off of ebay for $405, used but in pristine condition. They go for $650 at Best Buy. They will be my new rear channel speakers which will be hidden inside the bar columns. They should match my main speakers pretty closely. I wanted these over the 686s because I wanted the front-firing port so that the column enclosure wouldn't affect the sound as much.


The panel is done:


The Grafik Eye tests good!


LED rope lights check good! These will run behind crown moulding down either side of the theater up on the soffits. I got the Soft White 3/8" 120v LED rope light from OrangeTreeTrade.com.


BUT...

They don't dim all the way out....hmmm...that is a problem. I added them to another zone with recessed lights as a test, and then they did dim all the way out. I'm going to have to add more load somehow. I looked at adding a dummy load: LUT-LBX-WH, but I'm not crazy about having a big resistor in my wall doing nothing but getting hot. I am going to run a wire down to the riser and add another rope and two step lights which (hopefully) will be enough load to make everything dim all the way out.


Light testing:

I am using the same Ecosmart 4" LED dimmable bulbs from Home Depot that were used in the Cinemar build.

Next, I reconfigured and repositioned the front recessed lights toward the screen wall to be 3-across and a bit closer to the wall:



Projector mount version 1.0 with the heavy soffit in the background. Didn't like the look of the arch with the flat surface behind it.


So instead we found these pendant lights at a store for $182 each. We bought three of them on lightinguniverse.com for around $90 each. It pays to shop around!



Added an aux control for the Grafik Eye lighting panel closer to the corner where it will be dark for someone coming into the area. Got it on ebay also, but paid full price as far as I can tell. That was a WAF decision...



Puttied up the backs of the boxes on the staggered-stud wall to help with sound from the furnance room. Got these from ATS Acoustics. Pretty reasonable price compared to some other brands.






Decided to add side surround speakers for 7.1 sound. Then I realized I compromised my staggered-stud isolated wall. I built this box and sealed with Owens Corning Quiet Zone acoustic caulk. Speaker wire is 14 gauge from Monoprice.com. Brackets are Bowers & Wilkins that I got on ebay. (Probably going with in-walls from Monoprice though! MUCH cheaper, and glowing reviews!)





Here I decided to alter the projector mount. This is version 2.0. I recessed the mount box by 3" and lowered the bar arch by 2", giving me 11" total for the projector and mount which should work out just right (within a 1/2" at least).





HDTV Coax run tests good! This was a major undertaking as our cable splitter is located in a panel in our master bedroom closet on the second floor. I had to run the coax up into the attic, down to the garage attic, and down the wall into the basement, then across the basement to the screen wall. It's a sad little home theater right now, but better things are coming!



I had a thought toward the end of the wiring process - maybe it would be nice to have some auxiliary inputs for the projector? So I ran a VGA and HDMI to the side of the bar. This will allow a camera or laptop to be able to show images on the big screen. Might come in handy someday. I also ran a CAT5 from the equipment area to the projector, and two CAT5s from the first floor computer room. Those will be connected to a D-Link 5-port Gigabit switch for wired internet to the PS4 and Receiver. We'll see if I ever need internet to the projector, but at least I have a means of getting there if I need to.



Fire-stop caulked all of my vertical wiring penetrations:


Here are the pendant lights installed over the bar:


Here is the construction of the theater area cove LED lights. I used 120v soft white rope lighting from www.orangetreetrade.com. I painted both sides of the crown moulding to reflect more light. Then, I cut triangular spacer blocks at 38-degree angles for the 4 5/8" crown moulding to be attached to. The rope lighting was also attached to these. Sizing was very critical because it affected how the crown rested on it. Would have been easier to rip a 2x4, but with no table saw, I had to go this route:












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post #8 of 40 Old 07-19-2013, 05:20 PM - Thread Starter
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PLUMBING

So I hear most plumbers don't do electrical, and most electricians don't do plumbing...

Well this guy doesn't do plumbing...so I farmed this out to a brother-in-law of a friend...
These are the hot and cold water lines running into the column and out to the sink hook ups:



Here is the finished rough-in with the waste line running out the other column into the waste line above. I will have a pump installed to eject the sink drain liquid.


Here is the sink installed in the counter, and there is an ejector pump installed underneath. It works just fine, but the noise from the check valve is a little loud. A compromise I guess for having a sink in the middle of the room where there was no plumbing at all:


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post #9 of 40 Old 07-19-2013, 05:26 PM - Thread Starter
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FINISHES

Here are the cabinet color and drawer pulls we have chosen, going for a pub feel:


Went with this simulated weathered wood ceramic tile for the bar area:


Here is the bar backsplash and floor:














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post #10 of 40 Old 07-19-2013, 06:33 PM - Thread Starter
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INSULATION

And so the fuzzy stuff goes up. Got to re-use all the stuff I took down that came with the house originally.







Since the furnace room is being closed off, code dictates that breather vents be installed within 12" of the floor and ceiling for combustion air. Here is a shot of the opening for the floor vent. The other one is in the stairwell. I hoped that these locations would be fairly quiet for the theater around the corner. We'll see how they do once carpet is installed.


More shiny vapor barrier and my other in-wall side surround speaker mount:


On the staggered-stud wall, I put R-11 on one side and R-13 on the other. The R-13 was a tight fit, so I could have gotten away with R-11 on both sides, but I was trying to use up what I had already bought and gotten rebates for. Here is the R-11 up on the storage room side.






I heard drywallers like it when you staple the insulation to the insides of the joists:


Screen wall looking through the bar arch:


Looking down the middle of the bar into the closet:


This is the area next to the bottom of the stairs. My unfortunately placed water main shutoff is there to the right:






Hopefully the pipes in that soffit stay nice and quiet...


This is looking through the "entrance" to the theater, and yes all my recessed lights are rated "IC" for contact with insulation.


Pre-drywall eve shots of my clean lower level bar and theater:













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post #11 of 40 Old 07-19-2013, 06:34 PM - Thread Starter
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DRYWALL

I hung all the drywall in Schlemtheater One, and I learned something...that I never wanted to do drywall again! So I farmed this part out, and they loaded in and hung ALL OF IT in one day! Granted, it was an 11-hour day, but STILL! I could not have done in 3 months what they did in ONE DAY! Money well spent as far as I'm concerned!




Ummm...hey fellas...didn't you see how clean the floor was when you started???


Well...who better to jack up my stairwell loading in drywall than....drywall guys!


Starting to quiet that furnace down...




Great progress, but holy crap, look at my floor!















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post #12 of 40 Old 07-19-2013, 06:45 PM - Thread Starter
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RISER

Need help with this riser thing. I've read BIGmouthinDC's Riser 101, and I'm going to copy that design, but I'm struggling with how deep and how tall to make it. The online riser calculator has me at 8". So, does that mean I should use 2X8s for the perimeter, 2X6s for the supports, and two sheets of 5/8" OSB for the deck? Or two sheets of 3/4"?

Or...should I use 2X6s for the perimeter, 2X4s for the supports, and two sheets of 3/4" OSB for the deck?

The insides will be stuffed with R-30, and there will be two to four power outlets for the future motorized seats. There will also be 25 feet of LED rope light running around the perimeter of the deck.

So I have 12'6" between the ends of the two columns. I plan on making the support 12' long, and the decking will overhang each side by 3" to allow room for the LED rope, and bringing me to my total width of 12'6". That part is pretty straightforward.

The depth of the riser however, affects the location of the first row of seats. Right now I believe the first row will be at about 10' from the screen. Big says nothing less than 6'6" on a riser, but I had another contractor visit my basement and he said I could get away with 6'. I'm thinking of going with 6' or 6'1" on the support, and then the decking would be at 6'3" or 6'4". I think that might be the best compromise between allowing foot room for the riser people while allowing the front row to be as far back as possible. That may put the front row at 10'4" or so.

UPDATE:
Here is the riser constructed. It is 12 feet by 6 foot 3 inches, by 8 inches. This height was a compromise between code (Would have to add a step if it was 8.25") and trying not to block the view from the bar. These dimensions made for a pretty simple build:

The outlets on the front and top back of the deck will be for powered motorized seating:




Added angle brackets to secure it to the floor. Not sure if this was necessary, but I don't want the thing sliding around. The side outlet is for the LED lighting under the deck.






(Forgot to take a picture with the rope light installed - that'll have to wait for another update!)

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post #13 of 40 Old 07-19-2013, 06:46 PM - Thread Starter
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PAINT & TRIM

Yesterday we bought 12 gallons of paint, and 6 gallons of primer...luckily Sherwin Williams is having a 40% off sale this weekend!

UPDATE
Well, after going through a couple of blues and then just sticking with the browns, I think we're up to about 26 gallons of paint...

The colors are:

Benjamin Moore Van Buren Brown (Theater ceiling)


BM Davenport Tan (Theater walls, and one wall by stairs)


BM Lenox Tan (All other walls)


UPDATE:
This color has been removed - it ended up being way too teal/green looking.
Sherwin Williams Riverway (Bar arch and all soffits)








Proposed 110" screen size masked out, viewed through the bar


Water shutoff access in ceiling


Pocket door to bar pantry

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post #14 of 40 Old 07-19-2013, 06:47 PM - Thread Starter
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CABINETRY & STONE

Started off with tar paper below:


Then added 1/4" plywood to shim them up to what will be tile level. (Added wood taper shims also to final shim to level).


High counter side with microwave in middle, and mini-fridge spaces on each side


Mocked up with one fridge and counter laying on top. Counters are Formica Antique Mascarello HD laminate, but they look just like granite!




Sink side with no hole cut yet


Upper counter installed



Final without hardware














I wish I would have known that I could have installed hardi-board instead of the drywall around the bar and columns. Would have saved some time and maybe even a little money if I'd have installed that up front. But, since the drywall was up, finished and most importantly, paid for, I decided to go old-school and install the tar paper moisture barrier and metal lath:








We selected the Ledgestone in Chardonnay from Stone Craft:




This stuff was not real easy to work with, especially going around corners and having to double it up for strength at the corners:


Scratch coat going up:






Here's what 1000lb of stone carried down by myself looks like (edited out my lifeless body on the floor):


Started laying out on the floor, which worked well when I didn't screw it up and put something up out of order:










Not pretty right now...in fact it looks like a disaster area. Should be pretty later on...


Tough to get the lighting just right with a phone camera








From the screen wall looking backward through the bar. I've still got to come up with a way to make the rear surround speaker grills removeable and nice-looking...




Front of bar completed with LED light box installed:





Column stone completed:






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post #15 of 40 Old 07-19-2013, 06:48 PM - Thread Starter
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FLOORING
















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post #16 of 40 Old 07-19-2013, 06:48 PM - Thread Starter
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AUDIO/VISUAL

I scored a nearly-new Integra DTR 30.4 receiver on eBay that I hope sounds better than my old Onkyo.
UPDATE: I scored again with a nearly new DTR 50.4, so I'm selling the 30.4 on ebay!

For the PJ, I'm leaning toward the Epson ProLite Cinema 6030ub.

Screen...not sure yet, but I have some quotes for Dragonfly, VuTec, and Screen Innovations. Any recommendations?

Blu-ray player - was going to be the PS4, but it doesn't seem very home theater friendly yet. I may stick with the PS3 to start.

One day when I didn't feel like putting up baseboard trim, the kids and I did a dry-run ops check of all the audio wiring, and ethernet.

Everything worked great!




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post #17 of 40 Old 07-19-2013, 06:50 PM - Thread Starter
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SEATING

Been shopping around a little since the riser needs to be able to hold whatever we end up going with.

Right now we're leaning toward two rows of 4 seats, curved, with loveseats in the middle. Power recline is a must, and we would like seatbacks that are removable, and toward the shorter side since they will be obstructing the view through the bar a bit.

Starting to narrow the choices down to Berkline, Lane, and Palliser. Need to find the right mix of color, price, size, price, and price.

Check out my build thread:
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post #18 of 40 Old 07-19-2013, 06:52 PM - Thread Starter
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FINAL DETAILS

Crown moulding complete!





Painting side surrounds to match wall:



Here are some photos of the woodwork on the bar:











Here you can see the mounts for the back surround speaker grilles. There are magnets in the top and bottom horizontal black boards, and there will be matching magnets in the speaker grille that should hold them in place.



I cut the curves for the arch by hand with a jigsaw and then sanded to match the contour - pretty tedious process:





Had to buy some flexible cove moulding for the curves of the arch. Once I got the hang of trying to cut a curved miter (by realizing that pretty close was good enough), things went much more smoothly.











A panoramic view of the bar:



Ready for carpet!



Back surround speaker grilles are in!





Had to do a few things to quiet down the mini-fridges in the bar:


I put these rubber/cork isolators under each of the feet:



The black plastic drip pan below was just touching the condenser, making a buzzing sound. Luckily it was slotted so I was able to adjust it.



Next, I put a ziptie on these two lines that were vibrating and humming:



Finally put up these acoustic panels on the back and sides of the fridge cubbies, slid everything back into place, and now it's hard to tell when the fridges are even running!



Went with a large microwave rather than a built-in look to save some $$:


Check out my build thread:
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Last edited by Schlemstar; 08-09-2014 at 03:01 PM.
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post #19 of 40 Old 07-28-2013, 10:26 AM
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I am not sure how I missed this thread....Wow, very nice transformation. I love the arch!

Where about in Indiana are you? I am in northwest Indiana.

Doug
Where there's a beer, there's a way.



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post #20 of 40 Old 07-28-2013, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by kezug View Post

I am not sure how I missed this thread....Wow, very nice transformation. I love the arch!

Where about in Indiana are you? I am in northwest Indiana.

Agree. Looks great so far.


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post #21 of 40 Old 07-28-2013, 04:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kezug View Post

I am not sure how I missed this thread....Wow, very nice transformation. I love the arch!

Where about in Indiana are you? I am in northwest Indiana.

Thanks! I am in the Indianapolis area now, although I grew up in the South Bend area...

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post #22 of 40 Old 07-28-2013, 04:20 PM
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On your seating/riser issue do you have a general screen size in mind? Also how close do you like to sit in a theater? I'm about 11' from a 100" 16x9 screen and could be closer/have a larger screen.


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post #23 of 40 Old 07-28-2013, 04:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SupaKats View Post

On your seating/riser issue do you have a general screen size in mind? Also how close do you like to sit in a theater? I'm about 11' from a 100" 16x9 screen and could be closer/have a larger screen.

Well, the front row will be at about 10', and I was leaning toward a 100" 16:9 screen. Now, I think I may go 106" or 110" but I'm confused about how the Panny 8000 can do some kind of "poor man's" widescreen. So I don't know if I should go that route, because I can probably put up a bigger screen if I go wider.

But, overall I don't want the front row to be overwhelmed by the screen size, yet if someone is sitting behind the bar I don't want the screen to look small either. So I need to find the size that strikes the right balance. I'm pretty sure that balance is 106" or 110" right now.

Riser construction is starting this week. The supports will be 12' by 6' and the deck will overhang 3" all the way around, so final dimensions are 12'6" by 6'3". There will be soft white LED rope lights underneath the deck overhang, and a LED light for each step that will be at the front corners. These will be on the same Grafik Eye zone as the rope lights up above that will be behind the crown moulding and hopefully they are all enough load to dim properly. (I'm going to test at least all the rope lights together this week. I don't have the step lights yet).

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post #24 of 40 Old 07-28-2013, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schlemstar View Post

Well, the front row will be at about 10', and I was leaning toward a 100" 16:9 screen. Now, I think I may go 106" or 110" but I'm confused about how the Panny 8000 can do some kind of "poor man's" widescreen. So I don't know if I should go that route, because I can probably put up a bigger screen if I go wider.

But, overall I don't want the front row to be overwhelmed by the screen size, yet if someone is sitting behind the bar I don't want the screen to look small either. So I need to find the size that strikes the right balance. I'm pretty sure that balance is 106" or 110" right now.

Riser construction is starting this week. The supports will be 12' by 6' and the deck will overhang 3" all the way around, so final dimensions are 12'6" by 6'3". There will be soft white LED rope lights underneath the deck overhang, and a LED light for each step that will be at the front corners. These will be on the same Grafik Eye zone as the rope lights up above that will be behind the crown moulding and hopefully they are all enough load to dim properly. (I'm going to test at least all the rope lights together this week. I don't have the step lights yet).

I think 106-110 sounds like a good size that won't overwhelm the front row or look to small from further back.

The Panasonic just has a motorized zoom(I don't have one but I believe this is basically how it works). You set up a 16x9 image so that it is centerd and touching the top and bottom of your scope screen and save that location to the memory. Then you use the zoom features to get a scope image so that the black bars are projected to the outside of the screen (sides should line up as black bars disappear) and save that image to a separate memory. The remote has a button(s) that you can then push to toggle between the two settings and the projector automatically zooms in and out depending on what you choose.


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post #25 of 40 Old 11-02-2013, 07:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Updated riser, paint and bar cabinetry photos today!

Check out my build thread:
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post #26 of 40 Old 01-06-2014, 01:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Updated several sections with new photos today!

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post #27 of 40 Old 03-26-2014, 08:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Just realized it's been awhile since I've updated. I took it pretty slow over the winter since that presented budget and time constraints, but I'm back at it again.

I had the bar sink drain pump and water filter installed. I'm happy to report that the pump works to drain the sink, but the check valve and pump cycling is pretty loud. Luckily I don't think it will be used enough to be a real problem, but it will make people stop in their tracks if they don't know what it is. I also installed all the cabinet hardware, which I really like.

I've got about 1/3 of the crown moulding up. The carpet has been ordered and it's being held until I'm ready to have it installed. The stone veneer on the bar and columns is going up - a very painstaking process that I've learned a lot about. Doing it myself is saving me $950, but it is taking more time than I thought it would. I'm hoping to finish the stone this weekend, and then concentrate on completing the crown moulding and trimming out the bar column tops and maybe the arch with stained maple to match the cabinets.

Shooting for carpet in May and completion in June...but we'll see what happens.

I'll get some new pictures posted as soon as I can!

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post #28 of 40 Old 04-06-2014, 05:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Updated today with new pictures! Added "Stone" to the cabinetry section. Stone is still in progress. It's taken me much longer than I thought it would. Probably going on about 5 weeks now.

Check out my build thread:
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post #29 of 40 Old 04-07-2014, 03:22 PM
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Looking good Subscribed
Am I missing something... I didn't see a floor plan?

One day I will start the new theater....... one day


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post #30 of 40 Old 04-09-2014, 08:49 AM - Thread Starter
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I don't have a "computerized" floor plan, so I haven't posted it. Maybe I can whip something up in Sketchup that I can post. Thanks for the observation!

A small update for today: I need to get another box of flat stones to finish the second column. It has become too difficult to try to pick the one perfect piece to fit properly, so another box will give me some more options and hopefully get me through to the finish.

In the meantime, I started building the light box for the LED rope for underneath the bar. I'll have to get some pictures up this weekend...

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